Rear AC Block Off Kit, Fits: 2000-2014 Suburban, Yukon XL, Tahoe, Escalade: amzn.to/3PJN3HG Just so I'm clear. This is a winter beater. The rear lines are complete garbage underneath the vehicle. That is why I never cap them off or cover them up. If somebody wants to go back they would have to replace the rear lines and evaporator so there is no sense in doing anything to prevent dirt from getting in the old ones. Just thought I'd clear that up 👍
@@johnnysechrist6313 ASE is a joke when it comes to most things, it shows you can pass the test ONLY, doesn't demonstrate that you can actually understand the systems and do the work. Also ASE doesn't have any say in AC work, That would be the EPA, and the tests for both certificates for AC work (608 for fixed installs and 609 for mobile AC) are a joke as well. Why? They are open book tests!
I was a tech for 40 years. I really like watching your videos you are spot on with your diagnosis & repairs. I always told my technicians 90% of the repair is diagnosis the rest to clean & repair you're a great technician. Keep up the great work
A huge THANK YOU on behalf of my father! His '02 Yukon has been without A/C all summer due to severe corrosion of the rear A/C lines, and now he'll be able to get the system up and running and recharged! You rock, Eric! :D
Hard to believe how many worry warts in here about the rear lines that aren't to be used again. I have a hard time readin the comments when most are just nit pickers. You all come in here to see an experienced mechanic do great work, and an awesome gift of gab I must say, and yet so many question the trivial things that would drive most to drink. I guess maybe it is just a way to feel included. Ok, done bitchin, feel much better... TGIF
First let me say Eric is awesome so don't get thinking I am some hater! I have an 05 Tahoe rear air. I used a block off until I had time to go to the salvage yard get a used/ good line. My experience with block off was now the orifice tube would have a high pitch fluid sound as the compressor started. Wife found it annoying!
Block off kits ??? Well, I've learned something new today !!! Will wonders never cease !!!!! You've been holding out on us Eric !!!!! This is a good thing to know !!!! I'll make a mental note of that for future use !!!!! Never a dull moment at SMA !!!!!!
Always enjoy watching AC work. Great job Eric! Rear AC lines in WNY can really give problems! Thanks for showing the rear-line block-off kit too. Have a great upcoming weekend everyone!
I have an 08 Tahoe. By the book, the repair is a body off job...But we found an aftermarket vendor that makes rubber lines that got us back up and going. Super happy we got it nice and cool in the back again!
I have an 05 Tahoe. Was able to go to the salvage yard pull a good used one off. Was able to get it in on my vehicle. I did have one of those nice compression fittings that I have seen Eric use To repair just in case I am to make it two pieces to get in.
My lines on my suburban had a hole in them I found a set of rubber lines online through auto cooling solutions as well that go from front to back. Was easy to install and had lifetime warranty, can't remember. 5 years later still no issues.
Did the same to my 99 suburban 2 years ago, I bought the kit and let my mechanic install and charge it for me. Still plan to repair the rear AC one day when I have money to spare for it
So I went to the local shop and asked about pulling a vacuum and they had me walk 3 times around the shop pulling a ShopVac by the cord. I didn't notice any leaks, and I thought it was a strange, but for $100 I guess they're the experts! Happy Friday (and early Saturday) everyone!
Where I worked we did A/C on company cars. We were sent to school to get certified on A/C service. We were taught if you had a system that had a leak and was without a charge even for a short time to change the receiver/ dryer because it was most likely contaminated.
Pretty cool option for those that are looking to maximize the life out of there vehicles reasonably and still have some functionality like AC that works. Another great video Eric
Every time I view your channel I learn tons. I'm retired so I'll probably never get to apply any of this knowledge. But thanks anyway for the many many hours of viewing. D Thurston
TH-cam. Gotta love it. You hover over the thumbnail for this video before playing it, and it scrolls subtitles of what is allegedly being said. "Welcome back to the self-made auction channel...". WTF? :-)
Anotehr simple and awesome video. This is what I consider the practical reality of owning cars in the rust belt. it's not so much always repairing everything as much as making it livable for the next couple of years until the salt gets the job finished.
we have fixed the rear a/c lines on a 2005 & 2007 as both were leaking above the rear wheel. We used brake lines to fix the leaking liquid line. We did the 2005 4 or 5 years ago and it's still going strong! (Sold the 07 so no idea)
I didn't know these were a thing. My 2014 Tahoe the rear a/c line has some tiny holes in it and the line it's self is about $1,800 and not including any labor. Awesome I can get some a/c back in my Tahoe.
Good video. The rear AC in our 2005 Yukon and now our 2011 Yukon work very well, Arizona. But the kids are grown up now and we rarely have rear passengers. Good to have the rear AC blower fan going however, so R134a becomes a gas and doesn't flood compressor as a liquid.
Used this kit from Auto Cooling Solutions a couple times before on our prior Tahoes - getting ready to do the same on our latest one - Thanks for the tip on the Big Blu leak detector!
I didn't put the kit on but I did put a new ac compressor with dry and hose along with a new expansion valve on myself then , took it to a machanic and had him pressurize it and add ac for me.
I used them for my 99 tahoe. Got the rear lines and evaporator. I was pretty proud of myself for actually accomplishing the job. Been working for a year now. The replacement lines are not rigid so installation is easier. Its nice to have rear air for the dogs.
Pretty clean vehicle for a winter beater in your area! Haha. Good solution for that issue if you really don’t need that rear A/C. Here in Texas, we’d fix that A/C. Much needed here.
I’m a auto technician I do this all the time that kit is like $7 Ac recharge with dye is like $120 so customers pay $127. Or The new lines with labor is like $600 with ac recharge $120. You choose $127 and nice cold ac or $720 and have cold ac.
Seems like the kit should have covers to cap off the rear lines as well to at least preserve what shape they are in now vs. let them get destroyed (unless they are all one piece to the rear). 36 is pretty cold for 134a systems, usually you are lucky to see 40. I've always liked the GM A/C designs vs. the others out there.
I’ll 2nd that motion should be caps to plug off the rear lines. Especially if the reason for using those fancy plugs is to be able to return the system to full capacity sometime in the future.
Lol. Your transitions to the comments are getting funnier. You kind of lagged a little like you weren't sure if you really wanted to say it that way but you did. I quietly chuckled.
Nice job! I'd be taking that gm dealer to court. There tech was just going to throw parts at the problem. The problem would have still been there. Again, Great Job.
honestly i don’t blame people for doing this i have a 2006 ford explore i just did the rear lines on and the amount of poo i had to remove to change them uhhhhh the only reason i did change them is that they were not that expensive and i had access to a lift but otherwise wow lots of work and i got lucky to have access as a friend of mine working at a shop that is crazy cool this never happens
I have a 2012 Caravan where the rear A/C went FUBAR so I made the mistake of taking it to my Dodge dealer. They told me what the problem was so I said block it off. "We can't do that." So $2300 later I was cool again. The rear A/C on Caravans seems to be a common problem and is why the dealer keeps new units on the shelf.
Very popular vehicle , I’ve done many,,, reality check,,, “all vehicles with aluminum rear lines exposed to salt & now Brine , leak ! Regardless of the Hood Emblem ! +/- 5 yrs. ( made in China )
You have to watch which cap goes in the high and low. On the low side the Schrader valve sits up higher (not all of these trucks/SUVs), and if you put a high pressure side cap on the low, it'll touch the Schrader valve and create a slow leak. Since the replacement caps all touch the low side Schrader, we have to leave it uncapped.
If you manage to put the caps on backwards you are defying physics. The ports are different sizes. Large is high pressure. Small low pressure. Schrader vale should never be proud of the service port if it is installed correctly.
Blast it with dry nitrogen and check for leaks. Only time that has ever let me down is with a compressor seal. And it naturally removes moisture so its a good test before the final vacuum.. And if ya want to go over the top you can get a hydrogen tracer in the bottle. But the hydrogen leak sensors are $$$$, However they really work.
Nice... Consider capping off unused lines If open to atmosphere the tear evap will a absorb water. All refrigerant oils absorb water. The evap coil has oil in and will collect water so going back will be moot GM trucks usually have AC that freeze you out..... Rear coil probably won't be missed too much.
Great info although it doesn’t seem feasible “going back” and fixing the rear lines with how much junk will get in them with them open in the engine bay. I recently rebuilt and flushed my friends 6.0 suburban and that was a nightmare to do those rear lines just because of how much flush you need to use. Blocking off the rear lines also would be much nicer for fixing the rear ac at a later date.
Yes, I think I would have put a small, thick plastic bag over each one, held in place with a cable tie, and then wrapped the whole thing with electrical tape. Bonus - Eric could then have used the gas sniffer.
@@lwilton See the pinned comment, if you wanted to go back you'd be replacing the rear lines and evap, but this thing is a 2005 vehicle in NY, probably due for the crusher in a few years.
Being as leaky as those rear lines where, to cause a large leak, junk can get into the system anyway. Best to just replace everything and start from fresh. The lines are already junk, and the evaporator isn't going to add much more work than replacing those lines anyway. Read the pinned comments, he said some of this.
That's a nice option if you dont care about the rear air. Couple questions, why not replace the orrifice tube or check it for debris? Since the rotted out rear lines were connected to the system then there is good chance that there is debris trapped in the orrifice tube right? Second question, how do you know how much oil to add to the charge? Presumably there is some unknown amount of oil stuck in the rear lines/txv/evaporator. Lastly, to anyone who might try to DIY this, remember to only add the refrigerant charge called out for a GMT800 without rear air, otherwise you'll be adding WAY too much. Might be confusing if you try to search for r134a charge amount using "caddillac" or "escalade" since I think every single trim had rear air.
First of all, it was just a leak. Second, the oil charge would still be correct. Third, why would you keep opening lines and runnin up the bill? 4th, seems like it worked out very well. Quit your belly achin.
@@danlemke6407 👍Agree ! Eric did what was wanted by the owner ! Done every day ! Oil good , if the customer don’t care about his rear lines,,,,why should we ? Orfice tube,,,in high side line,,,not serviceable, have to buy new line ! F, it the guy wants cold air ! Not a heart transplant or MRI on his beater !
A trick my Dad taught me many years ago for long vehicles like that SUV is if you crank the A/C on in the front and then crack the rear windows, it'll cool it down very nicely - even without a "dedicated" rear A/C system. Once the vehicle is cooled down, the front can maintain it without any problems. You don't really NEED the rear A/C at all.
@@joerivas9847 Actually, the trick he taught me was down in Florida - where you get the heat AND the humidity. (The humidity kills you quicker than the heat does.) He got the tip because he was an appliance service tech and they got some new vans. All the techs were complaining that the van A/C systems were garbage - so the manufacturer said, crank up the A/C and open the back doors for about 10 minutes. This allowed the HVAC system to "push" all the hot air out the back of the van and from then on it was icy cold.
I appreciate that you always tell viewers to do things the right way, even though many of your customers don't seem to believe in that approach. The most important part of owning a car in my experience has been finding a service shop that does a good job. Many people are scared off by high hourly charges, but a job done right is always the cheapest. I don't even change oil myself anymore, I want a good mechanic looking it over and telling me what is going to be needed next to keep it in good condition. I cringe at some of "pigs" you work on, but still give them good service. Well done!
I bought a block off kit, similar to this one, for my 2016 Caravan and installed it myself. I had a guy come and put in refrigerant, it held the charge, and blew iceicles for almost 3 weeks. Then yesterday, I go to turn on the van, and I smell smoke. Look outside, and there's smoke all around my vehicle (I hadn't left my driveway yet). So I turned off the van, got out, and heard loud hissing coming from the area where I installed the cap-off kit (partway down the passenger side, underneath). I am afraid to try to turn on the AC at this point. Are these kits known to fail easily? I don't want to install another kit, only to have it to fail and then recharge it again. There is a local shop that will cut the lines and weld them, but they charge $600 (including the recharge). That seems excessive for a cut and weld.
Wow! I never knew you could do this but can someone answer this for me. Can someone tell me why you would block these lines off? I had a rear coolant leak that bleed out if that makes since a few years ago. Mechanic rigged something but not sure what he did but I don’t have cool air back there
@4:42 when I see those PED, Packard Electric Division, or Delphi connectors reminds me of my time at Delphi. I worked in the compound facility and they made millions of pounds of pellets in all of the colors you see a week. Things were good before the destruction / bankruptcy.
Even though the lines to the rear are leaking and need to be replaced. What about the other end of the lines? Are there other things that don't need replacing? Is there a cover for them lines to keep stuff out incase he wants to reinstate that half?
it appears the little nut and washer for the high pressure side block off goes on the end of the bolt where it passes through the fitting. They are probably not necessary (because that area is threaded as you mentioned) but it's nice they included them in the kit.
The rear A/C lines on my Sienna were leaking, but rather than block them off, I repaired them with a repair kit from Dorman (yeah, I know: eww, Dorman. They're actually really nice and work great). Cost about $50 per kit, easy to install, and the rear A/C is still functional.
How do those line repair kits work, is there a patch that goes around the damaged line? I assume you'd need some indicator to see where on the line it's leaking.
@@s1mph0ny on mine, it was leaking at a junction where 2 lines bolt together. I theoretically could've unbolted the lines and just replaced the o-rings (that was the original plan), but the lines were so corroded together I couldn't separate them without basically destroying them in the process. So I cut that section of line out instead. The repair kit is a length of rubber A/C hose and some fittings. The fittings attach to the metal lines with compression fittings. And the fittings are basically hose barbs. You just slide the rubber hose on and clamp it down. They're not regular hose barbs you get at the hardware store though. It's all stuff specifically designed for A/C. The clamps are the crimp-on CV boot style, and there are 2 clamps per fitting.
Great video I did not know you could close AC lines off like that. What happened to other AC lines? Did you just leave them hanging loose? I take it these two lines have nothing to do with the Transmission or colleant? Awesome video thumbs up. Stay well & safe everyone.
Seems like a thin.say 1/8 inch thick piecs of stainless to sammich between the lines would work better.That way you'd be able to reattach the lines and not have to worry about the end floppin around and getting full of crud.....
Rear AC Block Off Kit, Fits: 2000-2014 Suburban, Yukon XL, Tahoe, Escalade: amzn.to/3PJN3HG
Just so I'm clear. This is a winter beater. The rear lines are complete garbage underneath the vehicle. That is why I never cap them off or cover them up. If somebody wants to go back they would have to replace the rear lines and evaporator so there is no sense in doing anything to prevent dirt from getting in the old ones. Just thought I'd clear that up 👍
In NC best not do any AC related jobs unless ASE certified in this field.
@@johnnysechrist6313 who’s gonna know in my garage? 😂
government job
@@johnnysechrist6313 ASE is a joke when it comes to most things, it shows you can pass the test ONLY, doesn't demonstrate that you can actually understand the systems and do the work. Also ASE doesn't have any say in AC work, That would be the EPA, and the tests for both certificates for AC work (608 for fixed installs and 609 for mobile AC) are a joke as well. Why? They are open book tests!
N-E-S-W ZAAAAAAAAAAAAAA !!!!!!
I was a tech for 40 years. I really like watching your videos you are spot on with your diagnosis & repairs. I always told my technicians 90% of the repair is diagnosis the rest to clean & repair you're a great technician. Keep up the great work
A huge THANK YOU on behalf of my father! His '02 Yukon has been without A/C all summer due to severe corrosion of the rear A/C lines, and now he'll be able to get the system up and running and recharged! You rock, Eric! :D
Im goin 1990s with this comment: You Da Man!
Oh baby! I was just thinking “I’d really enjoy watching a new SMA video…” and here we are!
I am a retired autosparky. Understand what your saying. You never stop learning, keep doing your excellent work.
Hard to believe how many worry warts in here about the rear lines that aren't to be used again. I have a hard time readin the comments when most are just nit pickers. You all come in here to see an experienced mechanic do great work, and an awesome gift of gab I must say, and yet so many question the trivial things that would drive most to drink. I guess maybe it is just a way to feel included. Ok, done bitchin, feel much better... TGIF
👍Well said !
First let me say Eric is awesome so don't get thinking I am some hater! I have an 05 Tahoe rear air. I used a block off until I had time to go to the salvage yard get a used/ good line.
My experience with block off was now the orifice tube would have a high pitch fluid sound as the compressor started. Wife found it annoying!
Welcome viewers to the best mechanic on TH-cam
Block off kits ??? Well, I've learned something new today !!! Will wonders never cease !!!!! You've been holding out on us Eric !!!!! This is a good thing to know !!!! I'll make a mental note of that for future use !!!!! Never a dull moment at SMA !!!!!!
Always enjoy watching AC work. Great job Eric! Rear AC lines in WNY can really give problems! Thanks for showing the rear-line block-off kit too. Have a great upcoming weekend everyone!
I have an 08 Tahoe. By the book, the repair is a body off job...But we found an aftermarket vendor that makes rubber lines that got us back up and going. Super happy we got it nice and cool in the back again!
I have an 05 Tahoe. Was able to go to the salvage yard pull a good used one off. Was able to get it in on my vehicle. I did have one of those nice compression fittings that I have seen Eric use To repair just in case I am to make it two pieces to get in.
All these years I never knew such a thing existed. Now I know.
My lines on my suburban had a hole in them I found a set of rubber lines online through auto cooling solutions as well that go from front to back. Was easy to install and had lifetime warranty, can't remember. 5 years later still no issues.
I have been working on vehicles since I was 14 years old and looking at your videos , I have learn more then every. Keep it up
Did the same to my 99 suburban 2 years ago, I bought the kit and let my mechanic install and charge it for me. Still plan to repair the rear AC one day when I have money to spare for it
So I went to the local shop and asked about pulling a vacuum and they had me walk 3 times around the shop pulling a ShopVac by the cord. I didn't notice any leaks, and I thought it was a strange, but for $100 I guess they're the experts!
Happy Friday (and early Saturday) everyone!
Funniest thing in a long time🤣🤣🤣🤣
Next time just go to the parts store and buy a Can-of-Vacuum, way cheaper.🤣
Must'a went to Kilmer's shop.
@@misterhat5823 Hahahahahahah....good one. Cheers
Oh, that sucks big time! 🤪🤪
Nice find. I have worked on computers for over 40 yrs then hvac field. I have fixed many problems from corroded or loose wires.
Where I worked we did A/C on company cars. We were sent to school to get certified on A/C service. We were taught if you had a system that had a leak and was without a charge even for a short time to change the receiver/ dryer because it was most likely contaminated.
Pretty cool option for those that are looking to maximize the life out of there vehicles reasonably and still have some functionality like AC that works. Another great video Eric
Eric thanks for helping my friend from Maine with her Honda Accord, she said you were awesome.
Every time I view your channel I learn tons. I'm retired so I'll probably never get to apply any of this knowledge. But thanks anyway for the many many hours of viewing. D Thurston
I always look forward to a new SMA video!!! By far my favorite, along with project farm.
TH-cam. Gotta love it. You hover over the thumbnail for this video before playing it, and it scrolls subtitles of what is allegedly being said. "Welcome back to the self-made auction channel...". WTF? :-)
I disabled that "feature" the day TH-cam rolled it out.
Anotehr simple and awesome video. This is what I consider the practical reality of owning cars in the rust belt. it's not so much always repairing everything as much as making it livable for the next couple of years until the salt gets the job finished.
Well Said! In salt areas , start moving cheap aluminum lines around,, hmmmmm looking for trouble ! Nip it @ the bud ! Good repair Eric !
I've done a little AC work recently, but it still seems like dark magic... But I always learn something from your shenanigans...
Getting my Friday fix of SMA... Have a great weekend Eric O.
I have made one by cutting the pipe and pinching it off and aluminum brazing it. It was a cheap fix for a vehicle that I wasn't keeping long.
They make caps and compression fitting kits. Just turn them on with open end wrenches.
we have fixed the rear a/c lines on a 2005 & 2007 as both were leaking above the rear wheel. We used brake lines to fix the leaking liquid line. We did the 2005 4 or 5 years ago and it's still going strong! (Sold the 07 so no idea)
Wow never knew you could block off the back side of a AC system like that unreal unreal at a Cadillac has that kind of problems love the video
Lines made in China ! No salt ! LOL
Its not completely blocked off. The block happens when the lines split, so the freon has a path to still go through.
You make everything look easy
I didn't know these were a thing. My 2014 Tahoe the rear a/c line has some tiny holes in it and the line it's self is about $1,800 and not including any labor. Awesome I can get some a/c back in my Tahoe.
great watching you sort out problems very intresting from over the pond
Good video. The rear AC in our 2005 Yukon and now our 2011 Yukon work very well, Arizona. But the kids are grown up now and we rarely have rear passengers. Good to have the rear AC blower fan going however, so R134a becomes a gas and doesn't flood compressor as a liquid.
GM uses an accumulator so you don't have that problem.
Yes! Another video from SMAR! Oh happy day. But…..only 8 minutes.😞
Used this kit from Auto Cooling Solutions a couple times before on our prior Tahoes - getting ready to do the same on our latest one - Thanks for the tip on the Big Blu leak detector!
I didn't put the kit on but I did put a new ac compressor with dry and hose along with a new expansion valve on myself then , took it to a machanic and had him pressurize it and add ac for me.
I used them for my 99 tahoe. Got the rear lines and evaporator. I was pretty proud of myself for actually accomplishing the job. Been working for a year now. The replacement lines are not rigid so installation is easier. Its nice to have rear air for the dogs.
Excellent video, thanks for presenting!!! The OCD in me says the kit maker should include plastic caps to plug the no longer used lines.
Pretty clean vehicle for a winter beater in your area! Haha. Good solution for that issue if you really don’t need that rear A/C. Here in Texas, we’d fix that A/C. Much needed here.
That’s funny I just ordered and rear AC line kit from a place 2015 Yukon
South Main Auto.. Nice job, but you already knew that Eric. Thanks for sharing it..
That's funny. "We will check that by doing this" works every time.
I’m a auto technician I do this all the time that kit is like $7
Ac recharge with dye is like $120 so customers pay $127.
Or The new lines with labor is like $600 with ac recharge $120.
You choose $127 and nice cold ac or $720 and have cold ac.
Good ole Kendra & Natalie makin an apperance
There were a couple of vales 6hat had had a visit from the valve nibbler
2014 Chevy equinox a/c blows cool then blows hot and then blows cold
Seems like the kit should have covers to cap off the rear lines as well to at least preserve what shape they are in now vs. let them get destroyed (unless they are all one piece to the rear).
36 is pretty cold for 134a systems, usually you are lucky to see 40. I've always liked the GM A/C designs vs. the others out there.
I was wondering this also.
I’ll 2nd that motion should be caps to plug off the rear lines. Especially if the reason for using those fancy plugs is to be able to return the system to full capacity sometime in the future.
For that price, they should have provided the block for the now open rear lines, no question in my mind. .
It is only running the front evaporators, rear ones leaked and are disconnected. Super cold.
Thought so too but I think he said the rear lines were leaking. If so, probably need to be replaced anyway hence capping front only.
Lol. Your transitions to the comments are getting funnier. You kind of lagged a little like you weren't sure if you really wanted to say it that way but you did. I quietly chuckled.
Cool love your work 😊I was gonna say just use some deedle nose vise grips 😅
Best auto channel on the tube since Scotty shut up...!
Nice job! I'd be taking that gm dealer to court. There tech was just going to throw parts at the problem. The problem would have still been there. Again, Great Job.
The ground wiring was aussem. Thanks for sharing
I would do the same had some on Mercedes using that type of braided strap they hate the salt eats away and fitted a solid type no more problems 👍
I thought of body ground (said it to myself) and here we go fixed correctly.
Just by the way things were and were not operating correctly.
honestly i don’t blame people for doing this i have a 2006 ford explore i just did the rear lines on and the amount of poo i had to remove to change them uhhhhh the only reason i did change them is that they were not that expensive and i had access to a lift but otherwise wow lots of work and i got lucky to have access as a friend of mine working at a shop that is crazy cool this never happens
Dude, you have been On Fire. Much appreciation for all the great content!!
Hey Eric O. Looks like you got a live one here.
Didn't know they sold Block off kits thanks for the info brother
Spent most of my life in manufacturing. Unfortunately, some people have no pride in producing a good product.
I have a 2012 Caravan where the rear A/C went FUBAR so I made the mistake of taking it to my Dodge dealer. They told me what the problem was so I said block it off. "We can't do that." So $2300 later I was cool again. The rear A/C on Caravans seems to be a common problem and is why the dealer keeps new units on the shelf.
Very popular vehicle , I’ve done many,,, reality check,,, “all vehicles with aluminum rear lines exposed to salt & now Brine , leak ! Regardless of the Hood Emblem ! +/- 5 yrs. ( made in China )
You have to watch which cap goes in the high and low. On the low side the Schrader valve sits up higher (not all of these trucks/SUVs), and if you put a high pressure side cap on the low, it'll touch the Schrader valve and create a slow leak. Since the replacement caps all touch the low side Schrader, we have to leave it uncapped.
If you manage to put the caps on backwards you are defying physics. The ports are different sizes. Large is high pressure. Small low pressure. Schrader vale should never be proud of the service port if it is installed correctly.
Great Job 👏 Eric. Thank you for tip on what’s good on Amazon. There is a lot of junk on Amazon too
We all will be working for Amazon ! Sooner than you think ! Agree with the “junk” comment! LOL
Great video as always! Wish I had a fraction of your knowledge on cars. But I’m learning!!! 👍🏻👍🏻
Very cool! Uncles Tahoe needs same. Thanks
Yhe good ol 34788 Robinair. Good machine. Great content Eric. Keep it going!
The shop I worked at manufactured barbed fitting. On those trucks we'd solder on fittings and run reduced barrier hose back to the expansion valve
👍 Just another day in Paradise !
Blast it with dry nitrogen and check for leaks. Only time that has ever let me down is with a compressor seal. And it naturally removes moisture so its a good test before the final vacuum.. And if ya want to go over the top you can get a hydrogen tracer in the bottle. But the hydrogen leak sensors are $$$$, However they really work.
Hey there Eric. Happy Friday and thumbs UP!!
Love the Lancaster hat.
Nice...
Consider capping off unused lines
If open to atmosphere the tear evap will a absorb water. All refrigerant oils absorb water. The evap coil has oil in and will collect water so going back will be moot
GM trucks usually have AC that freeze you out.....
Rear coil probably won't be missed too much.
@6:00 Sure is a good optical illusion, it looks like both service ports are on the same line.
Both ports may be on the same line. One before the restrictor and one after. High pressure ahead of the restrictor, suction pressure beyond.
Great info although it doesn’t seem feasible “going back” and fixing the rear lines with how much junk will get in them with them open in the engine bay. I recently rebuilt and flushed my friends 6.0 suburban and that was a nightmare to do those rear lines just because of how much flush you need to use. Blocking off the rear lines also would be much nicer for fixing the rear ac at a later date.
Yes, I think I would have put a small, thick plastic bag over each one, held in place with a cable tie, and then wrapped the whole thing with electrical tape.
Bonus - Eric could then have used the gas sniffer.
I think the assumption is that since the lines are leaky, you would replace them, rather than trying to repair them.
@@lwilton See the pinned comment, if you wanted to go back you'd be replacing the rear lines and evap, but this thing is a 2005 vehicle in NY, probably due for the crusher in a few years.
Being as leaky as those rear lines where, to cause a large leak, junk can get into the system anyway. Best to just replace everything and start from fresh. The lines are already junk, and the evaporator isn't going to add much more work than replacing those lines anyway. Read the pinned comments, he said some of this.
That's a nice option if you dont care about the rear air. Couple questions, why not replace the orrifice tube or check it for debris? Since the rotted out rear lines were connected to the system then there is good chance that there is debris trapped in the orrifice tube right? Second question, how do you know how much oil to add to the charge? Presumably there is some unknown amount of oil stuck in the rear lines/txv/evaporator. Lastly, to anyone who might try to DIY this, remember to only add the refrigerant charge called out for a GMT800 without rear air, otherwise you'll be adding WAY too much. Might be confusing if you try to search for r134a charge amount using "caddillac" or "escalade" since I think every single trim had rear air.
First of all, it was just a leak. Second, the oil charge would still be correct. Third, why would you keep opening lines and runnin up the bill? 4th, seems like it worked out very well. Quit your belly achin.
@@danlemke6407 👍Agree ! Eric did what was wanted by the owner ! Done every day ! Oil good , if the customer don’t care about his rear lines,,,,why should we ? Orfice tube,,,in high side line,,,not serviceable, have to buy new line ! F, it the guy wants cold air ! Not a heart transplant or MRI on his beater !
Good job blowing cold again
I had a 1982 Suburban with the rear A/C...it leaked...I decided to block it off.
A couple of small Vise-Grips and what do you know...no more leak!
A trick my Dad taught me many years ago for long vehicles like that SUV is if you crank the A/C on in the front and then crack the rear windows, it'll cool it down very nicely - even without a "dedicated" rear A/C system. Once the vehicle is cooled down, the front can maintain it without any problems. You don't really NEED the rear A/C at all.
Dont think that would work here in the desert. Temps start at 90 andf go up to 115 in the summer.
@@joerivas9847 Actually, the trick he taught me was down in Florida - where you get the heat AND the humidity. (The humidity kills you quicker than the heat does.) He got the tip because he was an appliance service tech and they got some new vans. All the techs were complaining that the van A/C systems were garbage - so the manufacturer said, crank up the A/C and open the back doors for about 10 minutes. This allowed the HVAC system to "push" all the hot air out the back of the van and from then on it was icy cold.
I appreciate that you always tell viewers to do things the right way, even though many of your customers don't seem to believe in that approach. The most important part of owning a car in my experience has been finding a service shop that does a good job. Many people are scared off by high hourly charges, but a job done right is always the cheapest. I don't even change oil myself anymore, I want a good mechanic looking it over and telling me what is going to be needed next to keep it in good condition. I cringe at some of "pigs" you work on, but still give them good service. Well done!
Ya, I wish I had an R134A machine. Don't know where you could rent one, never heard of that, but it would be a big help.
Nice work Mr. O!
Maybe I'm wrong, but I think he means rent the vacuum pump. Vacuum down the system and the charge with 410a cans.
First thing to check! Clean your grounds.
I would add 3 oz for the lines that are still in vehicle that still go to the delete plug
I bought a block off kit, similar to this one, for my 2016 Caravan and installed it myself. I had a guy come and put in refrigerant, it held the charge, and blew iceicles for almost 3 weeks. Then yesterday, I go to turn on the van, and I smell smoke. Look outside, and there's smoke all around my vehicle (I hadn't left my driveway yet). So I turned off the van, got out, and heard loud hissing coming from the area where I installed the cap-off kit (partway down the passenger side, underneath). I am afraid to try to turn on the AC at this point. Are these kits known to fail easily? I don't want to install another kit, only to have it to fail and then recharge it again. There is a local shop that will cut the lines and weld them, but they charge $600 (including the recharge). That seems excessive for a cut and weld.
Wow! I never knew you could do this but can someone answer this for me. Can someone tell me why you would block these lines off? I had a rear coolant leak that bleed out if that makes since a few years ago. Mechanic rigged something but not sure what he did but I don’t have cool air back there
You're the best! Another awesome video!
@4:42 when I see those PED, Packard Electric Division, or Delphi connectors reminds me of my time at Delphi. I worked in the compound facility and they made millions of pounds of pellets in all of the colors you see a week. Things were good before the destruction / bankruptcy.
Fixing the AC on a winter beater.. yeah I get it I was thinking now why would you need air conditioning in the winter. LOL
just got one from them to block off a Frieghtliner sleeper
Even though the lines to the rear are leaking and need to be replaced. What about the other end of the lines? Are there other things that don't need replacing? Is there a cover for them lines to keep stuff out incase he wants to reinstate that half?
Sweet. Didn’t know about this work around.
it appears the little nut and washer for the high pressure side block off goes on the end of the bolt where it passes through the fitting. They are probably not necessary (because that area is threaded as you mentioned) but it's nice they included them in the kit.
Excellent video as always Eric.
The rear A/C lines on my Sienna were leaking, but rather than block them off, I repaired them with a repair kit from Dorman (yeah, I know: eww, Dorman. They're actually really nice and work great). Cost about $50 per kit, easy to install, and the rear A/C is still functional.
How do those line repair kits work, is there a patch that goes around the damaged line? I assume you'd need some indicator to see where on the line it's leaking.
@@s1mph0ny on mine, it was leaking at a junction where 2 lines bolt together. I theoretically could've unbolted the lines and just replaced the o-rings (that was the original plan), but the lines were so corroded together I couldn't separate them without basically destroying them in the process. So I cut that section of line out instead. The repair kit is a length of rubber A/C hose and some fittings. The fittings attach to the metal lines with compression fittings. And the fittings are basically hose barbs. You just slide the rubber hose on and clamp it down. They're not regular hose barbs you get at the hardware store though. It's all stuff specifically designed for A/C. The clamps are the crimp-on CV boot style, and there are 2 clamps per fitting.
As long as the a/c was discharged wouldn’t it have been cheap preventive maintenance to replace the Schraeder valves?
I wouldn't. Schrader valves are long lasting in a sealed system (caps on) . One of those mechanical things you don't fix if it ain't broken.
Nice kit! Chevy thunder!
Great video I did not know you could close AC lines off like that. What happened to other AC lines? Did you just leave them hanging loose? I take it these two lines have nothing to do with the Transmission or colleant? Awesome video thumbs up. Stay well & safe everyone.
Hot🥵we need that a/c bro🥶
ANOTHER C O O L SMA VIDEO👍
I love qc work
Thank You Eric❤❤❤❤
Great video Eric !
In my suburban I ended up buying all the parts from a pickup and swapped it over lol
Seems like a thin.say 1/8 inch thick piecs of stainless to sammich between the lines would work better.That way you'd be able to reattach the lines and not have to worry about the end floppin around and getting full of crud.....