Takes atleast 10.5V while cranking for the injectors to open up. Good cranking is always important for these engines. I know it's almost a year old video but it's good to know 👍
That no oil pressure/long crank issue is the low pressure oil pump not being able to supply enough pressure for the hpop. Melling makes a much better low pressure oil pump for the 7.3L. Just make sure you grease the gears of the pump so it helps with priming. The gauge on the dash is reading base oil pressure only (low pressure).
My 97 f350 had the issue with the third brake light bulb was blown and a diesel shop wanted to put a new tranny in it. I did some research and for 2 bucks fixed it with a new bulb.
I used final charge pro series coolant in my 93 idi. It’s supposed to protect against cavitation , liner pitting and water pump corrosion and is good for like 3.5 million miles supposedly. I’ve had zero issues with it thus far
The flashing OD light is likely the TPS. A functioning tach sensor is necessary for the TPS to work properly. I had a bad TPS and tach sensor on my 1993 7.3 IDI that dogged me for years. When the OD light flashes the truck goes into limp mode. Another possibility is the speed sensor. All three have to be healthy and the TPS adjusted correctly for the OD light to quit flashing. Also the TCM capacitors are known to go bad which will throw error codes so the OD light flashes.
Sorry to hear about the footage loss. Worst thing that can happen as a content creator. Best of luck in the future been following this revival series looking forward to hearing her run again.
you need Motorcraft VC-5 coolant with the VC-8 additive. the additive is extremely important to prevent pitting on internals and the brass injector sleeves.
Odometer is not on and OD light is flashing. Thats and issue with the PSOM or the speed sensor or wiring. Wouldnt drive it like that cause that can bake the transmission.
I’ll have to give that a look. I’m leaning toward the vss. I know the odometer was working but I guess it could’ve gone out during the video and I didn’t notice. Thanks for pointing it out. I’ll give it a look
@@FuelTilt I second this. It's so vital it's stupid. Idk what the status is of your repair but if you have not already, I'd send the board in to be tested and repaired. there's a place online that does it for around 150-200$. If your speedo wavers any, ever dies completely while driving, knocks you out of cruise, or gives you P0500 after confirming the wiring is good and the VSS is good (as long as it's clean it should be ok, if it was busted it would not work all the time and not be intermittent) then send the board in. I have yet to do mine but that's the source of my issue.
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When you have to use starter fluid, spray some WD 40 after to help it have some oil to your piston ,
Takes atleast 10.5V while cranking for the injectors to open up. Good cranking is always important for these engines. I know it's almost a year old video but it's good to know 👍
That no oil pressure/long crank issue is the low pressure oil pump not being able to supply enough pressure for the hpop. Melling makes a much better low pressure oil pump for the 7.3L. Just make sure you grease the gears of the pump so it helps with priming. The gauge on the dash is reading base oil pressure only (low pressure).
It was actually due to not cranking over fast enough and the oil viscosity was terrible
I use Hot Shots Everyday treatment in my Diesel fuel
My 97 f350 had the issue with the third brake light bulb was blown and a diesel shop wanted to put a new tranny in it. I did some research and for 2 bucks fixed it with a new bulb.
That’s seems to be a pretty common problem in these trucks. I wonder how many “new transmissions” were not needed but were bought
I used final charge pro series coolant in my 93 idi. It’s supposed to protect against cavitation , liner pitting and water pump corrosion and is good for like 3.5 million miles supposedly. I’ve had zero issues with it thus far
Sometimes these ol 7.3 need both batteries and typically require a lot of cranking amps. Prob help to hook up both idk
The flashing OD light is likely the TPS. A functioning tach sensor is necessary for the TPS to work properly. I had a bad TPS and tach sensor on my 1993 7.3 IDI that dogged me for years. When the OD light flashes the truck goes into limp mode. Another possibility is the speed sensor. All three have to be healthy and the TPS adjusted correctly for the OD light to quit flashing. Also the TCM capacitors are known to go bad which will throw error codes so the OD light flashes.
Sorry to hear about the footage loss. Worst thing that can happen as a content creator. Best of luck in the future been following this revival series looking forward to hearing her run again.
Thanks! Onward and upward.
Led 3rd brake light can cause transmission issues as well.
The funky sounds you heard after killing the truck is the ac controls there on a vacuum system
Beautiful truck 🇧🇼
hotshot secret fuel additive nice ford she needs a buffin and oilin but she will be loyal gotta like these trucks
Will check out the hotshot! Thanks for the info and watching the vid!
you need Motorcraft VC-5 coolant with the VC-8 additive. the additive is extremely important to prevent pitting on internals and the brass injector sleeves.
Thanks for the info!
Any idea how much additive should be added?
4oz of additive per gallon of coolant. trucks capacity is around 8 gallons i believe, so two pint bottles of VC-8 will do.
on my sons truck it was the speed sensor that made his o/d light flash
I’m hoping that’s what the issue ends up being. Thanks for the lead
You gotta drive it for a good 45mins to an hour to get all the air out of the system
Hopefully will get to do that soon
Odometer is not on and OD light is flashing. Thats and issue with the PSOM or the speed sensor or wiring. Wouldnt drive it like that cause that can bake the transmission.
I’ll have to give that a look. I’m leaning toward the vss. I know the odometer was working but I guess it could’ve gone out during the video and I didn’t notice. Thanks for pointing it out. I’ll give it a look
@@FuelTilt I second this. It's so vital it's stupid. Idk what the status is of your repair but if you have not already, I'd send the board in to be tested and repaired. there's a place online that does it for around 150-200$. If your speedo wavers any, ever dies completely while driving, knocks you out of cruise, or gives you P0500 after confirming the wiring is good and the VSS is good (as long as it's clean it should be ok, if it was busted it would not work all the time and not be intermittent) then send the board in. I have yet to do mine but that's the source of my issue.