One of the challenges that I had with seizing the side stay to a dead eye was that the dead eyes need to be aligned with each other, ie, the same distance apart from the matching deadeye, and on a horizontal line with the others. My first boat, they were all over the place. It occurred to me that, when the line trapped by the loop just starts being pulled underneath the wrapped lines, the seizing isn't very tight yet. At that pont, the wrapping is secure and won't come undone; but I can move the lines to either raise or lower the deadeye. I tried this, it worked. In fact, I found that I could seize the line without the deadeye in place, leaving a very large loop, and then put the deadeye into the loop. That saved me from the fiddly part of stopping the deadeye from falling to the floor whilst I was starting the loop.
What I don't see is how to wrap the thread around the block. Do you glue it in the groove, I've tried just a drop of glue where the ends of thread meet, but I've still had the block slip out after being seized, and it is impossible to do the seizing when the thread ends are hanging loose. Thanks, Norm
Very nice. I was wondering if you use the same technique if you needed to do another one on the same line further up? Or is it a bit different because of not having the block to hold it in place?
Hi, may I ask what glue did you use on the seizing part of a block? It doesn't look like CA. I usually use CA, but the turn to white when dry. Not very clean.
In olden days the ships standing rigging was subject to rot due to the elements. So all the Stays & shrouds were covered in pitch & tar to prevent them from the sea air. These lines were thicken & blacken . On models, this effect can be duplicated by blackening the lines with ink & then running the line to cover it with Bees wax.
One of the challenges that I had with seizing the side stay to a dead eye was that the dead eyes need to be aligned with each other, ie, the same distance apart from the matching deadeye, and on a horizontal line with the others. My first boat, they were all over the place. It occurred to me that, when the line trapped by the loop just starts being pulled underneath the wrapped lines, the seizing isn't very tight yet. At that pont, the wrapping is secure and won't come undone; but I can move the lines to either raise or lower the deadeye.
I tried this, it worked. In fact, I found that I could seize the line without the deadeye in place, leaving a very large loop, and then put the deadeye into the loop. That saved me from the fiddly part of stopping the deadeye from falling to the floor whilst I was starting the loop.
What kind of ratcheting hemostat is able to grip such a wide object without crushing or denting it?
What I don't see is how to wrap the thread around the block. Do you glue it in the groove, I've tried just a drop of glue where the ends of thread meet, but I've still had the block slip out after being seized, and it is impossible to do the seizing when the thread ends are hanging loose. Thanks, Norm
Very nice. I was wondering if you use the same technique if you needed to do another one on the same line further up? Or is it a bit different because of not having the block to hold it in place?
Very nicely done.
Will the glue work if the threads are waxed?
A fly tying vice would make it easier to hold the block.
Hi, may I ask what glue did you use on the seizing part of a block? It doesn't look like CA. I usually use CA, but the turn to white when dry. Not very clean.
I use a touch of matt clear varnish instead. Dries clear and cements the knots great.
Great tutorial. Thanks so much!
Thank you for showing me
This was great. What type of glue did you use ? I find that CA is not that good to work with.
The last touch with fingers is the one makes the ca looks matte..
Thank you for this video.
What is the purpose of the running the string thru the bees wax?
***** Thanks for the tip
In olden days the ships standing rigging was subject to rot due to the elements. So all the Stays & shrouds were covered in pitch & tar to prevent them from the sea air. These lines were thicken & blacken . On models, this effect can be duplicated by blackening the lines with ink & then running the line to cover it with Bees wax.
Very helpful - thanks for sharing
Superb thanks
Nice way to do that. Thanks!
good job !
What did u do with ur nail.? Nasty wound eh. Iv done same thing a few times. Bless you my freind.
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thanks
SEE ZING