Thank you Mr. Zarbo. I'm glad you decided to make a dedicated channel filled with such helpful tutorials, and tips. Great work. I'll try these tips and check in often.
I can't stand loud noises, so speaker building isn't my jam. However, your tips apply to general wood working AND I've never seen most of them presented in tip videos from that genre. I've been branching out to other niches that work with wood for their tips and I am floored at how much I'm learning. Thank you.
Спасибо за советы, некоторые я взял на вооружение! Делюсь своим опытом. 8:50 В подобных случаях я пропитываю края изделия эпоксидной смолой, подогревая место пропитки электрическим феном для волос, так эпоксидная смола приобретает большую текучесть и проникает глубже в поры материала.
Original in English: Thanks for the tips, I've adopted some of them! I share my experience. 8:50 In such cases, I impregnate the edges of the product with epoxy resin, heating the place of impregnation with an electric hair dryer, so the epoxy resin acquires greater fluidity and penetrates deeper into the pores of the material. Response: Thanks for watching and commenting! That's an interesting solution. Epoxy does stop pretty much any moisture movement. Have you tried this with the heat-lock Iron-On veneer method? Or would you need to use contact cement? Good tip, thanks for sharing! Russian: Спасибо за просмотр и комментарий! Это интересное решение. Эпоксидная смола останавливает практически любое движение влаги. Пробовали ли вы это с помощью метода шпона Iron-On с термофиксацией? Или вам нужно будет использовать контактный цемент? Хороший совет, спасибо, что поделились!
another great video!👍 appreciate you sharing the tough lessons and great tips you've learned over decades of speaker building. it's contributors like you that makes the diy speaker building community great. thanks!
1 tip I would recommend after building a few spears is to when gluing up panels is to use some painters tape on the edges you don't want covered in glue. Makes clean up a lot easier.
Hey Thomas ! It's Ron again...the guy that owned the PS-8's. Have you ever made a speaker where the woofer is encased seperately from the other components and rounded the inside of the woofer box ? I assume you'd use spray foam and perhaps a ball or balloon the same size as the woofer. No corners inside, just a tube essentially with a rounded back end. My Delcoid subwoofer was built like this.
It makes the energy move straight forward back to the cone rather than having it bounce around off the sharp corners of a box. In my experience, bass seems tighter, faster , less boomy, and also seems to be punchier...even more so than a standard sealed enclosure. I was considering trying to build one, but my friend that I sold the Delcoids to back in 1989 asked if I wanted to buy them back. Problem solved. @@zarboaudioprojects1430
Thanks for doing these instructional videos Thomas. I'm still working on the CSS Criton 1TD-X. I did the front baffle round overs. I bought Heatlock Glue and the roller from Joe. I'm using mahogany veneer. I'll be thinking of your tips as I proceed. .
That should be a nice sounding speaker. I've met the owners... talked with Kerry a bit, they both really know their stuff. I hope they come out looking and sounding great.
I've never stabbed a driver so I figure I'm due for one of those. I did discover that my router base wasn't centered cutting some 1" black walnut. Depending on how I locked it in the circle cutting jig it could be up to 1/2" off. I went to put my driver in the hole and it almost fell though. I thought the tears would make the wood swell enough to make it work but it didn't turn out that way. Like you, I have a million more stories involving "Oops" and "hmmmm, that didn't work" and let's not forget "well...... crap".
Yup. I actually use a drill driver to get the screw 95% of the way in... then I use a screwdriver to apply the finish torque. Woodworking = the art of fixing screw-ups. -- Me
The reason(s) your finish failed are due to prep... Exotic woods are naturally oily as well as some domestic woods. It's super important to use an alcohol such denatured alcohol or even acetone to wipe on with a lint free cloth. Give it a blow with an air line and then spray on a good sealer like Zinnser Sand Coat. It's compatible with all finishes since it's un-waxed...
Thanks for that advice. What threw me off was how many times I had used that same species of wood with no issues. From now on, though, I will always test on some scrap first. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Thank you Mr. Zarbo. I'm glad you decided to make a dedicated channel filled with such helpful tutorials, and tips. Great work. I'll try these tips and check in often.
Hey, thanks for watching and commenting!
I can't stand loud noises, so speaker building isn't my jam. However, your tips apply to general wood working AND I've never seen most of them presented in tip videos from that genre.
I've been branching out to other niches that work with wood for their tips and I am floored at how much I'm learning. Thank you.
Great! I'm glad you found something I did useful. Why should we ALL have to learn stuff the hard way? : )
Loved these! Keep them coming!
Thank you! I'm doing the best I can for an old guy! : )
Great video!
Thanks!
Спасибо за советы, некоторые я взял на вооружение! Делюсь своим опытом. 8:50 В подобных случаях я пропитываю края изделия эпоксидной смолой, подогревая место пропитки электрическим феном для волос, так эпоксидная смола приобретает большую текучесть и проникает глубже в поры материала.
Original in English: Thanks for the tips, I've adopted some of them! I share my experience. 8:50 In such cases, I impregnate the edges of the product with epoxy resin, heating the place of impregnation with an electric hair dryer, so the epoxy resin acquires greater fluidity and penetrates deeper into the pores of the material.
Response: Thanks for watching and commenting! That's an interesting solution. Epoxy does stop pretty much any moisture movement. Have you tried this with the heat-lock Iron-On veneer method? Or would you need to use contact cement? Good tip, thanks for sharing!
Russian: Спасибо за просмотр и комментарий! Это интересное решение. Эпоксидная смола останавливает практически любое движение влаги. Пробовали ли вы это с помощью метода шпона Iron-On с термофиксацией? Или вам нужно будет использовать контактный цемент? Хороший совет, спасибо, что поделились!
Great video and good information. Especially the advice concerning pilot holes and drill drivers. Haste can sometimes make waste out of a driver.
Glad you liked the video, Thanks for watching and commenting!
gooood tips! thankyou sir
Thanks, I hope they help your next speaker project!
another great video!👍 appreciate you sharing the tough lessons and great tips you've learned over decades of speaker building. it's contributors like you that makes the diy speaker building community great. thanks!
I appreciate that! Thanks a lot for watching and commenting!
1 tip I would recommend after building a few spears is to when gluing up panels is to use some painters tape on the edges you don't want covered in glue. Makes clean up a lot easier.
That's a good tip! Thanks for watching and commenting.
Great tips Tom. Thank you!
You're very welcome! Thank you for watching and commenting.
Hey, Tom, great woodworking skills, this is very useful I also use different methods in the video to make speakers Support you, come on
Thanks, I appreciate the feedback!
Very good content, and well presented.
Thanks! Thank you for watching and commenting.
Hey Thomas ! It's Ron again...the guy that owned the PS-8's. Have you ever made a speaker where the woofer is encased seperately from the other components and rounded the inside of the woofer box ? I assume you'd use spray foam and perhaps a ball or balloon the same size as the woofer. No corners inside, just a tube essentially with a rounded back end. My Delcoid subwoofer was built like this.
I've never made or imagined something like that. What would be the benefits of that, do you think?
It makes the energy move straight forward back to the cone rather than having it bounce around off the sharp corners of a box. In my experience, bass seems tighter, faster , less boomy, and also seems to be punchier...even more so than a standard sealed enclosure. I was considering trying to build one, but my friend that I sold the Delcoids to back in 1989 asked if I wanted to buy them back. Problem solved.
@@zarboaudioprojects1430
Thanks for doing these instructional videos Thomas. I'm still working on the CSS Criton 1TD-X. I did the front baffle round overs. I bought Heatlock Glue and the roller from Joe. I'm using mahogany veneer. I'll be thinking of your tips as I proceed.
.
That should be a nice sounding speaker. I've met the owners... talked with Kerry a bit, they both really know their stuff. I hope they come out looking and sounding great.
@ZarboAudioProjects what speakers are in the background? Are there plans?
Those are the Bantam MTM's which I never fully finished crossover-wise.
I hope to do a video on the original Bantams this year. Thanks for commenting!
I've never stabbed a driver so I figure I'm due for one of those. I did discover that my router base wasn't centered cutting some 1" black walnut. Depending on how I locked it in the circle cutting jig it could be up to 1/2" off. I went to put my driver in the hole and it almost fell though. I thought the tears would make the wood swell enough to make it work but it didn't turn out that way. Like you, I have a million more stories involving "Oops" and "hmmmm, that didn't work" and let's not forget "well...... crap".
Yup. I actually use a drill driver to get the screw 95% of the way in... then I use a screwdriver to apply the finish torque. Woodworking = the art of fixing screw-ups. -- Me
Is this going to become a series?
I'm not sure if I'll do another one. Goodness knows I've fixed enough goofs to do a dozen of these videos though. Thanks for watching!
The reason(s) your finish failed are due to prep... Exotic woods are naturally oily as well as some domestic woods. It's super important to use an alcohol such denatured alcohol or even acetone to wipe on with a lint free cloth. Give it a blow with an air line and then spray on a good sealer like Zinnser Sand Coat. It's compatible with all finishes since it's un-waxed...
Thanks for that advice. What threw me off was how many times I had used that same species of wood with no issues. From now on, though, I will always test on some scrap first. Thanks for watching and commenting!