This video concludes a 3 part series about lighting. Here I review light blocking, soldering and work with switches. Link to Evandesigns formerly modeltrainsoftware: evandesigns.com?aff=12
Thank you. I am trying to learn how to light some small assemblage art works. I asked at a local electronics shop but they had no interest in helping me at all. Your excellent set of 3 videos have given me enough information to get started. Much appreciated.
I know this is late, but what I like to use to block light 100% especially on larger surfaces is aluminium tape. It blocks light 100% and has the benefit of being reflective. That means more light in the areas where you want it.
Thank you so much I have been sweating about how to light a model I am planing to build and wow you have made the process so much more manageable brilliant ease to follow well explained well done.
My man, thanks a million for these fundamental but necessary tutorial vids. Been building models since I was a kid. I love my builds, but it's time to put some flare on them (blinking lights, spinning propellers etc.) Thank you for TAKING the time to explain it 🙏👍🤘
thanks for taking the time to make these. i feel way more confident after these three vids. that Mars diorama is also really amazing. the color and surface texture look so real.
Led tutorial series that starts off with a beautiful shot of the original Enterprise? Count me in. This was a fantastic guide, thank you for doing this! Subcribed =]
Wow thanks man, this was a good thorough series. I was using a 9V and 3 blue LEDs to light the backside (drive) of a Millennium Falcon, and had drilled 3 holes in the back to let the LEDs protrude into the "drive compartment". That, of course, created 3 bright blobs and nothing else. Now I realize the LEDs should be inside the model, and many holes should be drilled to the drive compartment, so diffuse light bleeds through. I don't know if it's possible to salvage the current build...
Great tutorial, thanks. I've just finished a model of a star destroyer using fiber optics for the lightning. To prevent light leaks I wrapped a small piece of black electrical tape around the LED and the end of the fiber optics. That blocks most of the light at it's source and one layer of black paint on the inside of the model is sufficient to block the rest of the light. By the way, my next project will be the TOS Galactica and I'm already greatful for your video of it's building.
Excellent tutorial. One of the very best regardless of subject matter. One question: How do you affix the LED and wiring to the model? I'll watch the series once again to see if I just missed it. Nice presentation.
Many people use hot glue but I've been told that it could potentially damage the LED. I use superglue instead along with an accelerator like Insta-set. Secure the LED or wires in place with masking tape first then apply a drop of superglue followed by the accelerator. Blow dry or use a little compressed air (gently) to facilitate drying. Remove the masking tape. Hope that helps and thank you for your kind compliment.
A gloss white finish will defuse the light better than a silver or chrome paint. Prop makers use white when lighting their work. Just my two cents. I hope it helps.
I want to light the Moebius Models Dawn of Justice Batmobile.I want to light the front headlights,the dash and a red flickering light for the exhaust to simulate flames coming out of the exhaust.I figured out how to light everything but I'm not sure what to use to power everything.After watching your videos I want to use a button cell battery with round switch that you mentioned at the end of this video.Where would be a good place to mount the switch and the battery and where is a good place for access to replace the battery when it needs to be replaced.Thanks for any advice that you can give me and I hope to get a response soon.
Hi Dan....I'm afraid I don't have a good answer. This would be hard to do and is something I really thought about. The problem is that there isn't a lot of room inside. Once the interior is installed there is very little room for much else which is why I ended up wiring it to the switch and power source externally. I would have preferred to make it self contained as well.
I am brand new to light and i have a kit with a single Street light that i would like lit. But i want to plug it into an outlet and add a light detector so it only pops on at night like a night light how do i go about doing this. If you could point me in the right direction i would much appreciate thanks.
Andrew PlantGollum i would contact the guys at modelttainsoftware.com. They sell the ac adapters but not sure about the nightlight feature. They no doubt would also be able to advise u there as well.
Great vids ! Question: how many l.e.ds can you hook up to a resistor or is it resistor per light depending on power source ..9 volt, 2AA×2, tripleA×3watch batteries (big flat ones) x2 ect ect any helpful suggestions? Thank you
This article may be of help: www.allaboutcircuits.com/technical-articles/led-arrays-one-resistor-or-many/ I would also recommend asking advise from the guys at modeltrainsoftware.com Hope that helps
I think I once mentioned using something like an Arduino Nano to control your lights, since then I’ve been playing with with some radar modules to trigger the Nano that are very small and cost about $1.30 each and are amazing. They have a 16-23 ft range and can see though walls and would add to the life of your models since you could have them come life when someone gets near. You do not need specialized leds for effect with a Nano and could even in incorporate SMD LEDS. At my age I don’t really have the patience and/or manual dexterity to get to your skill level but I may put one together with radar and a Nano since the effects just might mask my lack of building skills
With a Nano you can take the pulse trigger and do much with it. The nano itself will control a number of LED's with any effect you can think of. If your not familiar Arduinos there is a ton of help all over you tube and the net. Most of the time I will copy a program and then edit to fit my needs as that can save a lot time . there are even smaller arduinos than the Nano but its what I mostly use.www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0732VQ4Q2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1www.amazon.com/Arduino-Board-ATmega328P-Without-Compatible/dp/B07XVYBR9Y/ref=sr_1_9?crid=1SSOMVYRSF939&keywords=arduino+nano&qid=1581353933&s=electronics&sprefix=arduino+nano%2Celectronics%2C168&sr=1-9
Fabulous videos! Thank you. Question: With the 9v battery set-up you showed towards the end of the video, where is the resistor? You have it in the diagram. Don’t you need one when using anything more than 3 volts? All your information is much appreciated!!
The prewired resistors are all located adjacent to the bulb. Yes you do need a resistor on anything greater than a 3V. To make things simple for me I keep with the prewired bulbs although if for any reason you want the resistor separate you can request modeltrainsoftware to send it apart from the bulb.
These are terrific videos. Question for anyone who knows about wiring. How long do the batteries last when leaving the light on for the model? Is it better to plug it into a wall outlet instead? I guess the advantage is not having to route your wire to an outlet everytime you are displaying your models?
Hi, plugging it into an adapter is always preferable if you plan on leaving it on for long stretches. I choose to use batteries for the very reason you mentioned, to avoid being tied to an outlet . Also, I don't turn on the lights that often. It is necessary to periodically check the batteries should you decide to leave them in so that you can avoid leaking as many of them can do over time. As for the battery's life time, it will depend on how many LEDs you have hooked up. If you have a specific project in mind, try contacting the guys at evandesigns.com (formerly modeltrainsoftware). They really are great at answering questions.
Your videos have been invaluable to me i am about to start a uss voyager. I know your video is a little old now and technology changes rapidly are there any tips or newer products you would suggest please?
I’d say the main thing that I’ve changed is a shift to using more SMDs since they’re great for small spaces. The only newer option I’ve come across, although not sure how “new” they really are. Just new to me. IL flexible light sheets. They aren’t highly recommended, however, by those who’ve used them. Apparently they emit a hum and life span isnt as long as LEDs but that depends on usage. I’ve also seen some modelers use Li batteries as power sources but that does take some to wire up correctly. Thanks for watching and for your kind words
Hey, I've been making 3D tin models and lighting them, I bought 9v batteries and they seem to power 2, 3mm LEDs for about a day of so at full brightness, then brightness drops off precipitously, I don't solder the connections; I twist and tape. Does this sound normal to you or is there something I can do to extend the lifespan?
Hi. I recently displayed my Mr Freeze figure at a show and it has about the same number of LEDs hooked to a 9V. The model was lit consistently for nearly full 2 days and the brightness did drop off. The room illumination was such that you could still appreciate the lighting even without full intensity brightness. I think that is about right. Given that I didn't use the best quality battery for the show, I was impressed it lasted as long as it did. I intended on bringing an extra battery but had forgotten to do so. This type of connection is pretty straight forward so I can't think of anything that might be causing any problms. One thing you may want to try is to use a higher quality battery?? I don't keep my models lit for extended period of times with the exception of model shows so this isn't usually a big concern for me. If you intend on doing so, you may in the future think of hooking them up to a plug in power source although I agree that would be a bit overkill for just a few LEDs. If you dont however, you'll obviously continue to be limited with what batteries can provide. Hope that helps.
@@InterstellarModeler Thanks for the detailed response! I'm totally new to this; could you explain what you mean by "higher quality battery" are you just talking about the brand or something more technical?
No one ever seems to talk about how to mount your model to a stand, while allowing for wiring for lighting. What options are there and what works best?
Good point. I left it out because I frankly didn’t have a good way at the time. A number of options available but I’ve found success in using brass tubing supported with 2 part epoxy putty. Drill appropriate sized hole in both the stand and model. Try not to have a lot of play. Secure by wrapping the 2 part epoxy putty around the post within the stand and inside the model. This will dry very firm and steady. Hope that helps.
Interstellar Modeler I found those tiny Leds you had on your series on ebay they are called 50Pcs Super Bright RED 0805 SMD SMT IC LED Bulb . . They are $1 for 50 If you search on TH-cam ( Wiring 0805 Leds ) This shows how to wire them up . Thought this would be useful to some
Hi there! I've just watched your video's and they are a great explanation of the led basics. But I'm having a question, or it is a second opinion, I think. I'm thinking of lighting a 1/50 scale model truck with smd lights. The idea is to use 25 of them, but what power supply would you recommend? And how would you wire them, at the back of the truck I've got 4 red lights, at the front 9 white leds and 4 orange leds (flashing), left and right 10 orange leds, 5 per side, in total 25. These leds are 2.8 v ~ 3.4 v at 15mA. Thanks!
I’m not able to give a detailed answer....Am traveling. But i’d run this by the guys at modeltrainsoftware.com. They’re really great at answering your questions.
But nothing is mentioned about multiple LEDS and what do you power them with and how do you link up multiple LEDS and what about the power source?...do I need an LED dtiver?...and why?...do I need a distribution board and how do I use it?....none of this is answered....
Thanks for your question. The most complicated model I've done to date is the 350 scale TOS Enterprise. This came with a lighting kit that involved the use of a board into which the multitude of LEDs were plugged into. Other than that the most lights I've put into a model kit is about 8-10?? I wired all of those in parallel hooked to one power source, usually a 9V battery. Here's a link that will help clarify things hopefully. My goal here was to provide some basic information. I've tried to make things simple for myself by using prewired LEDs and so far this has worked for me. Perhaps this article will be helpful with providing more detail for you, thanks. Here's the link: www.instructables.com/id/LEDs-for-Beginners/
well the problem is that the fiber optics were already snipped and are as short as they can go. If I applied another coat I would risk obscuring them. Appreciate the suggestion though
I rarely see this in use in model work, could be the buzzing sound. It could work well in like the ST Enterprise warp engines. th-cam.com/video/RJ2xGFfrND0/w-d-xo.html
I do it but it takes ALOT more work and an Arduino board. You can do so much with it .. fading, flashing, cycling, and wireless control. You can even make it respond to voice commands.
Thank you. I am trying to learn how to light some small assemblage art works. I asked at a local electronics shop but they had no interest in helping me at all. Your excellent set of 3 videos have given me enough information to get started. Much appreciated.
You’re very welcome. Thanks
I know this is late, but what I like to use to block light 100% especially on larger surfaces is aluminium tape. It blocks light 100% and has the benefit of being reflective. That means more light in the areas where you want it.
Thanks and yes you’re correct that is a great way to light block. Something i only recently tried. Thanks for the comment
Thank you so much I have been sweating about how to light a model I am planing to build and wow you have made the process so much more manageable brilliant ease to follow well explained well done.
My man, thanks a million for these fundamental but necessary tutorial vids. Been building models since I was a kid. I love my builds, but it's time to put some flare on them (blinking lights, spinning propellers etc.) Thank you for TAKING the time to explain it 🙏👍🤘
You’re very welcome. Glad you found the videos helpful
thanks for taking the time to make these. i feel way more confident after these three vids.
that Mars diorama is also really amazing. the color and surface texture look so real.
Rob skating thank you
Great series. My Titanic is on the way. Let's get started. Thanks for the info a reference to suppliers.
You're welcome. Thank you for your comment
Loved this series. Thank you SO much.
Thanks Lee. Appreciate your nice comments. Let me know if you need any further advice.
Great tips! I feel confident enough to light my eagle. Thank you Sir!
Great video, thanks for the tips.
Led tutorial series that starts off with a beautiful shot of the original Enterprise? Count me in.
This was a fantastic guide, thank you for doing this! Subcribed =]
You’re welcome, thanks for the compliment
This video is a great learning tool. Very helpful!!
Glad you think so, thanks so much
Thanks very much for the tutorials, lots of great inspiration and advice. Hoping to do my first lighting project soon :)
you're welcome. Glad you found these videos helpful
Wow thanks man, this was a good thorough series.
I was using a 9V and 3 blue LEDs to light the backside (drive) of a Millennium Falcon, and had drilled 3 holes in the back to let the LEDs protrude into the "drive compartment". That, of course, created 3 bright blobs and nothing else. Now I realize the LEDs should be inside the model, and many holes should be drilled to the drive compartment, so diffuse light bleeds through.
I don't know if it's possible to salvage the current build...
Great teaching! Now I know what to do and how to do it!
Glad it was helpful, thanks for the comment
What a great tutorial. Thank you. You've given me confidence that I can try out Leds on my Sci Fi models.
Russell Gosselin absolutely give it a try....you got this. Send me a pic of your first completed project. Would love to see it. Thanks for watching
Love the series of tutorials, helped me no end,......thank you
I wish I was as talented as you!!
you're too kind, thanks
Very enjoyable. Thankyou.
Great tutorial, thanks. I've just finished a model of a star destroyer using fiber optics for the lightning. To prevent light leaks I wrapped a small piece of black electrical tape around the LED and the end of the fiber optics. That blocks most of the light at it's source and one layer of black paint on the inside of the model is sufficient to block the rest of the light. By the way, my next project will be the TOS Galactica and I'm already greatful for your video of it's building.
Thank you and great light blocking suggestion. Thanks for watching, would love see pics of your builds.
I did a quick slideshow for you. Don't blame me for the video, I'm not an expert in video-editing like you ;)
th-cam.com/video/qFttQN39V7Y/w-d-xo.html
Light blocking now there is a top point for a beginner to know.
BEAUTIFUL WORK!!!!
Thank you!
Good series
Excellent tutorial. One of the very best regardless of subject matter. One question: How do you affix the LED and wiring to the model?
I'll watch the series once again to see if I just missed it. Nice presentation.
Many people use hot glue but I've been told that it could potentially damage the LED. I use superglue instead along with an accelerator like Insta-set. Secure the LED or wires in place with masking tape first then apply a drop of superglue followed by the accelerator. Blow dry or use a little compressed air (gently) to facilitate drying. Remove the masking tape. Hope that helps and thank you for your kind compliment.
Thanks for the video. When I'm the process do you drill holes for lighting? Before or after paints
You're welcome and thanks for watching.....I drill holes before painting.
@@InterstellarModeler Thanks for response! Subscribed! Are you using a dremel or little hand drill?
A gloss white finish will defuse the light better than a silver or chrome paint. Prop makers use white when lighting their work. Just my two cents. I hope it helps.
Excellent tip...thank you.
I want to light the Moebius Models Dawn of Justice Batmobile.I want to light the front headlights,the dash and a red flickering light for the exhaust to simulate flames coming out of the exhaust.I figured out how to light everything but I'm not sure what to use to power everything.After watching your videos I want to use a button cell battery with round switch that you mentioned at the end of this video.Where would be a good place to mount the switch and the battery and where is a good place for access to replace the battery when it needs to be replaced.Thanks for any advice that you can give me and I hope to get a response soon.
Hi Dan....I'm afraid I don't have a good answer. This would be hard to do and is something I really thought about. The problem is that there isn't a lot of room inside. Once the interior is installed there is very little room for much else which is why I ended up wiring it to the switch and power source externally. I would have preferred to make it self contained as well.
I am brand new to light and i have a kit with a single Street light that i would like lit. But i want to plug it into an outlet and add a light detector so it only pops on at night like a night light how do i go about doing this. If you could point me in the right direction i would much appreciate thanks.
Andrew PlantGollum i would contact the guys at modelttainsoftware.com. They sell the ac adapters but not sure about the nightlight feature. They no doubt would also be able to advise u there as well.
Great vids ! Question: how many l.e.ds can you hook up to a resistor or is it resistor per light depending on power source ..9 volt, 2AA×2, tripleA×3watch batteries (big flat ones) x2 ect ect any helpful suggestions? Thank you
This article may be of help: www.allaboutcircuits.com/technical-articles/led-arrays-one-resistor-or-many/
I would also recommend asking advise from the guys at modeltrainsoftware.com Hope that helps
👍 thank you
Is that right? the negative of the diode gets soldered to the positive of the next LED?
Sorry about the confusion....are you referring to the soldering demo? The wires you see were just used as an example for soldering. .
I think I once mentioned using something like an Arduino Nano to control your lights, since then I’ve been playing with with some radar modules to trigger the Nano that are very small and cost about $1.30 each and are amazing. They have a 16-23 ft range and can see though walls and would add to the life of your models since you could have them come life when someone gets near. You do not need specialized leds for effect with a Nano and could even in incorporate SMD LEDS. At my age
I don’t really have the patience and/or manual dexterity to get to your skill level but I may put one together with radar and a Nano since the effects just might mask my lack of building skills
Thanks for the comment Frank. Great idea. Where can you get a hold of these modules?
With a Nano you can take the pulse trigger and do much with it. The nano itself will control a number of LED's with any effect you can think of. If your not familiar Arduinos there is a ton of help all over you tube and the net. Most of the time I will copy a program and then edit to fit my needs as that can save a lot time . there are even smaller arduinos than the Nano but its what I mostly use.www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0732VQ4Q2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1www.amazon.com/Arduino-Board-ATmega328P-Without-Compatible/dp/B07XVYBR9Y/ref=sr_1_9?crid=1SSOMVYRSF939&keywords=arduino+nano&qid=1581353933&s=electronics&sprefix=arduino+nano%2Celectronics%2C168&sr=1-9
Fabulous videos! Thank you. Question: With the 9v battery set-up you showed towards the end of the video, where is the resistor? You have it in the diagram. Don’t you need one when using anything more than 3 volts? All your information is much appreciated!!
The prewired resistors are all located adjacent to the bulb. Yes you do need a resistor on anything greater than a 3V. To make things simple for me I keep with the prewired bulbs although if for any reason you want the resistor separate you can request modeltrainsoftware to send it apart from the bulb.
Thank you for your reply AND your informative videos! I will be heading to modeltrainsoftware.com!
Iva Wilcox you’re welcome, and definitely ask them questions as well. They’re pretty good at replying
Iva Wilcox excellent and I appreciate your kind comments, thanks
These are terrific videos. Question for anyone who knows about wiring. How long do the batteries last when leaving the light on for the model? Is it better to plug it into a wall outlet instead? I guess the advantage is not having to route your wire to an outlet everytime you are displaying your models?
Hi, plugging it into an adapter is always preferable if you plan on leaving it on for long stretches. I choose to use batteries for the very reason you mentioned, to avoid being tied to an outlet . Also, I don't turn on the lights that often. It is necessary to periodically check the batteries should you decide to leave them in so that you can avoid leaking as many of them can do over time. As for the battery's life time, it will depend on how many LEDs you have hooked up. If you have a specific project in mind, try contacting the guys at evandesigns.com (formerly modeltrainsoftware). They really are great at answering questions.
Your videos have been invaluable to me i am about to start a uss voyager. I know your video is a little old now and technology changes rapidly are there any tips or newer products you would suggest please?
I’d say the main thing that I’ve changed is a shift to using more SMDs since they’re great for small spaces. The only newer option I’ve come across, although not sure how “new” they really are. Just new to me. IL flexible light sheets. They aren’t highly recommended, however, by those who’ve used them. Apparently they emit a hum and life span isnt as long as LEDs but that depends on usage. I’ve also seen some modelers use Li batteries as power sources but that does take some to wire up correctly. Thanks for watching and for your kind words
Hey, I've been making 3D tin models and lighting them, I bought 9v batteries and they seem to power 2, 3mm LEDs for about a day of so at full brightness, then brightness drops off precipitously, I don't solder the connections; I twist and tape. Does this sound normal to you or is there something I can do to extend the lifespan?
Hi. I recently displayed my Mr Freeze figure at a show and it has about the same number of LEDs hooked to a 9V. The model was lit consistently for nearly full 2 days and the brightness did drop off. The room illumination was such that you could still appreciate the lighting even without full intensity brightness. I think that is about right. Given that I didn't use the best quality battery for the show, I was impressed it lasted as long as it did. I intended on bringing an extra battery but had forgotten to do so. This type of connection is pretty straight forward so I can't think of anything that might be causing any problms. One thing you may want to try is to use a higher quality battery?? I don't keep my models lit for extended period of times with the exception of model shows so this isn't usually a big concern for me. If you intend on doing so, you may in the future think of hooking them up to a plug in power source although I agree that would be a bit overkill for just a few LEDs. If you dont however, you'll obviously continue to be limited with what batteries can provide. Hope that helps.
@@InterstellarModeler Thanks for the detailed response! I'm totally new to this; could you explain what you mean by "higher quality battery" are you just talking about the brand or something more technical?
Could you tell me where you got those flickering LEDs? Thank you.
You can find flickering LEDs at evandesigns.com, lighthouseleds.com, or ebay. They come prewired. Thanks for watching
No one ever seems to talk about how to mount your model to a stand, while allowing for wiring for lighting. What options are there and what works best?
Good point. I left it out because I frankly didn’t have a good way at the time. A number of options available but I’ve found success in using brass tubing supported with 2 part epoxy putty. Drill appropriate sized hole in both the stand and model. Try not to have a lot of play. Secure by wrapping the 2 part epoxy putty around the post within the stand and inside the model. This will dry very firm and steady. Hope that helps.
@@InterstellarModeler Thanks!
On the LED's you should show which is positive and negative for those who don't know, and how to know read a resistor too. Maybe, on a future video?
centaur1a red is +
This is a fantastic series , hope you can expand on this in the future .
centaur1a you're absolutely right. Thank u
Interstellar Modeler I found those tiny Leds you had on your series on ebay they are called
50Pcs Super Bright RED 0805 SMD SMT IC LED Bulb . . They are $1 for 50
If you search on TH-cam ( Wiring 0805 Leds ) This shows how to wire them up .
Thought this would be useful to some
parabot2 are there any specifics that you'd like to see? Thanks
Hi there!
I've just watched your video's and they are a great explanation of the led basics.
But I'm having a question, or it is a second opinion, I think.
I'm thinking of lighting a 1/50 scale model truck with smd lights.
The idea is to use 25 of them, but what power supply would you recommend?
And how would you wire them, at the back of the truck I've got 4 red lights, at the front 9 white leds and 4 orange leds (flashing), left and right 10 orange leds, 5 per side, in total 25.
These leds are 2.8 v ~ 3.4 v at 15mA.
Thanks!
I’m not able to give a detailed answer....Am traveling. But i’d run this by the guys at modeltrainsoftware.com. They’re really great at answering your questions.
Do I secure lights in with glue gun?
You can….I usually use superglue these days to avoid possible damage to LEDs
But nothing is mentioned about multiple LEDS and what do you power them with and how do you link up multiple LEDS and what about the power source?...do I need an LED dtiver?...and why?...do I need a distribution board and how do I use it?....none of this is answered....
Thanks for your question. The most complicated model I've done to date is the 350 scale TOS Enterprise. This came with a lighting kit that involved the use of a board into which the multitude of LEDs were plugged into. Other than that the most lights I've put into a model kit is about 8-10?? I wired all of those in parallel hooked to one power source, usually a 9V battery. Here's a link that will help clarify things hopefully. My goal here was to provide some basic information. I've tried to make things simple for myself by using prewired LEDs and so far this has worked for me. Perhaps this article will be helpful with providing more detail for you, thanks. Here's the link: www.instructables.com/id/LEDs-for-Beginners/
Surely a few coats of paint on the outside of the Galactica will solve the light problem.
well the problem is that the fiber optics were already snipped and are as short as they can go. If I applied another coat I would risk obscuring them. Appreciate the suggestion though
I rarely see this in use in model work, could be the buzzing sound. It could work well in like the ST Enterprise warp engines. th-cam.com/video/RJ2xGFfrND0/w-d-xo.html
thanks for the link
pity these are always powered by a battery,,,, a usb plug would be good
I haven't seen it yet but I'm sure there's probably a way to do that, or will be. Thanks
I do it but it takes ALOT more work and an Arduino board. You can do so much with it .. fading, flashing, cycling, and wireless control. You can even make it respond to voice commands.