I use my pocketknives for light EDC tasks, mostly opening packaging, so I prioritize them more like fidget toys that can cut. Therefore I value action, lock type, and deployment very highly. Obviously safety is important, but as long as the other categories aren't dealbreakers, I don't need much to cut an amazon box or open some food.
I love these philosophical videos. I'm currently collecting different blade steels so chemistry is ranking higher for me. Action also is very important to my collection. New locks will always interest me from an engineering perspective. Great video.
I love these kind of videos where we get to look at a lot of knives under the umbrella of an interesting topic. Obviously, my views vary a little but in general it's all as sound as a pound. Value for money is a difficult aspect to factor in but I'd imagine it's right at the top for most punters. I have a lot of slipjoints and they don't bother me if they're well sprung.
Ooh... been waiting for a video like this for a while from you... It'd also be interesting to hear how your tastes have changed / continue to change. God knows the knives I'm drawn to now are nothing like the ones when I originally started collecting.
I really enjoyed this video covering your pocket knife priorities! I have discovered some great tools by watching your channel. It’s funny how everyone will have different priorities for choosing a pocket knife. Mine are a little different but still somehow manage to lead me to some of the same knives as yours. Because I use my pocket knifes at work I will reject anything that is uncomfortable to carry in my back pocket while sitting on 120 degree gravel or has an edge that dulls quickly or is not generally rust resistant or will not easily cut some types of materials. Sometimes I will carry a different type of knife when I am off work. I like the Para3 with Maxamet blade (not really rust resistant but SUPER sharpness potential). Lionsteel Spyopera is ok for fancy dress pants (no clip showing). I wish I could afford a Peña knife for dressing up or even just find one available. My priority list is as follows; Function Ergonomics Durability Materials Aesthetics Function covers a lot of things you have broken down but I appreciate that about your approach. The blade should cut a variety of materials well. I like more slicey geometry and require the edge to be pretty durable. Fit and finish are covered here also as far as they concern proper function. Locking mechanism is an important part of function for me because some are a pain to disengage wearing gloves or left handed. If you have ever used your pocket knife while standing on a ladder with another tool in your hand these priorities would make more sense. Deployment mechanism is also an important aspect of function. I prefer; spydie hole, flipper, and automatic. I don’t really like thumb studs because they are uncomfortable and unsafe. I just don’t usually like the way it feels to place a somewhat pointy lump of metal on the top of my thumb to open my knife. It’s no problem in gloves though. I have several thumb stud knives come partially open while getting it out of my pocket. The stud can catch on my jeans pocket and hang up or start opening the knife. I hate that! I also like them when sharpening or cutting cardboard. Ergonomics covers a lot of ground also. How a knife carries in my pocket is really important as well as how it fits my hand during use. I like slim knives so they fit comfortably in my pocket while rolling around on the ground (I wrestle my kids and dogs and get down on the ground to fix things daily). This is why I liked the Para 3 better than the PM2. It carries a bit better and has no real drawbacks during use. Clips can be part of ergonomics depending on how they blend in to the grip or don’t. No hot spots and reduced snagging on clothing ant furniture are requirements. Durability is important because good tools can last a lifetime. I don’t really want to replace my pocket knives all the time. I really enjoy using my knives but when I see that one has a weak point that is starting to fail or I always have to adjust or tighten screws, it takes away from everything including my enjoyment. Rust resistance is part of this also because I sweat a lot and sometimes use my knife to fix sprinklers or tubing. I stopped carrying the RAT2 because I knew the liners were rusting under the scales. The CIVIVI Elementum has stainless liners. I want all the mechanisms to last a long time and be easy to maintain also. I feel like maintaining a knife properly has a lot to do with how long it will last. The easier it is to maintain, the more likely it is to get taken care of regularly. Materials are important to me in the way they impact every other category. Bronze phosphor pivots impact function and durability. The ceramic detent ball Spyderco put in the later Spydiechef is another example of how material selection can improve a knifes durability. Scale materials can affect; aesthetics, ergonomics, and durability. I like; micarta, wood, titanium, carbon fiber and even g10. Blade steel is something I nerd out on a little bit. I want it all! I hope I can get a good knife with the new Magnacut you mentioned in this video sometime soon. For now, I am using middle of the road S30V most of the time. I love Maxamet but not when water is involved.20CV seems really good too. Aesthetics are at the bottom of the list but still important to me in several ways. I hope to get a knife with all the above attributes and still like looking at it. Other considerations are it should not be embarrassing to whip it out and go to work. Sometimes a tactical looking knife could send the wrong message if you are using it to fix sprinklers. I got a PM2 in S110V partly because I liked the “blurple” color scales. The S110V blade steel turned out to be a win also. Fit and finish are related to this category as well. If the blade is not well centered it may not change anything but it looks dumb! Thanks again for what you do for us Nick!
about the teflon washers: i recently bought a boker+ lancer in m390/ti and i was quite surprised when i disassembled it and saw that it runs on teflon washers. it has one of the smoothest deploying blades i've ever experienced, really amazing.
I pretty much agree with your rankings. Fun video. I do beat on coldsteel folders and feel safe doing it. Sometimes you can't carry a large fixed blade in public so those fit in there. That said those are just tools to me. I love a good art knife that can be used for normal tasks and those don't need a triad lock.
For me the steel is interesting, but on an everyday pocket knife it’s not important .... we’ve managed perfectly well with 1095 and 440C for decades. The only “basic” steel I’ve had problems with is 8Cr13MoV. I’ve got a couple of knives in this steel that are razor-sharp, but I’ve got a couple that just refuse to take an edge and are basically just spoons! But this is not a problem with the steel itself... it’s a problem with the manufacturer of the knife.
Newbies - take note from Nick the master. If you follow a well thought-out process you will minimise the risk of buying a 'dud' knife (I don't mean bad quality - I mean a knife you just don't like or use for whatever reason & regret the purchase). I said minimise because we all buy a 'dud' every now & then!! I have a TOPS Operator 7 in my collection that regularly reminds me of this - great expensive knife for which I have absolutely no use. Thanks Nick - great vid.
I recognize the lack of love for frontflippers. But I appreciate them a lot for their easy carry: no thumbstuds that hook into your pocket or normal flipper that pecks your hand or other stuff in your pocket.
I don't get the front flipper hate at all. 'Boo! nothing chafing against my wallet/smartphone!' (shrug) But I mean, there was a time when pocket clips were considered an abomination too.
For me deployment type is linked to safety. When I was first getting into knives, and long before I discovered your channel, I was intrigued by automatic knives. Where I live (Canada) automatic knives are prohibited but assisted knives are not. I went to a sporting goods store and tried one. When I put just a little pressure on the stud it flew open whacking the counter leaving a mark just like you did. That pricked my bubble for ever owning either. I have never had this sort of a problem with a knife that required me to overcome detent, but it was a very real problem when little force was required. Plus, the potential for a knife to fly open accidentally in my pocket is a deal breaker. No auto or assisted knives for me.
I love collecting knives but I am at a point where there is so much out there that it is overwhelming and wondering what are the 10 or so questions to ask my self about what knife I want. We share similar priorities and you brought up stuff I had not thought of.
Nicely framed within Project Procurement Management detailing knife selection criteria, exclusion criteria and weighting. GOOD PROCESS -- GOOD RESULT. Thanks for sharing, Two-Watch-Greg Panerai 112 + Omega Seamaster p.s. Nice dot matrix printer. In the near future we will see 3D printed category labels.
🤣🤣🤣 Seriously, I love the graphics 😆. B4 i watch the video. I agree with all of your criteria, but i add one more when I'm choosing a knife.( New to collecting, 3 weeks). I also add , History. Edit: i saw you put aesthetic with history and designer. 😊 Maybe the maker, time period (ie. antique), history of how knife came about and what made it different. My first knife in hand was a Kershaw cryo. Inexpensive knife with Hinderer design and won an award. My second knife is a loveless drop hunter. History of maker and knife. I bought an AD 10 because, it's a folding pocket knife that you can literally use as a survival knife. And some of the things people have done to this knife in practical use impressed me. So, the video story of all around use was interesting to me Sebenza i think is my next knife, because of designer. Do you think I'm limiting myself? Thank you for your videos. So educational. ✌🏼🦁
Like the civivi you showed, I have a budget friendly Kershaw Tumbler, Sinkevich design, manual flipper in D-2 with G-10 and a thin carbon fiber inlay or veneer that I revere. Not because it’s expensive, but because it is comfortable and falls shut, stays centered and just looks cool. Oh yeah, it cuts like crazy. I dig it and it’s one of my least expensive pocket knives. Priorities can be very finicky for finicky people.
Regarding the action, where do you buy phosphor bronze washers to replace the old ones when they wear too thin? What’s the difference between phosphor bronze, bronze, brass, copper? Can the other materials be used instead?
One thing I’d be interested in hearing is where you place the designer-especially where you see a distinctive style (Anso/Voxnaes/Demko/etc) and a knife becomes “iconic” for lack of a better word.
I have 31 stitches from a Sabenza that opened in my front pocket.. I typically only carry backlocks or slip joints theses days . I've had more cuts from blades that don't stay closed than I ever have from a knife closing on me,
Exactly the reason I haven't shelled out the $250-$350 it takes to get a good one. It's in my budget but for those reasons they drop low on the "purchase someday" list. I'd love to own one, but as of now I'll stick with the Protechs and other, side opening autos. I enjoy carrying my Boker Kalashnikov more than I would a steep angle, double grind OTF. ( And honestly I think the blade shapes look cheap, especially with the cutout fuller down the middle. Definately the fault of cheap gas station knockoffs, but stuck in my brain none the less)
@@1980JPA well I own a Microtech Ultratech but it rarely gets used. It’s cool but definitely not a work knife. My Spyderco Para 3,PM2, and Manix 2 lightweight have awesome blade geometry and they see more pocket time than the Microtech does.
@@appalachiangunman9589 similarly here my para 2 and Manix ge the most pocket time with my Penguin and my m390 blade swapped Rat 2 as runner ups. All have geometries that are infinitely useful.
To comment on the Fit and Finnish concern you raised carries over to many other goods as G-Loomis fishing rods make a rod that costs $550-600 and the line guides are crooked but they say that it’s,” within spec.” As a custom rod builder, I can say that this should be #1 priority since it’s the most visible to the customer. The finished product is equally judged in form as well as function.
Work and non-work knife plays a part for me. I'm more likely to buy one I can use at work because 90 percent of my time outside my house is work or after work still in work clothes. I have evening and weekend knives that (lately while growing my remodel business) just hardly get an opportunity to be carried. I'm sure this balance will change later in life. But as of now this consideration is definitely in play before hitting "purchase". My priorities otherwise are similar to yours.
Thanks for another interesting video. Having watched almost every review of yours for several years, I am not sure your list entirely gets it. If you were just selecting a single knife, then this list might make sense. But I would actually separate this into two separate lists: Things that would prevent you from getting a knife and things that make a particular knife one that you would want to add to your substantial collection. So an unsafe knife, a knife with poor action, a poorly configured blade or a knife that will require frequent sharpening or is easily damaged, etc would all be reasons not to get a knife. If a knife checks those categories, i.e. nothing disqualifies it, there is still the question of what makes the knife worth getting? You have made it clear that you like knives that are “a bit crazy”- knives that are in some way innovative, do something different, or combine materials in an innovative way. You didn’t list innovation as one of the criteria, but from listening to you, that seems to be a major factor in what you add to your collection. You are not a “completist”- Some collectors what every Spyderco, or every CRK. You do seem to want an example of new ideas of technology (Shark lock, modern innovative slip joints, magnacut steel). So I would suggest that many of the items in your list, if negatively done, would be reasons not to get a knife, but that even doing those things well is not enough if the knife does not have some essence of being an exemplar of excellence or in some way an innovative design or use of materials. All the best.
I think it would be good to have priorities for knives in different categories, such as: every day carry, hard use, camping, salt water, and other uses.
I think that your "Blade" category should be expanded. Fidget factor is also a "thing". An interesting comment from another viewer relates to how our tastes change: big to small, black to other colours; folding to fixed, tactical to gentlemen folder, etc. There are also budget constraints... some of the knives you have shown must cost close or even more than $1000.
Practical effects is a dying but much appreciated filming choice! That said, I'm fairly confident that this video is CGI. For example: that backdrop looks suspiciously pristine and the stunts are way too dangerous.
4:30 I feel this exactly with QSP Your mileage may very but every QSP I've had (3 now) has had great centering, solid lockup, no blade play, and AMAZING action for the price. But the steel is always a dissapointment. In my experience QSP just doesnt do a good job heat treating their D2 and almost every other budget D2 knife outshines it in edge retention by a long way. I prefer the QSP Penguin to the Rat 2 and the Elementum in almost every way but I just dont find myself carrying it because the D2 is terrible, even after reprofiling and sharpening myself (they've always come from the factory with about a 300 grit finish on their edges its just ugly). Again, your mileage may vary but thats my experience.
never had one of their d2-knives since i hate that steel, but their 154cm is actually really good. i'd love to get the pelican and give their s35vn a try but i've heard stories that some of them are mislabeled d2. probably a mistake since they also made the very same knife in both steels, hopefully a one-off problem.
I have a Penguin in D2 and haven't had any real issues with the blade. I do have to strop it regularly though. That said, I also have a Penguin in M390 (from Knives Plus) and I haven't had to touch the blade after stropping it the day it came in. Big upgrade. Worth getting the M390 version if you like the Penguin.
@@coralinealgae Exactly this. I find myslef needing to strop the Penguin much more often than my Rat 2 or Elementum. I also find that after sharpening it just doesnt get quite as sharp as the others. I think the way they heat treat their D2 might just makes it softer than much of the competition. I hope for your case the M390 is the real deal. M390 is a great steel.
@@nickmanville900 I couldn't say if steel is not as nice as the Rat 2. My D2 Penguin gets very sharp, but I had to re-bevel the edge to get it really sharp. It came with a very high bevel, something around 25°. I gave it a 17-18° edge and it brought the blade to life. The M390 is legit, but I really should give it the same edge as my D2 model. Knives Plus also sold one with an s35vn blade last year that was super popular. They sold out 2 production runs. I doubt any of them are heat treated as well as high end knife makers. Still, I haven't seen complaints about QSP's premium steel knives. I also have a QSP Hawk in 14c28n that's pretty nice, though maybe not quite as nice as Kershaw's 14c28n. Might be a little softer, or it might be edge geometry.
My priorities have shifted quite a bit since I got started. These days I find myself prioritizing blade (specifically geometry/heat treat) and aesthetics above all else. Action used to be a big thing for me, but now I just want to be able to open/close it easily with one hand.
Very interesting topic.. for me. A modern pocket knife needs to be one hand friendly.. in and out of pocket easy. And open and close easy. . Blade is definitely important as well..
i prefer thumbstud or thumbhole and any other deploy method where i have the options to open the knife slowly without receiving panic stares from people
Safety is definitely important. Once you've had a lock fail and the blade fold up onto your fingers, you will never completely trust a folding knife again.
Hello sir I have a question for you that I can't seem to get answered I was gifted a zt 0308 but it has a liner lock and everyone I've ever seen was a frame lock was wondering if you could help or point me in the right direction thank you good sir or if anyone else knows feel free to let me know
Thick blades for hard use. Cutting through brush and small tree branches when camping. Prying things open…etc. some of us use the hell out of our knives. Cheers
My worst knife is a $4000 custom Todd Begg I just got from Arizona Custom Knives. It was supposed to be my grail knife and it wouldn't lock up. I tried to take it apart to see if I could fix it and it turns out the knife was made with loose bearings that poured out all over the table. Now it is a $4000 pile of shiny well polished pieces and I never want to buy another custom knife again. A total failure on safety, fit and finish, and action as well as ease of disassembly.
I got a para 3 lightweight from bladeHQ and at the time it was the most expensive knife I'd ever bought so I was super excited to experience the greatness of Spyderco. Then I got the thing and the inner edges of the plastic handles were super sharp and there was a bit of overmold on the very back of the compression lock cutout, there was also a small amount of blade play. I was so disappointed I sent it to them for warranty and they sent it back with absolutely none of the problems resolved. All they did was tightened the pivot way too much and sharpened the blade. I emailed them saying I was extremely disappointed and while I was at work that day they called me and left a voicemail that said the amount of "flex" on the blade was normal and that they'd love to explain if I have them a call but I just gave the knife away because the experience was so bad. That was a few years ago and I'm currently heavily considering buying a Para 2.
I've got a Para 3 LW as well. I didnt experience the overmolding or blade play you mentioned, but mine is WAY off center, It's as bad as the example Nick showed in the video. As for the PM2 its a great knife! But personally I think its priced way to high. You used to be able to find them under $150 all day and sometimes as low as $130 but these days they sell north of $170 even up to $200 for not even sprint run models and for that much money you can get things with blades in 20cv, M4, etc etc. I picked up a Benchmade Freek from my local sports store for $170 a few months ago! If you really want a PM2 go for it its a great knife, just know it isnt really great value anymore, and check local stores around you! Often times they have better prices than BHQ and Amazon and the like. Just my 2 cents. Happy collecting!
@@nickmanville900 sadly the two closest stores that sell them have them far over priced 215 at the local Cabela's and 270 at a nearby gun store. I think a big part of the price increase is that it's S45vn now which is one of the best all rounded stainless powdered steels.
@@Cadwallader38 Thats crazy! My local Sportsmans Warehouse (not sure if thats a National chain or just PNW) has the new PM's in S45VN at about $180. And I personally havent handled the new steel myslef but a source I trust immensly rates S45VN (when compared to S30V) as having slightly worse edge retention and slightly better corrosion resistence so I dont really buy it as a "super steel" I think they're trying to hype it up to drive sales with people who already own a PM2. I think the new steel is more of a sidestep and less of a real upgrade. The source I trust is Knifesteelnerds by the way. Check out their website, professional metalurgists/material scientists doing great stuff.
I am sorry to hear about your bad experience, The para 2 has solid steel liners so there should be no blade play. It’s handle is machined G10 so there should be no over-mold. The action is glassy smooth as well, and runs better than most bearings that I have seen. Spyderco is well known for their emphasis on blade performance and ergonomics above all else, not so much for their fit and finish unless you are buying the highest end knives from the Taiching plant. I am seeing PM2’s in S45 VN for $170 online so perhaps that is the way to go?
I'm not a really a collector but I do edc knives.The only signifigant difference for me was putting aesthetics lower. Knives, for me, are tools first and foremost so, while I'd prefer a knife that looks good, I'd put ergos, durability, maintainability, ect. way above it.
I started off thinking this is going to be the dullest thing Nick's done, but low and behold I got sucked right in and it was 100% on point, or at least I totally agreed which is slightly worrying.
Nick, there’s a vote going on in the Olight group Facebook page for best knife design. The winner gets their knife made by olight. Are you going to vote for any?
Hey Nick, great video. Hoping to get some insight - what do you do if you have a stripped screw? It's happened to me a few times, wondering if there's anything I can do or if I'm just (pardon the pun) *screwed*
@Sly Wolfe >> Most likely there is permanent loctite behind the screw; use a soldering iron-let it heat up to 500 degrees and give the stripped screw a few minutes to loosen up; then use a slightly bigger torx that best fits and loosen the screw; works great for me.
Use a cut off disc/wheel in a Dremel to cut a channel in the head of the screw that can then be used with a flat blade screwdriver. Drilling it out is another option.
Thanks for the suggestions! Unfortunately I have neither a soldering iron nor a dremel, so I'll have to see if I can borrow a friend's or commission someone to do it for me
If you're stripping a torx it's because you're probably using the wrong size head. People love torque because they rarely strip and the bitheads generally last a long time. However if the head is not a perfect tight fit in the screw it will strip it all day. Just coming from someone who installs staircases every week every week and goes through about a million torx screws a month. One something as small as T5 or T6 Modifying the head of the screw for extraction will be very difficult if not impossible. If it were me and I loved the knife and needed to get the screw out I would probably sacrifice the scales and cut them off that way you would have plier access to the screwhead. Scales are easily replaceable a $200 knife blade is not.
i've come into hard times like a lot of you, I've been collecting knives since I was 13 (I'm 30 now) and I came up short for and was trying to do anything I could to make it but I was still short by $200 and so it was the 1st of the month so I went to a pawn shop and they literally wanted to give me so little my more expensive knives that I had to drive home and grab two more knives so I could get to that $200 mark. I 100% intend to get them back but it was enraging to hear them tell me why my $200+ knives all in perfect condition were worth less than $50 each. I was in such a bad situation that I was afraid for them to not work with me at all I had to ignore her saying the prices she said she could find these knives at. She was saying that she found one of my limited run knives brand new for $140 and I know for a fact that it's never been on sale for more than $9 or so difference. I am ranting because my wife loves me but she does not understand my love of knives so she doesn't get why I cared so much about getting ripped off for those knives. ugh needless to say, first and last time I ever pawn something
@@michaelrogers6008 That's rough man, I hope it gets better for you. Look for knife trading groups on facebook and various knife forums, they will give you a better deal
Hinderer offers high quality Teflon washer knives. I have also handled samples of the Ontario Rat and CRKT Overland knives that had great detents and good machining, so they launched open and closed smoothly. But, they can be hit-or-miss at that budget level.
DO NOT GET INTO WATCHES!! But...I'd like to see the same type of ranking discussion for watches. Probably a different, though somewhat overlapping, list of attributes. (Might be interesting where "safety" falls). :)
I've badly cut myself on the back of the first CEO when it was close. I was just gliding my finger along the liners on the back (certainly checking how smooth they were) and *snikt* here goes the blood !
For me, opening either blade hole or flipper, I don’t like or keep anything else. Beyond that it just needs,as a whole be decent knife. Also designed for light to medium use.
I don't know how I'd rank these. There are too many variables. I would never buy another backlock, but otherwise, I generally don't care about the lock type. Aesthetics can be super important and yet I also love me some Spydercos....
Hi Nick, we are new Subscribers, & love your channel... It is entertaining & educational! Could you please send us a small knife with metal handles, suitable for engraving? We Thank You.
34:34 "bad safety kills the knife" no it kills the user😂 A little hint: you have to soft detent? Just make the knife carry tip down only so it won't deploy in pocket... The ENTIRE knife comunity loves tip down only knives...
Liner lock, frame lock, button lock, spine lock … what I need is a folding knife with an alarm that goes off when I absentmindedly put it in my pocket with the blade deployed. Call it an ADHD lock.
The laws regarding length of blades is just ridiculous to me. Anyone could kill/maim somebody with a 2" blade just as well as they could with a 3.5" blade. I can begin to understand not wanting people to be concealing a 10" pocket sword to the grocery store, but when you're getting into more EDC friendly sizes the difference in "danger" is really negligible. Same with the fact that I can't just buy an auto because I'm in Canada. What difference does speed of deployment make when it comes to safety? I can carry a fixed blade which I could have out and ready to get stabby much faster than an auto. 🤷♂️ so silly.
Hey nick I been watching your channel since it first started I love your voice and knowledge thank you was my inspiration to start collecting knives I actually purchased my first delica because of your video I am starting my own channel please check it out if you like it
My favorite knife brands is made by gun companies. I like Smith & Wesson but they only use 8CR13MOV. And I like Browning. They use D2 and 8CR14MOV and 12C27.
I use my pocketknives for light EDC tasks, mostly opening packaging, so I prioritize them more like fidget toys that can cut. Therefore I value action, lock type, and deployment very highly. Obviously safety is important, but as long as the other categories aren't dealbreakers, I don't need much to cut an amazon box or open some food.
And
@@1800moonSugar Ok and his comment is relevant to the subject of the video.
I collect watches, not knives, but your reviews are so much fun, I'll listen to you talk about anything! Thanks!
I love these philosophical videos. I'm currently collecting different blade steels so chemistry is ranking higher for me. Action also is very important to my collection. New locks will always interest me from an engineering perspective. Great video.
I love these kind of videos where we get to look at a lot of knives under the umbrella of an interesting topic.
Obviously, my views vary a little but in general it's all as sound as a pound.
Value for money is a difficult aspect to factor in but I'd imagine it's right at the top for most punters.
I have a lot of slipjoints and they don't bother me if they're well sprung.
Ooh... been waiting for a video like this for a while from you...
It'd also be interesting to hear how your tastes have changed / continue to change.
God knows the knives I'm drawn to now are nothing like the ones when I originally started collecting.
I really enjoyed this video covering your pocket knife priorities! I have discovered some great tools by watching your channel. It’s funny how everyone will have different priorities for choosing a pocket knife. Mine are a little different but still somehow manage to lead me to some of the same knives as yours. Because I use my pocket knifes at work I will reject anything that is uncomfortable to carry in my back pocket while sitting on 120 degree gravel or has an edge that dulls quickly or is not generally rust resistant or will not easily cut some types of materials. Sometimes I will carry a different type of knife when I am off work. I like the Para3 with Maxamet blade (not really rust resistant but SUPER sharpness potential). Lionsteel Spyopera is ok for fancy dress pants (no clip showing). I wish I could afford a Peña knife for dressing up or even just find one available. My priority list is as follows;
Function
Ergonomics
Durability
Materials
Aesthetics
Function covers a lot of things you have broken down but I appreciate that about your approach. The blade should cut a variety of materials well. I like more slicey geometry and require the edge to be pretty durable. Fit and finish are covered here also as far as they concern proper function. Locking mechanism is an important part of function for me because some are a pain to disengage wearing gloves or left handed. If you have ever used your pocket knife while standing on a ladder with another tool in your hand these priorities would make more sense. Deployment mechanism is also an important aspect of function. I prefer; spydie hole, flipper, and automatic. I don’t really like thumb studs because they are uncomfortable and unsafe. I just don’t usually like the way it feels to place a somewhat pointy lump of metal on the top of my thumb to open my knife. It’s no problem in gloves though. I have several thumb stud knives come partially open while getting it out of my pocket. The stud can catch on my jeans pocket and hang up or start opening the knife. I hate that! I also like them when sharpening or cutting cardboard.
Ergonomics covers a lot of ground also. How a knife carries in my pocket is really important as well as how it fits my hand during use. I like slim knives so they fit comfortably in my pocket while rolling around on the ground (I wrestle my kids and dogs and get down on the ground to fix things daily). This is why I liked the Para 3 better than the PM2. It carries a bit better and has no real drawbacks during use. Clips can be part of ergonomics depending on how they blend in to the grip or don’t. No hot spots and reduced snagging on clothing ant furniture are requirements.
Durability is important because good tools can last a lifetime. I don’t really want to replace my pocket knives all the time. I really enjoy using my knives but when I see that one has a weak point that is starting to fail or I always have to adjust or tighten screws, it takes away from everything including my enjoyment. Rust resistance is part of this also because I sweat a lot and sometimes use my knife to fix sprinklers or tubing. I stopped carrying the RAT2 because I knew the liners were rusting under the scales. The CIVIVI Elementum has stainless liners. I want all the mechanisms to last a long time and be easy to maintain also. I feel like maintaining a knife properly has a lot to do with how long it will last. The easier it is to maintain, the more likely it is to get taken care of regularly.
Materials are important to me in the way they impact every other category. Bronze phosphor pivots impact function and durability. The ceramic detent ball Spyderco put in the later Spydiechef is another example of how material selection can improve a knifes durability. Scale materials can affect; aesthetics, ergonomics, and durability. I like; micarta, wood, titanium, carbon fiber and even g10. Blade steel is something I nerd out on a little bit. I want it all! I hope I can get a good knife with the new Magnacut you mentioned in this video sometime soon. For now, I am using middle of the road S30V most of the time. I love Maxamet but not when water is involved.20CV seems really good too.
Aesthetics are at the bottom of the list but still important to me in several ways. I hope to get a knife with all the above attributes and still like looking at it. Other considerations are it should not be embarrassing to whip it out and go to work. Sometimes a tactical looking knife could send the wrong message if you are using it to fix sprinklers. I got a PM2 in S110V partly because I liked the “blurple” color scales. The S110V blade steel turned out to be a win also. Fit and finish are related to this category as well. If the blade is not well centered it may not change anything but it looks dumb!
Thanks again for what you do for us Nick!
about the teflon washers: i recently bought a boker+ lancer in m390/ti and i was quite surprised when i disassembled it and saw that it runs on teflon washers.
it has one of the smoothest deploying blades i've ever experienced, really amazing.
I pretty much agree with your rankings. Fun video. I do beat on coldsteel folders and feel safe doing it. Sometimes you can't carry a large fixed blade in public so those fit in there. That said those are just tools to me. I love a good art knife that can be used for normal tasks and those don't need a triad lock.
I agree with your rankings, Nick! Great video! So glad I never got into watches. Knives are expensive, enough!
Z Hunter made a cameo appearance...that brought me joy!!
For me the steel is interesting, but on an everyday pocket knife it’s not important .... we’ve managed perfectly well with 1095 and 440C for decades. The only “basic” steel I’ve had problems with is 8Cr13MoV. I’ve got a couple of knives in this steel that are razor-sharp, but I’ve got a couple that just refuse to take an edge and are basically just spoons! But this is not a problem with the steel itself... it’s a problem with the manufacturer of the knife.
Out of curiosity, what brand are the spoons?
Newbies - take note from Nick the master. If you follow a well thought-out process you will minimise the risk of buying a 'dud' knife (I don't mean bad quality - I mean a knife you just don't like or use for whatever reason & regret the purchase). I said minimise because we all buy a 'dud' every now & then!! I have a TOPS Operator 7 in my collection that regularly reminds me of this - great expensive knife for which I have absolutely no use. Thanks Nick - great vid.
This is a great little video that feels like it should be a tag video for other channels much like the “5 knives I love” videos.
Excellent discussion Nick. My list of definite no's are nail nick openers and slip joints without a finger choil or safety detent.
Now I can see why you have so many followers excellent video excellent subject
Great video! A fun conversation to have with knife loving friends!
I recognize the lack of love for frontflippers. But I appreciate them a lot for their easy carry: no thumbstuds that hook into your pocket or normal flipper that pecks your hand or other stuff in your pocket.
Your pants must be wicked tight if thumb studs are hooking on your pockets, Never heard of that.
@@kejadventures241 he must wear skinny jeans 😂
I don't get the front flipper hate at all. 'Boo! nothing chafing against my wallet/smartphone!' (shrug) But I mean, there was a time when pocket clips were considered an abomination too.
I have mobility issues in my hands so number one for me is ergonomics. The para 3 lightweight works very well for me.
For me deployment type is linked to safety. When I was first getting into knives, and long before I discovered your channel, I was intrigued by automatic knives. Where I live (Canada) automatic knives are prohibited but assisted knives are not. I went to a sporting goods store and tried one. When I put just a little pressure on the stud it flew open whacking the counter leaving a mark just like you did. That pricked my bubble for ever owning either. I have never had this sort of a problem with a knife that required me to overcome detent, but it was a very real problem when little force was required. Plus, the potential for a knife to fly open accidentally in my pocket is a deal breaker. No auto or assisted knives for me.
I love collecting knives but I am at a point where there is so much out there that it is overwhelming and wondering what are the 10 or so questions to ask my self about what knife I want. We share similar priorities and you brought up stuff I had not thought of.
video like this. This is why I love your channel.
Nicely framed within Project Procurement Management detailing knife selection criteria, exclusion criteria and weighting. GOOD PROCESS -- GOOD RESULT.
Thanks for sharing,
Two-Watch-Greg
Panerai 112 + Omega Seamaster
p.s. Nice dot matrix printer.
In the near future we will see 3D printed category labels.
🤣🤣🤣
Seriously, I love the graphics 😆.
B4 i watch the video. I agree with all of your criteria, but i add one more when I'm choosing a knife.( New to collecting, 3 weeks).
I also add , History. Edit: i saw you put aesthetic with history and designer. 😊
Maybe the maker, time period (ie. antique), history of how knife came about and what made it different.
My first knife in hand was a Kershaw cryo. Inexpensive knife with Hinderer design and won an award.
My second knife is a loveless drop hunter. History of maker and knife.
I bought an AD 10 because, it's a folding pocket knife that you can literally use as a survival knife. And some of the things people have done to this knife in practical use impressed me. So, the video story of all around use was interesting to me
Sebenza i think is my next knife, because of designer.
Do you think I'm limiting myself?
Thank you for your videos.
So educational.
✌🏼🦁
Thoroughly enjoy was surprised - nice job 👍
I bite the hell out of my fingers so I am utterly with you on the nail-nicks, Mr. Batman, sir.
Like the civivi you showed, I have a budget friendly Kershaw Tumbler, Sinkevich design, manual flipper in D-2 with G-10 and a thin carbon fiber inlay or veneer that I revere. Not because it’s expensive, but because it is comfortable and falls shut, stays centered and just looks cool. Oh yeah, it cuts like crazy. I dig it and it’s one of my least expensive pocket knives. Priorities can be very finicky for finicky people.
Regarding the action, where do you buy phosphor bronze washers to replace the old ones when they wear too thin? What’s the difference between phosphor bronze, bronze, brass, copper? Can the other materials be used instead?
One thing I’d be interested in hearing is where you place the designer-especially where you see a distinctive style (Anso/Voxnaes/Demko/etc) and a knife becomes “iconic” for lack of a better word.
I have 31 stitches from a Sabenza that opened in my front pocket.. I typically only carry backlocks or slip joints theses days . I've had more cuts from blades that don't stay closed than I ever have from a knife closing on me,
My priority, not my first but a bit weird, how the knife looks when it's closed. It's closed 99% of the time right?
Cool video thanks.
Amen on blade geometry for sure. A double edge OTF is a horrible option for slicing, the grind is necessarily really steep.
Exactly the reason I haven't shelled out the $250-$350 it takes to get a good one. It's in my budget but for those reasons they drop low on the "purchase someday" list. I'd love to own one, but as of now I'll stick with the Protechs and other, side opening autos. I enjoy carrying my Boker Kalashnikov more than I would a steep angle, double grind OTF. ( And honestly I think the blade shapes look cheap, especially with the cutout fuller down the middle. Definately the fault of cheap gas station knockoffs, but stuck in my brain none the less)
@@1980JPA well I own a Microtech Ultratech but it rarely gets used. It’s cool but definitely not a work knife. My Spyderco Para 3,PM2, and Manix 2 lightweight have awesome blade geometry and they see more pocket time than the Microtech does.
@@appalachiangunman9589 similarly here my para 2 and Manix ge the most pocket time with my Penguin and my m390 blade swapped Rat 2 as runner ups. All have geometries that are infinitely useful.
My favorite knives are the in Zero Tolerance group. I Especially like the 0095BW knife.
Very Good video... We pretty much agree with your ranking,
thank you
great stuff
I have the exact same thumb disk policy!
To comment on the Fit and Finnish concern you raised carries over to many other goods as G-Loomis fishing rods make a rod that costs $550-600 and the line guides are crooked but they say that it’s,” within spec.” As a custom rod builder, I can say that this should be #1 priority since it’s the most visible to the customer. The finished product is equally judged in form as well as function.
Work and non-work knife plays a part for me. I'm more likely to buy one I can use at work because 90 percent of my time outside my house is work or after work still in work clothes. I have evening and weekend knives that (lately while growing my remodel business) just hardly get an opportunity to be carried. I'm sure this balance will change later in life. But as of now this consideration is definitely in play before hitting "purchase". My priorities otherwise are similar to yours.
Thanks for another interesting video. Having watched almost every review of yours for several years, I am not sure your list entirely gets it. If you were just selecting a single knife, then this list might make sense. But I would actually separate this into two separate lists: Things that would prevent you from getting a knife and things that make a particular knife one that you would want to add to your substantial collection. So an unsafe knife, a knife with poor action, a poorly configured blade or a knife that will require frequent sharpening or is easily damaged, etc would all be reasons not to get a knife. If a knife checks those categories, i.e. nothing disqualifies it, there is still the question of what makes the knife worth getting? You have made it clear that you like knives that are “a bit crazy”- knives that are in some way innovative, do something different, or combine materials in an innovative way. You didn’t list innovation as one of the criteria, but from listening to you, that seems to be a major factor in what you add to your collection. You are not a “completist”- Some collectors what every Spyderco, or every CRK. You do seem to want an example of new ideas of technology (Shark lock, modern innovative slip joints, magnacut steel). So I would suggest that many of the items in your list, if negatively done, would be reasons not to get a knife, but that even doing those things well is not enough if the knife does not have some essence of being an exemplar of excellence or in some way an innovative design or use of materials. All the best.
I think it would be good to have priorities for knives in different categories, such as: every day carry, hard use, camping, salt water, and other uses.
I think that your "Blade" category should be expanded. Fidget factor is also a "thing". An interesting comment from another viewer relates to how our tastes change: big to small, black to other colours; folding to fixed, tactical to gentlemen folder, etc. There are also budget constraints... some of the knives you have shown must cost close or even more than $1000.
Guess what nick I just bought two conigos benchmades what you think of those???
Practical effects is a dying but much appreciated filming choice! That said, I'm fairly confident that this video is CGI. For example: that backdrop looks suspiciously pristine and the stunts are way too dangerous.
4:30 I feel this exactly with QSP
Your mileage may very but every QSP I've had (3 now) has had great centering, solid lockup, no blade play, and AMAZING action for the price. But the steel is always a dissapointment. In my experience QSP just doesnt do a good job heat treating their D2 and almost every other budget D2 knife outshines it in edge retention by a long way. I prefer the QSP Penguin to the Rat 2 and the Elementum in almost every way but I just dont find myself carrying it because the D2 is terrible, even after reprofiling and sharpening myself (they've always come from the factory with about a 300 grit finish on their edges its just ugly).
Again, your mileage may vary but thats my experience.
never had one of their d2-knives since i hate that steel, but their 154cm is actually really good.
i'd love to get the pelican and give their s35vn a try but i've heard stories that some of them are mislabeled d2.
probably a mistake since they also made the very same knife in both steels, hopefully a one-off problem.
I have a Penguin in D2 and haven't had any real issues with the blade. I do have to strop it regularly though. That said, I also have a Penguin in M390 (from Knives Plus) and I haven't had to touch the blade after stropping it the day it came in. Big upgrade. Worth getting the M390 version if you like the Penguin.
@@coralinealgae Exactly this. I find myslef needing to strop the Penguin much more often than my Rat 2 or Elementum. I also find that after sharpening it just doesnt get quite as sharp as the others. I think the way they heat treat their D2 might just makes it softer than much of the competition. I hope for your case the M390 is the real deal. M390 is a great steel.
@@nickmanville900 I couldn't say if steel is not as nice as the Rat 2. My D2 Penguin gets very sharp, but I had to re-bevel the edge to get it really sharp. It came with a very high bevel, something around 25°. I gave it a 17-18° edge and it brought the blade to life. The M390 is legit, but I really should give it the same edge as my D2 model. Knives Plus also sold one with an s35vn blade last year that was super popular. They sold out 2 production runs. I doubt any of them are heat treated as well as high end knife makers. Still, I haven't seen complaints about QSP's premium steel knives. I also have a QSP Hawk in 14c28n that's pretty nice, though maybe not quite as nice as Kershaw's 14c28n. Might be a little softer, or it might be edge geometry.
My priorities have shifted quite a bit since I got started. These days I find myself prioritizing blade (specifically geometry/heat treat) and aesthetics above all else.
Action used to be a big thing for me, but now I just want to be able to open/close it easily with one hand.
What's the name/brand of the knife at 27:00?
Very interesting topic.. for me. A modern pocket knife needs to be one hand friendly.. in and out of pocket easy. And open and close easy. . Blade is definitely important as well..
I carry a Spyderco Delica on most days.
i prefer thumbstud or thumbhole and any other deploy method where i have the options to open the knife slowly without receiving panic stares from people
Review the new larger cjrb maileah ☺️
Safety is definitely important. Once you've had a lock fail and the blade fold up onto your fingers, you will never completely trust a folding knife again.
Hello sir I have a question for you that I can't seem to get answered I was gifted a zt 0308 but it has a liner lock and everyone I've ever seen was a frame lock was wondering if you could help or point me in the right direction thank you good sir or if anyone else knows feel free to let me know
“DO NOT GET INTO WATCHES” had me cracking up, aaaahahaha thanks for the laugh sir.
Nick, it would be helpful for some if you typed the knives mentioned in the video. Timestamps are great but just order of appearance is good.
Thick blades for hard use. Cutting through brush and small tree branches when camping. Prying things open…etc. some of us use the hell out of our knives. Cheers
My worst knife is a $4000 custom Todd Begg I just got from Arizona Custom Knives. It was supposed to be my grail knife and it wouldn't lock up. I tried to take it apart to see if I could fix it and it turns out the knife was made with loose bearings that poured out all over the table. Now it is a $4000 pile of shiny well polished pieces and I never want to buy another custom knife again. A total failure on safety, fit and finish, and action as well as ease of disassembly.
I got a para 3 lightweight from bladeHQ and at the time it was the most expensive knife I'd ever bought so I was super excited to experience the greatness of Spyderco. Then I got the thing and the inner edges of the plastic handles were super sharp and there was a bit of overmold on the very back of the compression lock cutout, there was also a small amount of blade play. I was so disappointed I sent it to them for warranty and they sent it back with absolutely none of the problems resolved. All they did was tightened the pivot way too much and sharpened the blade. I emailed them saying I was extremely disappointed and while I was at work that day they called me and left a voicemail that said the amount of "flex" on the blade was normal and that they'd love to explain if I have them a call but I just gave the knife away because the experience was so bad. That was a few years ago and I'm currently heavily considering buying a Para 2.
I've got a Para 3 LW as well. I didnt experience the overmolding or blade play you mentioned, but mine is WAY off center, It's as bad as the example Nick showed in the video.
As for the PM2 its a great knife! But personally I think its priced way to high. You used to be able to find them under $150 all day and sometimes as low as $130 but these days they sell north of $170 even up to $200 for not even sprint run models and for that much money you can get things with blades in 20cv, M4, etc etc. I picked up a Benchmade Freek from my local sports store for $170 a few months ago! If you really want a PM2 go for it its a great knife, just know it isnt really great value anymore, and check local stores around you! Often times they have better prices than BHQ and Amazon and the like. Just my 2 cents. Happy collecting!
@@nickmanville900 sadly the two closest stores that sell them have them far over priced 215 at the local Cabela's and 270 at a nearby gun store. I think a big part of the price increase is that it's S45vn now which is one of the best all rounded stainless powdered steels.
@@Cadwallader38 Thats crazy! My local Sportsmans Warehouse (not sure if thats a National chain or just PNW) has the new PM's in S45VN at about $180. And I personally havent handled the new steel myslef but a source I trust immensly rates S45VN (when compared to S30V) as having slightly worse edge retention and slightly better corrosion resistence so I dont really buy it as a "super steel" I think they're trying to hype it up to drive sales with people who already own a PM2. I think the new steel is more of a sidestep and less of a real upgrade. The source I trust is Knifesteelnerds by the way. Check out their website, professional metalurgists/material scientists doing great stuff.
I am sorry to hear about your bad experience, The para 2 has solid steel liners so there should be no blade play. It’s handle is machined G10 so there should be no over-mold. The action is glassy smooth as well, and runs better than most bearings that I have seen.
Spyderco is well known for their emphasis on blade performance and ergonomics above all else, not so much for their fit and finish unless you are buying the highest end knives from the Taiching plant.
I am seeing PM2’s in S45 VN for $170 online so perhaps that is the way to go?
@@nandayane I'm thinking about getting the S110V one
I'm not a really a collector but I do edc knives.The only signifigant difference for me was putting aesthetics lower. Knives, for me, are tools first and foremost so, while I'd prefer a knife that looks good, I'd put ergos, durability, maintainability, ect. way above it.
I started off thinking this is going to be the dullest thing Nick's done, but low and behold I got sucked right in and it was 100% on point, or at least I totally agreed which is slightly worrying.
Nick, there’s a vote going on in the Olight group Facebook page for best knife design. The winner gets their knife made by olight. Are you going to vote for any?
Hey Nick, great video. Hoping to get some insight - what do you do if you have a stripped screw? It's happened to me a few times, wondering if there's anything I can do or if I'm just (pardon the pun) *screwed*
@Sly Wolfe >> Most likely there is permanent loctite behind the screw; use a soldering iron-let it heat up to 500 degrees and give the stripped screw a few minutes to loosen up; then use a slightly bigger torx that best fits and loosen the screw; works great for me.
Use a cut off disc/wheel in a Dremel to cut a channel in the head of the screw that can then be used with a flat blade screwdriver.
Drilling it out is another option.
Thanks for the suggestions! Unfortunately I have neither a soldering iron nor a dremel, so I'll have to see if I can borrow a friend's or commission someone to do it for me
@@CNYKnifeNerd If you can get a precise cut with a dremel on t5 without f****** up the pocket knife I'll give you a $100.
If you're stripping a torx it's because you're probably using the wrong size head. People love torque because they rarely strip and the bitheads generally last a long time. However if the head is not a perfect tight fit in the screw it will strip it all day. Just coming from someone who installs staircases every week every week and goes through about a million torx screws a month.
One something as small as T5 or T6 Modifying the head of the screw for extraction will be very difficult if not impossible. If it were me and I loved the knife and needed to get the screw out I would probably sacrifice the scales and cut them off that way you would have plier access to the screwhead. Scales are easily replaceable a $200 knife blade is not.
i've come into hard times like a lot of you, I've been collecting knives since I was 13 (I'm 30 now) and I came up short for and was trying to do anything I could to make it but I was still short by $200 and so it was the 1st of the month so I went to a pawn shop and they literally wanted to give me so little my more expensive knives that I had to drive home and grab two more knives so I could get to that $200 mark. I 100% intend to get them back but it was enraging to hear them tell me why my $200+ knives all in perfect condition were worth less than $50 each. I was in such a bad situation that I was afraid for them to not work with me at all I had to ignore her saying the prices she said she could find these knives at. She was saying that she found one of my limited run knives brand new for $140 and I know for a fact that it's never been on sale for more than $9 or so difference. I am ranting because my wife loves me but she does not understand my love of knives so she doesn't get why I cared so much about getting ripped off for those knives. ugh needless to say, first and last time I ever pawn something
In total I brought $640 in knives and walked away with them loaning me $160
@@michaelrogers6008 That's rough man, I hope it gets better for you. Look for knife trading groups on facebook and various knife forums, they will give you a better deal
@@michaelrogers6008 I'll give you a better deal and you can always buy them back.
So which 1 or 2 companies make a decent action with Teflon washers?
Hinderer offers high quality Teflon washer knives. I have also handled samples of the Ontario Rat and CRKT Overland knives that had great detents and good machining, so they launched open and closed smoothly. But, they can be hit-or-miss at that budget level.
Jason Guthrie, a custom maker, is the only maker I've found who makes teflon so good I can live with it
I have a VC Edge Interface if you would like to check it out and/or review it!
It definitely needs to exist, but that's about all I can think of for me
DO NOT GET INTO WATCHES!! But...I'd like to see the same type of ranking discussion for watches. Probably a different, though somewhat overlapping, list of attributes. (Might be interesting where "safety" falls). :)
I've badly cut myself on the back of the first CEO when it was close. I was just gliding my finger along the liners on the back (certainly checking how smooth they were) and *snikt* here goes the blood !
For me, opening either blade hole or flipper, I don’t like or keep anything else. Beyond that it just needs,as a whole be decent knife. Also designed for light to medium use.
How it fits in my hand, is most important,to me
When Nick says it's small to me he means micro.
I love my AD 20.5. To me the SharkLock works better with my thumb
Nick Shabazzlow’s Hierarchy of Knife Needs
I don't know how I'd rank these. There are too many variables. I would never buy another backlock, but otherwise, I generally don't care about the lock type. Aesthetics can be super important and yet I also love me some Spydercos....
...just had to sneak in the Z-Hunter!
wait a min, this is the vid that killed the table mat
I’d prioritise durability more, if I spend a couple of hundred bucks want it to last.
Spyderco kapara + CME
Hi Nick, we are new Subscribers, & love your channel... It is entertaining & educational! Could you please send us a small knife with metal handles, suitable for engraving? We Thank You.
Ruike p-801
But the Bexar is nail nick only? Rules are meant to be broken;)
Yes, but it's pinchable with fingers.
priority 1: what are you using it for, or what is the use case? Until you know that, all of the factors that make up a knife don’t have any context.
I am in dire need of a terrible knives live episode....PLEASE
Nick.. You are knowledgeable undoubtable, but I mainly watch your vids because you remind me of Joe Pesci.
Hmm, Pottery chard micarta.
My only priority “can it kill?”
Don't forget country of origin. Thanks a lot JAKE HOBACK KNIVES! I love getting ripped off.
No way you live in Cali! You sound like your from Brooklyn
34:34 "bad safety kills the knife" no it kills the user😂
A little hint: you have to soft detent? Just make the knife carry tip down only so it won't deploy in pocket... The ENTIRE knife comunity loves tip down only knives...
Liner lock, frame lock, button lock, spine lock … what I need is a folding knife with an alarm that goes off when I absentmindedly put it in my pocket with the blade deployed. Call it an ADHD lock.
“Do NOT get into watches!” 😂
The ol Grimsmo horse dong
Nick if you ever decide to let that Roosevelt go I’m your guy! 😆
The laws regarding length of blades is just ridiculous to me. Anyone could kill/maim somebody with a 2" blade just as well as they could with a 3.5" blade. I can begin to understand not wanting people to be concealing a 10" pocket sword to the grocery store, but when you're getting into more EDC friendly sizes the difference in "danger" is really negligible. Same with the fact that I can't just buy an auto because I'm in Canada. What difference does speed of deployment make when it comes to safety? I can carry a fixed blade which I could have out and ready to get stabby much faster than an auto. 🤷♂️ so silly.
What is youre stance on War on Ukraine? Are going to ban Russian and Chinese knives?
Somebody buy this man a paper cutter! 😂
Hey nick I been watching your channel since it first started I love your voice and knowledge thank you was my inspiration to start collecting knives I actually purchased my first delica because of your video I am starting my own channel please check it out if you like it
My favorite knife brands is made by gun companies. I like Smith & Wesson but they only use 8CR13MOV. And I like Browning. They use D2 and 8CR14MOV and 12C27.
Hogue comes to mind as well
@@Matt-xc6sp yes very true.
They're marketed by gun companies, but they're made by some OEM that makes knives for a dozen other brands.
Thumb disks do suck
weight
BAG OF " POTTERY SHARDS" sweet, prioritize? PICK ONE THAT MAKES YOU TALLER OR A BETTER DANCER,
Tell AKB not to get into watches… please.
Too late…
I'm glad I can't afford expensive watches haha