Excellent, well constructed roof trusses! Why don't you lay the pre framed wall on the floor and nail on siding before standing? If your floor was as much as 1/4" out of level, which it isn't, the squared walls with installed siding could only possibly be out of plumb 1/32" or less! Try an entire garage, all 4 walls, and I bet you change your framing style, especially as you have a large (4 men) crew. I did this for 2 decades, it works! ....13
You Should Have poured a Foundation and Had it roughly 6" Higher then your concrete floor. Also you should have had anchor bolts installed into the concrete when it was poured. what happens when the concrete Heaves up from frost? your Garage doors, walk doors wont shut properly. I would have used a 2x6 frame so if you ever decided to insulate you get get a decent R-Value. It would have been much easier just to order engineered Roof Truss in.
Thanks for the input. To often in our area people barely have money to build even a carport so cost is a huge part of the equation. We’ve built around 400 garages over the past 30+ years pouring the Alaskan floating slab method and because we make sure the earthwork is compacted, well drained and higher than the ground around it. The anchor bolts are split anchor type and put in after walls are up. Usually we use store bought trusses because stick built is so time consuming but the lead time for this garage to get trusses was 6 weeks (crazy) we had to build them. 2x6’s would have been great but $500 was a budget buster for these folks. Thanks again!
MARK SMITH we use 1/2" split anchor bolts. We drill holes after the walls are up. It's easier to power trowel without anchor bolts. It's also quicker than lining up bolt holes with conventional anchor bolts.
Thanks for the comment. Insulation is critical. You can see when the walls are on the trailer we've stapled foam insulation onto the pressure treated bottom plate.
I've bought engineered storage trusses in the past with top cord overhang and that's how they were built. Not sure I completely understand why they did it. It seems to me they did it to transfer the load better to the top of the wall. I know with bottom cord "Fink" style trusses they use a triangular shaped block of wood instead of that length of 2x4.
thanks for the reply. I'm working on designing my own for a 34-foot span and was trying to figure out how that increased the strength above having the angled brace from the end of it, except the area between the brace and the wall. It would certainly be stronger through that area, but I don't see why it would be needed there and not the centeral area of the top cord. Thinking a bit more, I assume it would distribute the forces of the weight on the top cord further inward from the wall and would essentially shorten the length of the part of the top cord that was taking forces near the limit of the lumber.
We drill and put in split anchor bolts. It gives us flexibility to adjust the walls if necessary. We occasionally use conventional anchor bolts. Thanks for asking.
"The Alaskan monolithic floating slab is a great system for pouring concrete. It's tried and proven worldwide! We put a 12"compacted gravel base and make sure it's well drained. We don't build on clay! We personally have built over 300 garages this way over a 30+ year period. It has saved customers $8,000 to $10,000 in extra sitework and frost wall costs that have made it affordable for a lot of folks. We have yet to have a problem. All I have is experience to back up what I do." per Kens Karpentry in reply to Don Z's question asking the same.
Denny Armijo I've done about 350 floating slabs with 3000 psi concrete and 1/2" rebar spaced 24" both directions and a thickened perimeter. We also make sure it's compacted gravel base and we'll drained. Never had a problem. Thanks for asking
Great question! We've poured about 400 of these Alaskan floating slabs over the past 30 years. We always make sure the soil is well drained and compacted. We've never had a problem.
Denny Armijo we use 1/2" split anchors. You drive a pin in the center of the anchor bolt (after drilling a 1/2" hole) and it expands the anchor bolt in the hole.
@@kenskarpentry Why not install the anchor bolts during the concrete installation? Any particular reason? Seems like an easier way to go since you were involved in the foundation work anyway.
Kens Karpentry --- Measure their truck!!!!! I had to constantly point out to the truckers/suppliers, "you're not giving me for what I'm being billed". Usually after several measurements the over charging stopped.
The slab is not 100% level. The corners should be built, and with a transit, a level point should be made all the way around. And every stud measured with up to that point with a chaulk line that is strung from corner to corner.
jeff spence thanks for the comment. We use a transit to set the top of the form boards within a sixteenth of an inch! The top of the slab is perfectly flat.
You dont want a flat slab in a garage especially in a cold area . you pull your car in the snow melts off then freezes on the floor!!! You want a slope to the door!
That's a lot of garages. Keep up the good work
Excellent video!!!👍👍👍
You guys made that look easy. Awesome
Great crew
Good job. All I have is a tent garage
Nice job
buenos videos
construccion
Esplêndido, muito bacana! Parabéns
muchas gracias
Excellent, well constructed roof trusses! Why don't you lay the pre framed wall on the floor and nail on siding before standing? If your floor was as much as 1/4" out of level, which it isn't, the squared walls with installed siding could only possibly be out of plumb 1/32" or less! Try an entire garage, all 4 walls, and I bet you change your framing style, especially as you have a large (4 men) crew. I did this for 2 decades, it works! ....13
Nice idea. Maybe next year. Currently there's only 3 of us.
Kens Karpentry --- Wall jacks are available to lift walls of great weight with ease.
Great video. What's the pitch on that roof?
5/12
looks like you built one truss and used it as a form to build the other ones right on top of it. Is that it? looks good.
Yes by doing that each one comes out identical. (mostly) :)
Another masterpiece 👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽
Thanks
great
Cua tos metros M2 es el área xfsbor y las maderas de cua tas pulgadas y separación esta lindo no hay plano perfecto....gracias y bendiciones..
Gracias por el comentario. El garage tiene 71,3 m
i want one..
Hey Ken ! Good job 👏. I love this garage. How much does it cost?
Around $18,000
I like the anchoring idea,what about long term?is this a new system of anchoring?
I’m wondering why they don require frost walls ? Do you have much cracking of the floor or movement with the cold weather ?
Price for a 3 1/2 car garage build from the ground up?
$35-40k
Did not see pressure treated bottom sill, nor did I see anchor bolts to the slab, so is it just sitting on the slab? where are the anchor bolts ?
Thanks for the comment. The bottom plates are pressure treated with sill seal and we drill afterwards and use split anchor bolts.
Nice video. Did you use RBB siding in lieu of OSB underlayment? Did you wrap it first?
We used conventional T-111. They weren't going to insulate it so we didn't use any wrap. Thanks for the comment.
You Should Have poured a Foundation and Had it roughly 6" Higher then your concrete floor. Also you should have had anchor bolts installed into the concrete when it was poured. what happens when the concrete Heaves up from frost? your Garage doors, walk doors wont shut properly. I would have used a 2x6 frame so if you ever decided to insulate you get get a decent R-Value. It would have been much easier just to order engineered Roof Truss in.
Thanks for the input. To often in our area people barely have money to build even a carport so cost is a huge part of the equation. We’ve built around 400 garages over the past 30+ years pouring the Alaskan floating slab method and because we make sure the earthwork is compacted, well drained and higher than the ground around it. The anchor bolts are split anchor type and put in after walls are up. Usually we use store bought trusses because stick built is so time consuming but the lead time for this garage to get trusses was 6 weeks (crazy) we had to build them. 2x6’s would have been great but $500 was a budget buster for these folks. Thanks again!
👍👍🇧🇪
Beautiful countryside, where are you from?
Southofhere85 Shirk we're up in northern Vermont about an hour from the Canadian border. Looks like it's warm where you are.
Kens Karpentry
I'm actually in central WI so not overly warm yet! My pic is my favorite vacation spot!
how much for a garage like this?
Around $28,000
I saw the trusses but didn't see any purlins, and girts.
super
How big is in meter?
About 8 meters by 8.6 meters
How do you not use a footer???
Thanks for asking. We pour what’s called an Alaskan floating slab. It literally floats on a well prepared site.
On a rough estimate what would the cost be on something like this?
$17,000 to $18,000 not including leveling the ground. My website has all the info. kenskarpentry.com. Thanks for asking
Thank you
$17,000 to $18,000 not including excavation. My website kenskarpentry.com has a lot more information. Thanks for asking
What size is this
This one is 24' wide by 28' deep
造价还是挺高
Я не строитель, но между деревом и бетоном должна быть гидроизоляция
Ты прав. Мы основной подоконник уплотнения гидроизоляции на дно давления обработанной пластины, прежде чем мы стоим стены вверх.
how did you neil the frams on concrete
MARK SMITH we use 1/2" split anchor bolts. We drill holes after the walls are up. It's easier to power trowel without anchor bolts. It's also quicker than lining up bolt holes with conventional anchor bolts.
thanks a lot bro
Where is the insulation between concrete and wood ?
Thanks for the comment. Insulation is critical. You can see when the walls are on the trailer we've stapled foam insulation onto the pressure treated bottom plate.
@@kenskarpentry Ok, greets from Poland. Have a good Thanksgiving day !
I don't understand the extra 2x4 under the outer ends of the top cord. Could you please explain the reason for that?
I've bought engineered storage trusses in the past with top cord overhang and that's how they were built. Not sure I completely understand why they did it. It seems to me they did it to transfer the load better to the top of the wall. I know with bottom cord "Fink" style trusses they use a triangular shaped block of wood instead of that length of 2x4.
thanks for the reply. I'm working on designing my own for a 34-foot span and was trying to figure out how that increased the strength above having the angled brace from the end of it, except the area between the brace and the wall. It would certainly be stronger through that area, but I don't see why it would be needed there and not the centeral area of the top cord. Thinking a bit more, I assume it would distribute the forces of the weight on the top cord further inward from the wall and would essentially shorten the length of the part of the top cord that was taking forces near the limit of the lumber.
What did you use to attach the walls to the foundation?
We drill and put in split anchor bolts. It gives us flexibility to adjust the walls if necessary. We occasionally use conventional anchor bolts. Thanks for asking.
Don’t you need a frost wall for the floor/foundation?
"The Alaskan monolithic floating slab is a great system for pouring concrete. It's tried and proven worldwide! We put a 12"compacted gravel base and make sure it's well drained. We don't build on clay! We personally have built over 300 garages this way over a 30+ year period. It has saved customers $8,000 to $10,000 in extra sitework and frost wall costs that have made it affordable for a lot of folks. We have yet to have a problem. All I have is experience to back up what I do." per Kens Karpentry in reply to Don Z's question asking the same.
Joseph Lansberry kgfggqz
Kl n
Is your pour considered a floating slab?no worries on heaving and or cracking?courious.
Denny Armijo I've done about 350 floating slabs with 3000 psi concrete and 1/2" rebar spaced 24" both directions and a thickened perimeter. We also make sure it's compacted gravel base and we'll drained. Never had a problem. Thanks for asking
What would that cost to put up?
Rene Bourassa you can check my website it has prices and what's included. kenskarpentry@charter.net
how uch did it cost
This one including the site work was stound $19,000. Thanks for asking
@@kenskarpentry If you can build it for that in Huntington Beach Ca. come on over.
No footings?
Great question! We've poured about 400 of these Alaskan floating slabs over the past 30 years. We always make sure the soil is well drained and compacted. We've never had a problem.
I'm all for it, don't know if Oregon building codes would let us do that. Where you at?
I'm assuming Alaska, remoteness would make that possible. But awesome job anyway.
How did they anchor to concrete
Denny Armijo we use 1/2" split anchors. You drive a pin in the center of the anchor bolt (after drilling a 1/2" hole) and it expands the anchor bolt in the hole.
@@kenskarpentry Why not install the anchor bolts during the concrete installation? Any particular reason? Seems like an easier way to go since you were involved in the foundation work anyway.
@@Archbizhop We do it both ways. This time however we didn't have the anchor bolts on hand when we poured. Poor planning on my part.
That wasn't 14 yard they can only hold 14 tons a yard is 1.33 tons
dhanzasikam Toledo haha! You're probably right. I know they bill me for 14 yards per load for over 20 years. No wonder I don't have any money.
Kens Karpentry --- Measure their truck!!!!! I had to constantly point out to the truckers/suppliers, "you're not giving me for what I'm being billed". Usually after several measurements the over charging stopped.
hier vind je de beste bouwtekeningen! >> bouwtekeningenhoekbanksteigerhout.eu/
The slab is not 100% level. The corners should be built, and with a transit, a level point should be made all the way around. And every stud measured with up to that point with a chaulk line that is strung from corner to corner.
jeff spence thanks for the comment. We use a transit to set the top of the form boards within a sixteenth of an inch! The top of the slab is perfectly flat.
Good deal. Looks great.
You dont want a flat slab in a garage especially in a cold area . you pull your car in the snow melts off then freezes on the floor!!! You want a slope to the door!
next time use preasiotreted 2x4 for bottom on the semen floor you hacker do the job right
@Bill Barnews idiot
@Bill Barnews and with an iq higher than you..if you don't know that meaning of iq Google it😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
@Bill Barnews your welcome Trump's bastard😂😂😂
Semen floor? I don’t want one of those! I’d rather have cement......
should have used 1 big door