This is why youre among my favorite terrainers. You teach us methods for basics and terrain necessities, not "this week, I make a chaotic center piece Im going to use once"...so thanks, mate. On the half cuts: what i do is make the half cut, and then instead of bending away, i slice a 45 on the inseams, so it can be folded inward, making it appear seamless :-)
Thanks for the kind comments mate :oD Your foamboardfu must be strong, every time I've tried that 45 technique, I've seriously messed it up mate. I just gave up on it.
There are whittling tools, and clay carving tools (very sharp) that have a 45 degree bend in the blade. I gingerly use that to push the 45 out. THERE, now you know my secret! haha
@@TheTerrainTutor another method is used by FliteTest for their RC airplanes, they cut half or less way through one side of the paper and the foam, fold in half the other way to break the foam, and then the 45 degree is cut on the exposed edge.
not just that, but at 2:10 and at various points in the video, Josh shows you how to curve foam without making many half cuts if the half cut technique's appearance is unwanted th-cam.com/video/DRgKW__by2c/w-d-xo.html
When you give a tutorial, you really give a tutorial. I've just learned more about foam board and the cutting of it than I thought possible. I'm not even half way through the video yet. Salute....
About to use foamboard for the first time and you came up in my research re cutting it - I learned so much more! Loved the serendipity cardboard peeling moment & the half cut curve technique has given my project a total redesign. You're a great teacher, thank you!
Great and priceless tips... One more for you : when I glue pieces together, I use what I call a reverse half cut... Meaning I remove one side of the card board and the foam underneath it, leaving just one side of the card board. After removing it, I have a small piece of cardboard (only) where I can put my glue. That way, you don't see the foam on the join, you only see the card board... The rest of the technique (pins and all) is the same...
Loved this video. I was cutting me foam wrong, but I don't plan to make those same mistakes again. I always wondered why me cuts were coming out jagged. Now I know. I always liked watching your videos.
A couple of minor things: For corners, I like to plunge cut: Place the back of a #11 blade right at the corner, then push the tip straight through the foamcore. You have to be careful to make sure that you're vertical in both directions, but once the corners are done, it's just connecting the dots to finish the opening. For people who are worried about cuts, you don't have to go to butcher's mail gloves, there are "cut-resistant gloves" available as well (we have them at work for some of our assemblers). They're more flexible and allow a better grip than mail, but they're still a bit rigid and constraining. I don't use them for hobby work (hadn't really though of it until reading the comment section here), but I might try them the next time I'm don't some serious cutting.
Another great video. I really like the fact that you explain everything in great detail in your Back to Basics videos. I'm sure some folks have taken their hard earned knowledge for granted and just intuitively understand what they're seeing when they watch terrain vids. I would definitely recommend your videos to anyone just starting out.
That was sort of the idea around the B2B series, to give a foundation knowledge in the basic materials we use to make terrain. I'm glad they're working out for you mate
Great video! As someone returning to terrain building (after 15+ years) your videos are a must! Plus, the discovery at the end of the video made this even better. Keep it up.
I am gonna begin making dioramas thanks to your teaching...i feel likee you share methods others would only offer to a paid apprentice. You taught me that I CaN do this. ty so much man. Cheers from Indiana USA
Great video. I've learned some new things. One thing I did pick up from watching other videos is that when you don't want the foam to show in the corners, you can do a half cut on one wall a wall's width from the edge (in the case of the foam in this vid, 5 mm). Skim of the foam and you have a piece of cardboard that will cover the foam of the other wall. An added bonus to doing that is that it will give you more surface area for the glue to hold on to and make a stronger join.
This was the best video on foam core I've seen. I learned a lot from it, and I've been working with foam core for a while now. I do have one tip. I have noticed that if foam core warps from being painted, you can usually get it to warp back to flat by painting the other side of the board. Don't know if this is a problem you've experienced, since you brace your projects. Just thought it might come in handy.
Pins, Lego, half cuts, masking tape! These tips are brilliant mate. You are the man. I wish I'd found your vids earlier, woulda saved me some wasted foam board
Mel, Once again what an outstanding video. I sent the link to your channel to a friend of mine today and we are busy coming up with ways to make a great 40k diorama using what you've shown us so far. Have a great weekend and greetings from Brugge.
Wonderful! I appreciate you sharing these techniques. I am planning to get the Foamwerks from Logan Graphics. You've shown me that the extra tools are optional. I like you videos. Lots of inspiration for my game table. Thank you!
Great stuff Mel! Just got my hands on some old pictures from work, mounted on foam board & wasn't too confident in attacking it until I'd seen this. Cheers!
You are now officially my terrain guru!! I am learning so much from your uploads really appreciate the time and effort you put into these videos- thanks very much! Got to say I laughed out loud with your slip of the tongue ' Sticks out like a 'thor' sum' lol classic!! :D
For america the dollar tree sells foam core for YUP $1 but the paper is made to peel off so you can have just the core but also works well for buildings and such
Definitely second this. The adhesive on the Dollar Store/Dollar Tree stuff is kinda weak so you don't end up with little scraggly bits of the cardboard left on there when you tear it off. Had that problem with more "expensive" foam boards. Cheap stuff is the way to go.
Great video! I've done some work with foamcore before, but its always good to get a technique refresher. I will definitely be using that trick with the heat gun in the future as well!
Hi Mel, That's exactly my intent. I want to carve fishbone paving into the thin foam. I was trying to figure out weather I needed to strip the paper off both sides before gluing to the MDF, or just glue the paper side onto it.
I'm so glad you found an awesome technique at the end of the video to remove the paper. Every time you sliced it with that long razor, I was on the edge of my seat worrying it might slip since you were cutting towards yourself--so scary/dangerous!
TheTerrainTutor It's probably because I"ve been cut a couple times pretty badly with knives hehe. I"m a bit affraid of them. I want a table saw but I can't get myself to get one because I'm sure I'll cut off a finger or two, lol!
Great best practices for permanent structures. Any pointers for making modular wall sections? Trying to make modular sections/corners that will stand up but break down to store flat when not in use.
I usually call the bigger one a box cutter. X-acto I think of as making things more like your smaller one. Have you ever used a rotary blade for cutting foamboard? Great tips!
TheTerrainTutor Have you looked at my earlier vids. ;) I recently went back to look at my first. Hmmm... Not so good. And not as good as your start for sure. If you ever have questions about video production, feel free to ask. :) mike@terranscapes.com I'm no expert, but I'm always glad to help if I can.
Really appreciate all the tips. Thanks. Just want to add that the type of mat you have will warp under a heat gun. I know you were quick with it, but for anyone else out there, thought I'd just pass that on. I speak from bitter experience.
Gave you a thumbs up for the curved thing. Almost took it away for you using your teeth on the glue needle 0_0 This was amazing, and I see a bunch more videos from you in the sidebar as I type this - thanks in advance!
TheTerrainTutor I posted some pics to your Facebook page. I have to say, your trick to doing windows and doors with pins and a taped up ruler worked very well.
Yeah, that's only because the kids are at school at the mo mate, it'll seriously slow down at half term and you'll think I'm dead by the end of summer! Cheers mate
Great Video a really good over view and tips and tricks of foam board, there is a difference between black and white foam board as you said white has a gloss finish black has a mat finish, the white is non porous so it will not warp if you paint directly on it, Black is porous it will let paint seep through and if you are building a big bit of terrain it will bow and warp, not so much so for small buildings but of a large scale build it will, Trust me on this i built a castle some years ago and i used the black and i painted it left it over night in the morning it was bowed and warped all over the place, suffice to say that day i was not a happy bunny, and also to point out the heat gun works just as good on the white foam core, on a different note you are a master of your craft you need Swan Morton knifes lol, i order direct from swan morton so and they send me free handles and blades with my orders, so next time i place an order and i get a free handle ill send it your way :) Great video mate :D
I've never had any problems with the black stuff warping but then I brace all my buildings to prevent warping in the first place. I've just cut out a thin strip of it and given it a heavy coating of grey emulsion. It's not braced so I'll check it when it dries and let you know. Thanks for the offer of the handle mate, but don't worry, half my family are doctors so they're not hard to come by, I'm just happy with my crappy GW one matey.
no problem at all, i have not had problems with black in small bits, the castle wall was just over 500mm it was the deeping wall from helms deep i was building at the time, i think it was all the GW knifes fault that you had that curved cut lol.
it warped horizontally pushing the middle out to far, it was not braced, i was using a very watery paint. it was the man at the art shop that told me that the black was porous. i do still use the black and never had a problem on any of my smaller builds, i have a few sheets of A2 i might paint one and see what happens and make a video to see.
I am sticking to foamboard since I just discovered how expensive extruded polystyrene is lol...I have learned a lot from this one...thanks! Omg you just peeled it with the heatgun! I will be peeling foamboard all week now (If it works with a hairdryer on hot lol!).
Hey there! These vids are awesome! Question for ya, though; I'm looking to make a huge castle wall (fieldstone style) with foam board, and the idea of individually carving out all the stones sounds awful - do the textued rolling pins work on foamboard foam like they do for the insulation blue foam?
Brilliant video, very informative. What techniques would you suggest to turn foam core into hills with natural contours for 2mm troops? Smooth cuts with the scalpel I guess then texture with a thin flock? Thank you. Tom
Massimiliano Ausili I tend to bounce around a bit when it comes to making tutorials, so numbering them would probably be more confusing. I actually organise all the tutorials in playlists, so start with the Back to Basics playlist, and then choose your interest by playlist after that matey. Hope that helps.
Lefties ftw!!! I'm planning on making some buildings for 1/144 Gundam Models (they range from about 5-7 inches, so like 13 cm approx). The buildings don't need much detail because of the size, and most of them will be only slightly taller than the models. Would you say that foamboard would be my best bet? I've been trying cardboard, but i'm not sure how well it would look once it was done.
I've only recently discovered your channel and am really enjoying it so far. The poly cement to cause damage and the heat gun to strip are great ideas thank you. One question if I may, how do you suggest protecting the brick texture in the foam from being dented etc? PVA spray like your flock and basing vids?
Quick question, I'm sure you've answered it in a video but I've not found it yet :) in this vid you showed the effect of model glue melting foam. I'm assuming this reaction is the same for extruded foam. I've got lots of left over model pieces that would look great used on terrain but as you also mentioned pva won't work for plastic is there a work around for this? Many thanks again.
Phil D Plastic glue will melt any sort of polystyrene mate, the only way to get pva to properly stick to plastic is to coat the plastic in something like filler first mate
Fantastic video and tips! Just subscribed to your page. Question: I'm using 1/8 inch MDF Hardboard for my base because I want the terrain piece to have longevity; would it be best to strip one side of the foamcore and glue paper side down to MDF or strip both sides of paper and glue?
Franklin G. Roberts III Not a 100% sure what you mean but unless you're planning on engraving/detailing the foam, there's no real need to remove any of the cardboard mate.
If ya dont mind me asking (I'm a totall noob at this terrain stuff) .. what are your thoughts about using foam board as a kind of framework for hirst arts block built building's?
When you glue the bricks/slabs to the wall, the foamboard will warp and so will your walls and floors unless it's seriously braced. how do I know? I'm the proud owner of a wacky warehouse hirst arts dungeon mate.
hahahaha awesome :-p the unsulating foam Im using for my hutt mansion build is about 2 inch thick, maybe that why it hasn't warped? Its to bad though ... I was thinking of making a high tech mineshaft next :(
Mate, Where abouts in UK did you find this stuff? Ive been looking on Ebay, but seems pricey compared to what you mentioned in this clip. I love your videos mate, very inspirational and Im using them to get back into modelling terrain! Thanks so much for sharing bro ;)
The thing that you think we call an X-Acto blade is what we might refer to as a box cutter or utility knife. The thing that you call a scalpel we call an X-Acto blade or hobby knife (scalpels are medical tools and much,much sharper).
Hi this is great video thanks. A better way to remove the covering is ti run a hot smoothing iron over it for a few seconds and it comes of ry easy. I've remo Ed a 4x4 sheet like this in one go. Try it.
Thanks mate. Foamboard is really good at angular stuff but when it comes to curves, especially sloped roofs which go up to a peak are a nightmare. I'd just suggest you go for stiff cardboard which you can glue and bend in place as a base for the roof and then build up the tiles in strips of cardboard. Does that help or have I got the wrong end of the handle mate?
A comprehensive guide to using foamboard to make wargames terrain yeah man Thats that the pro'ist tip EVER! I think we should all take this tip of yours and spread it about till its a hobby'sts STANDARD!!! ';..;'
I'm in America. Here, the small scalpel would be called an Exacto, after the brand, and the bigger knife would be something else. Maybe we'd call it a utility knife? Not sure.
i could use some tips on how i can paint this type of foamboard(the foamboard with the two layers of paper on both sides(got the white one)) with acryl paints and maybe you or somebody here could help me. (1.) do i need to seal it first? and if so, (2.) can i just use pva and water like you mentioned it in other videos when you talk about sealing bases/terrain? or can i just paint on it? and (3.) will it then bend if i paint it and is there anything to prevent that from happening? sorry for these beginner questions, but maybe there is a video from you which maybe explains all these questions with this kind of foamboard which i missed? p.s. iam a beginner in terrain building as you can guess from these kind of questions. i just discovered your channel and i realy like the content of your videos. i hope you/all get well through the crisis and stay healthy. sorry for my bad english. greets from germany
Thanks for the video its really useful and handy as I've started to scratch build a few piece's of w40k scenery, I will upload a few videos of how it goes :-)
Thank you for the helpful tips, I am an avid terrain builder for warhammer 40k and I'm glad to see there's still people willing to male there own terrain as opposed to buying store bought set ups
Unfortunately the hot air gun trick doesn't apply to every type of foamboard 😾 other easy tip: peel of the top layer of the paper of and sand the remains down 😸 much cleaner result than cutting.
I will let you into a little secret when removing the card from the foam go out and buy a can of swan petrol lighter fluid sprinkle on top of cardboard and gently massage in with Fingertips leave for 30 seconds to 45 seconds and the paper will pull off in one go and leaves no sticky behind and leaves a brilliant surface to work with
Great demo but can I suggest NEVER work the blade towards your hands/fingers, always work away. I have a scar on my finger from an accident in my teens, and I nearly lost my thumb through being stupid and taking the safety guard off a saw table. Remember SAFETY FIRST and you'll enjoy crafting for years to come (I'm now 62 lol)
+Steve Bailey Good advice Steve - I was just going to say the same - I have many scars on my hands from being careless with cutting tools in the past, mostly cutting towards my hands and/or putting too much pressure on the blade. Even as a professional modelmaker I still manage to cut myself every now and again by being clumsy or rushing something. Be careful with cutting tools guys!
Man, wish I had watched this a couple of days ago. Just tried making an insert for a board game and man, I've got a LOT of nasty cuts lol. It works, it just looks awful
This is why youre among my favorite terrainers. You teach us methods for basics and terrain necessities, not "this week, I make a chaotic center piece Im going to use once"...so thanks, mate.
On the half cuts: what i do is make the half cut, and then instead of bending away, i slice a 45 on the inseams, so it can be folded inward, making it appear seamless :-)
Thanks for the kind comments mate :oD
Your foamboardfu must be strong, every time I've tried that 45 technique, I've seriously messed it up mate. I just gave up on it.
There are whittling tools, and clay carving tools (very sharp) that have a 45 degree bend in the blade. I gingerly use that to push the 45 out. THERE, now you know my secret! haha
Genius! Love it!
@@TheTerrainTutor another method is used by FliteTest for their RC airplanes, they cut half or less way through one side of the paper and the foam, fold in half the other way to break the foam, and then the 45 degree is cut on the exposed edge.
not just that, but at 2:10 and at various points in the video, Josh shows you how to curve foam without making many half cuts if the half cut technique's appearance is unwanted th-cam.com/video/DRgKW__by2c/w-d-xo.html
When you give a tutorial, you really give a tutorial. I've just learned more about foam board and the cutting of it than I thought possible. I'm not even half way through the video yet. Salute....
oh you'll love the Back to Basics playlist ... let me know in a couple of weeks when you get through it ;-)
An outstanding terrain tutor! Only a great teacher can make professional techniques look easy. Great job Mel!
+mohant9m Thanks matey :-)
About to use foamboard for the first time and you came up in my research re cutting it - I learned so much more! Loved the serendipity cardboard peeling moment & the half cut curve technique has given my project a total redesign. You're a great teacher, thank you!
Thanks for sharing and your time sir. A rookie here. It's magic when something new and spontenious happens while recording...
Great and priceless tips...
One more for you : when I glue pieces together, I use what I call a reverse half cut... Meaning I remove one side of the card board and the foam underneath it, leaving just one side of the card board. After removing it, I have a small piece of cardboard (only) where I can put my glue. That way, you don't see the foam on the join, you only see the card board... The rest of the technique (pins and all) is the same...
Pascal Platteeuw Nice tip mate, thanks for sharing
Pascal Platteeuw Nice tip mate, thanks for sharing
Loved this video. I was cutting me foam wrong, but I don't plan to make those same mistakes again. I always wondered why me cuts were coming out jagged. Now I know. I always liked watching your videos.
Glad it helped you bud
A couple of minor things:
For corners, I like to plunge cut: Place the back of a #11 blade right at the corner, then push the tip straight through the foamcore. You have to be careful to make sure that you're vertical in both directions, but once the corners are done, it's just connecting the dots to finish the opening.
For people who are worried about cuts, you don't have to go to butcher's mail gloves, there are "cut-resistant gloves" available as well (we have them at work for some of our assemblers). They're more flexible and allow a better grip than mail, but they're still a bit rigid and constraining. I don't use them for hobby work (hadn't really though of it until reading the comment section here), but I might try them the next time I'm don't some serious cutting.
Another great video. I really like the fact that you explain everything in great detail in your Back to Basics videos. I'm sure some folks have taken their hard earned knowledge for granted and just intuitively understand what they're seeing when they watch terrain vids. I would definitely recommend your videos to anyone just starting out.
That was sort of the idea around the B2B series, to give a foundation knowledge in the basic materials we use to make terrain. I'm glad they're working out for you mate
Great video! As someone returning to terrain building (after 15+ years) your videos are a must!
Plus, the discovery at the end of the video made this even better. Keep it up.
Welcome back to the hobby buddy!
I am gonna begin making dioramas thanks to your teaching...i feel likee you share methods others would only offer to a paid apprentice. You taught me that I CaN do this. ty so much man. Cheers from Indiana USA
this is an incredible tutorial. no BS or fluff. 10/10
Well, every time I watch/listen here, I learn something new and useful. Thanks
I’ve just stumbled onto your channel and after seeing it I’ve been so excited to build I can barely sleep
Great video. I've learned some new things. One thing I did pick up from watching other videos is that when you don't want the foam to show in the corners, you can do a half cut on one wall a wall's width from the edge (in the case of the foam in this vid, 5 mm). Skim of the foam and you have a piece of cardboard that will cover the foam of the other wall. An added bonus to doing that is that it will give you more surface area for the glue to hold on to and make a stronger join.
Hans de Vos Rabbiting's a great technique, there's a few others as well mate ... th-cam.com/video/S_nyV1C0cYM/w-d-xo.html
Cutting at a 45 is easier - and the use of rubber cement allows you to "rub off" extra and it's not "wet" so that it doesn't discolor the paper.
This was the best video on foam core I've seen. I learned a lot from it, and I've been working with foam core for a while now.
I do have one tip. I have noticed that if foam core warps from being painted, you can usually get it to warp back to flat by painting the other side of the board. Don't know if this is a problem you've experienced, since you brace your projects. Just thought it might come in handy.
Michka Bailey Nice tip matey, not experienced it myself as like you say, I brace everything ;-)
Pins, Lego, half cuts, masking tape! These tips are brilliant mate. You are the man. I wish I'd found your vids earlier, woulda saved me some wasted foam board
Darren Whitehouse Well at least you've found them now matey, happy crafting!
Mel, Once again what an outstanding video. I sent the link to your channel to a friend of mine today and we are busy coming up with ways to make a great 40k diorama using what you've shown us so far. Have a great weekend and greetings from Brugge.
This has been so helpful. Thanks mate! you helped me from all across the world
+Raghda Haider I'll take that as a win mate
"You sot!!" 🤣😂 You are so much fun, as well as helpful. Thanks! So glad I found your channel!
Wonderful! I appreciate you sharing these techniques. I am planning to get the Foamwerks from Logan Graphics. You've shown me that the extra tools are optional. I like you videos. Lots of inspiration for my game table. Thank you!
+Perkins Dearborn Awesome, crack on mate :-)
Great stuff Mel! Just got my hands on some old pictures from work, mounted on foam board & wasn't too confident in attacking it until I'd seen this. Cheers!
Big Mek Danskull Awesome mate, hope it helped :-)
You are now officially my terrain guru!! I am learning so much from your uploads really appreciate the time and effort you put into these videos- thanks very much!
Got to say I laughed out loud with your slip of the tongue ' Sticks out like a 'thor' sum' lol classic!! :D
LOL, cheers matey
Hey Mel.Love the heat gun "live discovery "...again another btb video that will help me alot;i'm going "urban" for my next project.thx alot
Hope it helps mate
Fantastic video! Just got myself some foamboard and other stuff to start making terrain and have been loving your channel.
+Will Montgomery Have fun buddy :-)
Amazing work, I thought I had to do terrain with XPS foam (hard to find here) and forget about the foam core I just bought. Thank you
For america the dollar tree sells foam core for YUP $1 but the paper is made to peel off so you can have just the core but also works well for buildings and such
Definitely second this. The adhesive on the Dollar Store/Dollar Tree stuff is kinda weak so you don't end up with little scraggly bits of the cardboard left on there when you tear it off. Had that problem with more "expensive" foam boards. Cheap stuff is the way to go.
Great video! I've done some work with foamcore before, but its always good to get a technique refresher. I will definitely be using that trick with the heat gun in the future as well!
+Curran Egan glad they helped mate
I've got a Swann-Morton scalpel...Yay They're the best. It was a perk of working for a medical distribution company.
Love SM's, prefer a 13 myself
Great stuff Mel! Straight off the bat, a great tip about getting smooth cuts. I imagine the rest of this video will be just as invaluable! Cheers.
Glad you've found it helpful mate
Bloody brilliant again Mel
Hi Mel,
That's exactly my intent. I want to carve fishbone paving into the thin foam. I was trying to figure out weather I needed to strip the paper off both sides before gluing to the MDF, or just glue the paper side onto it.
Franklin G. Roberts III Just go for the side you're doing the paving on mate, no need to strip the other side.
Finding the out the hair dryer was cool and the rest of the video was helpful especially the part about making the curves in the foam.
Nate Niles glad you found it helpful mate
I'm so glad you found an awesome technique at the end of the video to remove the paper. Every time you sliced it with that long razor, I was on the edge of my seat worrying it might slip since you were cutting towards yourself--so scary/dangerous!
Jennifer Gwinn Don't worry, I've been around blades for a long time but thanks for your concern :-)
TheTerrainTutor It's probably because I"ve been cut a couple times pretty badly with knives hehe. I"m a bit affraid of them. I want a table saw but I can't get myself to get one because I'm sure I'll cut off a finger or two, lol!
Jennifer Gwinn Get yourself a chain-mail glove, they're pretty cheap on ebay, I used to use one when I had a summer job as a butcher :-)
im going to build a few houses out of foambord, this tutorial is just the best preparation. thanks alot
McCurryChickenWing Make sure you checking the foamboard building and ruins playlist mate, there's loads of useful info in it ;-)
Awesome stuff! I use foam board for all my terrain! Can't get enough of it!!!
Great best practices for permanent structures. Any pointers for making modular wall sections? Trying to make modular sections/corners that will stand up but break down to store flat when not in use.
That's pretty tricky as foamboard will fray over time if you're constantly pushing connectors in etc, have you considered magnets?
I usually call the bigger one a box cutter. X-acto I think of as making things more like your smaller one.
Have you ever used a rotary blade for cutting foamboard?
Great tips!
by far the best vids about terrain i have ever seen plzz dont stop what your doing great job
David Brooks thanks for the high praise matey
Only half way through and loving this video. Great tips thanks will watch more vids!
The heat gun tip is really interesting. :) Thanks for showing it. Now I'm off to check out your other videos.
glad you liked it mate, hope you enjoy my other vids, I just wish they were to your standard!
TheTerrainTutor
Have you looked at my earlier vids. ;) I recently went back to look at my first. Hmmm... Not so good. And not as good as your start for sure.
If you ever have questions about video production, feel free to ask. :)
mike@terranscapes.com
I'm no expert, but I'm always glad to help if I can.
There's hope for me yet then mate, thanks for the offer of help, I really appreciate it mate.
Really appreciate all the tips. Thanks. Just want to add that the type of mat you have will warp under a heat gun. I know you were quick with it, but for anyone else out there, thought I'd just pass that on. I speak from bitter experience.
angelicinspirations Oh my mat takes loads of abuse mate, but it's glued down so to do have to worry too much ;-)
What a great primer to using foam board! I was planning on buying pre-built scenery but this is much more fun :P
Welcome to the community terrainiac ;-D
Gave you a thumbs up for the curved thing. Almost took it away for you using your teeth on the glue needle 0_0
This was amazing, and I see a bunch more videos from you in the sidebar as I type this - thanks in advance!
Great video Mel. You had some useful tips in there for me. I may have to try and make a building this weekend.
Coolio mate, let me know how you get on!
TheTerrainTutor I posted some pics to your Facebook page. I have to say, your trick to doing windows and doors with pins and a taped up ruler worked very well.
Thanks for pointing this out. This looks like just what I need. Now just need a cup of tea and sit down for an hour.
Enjoy!
Some great tips! You're putting me to shame with your uploading schedule! ;) keep it up!
Yeah, that's only because the kids are at school at the mo mate, it'll seriously slow down at half term and you'll think I'm dead by the end of summer! Cheers mate
this is all still valid today. thank you for the content from a beginner
Really helpful video for a novice in foamboards, like me. Thank you!
Great Video a really good over view and tips and tricks of foam board, there is a difference between black and white foam board as you said white has a gloss finish black has a mat finish, the white is non porous so it will not warp if you paint directly on it, Black is porous it will let paint seep through and if you are building a big bit of terrain it will bow and warp, not so much so for small buildings but of a large scale build it will, Trust me on this i built a castle some years ago and i used the black and i painted it left it over night in the morning it was bowed and warped all over the place, suffice to say that day i was not a happy bunny, and also to point out the heat gun works just as good on the white foam core, on a different note you are a master of your craft you need Swan Morton knifes lol, i order direct from swan morton so and they send me free handles and blades with my orders, so next time i place an order and i get a free handle ill send it your way :) Great video mate :D
I've never had any problems with the black stuff warping but then I brace all my buildings to prevent warping in the first place. I've just cut out a thin strip of it and given it a heavy coating of grey emulsion. It's not braced so I'll check it when it dries and let you know. Thanks for the offer of the handle mate, but don't worry, half my family are doctors so they're not hard to come by, I'm just happy with my crappy GW one matey.
no problem at all, i have not had problems with black in small bits, the castle wall was just over 500mm it was the deeping wall from helms deep i was building at the time, i think it was all the GW knifes fault that you had that curved cut lol.
LOL
Was the wall braced? It what way did it warp mate? Just curious, I'm trying to picture it in my mind
it warped horizontally pushing the middle out to far, it was not braced, i was using a very watery paint. it was the man at the art shop that told me that the black was porous. i do still use the black and never had a problem on any of my smaller builds, i have a few sheets of A2 i might paint one and see what happens and make a video to see.
Give it a go mate, you shouldn't have any problems with small builds
Another really great vid. Thanks very much
Great video!! I subscribed. Hello from Panamá.
New subscriber, loving your videos Mel :)
I am sticking to foamboard since I just discovered how expensive extruded polystyrene is lol...I have learned a lot from this one...thanks! Omg you just peeled it with the heatgun! I will be peeling foamboard all week now (If it works with a hairdryer on hot lol!).
ridiculously useful :) I have hours of watching to go as you so many great vids
Neil Young Glad you're finding them helpful matey :-)
Hey there! These vids are awesome! Question for ya, though; I'm looking to make a huge castle wall (fieldstone style) with foam board, and the idea of individually carving out all the stones sounds awful - do the textued rolling pins work on foamboard foam like they do for the insulation blue foam?
If you take the cardboard off first, otherwise, look for either 5 or 10mm foam sheets (panel systems ltd)
Great tutorial and an awesome channel.
Thanks mate
Brilliant video, very informative.
What techniques would you suggest to turn foam core into hills with natural contours for 2mm troops? Smooth cuts with the scalpel I guess then texture with a thin flock?
Thank you.
Tom
Your tutorials are simply awesome. It would be very useful is you can number them. So i can follow from the first to the complete building!
Massimiliano Ausili I tend to bounce around a bit when it comes to making tutorials, so numbering them would probably be more confusing. I actually organise all the tutorials in playlists, so start with the Back to Basics playlist, and then choose your interest by playlist after that matey. Hope that helps.
Sure, didn't realize you were so ordered! Great job again keep on like this!
Lefties ftw!!! I'm planning on making some buildings for 1/144 Gundam Models (they range from about 5-7 inches, so like 13 cm approx). The buildings don't need much detail because of the size, and most of them will be only slightly taller than the models. Would you say that foamboard would be my best bet? I've been trying cardboard, but i'm not sure how well it would look once it was done.
+ARC command Defo go for foamboard mate, it'll work a treat!
TheTerrainTutor Thx for the help, I'll be sure to try it!
+TheTerrainTutor Great tutorials....biggest problem is sourcing quality foamboard 50MMS ,where do you get yours?...cheers
Jackie Smith
Hindleys :-)
Unbelievable amount of priceless tips Mel, Brilliant... Absolutely brilliant :-)
Terry Bass I spent some serious time playing with foamboard matey
I've only recently discovered your channel and am really enjoying it so far. The poly cement to cause damage and the heat gun to strip are great ideas thank you. One question if I may, how do you suggest protecting the brick texture in the foam from being dented etc? PVA spray like your flock and basing vids?
Thanks mate, yeah, exactly that, 50/50 spray, undercoat and a base coat is pretty good at protecting that foam from the majority of accidental damage.
Great vid man and thank you for passing on the knowledge.
Helghast73 Thanks mate, I'm just doing what I can, glad you're finding it helpful
Quick question, I'm sure you've answered it in a video but I've not found it yet :) in this vid you showed the effect of model glue melting foam. I'm assuming this reaction is the same for extruded foam. I've got lots of left over model pieces that would look great used on terrain but as you also mentioned pva won't work for plastic is there a work around for this? Many thanks again.
Phil D Plastic glue will melt any sort of polystyrene mate, the only way to get pva to properly stick to plastic is to coat the plastic in something like filler first mate
My mind is blown lol. I been struggling with foam board and now u saved me.
Wow, I'll never separate paper from foam board a different way again!
Some fantastic tips! Thank you very much.
Patrick boyle No worries mate ;-)
How young and fresh faced Mel looks - and it is only three years ago! Terrain is a harsh mistress.
Isn't it just
Fantastic video and tips! Just subscribed to your page.
Question: I'm using 1/8 inch MDF Hardboard for my base because I want the terrain piece to have longevity; would it be best to strip one side of the foamcore and glue paper side down to MDF or strip both sides of paper and glue?
Franklin G. Roberts III Not a 100% sure what you mean but unless you're planning on engraving/detailing the foam, there's no real need to remove any of the cardboard mate.
If ya dont mind me asking (I'm a totall noob at this terrain stuff) .. what are your thoughts about using foam board as a kind of framework for hirst arts block built building's?
When you glue the bricks/slabs to the wall, the foamboard will warp and so will your walls and floors unless it's seriously braced. how do I know? I'm the proud owner of a wacky warehouse hirst arts dungeon mate.
hahahaha awesome :-p the unsulating foam Im using for my hutt mansion build is about 2 inch thick, maybe that why it hasn't warped?
Its to bad though ... I was thinking of making a high tech mineshaft next :(
Go with cork boards mate ;o)
Mate, Where abouts in UK did you find this stuff? Ive been looking on Ebay, but seems pricey compared to what you mentioned in this clip. I love your videos mate, very inspirational and Im using them to get back into modelling terrain! Thanks so much for sharing bro ;)
Siônmarc Simpson Virtually all art shops sell it, as does 'The Range' and failing those, there's Hindleys online mate
The thing that you think we call an X-Acto blade is what we might refer to as a box cutter or utility knife. The thing that you call a scalpel we call an X-Acto blade or hobby knife (scalpels are medical tools and much,much sharper).
Ah, thanks for clearing that up mate. Cheers
Hi this is great video thanks. A better way to remove the covering is ti run a hot smoothing iron over it for a few seconds and it comes of ry easy. I've remo Ed a 4x4 sheet like this in one go. Try it.
Great vid mel thanks for sharing
I have a request
I always struggle with peaked roofs any tips or pointers?
Thanks mate. Foamboard is really good at angular stuff but when it comes to curves, especially sloped roofs which go up to a peak are a nightmare. I'd just suggest you go for stiff cardboard which you can glue and bend in place as a base for the roof and then build up the tiles in strips of cardboard. Does that help or have I got the wrong end of the handle mate?
A comprehensive guide to using foamboard to make wargames terrain yeah man Thats that the pro'ist tip EVER!
I think we should all take this tip of yours and spread it about till its a hobby'sts STANDARD!!! ';..;'
Share it matey, share away :oD
Excellent 👍
How long would you leave the pva to dry for, before removing pins Mel?
Terry Bass I always leave it overnight mate
Nice video, I learned quite a bit!
Glad you found it useful mate :oD
New to this thank u so much for the easy to follow vids
Will removing both paper skins cut down or prevent the foam core from warping?
Abraham Marquez Theoretically, although you'd lose stability and it's probably be easier just to buy 5mm foam mate
Do you ever bevel foamboard bases? I haven't figured out how to without the ripping.
Fantastic video! You have a new subscriber.
Ianosauruscanadensis Awesome, welcome aboard matey :-)
how are u gonna cut curve when ur blade is that flat?? any special technic to cut curve on foam board?
+yeung jasper Get a circular cutter or angle your blade at a steep angle so the width of the blade going through the foam is relatively small mate
Use something really sharp like a scalpel. And a steep angle like +TheTerrainTutor says.
I'm in America. Here, the small scalpel would be called an Exacto, after the brand, and the bigger knife would be something else. Maybe we'd call it a utility knife? Not sure.
Mel, what material and size is your cutting board mate?
Terry Bass it's an A2 selfhealing cutting mat mate
TheTerrainTutor Self healing explains why I asked :-) Cheers mate, that's what I want
Is this similar to plasticard?
No, its polystyrene with a cardboard cover mate
i could use some tips on how i can paint this type of foamboard(the foamboard with the two layers of paper on both sides(got the white one)) with acryl paints and maybe you or somebody here could help me. (1.) do i need to seal it first? and if so, (2.) can i just use pva and water like you mentioned it in other videos when you talk about sealing bases/terrain? or can i just paint on it? and (3.) will it then bend if i paint it and is there anything to prevent that from happening? sorry for these beginner questions, but maybe there is a video from you which maybe explains all these questions with this kind of foamboard which i missed? p.s. iam a beginner in terrain building as you can guess from these kind of questions. i just discovered your channel and i realy like the content of your videos. i hope you/all get well through the crisis and stay healthy. sorry for my bad english. greets from germany
Thanks for the video its really useful and handy as I've started to scratch build a few piece's of w40k scenery, I will upload a few videos of how it goes :-)
I'll look forward to seeing them mate, I'm in the process of filming right now, so hopefully you won't have to wait long.
how thick is your foam bord sorry if it says in video
5mm mate
What is the filler he mentions and where do I get it?
The man's a genius
Wow great video! Thanks for sharing these tips. Insta-subscribe!
Welcome aboard buddy!
Good stuff man
Cheers mate
Thank you for the helpful tips, I am an avid terrain builder for warhammer 40k and I'm glad to see there's still people willing to male there own terrain as opposed to buying store bought set ups
Unfortunately the hot air gun trick doesn't apply to every type of foamboard 😾 other easy tip: peel of the top layer of the paper of and sand the remains down 😸 much cleaner result than cutting.
I will let you into a little secret when removing the card from the foam go out and buy a can of swan petrol lighter fluid sprinkle on top of cardboard and gently massage in with Fingertips leave for 30 seconds to 45 seconds and the paper will pull off in one go and leaves no sticky behind and leaves a brilliant surface to work with
Also forgot to mention use a pencil not a toothpick to make your lines preferably HB or B1 and not too Sharp
Great demo but can I suggest NEVER work the blade towards your hands/fingers, always work away. I have a scar on my finger from an accident in my teens, and I nearly lost my thumb through being stupid and taking the safety guard off a saw table. Remember SAFETY FIRST and you'll enjoy crafting for years to come (I'm now 62 lol)
+Steve Bailey Good advice Steve - I was just going to say the same - I have many scars on my hands from being careless with cutting tools in the past, mostly cutting towards my hands and/or putting too much pressure on the blade. Even as a professional modelmaker I still manage to cut myself every now and again by being clumsy or rushing something. Be careful with cutting tools guys!
Put on your 3D glasses at 14:25. ;-)
Schensue LOL, it is a bit 3D isn't it :-)
Man, wish I had watched this a couple of days ago. Just tried making an insert for a board game and man, I've got a LOT of nasty cuts lol. It works, it just looks awful
always the way mate
sorry sir but it's wrong mode to build the house
15:33, nice
Raffaele Passarelli Cheers mate