The second pump or lift pump is the correct one. They make a high flow version depending on the power level you need. The simplicity and durability of a mechanical pump are hard to dismiss. Additionally the manual pump is necessary to prime the fuel filter when it’s replaced. On the engine mount I would definitely consider boxing in the triangle to prevent a place for water to stand and rust.
The first lift pump you tried is a diaphragm lift pump for a ve injection pump the second lift pump you tried is the correct lift pump (piston style) for the p7100 injection pump aka p-pump. If you plan on making serious power you will need to upgrade to an electric lift pump. I hope that helps
Also you mentioned a remote oil filter, may I suggest a 6bt oil filter housing it will put the filter in a vertical position and will look good and no mess when changing oil. Again I hope that helps.
Actually already have the new plate to allow use to use a remote filter. And that makes sense what you said about lift pumps. I found a mechanical one that’s upgraded for more power then we will make for $300 so think ima use that. Originally I was gonna do exactly what you said but when I seen how compact this lift pump was and how simple I decided to go that route. It’ll keep the car more simple in my opinion
@ seems like it’s a mechanical fuel pump. I deleted the original electric Bosch fuel pump from the 2001 f250 7.3. Using the air dog to clean out air and water from the system now. Old Original Fuel Bowl and pump and all the lines are gone.
What do you mean nothing around the mounts? We mocked up the important stuff everything else can be made to work. Steering is easy to build around things so it’s not needed and the upper A arms we already mocked up and know roughly where they go
You really need to research driveshaft pinion angles, you are making a big mistake by setting at zero degrees. Your u-joints on your driveshaft has 4 cups with needle bearing in them. The needle bearing need to rotate to have proper operation of the u-joint. By having a 2 to 3 degree pinion angle allowed/ causes the needle bearings to rotate. Having a zero degree pinion angle does not allow the needle bearing to rotate and this will cause your u-joints have premature failure and possibly dropping your drive shaft and crashing your car. You should have 2 to3 degree pinion angle at your drive/ ride hight. Do your research google it. Don’t learn from your own mistakes.
The pinion angles won’t be at zero. The rear axle and the engine are not at the same height meaning the joints will both be at angles. Also engine gets set at 2.60 - 2.80 degrees during install video which I think is next but even with out this the drive shaft still won’t be at zero due to different heights.
The second pump or lift pump is the correct one. They make a high flow version depending on the power level you need. The simplicity and durability of a mechanical pump are hard to dismiss. Additionally the manual pump is necessary to prime the fuel filter when it’s replaced. On the engine mount I would definitely consider boxing in the triangle to prevent a place for water to stand and rust.
Thanks yea ima order a upgraded one for higher power level applications
Looking good brother Courtney
Thanks Mr Tim
Mounts looked clean and unique for sure
Thanks
So you got Mike's blessings to proceed with the plans to go with the first placement
Yup lol
The Mounts Look Great Nice Job Courtney I Just
Thanks man
Looking good bud gonna be different for sure
Thanks
The first lift pump you tried is a diaphragm lift pump for a ve injection pump the second lift pump you tried is the correct lift pump (piston style) for the p7100 injection pump aka p-pump. If you plan on making serious power you will need to upgrade to an electric lift pump. I hope that helps
Also you mentioned a remote oil filter, may I suggest a 6bt oil filter housing it will put the filter in a vertical position and will look good and no mess when changing oil. Again I hope that helps.
Actually already have the new plate to allow use to use a remote filter. And that makes sense what you said about lift pumps. I found a mechanical one that’s upgraded for more power then we will make for $300 so think ima use that. Originally I was gonna do exactly what you said but when I seen how compact this lift pump was and how simple I decided to go that route. It’ll keep the car more simple in my opinion
What you called a rocker stand is called a trunion. I hope that helps.
Ahhhh ok thanks I didn’t know that
@@ThePaintPaperHustle no problem. I enjoy your videos, keep up the great work
Thanks man!
Sometimes they call a Bosch fuel pump on the 7.3 the lift pump. Deleted and running an Air Dog 2 5G.
I knew the aftermarket stuff was called lift pumps but didn’t know there was OEM block mounted “lift pumps”
@ seems like it’s a mechanical fuel pump. I deleted the original electric Bosch fuel pump from the 2001 f250 7.3. Using the air dog to clean out air and water from the system now. Old Original Fuel Bowl and pump and all the lines are gone.
Yea that’s what I thought
You have to remember you are doing this with Nothing around the mounts no no in fenderwells no A-frames no steering They look good
What do you mean nothing around the mounts? We mocked up the important stuff everything else can be made to work. Steering is easy to build around things so it’s not needed and the upper A arms we already mocked up and know roughly where they go
You really need to research driveshaft pinion angles, you are making a big mistake by setting at zero degrees. Your u-joints on your driveshaft has 4 cups with needle bearing in them. The needle bearing need to rotate to have proper operation of the u-joint. By having a 2 to 3 degree pinion angle allowed/ causes the needle bearings to rotate. Having a zero degree pinion angle does not allow the needle bearing to rotate and this will cause your u-joints have premature failure and possibly dropping your drive shaft and crashing your car. You should have 2 to3 degree pinion angle at your drive/ ride hight. Do your research google it. Don’t learn from your own mistakes.
The pinion angles won’t be at zero. The rear axle and the engine are not at the same height meaning the joints will both be at angles. Also engine gets set at 2.60 - 2.80 degrees during install video which I think is next but even with out this the drive shaft still won’t be at zero due to different heights.
Thanks. I luv the early access.
You’re welcome buddy thank you