If you put a few of the wheel nuts back on loosely you don't need the jack to hold it up and there is no danger of it flinging off and hitting you or something else when it breaks free.
I've been going nuts trying to get the rotors off my Mazda 3. Bought the HF set of 4 pullers, and went right to work. Just about broke one rotor in half, but it popped free. Despite having lubed the threads, they stripped completely off on the second rotor. I may be trying this hydraulic puller if HF won't warranty the broken one.
I pulled it with a 12 ton puller. Only problem; the hub came off with the rotor! I had to press the hub out with the 20 ton press and do the bearing job with the brakes.
lol, funny how mazda3 is mentioned since I just changed my mazda3's front brake's over the weekend. It was it's first brake service and holy hell....the rust was real on this thing. I literally tried everything, and took me 5 hours for one freakin side. What actually got them off was torching the edge where the brake surface and the center meet and I just beat the shit out of it, and I actually separated the rotor. From there i just got a giant crow bar and used the broken part as leverage on the center. Piece of crap popped right off after that.
Get a couple of grade-8 half inch by 4 inch bolts, nuts, and washers. Feed them through the bolt holes where the caliper bracket attaches and force the rotor off a bit at a time. Combine with 'love-taps' from a hand-held sledge. Works much better, safer, and under $10.
That's what you get/have to use when on last brake rotor change you don't use antiseaze between rotors and hubs and on all the bolt threads. and after all that hamering can consider to change bearings as well...
Если тормозной диск снимается для замены, то его просто сбиваем молотком со стороны внутренней колодки, поворачивая диск для нанесения ударов в разных местах. Если диск нужно сохранить, то наносим удары по самому диску молотком, между колёсными шпильками или отверстиями под колёсные болты. Диск освободится от ржавчины и снимется.
I bought the same puller,but saved my receipt...I just pre loaded the puller on the rotor and then smacked the rotor and it came off without all the violence you experienced... Damn things were stuck on there good...
The best way to remove rotors 99% of the time is with an air hammer and a hammer head shank. Just push and vibrate the piss out of the rotor hat and rotor surfaces. Not sure why people say not to hit the rotor surfaces. I have a 7-ton puller just for rotors and the air hammer way works best and with less hard work.
@@DaveRussellmiddlerussell used the bolt method several times on a 2006 and 2011 mazda 3's . Worse cars I've ever worked on for removing the front rotors. Rears were never too bad in comparison. 10 years of rust buildup from northern canadian roads. Cost of the gear puller would equate to letting someone else deal with the royal pain in the first place.
****DON'T EVER put a bolt and washer through the mounting holes for the caliper as I completely ruined both my knuckles as it completely bent the mounting holes. USE THE PROPER TOOLS. This will save you a ton on money in the long run. I'm now out $500 for new knuckles and no vehicle for a week.😡Don't try to bend them back into place either as they cast iron and they will snap . Be Safe! I will now be ordering the hydraulic puller.
Bro if u removed the two screws u cld use one of them n screw it into the hole u see on the rotor. The threaded hole is there for that reason. In regards to the first two rotors u sure u removed all bolts cos that was hectic never seen anything stuck like that in all my TH-cam searches
Tried using the screw idea, didn’t work. All the bolts were removed. Those routers were on for many years and the wet, snow, and salt create a rust weld. The same thing happened to my father’s Jeep.
My bad for assuming I’m lucky it works for me but seems my drive shaft is seized onto the hub was going to order same thing u have but after seeing that crazy rotor snapping I think I might take it to a pro. Hats off to ya u crazy bro!
@@maritimezhang heat up the hat and spray thru the hub and lug nut holes then hit with the hammer and be sure to repaint the hubs with neverseize before you install the new one
Just ran across this video looking for something else; next time you get one that won't come off hammer directly on the face of the rotor hat between the studs. Even better, use an air hammer. Usually it doesn't take that long and they'll give up and fall off. Even with badly corroded ones like you've got there. Cool puller though.
Before I used the gear puller I did try to hammer between the studs but I didn't have an air hammer. I was also scared to mess up the threads on the bolts. The great part of the puller is that it takes very limited effort to get the rotor off. Thank you for the tips. I need to change the rotors on a Jeep Grand Cherokee soon. I'll try what you suggested again before I use the gear puller.
It looks like he was attempting to take off the rotor without removing the 2 retaining bolts that he said he didn't feel like taking off. If he'd have removed those first, the rotor should have popped right off.
I always put Never Seeze on all the threaded fasteners and back to back metals that might marry themselves together over time. Did it on all customer cars, even though I may never see it again. Lo and behold, many of the same cars would return and I was glad I did it when I had the opportunity to do so.
I pulled it with a 12 ton puller. Only problem; the hub came off with the rotor! I had to press the hub out with the 20 ton press and do the bearing job with the brakes.
If you put a few of the wheel nuts back on loosely you don't need the jack to hold it up and there is no danger of it flinging off and hitting you or something else when it breaks free.
That's why a little copper grease when assembling ferrous parts can avoid many problems
If you load the pullers against the disc then beat it with a hammer it might come off easier
I've been going nuts trying to get the rotors off my Mazda 3. Bought the HF set of 4 pullers, and went right to work. Just about broke one rotor in half, but it popped free.
Despite having lubed the threads, they stripped completely off on the second rotor.
I may be trying this hydraulic puller if HF won't warranty the broken one.
Some people should never do mechanical work, this guy is one.
This helped me yesterday, I was on a 1 hour battle with my rotor stuck on the spindle, i used this tool and literally takes less than 3 mins
I pulled it with a 12 ton puller. Only problem; the hub came off with
the rotor! I had to press the hub out with the 20 ton press and do the
bearing job with the brakes.
lol, funny how mazda3 is mentioned since I just changed my mazda3's front brake's over the weekend. It was it's first brake service and holy hell....the rust was real on this thing. I literally tried everything, and took me 5 hours for one freakin side. What actually got them off was torching the edge where the brake surface and the center meet and I just beat the shit out of it, and I actually separated the rotor. From there i just got a giant crow bar and used the broken part as leverage on the center. Piece of crap popped right off after that.
Oh my god that was the funniest thing I have seen in some time may be some C-4 next time ... Please keep up the good work ....
I’m having the same problem. Seems like Mazda loved to “weld” on their rotors.
I don’t think safety goggles will protect you when something comes flying off and hits you..just saying
Always spray WD40 before removing
Get a couple of grade-8 half inch by 4 inch bolts, nuts, and washers. Feed them through the bolt holes where the caliper bracket attaches and force the rotor off a bit at a time. Combine with 'love-taps' from a hand-held sledge. Works much better, safer, and under $10.
That's what you get/have to use when on last brake rotor change you don't use antiseaze between rotors and hubs and on all the bolt threads. and after all that hamering can consider to change bearings as well...
For som reason Mazda rotors are notorious for being glued into place. Even ones that have anti seize are a bear to remove.
Если тормозной диск снимается для замены, то его просто сбиваем молотком со стороны внутренней колодки, поворачивая диск для нанесения ударов в разных местах. Если диск нужно сохранить, то наносим удары по самому диску молотком, между колёсными шпильками или отверстиями под колёсные болты. Диск освободится от ржавчины и снимется.
insert the factory caliper crews backwards and tighten. worked for me. POP!
That's crazy what you had do to get the rotor off. Must be typical of Mazda. I hope put some anti-seize before you put in new rotor.
Just slacken off the wheel nuts, drive forwards at 5mph then stamp on the brakes.
Usually come off with heat applied to rotor.
I bought the same puller,but saved my receipt...I just pre loaded the puller on the rotor and then smacked the rotor and it came off without all the violence you experienced... Damn things were stuck on there good...
Holy crap!
The best way to remove rotors 99% of the time is with an air hammer and a hammer head shank. Just push and vibrate the piss out of the rotor hat and rotor surfaces. Not sure why people say not to hit the rotor surfaces. I have a 7-ton puller just for rotors and the air hammer way works best and with less hard work.
Wd40 and dead blow hammer from the back hitting evenly.
You see that 8mm threaded hole at 6 o'clock? That's to put in a bolt to force off the disc
Those threads probably wouldn't withstand the force that was necessary to get the rotor separated from the hub in the case of the first car.
Bro, What did you do to the broken rotor...the rest part of it is still stick on the hub
I hit it once with the hammer and it came off quite easily. The puller loosened it up.
You may also scrap the last undamaged rotor 😂
ركب حديد نصف دائره من الخلف بين الاصابع والهوب عشان ماينكسر لان هذا الهوب سريع الكسر
RIP brake dust guard. lol
just wack the backside with a hammer... you're replacing them anyway.
Bolt washer and a nut through the back is the safest and easiest method buddy
Matthew Willoughby tried that before this video. It was fused on
@@DaveRussellmiddlerussell dang must have been. Its crazy how rust fuses them on there
@@DaveRussellmiddlerussell used the bolt method several times on a 2006 and 2011 mazda 3's . Worse cars I've ever worked on for removing the front rotors. Rears were never too bad in comparison. 10 years of rust buildup from northern canadian roads. Cost of the gear puller would equate to letting someone else deal with the royal pain in the first place.
@@matthewwilloughby2594 Rust marries the two metals together. Scary.
****DON'T EVER put a bolt and washer through the mounting holes for the caliper as I completely ruined both my knuckles as it completely bent the mounting holes. USE THE PROPER TOOLS. This will save you a ton on money in the long run. I'm now out $500 for new knuckles and no vehicle for a week.😡Don't try to bend them back into place either as they cast iron and they will snap . Be Safe! I will now be ordering the hydraulic puller.
Bro if u removed the two screws u cld use one of them n screw it into the hole u see on the rotor. The threaded hole is there for that reason. In regards to the first two rotors u sure u removed all bolts cos that was hectic never seen anything stuck like that in all my TH-cam searches
Tried using the screw idea, didn’t work. All the bolts were removed. Those routers were on for many years and the wet, snow, and salt create a rust weld. The same thing happened to my father’s Jeep.
My bad for assuming I’m lucky it works for me but seems my drive shaft is seized onto the hub was going to order same thing u have but after seeing that crazy rotor snapping I think I might take it to a pro. Hats off to ya u crazy bro!
I am currently in the same situation. The rotor and the hub wheel are rusted together. nothing is working.
@@maritimezhang heat up the hat and spray thru the hub and lug nut holes then hit with the hammer and be sure to repaint the hubs with neverseize before you install the new one
You have to hammer carefully near the lugs.
Hey, can you send me the brand of that tool.Thank you
harborfreight.com/5-ton-three-jaw-hydraulic-gear-puller-95326.html
@@DaveRussellmiddlerussell ...tnks body!
It hurts just to watch...
Next time unscrew axle nut first.
Just ran across this video looking for something else; next time you get one that won't come off hammer directly on the face of the rotor hat between the studs. Even better, use an air hammer. Usually it doesn't take that long and they'll give up and fall off. Even with badly corroded ones like you've got there. Cool puller though.
Before I used the gear puller I did try to hammer between the studs but I didn't have an air hammer. I was also scared to mess up the threads on the bolts. The great part of the puller is that it takes very limited effort to get the rotor off. Thank you for the tips. I need to change the rotors on a Jeep Grand Cherokee soon. I'll try what you suggested again before I use the gear puller.
Hammering doesn't always work. Why were you looking for "something else" if hammering works???
It looks like he was attempting to take off the rotor without removing the 2 retaining bolts that he said he didn't feel like taking off. If he'd have removed those first, the rotor should have popped right off.
Stfu
You’re a bad car owner, I live in the saltiest of snow places. That ain’t shit
I ain't seeing this am i ?
mazda is poor car, stupid maker.!!! hahaha i have seen like this mazda rotor so much times
Maybe if you took the nut off first it would have came off.
No'ooo please Please stop!!!
Fucking mazdas
Uhhhhh uhmmmmm use anti seize this time
fluid film is the best for the reinstall
@@scottmackenzie5736 I could see that but I would worry about it running once it gets hot
I always put Never Seeze on all the threaded fasteners and back to back metals that might marry themselves together over time. Did it on all customer cars, even though I may never see it again. Lo and behold, many of the same cars would return and I was glad I did it when I had the opportunity to do so.
I pulled it with a 12 ton puller. Only problem; the hub came off with
the rotor! I had to press the hub out with the 20 ton press and do the
bearing job with the brakes.
If you load the pullers against the disc then beat it with a hammer it might come off easier