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Another great video. Why would anyone give a thumbs down? it proves the adage, "You're not doing it right unless 50% of the people think you're doing it wrong."
I use the Bosch multi construction blue drill bits and have no problem drilling even in the hardest tiles I use a 5mm to pilot the hole then a 7 mm for the finished hole and just use a wet sponge to keep the bit cool when drilling , this method works very well . Another tip is to make sure you knock your wall plug past the tile otherwise there's a chance you will crack the tile when putting the screw in........👍
Nice vid. I've always used a bit of tape over the hole mark to stop the bit jumping, but from your video it looks like that's not actually necessary (although that might be because you're using a good quality drill bit). Probably about time I upgraded from B&Q's own brand ones!
Thanks Charlie. Great video that gave me the courage to try and install a rangehoood canopy myself. I was seriously worried about drilling tiles. Cairns, Australia
@@CharlieDIYte Regardless of the music which is fine, your videos have been of great help to me. So keep up the great work and thanks from Perth Western Australia.
True, as I didn't have any porcelain or granite to hand, but the Armeg drill bit drills through these with ease - as I say in the video - exactly the same principle applies. Thanks for the comment.
I have tried both a masonry bit and a carbide tip to try to drill through travertine tiles. 15 minutes and i'm only about 3mm in. Will the Armeg work on travertine?
Hey Charlie, nice work; however, you need to point out that the way you performed it is not for novices! You recall the saying "that looks really easy to do", especially since you were so close to the edge, you were fortunate. Most contractors and experienced DIYers will agree that it is good (or best) practice to afix some tape to the area first to prevent the bit from skating and the tile from cracking. As you know, the pressure and drill speed combination is somewhat of an art. Other than that, nice work mate!
Thing is, Mike the Armeg bit simply doesn't skate around because of the design of the tip - and as you'll see from the other videos in this series, I've tried it out on ceramic and marble with exactly the same effect. Again, I wouldn't say I was fortunate with the edge for the same reason, but I take your point, and you'd have to proceed a little carefully with a harder tile like ceramic. Thanks for the comment.
I haven't found those spade-type bits very effective. I got about 1/2 - 3/4 of the way through my tile before the bits stopped working. I've had a bit better luck with the diamond grit hole saw bits, which could do maybe 1 1/2 holes before wearing out. In the end, I'd bought six bits (this includes testing on a spare tile). Either your Armeg bits are lot better than what I can find or your tile is softer.
Hi Scott. The tile in the video is admittedly soft (as some people have pointed out!) but the Armeg drill bit is one of the more premium drill bits out there, and I've drilled through marble, granite and porcelain with it to name but a few (here's the porcelain video th-cam.com/video/ze95z5R8UdY/w-d-xo.html), without the drill bit going noticeably blunt. So yes, as the old adage goes, you'll get what you pay for. A friend bought a JCB drill bit and it actually disintegrated in a matter of seconds while drilling porcelain - but in his case he definitely wasn't cooling it properly! In my experience, the key is to keep the drill bit cool by dipping it in water every few seconds, and take your time. Don't press the drill bit too hard. Let the drill bit do the work. That way, you stand a better chance of prolonging its life.
You already had a mark on the spots you drilled which stopped the drill bit from bouncing around. My question is, how did you make the initial marks on the tiles?
I have done this before and while it wasnt hard to do i didnt realize i needed to cool the drill bit and it took me literally 2 hours to drill two 1/4 inch holes through ceramic tile! I am now ready to do it again and some have suggested i drill into the grout instead of the tile. I am worried about doing that because the grout isnt as strong as the tile itself, right? I think i will drill into the tile like last time, only not press as hard on the drill and keep dipping it in water to cool it. I hope that makes a difference because the last time was like Chinese water torture!
Good plan Jerry and get one of those Armeg bits. They're awesome. I wouldn't go through the grout as the easy option because you might split the edge of the tile, and the drill bit could skip around/wander.
The bit is made and intended for constant water. Just like the water tile saws. Good question though. I like the idea of using a sponge that Michael Tricker suggested. It also allows you to wipe up the tile dust. I'll be drilling a tile floor for a utility sink, easier than a wall.
Diamond bit only on any thing that is not porcelain and if you don't use a steady steam of water just go home . I like to use a cola bottle full of water punch hole in bottom with cap on sneeze it with one hand and drill with outher . Just one of meny tricks I use. Just use the the brains the Good Lord gave us.
Can a regular drill bit be used to drill a hole in the ceramic floor tile? I need to feed a wire from the basement to the main floor for the dishwasher.
+Ed J It depends what you mean by "regular" but essentially the answer is No. You're better spending a tenner on a ceramic drill bit - it's shaped to penetrate the tile in a way that normal eg masonry drill bits aren't. I found ceramic tiles the hardest to drill through, so you really need a dedicated drill bit to do the job.
Hi Charlie - sorry to pester you again! I’m having an engineered oak floor (18mm) laid tomorrow morning with thick underlay, and I’ve just realised that it’ll actually be taller than the tiles on my Victorian fireplace. Can I just lay tiles on top of the current tiles? They are really thick, almost like outdoor, slate tiles. They unfortunately go all the way into the fireplace, which I can’t reach to retile. I am also worried about adding a fire grate because if I tile on top, there will be a smaller gap for it to slot into. Is there a way around this? Maybe a wooden plate, like a door plate, that would blend down into the tiles? Or am I screwed?! 😂
Hi there, it's a bit difficult for me to say 100% without seeing the space but from what you've described, I think the best option would be to floorboard up to the tiles and then insert an oak filler piece around the edge - to cover up the ply below the oak. Whether the flooring company have this or whether you'll have to do this yourself or get a carpenter in I don't know. It will mean you have a step down to the tiles which won't look brilliant but I'm not sure what alternative you have given you can't tile into the fire place.
@@CharlieDIYte Thanks Charlie - I did think it would be my only option, but that’s ok! If it doesn’t look brilliant, it doesn’t look brilliant, as long as it’s sealed. :)
Nice video thanks. What kind of anchor do you recommend when there is no stud available? My hardware stores are recommending toggle wings but most tile-drilling videos I see they are dropping sleeves into the holes. Thoughts? Thanks!
If two screws at each end are going into stud, then you don't need to worry too much about the strength of the grab bar (assuming the screws are a decent length and diameter?), and so the fixing you obtain for the third screw is not so important. That said, I agree with your approach of trying to make it as strong as you can, as the grab bar might be taking quite a lot of weight. Toggle wings are undoubtedly the strongest fixing you can achieve into drywall where there's no studwork, so the hardware store's advice is correct. It does mean though that you've got to drill quite a large hole into the tile. Even M3 spring toggles where the bolt itself is pretty small (3mm x 50mm) require a 12mm hole to be drilled in order to insert the toggle itself. And the M5 (or 5mm x 50mm bolt) toggle requires a 14mm hole. So for ultimate strength, one of these two toggles (ideally the 5mm x 50mm) is your best option BUT if you go with this option just check that the grab bar screws aren't too close to the edge of the fixing plate as you want the hole you drill to be hidden when you put the grab bar up. Spring toggles can be a little fiddly to install as they need to spring open in a clear space the other side of the plasterboard - particularly as your hole is likely to be very close to the stud, so when you put it in, you might try and angle it so it doesn't spring into the stud when inserted? I'm not sure what the sleeve is you're referring to - send me a link to a video if you'd like my thoughts on it. Is it a snap toggle? - which is a lighter weight version of the spring toggle, a little easier to install but not quite as strong. If you don't want to drill such a wide hole and/or you've only got a 6mm or similar tile drill bit, you might try your luck with a lighter weight fixing in the 3rd hole - such as a standard brown wall plug or something like a Fischer UX6 (which looks like a normal wall plug but knots up behind the plasterboard to create quite a secure fixing) - see my video th-cam.com/video/xjF827bxPFQ/w-d-xo.html to see how these operate.
Thanks, Charlie. I went back to the hardware store because the diamond bit they sold me wasn't quite big enough for the toggle wings. (Luckily I spotted this before unpacking and using the bit.) We debated what to do next -- get a bigger bit, or use a basic plastic wall anchor (that is the "sleeve" I meant). Ultimately the handyman at the store said my two existing screws into studs (at each end of the grab bar, so four total) was plenty and I didn't need to add anything at all. I'm OK to proceed that way but I thought I'd check in one more time to see what you think and thank you again. The only trick with the studs is that there is quite a distance of tile and other wall material before the drill hole gets to the stud, so my 2-inch screws only really grab with the last half-inch. I am upgrading 2 of my 4 screws to 2.5-inches to help with this, but the other 2 screws are semi-obstructed by the grab bar (over the drill hole) and I don't think I can fit anything longer under the grab bar and into the hole. Anyway, I watched your fix-to-wallboard video and that was really informative. Thanks again :-)
The fact that you're upgrading 2 of the 4 screws to 2.5 inches will put the strength of the grab bar beyond question. On their own, the 2 inch screws would probably have held (assuming they were screwed straight into the stud without a pilot hole) but with the two 2.5 inch screws as well, I think you've got a really good result there with no need for the toggle wings. Drilling 12mm/14mm holes into tiles is a risky strategy so I think you're wise to steer clear of that one. Good luck with it all, and thanks for showing interest in my videos! One last thing I thought of when you mentioned the restricted space for screws 5 and 6 - (and I know this isn't relevant to your situation as it's the screws not the screwdriver that is obstructed by the grab bar) - but if you ever find yourself driving in screws in restricted spaces, there's a great little tool you can fit on your electric screwdriver that turns the screw bit 90 degrees. Google "offset screwdriver bit" if you're interested!
i was told to buy a diamond tip drill bit to drill through procleain tile. I have some carbontiped drill bits, but I am afraid to use them, as I don't want to crack the tile.
Hi there. I couldn't comment on your carbon tipped drill bits without knowing more about them. The Armeg drill bit drills through Porcelain with ease, and shouldn't crack the tile. Have a look at my most recent video here th-cam.com/video/ze95z5R8UdY/w-d-xo.html where I show you how to drill through Porcelain with this drill bit. The Armeg drill bit featured in the video is not diamond tipped but has "diamond ground tip geometry" - which enables it to immediately cut into the tile without wandering around. In my most recent video th-cam.com/video/ze95z5R8UdY/w-d-xo.html I also demonstrate how the diamond tipped drill bit works with Porcelain. You can buy a diamond drill bit here www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-diamond-tile-drill-bit-6-x-67mm/51908. It's £16.99. But bear in mind - if you use one of these drill bits, it wanders all over the tile when you start drilling, so you'll also need a tile guide www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-diamond-tile-drill-guide/84524 for another £12.99. So in conclusion I would say that the Armeg Porcelain Tile Drill Bit is more expensive than many tile drill bits, but its cleverly designed arrow shaped tip drills straight into the tile without wandering like the diamond tile drill bit does. It's also capable of drilling a much wider range of tiles (granite, marble, ceramic, clay) as against the diamond tipped tile drill which is suitable only for ceramic, porcelain and marble.
You can use carbon tiped bits for porcelain... I use them all the time but you need to poor CONSTANT COOL water to cool off the bit.. it can go well over 400*C in there without water... and it can destroy your bit if your not carefull... Riobi isnt the best drill... u need dual or triple speed drill to drill the holes...
+Oleg Bezman Thanks for this Oleg. Valid point but I'm trying to give a solution that is practical to your every day DIY'er - and it won't be practical for most people to pour constant water over the drill bit. Similarly, I'm aware of the limitations of the Ryobi drill, but again I'm trying to use a tool that is in everyone's tool box, rather than a more specialist piece of kit that most people aren't likely to have. Interestingly the Armeg drill bit is best used at 900 rpm - which is an ideal speed for most battery powered drills, such as the Ryobi featured in my video.
Have You ever tried Diamond core bits for Porcelain Tiles? I even struggle to make a hole in my Porcelain Tiles, Did You use Porcelain Tile for this demo?
Kemsingnews Barathan Certainly have th-cam.com/video/ze95z5R8UdY/w-d-xo.html The tiles in the video you've watched are a really soft clay, but that Armeg bit goes through porcelain, marble, granite just as easily. I found the diamond bit surprisingly disappointing, and it's hard to get started as it wanders all over the tile if you don't have a jig for it.
This was a ceramic tile....easy to drill through. But a complete different story to porcelain tiles. Thought you are drilling through porcelain as stated 🤔
They aren't porcelain tiles they are ceramic, you wouldn't be able to use that drill bit on a hard porcelain tile. You can use a spray bottle to spray water onto the bit while you are drilling, without a constant water supply you are just shortening the life of the bit (VERY QUICKLY)
I would start by ripping those tiles off the wall and getting a professional installer to replace them and grout them. I cannot recollect seeing such a botched job. I would be ashamed to put this video on You Tube. You can clearly see the drill bit slipping up slightly on the first hole. No tape, not a good idea.
Trevor Sams Botched job? They're hand made, hand glazed Marlborough tiles. They're uneven by design so there's always going to be a slight rusticity to them. It's what they're meant to look like. And no, the drill doesn't slip. The tip geometry sees to that. I don't know what your issues are but take your anger elsewhere. It's not welcome on this channel 😆
🛠Charlie DIYte Amazon Tool Store amzn.to/3fcLnY4 - all my tried, tested and much loved DIY tools. You can help support me by Buying me a Coffee ☕ bit.ly/3xuQ3zb or by becoming a Member to unlock a host of benefits - thanks so much 🙏.
Charlie could you do a video on how to make sure you screw or drill into the centre of a stud? Thanks
Im still using this video as a reminder for the last 4 years, thank you Charlie.
Pace a small damp sponge in the dust pan to cool the drill bit as you work.
Gotta love a beautiful clean hole...
Another great video. Why would anyone give a thumbs down? it proves the adage, "You're not doing it right unless 50% of the people think you're doing it wrong."
DAVAD M DAVAD Why thank you - though I must apologise for the cheesy music that afflicted a lot of my early videos!!
I use the Bosch multi construction blue drill bits and have no problem drilling even in the hardest tiles
I use a 5mm to pilot the hole then a 7 mm for the finished hole and just use a wet sponge to keep the bit cool when drilling , this method works very well .
Another tip is to make sure you knock your wall plug past the tile otherwise there's a chance you will crack the tile when putting the screw in........👍
Tops tips 👍🏼
Great set of videos - thanks so much, just fitted a blind through tiles - perfect! Never done anything like it before so really happy 👍
Hi Sandra - that's excellent news, thanks so much for letting me know how you got on :)
Nice vid. I've always used a bit of tape over the hole mark to stop the bit jumping, but from your video it looks like that's not actually necessary (although that might be because you're using a good quality drill bit). Probably about time I upgraded from B&Q's own brand ones!
Thanks Charlie. Great video that gave me the courage to try and install a rangehoood canopy myself. I was seriously worried about drilling tiles. Cairns, Australia
Glad to hear it Jerry. I'm guessing the install went well? Thanks for getting in touch 👍
Great advice as always! Thanks Charlie.
Thanks Noel. This was an early one - not sure where I was going with the background music 🤦
@@CharlieDIYte Regardless of the music which is fine, your videos have been of great help to me. So keep up the great work and thanks from Perth Western Australia.
Dip in the water is a great idea to also to make sure the dust not fly around.
Yes but it's mainly to stop it overheating. 👍
True, as I didn't have any porcelain or granite to hand, but the Armeg drill bit drills through these with ease - as I say in the video - exactly the same principle applies. Thanks for the comment.
Charlie DIYite
I would like to see porcelain done. I had to use alot of pressure and had no ease, especially after doing 2 holes.
I have tried both a masonry bit and a carbide tip to try to drill through travertine tiles. 15 minutes and i'm only about 3mm in. Will the Armeg work on travertine?
Nice demonstration
Hùng Kiệt Thanks!
Thanks Charlie
You're welcome Malcolm. One of my early vids - complete with the unnecessary background music. 😬
Thank you for your help!
Hey Charlie, nice work; however, you need to point out that the way you performed it is not for novices! You recall the saying "that looks really easy to do", especially since you were so close to the edge, you were fortunate. Most contractors and experienced DIYers will agree that it is good (or best) practice to afix some tape to the area first to prevent the bit from skating and the tile from cracking. As you know, the pressure and drill speed combination is somewhat of an art. Other than that, nice work mate!
Thing is, Mike the Armeg bit simply doesn't skate around because of the design of the tip - and as you'll see from the other videos in this series, I've tried it out on ceramic and marble with exactly the same effect. Again, I wouldn't say I was fortunate with the edge for the same reason, but I take your point, and you'd have to proceed a little carefully with a harder tile like ceramic. Thanks for the comment.
I haven't found those spade-type bits very effective. I got about 1/2 - 3/4 of the way through my tile before the bits stopped working. I've had a bit better luck with the diamond grit hole saw bits, which could do maybe 1 1/2 holes before wearing out. In the end, I'd bought six bits (this includes testing on a spare tile). Either your Armeg bits are lot better than what I can find or your tile is softer.
Hi Scott. The tile in the video is admittedly soft (as some people have pointed out!) but the Armeg drill bit is one of the more premium drill bits out there, and I've drilled through marble, granite and porcelain with it to name but a few (here's the porcelain video th-cam.com/video/ze95z5R8UdY/w-d-xo.html), without the drill bit going noticeably blunt. So yes, as the old adage goes, you'll get what you pay for. A friend bought a JCB drill bit and it actually disintegrated in a matter of seconds while drilling porcelain - but in his case he definitely wasn't cooling it properly!
In my experience, the key is to keep the drill bit cool by dipping it in water every few seconds, and take your time. Don't press the drill bit too hard. Let the drill bit do the work. That way, you stand a better chance of prolonging its life.
Hi Charlie what if I want a bigger hole than the 6mm armeg?can I just use a masonry bit through the hole made with the armeg bit to make it wider
The danger is you'd shatter the tile. If you are going to do this, go at it very gently.
Excellent video thank you
+RipoffGuy You're welcome! Thanks for the comment!
You already had a mark on the spots you drilled which stopped the drill bit from bouncing around. My question is, how did you make the initial marks on the tiles?
If I did it would only have been a Sharpie or pencil. The Armeg drill is such a good design it starts digging in the second you apply power.
thank you for the video, cool
I have done this before and while it wasnt hard to do i didnt realize i needed to cool the drill bit and it took me literally 2 hours to drill two 1/4 inch holes through ceramic tile! I am now ready to do it again and some have suggested i drill into the grout instead of the tile. I am worried about doing that because the grout isnt as strong as the tile itself, right? I think i will drill into the tile like last time, only not press as hard on the drill and keep dipping it in water to cool it. I hope that makes a difference because the last time was like Chinese water torture!
Good plan Jerry and get one of those Armeg bits. They're awesome. I wouldn't go through the grout as the easy option because you might split the edge of the tile, and the drill bit could skip around/wander.
If needed could you use the bit to widen a hole as you would a normal masonry bit?
Charlie you need a show on tv!
Ha! Thanks. Perhaps without the cheesy background music - which was a big error in these early videos!
Its really helpful , thank you
Great video
Thanks for that Willie. Much appreciated!
Could you do a tutorial on tiling a wall?
Importantly you are not showing drilling through porcelain or granite ...
💎Diamond💎 Bits Are a Girls👩🔧& Guys👨🔧Best Friend... #GotPorcelainTile?
Wouldn't heating and sudden cooling harden the drill bit, making it more brittle?
The bit is made and intended for constant water. Just like the water tile saws. Good question though. I like the idea of using a sponge that Michael Tricker suggested. It also allows you to wipe up the tile dust. I'll be drilling a tile floor for a utility sink, easier than a wall.
Thanks mate
Thanks so much..
Diamond bit only on any thing that is not porcelain and if you don't use a steady steam of water just go home . I like to use a cola bottle full of water punch hole in bottom with cap on sneeze it with one hand and drill with outher . Just one of meny tricks I use. Just use the the brains the Good Lord gave us.
Can a regular drill bit be used to drill a hole in the ceramic floor tile? I need to feed a wire from the basement to the main floor for the dishwasher.
+Ed J It depends what you mean by "regular" but essentially the answer is No. You're better spending a tenner on a ceramic drill bit - it's shaped to penetrate the tile in a way that normal eg masonry drill bits aren't. I found ceramic tiles the hardest to drill through, so you really need a dedicated drill bit to do the job.
Hi Charlie - sorry to pester you again! I’m having an engineered oak floor (18mm) laid tomorrow morning with thick underlay, and I’ve just realised that it’ll actually be taller than the tiles on my Victorian fireplace. Can I just lay tiles on top of the current tiles? They are really thick, almost like outdoor, slate tiles. They unfortunately go all the way into the fireplace, which I can’t reach to retile. I am also worried about adding a fire grate because if I tile on top, there will be a smaller gap for it to slot into. Is there a way around this? Maybe a wooden plate, like a door plate, that would blend down into the tiles? Or am I screwed?! 😂
Hi there, it's a bit difficult for me to say 100% without seeing the space but from what you've described, I think the best option would be to floorboard up to the tiles and then insert an oak filler piece around the edge - to cover up the ply below the oak. Whether the flooring company have this or whether you'll have to do this yourself or get a carpenter in I don't know. It will mean you have a step down to the tiles which won't look brilliant but I'm not sure what alternative you have given you can't tile into the fire place.
@@CharlieDIYte Thanks Charlie - I did think it would be my only option, but that’s ok! If it doesn’t look brilliant, it doesn’t look brilliant, as long as it’s sealed. :)
Nice video thanks. What kind of anchor do you recommend when there is no stud available? My hardware stores are recommending toggle wings but most tile-drilling videos I see they are dropping sleeves into the holes. Thoughts? Thanks!
Thanks Bruce. What are you securing to the tile? This will help me to advise you on the best anchor for the job.
I am installing a grab bar. Two screws at each end are going into a stud, and I'm using an anchor for the third screw at each end. Thank you!
If two screws at each end are going into stud, then you don't need to worry too much about the strength of the grab bar (assuming the screws are a decent length and diameter?), and so the fixing you obtain for the third screw is not so important. That said, I agree with your approach of trying to make it as strong as you can, as the grab bar might be taking quite a lot of weight.
Toggle wings are undoubtedly the strongest fixing you can achieve into drywall where there's no studwork, so the hardware store's advice is correct. It does mean though that you've got to drill quite a large hole into the tile. Even M3 spring toggles where the bolt itself is pretty small (3mm x 50mm) require a 12mm hole to be drilled in order to insert the toggle itself. And the M5 (or 5mm x 50mm bolt) toggle requires a 14mm hole.
So for ultimate strength, one of these two toggles (ideally the 5mm x 50mm) is your best option BUT if you go with this option just check that the grab bar screws aren't too close to the edge of the fixing plate as you want the hole you drill to be hidden when you put the grab bar up. Spring toggles can be a little fiddly to install as they need to spring open in a clear space the other side of the plasterboard - particularly as your hole is likely to be very close to the stud, so when you put it in, you might try and angle it so it doesn't spring into the stud when inserted?
I'm not sure what the sleeve is you're referring to - send me a link to a video if you'd like my thoughts on it. Is it a snap toggle? - which is a lighter weight version of the spring toggle, a little easier to install but not quite as strong.
If you don't want to drill such a wide hole and/or you've only got a 6mm or similar tile drill bit, you might try your luck with a lighter weight fixing in the 3rd hole - such as a standard brown wall plug or something like a Fischer UX6 (which looks like a normal wall plug but knots up behind the plasterboard to create quite a secure fixing) - see my video th-cam.com/video/xjF827bxPFQ/w-d-xo.html to see how these operate.
Thanks, Charlie. I went back to the hardware store because the diamond bit they sold me wasn't quite big enough for the toggle wings. (Luckily I spotted this before unpacking and using the bit.) We debated what to do next -- get a bigger bit, or use a basic plastic wall anchor (that is the "sleeve" I meant). Ultimately the handyman at the store said my two existing screws into studs (at each end of the grab bar, so four total) was plenty and I didn't need to add anything at all. I'm OK to proceed that way but I thought I'd check in one more time to see what you think and thank you again. The only trick with the studs is that there is quite a distance of tile and other wall material before the drill hole gets to the stud, so my 2-inch screws only really grab with the last half-inch. I am upgrading 2 of my 4 screws to 2.5-inches to help with this, but the other 2 screws are semi-obstructed by the grab bar (over the drill hole) and I don't think I can fit anything longer under the grab bar and into the hole. Anyway, I watched your fix-to-wallboard video and that was really informative. Thanks again :-)
The fact that you're upgrading 2 of the 4 screws to 2.5 inches will put the strength of the grab bar beyond question. On their own, the 2 inch screws would probably have held (assuming they were screwed straight into the stud without a pilot hole) but with the two 2.5 inch screws as well, I think you've got a really good result there with no need for the toggle wings.
Drilling 12mm/14mm holes into tiles is a risky strategy so I think you're wise to steer clear of that one. Good luck with it all, and thanks for showing interest in my videos!
One last thing I thought of when you mentioned the restricted space for screws 5 and 6 - (and I know this isn't relevant to your situation as it's the screws not the screwdriver that is obstructed by the grab bar) - but if you ever find yourself driving in screws in restricted spaces, there's a great little tool you can fit on your electric screwdriver that turns the screw bit 90 degrees. Google "offset screwdriver bit" if you're interested!
Alternatively you could use the erbauer 4 in 1 drill bit ! They go thro tiles brick wood etc had mine ages use it most days. Think I paid £8 for it 👍
Frank Lyn That's interesting Frank. I'll definitely check that out - I buy a fair amount of Erbauer stuff, particularly impact screwdriver bits.
Charlie DIYte I think they go for £4 in screwfix , they are blue in colour on the end of the bit . Just saves swapping bits in and out of your drill 👍
Two things to add here. 1.) drill in slow speed 2.) squirt bottle of water to spray the tip
i was told to buy a diamond tip drill bit to drill through procleain tile. I have some carbontiped drill bits, but I am afraid to use them, as I don't want to crack the tile.
Hi there. I couldn't comment on your carbon tipped drill bits without knowing more about them. The Armeg drill bit drills through Porcelain with ease, and shouldn't crack the tile. Have a look at my most recent video here th-cam.com/video/ze95z5R8UdY/w-d-xo.html where I show you how to drill through Porcelain with this drill bit.
The Armeg drill bit featured in the video is not diamond tipped but has "diamond ground tip geometry" - which enables it to immediately cut into the tile without wandering around. In my most recent video th-cam.com/video/ze95z5R8UdY/w-d-xo.html I also demonstrate how the diamond tipped drill bit works with Porcelain.
You can buy a diamond drill bit here www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-diamond-tile-drill-bit-6-x-67mm/51908. It's £16.99. But bear in mind - if you use one of these drill bits, it wanders all over the tile when you start drilling, so you'll also need a tile guide www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-diamond-tile-drill-guide/84524 for another £12.99.
So in conclusion I would say that the Armeg Porcelain Tile Drill Bit is more expensive than many tile drill bits, but its cleverly designed arrow shaped tip drills straight into the tile without wandering like the diamond tile drill bit does. It's also capable of drilling a much wider range of tiles (granite, marble, ceramic, clay) as against the diamond tipped tile drill which is suitable only for ceramic, porcelain and marble.
You can use carbon tiped bits for porcelain... I use them all the time but you need to poor CONSTANT COOL water to cool off the bit.. it can go well over 400*C in there without water... and it can destroy your bit if your not carefull... Riobi isnt the best drill... u need dual or triple speed drill to drill the holes...
+Oleg Bezman Thanks for this Oleg. Valid point but I'm trying to give a solution that is practical to your every day DIY'er - and it won't be practical for most people to pour constant water over the drill bit. Similarly, I'm aware of the limitations of the Ryobi drill, but again I'm trying to use a tool that is in everyone's tool box, rather than a more specialist piece of kit that most people aren't likely to have. Interestingly the Armeg drill bit is best used at 900 rpm - which is an ideal speed for most battery powered drills, such as the Ryobi featured in my video.
That's red clay back tile. Very soft
Yes, but if you look at video #2 goo.gl/oDRIrD and #3goo.gl/4x5wSu in this series, you'll see this drill bit tackling much harder tiles with ease :)
Ceramic = Hard Porcelain = Harder Stone = Hardest ???
Diamond ♦️ 💎 Blade/Tip On Ceramic? Porcelain? Stone?
Nooice!
Thanks u
sweet brother
did you tile that bathroom?
Hi Aidan. Yes I did! I'm mulling over posting the video, but I suspect there are lots of more accomplished tilers out there!
Don't bother. That's the worst tiling I've seen in a while. Terrible grouting, joints too big and tiles not flush with each other. Shocking
Sir I need a help sir if you have old sander please get it to me sir please.
size of drill bit?
The drill bit featured in the video is 6mm diameter.
Useful video thanks :) please turn off the music tho, it's very distracting.
Sorry Gregory, that was an error in the early days of my vids that I no longer do 🤦
Have You ever tried Diamond core bits for Porcelain Tiles? I even struggle to make a hole in my Porcelain Tiles, Did You use Porcelain Tile for this demo?
Kemsingnews Barathan Certainly have th-cam.com/video/ze95z5R8UdY/w-d-xo.html The tiles in the video you've watched are a really soft clay, but that Armeg bit goes through porcelain, marble, granite just as easily. I found the diamond bit surprisingly disappointing, and it's hard to get started as it wanders all over the tile if you don't have a jig for it.
This was a ceramic tile....easy to drill through. But a complete different story to porcelain tiles. Thought you are drilling through porcelain as stated 🤔
Here you go. There were 3 videos in this series th-cam.com/video/ze95z5R8UdY/w-d-xo.html
They aren't porcelain tiles they are ceramic, you wouldn't be able to use that drill bit on a hard porcelain tile. You can use a spray bottle to spray water onto the bit while you are drilling, without a constant water supply you are just shortening the life of the bit (VERY QUICKLY)
I'm sorry to disagree but these drill bits are designed to drill through porcelain.
Where is diamond bit for porcelain ? misleading …
Anyone can drill a ceramic tile, try doing that, on a Porcelain tile! good luck with that!!!!!!!!!!!!
So I guess you haven't seen this one th-cam.com/video/ze95z5R8UdY/w-d-xo.html 😉
Cheating...try drilling granite wall tiles with your bloody dipping...lol
J6
Slow that drill down bae
Good video but horrible music. No music is best.
Agreed. It was an error in my early videos - sorry about that!!
Annoying music 😩
I would start by ripping those tiles off the wall and getting a professional installer to replace them and grout them. I cannot recollect seeing such a botched job. I would be ashamed to put this video on You Tube. You can clearly see the drill bit slipping up slightly on the first hole. No tape, not a good idea.
Trevor Sams Botched job? They're hand made, hand glazed Marlborough tiles. They're uneven by design so there's always going to be a slight rusticity to them. It's what they're meant to look like. And no, the drill doesn't slip. The tip geometry sees to that. I don't know what your issues are but take your anger elsewhere. It's not welcome on this channel 😆
Great job! Thank you.