You will get less tear out if you start the drill before touching the wood. For aesthetics, there are shelf pin sleeves/grommets, those can add a lot in the looks dept. & hide tear out as well.
well sounds good that the shelf pin itself covers the tear out in the one you place it in....what about the other 2, 5, 10, 100 hole you drilled and have no pin in it ? :)
For those that don't own a plunge router and only have one of the Kreg jigs you can prevent most tear out by putting your drill in reverse, then drill each of the holes in the jig...place the drill back in normal mode and drill the holes...you will find this eliminates most of the tear out in plywood material. Bit of a pain, but a cheap alternative that gives much better results than just drilling and living with the tearout.
I am a year late to the party, but this is the golden ticket. You saved a weeks custom cabinet project in which I couldn't get clean shelf pin holes until I tried this. Cheers to you, TH-cam stranger!
Drill speed is critical. At least 2500 rpm is soft wood. The bit needs to be moving at full rpm when entering the board. You can get by with slower speeds in MDF or hardwoods.
Yup, it’s actually 32mm. Just really close to 1 1/4”, which generally works best in my head, haha. Odd given that I’m Canadian and nearly everything outside construction/building and weight is in metric.
How far down into the holes is your indexing pin going? Mine only extends about 1/8” through the jig. I think it’s being held up by that rubber O ring. Should I remove that?
Thanks for the question, Steve. I just checked mine and the pin doesn’t get held up in the jig at all. The rubber O ring brings some minor resistance (appropriately to keep it stable), but I can slide the pin through the jig with just moderate resistance.
![[*Gifted/Ad] Quick & Easy DIY Shelf Pin Router Jig [video 506]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/ToV8Tu7yB_4/mqdefault.jpg)
![[*Gifted/Ad] Quick & Easy DIY Shelf Pin Router Jig [video 506]](/img/tr.png)
![[UNCUT] "เสรีพิศุทธ์" แฉยับ! งัดหลักฐานใหม่ชั้น 14 ได้นอนคุกสมใจแน่!! I คนดังนั่งเคลียร์ I 2 ก.ย.67](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/O1SSg4p9Izs/mqdefault.jpg)
Be sure to leave a comment below on how you make holes for shelf pins! I'm definitely curious to learn new ways.
You will get less tear out if you start the drill before touching the wood. For aesthetics, there are shelf pin sleeves/grommets, those can add a lot in the looks dept. & hide tear out as well.
Good tip, thanks Luis! I've always wanted to try the sleeves/grommets - I'll give those a try on an upcoming project.
well sounds good that the shelf pin itself covers the tear out in the one you place it in....what about the other 2, 5, 10, 100 hole you drilled and have no pin in it ? :)
1000 Subs, congratulations!
Thank you very much!
The kreg jig you have has the 5mm bit, you can also buy a 1/4" bit to work with the same jig.
For those that don't own a plunge router and only have one of the Kreg jigs you can prevent most tear out by putting your drill in reverse, then drill each of the holes in the jig...place the drill back in normal mode and drill the holes...you will find this eliminates most of the tear out in plywood material. Bit of a pain, but a cheap alternative that gives much better results than just drilling and living with the tearout.
I am a year late to the party, but this is the golden ticket.
You saved a weeks custom cabinet project in which I couldn't get clean shelf pin holes until I tried this.
Cheers to you, TH-cam stranger!
@@mastrFlex you're welcome, glad it worked out for ya!
It’s all to do with speed on your drill.
Drill speed is critical. At least 2500 rpm is soft wood. The bit needs to be moving at full rpm when entering the board. You can get by with slower speeds in MDF or hardwoods.
are you useing a upcut router bit
Yup, this was an upcut spiral bit
We usually use the 32mm shelf pin system. Is that the way the keg is set up?
Yup, it’s actually 32mm. Just really close to 1 1/4”, which generally works best in my head, haha. Odd given that I’m Canadian and nearly everything outside construction/building and weight is in metric.
How far down into the holes is your indexing pin going? Mine only extends about 1/8” through the jig. I think it’s being held up by that rubber O ring. Should I remove that?
Thanks for the question, Steve. I just checked mine and the pin doesn’t get held up in the jig at all. The rubber O ring brings some minor resistance (appropriately to keep it stable), but I can slide the pin through the jig with just moderate resistance.
I’m having the same issue. Used the jig for the first time today.