I purchased an Astra Elite AR5-E a few years ago and have watched a lot of videos and gotten pretty proficient on it. However i never knew how to do center grinding endmills, i certainly do now. Thank you. Would love a video on dovetail cutters. Not many videos on that and thee are quite a few angles to consider. Thank you again, subscribed.
Very interesting and informative. I appreciate how you describe what you are doing, why, and how, rather than just doing it. I am learning! Lovin your T&C videos.. Your videographer is doing a great job! Close ups when needed.
Imagine if you could generate the helix for any cutter without having to use the finger rest to guide the cutter.......I'm working on a design that I thought up some years ago.
"I'm working on a design that I thought up some years ago." 50 years ago, I found myself in a toolroom, sharpening every type of HSS cutter imaginable... While I was dependent upon the use of "spring fingers" to follow the cutter's helix... There were machines that used air bearings and "master helices" to make the job easier for cutter manufacturing, mainly. The Cincinnati MkII machines I used for cutters manufactured by every manufacturer you could name ... were capable of doing almost anything with simple setups... Check out master helices, (as applied to T&C work) then ask yourself "is my reinvented "wheel" going to be an improvement?" Will it be better, easier, cheaper and faster than existing / old tech? I always have my doubts...
You're right that it causes a bigger burr I do it this way because the cutting force of the wheel forces the tooth face down onto the pointer. By rotating the wheel the other way the cutting force would be trying to lift the tooth face off of the pointer which would result in the wheel digging deeper into the side of the end mill, which would result in more cutting force and could lead to a crash where the cutting force is so great that you lose control. This would destroy the end mill and possibly cause the grinding wheel to come loose and go scooting off across the shop. I find that dealing with the bigger burr is the lesser of two evils.
"if you tap a grinding wheel lightly with something it should ring. if not its cracked." first, you should hang the bare wheel (no arbors) on a string, or on your finger, or suspend it in some other appropriate way (so you don't damp out its vibrations) before tapping it with a wooden implement, like a short section of broomstick handle. Don't hit it with a metal tool... Instructions are all in the detail... And... having been in a shop where a fairly large grinding wheel broke. I think it was rapid approached up to a shoulder in the belief it was clear... It wasn't. Lumps the size of bricks went everywhere... No one hurt, though... Makes you more circumspect around grinding machinery... In a small shop, there was a piece of a resinoid slitting wheel embedded in the window frame...happened a long time before my arrival, left as a warning to others... Resinoid wheels don't ring... they sound dull... I always was careful on grinders, but in 1978, I found I was too careful. I wanted to cut a piece of 1" square HSS toolbit, too long for my task. I could have cut it on a T&C grinder with a 1/16" slitting wheel, but, hey, we had a Snow 21" cut off grinder. On my first attempt, I made no progress, but a guy came up to me and explained why... My cautious approach had glazed the wheel's periphery, and I was trying to cut HSS with something as smooth and hard as glass... (I inspected the periphery) I went to collect my dressing stick, and the guy said "don't bother!" He just whacked the 21" diameter disc through the 1" square tool steel in about two seconds, perhaps less. it opened up the wheel, got rid of the glazing... I used that technique often after that... The guy, (Roger, I remember) had an eccentric technique to establish how much material a machine could remove. He worked up to a point where the machine stalled, or threatened to, then reduced feed rate or cut depth until there was no such risk... My generation were taught to calculate MRR, from horsepower and machine condition. his did it empirically...
I don't use air any more because when I did it would always get "sticky" usually in the middle of a cut. I've always got the best results by keeping it nice and oily. And thanks for watching
found this very informative,,, so much more to it than meets the eye. i have recently got air spindle ,,, end mill etc. sharpening set up. oh by the way, did i mention i don't have a bloody clue how to use it?? hoping to learn from people like you cheers from australia! ( subscribed!)👍👍
I purchased an Astra Elite AR5-E a few years ago and have watched a lot of videos and gotten pretty proficient on it. However i never knew how to do center grinding endmills, i certainly do now. Thank you. Would love a video on dovetail cutters. Not many videos on that and thee are quite a few angles to consider. Thank you again, subscribed.
Thank you
I just realized that I have a dull dovetail cutter. Thanks for the great idea. I'll put it on the list
@@Lappemountainliving awesome. Thank you!
Very interesting and informative. I appreciate how you describe what you are doing, why, and how, rather than just doing it. I am learning! Lovin your T&C videos.. Your videographer is doing a great job! Close ups when needed.
Thank you from both of us :)
One of the most informative video on end mill sharpening I think I’ve ever seen, thank you so much.
Thank you for the kind words
No cat nose 😂❤😊😂
I feel so poor and primitive doing this by hand with a die grinder. :/
Great Video! I've been looking for videos about end mill sharpening and yours are always great! I'd love to see some test cuts after the sharpening!
Great suggestion! Thanks for watching!
Imagine if you could generate the helix for any cutter without having to use the finger rest to guide the cutter.......I'm working on a design that I thought up some years ago.
"I'm working on a design that I thought up some years ago." 50 years ago, I found myself in a toolroom, sharpening every type of HSS cutter imaginable... While I was dependent upon the use of "spring fingers" to follow the cutter's helix... There were machines that used air bearings and "master helices" to make the job easier for cutter manufacturing, mainly. The Cincinnati MkII machines I used for cutters manufactured by every manufacturer you could name ... were capable of doing almost anything with simple setups...
Check out master helices, (as applied to T&C work) then ask yourself "is my reinvented "wheel" going to be an improvement?" Will it be better, easier, cheaper and faster than existing / old tech? I always have my doubts...
Hello, just wondering why you have it so the direction of the wheel direction will raise a burr of the cutting edge ?
You're right that it causes a bigger burr
I do it this way because the cutting force of the wheel forces the tooth face down onto the pointer. By rotating the wheel the other way the cutting force would be trying to lift the tooth face off of the pointer which would result in the wheel digging deeper into the side of the end mill, which would result in more cutting force and could lead to a crash where the cutting force is so great that you lose control. This would destroy the end mill and possibly cause the grinding wheel to come loose and go scooting off across the shop. I find that dealing with the bigger burr is the lesser of two evils.
if you tap a grinding wheel lightly with something it should ring. if not its cracked.
"if you tap a grinding wheel lightly with something it should ring. if not its cracked."
first, you should hang the bare wheel (no arbors) on a string, or on your finger, or suspend it in some other appropriate way (so you don't damp out its vibrations) before tapping it with a wooden implement, like a short section of broomstick handle. Don't hit it with a metal tool...
Instructions are all in the detail...
And... having been in a shop where a fairly large grinding wheel broke. I think it was rapid approached up to a shoulder in the belief it was clear... It wasn't. Lumps the size of bricks went everywhere... No one hurt, though... Makes you more circumspect around grinding machinery... In a small shop, there was a piece of a resinoid slitting wheel embedded in the window frame...happened a long time before my arrival, left as a warning to others... Resinoid wheels don't ring... they sound dull...
I always was careful on grinders, but in 1978, I found I was too careful. I wanted to cut a piece of 1" square HSS toolbit, too long for my task. I could have cut it on a T&C grinder with a 1/16" slitting wheel, but, hey, we had a Snow 21" cut off grinder. On my first attempt, I made no progress, but a guy came up to me and explained why... My cautious approach had glazed the wheel's periphery, and I was trying to cut HSS with something as smooth and hard as glass... (I inspected the periphery) I went to collect my dressing stick, and the guy said "don't bother!" He just whacked the 21" diameter disc through the 1" square tool steel in about two seconds, perhaps less. it opened up the wheel, got rid of the glazing... I used that technique often after that...
The guy, (Roger, I remember) had an eccentric technique to establish how much material a machine could remove. He worked up to a point where the machine stalled, or threatened to, then reduced feed rate or cut depth until there was no such risk... My generation were taught to calculate MRR, from horsepower and machine condition. his did it empirically...
mill sure are expensive, but it sure looks lie a lot of work to refurbish them
It isn't so bad if you do a bunch a a time
What is the reason for not using air in the air bearing?
I don't use air any more because when I did it would always get "sticky" usually in the middle of a cut. I've always got the best results by keeping it nice and oily. And thanks for watching
Great video, a piece of copper will debar
Thanks 👍
found this very informative,,, so much more to it than meets the eye. i have recently got air spindle ,,, end mill etc. sharpening set up. oh by the way, did i mention i don't have a bloody clue how to use it?? hoping to learn from people like you cheers from australia! ( subscribed!)👍👍
We're glad you're finding the video's helpful. More to come!
Excellent tutorial with wonderful camera work and explanation.
Many thanks!
awsome content
Thanks!
Cool! 👍👍👍
Thank you! Cheers!
wow. great information with good technical process
Glad you enjoyed the video. Thanks for watching.
Very nice work sir.
Many thanks