4 wheel drive mower end of mowing season review. How'd it do?
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 17 ก.พ. 2023
- This is a overview of the performance of the my 4 wheel drive mower this past year. Find out what works and what needs improvements.
Link to plans and wiring diagrams
drive.google.com/drive/folder...
Giter Bilt - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
Man that is me cool build! Thank you for the follow up. I want to build something similar but with RTK GPS
Thanks for the update! Great inspirational work
This thing is awesome. Should make an attachment for a snowplow and maybe even a hitch to pull a seeder. Nice job!!
Great videos. I am following your example making my own 'Poor man version" using same model of Toro but only 12Volts two motors so far. No welding capabilities. Just learning.
Thanks for your videos and diagrams
Glad for your success with this project, and glad you shared, very cool thank you
Thanks for watching!
So awesome!!!!
hello, nice project.
I wanted to build one, I would like to know the list of parts needed to build it, only I want to build it without the front bar moving, with only the motors for the wheels.
To do it as I said changes something at the level of the electrical scheme?
On you filter. You may want to think about attaching a dome or spike under the dust filter. The vibration of the device will help sluff off the dust. It beautiful build.
Thanks for the tip!
Mr giterbilt anazon finally made the 20 mile trip from their warehouse to my home with those items and i plugged them in and when i switch channel 6 switch A on the elechawk turns solid red and both leds light up
Next step, disconnect all wiring from the contactor. Connect the 8A Electhawk power in red to +24v and black -24v from the battery. Connect the power out + and - to on a voltmeter set to DC voltage. Connect Electhawk RC cable to channel 6 on receiver. Test channel 6, switched on the voltmeter should indicate the voltage of your battery voltage. If you get the voltage reading of your battery, connect power out + and - to small contactor terminals. Test channel 6 on will click. When you have achieved this let me know. I now have two dual wiring diagrams, V2 where one saber tooth controls the left side motors and one controls right. The V2.1 diagram the S1 on each controller controls the left motors and s2 controls the right. Someone pointed out the confusion on where motors were located , so I specified the location. The diagram with the one controller each side using same channel, is the less confusing diagram. Choice is yours, let me know which one you want to use as we go forward.
Power in is 25.4v and i have never had a 2x32 controller but i have tried two elechawk switches
Previously i had just one 2x60 controller and everything worked fine until i added the second controller im not sure why
Great project. You shouldn't go with li-ion battery pack and definitely go with two controllers one for each side. You will feel the power off 4x4. Goes like a tank 😀
Love your Build Sir! One of the best & cleanest conversions i've seen yet!!
I am about a week out from finishing up a 30", Tank drive mower & was wondering how those flyback diodes are working for you? And do you have a schematic showing the diodes?
I mean, it looks like one is across A1 & A2 of the power contactor, and one on the coil for said contactor...Just trying to verify size & that and if your happy with it..
Sabertooth is kinda vague about using the "P" terminal and I couldn't really find many people using diodes.
BTW....My solution to your tywrap, is an arduino contactor wired in parallel with an E-stop button to complete the ground circuit. But a simple RC switch to a contactor would do the same thing.
If you're not using the Blade brake, which it doesn't look like you are.
Saw another fella use small servo 0-90º as a latch so it could be killed remotely as well.
Thanks for posting your work! Well done!
Hi SuperDave, I just read your comment., sorry for the delay. There is a link to the schematic wiring diagram in the description. Diodes are Schottky Barrier Rectifier Diodes 5A 60V. The diode on motor controller was recommended by Dimension Engineering. Diode on the contactor is just standard practice for a coil used in electronic circuits. When a coil is deenergized the collapsing field creates a voltage spike that could be harmful to circuits associated with operating the contactor. I haven’t damaged any electronics, so they are doing their job. Better safe than sorry. Thank you for the information on the mower kill circuit. Looking forward to seeing your build!
I tried that but the elechawk just flashes i think the elechawk has some issues i will replace it tomorrow
I appreciate you sharing your very detailed rc mower build and even your results using it. I found these videos very helpful. I do have one question that you might have answered already but I am still unclear on. Do you only charge your batteries with the on-board alternator or do you have a charger (plug?) or remove the batteries to charge them. Thanks in advance.
Thanks for the compliment. After mowing about 1 .5 hours and 1/4 mile round trip to my shop, the batteries are 1.5 volts less than full capacity. I recharge after mowing with a 24V battery charger which I connect to the positive and negative terminals on the alternator. It takes about 15 minutes to fully recharge. The alternator only extends the run time, it will not charge more than the average discharge rate of the electric motors. I have stopped mowing and let the mower run to recharge the batteries, takes less time than the charger, it charges rather quickly.
@@giterbilt5146 Thanks for your info and super quick reply!
Hello again mr giter bilt i was wondering if you have converted your mower to the dual 2x60 conrollers yet i have ordered a second 2x60 for my machine . i have also discovered when mine high center all the power goes to one wheel which is no good for the hilly yard i have i am going to build anoher box to hold the second one and hopefully it will solve these issues thanks again for all you good work
Hey Danny, no I have not done the 2 sabertooth controller upgrade 😕. Let me know how it turns out (I’m Jealous).
With the two motors running off of one channel do you think if they were wired in series this could fix the issue?
Hi Derek, to be honest I do not know if the motors in series would solve the problem. From what I have read about wheel driven motors in series the same problem would occur, the wheel in the air would spin at maximum current and the wheel on the ground has minimal torque. If you have any links to information where someone has experimented with the wheel motors in series, please let me know.
Great build! I'm interested in how well that alternator performs and how much power it saps from the engine. I'm still contemplating if it's worth installing on my build or not... Got any advice on that? As in how much run time do you actually get from having an alternator vs not having one..
Thanks in advance!
Hi GrapePie, I say it does have an added benefit and is worth the hassle of engineering it into a mower build. The following is an estimate of power usage. I have 4 motors with an average power consumption of 600 Watts (1/2 of max 1200W) each, 2400W total. The 24v batteries have 70 Amp Hours totaling 1680 Watt Hours. 1680WH/2400W=0.7 hours run time. So, theoretically the mow time would only be 42 minutes. After 1.5 hours of mowing my digital battery charger indicates 80% charge and takes about 15 minutes to a full charge. As for the alternator draw on the motor that’s a hard one, I’ve never run without it and can’t tell if is having an effect on motor performance. Given the run time without the alternator of 0.7 hours, and a battery capacity of 80% at 1.5 hours the alternator theoretically supplied 1,344 Watt Hours and 56 Amp Hours of additional power. Which is a continuous current draw 5.6 AMPS=56AH/10. The divided by 10 is the conversion of Amp Hours to Amps. An alternator uses 1 horse power for each 35 Amp draw. If we divide 5.6A by 35A it would be 0.16 Horsepower loss on average. My mower has a 4.8HP so the calculated loss would be negligible. I have no clue why the alternator does not charge the batteries to 100%.
@@giterbilt5146 Thank you! This is very informative. I plan on using 300W motors so my power draw should be quite a bit less. I'll think about adding the alternator, however I'll definitely go with 2 motor controllers!
Here from the other video comment section. Thank you for sharing more details. Do you have any thoughts on why the alternator isn’t able to charge to 100%? Is it some kind of battery protection kicking in or alternator rpms not reaching high enough?
@@ajaxmuchacha3758I this is a scientific wild as guess, alternator is probably not spinning at a high enough rpm to produce max amperage.
check out "ardupilot rover" it's a hybrid between autonomous and remote control. You mower will because a big CNC. You program the path to take with RTK GPS. You already did the hard part and you only miss the pixhawk and RTK GPS
Thanks! Cool technology.
Im just stumped at how you connected a alternator to the motor..
I show how it’s done in my build video, here’s the link th-cam.com/video/ZIBI8zOR1_M/w-d-xo.htmlsi=oxBltOtT3OXaUNJY
Well sir, i have now replaced the elechawk, the receiver, the solenoid, and today i tried a new transmitter still flashing elechawk no power to anything else all wiring has beed replaced and checkef against diagram today i will test each controller but i dont think they are the problem because there is no power to them
Hi Danny, the problem has to be in the transmitter/receiver. You said you had a successful bind, if the LED on the receiver is red, then check the switch configuration for the channel you are using for the electhawk. Here is a link to a guy that shows you how to do this better than I can th-cam.com/video/JZQoHmLqZYg/w-d-xo.htmlsi=YlTNOWARPASlUGLm. If it still does not work try moving the elechawk to a different channel. I know how aggravating trouble shooting can be, if this does not work let me know, and I will see what else can be done.
Mrgiterbilt I am finally changing to two 2x60 controllers I have done the install and am working on the wiring I have a question on your diagram you are showing red black and blue wires from the fly sky receiver and mine has red black and white wires should I assume the blue and white are interchangeable..?
Hi Danny, yes signal for both S1 and S2 is white, Black goes to 0V on each controller. Red is not used if you are using a BEC to supply the 5V to the RC receiver. The magenta and blue color in the diagram is white, I could not use white to show this because the sheet is white. If you not already using splitter cables, here is a link to the cables I plan on using eventually. www.amazon.com/Connector-Splitters-Extension-Compatible-Airplanes/dp/B09PRBC4F4/ref=sr_1_1?crid=KYLVDXE5ONRI&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.Zj28zi_72jjDGOCW_xQVdbmiFk1qM7LQNUjqeafGOg5QQ-vIiT798SVi_rOktiKdztCxfM6rL7o47glNyHtpTtXyLi5QjdPitfuicMJ20yyoJB3_IwTrZrOrDkfex3Mb3SZioySnBBUzzNprIsqOlMLI5JSzWdYJMb_I0KxPcrsY9KesoGTtphCssGIxk1X9kTaaaQl1stpajmalAcesqMvnjC_vhx3mnqVGu1RcaM4.ogm4xoHxm1sptNpVqEtnOrD1d6cLYQJQAUY8_5JftmQ&dib_tag=se&keywords=red%2Bblack%2Band%2Bwhite%2Brc%2Breceiver%2Bsplitter%2Bcable&qid=1715215737&sprefix=red%2Bblack%2Band%2Bwhite%2Brc%2Breceiver%2Bsplitter%2Bcable%2Caps%2C218&sr=8-1&th=1. Wish I had the time to upgrade mine, I’m jealous. Let me know how it turns out.
I will sir i have made all the changes so far but when i turn it on i see the elechawk flashing blue and i have nothing which makes me think i may have loosened one of the wires to that switch
One other thing should the dip switches on both controllers be the same as with just one?
@@DannyThompson-gl7kn they should be
I have checked all the wiring connections and they are good. When i turn on the key the elechawk starts blinking blue and when i activate ch6 nothing hapoens before with one controller everything worked as it should just in case i ordered a new elechawk switch maybe that is the issue i do know the solenoid isnt getting current from the elechawk
Hi, I'm based in the UK and have a property with about 1/3rd acre with nearly 30 degree slope. I've started to build a 2 motor unit following the Brain Bailey tracked mower. I can handle I hope the build of the machine but I have no idea about how to incorporate the RC and electrical side of things. This looks highly complicated! HELP...
Hi Andrew, there is a wealth of information on the internet and TH-cam on this subject. Start by using the search phrase “Step by step instructions sabertooth rc motor controller”. You will definitely find information that will guide you in the right direction. There is a link in the description for wiring diagrams that were used for this rc mower.
@@giterbilt5146 Thank you so much for your speedy response. Do you use a 12v alternator to charge the batteries when in motion? How do you wire the alternator up? Or is it a 24v alternator?
@@agbowley 24V 65 amp alternator, read thru the comments on all the mower videos, you might find something that will be helpful
@@giterbilt5146 Hello again. I've had the chassis with RC attached and all seems fine so I'm now about to attach the mower part to the chassis. I've bought a 24v alternator which sadly didn't come with pulley or fan so I hope to gather those essential bits over the next couple of days. Once I get that all coupled up I'll cut some grass on our fairly easy lawn. The 30 degree slope is currently covered in primrose plants. Once they go out of flower I'll fit the tracks over the wheels and see how I get on cutting the slope - watch this space!!
I made those connections and i am not getting 24v when i switch on chan 6 the voltage varies between 3 and 7 volts
Check the power in + and - voltage. It should be the voltage of your batteries, somewhere above 24v dc volts. If it is then power out should be close to the same voltage. You have tried multiple Electhawks, so the problem must be in the way the power in and power out are wired. Didn’t you have the same problem with the 2x32?
Update i ordered another elechawk switch and placed it in the mower now everything works i guess 1 good one out of 3 is good lol thanks for your help again
@@DannyThompson-gl7knI’m glad to hear you have it working!
Mr giterbilt im kinda at a loss for now i have checked every wire and all are according to diagram i have replaced the receiver, the elechawk switch, checked transmitter batteries and 24v batteries there is power to the receiver and it binds sucessfully but the elechawk still blinks blue which tells me im not getting any connection to it so it isnt powering the solenoid im out of ideas i did the start the transmitter first then powering the mower that made no difference Any ideas where i went wrong?
Hi Danny, I redrew the dual sabertooth wiring diagram a couple of week’s ago. Down load and use this version for troubleshooting, it is easier to read (also had a diode wiring mistake for regenerative power and motor ground wires going to wrong locations). The electhawk will not blink if it is communicating with the RC receiver channel used as a switch when the transmitter recognizes the receiver. To troubleshoot shoot this I would remove the RC cables to the sabertooth controller and leave only the power from the BEC and the electhawk connection to the receiver channel you are using to switch it on and off. Reverify transmitter setting for Channel that you are using for the elect hawk, also verify that the electhawk is plugged in the right receiver channel, I made that mistake before. These are the only ideas, I can think of. There should be no difference between the receiver/ transmitter connections and transmitter channel setups you used with the single 2x60.
Is the new diagram found in the end of year post or is it somewhere else?
Also i disconnted both controllers and it made no difference the elechawk still blinks
@@DannyThompson-gl7kn here is a link to the latest wiring diagram drive.google.com/file/d/1ZchiR1uzUjb4cYra8jw7USUaQEfVVcMz/view?usp=share_link
First of all thank you for helping i have watched the video of the transmitter setup several times and i am checked my setup i tried to connect it to channel 5 switch A and it still made no difference as i said i purchased a new transmitter ; new receiver;new solenoid;new elechawk; all new wires and configered like the new diagram with the exception of an alternator which i am not using
Any plans to make this autonomous?
Not at this time
Hi would you be able to help me with building a frame with wheels without the lawn mower function. Happy to pay for your time and materials. Working on a project and love your design this would be ideal for my project thank you
Hi what’s up, unfortunately I do not have the time to devote to an another build.
@@giterbilt5146 Thank you for coming back to me, would you be able to provide a list of part, only need to motor for the wheels, and the electrics, I downloaded your plans and working on a frame :) will show you my progress soon thank you love this project.
@@whatsup3358 I wish I did have a parts lists that would help people like you with their build. Gregor Kobetic has a video on motors that may be helpful, plus some great information on building a RC Mower. The biggest hurdle for most people is wheel hubs that attach directly to the motors. This was a big problem for me also. Here is a link to motor wheel combination that could work. These are brushed motors that will connect directly to a sabertooth motor controller. The joystick is not needed. www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806084232655.html?src=google&src=google&albch=shopping&acnt=708-803-3821&slnk=&plac=&mtctp=&albbt=Google_7_shopping&albagn=888888&isSmbAutoCall=false&needSmbHouyi=false&albcp=19235666539&albag=&trgt=&crea=en3256806084232655&netw=x&device=c&albpg=&albpd=en3256806084232655&gad_source=1&aff_fcid=6dacd2df1f8c4fc4b066e92bfa034ba3-1714222836070-09136-UneMJZVf&aff_fsk=UneMJZVf&aff_platform=aaf&sk=UneMJZVf&aff_trace_key=6dacd2df1f8c4fc4b066e92bfa034ba3-1714222836070-09136-UneMJZVf&terminal_id=66749f54600d4b4c9fae0da09439ac79&afSmartRedirect=y&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa. I have schematics for the electronics on my google drive which indicate electronic components used. Good luck with your project, I look forward to seeing the finished project.
@@giterbilt5146 thank you for this I will get the frame made and workout the mounting for my device, thank you for the wheel link