Good stuff man! Glad to see someone who actually knows what they are talking about and is realistic with these things lol Keep them coming! Also you should de-burr the extra casting on the head before assembling it!
Love this stuff. all motor 4 cylinder is the best. I'm now pulling my cylinder head off for port and polish and new cams because of you. 288s with 11.5mm lift gonna have to turn the limiter up to 8k or more to be like Danny Z and his 7ag 🤣
FYI, the 7A crank is actually forged from the factory. A properly balanced rotating assembly should prevent crank failure. Like the build though. I myself am doing a 7A-GZE.
How much did you end up spending on your 7age builds? I drive a 6th gen Celica 7afe that I learned to drive manual in but wanted to possibly add more power to it and have been thinking about swaps (3sge, 3sgte, hell even 2grfe) or rebuilds (7age) but both of these have their cons For a engine swap I’d pretty much certainly need to go pick and pull a s series adaptable transmission to replace my current one and install/fabricate different motor and transmission mounts. For a rebuild on the other hand I wouldn’t need to get new motor mounts or a new transmission as long as I know the power range that the gearbox and clutch can handle. But a rebuild would require lots of machining that I’m just not to financially knowledgeable about I’m wondering what in the end might be a more bang for your buck endeavor. I used to think it leaned more towards a swap because of less machine work but most of the engines that were as drop-in for a 6th gen Celica as you can get have gotten crazy expensive for over $2-3k just for the motor alone I guess I’m just spit balling. I’d love to really get into tuning my car and creating a unique build that I can feel like I created but I also am uncertain financially about what I could be getting myself into. Im currently in college so disposable incomes kind of tight, say no more than $4k kind of thing. If I could make 200 or more hp with anything up to that kind of money I’d honestly love to try it
At 12:1 compression, what gas are you going to be using? I'm going to be running 11.5:1 Toda pistons in my destroked 7AGE and I'm worried about what octane fuel I can get away with.
You can run whatever fuel you want as long as you dial the timing back to prevent knock. I'm on pump 92 and just got the motor running, timing set pretty conservative until it's broken in and I can do some tuning with knock headphones.
@@deankelley1 for sure! If I had local E85 I'd go that route, definitely leaving power on the table with pump gas but I'd rather be fuel limited than not have enough compression to maximize potential.
Any fuel issue on a stock pump? Im also running a smallport 7ag with smallport pistons, 312cc 7mge fuel injectors, MRP cut crank timing gear, stock cams and stock fuel pump but my AFR leans out 17+ after 45-5k rpm. Im leaning towards a weak/worn out fuel pump at this time.
I was searching and people talk about shaving down the stock pistons and it should be fine to mount and run with 4age head, is that true or we really have to mount the 4age internals?
To my understanding, you will have really poor compression and make very little power due to the pistons not being properly matched to the head. I've heard of people doing it, but those engines struggle to make stock 4AGE horsepower numbers.
The lowest cost option I would consider acceptable is stock 4AGE pistons mated to modified 7AFE rods (modded to accept 4AG wrist pin) all stock 7AFE bottom end with stock 4AG head. You won't be able to rev it real high for several reasons but it shouldn't sacrifice horsepower.
I'm starting my 7age build, did you have to skim the deck height with the 4age, if you did how much clearance is required to keep the engine non interference?
The rods I'm using are longer than standard 7A rods so they bring the pistons up to the deck, non-interference left the building a loooooong time ago, I'm running real big cams.
That engine block looks cleaner than my dishes.
Same tbh
Good stuff man! Glad to see someone who actually knows what they are talking about and is realistic with these things lol
Keep them coming!
Also you should de-burr the extra casting on the head before assembling it!
Was planning on it, thanks for the tip though!
Love this stuff. all motor 4 cylinder is the best. I'm now pulling my cylinder head off for port and polish and new cams because of you. 288s with 11.5mm lift gonna have to turn the limiter up to 8k or more to be like Danny Z and his 7ag 🤣
FYI, the 7A crank is actually forged from the factory. A properly balanced rotating assembly should prevent crank failure. Like the build though. I myself am doing a 7A-GZE.
Ah, my mistake. Either way I like to play it safe so I'll be keeping it under 9k, don't like the thought of breaking a crankshaft 😅
@@DannyZiegler86 better to be safe than sorry. Very nice looking setup, and the build seems really well thought out.
I have my 7afe the crank is forged stock.. u can safely run 7 psi boost and pull about 220 hp
me: Doesn't have a car
also me: Enters the compression calculator site anyways
Love the video, and the information! Dont mind these talking videos at all! Keep it up!
What is that piping on that fridge? Haha nice build! Will try one when I’m ready
The 7a crankshaft is forged from factory
How much did you end up spending on your 7age builds? I drive a 6th gen Celica 7afe that I learned to drive manual in but wanted to possibly add more power to it and have been thinking about swaps (3sge, 3sgte, hell even 2grfe) or rebuilds (7age) but both of these have their cons
For a engine swap I’d pretty much certainly need to go pick and pull a s series adaptable transmission to replace my current one and install/fabricate different motor and transmission mounts.
For a rebuild on the other hand I wouldn’t need to get new motor mounts or a new transmission as long as I know the power range that the gearbox and clutch can handle. But a rebuild would require lots of machining that I’m just not to financially knowledgeable about
I’m wondering what in the end might be a more bang for your buck endeavor. I used to think it leaned more towards a swap because of less machine work but most of the engines that were as drop-in for a 6th gen Celica as you can get have gotten crazy expensive for over $2-3k just for the motor alone
I guess I’m just spit balling. I’d love to really get into tuning my car and creating a unique build that I can feel like I created but I also am uncertain financially about what I could be getting myself into. Im currently in college so disposable incomes kind of tight, say no more than $4k kind of thing. If I could make 200 or more hp with anything up to that kind of money I’d honestly love to try it
83mm piston?
Hi Danny, what timing belt did you use with the 4age oil pump?
Purchased from MRP
Is this build worth it for an 95 ST Celica, as it weighs 2,500 lbs?
That looks amazing, what Ecu are you running? I plan to itb my aw11 and this is my first time messing with ecu and tuning
Megasquirt, not the most user friendly thing in the world but it is cheap.
@@DannyZiegler86 why you say it’s not user friendly? That is the one I was looking at
@@edifiebru you have to assemble it yourself, and the software isn't super intuitive to use. There's way better options if you're willing to pay more.
@@DannyZiegler86 I see, do you tune your own ecu??
@@edifiebru yes I do, I'm not great at it and it was a steep learning curve but I do haha
At 12:1 compression, what gas are you going to be using? I'm going to be running 11.5:1 Toda pistons in my destroked 7AGE and I'm worried about what octane fuel I can get away with.
You can run whatever fuel you want as long as you dial the timing back to prevent knock. I'm on pump 92 and just got the motor running, timing set pretty conservative until it's broken in and I can do some tuning with knock headphones.
@@DannyZiegler86 Ah okay, good to know. Thanks.
I'm glad you got it running. Cool to see a local Washington build coming together!
@@deankelley1 for sure! If I had local E85 I'd go that route, definitely leaving power on the table with pump gas but I'd rather be fuel limited than not have enough compression to maximize potential.
@@DannyZiegler86 another question for you. Where did you have your block machined? Everywhere I've called around to days they're backed up for months.
@@deankelley1 Auburn Auto machine. They're probably backed up too. Basically every machine shop is.
Nice build! What fuel injector cc size and fuel pump are you running on your build?
Stock pump, 370cc injectors
Any fuel issue on a stock pump? Im also running a smallport 7ag with smallport pistons, 312cc 7mge fuel injectors, MRP cut crank timing gear, stock cams and stock fuel pump but my AFR leans out 17+ after 45-5k rpm. Im leaning towards a weak/worn out fuel pump at this time.
@@AE8TY2 no issues yet, rock solid 12.5:1 AFR all the way to 8500
FunkyGarage in the back.👌
Hey am looking for a block like this
underbucket shims or stock shims ?
Doing 1NZ shimless buckets
I was searching and people talk about shaving down the stock pistons and it should be fine to mount and run with 4age head, is that true or we really have to mount the 4age internals?
To my understanding, you will have really poor compression and make very little power due to the pistons not being properly matched to the head. I've heard of people doing it, but those engines struggle to make stock 4AGE horsepower numbers.
The lowest cost option I would consider acceptable is stock 4AGE pistons mated to modified 7AFE rods (modded to accept 4AG wrist pin) all stock 7AFE bottom end with stock 4AG head. You won't be able to rev it real high for several reasons but it shouldn't sacrifice horsepower.
We have rods already made with the mod from factory on maxpeeding rods, stock 4age pistons arent that expensive, so yeh, i will consider that, thanks
What head gasket did you use ?
Going to use factory Toyota 4AGE if it clears the bore size.
@@DannyZiegler86 thanks for the info
I'm starting my 7age build, did you have to skim the deck height with the 4age, if you did how much clearance is required to keep the engine non interference?
The rods I'm using are longer than standard 7A rods so they bring the pistons up to the deck, non-interference left the building a loooooong time ago, I'm running real big cams.
Well if this is going to be a street car why are you running such a high compression? Are you planning on using octane higher than 91
We have 92 here, but you lose dynamic compression when your cams have bigger overlap, so you need more static compression to compensate.
why no toda billet oil pump gear?
Budget, and I won't be turning enough RPM to really worry about oil pump gear failure.