While I’m not planning on any shipbuilding it is entertainment enough just to watch your meticulous workmanship; inspiring. When you’re all done I’d be curious to know how much time you’ve put into this model (?) not including the component of making the videos (also deftly executed).
That would be interesting Paul. If I have the time spent making each video, that would leave just the modelling part and should approximate how many hours it took to build.
I imagine that instead of a toothpick to dab spots of pva on to attach the lines, you could use thinned-down pva and brush it on, for less blobbiness 🤔
You could try that… however Selly’s Aquadhere PVA is very watery and dries completely clear, so I have never had an issue using it. Your glue may differ.
If you cut a slit in the top (like the kind on a spool of sewing thread), you can put the string through the hole then just wedge the it in the slit without having to tie it. Of course, it might not work, so it needs experimentation.
Captain that could damage the shroud as they need to be longer to tie to the mast. What I do now, after much experimenting with my tool, is gather the shrouds through the top hole then use a clip to hold them in place with enough tension for the ratlines below to glue in place. I also now rubber band the Dead Run to the Rat Harps feet so it also pulls the deadeyes and shrouds down to keep tension. th-cam.com/video/k02lw0KHnRQ/w-d-xo.html
H ❤ you build the subjects and I drool in exitement over your trials and tribulations 😊Me awaiting a 3 room apartment so as my felines do not get entalgeled in anything 😊 😊
Ok then I won’t tell you that LOL. No, it was used to wipe up some excess wood wash paint from the deck planks. I will promise to use a clean one in future.
Hey mate love it! Instead of wrapping around the harp coyldnt use just wrap around harp only having string on the one side? Just thinking of the waste of the non touching side 🤔
Hopefully you get what i mean. If you made the pointy bits longer so you go over the front and the pointy bits you just go behind then up to next divot pulling string back the otherway on front? The hobby needs more people like you showing us the tips and tricks and not squirreling the knowledge away
Yes you can do that with the Harp however, it is so much harder to keep the loops tensioned and invariably one previous loop slips off half way back, then you have to start again. I even deepened the grooves to try to solve this but every time I strung the harp a loop would come loose somewhere and ruin the wrap. This tool is very small and wastes only about a third of the thread you do with the Heller Loom. By winding around you keep a momentum tension so the harp stays rigged. I will keep experimenting, but for now that is the best solution.
Maybe instead of having groves on the harp you had a sort of hook that way you could loop it around the hook and then go to the hook above without the risk of it slipping off, then go across and around the hook and then to the hook above.
That is not the issue. You need to keep tension on the cordage or it wont hold together on the harp behind the shrouds or get knocked off as you insert it. Remember the ratlines are only a few millimetres apart, so any tiny hook would be so fragile that under tension it would snap off breaking your Rat Harp and making it useless trash. I have spent years perfecting this tool. By all means try out your ideas yourself on a 15cm long version with grooves 3mm apart, then see if it works your way. Or better yet, buy one and then see for yourself how easy mine works. Saving 10 cents worth of wasted cotton is not worth all the worry, believe me.
So this is only for 1/144 scale ships, Harry? If I get a ship model in a different scale, then I will need to wait till you design a Rat Harp and Dead Bug to fit that, right? 🤔
I have already made version for 1/72 down to 1/200 scale. Because it is a CAD drawing it can be quickly enlarged or reduced for any scale. That was why I wanted to stop making each one by hand, took over 4 hours to cut it out and score all the grooves. CAD and 3D printing means I can modify to any size or scale of ship quite quickly, then print out the result in minutes. On the website order form I ask the scale and name of your ship. From that I use one of my scaled templates in CAD and tweak to your ship’s measurements. houdinimodels.com/harp/
@@HarryHoudiniModels That’s awesome, Harry. I’m thinking I’ll start looking for a ship kit that really interests me and get your Rat Harp & Dead Bug for it. 👍🏻
After you select a tool and option then click Add, you will see the order / view cart window. Click Checkout, and on this page you add Make and Scale plus any brief comments about your model before going onto the payment windows.
I tried buying a set of these for my Revenge but it kept asking for a ships name, which I entered repeatedly, but wouldn’t let me go to checkout. Oh well, I thought it was a good idea, but I’m not going to beat myself up over a crappy website.
Your problem is the website clearly indicated if the ship name was not on the list to get a quote. I have been getting too many large scale wood ship kit orders who selected the cheapest option then order as Other. Email me your ship kits make and scale, then I will quote on CAD, 3D printing, and postage
@@HarryHoudiniModelsThe ship is an Occre kit (on your drop down list), the ship is the Revenge, (on your drop down list), the only difference is you have on the drop down list, 1/87 scale, but the Occre Revenge model is 1/85th scale. I clicked on all of the required info, but at the end it kept asking me for the name of the ship, which I repeatedly gave that info. I can’t seem to find your email address. What is it, please.
Sorry about that, it was an unknown bug in the order software. Thank you for the more detailed description which allowed us to track down the issue. Should be fixed now for scale and ship name. All my contact details are on the About Page of my website. You should be able to order now if you still wish to go ahead with the purchase.
I will add a large “Get a Quote” button on my checkout which will let anyone having a problem ordering to contact me directly. Thanks again for the feedback.
Er, Harry, with the rat lines you’re wasting more than half your thread. If you make your notches a little deeper and squarer, then instead of wrapping the thread around the back of the jig at an angle to go one notch up, why not just wrap around between two notches on the same side (left or right) to move up: then straight across to the same position notch on the other side (right or left), then round the back of the notches to the next one up, and repeat. All rat line threads on one side, and the risers only behind the notches. |________________ ________________| |________________ ________________|
I have done that with larger kits like the 1/100 Victory but have yet to make a video showing the technique. On smaller Rat Harps it is impossible to keep the tension so the whole rig falls apart. You simply cannot make the grooves big enough on a tiny tool. I have tried it. As for thread waste, my tool wastes much less thread than the old Heller ratline loom.
The beauty of the Beading Needle is that you don't need to... plus it goes through smaller holes without a knot and the thread is so easy to insert and remove
What a very clever model builder you are. Really impressive and great to watch even if I do not make large model ships.
Thanks David
Herry,
Great tools mate! Don't forget to add your logo. We would want any one taking credit for all that brain work. Hope all is well down under.
The production version do have my name on it, plus the scale and ship it fits, so I didn’t mix them up
You made that look so easy Harry, well done mate.
Thanks John 👍 the tools make it easy
While I’m not planning on any shipbuilding it is entertainment enough just to watch your meticulous workmanship; inspiring.
When you’re all done I’d be curious to know how much time you’ve put into this model (?) not including the component of making the videos (also deftly executed).
That would be interesting Paul. If I have the time spent making each video, that would leave just the modelling part and should approximate how many hours it took to build.
very nice one HH. Love this tool. Thanks much!
Glad you like it Mal
Fascinating to watch as usual, so much easier than the tiny wooden spacer I used in the past. You deserve a Bundaberg matey
Thanks 👍 make mine with sarsaparilla and a licorice stick!
great little tools there Harry i hope they sell like hot cakes for you
Thanks Sammy.. I have a dozen orders already so that was a surprise for the first week I put it for sale online
Now THIS is very interesting Mate! I Hope you are feeling well! How do i get this wonderfull toy? (Like joker said on Batman)..👍😊 want one
Thanks Alex.. just PM me on Messenger then I will send you one for your next build.
I imagine that instead of a toothpick to dab spots of pva on to attach the lines, you could use thinned-down pva and brush it on, for less blobbiness 🤔
You could try that… however Selly’s Aquadhere PVA is very watery and dries completely clear, so I have never had an issue using it. Your glue may differ.
How do you fit the dead eye strops after removing from jig ?
I show how that is done on this and the previous build video for my St Louis
th-cam.com/video/mC2BO3_sLh0/w-d-xo.html
If you cut a slit in the top (like the kind on a spool of sewing thread), you can put the string through the hole then just wedge the it in the slit without having to tie it. Of course, it might not work, so it needs experimentation.
Captain that could damage the shroud as they need to be longer to tie to the mast. What I do now, after much experimenting with my tool, is gather the shrouds through the top hole then use a clip to hold them in place with enough tension for the ratlines below to glue in place. I also now rubber band the Dead Run to the Rat Harps feet so it also pulls the deadeyes and shrouds down to keep tension.
th-cam.com/video/k02lw0KHnRQ/w-d-xo.html
H ❤ you build the subjects and I drool in exitement over your trials and tribulations 😊Me awaiting a 3 room apartment so as my felines do not get entalgeled in anything 😊 😊
Good on you Mikael…. at least I am not the only one drooling.
Please tell me you haven't used that cotton bud on your ear! 😂
Ok then I won’t tell you that LOL.
No, it was used to wipe up some excess wood wash paint from the deck planks. I will promise to use a clean one in future.
Professional
Thanks
Hey mate love it! Instead of wrapping around the harp coyldnt use just wrap around harp only having string on the one side? Just thinking of the waste of the non touching side 🤔
Hopefully you get what i mean. If you made the pointy bits longer so you go over the front and the pointy bits you just go behind then up to next divot pulling string back the otherway on front? The hobby needs more people like you showing us the tips and tricks and not squirreling the knowledge away
Yes you can do that with the Harp however, it is so much harder to keep the loops tensioned and invariably one previous loop slips off half way back, then you have to start again. I even deepened the grooves to try to solve this but every time I strung the harp a loop would come loose somewhere and ruin the wrap. This tool is very small and wastes only about a third of the thread you do with the Heller Loom. By winding around you keep a momentum tension so the harp stays rigged. I will keep experimenting, but for now that is the best solution.
Maybe instead of having groves on the harp you had a sort of hook that way you could loop it around the hook and then go to the hook above without the risk of it slipping off, then go across and around the hook and then to the hook above.
That is not the issue. You need to keep tension on the cordage or it wont hold together on the harp behind the shrouds or get knocked off as you insert it.
Remember the ratlines are only a few millimetres apart, so any tiny hook would be so fragile that under tension it would snap off breaking your Rat Harp and making it useless trash.
I have spent years perfecting this tool. By all means try out your ideas yourself on a 15cm long version with grooves 3mm apart, then see if it works your way.
Or better yet, buy one and then see for yourself how easy mine works. Saving 10 cents worth of wasted cotton is not worth all the worry, believe me.
@@HarryHoudiniModels i guessed their was a reason why. Keep it up looking giod
So this is only for 1/144 scale ships, Harry? If I get a ship model in a different scale, then I will need to wait till you design a Rat Harp and Dead Bug to fit that, right? 🤔
I have already made version for 1/72 down to 1/200 scale. Because it is a CAD drawing it can be quickly enlarged or reduced for any scale. That was why I wanted to stop making each one by hand, took over 4 hours to cut it out and score all the grooves. CAD and 3D printing means I can modify to any size or scale of ship quite quickly, then print out the result in minutes.
On the website order form I ask the scale and name of your ship. From that I use one of my scaled templates in CAD and tweak to your ship’s measurements. houdinimodels.com/harp/
@@HarryHoudiniModels That’s awesome, Harry. I’m thinking I’ll start looking for a ship kit that really interests me and get your Rat Harp & Dead Bug for it. 👍🏻
@@HarryHoudiniModels Where on website do you ask for name and scale. I want to buy for scale 1:48, Model Shipways Fair American
After you select a tool and option then click Add, you will see the order / view cart window. Click Checkout, and on this page you add Make and Scale plus any brief comments about your model before going onto the payment windows.
I tried buying a set of these for my Revenge but it kept asking for a ships name, which I entered repeatedly, but wouldn’t let me go to checkout. Oh well, I thought it was a good idea, but I’m not going to beat myself up over a crappy website.
Your problem is the website clearly indicated if the ship name was not on the list to get a quote. I have been getting too many large scale wood ship kit orders who selected the cheapest option then order as Other. Email me your ship kits make and scale, then I will quote on CAD, 3D printing, and postage
@@HarryHoudiniModelsThe ship is an Occre kit (on your drop down list), the ship is the Revenge, (on your drop down list), the only difference is you have on the drop down list, 1/87 scale, but the Occre Revenge model is 1/85th scale. I clicked on all of the required info, but at the end it kept asking me for the name of the ship, which I repeatedly gave that info. I can’t seem to find your email address. What is it, please.
Sorry about that, it was an unknown bug in the order software. Thank you for the more detailed description which allowed us to track down the issue. Should be fixed now for scale and ship name. All my contact details are on the About Page of my website. You should be able to order now if you still wish to go ahead with the purchase.
I will add a large “Get a Quote” button on my checkout which will let anyone having a problem ordering to contact me directly. Thanks again for the feedback.
Er, Harry, with the rat lines you’re wasting more than half your thread. If you make your notches a little deeper and squarer, then instead of wrapping the thread around the back of the jig at an angle to go one notch up, why not just wrap around between two notches on the same side (left or right) to move up: then straight across to the same position notch on the other side (right or left), then round the back of the notches to the next one up, and repeat. All rat line threads on one side, and the risers only behind the notches.
|________________
________________|
|________________
________________|
I have done that with larger kits like the 1/100 Victory but have yet to make a video showing the technique. On smaller Rat Harps it is impossible to keep the tension so the whole rig falls apart. You simply cannot make the grooves big enough on a tiny tool. I have tried it. As for thread waste, my tool wastes much less thread than the old Heller ratline loom.
@@HarryHoudiniModels oh well, worth a thought
I know you Aussie’s do things differently, but why not Knot the thread before you use the needle 🤔
The beauty of the Beading Needle is that you don't need to... plus it goes through smaller holes without a knot and the thread is so easy to insert and remove