As far as the K-member torque specs. I'm not 100% sure on that. Some years have different specs And the owners manuals have both 65lb-ft and 130lb-ft. So idk. Be careful not to damage any threads.
Thanks again very clear. Can't you move to the Netherlands I would bring my Camaro to you haha. You should have much more subscribers because everything that you put on video is gold
I’m at this point of my build, I haven’t installed my k-member yet because I don’t have a motor yet, I’m looking for either a ls1 or lq4. Just waiting to find one at a junkyard, once I find one I’ll buy the right engine mount
I did the same clean up on the spindles and I kept the factory cross member I have ground control weight jacks and koni yellows Terrific video!!! Thank you
Bro! I’m now convinced you and I are at the exact same point in each of our builds and moving at roughly the same pace! Every time you post a video it’s exactly what I had been working on that week, from measuring for wheel/tire clearance to clutch master cylinder hole cutting and now Detroit speed A arms! I went with a Heidts K member and I can’t get those Detroit speed A arms to fit! The mounting flanges on the heidts piece aren’t as easily manipulated as the one on the stock. So I’m kinda stuck trying to figure out where to go from here 🤷🏻♂️
@@3rdGenGuy I may have to do that as well. But I’ll still have to figure out how to widen the crossmember flanges without popping the welds cuz as it sits now, when I try to line up the A arms the flange hits right at the metal bushing sleeve 😔
@@NotAGarage I’ve thought about it cuz I’ve run into snags here and there and thought, man I wonder how many other guys ran into this too lol. Im just not very good with the content creating. DEFINITELY not as good as 3rd Gen Guy 🏆
youll have lots of room to start the upper transmission bolts from up top using those mounts. so when you get into the transmission install. it's not that bad. i used a 4L60E in my swap i also used your video to cut the crossmember got mine running and driving last week
if you have UMI front weight jacks, a 8in or 9.5in spring free length works. it's a 5.5in spring with a open end and one closed end. Landrum has a Ton of springs available. everything from 350in rate to 2,200lb
Holds up fine for the maybe 5,000 miles a year my car gets. Race tires pick up rocks like crazy so wheel wells get pelted. it's like a constant sand blaster inside my wheel wells lol
As far as the K-member torque specs.
I'm not 100% sure on that.
Some years have different specs
And the owners manuals have both 65lb-ft and 130lb-ft. So idk.
Be careful not to damage any threads.
Your video production is just superior!!
Thanks again very clear. Can't you move to the Netherlands I would bring my Camaro to you haha. You should have much more subscribers because everything that you put on video is gold
Well my family is originally from Amsterdam. But that was 75 years ago ha ha.
I like the extra effort of cleaning the bearing for the strut. That's the little things that make a huge difference. Great job bro!!!
I’m at this point of my build, I haven’t installed my k-member yet because I don’t have a motor yet, I’m looking for either a ls1 or lq4. Just waiting to find one at a junkyard, once I find one I’ll buy the right engine mount
This video is therapeutic
I did the same clean up on the spindles and I kept the factory cross member I have ground control weight jacks and koni yellows
Terrific video!!! Thank you
Bro! I’m now convinced you and I are at the exact same point in each of our builds and moving at roughly the same pace! Every time you post a video it’s exactly what I had been working on that week, from measuring for wheel/tire clearance to clutch master cylinder hole cutting and now Detroit speed A arms! I went with a Heidts K member and I can’t get those Detroit speed A arms to fit! The mounting flanges on the heidts piece aren’t as easily manipulated as the one on the stock. So I’m kinda stuck trying to figure out where to go from here 🤷🏻♂️
You should post videos! I'd love to see more 3rd gen content. I upload videos of mine
I didn't show this, but I sanded of about 0.030in off the bushings to get them to fit.
super tight fit for sure.
@@3rdGenGuy I may have to do that as well. But I’ll still have to figure out how to widen the crossmember flanges without popping the welds cuz as it sits now, when I try to line up the A arms the flange hits right at the metal bushing sleeve 😔
@@NotAGarage I’ve thought about it cuz I’ve run into snags here and there and thought, man I wonder how many other guys ran into this too lol. Im just not very good with the content creating. DEFINITELY not as good as 3rd Gen Guy 🏆
Thank you for showing people that you should cut your cotter pins to the proper length. I have snagged myself on those too long of a pin many times!
I am amazed that those big brakes fit behind the stock wheels, I thought you would need at least 17's for those to work.
Thank you for making these videos, they are just what I need.
Amazing. This video is made of gold. Much apppreciation
Awesome video as usual. Keep up the great work. 👍
Excellent explanation and excellent equipment. Nice work as usual!
Great upgrades and description!
I believe your rotors are on backwards. Slots should vent outwards not inward.
the slots can face either way.
slots don't determine rotor direction.(Dodge Hellcats for example)
the curved veins however have a specific direction.
You car is looking very good.
youll have lots of room to start the upper transmission bolts from up top using those mounts. so when you get into the transmission install. it's not that bad. i used a 4L60E in my swap
i also used your video to cut the crossmember got mine running and driving last week
I actually installed the T56 bell-housing first, then the t56.
so much easier
@@3rdGenGuy ahh i see. went stick, i see. i respect it. my 2010 was a 6 speed. but Ares is Auto. it's going to be a full blown race car. lol
💯
Great video but I would never recommend to start a thread chaser on full throttle with a power tool
I like to live dangerously lol
Can you please provide infos on those Billet Dust Caps? The stock ones are crap...
it's a Joes Racing 28600 Dust Cap
Whats the difference in the weight jacks in place for the regular coilspring in the front??
weight jacks allow you to adjust ride heights.
about 4in of range
With the use of the Holley LS motor mounts, are you using the stock F-body oil pan, or did you have to use Holley's 302-2 oil pan? Thanks in advance
you can use either pan, however the F-body pan still needs the k-member notch. they Holley an does not according to Holley.
Who did you go with for the front springs to replace the umi ones? I need to ditch mine for some stiffer any spring lengths that can help?
if you have UMI front weight jacks, a 8in or 9.5in spring free length works.
it's a 5.5in spring with a open end and one closed end.
Landrum has a Ton of springs available.
everything from 350in rate to 2,200lb
Surprised you didnt go with rack and pinion steering rack
Rack and pinions are for the drag race guys. There's no power rack that would be suitable for road racing in a 3rd gen.
@3rd gen
Wouldn't the rack and pinion found on a 4th gen be "suitable"?
Hey. Curious can you please tell me your rim backspacing and size for the front and rear?
I have 3 vidoes on my channel on wheel fitment
Did you use the Detroit Speed steering components?
No, it's a mix of MOOG and ACDelco. DSE sells the pro-forged stuff. Any of those 3 are fine.
Spray can undercoating ...is not the best product to use .. your automotive paint stores can supply the proper coatings
Holds up fine for the maybe 5,000 miles a year my car gets.
Race tires pick up rocks like crazy so wheel wells get pelted.
it's like a constant sand blaster inside my wheel wells lol