Pretty damp good video. I have an LT35 and have been having issues with getting my pump timing correct. The ‘cloud’ feature on VCDS is something I’m looking forwards to utilising. Unfortunately LT35’s aren’t so easy to ‘set up’ as being rear wheel drive access for the flywheel and timing marks is a real pain when working on the floor. An inspection camera helps but a real PIA to set that up alone. I am now ‘armed’ with more information regards these things)I have ‘timed’ this pump at least 20 times.. long multiplication is a thing! Anyhoo thansk again..
The thing is, the whole point is the ECU does the pump timing. What we’re aiming to do here is get the base timing correct so the ECU has the most range to advance and retard it. As the belt ages it does drift anyway, it won’t matter to the actual running one bit.
Hello there, at approx 5.29 when you are adjusting the belt tensioner, you point underneath / behind the forward tensioner and say something like "The tang is in here" ....could you explain what you mean please?, thank you
I always had this anticlockwise and clockwise rotation on the injection pump. Anticlockwise rotation is like you rotate the pump towards the front of the car or towards the back of the car as you stand in the front of the car facing the engine?
@@theweekthatisis it possible to do the cambelt without doing the injection pump belt because the injection pump belt pulley needs to be removed in order to lock the cams in place or is there another way to lock the cams
The cam is locked unless you undo the Cambelt cam pulley bolt and strike the pulley off the taper with a punch through the hole. So it’s perfectly possible to do the cambelt without touching the pumpbelt by marking the cam pulley with paint. However, this is the wrong way to do it, it is not suggested by the factory manual, you’ll have incorrect tension, bad cam timing and bad pump timing. May as well do it correctly.
@@theweekthatis so the cam shaft must be locked with that plate at the injection pump side and the cam pulley must be loosen on the crank pulley side to run freely on camshaft when tensioning the cambelt
@@theweekthatis I've done this before, once, but I followed ETKA instructions which tells you to *first* set the pump lift, *then* set toothed belt on rollers etc.. I think it makes more sense to do it like you do...fit the rollers, fit the belt, set the lift, and finally tighten the sprocket. I don't have the that fancy counter hold and it is a pain and stressful without it. I don't dare tighten the thing to 160 nm with the pump locked. I do 60 nm or so, release the pump lock, and then go the full 160 nm. Unfortunately this made the timing out of whack. After turning the crank 2 turns the lift is too low at TDC mark. I fix this by adjusting the rollers and make sure I have 0.55 mm lift after rotating the engine. Then I'm ready for dynamic timing.
Not sure what more I can say, it was too retarded to begin with, I moved the adjustment roller clockwise to advance it and it was dead on. If I had moved the roller further clockwise it would have been too advanced. Timing on these is done with the dial gauge and accurate fitment of the pulleys and belts. The VCDS is only a fine tune-check.
You can’t do it without a scan tool. The fully mechanical pumps have a much more elaborate procedure to get it bang on with a dial gauge. I got it bang on with a gauge once, but I think that was luck.
Haven't got the scan tool atm a friend does so wil set at .55 on the dtc and hopefully thats not far off il get it plugged in ASAP after doing it. Cheers for the reply
Well I do have a diagnostic machine that can read live data but I'm pretty sure that's different to the vcds scanning tool? Will plug it in and see what reading I can find. Tha ks again
Thanks for the very good video and description , it helped to confirm and refresh my memory on this.
I’m glad it helped you!
Pretty damp good video. I have an LT35 and have been having issues with getting my pump timing correct. The ‘cloud’ feature on VCDS is something I’m looking forwards to utilising. Unfortunately LT35’s aren’t so easy to ‘set up’ as being rear wheel drive access for the flywheel and timing marks is a real pain when working on the floor. An inspection camera helps but a real PIA to set that up alone. I am now ‘armed’ with more information regards these things)I have ‘timed’ this pump at least 20 times.. long multiplication is a thing! Anyhoo thansk again..
The thing is, the whole point is the ECU does the pump timing. What we’re aiming to do here is get the base timing correct so the ECU has the most range to advance and retard it. As the belt ages it does drift anyway, it won’t matter to the actual running one bit.
Thank you sir!
Thank you!
hi i think i knock my timing out when changing the belt how do i sort it it with the crank pully it smokes white what have done wrong
Hello there,how are you a want to ask you gear timing bet how can we fix ? I sow your vedio but i can't understan please tell mehow can i fix??
Hello there, at approx 5.29 when you are adjusting the belt tensioner, you point underneath / behind the forward tensioner and say something like "The tang is in here" ....could you explain what you mean please?, thank you
Yes, there’s a little tang that protrudes from the baseplate that sits in a recess in the head.
@@theweekthatison closer watching of the video it is some sort of adjustment counter spring for that first belt adjuster, cheers
I always had this anticlockwise and clockwise rotation on the injection pump.
Anticlockwise rotation is like you rotate the pump towards the front of the car or towards the back of the car as you stand in the front of the car facing the engine?
It’s as if you are looking at the pulley face on, like a clock.
Hello sir,
If I change the timing belts, there is no need to work on the pump timing?
@@toun2963 you have to remove the pump belt to set the Cambelt timing.
What is cheapest vcds cable that will work
You don’t actually even need VCDS, just something that can put the ECU into basic settings and read the measuring blocks.
@@theweekthatisis it possible to do the cambelt without doing the injection pump belt because the injection pump belt pulley needs to be removed in order to lock the cams in place or is there another way to lock the cams
The cam is locked unless you undo the Cambelt cam pulley bolt and strike the pulley off the taper with a punch through the hole. So it’s perfectly possible to do the cambelt without touching the pumpbelt by marking the cam pulley with paint. However, this is the wrong way to do it, it is not suggested by the factory manual, you’ll have incorrect tension, bad cam timing and bad pump timing. May as well do it correctly.
@@theweekthatis so the cam shaft must be locked with that plate at the injection pump side and the cam pulley must be loosen on the crank pulley side to run freely on camshaft when tensioning the cambelt
@@ZanderDelport-s2i exactly.
Great video!
Thank you!
@@theweekthatis I've done this before, once, but I followed ETKA instructions which tells you to *first* set the pump lift, *then* set toothed belt on rollers etc.. I think it makes more sense to do it like you do...fit the rollers, fit the belt, set the lift, and finally tighten the sprocket.
I don't have the that fancy counter hold and it is a pain and stressful without it. I don't dare tighten the thing to 160 nm with the pump locked. I do 60 nm or so, release the pump lock, and then go the full 160 nm. Unfortunately this made the timing out of whack. After turning the crank 2 turns the lift is too low at TDC mark. I fix this by adjusting the rollers and make sure I have 0.55 mm lift after rotating the engine. Then I'm ready for dynamic timing.
Showing timing lines were vauge at best and too much explanation on how to tighten a bolt. So why skip important details and clear on basics???
I’m really sorry that you were disugsted with my explanation of the timing. I hope I didn’t cause you too much anugish!!!
Not sure what more I can say, it was too retarded to begin with, I moved the adjustment roller clockwise to advance it and it was dead on. If I had moved the roller further clockwise it would have been too advanced. Timing on these is done with the dial gauge and accurate fitment of the pulleys and belts. The VCDS is only a fine tune-check.
A problem for me.
SLM ustam TLF no
👍😎
🤓
Hi is there any chance tha you can do this without the dialing gaje
No. It’s a cheap tool.
amzn.to/490DhKH
If doing without vcds as i will be would i get away with settjng the pump to 0.58mm so slightly advance?
You can’t do it without a scan tool. The fully mechanical pumps have a much more elaborate procedure to get it bang on with a dial gauge. I got it bang on with a gauge once, but I think that was luck.
Haven't got the scan tool atm a friend does so wil set at .55 on the dtc and hopefully thats not far off il get it plugged in ASAP after doing it. Cheers for the reply
Well I do have a diagnostic machine that can read live data but I'm pretty sure that's different to the vcds scanning tool? Will plug it in and see what reading I can find. Tha ks again