Shelf Pin Jigs

Here are some shelf pin options-
Rockler shelf pin jig-
amzn.to/40nsnfa
Powertech shelf pin jig-
amzn.to/47bYEIs
BigHorn shelf pin jig-
amzn.to/49lA8GW
Festool LR32 system-
amzn.to/46RNokF
Festool of1400 router-
amzn.to/47h9Mnh
LR32 guide rail-
amzn.to/45Pyp9G

[@alholston-smith7631]

It seems Rockler has redesigned their LR32 hole drilling jig. The new one is $119 and clamps to the edges of the board, with hole,drilling jogs on each side correctly aligned. This is a nice alternative to the Festool LR32 which cost $350 and up. Thanks for the tip.
Cheers

[@metronyc2855]

Thanks Anthony. Have'nt seen too many videos on this product. We have been using the Rockler Pro Shelf Drilling Jig that consist of two jigs and guides for shelf width. Pretty straight foward. Thanks again.

[@rockler]

Great video! 👏💙

[@LostBoyLA]

I have both and prefer to use the rockler jig. The lr32 is better when I have large cabinets and need more custom control. Otherwise the ease of use for the rockler is usually best

[@AnthonyScolaro1]

For one or two cabinets the this type of jig is great, when I’m building custom kitchens or built ins, the lr32 is the way to go for me.

[@dahut3614]

I was interested in seeing how you use the LR32 to make the holes, so I watched "cabinet building series: 2. assembling the boxes" from a year ago. It seems terribly inefficient to align the guide rail repeatedly. A guide rail with the holes, possibly cut shorter, on an mft-style hinge with stop blocks might be a lot easier when doing a bunch of them. Maybe the hinge could be on the short side of the mft for taller cabinets.

[@AnthonyScolaro1]

Setting the guide rail with the guides stops and clamps only takes a few seconds and then plunging the holes with the router is fast also, so it works for me. But the real big cabinet shops that have a lot of space and do kitchen after kitchen use a line boring machine. They cost way more than the lr32 system and take up a ton of room. As you can see, I’m modular because of my space, or lack of it.

[@chrisschmitt3860]

Anthony, really enjoy your instruction, many thanks. I’m a one man show just like you, and find myself doing very similar projects. I do about 5 kitchens a year, plus all of the usual commercial restaurant stuff here in coastal NC. I’m all metric, 32mm standards, and I’m Festool almost all the way. For shelf pins, I use the Blum jig, which is similar to the Veritas jig. I also own that same Rockler jig, and use it on occasion for retrofitting pins in an existing cabinet. I drill a 7/32” hole using a specialized brad point bit setup with a Sioux 6500 rpm aircraft drill, and insert a sleeve after finishing that accepts a 5mm pin. I buy them bulk from cabinet supply. Do you ever use the sleeves? I’ve often considered the LR 32 setup, but I don’t use Festool routers, so that conversion is quite expensive. My customers really like the pin sleeves, and almost always comment on it. Any thoughts?

[@AnthonyScolaro1]

I never used the sleeves. The LR32 system is pretty expensive, mostly because of the festool router, however if you don’t have an of1400 router, use my TSO products link, head to the website and you’ll see a conversion piece that allows you to use a Dewalt router and I think they made one for Milwaukee or Makita also, on the LR32 system. Here’s my link to TSO-
tsoproducts.com/?ref=Scolaro

[@cybersewingschool874]

Great vid! Thank you!!!

[@ogwoodworks]

When you build your cabinets based on the European 32mm standard, do you follow a specific 32mm cabinetry "system" such as Process 32, System 32, KISS II, etc? Or perhaps you've come up with your own system? I have some kitchen cabinets to build and I'd like to follow an established system if possible. I've learned a lot from your videos and I'm also a metric shop so I thought I'd ask about your cabinetry system. Thanks!

[@AnthonyScolaro1]

I follow the 32 mm system for shelf pin holes and concealed hinges. I still base my metric cabinet measurements off of the imperial system, and I just convert it from inches to mm. For example, if I need a base cabinet height of 34 & 1/2”(standard), without countertops, I will make the carcass 768mm(balanced panel) and the external toe kick 108mm. This will give you 876 mm in total. I hope that makes sense.