Tool links below. ☑ Attention all Drywall enthusiasts! Introducing the Drywall Academy, your ultimate online destination for mastering the art of Drywall. Whether you're a complete beginner or a seasoned professional, our comprehensive courses cater to all skill levels. At The Drywall Academy (drywallacademy.com), we believe that knowledge is the key to success. That's why we are meticulously curating a vast collection of courses, featuring hundreds of lessons, covering everything from the fundamentals to advanced Drywall business building skills, texture application, texture matching, and much more. Founded by Guy Purcella (That Kilted Guy on TH-cam) with 40 years of experience. With our easy-to-follow text and video lessons and practical demonstrations, you'll gain the confidence and expertise needed to tackle any Drywall project with ease, less frustration and a better quality job. Don't miss out on this golden opportunity to level up your Drywall skills. Join the Drywall Academy today and unlock your true potential in the world of Drywall. Visit drywallacademy.com now and embark on a journey towards mastery! 🚀 And if you are confused about which drywall tools and materials you need, pick up my Drywall Tools and Materials book on Amazon at: amzn.to/3T4eEZg Or for a signed or Spiral bound version visit www.ThatKiltedGuyStore.com Watch this Playlist called Taping & Mudding Drywall School NEXT- th-cam.com/play/PLCrazHylAOEndyM-LGT6PtbGfIYD5uiy-.html ☑ Get my 56 page Free eBook "Understanding Drywall Tools and Materials" at www.DrywallToolsBook.info ⭐⭐ ⭐ Please Visit my sponsors below, they help me afford to put out these videos ⭐⭐⭐ ☑ DO YOU VALUE YOUR INTERNET PRIVACY? I do. You can surf anonomously with Surfshark- geni.us/getsurfshark ☑ Protect your home or business with Simplisafe, we love it- share.simplisafe.com/x/qobGJE ⭐ MY DRYWALL TRAINING BOOKS FOR SALE at www.ThatKiltedGuyStore.com ⭐ ☑ WEBSITE INFO -You can find a lot of bonus information on our website at: www.thatkiltedguy.com 🛒🛒🛒 SHOPPING LINKS 🛒🛒🛒 - - - - - - (we earn 3-5% on these sales, but these are tools I recommend thank you) - - - - - - ☑ LEVEL5 Drywall TOOLS (Financing Available) 🟢 For a 10"/12" Flat Box & Pump combo set - geni.us/FlatBoxCombo 🟢 For the entire line of Level5 Drywall Tools- geni.us/o9r9vK6 🟢 A good all around Mud pan and knife set- geni.us/ize6U 🟢 For a 4 bladed mud mixer like mine-geni.us/FsjWx 🟢 For Full sets of Automatic Taping Tools- geni.us/Adlj 🟢 24" Metal Skim coating blade (Plus other sizes) - geni.us/XFCZH ☑ Miscellaneous Drywall Tools 🟢 Radius drywall Sander, great for all- geni.us/Radiussander 🟢 Affordable Texture sprayer hopper that I USE - geni.us/Hopper 🟢 The BEST Knockdown Knife - geni.us/KDKnife 🟢 Vevor Vacuum Drywall Sander - s.vevor.com/bfQtGq 🟢 For our full drywall tools store with my suggestions- www.amazon.com/shop/thatkiltedguydiyhomeimprovement ☑ Miscellaneous Tools 🟢 The BEST SIMPLE Stud Finder I've Ever used- geni.us/FranklinStudFinder 🟢 A nice hard case for the stud finder - geni.us/FranklinCase ☑ Miscellaneous supplies 🟢 Guardz torn paper sealer. Stops Torn Brown Paper from bubbling - geni.us/Gardz DISCLAIMER : That Kilted Guy Video Productions LLC, cannot guarantee against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information. We assume no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this information at your own risk. No information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result, or any obligation for future assistance. Watching the video does not form a professional relationship or constitute receiving professional advice.
I have ALWAYS had issues with the "band" around the perimeter of a match over painted texture and never knew why. Thank you so much for explaining the issue and showing why staying in the patch area is so important. You rock, sir!
very good job on the matching. when i blend further out from the patch, i spray very lightly, let dry a few minutes, then gently blade it. i also primer new texture so as to not have the new paint show a different sheen on the textured area. i like your videos, and i've been doing this 26 yrs, and i always like to see how others do their work because i'm willing to learn something new.
Really appreciate your videos, I've watched several of them. It's very helpful how you talk about and show the 'little tricks' you've learned from all your experience. There are so many videos on how to tape/mud new drywall, but most DIYers aren't doing new construction. Your videos have helped me tremendously.
Saving my butt right now last two days. Slick work is the specialty and can Ny texture stomp even but man patching and matching spray- easier to come back today and do it again. Appreciate the breakdowns
As much as I would like to think I never have to worry about this, I'm assuming as I purchase more properties and do repairs myself that I will probably encounter this problem with drywall repairs. Really great information. Thank you!
DAILY VIEWER QUESTION- Who here has ever tried to match knockdown texture, or who MIGHT be needing to do this? Have you ever had the smeary fail? Leave a comment below with the hashtag #DoItRight And if you need any of the tools in these videos, Check out our store for great advice and some tool lists I put together @t
#DoItRight I experienced smearing on a job that I am finishing up. I was able to clean up my mess and respray with better success, and am now at the painting stages getting ready to wrap it up. Tonight, I decided to check your library of videos to see what you offer on this topic and discovered this video which is helping me make sense of the do's and don'ts and how comes. Today I received a hopper that you recommended in another video and plan to practice on scrap pieces of drywall. I also joined your community of patrons and am subscribed to your channel. Thanks for your great videos!
Loving your videos. I've been binge watching quite a few of your videos and have subscribed. I am preparing to do some DIY projects around the house and appreciate your very detailed instructions. Your experience is invaluable and much appreciated, will be supporting through your PayPal soon. Thanks again. 😊
Diana, thank you so much. I knew there was a need for videos 📽 that taught in more detail and you guys are confirming this and I love it! Don't hesitate to ask any questions you have about a video as I'm glad to help if I can. Take care and good luck on your projects. 😎😀
Great video. My method is a lot more involved but I've never been satisfied with the result I get when I use my hopper to spray a repair. The density of the texture at the edges is always different than the rest of the wall/ceiling even if I do a star like repair where I break up the shape so it doesn't catch the eye. I can see it even if the customer cannot. I've finally got it down but it's not a money maker. I can't in good faith charge as much as the time it takes is worth. If it's a lot or repair (cracked joints or a big area) I'll skim and respray. The cost winds up being roughly the same and it's a lot easier plus it makes the repair(s) truly invisible.
Try my sponge technique. I’m about to post a video about it again as I just repaired 13 cracks on the walls in a home with knock down and matched them all and blended them all perfectly using the sponge technique. Plus it really helps if you come back the next day and lightly sand the edges to get them to blend in better. I’m going to post a Shorts video real soon showing that technique.
Just knock-down textured using your videos! Thanks! Is there a tip to matching the paint and texture if it's semi-gloss? I thought I remembered you mentioning that in an earlier video. Thanks so much!! You're the best.
The way I handle repairs is to prime the repair area, let it dry thoroughly according to the label directions. Then paint just the repair extending it out slightly and let that dry four hours. Then you need to paint the whole wall in order for it to not show.
I’m doing a pretty big repair right now the tape and float went well but I’m really concerned about the knockdown. I’m concerned it’s going to look like garbage it just isn’t the same as the rest of the wall. I used my hopper and it didn’t shoot big enough globs so I got smaller knockdowns as where the surrounding areas are bigger, now I’m contemplating redoing it this time with an actual texture rig so I can shoot bigger globs
Just go on TH-cam and search for, knock down texture that kilted guy Hey I really rely on the support of my viewers to put these videos out and answer your questions. One easy way is to become a member of my TH-cam channel. You’ll get priority replies to your questions, bonus content and more. Here’s the link to join my TH-cam membership. m.th-cam.com/users/sponsor_channel/UCSinsqowcKxmSaKkx3W9_0w?noapp=1
I had that happen but it was pretty easy to fix by just cleaning off the smeared part over the painted, and therefore already textured area, with a damp sponge
Hi I Recently bought a home that was Built in nineteen forty five and has the ugliest knock down texture and I don't want it anymore. There is lead paint and I was considering just skim coating it and making a flat surface. What is your opinion on this question? Mark I can send you a picture of that would help.
I’ve done that a lot. Watch the video below. But if it has lead paint I would avoid sanding it other than a really quick brush to knock off the nibs. But safer would be to scrape it with a 10 inch knife or something. And then put a bonding primer on it and mud over that. th-cam.com/video/4T6x7wiP-aA/w-d-xo.html Hey I really rely on the support of my viewers to put these videos out and answer your questions. One easy way is to become a member of my TH-cam channel. You’ll get priority replies to your questions, bonus content and more. Here’s the link to join my TH-cam membership. m.th-cam.com/users/sponsor_channel/UCSinsqowcKxmSaKkx3W9_0w?noapp=1
What would happen if you painted the repair before texturing? Would all the texture set up at the same time, thus being more consistent or am I overcomplicating this?
It usually takes 2 coats to even out the porosity, but it should make it set up evenly, although VERY slowly unless it's hot and dry. I've had it take 30 minutes to set up on paint before. So I just spray very accurately. Hope that helped, and thanks for being a subscriber, Guy
What about priming the patches before spraying texture? I’m curious if it would help stop the texture from knocking down differently along the edges of the patch. This is a problem more so across gloss paint, because the raw drywall mud wicks moisture faster than the painted surface.
I knocked down my kitchen ceiling, and it went well. I just read that it's not recommended to use USG Topping for texture! Uh oh, why not? Also, is it a valid concern that rolling the dried knock down with primer can "melt' the knock down, or take the sharp edges off?
Toppings not ideal for texture because it has very little adhesive in it but it should be fine. As far as rolling the texture, that’s not going to soften it. The thickness of the paint and the way it flows over the edges will soften it after it’s been painted multiple times.
@@ThatKiltedGuyDIY Thank you sir! Last question (I think): Is 24 hours sufficient before priming the knock down, and painting? I'm almost there, and don't want to screw it up. Lol
I tell my customers that in dryer climate and warmer air, that 24 hours is usually enough but look at all of your texture and if you see any that still not white, then it’s not dry. If you put a fan in the area 24 hours is plenty. If you appreciate our help with your project and would like to support our channel, please consider joining our TH-cam membership for as little as three dollars per month. You can join by clicking the join button beside the subscribe button on any of our videos. Thank you
@@ThatKiltedGuyDIY I'm in So Cal. It's been 20% humidity, and in the 70's. We really need some rain. I think the knock down is dry, but I think this stuff dries to yellow - probably another bad reason to use it for knock down. Ugh. After I finish my project, I probably won't do drywall for quite some time, so a membership is not really for me. But, I'll see what I can buy, or donate something when I can sit down and take a breath. Your videos have been really helpful, so I hope to help.
Maybe I didn't apply enough lockdown texture on the first pass. Can addition be added after the first application has dried in places that look too sparse?
Hi , I do have a job that involve soothing couple of walls , the issue is those walls are stucco walls just like the outside part of the house , but the those walls are inside the house, can we mud them using hot mud and all purpose mud?
I've never done that exact thing, but it should work fine. You might test a small area and let it dry to ensure the plaster doesn't react negatively to the hot mud. I think the hot mud will stick a little better, so use that on the first coat, then the lightweight all purpose over that, then sand it smooth.
You're welcome. Glad I could help. Our information is always free, but if you would like to support our efforts to put out better and better quality content you can consider a one time tip via PayPal at paypal.me/ThatKiltedGuyVideos?locale.x=en_US Or a small monthly donation by joining our community on Patreon at www.patreon.com/thatkiltedguy
Hey there mr kilted guy where were you about a week ago? I got one of my rooms with some of that texture and I didn’t know about waiting till all the moisture got off and I used one of the metal knife and all of the paint came off with the texture leaving only my walls down to bare and I guess to the basic drywall, it’s original state and now I’m not sure what to do since I payed 150 for it just to have the whole destroyed what are your suggestions to do now? How do I begin to do? Start from fresh is all just drywall aahhh!!!! My frustration Sinks in as I type this. Thanks.
Hello, and sorry to hear that. 🙁 For a problem like this, it's a bit much for here so I would refer you to our advice page at: www.thatkiltedguy.com/advice-page
As a professional doing nothing but repairs sometimes we don’t have an extra hour to watch primer dry so that’s why I showed this. But yes priming will help it dry closer to the paint time but it’s still more absorbent than semi gloss in bathrooms and such
@@ThatKiltedGuyDIY right , I’ve used flat primer in my patches and it takes literally 20-25 minutes to dry but I guess it depends on the amount of patches you’re working on . If is just one then yes , it’s better to just wait on the texture to dry . Thanks man
Sorry to hear that. Matching knock down? Matching texture takes a lot of practice. I had to redo my very first one. And others took a lot of practice while others came out ok but not great.
Did you watch my video where I show how to adjust all the variables when spraying knock down? It's at Spraying Knock Down Texture. Learn the secrets only PROS know using this $30 Tool th-cam.com/video/eKkDBGHCbJo/w-d-xo.html It might help.
I ended up matching that heavy knockdown perfect after I ditched the magic trowel for an acrylic trowel. I ended having to wait almost an hour before knocking down for it to come out the same.
If it sets up real quick it's due to one or more of the following- Low humidity in the air, a porous surface, high room temps, higher airflow in the room etc. If you really want to slow it down, prime the surface first, as it can double or more you working time since it makes the surface less porous. Hope that helps. If you find our assistance with your projects helpful, I hope you'll consider supporting our channel by making a one time donation in any amount at: paypal.me/ThatKiltedGuyVideos?locale.x=en_US
Tool links below. ☑ Attention all Drywall enthusiasts! Introducing the Drywall Academy, your ultimate online destination for mastering the art of Drywall. Whether you're a complete beginner or a seasoned professional, our comprehensive courses cater to all skill levels.
At The Drywall Academy (drywallacademy.com), we believe that knowledge is the key to success. That's why we are meticulously curating a vast collection of courses, featuring hundreds of lessons, covering everything from the fundamentals to advanced Drywall business building skills, texture application, texture matching, and much more.
Founded by Guy Purcella (That Kilted Guy on TH-cam) with 40 years of experience. With our easy-to-follow text and video lessons and practical demonstrations, you'll gain the confidence and expertise needed to tackle any Drywall project with ease, less frustration and a better quality job.
Don't miss out on this golden opportunity to level up your Drywall skills. Join the Drywall Academy today and unlock your true potential in the world of Drywall. Visit drywallacademy.com now and embark on a journey towards mastery! 🚀
And if you are confused about which drywall tools and materials you need, pick up my Drywall
Tools and Materials book on Amazon at: amzn.to/3T4eEZg
Or for a signed or Spiral bound version visit www.ThatKiltedGuyStore.com
Watch this Playlist called Taping & Mudding Drywall School NEXT- th-cam.com/play/PLCrazHylAOEndyM-LGT6PtbGfIYD5uiy-.html
☑ Get my 56 page Free eBook "Understanding Drywall Tools and Materials" at www.DrywallToolsBook.info
⭐⭐ ⭐ Please Visit my sponsors below, they help me afford to put out these videos ⭐⭐⭐
☑ DO YOU VALUE YOUR INTERNET PRIVACY? I do. You can surf anonomously with Surfshark- geni.us/getsurfshark
☑ Protect your home or business with Simplisafe, we love it- share.simplisafe.com/x/qobGJE
⭐ MY DRYWALL TRAINING BOOKS FOR SALE at www.ThatKiltedGuyStore.com ⭐
☑ WEBSITE INFO -You can find a lot of bonus information on our website at: www.thatkiltedguy.com
🛒🛒🛒 SHOPPING LINKS 🛒🛒🛒
- - - - - - (we earn 3-5% on these sales, but these are tools I recommend thank you) - - - - - -
☑ LEVEL5 Drywall TOOLS (Financing Available)
🟢 For a 10"/12" Flat Box & Pump combo set - geni.us/FlatBoxCombo
🟢 For the entire line of Level5 Drywall Tools- geni.us/o9r9vK6
🟢 A good all around Mud pan and knife set- geni.us/ize6U
🟢 For a 4 bladed mud mixer like mine-geni.us/FsjWx
🟢 For Full sets of Automatic Taping Tools- geni.us/Adlj
🟢 24" Metal Skim coating blade (Plus other sizes) - geni.us/XFCZH
☑ Miscellaneous Drywall Tools
🟢 Radius drywall Sander, great for all- geni.us/Radiussander
🟢 Affordable Texture sprayer hopper that I USE - geni.us/Hopper
🟢 The BEST Knockdown Knife - geni.us/KDKnife
🟢 Vevor Vacuum Drywall Sander - s.vevor.com/bfQtGq
🟢 For our full drywall tools store with my suggestions- www.amazon.com/shop/thatkiltedguydiyhomeimprovement
☑ Miscellaneous Tools
🟢 The BEST SIMPLE Stud Finder I've Ever used- geni.us/FranklinStudFinder
🟢 A nice hard case for the stud finder - geni.us/FranklinCase
☑ Miscellaneous supplies
🟢 Guardz torn paper sealer. Stops Torn Brown Paper from bubbling - geni.us/Gardz
DISCLAIMER : That Kilted Guy Video Productions LLC, cannot guarantee against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information. We assume no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this information at your own risk. No information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result, or any obligation for future assistance. Watching the video does not form a professional relationship or constitute receiving professional advice.
I have ALWAYS had issues with the "band" around the perimeter of a match over painted texture and never knew why. Thank you so much for explaining the issue and showing why staying in the patch area is so important. You rock, sir!
Thanks, glad I could help you out 😎. And thanks for subscribing!
Same here Thanks..
very good job on the matching. when i blend further out from the patch, i spray very lightly, let dry a few minutes, then gently blade it. i also primer new texture so as to not have the new paint show a different sheen on the textured area. i like your videos, and i've been doing this 26 yrs, and i always like to see how others do their work because i'm willing to learn something new.
Really appreciate your videos, I've watched several of them. It's very helpful how you talk about and show the 'little tricks' you've learned from all your experience. There are so many videos on how to tape/mud new drywall, but most DIYers aren't doing new construction. Your videos have helped me tremendously.
Saving my butt right now last two days. Slick work is the specialty and can Ny texture stomp even but man patching and matching spray- easier to come back today and do it again. Appreciate the breakdowns
As much as I would like to think I never have to worry about this, I'm assuming as I purchase more properties and do repairs myself that I will probably encounter this problem with drywall repairs. Really great information. Thank you!
Hello, and thanks for the comment. Hope this helps you out someday. Take care, Guy
DAILY VIEWER QUESTION- Who here has ever tried to match knockdown texture, or who MIGHT be needing to do this? Have you ever had the smeary fail? Leave a comment below with the hashtag #DoItRight
And if you need any of the tools in these videos, Check out our store for great advice and some tool lists I put together @t
#DoItRight I experienced smearing on a job that I am finishing up. I was able to clean up my mess and respray with better success, and am now at the painting stages getting ready to wrap it up. Tonight, I decided to check your library of videos to see what you offer on this topic and discovered this video which is helping me make sense of the do's and don'ts and how comes. Today I received a hopper that you recommended in another video and plan to practice on scrap pieces of drywall. I also joined your community of patrons and am subscribed to your channel. Thanks for your great videos!
Thanks, I appreciate that 😎, & Thanks for subscribing!
Your videos are great! My father was an Air Force vet guess that makes me a military brat. I grew up in the military. Thanks for your service.
Thank you very much.
This answers exactly the question I had on another video! Great stuff as always Guy.
Loving your videos. I've been binge watching quite a few of your videos and have subscribed. I am preparing to do some DIY projects around the house and appreciate your very detailed instructions. Your experience is invaluable and much appreciated, will be supporting through your PayPal soon. Thanks again. 😊
Diana, thank you so much. I knew there was a need for videos 📽 that taught in more detail and you guys are confirming this and I love it! Don't hesitate to ask any questions you have about a video as I'm glad to help if I can. Take care and good luck on your projects. 😎😀
Great video. My method is a lot more involved but I've never been satisfied with the result I get when I use my hopper to spray a repair. The density of the texture at the edges is always different than the rest of the wall/ceiling even if I do a star like repair where I break up the shape so it doesn't catch the eye. I can see it even if the customer cannot. I've finally got it down but it's not a money maker. I can't in good faith charge as much as the time it takes is worth. If it's a lot or repair (cracked joints or a big area) I'll skim and respray. The cost winds up being roughly the same and it's a lot easier plus it makes the repair(s) truly invisible.
Try my sponge technique. I’m about to post a video about it again as I just repaired 13 cracks on the walls in a home with knock down and matched them all and blended them all perfectly using the sponge technique. Plus it really helps if you come back the next day and lightly sand the edges to get them to blend in better. I’m going to post a Shorts video real soon showing that technique.
Handy video! Thank you-this one is in my downloads now ❤ 😎👍
Also if u prime or paint the area, the texture will dry more evenly for a better result 👍
I've always been in to big a rush to try that but will have to test it some day. Thanks
@@ThatKiltedGuyDIY lol I hear you on that one 🤣
This is the route I'm going to try. I think I'll put two coats of primer up there. Easy enough, all the paint stuff is already out.
Great video. Have you ever used a hand pump sprayer for repairs? If so, can you share your thoughts?
I haven’t. Thanks
Just knock-down textured using your videos! Thanks! Is there a tip to matching the paint and texture if it's semi-gloss? I thought I remembered you mentioning that in an earlier video. Thanks so much!! You're the best.
The way I handle repairs is to prime the repair area, let it dry thoroughly according to the label directions. Then paint just the repair extending it out slightly and let that dry four hours. Then you need to paint the whole wall in order for it to not show.
That Kilted Guy DIY Home Improvement Thank you so much for your knowledge. I knew you’d know how to handle it! Your expertise is greatly appreciated.
I’m doing a pretty big repair right now the tape and float went well but I’m really concerned about the knockdown. I’m concerned it’s going to look like garbage it just isn’t the same as the rest of the wall. I used my hopper and it didn’t shoot big enough globs so I got smaller knockdowns as where the surrounding areas are bigger, now I’m contemplating redoing it this time with an actual texture rig so I can shoot bigger globs
Search TH-cam for, “knockdown texture that kilted guy“ and you’ll see videos where I tell you how to get the look you want
It would be cool to have a link to the other video you're mentioning in the description.
Just go on TH-cam and search for, knock down texture that kilted guy
Hey I really rely on the support of my viewers to put these videos out and answer your questions. One easy way is to become a member of my TH-cam channel. You’ll get priority replies to your questions, bonus content and more. Here’s the link to join my TH-cam membership. m.th-cam.com/users/sponsor_channel/UCSinsqowcKxmSaKkx3W9_0w?noapp=1
Prime/seal the patch/patches before applying texture so that it dries even .... i spray patches with 90min. Mud easy money
I had that happen but it was pretty easy to fix by just cleaning off the smeared part over the painted, and therefore already textured area, with a damp sponge
Good pointer for everyone, thanks.
Thank you!
Can you do a video using a Laco pump gun?
I’ve been experimenting with one and wondered if you have any tips or videos. Thanks Mike.
I’ll try one day but it will be awhile
very informative and useful info !
Hi I Recently bought a home that was Built in nineteen forty five and has the ugliest knock down texture and I don't want it anymore. There is lead paint and I was considering just skim coating it and making a flat surface.
What is your opinion on this question? Mark I can send you a picture of that would help.
I’ve done that a lot. Watch the video below. But if it has lead paint I would avoid sanding it other than a really quick brush to knock off the nibs. But safer would be to scrape it with a 10 inch knife or something. And then put a bonding primer on it and mud over that.
th-cam.com/video/4T6x7wiP-aA/w-d-xo.html
Hey I really rely on the support of my viewers to put these videos out and answer your questions. One easy way is to become a member of my TH-cam channel. You’ll get priority replies to your questions, bonus content and more. Here’s the link to join my TH-cam membership. m.th-cam.com/users/sponsor_channel/UCSinsqowcKxmSaKkx3W9_0w?noapp=1
Would it help if we put a coat of either primer or paint over the patch BEFORE applying the texture so everything sets up the same? #DoItRight
Yes
If there is shinny paint...use a flat primer on the area and a little beyond.
What would happen if you painted the repair before texturing? Would all the texture set up at the same time, thus being more consistent or am I overcomplicating this?
It usually takes 2 coats to even out the porosity, but it should make it set up evenly, although VERY slowly unless it's hot and dry. I've had it take 30 minutes to set up on paint before. So I just spray very accurately. Hope that helped, and thanks for being a subscriber, Guy
Use 90 or 45 min mud
What about priming the patches before spraying texture? I’m curious if it would help stop the texture from knocking down differently along the edges of the patch. This is a problem more so across gloss paint, because the raw drywall mud wicks moisture faster than the painted surface.
Would priming the whole area beforehand help with the matching?
It’s a good idea
I’ve had a helluva time matching a small area in my bathroom
First one again! Thanks for the tips!
Hey, you are always quick and I thank you. ⏩⏩⏩ 🎞 Glad I could help.
What type of mud are you using for your texture
Box mud USG Plus 3
So you pretty much recommend that for anything but taping correct so don't need topping mud
Can you show how to spray Knockdown with a texture sprayer like Graco?
I plan on it
I knocked down my kitchen ceiling, and it went well. I just read that it's not recommended to use USG Topping for texture! Uh oh, why not? Also, is it a valid concern that rolling the dried knock down with primer can "melt' the knock down, or take the sharp edges off?
Toppings not ideal for texture because it has very little adhesive in it but it should be fine. As far as rolling the texture, that’s not going to soften it. The thickness of the paint and the way it flows over the edges will soften it after it’s been painted multiple times.
@@ThatKiltedGuyDIY Thank you sir! Last question (I think): Is 24 hours sufficient before priming the knock down, and painting? I'm almost there, and don't want to screw it up. Lol
I tell my customers that in dryer climate and warmer air, that 24 hours is usually enough but look at all of your texture and if you see any that still not white, then it’s not dry. If you put a fan in the area 24 hours is plenty.
If you appreciate our help with your project and would like to support our channel, please consider joining our TH-cam membership for as little as three dollars per month. You can join by clicking the join button beside the subscribe button on any of our videos. Thank you
@@ThatKiltedGuyDIY I'm in So Cal. It's been 20% humidity, and in the 70's. We really need some rain. I think the knock down is dry, but I think this stuff dries to yellow - probably another bad reason to use it for knock down. Ugh. After I finish my project, I probably won't do drywall for quite some time, so a membership is not really for me. But, I'll see what I can buy, or donate something when I can sit down and take a breath. Your videos have been really helpful, so I hope to help.
Maybe I didn't apply enough lockdown texture on the first pass. Can addition be added after the first application has dried in places that look too sparse?
It’s possible, yes. And if it doesn’t work, just sand it off when it’s dry and start over
Can you try not jumping to so many things and just staying on track, it throws people off
Hi , I do have a job that involve soothing couple of walls , the issue is those walls are stucco walls just like the outside part of the house , but the those walls are inside the house, can we mud them using hot mud and all purpose mud?
I've never done that exact thing, but it should work fine. You might test a small area and let it dry to ensure the plaster doesn't react negatively to the hot mud. I think the hot mud will stick a little better, so use that on the first coat, then the lightweight all purpose over that, then sand it smooth.
@@ThatKiltedGuyDIY thank you.
You're welcome. Glad I could help.
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Hey there mr kilted guy where were you about a week ago? I got one of my rooms with some of that texture and I didn’t know about waiting till all the moisture got off and I used one of the metal knife and all of the paint came off with the texture leaving only my walls down to bare and I guess to the basic drywall, it’s original state and now I’m not sure what to do since I payed 150 for it just to have the whole destroyed what are your suggestions to do now? How do I begin to do? Start from fresh is all just drywall aahhh!!!! My frustration Sinks in as I type this. Thanks.
Hello, and sorry to hear that. 🙁 For a problem like this, it's a bit much for here so I would refer you to our advice page at: www.thatkiltedguy.com/advice-page
prime before texture
Nice so I'm assuming you retired and now banking on you tube with that knowledge. Good luck to you and thanks for the pointers.
I did.
Just prime patches before spraying texture makes your life easier
As a professional doing nothing but repairs sometimes we don’t have an extra hour to watch primer dry so that’s why I showed this. But yes priming will help it dry closer to the paint time but it’s still more absorbent than semi gloss in bathrooms and such
@@ThatKiltedGuyDIY right , I’ve used flat primer in my patches and it takes literally 20-25 minutes to dry but I guess it depends on the amount of patches you’re working on . If is just one then yes , it’s better to just wait on the texture to dry . Thanks man
My match was good but i can see the patch out line even though I sanded it well
Check this out- th-cam.com/video/3_QSmuf0bVI/w-d-xo.html
@@ThatKiltedGuyDIY Thanks appreciate it so much.
Doing a match job now and had to re-do it 😩
Sorry to hear that. Matching knock down? Matching texture takes a lot of practice. I had to redo my very first one. And others took a lot of practice while others came out ok but not great.
@@ThatKiltedGuyDIY ya a large patch on a knockdown ceiling. Had to scrape it all off and sponge it back to the primer. Gonna try again tomorrow
Did you watch my video where I show how to adjust all the variables when spraying knock down? It's at Spraying Knock Down Texture. Learn the secrets only PROS know using this $30 Tool th-cam.com/video/eKkDBGHCbJo/w-d-xo.html
It might help.
@@ThatKiltedGuyDIY yes and thank you
I ended up matching that heavy knockdown perfect after I ditched the magic trowel for an acrylic trowel. I ended having to wait almost an hour before knocking down for it to come out the same.
I’d did that and you were right. However, I’m wondering why my texture dried so fast?
If it sets up real quick it's due to one or more of the following- Low humidity in the air, a porous surface, high room temps, higher airflow in the room etc. If you really want to slow it down, prime the surface first, as it can double or more you working time since it makes the surface less porous. Hope that helps.
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More of a big advertisement to sell stuff that how to fix. Not inpressed
Sorry, I guess I should spend thousands of hours a year and put these up for free. My bad
Thank you!
Thanks, glad I could help you out 😎. And thanks for subscribing!