Here is the part that I get directly from my wholesaler: pool360.poolcorp.com/productlandingpage/tabid/88/productid/58344/sename/2-fitting-extender/language/en-us/default.aspx Here it is on an online retiail store. Made by Waterway. You can probably find it cheaper if you search - www.poolzoom.com/2-fitting-extender-63741.html
Thanks for the awesome info. Your video is clear and concise, plus you give alternatives and explanations on the repairs. Kudos on the parts list. Keep up the good work!
Great video. I had never heard of Plasto-Joint Stick. I've tried teflon tape and silicone to fix a pump discharge leak but it still leaked. Will this product harden and make it impossible to unscrew the threaded fitting screwed in the pump or is it possible to unscrew it if required later?
Man, I wish I could hire you to look after my pool! My equipment all has flex hoses and threaded unions so the equipment can be disconnected easily for repairs, etc. This is how it was originally done and I'm wondering if it should all be changed to PVC? Also, I have leak on the hose on top of the pump that leads to the filter. I put a new clamp on it with teflon tape but still leaking. I may take a threaded PVC coupling and redo the connection with PVC adhesive like you did. Thanks for the great vids!
I have a high temp union at the discharge part since that's where the most of the heat is during a dry run, but is the hi temp union necessary at the front inlet part? I know it's best advised to use it just to be safe but I have the thick grey one there for it instead of the cheap schedule 40 white pvc one
I have a leak at the male adapter on one of my accounts. Have you ever heard of leak-b gone? Do you think it would work on a male adapter leak. I've never had to fix a leak on the plumbing on my pools before and was wondering if this would work... What do you think.
I have replaced my threaded part about three times now because it keeps leaking from the thread. This last time I bought the plasto joint stick, and sure enough it is still leaking through those threads. I used a lot of that joint stick. Do you have any ideas on what I could do to fix this? It's a new strainer part so there is no cracks or anything.
It could be the threaded part got melted when the pump over heated. I've had pumps on my route that just leaked no matter how often I replaced the pipe. What type of pump do you have, brand?
It's a Hayward super ll pump. I just tried again. I cleaned the threads inside the housing really good. They didn't feel melted or damaged. This time I put some teflon tape tightly around the new threads, then I REALLY coated the threads with plasto joint. If it leaks this time I'm just gonna have my home warranty company fix it. Something must be wrong with the threads if it leaks this time. I'll wait until tomorrow to turn it on again. Thanks for getting back to me.
Super II - they tend to melt. You wouldn't be able to see it with the naked eye, but even a small amount of warping will cause the top to leak. I've had them even warp around the housing gasket area. Worst case you can order this part for $160.00 - Hayward SPX3020AA Housing, Strainer Super II 2in.
So after a lot of research I think I've figure it out. The male nipple that goes into the casing needs to be a schedule 80 pipe. The schedule 40 that I've been using is a fraction too spall of threads. Is that what you use? My super 2 Hayward says it needs a schedule 80 male threaded end.
What size is that fitting extender that you're using in this video?? I need to cut in a similar spot where there is an elbow but having a hard time finding a fitting extender that fits around the elbow.
Thanks for the positive feedback. You can use a variety of PVC Cement brands that you can find at your hardware store. Most people use the Blue color PVC cement. The primer is actually the same exact ingredients that you would find in the PVC Cement (one plumber I know said it is a vast conspiracy by the manufacturers to make a double sale). The primer does help by giving the area a light coating and removing some glaze from the PVC pipe. It also helps as a guide so you know where to apply the PVC cement. I did film a video using Primer but am still editing it. Hope that helps.
It depends - I will charge for all the pipes with a mark-up, then $65.00 an hour. So roughly $85.00-95.00 depending on how much pipe needs to be replaced.
+Swimming Pool Tips, Reviews & How To -MrDgvb1 how old do you have to be to work at your job cuz maybe I can get a jot were you work at is it in Los Angeles California?
Thanks ! Your videos always give me the insights to do a job correctly. Appreciate it
Here is the part that I get directly from my wholesaler: pool360.poolcorp.com/productlandingpage/tabid/88/productid/58344/sename/2-fitting-extender/language/en-us/default.aspx
Here it is on an online retiail store. Made by Waterway. You can probably find it cheaper if you search - www.poolzoom.com/2-fitting-extender-63741.html
Thanks for the awesome info. Your video is clear and concise, plus you give alternatives and explanations on the repairs. Kudos on the parts list. Keep up the good work!
Sensei! Thank you ,once more. May you continue helping and teaching others. You too COOL!. God bless.
you have saved me so much time and money. thanks a million!'
Nice. Why not put a union joint in above the pump? Seems that will ultimately have to be replaced.
Yeah, I probably should have done that. 👍
Great video. I had never heard of Plasto-Joint Stick. I've tried teflon tape and silicone to fix a pump discharge leak but it still leaked. Will this product harden and make it impossible to unscrew the threaded fitting screwed in the pump or is it possible to unscrew it if required later?
Will stay very paste like over time. So no issues. 👍
@@SPL Great thanks. Will try it ASAP!
Where do you find the fitting extender in that size? Is that a 2.5 to 2 size? I can't find it anywhere
If it is 3 ft deep in the shallow end I am getting calculating it at 9,600 gallons. 30 x 9 x 4.75 (avg depth) x 7.48 gallons = 9,593
Man, I wish I could hire you to look after my pool! My equipment all has flex hoses and threaded unions so the equipment can be disconnected easily for repairs, etc. This is how it was originally done and I'm wondering if it should all be changed to PVC? Also, I have leak on the hose on top of the pump that leads to the filter. I put a new clamp on it with teflon tape but still leaking.
I may take a threaded PVC coupling and redo the connection with PVC adhesive like you did. Thanks for the great vids!
Thanks! I would change over to standard PVC - you can still add unions if you like but for any pipes above the ground standard PVC is the way to go.
What did you put on the male thread instead of teflon tape? I have a small leak on that male threat from the pump.
It's called JointStik. Very good at sealing the threads
I have a high temp union at the discharge part since that's where the most of the heat is during a dry run, but is the hi temp union necessary at the front inlet part? I know it's best advised to use it just to be safe but I have the thick grey one there for it instead of the cheap schedule 40 white pvc one
The top is more critical in my opinion.
Would this cause a lost of PSI ? I have check my whole pool this is the only place I have water leaking.
I have a leak at the male adapter on one of my accounts. Have you ever heard of leak-b gone? Do you think it would work on a male adapter leak. I've never had to fix a leak on the plumbing on my pools before and was wondering if this would work... What do you think.
I have replaced my threaded part about three times now because it keeps leaking from the thread. This last time I bought the plasto joint stick, and sure enough it is still leaking through those threads. I used a lot of that joint stick. Do you have any ideas on what I could do to fix this? It's a new strainer part so there is no cracks or anything.
It could be the threaded part got melted when the pump over heated. I've had pumps on my route that just leaked no matter how often I replaced the pipe. What type of pump do you have, brand?
It's a Hayward super ll pump. I just tried again. I cleaned the threads inside the housing really good. They didn't feel melted or damaged. This time I put some teflon tape tightly around the new threads, then I REALLY coated the threads with plasto joint. If it leaks this time I'm just gonna have my home warranty company fix it. Something must be wrong with the threads if it leaks this time. I'll wait until tomorrow to turn it on again. Thanks for getting back to me.
Super II - they tend to melt. You wouldn't be able to see it with the naked eye, but even a small amount of warping will cause the top to leak. I've had them even warp around the housing gasket area. Worst case you can order this part for $160.00 - Hayward SPX3020AA Housing, Strainer Super II 2in.
Ok that's probably it then. My home warranty is $100 so I'll just call them out and let them replace it. Thanks a lot for your help.
So after a lot of research I think I've figure it out. The male nipple that goes into the casing needs to be a schedule 80 pipe. The schedule 40 that I've been using is a fraction too spall of threads. Is that what you use? My super 2 Hayward says it needs a schedule 80 male threaded end.
Hey man we’re did you get that pvc fitting extender? I’m looking for a 2”1/2” one and can’t find one anywhere for a suction leak
Inyopools.com has them. You can check on their site.
Where is the list of all the parts? I can't find it in your comments.
What size is that fitting extender that you're using in this video?? I need to cut in a similar spot where there is an elbow but having a hard time finding a fitting extender that fits around the elbow.
It's a 2" fitting extender. It will fit over an elbow like in the video. I think there is a link to one in the video description.
👍👍👍video! ...I learned a lot! TY!
are you in new york?
What size is that fitting extender on both ends??
It fits over a 2" PVC pipe fitting. Not 100% sure.
Is there a reason why you paint the pipes, other than cosmetic? Thank you.
+Chris Hansen In some cases it helps protect it from the suns UV rays if the pipes are in the Sun all day. Other than that just cosmetic.
Great video I was wondering if you can use regular pvc cement for a job like this with primer? Also what do you use to paint pvc pipes?
Thanks for the positive feedback. You can use a variety of PVC Cement brands that you can find at your hardware store. Most people use the Blue color PVC cement. The primer is actually the same exact ingredients that you would find in the PVC Cement (one plumber I know said it is a vast conspiracy by the manufacturers to make a double sale). The primer does help by giving the area a light coating and removing some glaze from the PVC pipe. It also helps as a guide so you know where to apply the PVC cement. I did film a video using Primer but am still editing it. Hope that helps.
Hi! What is the name of the high-heat pvc? Thanks!
Google this: 2" x 12" PVC Nipple, Pipe Schedule 80, Gray
Thank you!
MrBrettsal usually 6yfc
How much do you charge for what you did in the video?
It depends - I will charge for all the pipes with a mark-up, then $65.00 an hour. So roughly $85.00-95.00 depending on how much pipe needs to be replaced.
+Swimming Pool Tips, Reviews & How To -MrDgvb1 how old do you have to be to work at your job cuz maybe I can get a jot were you work at is it in Los Angeles California?
Thanks
Always turn a little
Ima bout to make more money
nice hat no really nice hat