Tamiya Ducati 888 Superbike Racer 1/12 | The Inner Nerd
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 ก.ค. 2024
- Tamiya Ducati 888 Superbike Racer in 1/12 scale by The Inner Nerd
Instructional time lapse video of the full build, and painting of the 1/12 scale Ducati 888 Superbike Racer by Tamiya in as shown by The Inner Nerd
The first part of this video shoes the build up of the engine and chassis using Tamiya Extra Thin Poly Cement and Tamiya Extra Thin Quick Setting Poly Cement. Also included in this section is the inclusion of Aftermarket Photo Etched parts which are applied with Loctite 406 CA Superglue to add more detailing into the scale model. Some scratch building using Evergreen Polystyrene Rods and Sheet also adds to the detailing of the model. This completes the model in a more detailed way by adding hydraulic and electrical wires like on the real subject.
The second part of the video shows the build of the chassis and interior details. Fine grit sanding papers and sponges are used to prepare the surface for painting where mold lines need to be removed. I use 3M and Tamiya sanding sponges and papers in 800, 1200, 2000, 3000 & 6000 dpi grits to get a smooth and even surface. Ultimate Modelling Tools Perfect Plastic Putty is used to fill and y gaps between panels to get a consistent surface on the model and fill any gaps that are unsigtly. Mr Hobby Mr Surfacer 1000, 1200, & 1500 finishing primer is used to prime all the parts on the scale model ready for painting. This helps highlight the imperfections on the parts before the top colour coat from Tamiya, Mr Color, Gunze Sangyo or Zero Paints is applied. I use Mr Hobby Mr Surfacer Grey and Black surfacers to prime the parts. This to help highlight the imperfections on the parts before the top colour coat in both a light and dark colour.
The third part of the video shows the painting of the body shell pieces. Here I use Zero Paints Lacquer colour to paint the body in a colour matched paint to the manufacturer. I spray in light coats to build up the paint in thin layers until the body colour is uniform. I use Harder & Steenbeck Evolution Silverline is used with Badger 1100 with Anti-Pulsation Tank Working Pressure
22psi (1.51bar). Also included in this section is the Engine Exhaust painting using Alclad 2 Lacquers
(Airframe Aluminium, Aluminium, Steel, Jet Exhaust, Copper, Pale Burnt Metal, Polished Brass) and Tamiya clear paints Clear Re, Blue, Green, Yellow and Orange to create a burnt metal effect. 3 layers of Gunnze Sangyo Mr Color GX-100 Superclear III clear gloss seal the decals in. I also use Zero Paints Diamond Finish 2K Clear which is a 2 pack 3 part clear coat system used to create a diamond mirror like shine on the painted surface. This pack contains a Thinner, Hardener & Clear which have to be mixed manually to create the correct mix ratio. This is applied in dust coats followed by 3 wet layers with one day separating each coat. Decals follow painting with the aid of Mr Hobby Mr Mark Setter & Softer products. These products allow the decal to form to the shapes and panel lines of the surface which you can see in the video.
Next up is the flat and polish technique to reduce and remove the orange peel effect found when spraying thick clear coats of Zero Paints Diamond Finish 2K Clear. I start by using 2000 grit 3M sanding sponge to cut through the top layer of clear and create a smooth and even surface. 3000 grit 3M sanding sponge to smoothen the surface further and remove the cutting scores made by the 2000 grit 3M sponge.
After the orange peel effect has been removed through 2000 & 3000dpi sanding I use Tamiya Polishing Compounds; Coarse, Fine and Finish to buff the surface to a shine and mirror like finish. First the Tamiya Coarse Polishing Compound is used to buff out the scratches made by sanding and begin to create a shine. Next up is Tamiya Fine Polishing Compound which further buffs the surface creating a deeper shine and smoother looking finish to the Zero Paints Diamond Finish 2K Clear coat. Final stage is using 2 passes Tamiya Finish Polishing Compound
#saveyourinternet
Items Used
Airbrush: Harder & Steenbeck Evolution Silverline Solo Needle/Nozzle: 0.15mm
Compressor: Badger 1100 with Anti-Pulsation Tank Working Pressure 22psi (1.51bar)
Paint: Mr Hobby Mr Surfacer 1000, Mr Hobby Mr Surfacer 1200 & Mr Hobby Mr Finishing Surfacer 1500 thinned with cellulose lacquer thinner
Tamiya Acrylics thinned with Tamiya X-20A Thinner
Mr Hobby Aqueous
Abteilung 502 Oils - Black / Industrial Earth / Olive Green
Winsor & Newton Oils - Yellow Ochre / Raw Umber / Burnt Sienna / White
AK Interactive Pigments - Gun Metal, Europe Earth, Russian Earth, Medium Rust, Pigment Fixer
Vallejo Masking Fluid
Winsor & Newton UV Cut Matte Enamel Varnish
Brushes: Pure Sable Brush - Various Sizes
Glue: Tamiya Extra Thin Cement
Tamiya Poly Cement
Revell Contacta Professional
Loctite 406 CA Superglue
Sanding: 3M 600p / 800p / 1200p / 2000p / 3000p sheets & sponges
Tamiya Polishing Compounds (Course, Fine & Finish)
Evergreen Polystyrene Sheet/Rod/Strips - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
Hi everyone. Hope you enjoy the video of my first Motorcycle. If you'd like to see more of this kind of thing or have a suggestion for another build please leave a comment below. Happy modelling and thank you for watching!
The Inner Nerd
nice video . build another bikes bro
Suzuki GSXR 1300 R Hayabusa 1:12 Tamiya please!? Greetings from Marbella!
The Inner Nerd please build a Ducati 916 but custom as a 916 sps. That would be epic with your skills
Great build! And a classic bike, to boot.
This made me miss dry clutch bikes, though :,(
Sweet build. I dig how you think out of the box to bring the most realism out of your builds. Most model making seems to lack the artistic insight that you have. Very creative
You're always inspiring. If I may, I would suggest the Honda RC213V driven by Marc Marquez and edited by Tamiya. It's a bit weird to find Dunlop and Michelin on the same model, they are competitors, none of them would accept the other brand with it's one on the same surface, but this is the magic of modelling.
Wow, that's inspired me to finally dig out my Troy Bayliss World Superbike Ducati 996 and build it.
PS: The special colour for the track stand looks very similar to Bianchi bicycles blue/turquoise (?) - very cool and makes a nice contrast to the bike.
I’m a DUCATISTA you got a very good work, great attention to details. Bravo!
Damn. Sick build mate. Do more please.
beautiful build, impressive! like to see more of this 👍
Total Awesomeness
Как всегда высший пилотаж!!!
Great build! That 888 Duc looks awesome and thanks to you I just found something I've been looking for... Blu-Stuff! I'm so excited because I've needed Micheline Pilot tire decals for my '99 Repsol Honda NSR 500. Thanks for posting the info. on your video too.
Great job. Love watching these build vids
Your techniques are impressive! Very beautiful bike.
Looks like you were enjoying simulating all those modern materials and finishes...
Kick ass Ducati 😉👍crackin vid amigo, respect, Tim the primered thumb
Another great job Matt. Fantastic results mate.
Perfect,nice job.
Awsome build
Ммммммммм... Дукати... Спасибо за ваше видео. Я встретился с мечтой.
AWESOME work!!!!🔥🔥🔥👍
Awesome looking Ducati buddy 😍
Canadian viewer. Fabulous job on the kit.
Very nice work
Very nice !! 👌👍👍
Super!!!!!
Nice!!!!!
Who dislikes these kind of videos? We are Artists, we create, not build. So for those haters, please help take note. Thanks.
Nice build. Just note that with motorcycle fairings, many of the gaps are meant to be there. They represent the different parts of the whole fairing make-up. The gaps you filled next to the screen are actually supposed to remain. It would be extremely hard to work on a motorcycle if the fairing was a complete on piece item like you made it. Certainly, the join in the lower centre is wrong (below the radiator) however the split along the main fairing also represents the 2 sides of the fairing.
Yes I realised this after I had done all that work. On the reference photo I was working to the light looked as though it was one piece of fairing, but turned out to be two sides and a nose. My next motorbike build will be a scratch build Cafe Racer based on the 748. Thanks for watching :)
Hey Inner Nerd, beautiful build! The realism is amazing. However, I have two tips for using 2k clear: 1) I recommend spraying all 3 coats of 2k at once. The third and final coat is best sprayed with extra thinner so it levels out the paint and reduces a lot of orange peel. 2) Tamiya compound is not ideal for 2k because 2k is too hard for the compound. Tamiya compound is perfect for their TS13, but not 2k. I recommend Zero Paints compound or any automotive compound.
Cheers!
The orange peel is in the colour not the clear coat, needs level thinners and a high grit sand between 2nd and 3rd colour coat
Stunning build and very well laid out explanation bravo! you even nailed the music choice, this video is 10/10 for me. Thanks mate.
Thank you and thanks for watching :)
Astounding
Thank you and thanks for watching :)
damn is this a masterpiece
High skill work
Very Good NICE
Awesome job!
I got my first motorcycle kit a couple days ago, the Panigale 1199 S. Am going to paint it TS-59, after finding a photo.
Thank you. Best of luck with your bike build and what a colour! I have a 916 to build sometime this year hopefully after a few more aircraft. Thanks for watching :)
Good job :)
nice work.
Thank you and thanks for watching :)
An impressive and beautiful build. The attention to detail, visuals and commentary all added to a most enjoyable viewing. Any thoughts re building a ship???? Will look forward to see what's next on your build list.
Thank you I'm glad to hear you enjoyed the video! I'm not into maritime models in the shape of a battleship - far too many PE parts and mini pieces for my liking! I would consider a PT or Gun Boat of some sort however in the future if enough people wanted me to go away from the normal military aircraft theme :)
So cool man. My favorite 888 I've seen finished, and your video is excellent. Thanks for posting!
Wonderful work on a beautiful model, congratulations !!! quick question: what do you use to to thin the mr. surfacer 1200 ?? thanks
Thank you! For the thinning of the surfacer I use Mr Color Self-Levelling thinner. It’s by far the best thinner I have used for lacquers. I thin roughly 50/50 so it lays on nice and smooth
Top!
Thank you and thanks for watching :)
Hey man just curious if there's some way i can buy something you've made, and what the cost would be. I think you said that fa18 was for a customer?
A beautiful job and great presentation of the video. The commentary along each stage is a huge help to a relatively new modeller like myself. I'm building this kit at the moment and would love to know how you get the tubing simulated brake lines etc to go on so easily. It looks like you may have used a larger tubing than what is supplied in the kit?.
This is only my second motorcycle as I normally build cars. Have subscribed and look forward to more of your fantastic skills at work.
Thank you. The brake lines are all standard from the kit but I remember they did need some persuasion to get onto the nodules they locate on. I think brute force is what worked for me in the end. Thanks for watching and I plane to make some more motorcycles in the future :)
Great work as usual, how about a Italiani sacania show truck 👍
Thank you! Noted, I have a pretty special idea for one of those already 👍
V nice build, love all types of kits but all the airbrush cleaning really puts me of using it. Is there z fast track way around this between colours as after a few attempts mine just sits on the bench now
Thank you. Cleaning out th airbrush completely isn't absolutely necessary. I try to work as efficiently as possible so that I maximise the colour that's is the cup at that given moment as well as plan work based on what colour is needed. So for this one I grouped parts that were silver, black and red so that I could spray each colour in one session, saves putting the colour in just to clean it out after one part. It's a given this isn't always going to work but it does save a lot of effort if you can group together the main colours of a build.
Also I clean the airbrush just enough so that the colour isn't going to affect the next, only doing a full strip-down clean once I've done for the day or a few hours. I find it's not necessary to do a full strip down between colours, as long as there is no paint residue of the previous colour coming through once you're ready to start the next.
Hope this helps, airbrushing is by far a quicker and more consistent way of painting a model so I highly advise you stick with it. There are also sonic cleaners which will help with the task of cleaning out your airbrush at the end of a session, getting to those areas you can't by any other means.
www.amazon.co.uk/Uten-Ultrasonic-Cleaner-Cleaning-ultrasonic/dp/B08YJBB637/ref=sr_1_11?dchild=1&keywords=Sonic+Cleaner&qid=1625119873&sr=8-11
No irl duccti oil leakage problem ;;
Awesome build!! 😍🙌💪 Only the music gets a bit heavy with the time... It felt like I was watching con air 😁
Thank you. Yes the music is a bit too much I know. I got for a more chilled vibe now and hopefully it's less stressful to watch :)
Потрясающая работа! Но есть вопрос: на переднем обтекателе под ветровым стеклом пустота так задумана или деталь/декаль утеряна???
Спасибо и поправьте. Это было то место, где я использовал мои скрепки для рисования, чтобы удержать кусок во время рисования. Я забыл исправить это до того, как все прозрачные покрытия, поэтому было слишком поздно, чтобы исправить. Я знаю в следующий раз
@@TheInnerNerd да,над передним колесом и под ветровым стеклом... то место белым покрашено...
Ducati!
Hi...great video.....do the instructions in the kits list all the colours you need to buy?......cheers
Hello and thank you. The instructions do call out the colours, but I now tend to just look at a reference and go from there. As you build up a paint collection that's a luxury you can have. But most kits will have a colour callout in them if you're shirt on paints. Thanks for watching :)
When you were painting the fairing (cowling), how do you get such a dense flow of paint? Whenever I do it, it comes out super thin at 30 psi. Very new to this stuff.
I use a Harder & Steenbeck Evo Silverline with 0.2mm needle. The working pressure I use is 15psi and the paint is thinned sufficiently not to spatter or create lumps that spit out of the brush when spraying.
If you are having trouble with flow it is most likely be one of two things since you are spraying at such a high pressure.
1 - The paint is too thick. On this model I used Zero Paints which is pre-thinned ready for airbrush use. But if you are spraying Tamiya acrylics for example they will need to be thinned with Tamiya X-20A or Mr Color Self Levelling Thinner. One trick is to get a brnad new pot of paint and add enough thinner so that the bottle fills up tp the neck of the jar. This si then typically ready for use through an airbrush straight from the pot in the future.
2 - The airbrush is clogged. Ensure you have the correct thinners for the type of paint you are using. Using the incorrect thinners can cause some paints to become like jelly or not thin them at all which can cause flow issues. Make sure you clean your airbrush thoroughly after each session as dried paint can form and collect in teh nozzle which will eventually cause the airbrush to clog completely. I find putting the airbrush in an ultrasonic cleaner for around 4 mins after each airbrushign session keeps it clean and in perfect serviceable condition. If you don't have access to one of these then I suld suggest a full strip down and clean with the appropriate thinner and cotton buds. An airbrush is made from stainless steel and should be easy to keep spotless even in the coour cut if cleaned after every use. In effect they should last forever if you're taking care if it.
One final additional factor could be that the needle is damaged. A bent needle tip could be blocking the gap on your nozzle and restricting the flow so be sure to check this too.
If you let me know if this heps and what type of paints you use with what thinners I'm sure we can get to the bottom of your issue.
Many thanks and good luck
The Inner Nerd
@@TheInnerNerd I use Tamiya paints and thinner. The airbrush is a HSeng. It's new, and very clean. I think it's a setup problem more than anything else. The airbrush didn't come with any instructions on settings for it, so it's sort of a hit and miss atm.
Ahh okay. Hard to pin point what is wrong exactly then other than your air pressure seems a but high compared to what I'm used to working on.
@@TheInnerNerd I tried running it at lower pressure (15), it didn't seem to work as well. I think the problem was too much thinner. I'm not sure on what the right ratio is to paint to thinner and clear to thinner. I read somewhere, take a full pot of paint and fill it with thinner n it'd be about right. It improved it, but it's still comes out very thin.
That is one Bad A$$ build my friend
Nice work sir I'm actually just about to build my first bike model - Tamiya Ninja ZxRR. I've been watching every video I can I find as in the 35+ years of modeling bikes and figures are the last genres I haven't tried and bikes seem to be a completely different type of model all together. Any advice or tips you could share would be most appreciated!
Thank you. The boggest difference for me as I usually make aircraft is the surface prep. Back and to with the primer to get rid of any blemishes. Also test fit and make as many sub assemblies as possible to paint. Hope this helps and thanks for watching :)
Can you use primer undercoat from a diy stote
Yes this is possible. From a rattle can you may find it hard to apply as light a coat as you can with an airbrush and the primer itself can be a little think too compared with the control you'll get from using something like Mr Surfacer. But if you're not too particular about such then yes, go ahead :)
Hey..Nice Build and a Beautiful Bike.But the Original Race 851 and early 888 have No Taillight.The Rear was Open,and Take a look on the Excenter Wipe.
Greetings From Germany.
Thank you! And yes I know, but I was making a track bike copied from someones own converted road bike. Therefore it still has some road bike features and not s fully converted race bike, but thanks for the tip
@@TheInnerNerd Okay, all right. Everyone likes it. I used metal paint on my models for the exhaust systems, but I do not know the manufacturer, but they are super mixable, and they make nice metal titanium look. Good as you are But I did not build the model at a long distance. More like that .. Great hobby.
I'd love to get into this but wouldn't even know where to start
Honestly, juts go for it. If you'd like to know more about what to buy first off then just let me know and I can give you a few pointers so you don't go wasting your money :)
You did an amazing job on this thing. I have one coming in about a week, along with a Tamiya 916. I've never built a model before in my life. How much would you charge to build it for me?! ;)
Thank you! I hope your build goes well, I really fancy doing a 916 also as that has got to be my favourite bike!! And welcome to modelling. If you have any questions just let me know in the comments and I'll do my best to answer them for you. For commision builds for Cars and Motorcycles please contact the.inner.nerdYT@gmail.com
I have the next best thing! A 1993 Ducati 888 SPO full scale :)
l remember MY first motorbike model..... 😬😂
Thank you and thanks for watching :)
Nice build, but why is Tamiya still using those out of scale screws !!!!
Dafuq do you want 'em to use?! You have to be able to screw 'em in!
@@maximusmax4557 magnets
DUNLOP?
Dunlop?
MICHELIN?
Clearly Michelin.
Nice work, but music is silly.
When I clicked on this vid it had 777 views and was downloaded 7 house ago.
Lucky number 7 it seems!
Funny how u get rid of the seams , while on the real bike the seams are also there :)
Not on the track bike version. The cowling on the front is one piece going from the picture I copied to make this scheme :) Thanks for watching :)
@@TheInnerNerd Think u are wrong I remembering seeing that bike in real life and it had definatly a seam ! Search 1993 falappa Giancarlo police duc and on the pictures u will see the seam aswell . Nonetheless fantastic job on the model !
Beautiful build. However absolutely nobody ever cleans and polishes their paddock stand. Bikes are our pride and joy and get washed, dried, polished and waxed. The paddock stands get kicked around the garage/shed/pit. A bit of chipping and weathering here would add to the authenticity.
Nerd change the music/soundtrack, it s not an action movie and doesn t fit this activity...good job on the rest!
Thank you. Unfortunately I cannot change it now it's uploaded but I now use a less dramatic soundtrack to the videos and gone for more clam and classical. I find it difficult to get enough calm music that is still engaging to watch and builds as the model gets more complete
@@TheInnerNerd i think that any kind of chillout music will do, Vanilla for example, no voice just nice sound. Good luck and i wait for more uploads!
Baloney! This music was MUCH better than the EDM/techno pop/dream pop garbage everyone else puts on their videos. I actually *listened* to this video while I watched it. Kudos, Nerd!
@@maximusmax4557 to each it s own
@@TheInnerNerd Try Mozart or Vivaldi, Mr Nerd.
Y'all must be using some weak bleach, I stripped chrome from a kit a couple nights ago, took 2.4 minutes not 24 hours LOL