Hi I've just completed a full belt change, due to snapped fuel pump belt. It turns over both manually and on the starter, but It won't start, could fuel pump be out 180 degrees? Thanks for the videos getting me this far.
Yes that is a possibility. Also it doesn't take much adjustment to go from running well to not running at all. You could try to move the pump about 1 or 2 teeth each way and see if it trys to start. Was it starting ok before the belt snapped? I ask as these engines really do need their glow plugs for a cold start. Could be a combination of week glow plugs and fuel timing just a bit too far off. A good glow plug should give a resistance reading of about 1 ohm on a multimeter.
Thanks for the tip, took a few attempts, checking tdc on flywheel each time and patience and perseverance paid off, she's running smoothly now. Just need to sort all "the old girls" other aches and strains now lol. Thumbs up to you mate.
I don't know of anything you can buy off the shelf so to speak. But i believe it is possible to have the standard pump converted to mechanical operation.
My '97 V70 main cambelt has failed due to a failure of either the idler or tensioner pulley, but the injection pump end is still intact so is still in time with the cam. In this case does it make any difference as long as I have the crank at TDC? Excellent video series BTW, I wouldn't attempt this repair without it. The engine was completely rebuilt 30k miles ago, so I would like to save it. I can only assume that the garage who did the rebuild either used pattern parts or re-used the old pulleys!
Hi Brian, it's a little difficult to decide how to proceed here, if you haven't done so already, I'd remove the engine top cover and the valve cover and look for obvious damage to the camshaft, tappets and valves, I'm sorry to say that you will likely find some, as this is an interference engine. If you are lucky enough to have escaped serious engine damage then you will need to carefully rotate the crankshaft and camshaft to get the timing right before fitting a new belt. This will not be easy as they need to be turned a little at a time each to avoid valve to piston contact, so do not force anything. The pump belt will have to be removed also I'm afraid as you will need to use the camshaft tool in the pump end to set the camshaft timing correctly. As to the actual failure, there is no idler on the main timing belt end, only the tensioner and the water pump, the water pump is known to seize and strip the teeth off the belt, or as you say cheep/reused parts are a possibility. Did the garage offer any kind of guarantee with their work? I'd be interested to know what you find under the valve cover and inside the timing belt cover. Hope this helps.
The Garage offered a 1 yr warranty, which has expired. I will do as you say regarding valves etc. I am hopeful as the car was idling at the time. The reason why I had the engine rebuilt was that the crank pulley came loose & spun on the crank which buggered the crankshaft. However it only bent 1 valve so I am hopeful that there will be minimal damage this time as well. I think it's worth a punt as the alternative is to scrap the car. Thanks for your help. Brian
![D5252T timing belt change part 3: [Basic / Rough] Injection pump adjustment. Volvo 850 S70 V70 TDI](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/JcqkmiuJZL4/mqdefault.jpg)
![D5252T timing belt change part 3: [Basic / Rough] Injection pump adjustment. Volvo 850 S70 V70 TDI](/img/tr.png)
![[안방1열 풀캠4K] 베이비몬스터 'DRIP' (BABYMONSTER FullCam)│@SBS Inkigayo 241110](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/AQ4RIghEvUs/mqdefault.jpg)
Hi I've just completed a full belt change, due to snapped fuel pump belt. It turns over both manually and on the starter, but It won't start, could fuel pump be out 180 degrees? Thanks for the videos getting me this far.
Yes that is a possibility. Also it doesn't take much adjustment to go from running well to not running at all. You could try to move the pump about 1 or 2 teeth each way and see if it trys to start. Was it starting ok before the belt snapped? I ask as these engines really do need their glow plugs for a cold start. Could be a combination of week glow plugs and fuel timing just a bit too far off. A good glow plug should give a resistance reading of about 1 ohm on a multimeter.
Thanks for the tip, took a few attempts, checking tdc on flywheel each time and patience and perseverance paid off, she's running smoothly now. Just need to sort all "the old girls" other aches and strains now lol. Thumbs up to you mate.
Hi yhere diesel bricks. What mechanical pump can I use on yhis engine
I don't know of anything you can buy off the shelf so to speak. But i believe it is possible to have the standard pump converted to mechanical operation.
thank you
My '97 V70 main cambelt has failed due to a failure of either the idler or tensioner pulley, but the injection pump end is still intact so is still in time with the cam. In this case does it make any difference as long as I have the crank at TDC?
Excellent video series BTW, I wouldn't attempt this repair without it.
The engine was completely rebuilt 30k miles ago, so I would like to save it. I can only assume that the garage who did the rebuild either used pattern parts or re-used the old pulleys!
Hi Brian, it's a little difficult to decide how to proceed here, if you haven't done so already, I'd remove the engine top cover and the valve cover and look for obvious damage to the camshaft, tappets and valves, I'm sorry to say that you will likely find some, as this is an interference engine. If you are lucky enough to have escaped serious engine damage then you will need to carefully rotate the crankshaft and camshaft to get the timing right before fitting a new belt. This will not be easy as they need to be turned a little at a time each to avoid valve to piston contact, so do not force anything. The pump belt will have to be removed also I'm afraid as you will need to use the camshaft tool in the pump end to set the camshaft timing correctly. As to the actual failure, there is no idler on the main timing belt end, only the tensioner and the water pump, the water pump is known to seize and strip the teeth off the belt, or as you say cheep/reused parts are a possibility. Did the garage offer any kind of guarantee with their work? I'd be interested to know what you find under the valve cover and inside the timing belt cover. Hope this helps.
The Garage offered a 1 yr warranty, which has expired. I will do as you say regarding valves etc. I am hopeful as the car was idling at the time. The reason why I had the engine rebuilt was that the crank pulley came loose & spun on the crank which buggered the crankshaft. However it only bent 1 valve so I am hopeful that there will be minimal damage this time as well. I think it's worth a punt as the alternative is to scrap the car. Thanks for your help.
Brian
You're welcome Brian, hope it works out ok.
hello can you tell me how can i son at boschpump point t4
Sorry don't understand the question.
The 850 engine is very deferent from this in the video
If it's petrol then yes it will be very different. The petrol is Volvo's own engine, this diesel is from VW.