There are many people who do not understand deeply about the structure of each type of steel, I cannot explain to each person. Not all steels are hardened in the same way, and I follow Japanese standards!
I went looking for his original post and could not find it. I am guessing I am not the only one that watched the you add clay mixture to the "wrong side" of the blade and was mystified. But then it makes sense if you are using a modern steel it wouldn't be that big of a deal except for softening the cutting edge. I missed what type of steel you were using for this or if it was even mentioned. It is a good build, I like you handle work.
@@RickD5468 The steel seems to be a big ol truck spring that has been plasma cut lengthwise. If that's true, the clay definitely left the edge too soft. In fact, you shouldn't use clay on 5160 or equivalent because it's not gonna show a hamon anyway and the best way is to heat treat it uniformly.
It's because people watch too many movies. They are expecting you to have made a sword from "scratch" but they have just watched videos on how katanas are made.
The softer shell around the harder edge will allow the sharp edge of the blade to hold an edge really well while the softer outside of the blade will allow some flex in the sword to prevent it from snapping or shattering. This is known as a differential heat treat and is also used in high end chef knives, tantos, katana etc.
The clay coating was backwards. Clay is used to maintain ductility and toughness in the spine. The edge won't transition properly if it cools slowly. If this did harden, then it was likely not as good as it could be.
I am always amazed when a craftsman gets a hold of a rusty looking piece of steel and this amazing blade is drawn out, its unbelievable. What a skill to possess, is it the hitting with the hammer along with the heat that gives the steel it's strength?
The forging itself doesn't really do anything for the strength. It's all in the material you use and the heat treatment. Talking about modern steel of course.
I like the final product! Don't let these folks discourage you! I had a question, what kind of fluid did you use to etch the blade? Thank you for the content I love Sekiro! God bless you 🙏 brother
Wakizashi have blades that are about 30 to 60 cm long, wakizashi that are roughly the same length as a katana are called o-wakizashi and those that are close in length to a "tantō" are called ko-wakizashi. Wakizashi worn with a katana is an official sign that the wearer is a samurai or a swordsman of feudal Japan.
I have a wakizashi certified as an “important cultural property” by the Nihon Bijutsu Token Hozon Kyokai (Japanese government authorized historic blade preservation association). I have a tanto kaiken forged by Kanetsugu of Mino, Kaneuji Branch, ca. 1368. These, and a katana, are ancestral weapons given to me by my grandfather because I studied kenjutsu as he asked me. Various of my ancestors fought in the Jinshin no Ran, 672 A.D., and the Gempei War, (1180-85). On these bases I am compelled to disagree with your calling your blade a wakizashi. It is too short. By the way, the bushi (warriors) from the fifteenth century onward had entirely different swords for battle and “civilian” use. Katana and wakizashi were for non-battlefield wear.
Thank you for the useful information, as I find out Wakizashi have blades that are about 30 to 60 cm long, wakizashi that are roughly the same length as a katana are called o-wakizashi and those that are close in length to a "tantō" are called ko-wakizashi. Wakizashi worn with a katana is an official sign that the wearer is a samurai or a swordsman of feudal Japan.
@@noluckdoberman715 Never claimed to be bushi, a social classification that ended approximately a century and a half ago. Technically, I would be kuge (courtier) because of my paternal lineage. The swords are from the maternal side.
Thank you, there are many people who do not understand the structure of each type of steel in depth, I cannot explain to each person. Not all steels are hardened in the same way, and I follow Japanese standards!
فولاذ 5160 لا ينفع معه الهامون ثانيا كان يجب وضع الطين على النصل وليس الشفرة لان الطين وظيفته يحافظ على الحرارة ويعطي تبريد بطيئ ليكون النصل طري والشفرة قاسية وهو عمل العكس وضع الطين على الشفرة وترك النصل ولهذا عند التبريد يصبح النصل قاسي والشفرة ضعيفة وشكرا
ну не вакидзаси , а танто. слишком короткий для вакидзаси. вопрос по закалке. ты ничего не перепутал ? вообще то закаливают не обух , а кромку . соответственно намазывают все лезвие , но на кромке тонко, а обух толще. если на масло калить - то кромку можно не намазывать , а только обух. у тебя все наоборот
Зачем брать сталь которую ты не можеш закалить на лезвии или у тебя временно проблемы с отпуском ? Кроме того ты не думал что раз сталь и так хрупкая сама идея закалки глупая
you put the clay on the cutting edge not the spine...the thing with japaneese blades is they coat the smun and and uper half of the straif blade they made, the differential hardening keeps the spine more soft then the edge it also causes the intentional sabering of the blade which gives the weapon it signiture curve. yours wont really hold a edge as well cause the edge in now the softer side.
The spine is traditionally soft as it is lower carbon. The cutting edge is a taco san mai. You put the clay on the cutting edge because it is thinner and will over heat otherwise.
I’ve seen dam near every tanto waki Kat made on TH-cam or at least by every maker. Some good stuff here but some steps not covered disappointing and surprised
Traditional Japanese standards. Uses grinder to cut tang, not forged. Used sandpaper instead of drawknife. Uses piece of crap steel and not the black sand from Japan. Not a San Mai blade. Does not fold and stack steel even once. Uses clay and has no idea why, forgets to use straw ash, rice paper, clay slurry. Last but not least, your tamahagane is questionable to say the least. Forge On!!!
Everything you're doing is bad , I want you to know this - first of all , it's so short it's a Tanto knife , not a Wakazashi , and the clay goes on the spine , not the edge ; you've made the spine brittle and the edge soft - also , your title says , "the sword that ends the pain of losers" - I presume you are referring to those noble Samurai who committed Sepuku with honor ; to call them , "losers" is not only disrespectful , but stupid
![破戒僧の薙刀を真剣に作ってみた。総集編 / Making Corrupted Monk's Naginata from [SEKIRO] Compilation](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/6gVPgQ4SWnA/mqdefault.jpg)
There are many people who do not understand deeply about the structure of each type of steel, I cannot explain to each person. Not all steels are hardened in the same way, and I follow Japanese standards!
I went looking for his original post and could not find it. I am guessing I am not the only one that watched the you add clay mixture to the "wrong side" of the blade and was mystified. But then it makes sense if you are using a modern steel it wouldn't be that big of a deal except for softening the cutting edge. I missed what type of steel you were using for this or if it was even mentioned. It is a good build, I like you handle work.
Thank you for your perspective, most people assume that clay should be applied to the back of the sword,@@RickD5468
I didn't know gold spray paint was a Japanese standard. I wonder how blade smiths 100+ years ago pulled that one off.
@@RickD5468 The steel seems to be a big ol truck spring that has been plasma cut lengthwise. If that's true, the clay definitely left the edge too soft. In fact, you shouldn't use clay on 5160 or equivalent because it's not gonna show a hamon anyway and the best way is to heat treat it uniformly.
It's because people watch too many movies. They are expecting you to have made a sword from "scratch" but they have just watched videos on how katanas are made.
I appreciate the look. It is more of a tanto than a wakizashi, also the edge is going to be soft as butter, the clay goes on the spine of the knife
Agreed, this is kinda short for a Wakizashi.
the clay hardening also caught my attention and I just looked for an according comment
Im going to make a wakizashi for myself in the coming weeks ahead. Good video
I don’t understand why make the edge softer than the spine ?
he reason I did this is because this steel is very hard and quite brittle, if I follow the normal way, the blade will be very easy to chip
Soft stays sharp longer i think
Can you tell me what s the name of each liquide used in each step ?
The softer shell around the harder edge will allow the sharp edge of the blade to hold an edge really well while the softer outside of the blade will allow some flex in the sword to prevent it from snapping or shattering. This is known as a differential heat treat and is also used in high end chef knives, tantos, katana etc.
The clay coating was backwards. Clay is used to maintain ductility and toughness in the spine. The edge won't transition properly if it cools slowly. If this did harden, then it was likely not as good as it could be.
Have watched your videos for hours on end it's wonderful to be able to watch a true artist at work thank you
Thank you, it's great that you love my video, I wish you a lot of happiness
nice work, however the harder part should be on the edge, also on opposite side
This looks so good 👍👍
Thank you !
That’s amazing well done. I would buy that.
Очень хорошая работа, благодарю за ролик! 👍
Thank you for watching !
Great Title. Thank you for the content.
Thank you !
why clay heat treatment backwards ? usually see clay for soft spot & without clay on hardened spot (cutting edge)
Thank you, the reason I did this is because this steel is very hard and quite brittle, if I follow the normal way, the blade will be very easy to chip
I am always amazed when a craftsman gets a hold of a rusty looking piece of steel and this amazing blade is drawn out, its unbelievable. What a skill to possess, is it the hitting with the hammer along with the heat that gives the steel it's strength?
Thank you ! Properly forged and tempered steel will give great strength to the blade
The forging itself doesn't really do anything for the strength. It's all in the material you use and the heat treatment. Talking about modern steel of course.
@@mrkiky Thank you. You are right, the quality of steel and the heat treatment process determine the quality of the steel
what is the solution you use to reveal its pattern
I like the final product! Don't let these folks discourage you! I had a question, what kind of fluid did you use to etch the blade? Thank you for the content I love Sekiro! God bless you 🙏 brother
Thank you for liking and taking the time to watch my video, the liquid I use to engrave the blade is Fecl3
awesome tanto
Thank you !
Nice Tanto
Beautiful. How long is the blade? How many centimeters is the blade? How long is the knife handle?
Price kya hai or cash on delivery milega
At type of steel is that?
Lay that solderwire on the inside of the blade collar it makes it easier to control .
Thank you !@
What is the length of the wakizashi
Wakizashi have blades that are about 30 to 60 cm long, wakizashi that are roughly the same length as a katana are called o-wakizashi and those that are close in length to a "tantō" are called ko-wakizashi. Wakizashi worn with a katana is an official sign that the wearer is a samurai or a swordsman of feudal Japan.
Maybe not traditional but beautifull and awesome craftmanship
Thank you !
عمل يستحق لاحترام وتقدير لمجهودك
Thank you very much !
I have a wakizashi certified as an “important cultural property” by the Nihon Bijutsu Token Hozon Kyokai (Japanese government authorized historic blade preservation association). I have a tanto kaiken forged by Kanetsugu of Mino, Kaneuji Branch, ca. 1368. These, and a katana, are ancestral weapons given to me by my grandfather because I studied kenjutsu as he asked me. Various of my ancestors fought in the Jinshin no Ran, 672 A.D., and the Gempei War, (1180-85). On these bases I am compelled to disagree with your calling your blade a wakizashi. It is too short. By the way, the bushi (warriors) from the fifteenth century onward had entirely different swords for battle and “civilian” use. Katana and wakizashi were for non-battlefield wear.
Thank you for the useful information, as I find out Wakizashi have blades that are about 30 to 60 cm long, wakizashi that are roughly the same length as a katana are called o-wakizashi and those that are close in length to a "tantō" are called ko-wakizashi. Wakizashi worn with a katana is an official sign that the wearer is a samurai or a swordsman of feudal Japan.
You are not a samurai, your ancestors were but not you
@@noluckdoberman715 Never claimed to be bushi, a social classification that ended approximately a century and a half ago. Technically, I would be kuge (courtier) because of my paternal lineage. The swords are from the maternal side.
@@megahamartolos6638 again no no you aren’t
Зачем он обух закалил а кромку мягкой оставил
Tanto
大変素晴らしいと思います。土置きが逆なのは当然突っ込まれます。刃が欠けやすくなるから焼きを逆に入れたのは、刃紋を出すためでしょうか？これだと刀身が折れやすくなるので、刃が欠けるのは仕方ないとして、通常の焼き入れの方がよかったのではないでしょうか？コメントで短刀じゃないかっていうのが多かったですね。３０ｃｍを超えると脇差。少し長い寸伸び短刀ってのもありますね！
Thank you, there are many people who do not understand the structure of each type of steel in depth, I cannot explain to each person. Not all steels are hardened in the same way, and I follow Japanese standards!
Nivel Job 👌🏻
Price kya hai or cash on delivery milega kya bataiyega
Thank you for loving it, but it's hard for me to deliver it to you, because it's a sword!
you got the clay backwards. and you're supposed to alternate the over/under in the handle wrap.
Thank you for watching and commenting
TANTO is the suicide blade, not wakizashi.
This geometry is not Wakizashi, but Tanto. And zone hardening is done absolutely wrong.
Я не понял ты сделал лезвие мягким а обух твердым?😮😢
best craftmans
Thank you for complimenting me, but I can't claim to be the best, I still have a lot to learn!
Well done, but i didn't see you sign the tang
thank you, sorry for not understanding your question
@@Arts-and-Crafts 茎に銘を入れてないって事ですね！
@@E51TE Oke :))
Muito bom trabalho . Porém o tsuka está muito redondo .. isto e um Tanto , o Wakizashi e um pouco maior ..
Thank you ! But Wakizashi has 2 types, long and short
@@Arts-and-Crafts O seu trabalho e muito bom . Continue ...Reverencias ..
@@edsonsuemitsu4796 Many thanks friend
El proceso de arcilla esta alreves la parte dura es la del filo no la del lomo osea la arcilla va arriba no en el filo
he reason I did this is because this steel is very hard and quite brittle, if I follow the normal way, the blade will be very easy to chip
فولاذ 5160 لا ينفع معه الهامون
ثانيا كان يجب وضع الطين على النصل وليس الشفرة لان الطين وظيفته يحافظ على الحرارة ويعطي تبريد بطيئ ليكون النصل طري والشفرة قاسية وهو عمل العكس وضع الطين على الشفرة وترك النصل ولهذا عند التبريد يصبح النصل قاسي والشفرة ضعيفة وشكرا
Soweit so gut aber ich hätte die Schneide gehärtet und nicht den Rücken.
ну не вакидзаси , а танто. слишком короткий для вакидзаси. вопрос по закалке. ты ничего не перепутал ? вообще то закаливают не обух , а кромку . соответственно намазывают все лезвие , но на кромке тонко, а обух толще. если на масло калить - то кромку можно не намазывать , а только обух. у тебя все наоборот
Что-то я тоже не понял. Зачем он лезвие замазал а обух закалил?
dang quite the tital my freind lol
Почему глина на лезвии а не на обухе?😂
Anh là người Việt Nam phải không
Đúng rồi bạn
Aap India se hi ho ?
I come from Vietnam
Tell that to Musashi. He fought with it...
Yes ! thank you for watching
本格的だな。
Зачем брать сталь которую ты не можеш закалить на лезвии или у тебя временно проблемы с отпуском ? Кроме того ты не думал что раз сталь и так хрупкая сама идея закалки глупая
you put the clay on the cutting edge not the spine...the thing with japaneese blades is they coat the smun and and uper half of the straif blade they made, the differential hardening keeps the spine more soft then the edge it also causes the intentional sabering of the blade which gives the weapon it signiture curve. yours wont really hold a edge as well cause the edge in now the softer side.
True 🤣 But he used some kind of modern super hard steel (tool steel ?). So he had to soften the edge.
The spine is traditionally soft as it is lower carbon. The cutting edge is a taco san mai. You put the clay on the cutting edge because it is thinner and will over heat otherwise.
And the differential heating is how they curve the blades with low carbon steel on the spine.
Tanto really.
I’ve seen dam near every tanto waki Kat made on TH-cam or at least by every maker. Some good stuff here but some steps not covered disappointing and surprised
Thank you for telling me what you think!
Losers??? that can be taken in a other perspective,hari is not my friend
самурай и баллгаргарка ага😂.
ну а тка пойдёт
Traditional Japanese standards. Uses grinder to cut tang, not forged. Used sandpaper instead of drawknife. Uses piece of crap steel and not the black sand from Japan. Not a San Mai blade. Does not fold and stack steel even once. Uses clay and has no idea why, forgets to use straw ash, rice paper, clay slurry. Last but not least, your tamahagane is questionable to say the least.
Forge On!!!
Everything you're doing is bad , I want you to know this
- first of all , it's so short it's a Tanto knife , not a Wakazashi , and the clay goes on the spine , not the edge ; you've made the spine brittle and the edge soft
- also , your title says , "the sword that ends the pain of losers" - I presume you are referring to those noble Samurai who committed Sepuku with honor ; to call them , "losers" is not only disrespectful , but stupid
こんなの刀じゃないw
日本刀の鍛造をよく学んでください。今は日本の刀鍛冶の映像は沢山あります。土置きは反対ですよ😂