What a great jig. I'm going to make one also because sharp blade are a must. I will gut a small dish out on each side for my fingers to grab it easier. Thank you for a great video and instruction as to how it was made. I bought some new blades for my jointer so now I will never be without blades
Nice design! I recently started looking for a good sharpening Jig. Yours looks like it is just what I've been looking for. Also, I have a spare set of blades that I am constantly moving around while looking for something else. I never know where to store them. I think that if I secure the spare blades in the Jig--blade side down--I could store them with the Jig.
Andy Lotz Thanks, my jointer knives are a 40 degree bevel. (I should have said I set my saw cut to 40 degrees.) Every model varies, so measure twice and cut once. If you are going to error, I would make the jig angle a couple of degrees shallow so you guarantee you are working the cutting edges.
I'm a little confused, Jeff. If your knives are 40 degrees, your table saw would have to be set at 60 degrees to make the cuts (7:56 on). Does your saw tilt that far? Mine only goes to about 45. Any other setting would mean the cutting edge of the knives wouldn't be flat on the stone during the sharpening process. Or am I misunderstanding something?
DesandSam You're correct somewhat and I misled you somewhat too. I did set my saw angle to 40 degrees and probably should have gone to 45 but I am putting a microbevel on the edge. The complimentary angle you're talking about would be 50 degrees to get the blade to lay flat. I should have replied that I set my jointer knife JIG to 40 degree and no my saw does not tilt that far.
@@JeffFischer1 you could set the blade to 40 and them run your wood though on it's side . Depending on how your tilt is you may need to move your fence to the other side of the blade and also set up fingers to keep the wood tight to the fence.
I wonder, if you made the whole thing out of one piece of wood, perhaps you could have drilled the holes as the first step then rip the top off to make the top piece, then cut your angles? Would be guaranteed accuracy?
Its a workable method i guess, and i sure it will work, , but watching you drill out the top piece then switch to countersink the center hole. then again switch out, drill and countersink the end holes. It would be more easier to drill out all three holes at once, pin it (with another drill bit, to hold center hole in place) plus less chance of it moving while continuing to drill out the end holes and countersink them. just a thought
Trolling through the YT stuff I found a video advertising a blade holding device for planers and jointers. Holds two blades. They sit in mortises which are cut 3/8” wide by whatever depth necessary and are inset into a brass square rod which has a groove cut dead center to accommodate the blade. It’s held by set screws. I didn’t see everything up close so my take on it could be miles off. He probably used threaded inserts to secure the blade in the frame.
But how do you do the 3rd blade? I suppose you could re-do one of the first two blades, but then how do you ensure you're not taking off more from the re-used blade? Maybe it doesn't matter for the minuscule amount removed. Also, re-using one of the first 2 blades might slightly alter the angle of grind on the 3rd blade... But again, might not matter for all practical purposes.
You have basically a u shaped piece of wood. The center is down say 1/2" from the angled edges. I can understand you cut the grooves but not the center relief. Does this flat area need to be perfectly flat or does the center piece that holds the knives sit higher that the flat area?
After you cut it and insert the knives there will be a slight gap between the wedge and the body. When you tighten the screws, and it doesn't take much, everything is held in place. Take note of the view at about 12.:10.
Super! This is what it takes to sharpen long knives . Thank you very much for the video !
Thanks for watching.
Супер! Это то что нужно для заточки длинных ножей . Большое спасибо за видео !
👍👍 👍 👍 👍
What a great jig. I'm going to make one also because sharp blade are a must. I will gut a small dish out on each side for my fingers to grab it easier. Thank you for a great video and instruction as to how it was made. I bought some new blades for my jointer so now I will never be without blades
Thanks for watching and good luck with your jig.
Nice design! I recently started looking for a good sharpening Jig. Yours looks like it is just what I've been looking for. Also, I have a spare set of blades that I am constantly moving around while looking for something else. I never know where to store them. I think that if I secure the spare blades in the Jig--blade side down--I could store them with the Jig.
Thanks for watching. I store my spare set wrapped in paper towels and then taped closed with the date sharpened on the tape. Good luck with your jig.
Great jig thank you I will be stealing your design just what I was looking for
Steal away and thanks for watching.
We are working on an adjustable (you can dial in any angle you want) version for VSC Tools. Stay tuned.
+Jeff Fischer Do you and Alan know when the jig will be available?
+aearnest Nevermind..I see that it is available now
you see so many just tighten the one hole on the hackobs chuck nice to see it done correctly
Thank you and thanks for watching.
that's brilliant.....what angle did you use on your jig?
Andy Lotz Thanks, my jointer knives are a 40 degree bevel. (I should have said I set my saw cut to 40 degrees.) Every model varies, so measure twice and cut once. If you are going to error, I would make the jig angle a couple of degrees shallow so you guarantee you are working the cutting edges.
I'm a little confused, Jeff. If your knives are 40 degrees, your table saw would have to be set at 60 degrees to make the cuts (7:56 on). Does your saw tilt that far? Mine only goes to about 45. Any other setting would mean the cutting edge of the knives wouldn't be flat on the stone during the sharpening process. Or am I misunderstanding something?
DesandSam You're correct somewhat and I misled you somewhat too. I did set my saw angle to 40 degrees and probably should have gone to 45 but I am putting a microbevel on the edge. The complimentary angle you're talking about would be 50 degrees to get the blade to lay flat. I should have replied that I set my jointer knife JIG to 40 degree and no my saw does not tilt that far.
@@JeffFischer1 you could set the blade to 40 and them run your wood though on it's side . Depending on how your tilt is you may need to move your fence to the other side of the blade and also set up fingers to keep the wood tight to the fence.
I wonder, if you made the whole thing out of one piece of wood, perhaps you could have drilled the holes as the first step then rip the top off to make the top piece, then cut your angles? Would be guaranteed accuracy?
I have since moved on to the Tormek. much faster and more accurate.
what angle did you cut in the block?
45, thanks for watching.
Its a workable method i guess, and i sure it will work, , but watching you drill out the top piece then switch to countersink the center hole. then again switch out, drill and countersink the end holes. It would be more easier to drill out all three holes at once, pin it (with another drill bit, to hold center hole in place) plus less chance of it moving while continuing to drill out the end holes and countersink them. just a thought
Thanks for the input and for watching.
I’m in the middle of blade sharpening as of now. All of them which is every one of them planer, jointer, chisels planes.
Trolling through the YT stuff I found a video advertising a blade holding device for planers and jointers. Holds two blades. They sit in mortises which are cut 3/8” wide by whatever depth necessary and are inset into a brass square rod which has a groove cut dead center to accommodate the blade. It’s held by set screws. I didn’t see everything up close so my take on it could be miles off. He probably used threaded inserts to secure the blade in the frame.
I know that feeling but once your done going back to work is a lot more fun
hmmmm?? do you have a link?@@zenbooter
But how do you do the 3rd blade? I suppose you could re-do one of the first two blades, but then how do you ensure you're not taking off more from the re-used blade? Maybe it doesn't matter for the minuscule amount removed. Also, re-using one of the first 2 blades might slightly alter the angle of grind on the 3rd blade... But again, might not matter for all practical purposes.
+dspahn you sharpen with the sequence of 1 and 2, 2 and 3, and then 1 and 3. Ensuring that you do remove the same amount of material as possible.
I have a Jet planer that uses 3 blades. I have multiple sets of old blades so I just do 6 at a time (2+2+2)
y a jeff good fabrication truly but wood will contact oftenly with water can we do this some pvc material??
Is there an advantage to having your jig's bevel right on the edge? If the jig was about 3/16" wider that bevel would have more support. Great video!
Not really and I like your idea. Thanks for watching.
jeff Ithink the pvc made block will beneficial longer time will It ???
Yes it would. Much better around water.
How did you flatten the center?
Not sure what you mean, flatten the back of the blade, in the center?
You have basically a u shaped piece of wood. The center is down say 1/2" from the angled edges. I can understand you cut the grooves but not the center relief. Does this flat area need to be perfectly flat or does the center piece that holds the knives sit higher that the flat area?
Yes, it sits about a 1/16 higher. Thanks for making that more clear to me.
But how did you cut it since it is below the side wings that hold the knives? Are the sides with the sloped top glued to a center core?
After you cut it and insert the knives there will be a slight gap between the wedge and the body. When you tighten the screws, and it doesn't take much, everything is held in place. Take note of the view at about 12.:10.
I noticed my knives have 2 degrees one 45° and a little 30°/20° on the top
Sounds like a micro bevel. Either you can enhance that angle or sharpen until it is gone. Thanks for watching.