Thanks for this video Steve, not just for the great jig but I think it’s actually really helpful to be reminded that even somebody who’s obviously extremely competent and experienced can have an accident on a table saw, I’ve been a carpenter for 30 odd years and I have a very healthy respect for table saws, you can get caught out so quickly even after thinking you’ve covered all the angles. Thank you for leaving that part in and not editing it out, lots of respect for that👍
Great video thank you! It might be easier to cut the back side pieces off first so that it can lay flat on the table. The slots would still be easy because that side would still be flat
As it happens, I agree with you :) There is no rhyme or reason to which videos get seen and liked and which don't. I have 13K followers, yet many videos only get a few hundred views, let alone likes. I do not understand TH-cam's algorithms at all. Thank you very much for your support, it's much appreciated.
@@SteveMaskery ehhh, thank YOU for the content! I'm currently soaking up different options for sharpening my blades and this video was the most enjoyable, thanks to your down to earth comedic approach and explanations along the way.
Just in case anyone reads this comment, I have one of these planer (jointer) knife jigs made by Steve himself as a gift, it's the one with the nylon screws in, I've had mine quite a while, so it must have been one of the "early models" (lol), works a treat anyone with multiple sets of knives should make one for themselves to keep them honed when not in use.
I am just learning about table saws (Age 68) had heard about kick back now I know what it is. Thank you. You could polish the cutting edges even sharper by placing cutting compound on a sheet of leather and using the same as your emery cloth. Be careful to move the blade away from the cutting edge on the leather.
I'll do my best. Think of an ordinary bench plane. Normally we grind the blade at 25 degrees and then hone it at 30. But the cutting angle is determined by the frog, which is 45 degrees. That is the cutting angle, and even if we hone a bit off 30, say 29 or 31 degrees, it really doesn't matter very much because the cutting angle remains fixed at 45 degrees, that 30 degree bevel is only for providing clearance behind the cut. It's the same on the P/T. The knife is presented to the wood at the angle determined by the cutter block, the bevel just provides clearance behind the cut. HTH
Good Morning Steve! Thanks for the excellent idea of that jig. Left my comment on the flying debris already under the other video 😉. Here I have a question on the honing itself: Are you actually using P80 and P120? My blind guess would have been around P240 for a start and P320 or P400 for the fine polish. I might even think about P600 wet paper. Am I overdoing or is there perhaps a difference between the UK and the German sandpaper in terms of coarseness (like metric and imperial)? Cheers Andreas BTW I just recognized, that your table saw is named "Excalibur" - that explains everything...
Hi Andreas. You can go as high as you want, but I am just trying to remove the "cross-grain" grinding marks. A chisel or plane iron is sharpened by pushing the edge forward, so increased smoothness makes more of a difference, whereas these knives are pushed sideways, so longitudinal scratches have much less effect. But go as high as you like, yes. P120 is the same in Germany and UK.
Many thanks Steve, excellent as always and I’ll certainly be making both those jigs. Just one question, I thought your choice of paper was a bit rough. I would have finished on at least 240 and then polished on a 400 or 600.
That depends on how bad they are. If it's a small nick and just one, you can hone them up and when you put them back in, offset them very slightly so that the nicks are not in line. But if they are badly nicked you may be able to get them reground. Note that there is a limit to the re-grinding process, some machines have a minimum width that they can hold.
Thanks for this video Steve, not just for the great jig but I think it’s actually really helpful to be reminded that even somebody who’s obviously extremely competent and experienced can have an accident on a table saw, I’ve been a carpenter for 30 odd years and I have a very healthy respect for table saws, you can get caught out so quickly even after thinking you’ve covered all the angles. Thank you for leaving that part in and not editing it out, lots of respect for that👍
Excellent video Steve 😊. Best that I've seen on the subject.
Great video thank you! It might be easier to cut the back side pieces off first so that it can lay flat on the table. The slots would still be easy because that side would still be flat
How does this video only have 200 thumbs ups? Should be way more. Fun video. Enjoyable personality.
As it happens, I agree with you :) There is no rhyme or reason to which videos get seen and liked and which don't. I have 13K followers, yet many videos only get a few hundred views, let alone likes. I do not understand TH-cam's algorithms at all.
Thank you very much for your support, it's much appreciated.
@@SteveMaskery ehhh, thank YOU for the content! I'm currently soaking up different options for sharpening my blades and this video was the most enjoyable, thanks to your down to earth comedic approach and explanations along the way.
Just in case anyone reads this comment, I have one of these planer (jointer) knife jigs made by Steve himself as a gift, it's the one with the nylon screws in, I've had mine quite a while, so it must have been one of the "early models" (lol), works a treat anyone with multiple sets of knives should make one for themselves to keep them honed when not in use.
Steve, you're a GREAT teacher! Thanks! 🏆
Very simple and effective jig. Many men would have edited out the flying offcut, I'm sure everyone appreciates your honesty.
Thank you Steve I’m going to build a jig now 😊
Very helpful ol Chap, will give a go!!! thanks :)
I am just learning about table saws (Age 68) had heard about kick back now I know what it is. Thank you.
You could polish the cutting edges even sharper by placing cutting compound on a sheet of leather and using the same as your emery cloth. Be careful to move the blade away from the cutting edge on the leather.
@12:50 "In goes me knob"
But seriously, thanks for the idea for the jig, and the lesson in safety.
Nice tip, thanks.
think like a engenher mecanic congratulacios.
@Steve Maskery can you please explained more about the bevel angle in relation to the cutterhead on thickness planer
I'll do my best.
Think of an ordinary bench plane. Normally we grind the blade at 25 degrees and then hone it at 30. But the cutting angle is determined by the frog, which is 45 degrees. That is the cutting angle, and even if we hone a bit off 30, say 29 or 31 degrees, it really doesn't matter very much because the cutting angle remains fixed at 45 degrees, that 30 degree bevel is only for providing clearance behind the cut.
It's the same on the P/T. The knife is presented to the wood at the angle determined by the cutter block, the bevel just provides clearance behind the cut.
HTH
Good Morning Steve! Thanks for the excellent idea of that jig. Left my comment on the flying debris already under the other video 😉. Here I have a question on the honing itself: Are you actually using P80 and P120? My blind guess would have been around P240 for a start and P320 or P400 for the fine polish. I might even think about P600 wet paper. Am I overdoing or is there perhaps a difference between the UK and the German sandpaper in terms of coarseness (like metric and imperial)?
Cheers
Andreas
BTW I just recognized, that your table saw is named "Excalibur" - that explains everything...
Hi Andreas. You can go as high as you want, but I am just trying to remove the "cross-grain" grinding marks. A chisel or plane iron is sharpened by pushing the edge forward, so increased smoothness makes more of a difference, whereas these knives are pushed sideways, so longitudinal scratches have much less effect. But go as high as you like, yes. P120 is the same in Germany and UK.
Gr8 job thank you😇
Many thanks Steve, excellent as always and I’ll certainly be making both those jigs. Just one question, I thought your choice of paper was a bit rough. I would have finished on at least 240 and then polished on a 400 or 600.
You can go as high as you like, but the scratches are longitudinal, so they don't matter as much as they would on a chisel or a plane iron.
Just to let you know the first bevel is the PRIMARY bevel and the second or relief bevel is the secondary bevel. I used to sharpen and make tools.
I got a jointer free from the side of the road and the blades have a knick in them. Can that be sharpened out or do I need to just replace them?
That depends on how bad they are. If it's a small nick and just one, you can hone them up and when you put them back in, offset them very slightly so that the nicks are not in line. But if they are badly nicked you may be able to get them reground. Note that there is a limit to the re-grinding process, some machines have a minimum width that they can hold.
Axminster AW106PT2 blades are used up from start 30mm deep to finish at 17mm deep !
I try not to make angled cuts if I can find another method such as with a bandsaw .
convert to helix tungsten carbide bits. and never look back ---- knives ugh
I'd like that very much. Maybe one day. I need a rather larger TY profile to amke that happen! 😁
Bandsaw and blue tape, much safer to trim cosmetic peices ... Same with drilling you use the offcut as supports