This guy really knows his stuff about building enclosures ! I am in the process of finishing up an install using an enclosure design created by him , and although i still have some fine tuning to do to the amps...everyone that has heard it thus far are trully impressed and cant believe 4 10" subs are producing that much sound !
These are great tips, I recently built my first bass box using just hand tools, and it turned out well, but I had to do a lot of hand sanding to finish it. I also used simple binding posts to save time and money.
Great video. I always have my panels sawn to length by the DIY store. But I too had issues with panels not ending up precisely the right size, so last couple times I account for that in that I have some specific panels made 2mm bigger on purpose so that I can make everything fit nicely using a router and flush trim bit. What I also do is draw out the panel cuts for the DIY store guy, so that the saw doesn't have to be reconfigured to saw different panels with matching lengths / widths.
I use a circular saw to tear down a plywood sheet with Kreg Rip cut guide. No matter how much you try, there is a chance that there are some boards which are not perfectly square and some edges which are not perfect 90 degrees. I end up using a Flush trim bit with a perfect square board as a template. Since I am tight on storage space and have no place for a table saw, I end up spending time on making the edges square, with a flush trim bit, which also makes the edges as close to 90 degrees as possible. I bought a lot of clamps (still not enough :) ), and I do end up gluing the whole box together at once (without the baffle though). I built the speakers called "Continuum II" this way and a sub woofer called "Baby boomers" following Jeff Bagby's designs. This is obviously more time consuming, but quite accurate. I also make sure to get router bits as well as good saw blades. This way my plywood sheets don't tear. And the results are quite close to accurate with smaller tools. Thanks for talking about the 90 degree angle problem :) That is a great advice. I did mess up my first box since I was assembling panels 2 at a time, and had to redo all of it.
Screws in MDF endgrain is never a good option. Glue only is fine, maybe use a couple of nails so the panel(s) are not sliding - pull the nails back out later in case you want to modify (cut) them back down someday. The use of weights is very handy for box building, if you have the time.
Great tips! Another tip is when you have to cut two identical panels (I.e. front and back panels) tape them together with double-sided tape and cut them together.
I use T-nuts or those things you screw into the wood with threads for the drivers. That way I can remove and install them without worrying that wooden screws will eventually come loose.
Screws can (and IMHO should) be removed after the glue is completely cured. Then drill out the holes to allow for dowels, or fill them up. Just make sure there will be no air pockets!
I'm kind of tired of building my own speakers because I'm not very good with the finishing , but at the same time the speakers you buy are pretty lousy. The drivers are cheap , the crossovers are terrible and even the box is usually lightweight unless you dish out big big money.
Great job on the boxes but I just wanted to know if I have a ported box specially made for port can I still plugged it and it’s not what happens if I plug port?
@@AudioJudgement thanks but I asked the company if I can do it and they said no. I wonder why they would tell me know instead of go ahead and try it out .
I mean, it's expected to have worse performance, so they are not encouraging you to do it, but there is no problem in doing so. There are speakers which come from the factory with dense sponge plugs and you can convert the enclosure from bass reflex to sealed if you wanted to.
When you decide on the boxes you want to build, ask around and find out if you can make a couple of boxes for someone else as well. Tell them “Here is the deal: You pay for the materials, and I will charge nothing for my labor, or use of tools (which do become dull over time). “. * You now have the opportunity to practice building a couple boxes BEFORE going forward to build a pair for yourself. The 2nd pair will take less time and you will do a better job, having learned from your small mistakes.
Very good tips. Though if anyone tries to get their stuff cut at Home Depot or Lowe's I'd recommend simplifying the cuts as much as possible and bringing a tape measurer. And avoided getting any cuts done by people who are in any way rude or grumpy. They don't care about you and your cuts and will screw It up. (Or maybe bring a snickers for them if they are) My cuts were so far off I couldn't fix them after the fact because they were both 1/4" or 1/2" too short and too long. I could fix them if they were too long. But too short made it worthless to me. I ended up finding a seller of higher quality Baltic Birch Plywood thanks to that though. So that was a good thing. The plywood seller also cut the plywood for a small fee with accuracy so good I'd say it was within 1/8th of an inch to my dimensions I provided. I did provide a cut sheet which helped simplify the job for them. But they had a very fancy saw thing that made it easy to do that. With all that said if anyone even reads this far into this. I have also had a great experience with Lowe's. The person there that day was wasn't rude or grumpy at all and felt like they were at least happy to be there and help. So the cuts they helped with were pretty much within 1/4" which is more than acceptable considering I just needed a couple of panels trimmed down to fit in my suv to be further cut on a friends table saw.
I'd just like to add that giving them a tip when the manager isn't looking couldn't hurt either. Most of those employees aren't paid much and have tedious jobs, so doing a whole bunch of extra work for the same pay can be rather annoying. I have been in that scenario lol. I never expected tips, nor would I give a crappy cut because I was annoyed, but I can see why someone would. Especially for a very persnickety customer. My company actually charged extra for cuts, but I didn't get anything out of it myself lol.
idk if this is a stupid question, but something i just thought of, can you use 2 ports of different leingth to get kinda 2 tunings, each perhaps not as good as if it was just 1, but both would resonate at different frequencies and perhaps?
For my work so far, and granted I've only been at this for a few months, but I've settled on "Gorilla Wood Glue" and it's turned out to be a better product than other glues that are almost 50% more expensive.
You can use screws or staples. In my opinion they are quite optional. Unless you don't have clamps. In that case, they help in gluing the panels together.
I was lookking at bolty Binding Posts online, and for most the body is just brass, but gold-plated and they are very affordable. Looking up Brass in electric circuits, it is claimed that it delivers only about 20% of the conducting of pure Copper. Now is this gold-plating make this cheap binding posts still good binding posts, or do I have to go for the pure copper ones, if I want to have a good binding post?
If you have a very high-end audio system and think that the binding posts material will make a difference, go for copper ones. If not, I don't feel like it's worth the hassle. The fact that it's gold plated, has nothing to do with conductivity (gold is worse than copper in terms of conductivity). Gold is very soft in its natural state and it assures a good contact when pressed against another material.
@@AudioJudgement Thank you for sharing your point of view on this topic. 👍 I don't like both options, one for the signal-path's sake and the other for the costs. I just like the Idea to make all as good as possible limited only by my capabilities. So I will separate the crossover inside the speaker from the rest of the speaker-volume and make it accessible from the back of the speaker, so the cable from the Amp can be connected directly to the crossover. Case closed.🙏
Normally, wood glue should be enough for sealing things up. However, if you want to add silicone to the inner creases, that can only be a good things, as there might be tiny leakages which will be fixed.
Nice video! How about using gasketing tape between the enclosure and bass reflex port? If you screw it tightly, the tape will not allow rattling sound and it seals it perfectly at the same time. Or do you have another experience?
It works, but I like silicone better as it acts like an adhesive and the port is not fixed in alone screws. If you want to use screws and gasket tape, I suggest to drill more holes into the port and use more screws (6-8 not just 4).
@@AudioJudgement i see.. you are right, it completely makes sense.. silicone properties are incomperable with the tape.. I am now in phase of designing my first speakers. If I go with port, I will try your tip!
If building vocal pa cabs, wedges, or bass/ guitar driver cabs, ALWAYS USE SCREWS!!!! These are not sitting in a room for 5-10yrs, they are heavy duty cabs. 12mm+ mdf glued, braced and glued, handles can be added as made, or a long oval if its not sealed. Corner cover bits and carpet keeps them flash, or just spray your cabs matt blck, (after sanding corners back a bit) Then get the guy that drew that sicklogo with a skull and wings and inverted crosses that nobody has bn able to work out yet, and Varg's yer uncle. Also these may need to be wired using 1/4" plugs like guitar leads or balanced canon plugs. Just make sure you test on a large amp, this avoids overload clipping, and as long as before distortion you later get a call from noise control, the 'annoy shitty snob neighbours' circuit is funcioning optimally
Great vid buddy. I’ll give you a tip if you or your viewers watching didn’t know. I hope your wearing a good quality Dust particle mask. That MDF is some seriously nasty stuff. Don’t take this as a joke please. Regards Mario 🇦🇺
I have been taking this a bit more seriously. Got a 3M mask and I try to wear it always while in the workshop, regardless if I cut something or not. Thought about fancy dust extraction, but a good mask is cheaper and more effective if wore properly,
Tip #3...........Screws aren't mandatory............ but I see at 4:46 in your video that you have many screws in your cabinet construction. LOL. Come on! Which one is it? Screws or no screws?!
You can do whatever you want. There is no right or wrong. If you don’t have (enough) clamps you can use screws to fix the panels and finish the box. Sometimes its easier this way. It’s not for structural advantage. Some people say that boxes without screws are weak, which is not true.
just a suggestion...sincerely i'm not being mean. but the phony accent could only decrease the view count. as it right off the bat gives the video the theme or artificial. you may not care of what the view count is and i understand....my b....just a suggestion.....cheers
Dude. Can you not write a sentence without three periods in a row? You may be trying to be dramatic but you instead come across as pretentious. Just use a single fullstop
@@IcchiNutz I should have known better: Proverbs 9:7-8 (7 Whoever corrects a mocker invites insults; whoever rebukes the wicked incurs abuse. 8 Do not rebuke mockers or they will hate you; rebuke the wise and they will love you. ) I meant no harm. It's your video not mine. Toodles
This guy really knows his stuff about building enclosures ! I am in the process of finishing up an install using an enclosure design created by him , and although i still have some fine tuning to do to the amps...everyone that has heard it thus far are trully impressed and cant believe 4 10" subs are producing that much sound !
These are great tips, I recently built my first bass box using just hand tools, and it turned out well, but I had to do a lot of hand sanding to finish it. I also used simple binding posts to save time and money.
Great video. I always have my panels sawn to length by the DIY store. But I too had issues with panels not ending up precisely the right size, so last couple times I account for that in that I have some specific panels made 2mm bigger on purpose so that I can make everything fit nicely using a router and flush trim bit. What I also do is draw out the panel cuts for the DIY store guy, so that the saw doesn't have to be reconfigured to saw different panels with matching lengths / widths.
I did the same
I used wooden pegs first before I glued my speaker box panels together. I sanded down where needed and it went fairly well.
Thank"s .Wonderful tips.Thinking of building floorstanding speaker.
Good and reasonable tips. Thanks for the Advice
The last comment was great :)
I remember my first boxes going together with 'no more nails' thick goo not PVA lol
Great tips! Simple too..
I use a circular saw to tear down a plywood sheet with Kreg Rip cut guide. No matter how much you try, there is a chance that there are some boards which are not perfectly square and some edges which are not perfect 90 degrees. I end up using a Flush trim bit with a perfect square board as a template. Since I am tight on storage space and have no place for a table saw, I end up spending time on making the edges square, with a flush trim bit, which also makes the edges as close to 90 degrees as possible. I bought a lot of clamps (still not enough :) ), and I do end up gluing the whole box together at once (without the baffle though). I built the speakers called "Continuum II" this way and a sub woofer called "Baby boomers" following Jeff Bagby's designs.
This is obviously more time consuming, but quite accurate. I also make sure to get router bits as well as good saw blades. This way my plywood sheets don't tear. And the results are quite close to accurate with smaller tools.
Thanks for talking about the 90 degree angle problem :) That is a great advice. I did mess up my first box since I was assembling panels 2 at a time, and had to redo all of it.
Excellent advice!
Now I just need a workshop and tools ;-) Nah, it's Ok. Thanks for a great video.
I disagree on the use of screws , however this was a great informative video! 👍
Screws in MDF endgrain is never a good option. Glue only is fine, maybe use a couple of nails so the panel(s) are not sliding - pull the nails back out later in case you want to modify (cut) them back down someday. The use of weights is very handy for box building, if you have the time.
Great tips! Another tip is when you have to cut two identical panels (I.e. front and back panels) tape them together with double-sided tape and cut them together.
Why would you do that?
Like your videos. Also bought some courses from Udemy and those were very useful. Thanks Marius for your advices. :)
I use T-nuts or those things you screw into the wood with threads for the drivers. That way I can remove and install them without worrying that wooden screws will eventually come loose.
Screws can (and IMHO should) be removed after the glue is completely cured. Then drill out the holes to allow for dowels, or fill them up. Just make sure there will be no air pockets!
Great tips! Very helpful!
I'm kind of tired of building my own speakers because I'm not very good with the finishing , but at the same time the speakers you buy are pretty lousy. The drivers are cheap , the crossovers are terrible and even the box is usually lightweight unless you dish out big big money.
Finishing is a skill, don't get discouraged, lots of great videos on you tube regarding wood finish, practice.
Any recommendation on wood type and thickness?
I always love videos
Oh, If only I had 'Popeye' forearms. Lol. Great video!
Great job on the boxes but I just wanted to know if I have a ported box specially made for port can I still plugged it and it’s not what happens if I plug port?
Then you’ll have a perfectly working sealed box. Presuming that you plugged the port correctly and there is no leakage.
@@AudioJudgement thanks but I asked the company if I can do it and they said no. I wonder why they would tell me know instead of go ahead and try it out .
I mean, it's expected to have worse performance, so they are not encouraging you to do it, but there is no problem in doing so. There are speakers which come from the factory with dense sponge plugs and you can convert the enclosure from bass reflex to sealed if you wanted to.
@@AudioJudgement I understand but is it the same for subwoofer that’s what I’m referring to ?
Ported enclosures are mainly for subwoofer. So, yes, I'm including subwoofers as well.
How do u usually clamp port spots if it's near the middle of the box with clamps
When you decide on the boxes you want to build, ask around and find out if you can make a couple of boxes for someone else as well. Tell them “Here is the deal: You pay for the materials, and I will charge nothing for my labor, or use of tools (which do become dull over time). “. * You now have the opportunity to practice building a couple boxes BEFORE going forward to build a pair for yourself. The 2nd pair will take less time and you will do a better job, having learned from your small mistakes.
FOR BINDING POSTS I USE REGULAR COPPER SCREWS THEY LOOK GREAT AND WORK EXCELLENT.
Also remember to use a proper mask with ventilation when cutting/sanding/etc MDF. The urea-formaldehyde is carcinogenic.
Any idea why we don't see any Midfield DIY active crossover 3-way designs. Like at all?
Very good tips.
Though if anyone tries to get their stuff cut at Home Depot or Lowe's I'd recommend simplifying the cuts as much as possible and bringing a tape measurer. And avoided getting any cuts done by people who are in any way rude or grumpy. They don't care about you and your cuts and will screw It up. (Or maybe bring a snickers for them if they are)
My cuts were so far off I couldn't fix them after the fact because they were both 1/4" or 1/2" too short and too long. I could fix them if they were too long. But too short made it worthless to me.
I ended up finding a seller of higher quality Baltic Birch Plywood thanks to that though. So that was a good thing. The plywood seller also cut the plywood for a small fee with accuracy so good I'd say it was within 1/8th of an inch to my dimensions I provided. I did provide a cut sheet which helped simplify the job for them. But they had a very fancy saw thing that made it easy to do that.
With all that said if anyone even reads this far into this. I have also had a great experience with Lowe's. The person there that day was wasn't rude or grumpy at all and felt like they were at least happy to be there and help. So the cuts they helped with were pretty much within 1/4" which is more than acceptable considering I just needed a couple of panels trimmed down to fit in my suv to be further cut on a friends table saw.
I'd just like to add that giving them a tip when the manager isn't looking couldn't hurt either. Most of those employees aren't paid much and have tedious jobs, so doing a whole bunch of extra work for the same pay can be rather annoying. I have been in that scenario lol. I never expected tips, nor would I give a crappy cut because I was annoyed, but I can see why someone would. Especially for a very persnickety customer. My company actually charged extra for cuts, but I didn't get anything out of it myself lol.
Why do you need 90 degree angles? Perfectly symmetric surfaces amplify standing waves 😅
Plz make a video how to build a 6" subwoofer box 👍👍
Plz mention u r using wood glue
idk if this is a stupid question, but something i just thought of, can you use 2 ports of different leingth to get kinda 2 tunings, each perhaps not as good as if it was just 1, but both would resonate at different frequencies and perhaps?
Fisher has already done this and i'm sure many others have also but idk how it sounds because i haven't heard any of them.
what is the best glue?
For my work so far, and granted I've only been at this for a few months, but I've settled on "Gorilla Wood Glue" and it's turned out to be a better product than other glues that are almost 50% more expensive.
thanks
can staples be used instead of screws?
You can use screws or staples. In my opinion they are quite optional. Unless you don't have clamps. In that case, they help in gluing the panels together.
Sir, i have 5 speakers,
2x 12ohms
3x 4ohms
What wiring should I do? Please 🙏🥺
I was lookking at bolty Binding Posts online, and for most the body is just brass, but gold-plated and they are very affordable. Looking up Brass in electric circuits, it is claimed that it delivers only about 20% of the conducting of pure Copper. Now is this gold-plating make this cheap binding posts still good binding posts, or do I have to go for the pure copper ones, if I want to have a good binding post?
If you have a very high-end audio system and think that the binding posts material will make a difference, go for copper ones. If not, I don't feel like it's worth the hassle. The fact that it's gold plated, has nothing to do with conductivity (gold is worse than copper in terms of conductivity). Gold is very soft in its natural state and it assures a good contact when pressed against another material.
@@AudioJudgement Thank you for sharing your point of view on this topic. 👍
I don't like both options, one for the signal-path's sake and the other for the costs. I just like the Idea to make all as good as possible limited only by my capabilities. So I will separate the crossover inside the speaker from the rest of the speaker-volume and make it accessible from the back of the speaker, so the cable from the Amp can be connected directly to the crossover. Case closed.🙏
@@davidzoller9617 ... gold also does not oxidize like copper (or silver). gold is a good conductor w/o the oxidation.
@@K03sport Yes, I know.
Is there a benefit to silicone/mastic on the inner creases(corners/angles) for holding sound in?
Normally, wood glue should be enough for sealing things up. However, if you want to add silicone to the inner creases, that can only be a good things, as there might be tiny leakages which will be fixed.
I always put a small bead of silicone in all inside corners. I like to know without a doubt it’s sealed right.
Another great video Marius, I've a question about ports, should these be rounded at the corner or can I use some flat ports 3D printed?
Rounding edges is always a good idea. Flat can work if port air velocity is not high.
@@AudioJudgement Thank U Marius, have a great 2022
thanks！
Nice video! How about using gasketing tape between the enclosure and bass reflex port? If you screw it tightly, the tape will not allow rattling sound and it seals it perfectly at the same time. Or do you have another experience?
It works, but I like silicone better as it acts like an adhesive and the port is not fixed in alone screws. If you want to use screws and gasket tape, I suggest to drill more holes into the port and use more screws (6-8 not just 4).
@@AudioJudgement i see.. you are right, it completely makes sense.. silicone properties are incomperable with the tape..
I am now in phase of designing my first speakers. If I go with port, I will try your tip!
@@AudioJudgementNP-1 is much better for a sealed bond.
Hi, I have a question, how thick should the mdf boards be for the box
Depends on the woofer’s size, I usually go 5/8” to 3/4”
@@criven3128 thanks for advice
So, birch or MDF?
mdf w/birch vineer. or 5-6 IKEA Lack end tables/book shelves in bitch finish...cut as needed.
@K03sport thanks =)
Hello!
are these types of advice in your courses?
and i have another question
Do your courses have subtitles in Spanish?
Greetings from Colombia!
Hello! There are building tips in the courses but not exactly these ones. And, unfortunately, there are no Spanish subtitles
Hi.i have a pioneer ts-w257d2 10inch subwoofer. Can you give me ported box measurements for best performance for my room
Look up Bass Box Pro.
If building vocal pa cabs, wedges, or bass/ guitar driver cabs, ALWAYS USE SCREWS!!!! These are not sitting in a room for 5-10yrs, they are heavy duty cabs. 12mm+ mdf glued, braced and glued, handles can be added as made, or a long oval if its not sealed. Corner cover bits and carpet keeps them flash, or just spray your cabs matt blck, (after sanding corners back a bit)
Then get the guy that drew that sicklogo with a skull and wings and inverted crosses that nobody has bn able to work out yet, and Varg's yer uncle.
Also these may need to be wired using 1/4" plugs like guitar leads or balanced canon plugs. Just make sure you test on a large amp, this avoids overload clipping, and as long as before distortion you later get a call from noise control, the 'annoy shitty snob neighbours' circuit is funcioning optimally
Check those aluminum foot plate on the circular saws....
Great vid buddy. I’ll give you a tip if you or your viewers watching didn’t know. I hope your wearing a good quality Dust particle mask. That MDF is some seriously nasty stuff. Don’t take this as a joke please. Regards Mario 🇦🇺
I have been taking this a bit more seriously. Got a 3M mask and I try to wear it always while in the workshop, regardless if I cut something or not. Thought about fancy dust extraction, but a good mask is cheaper and more effective if wore properly,
I've blown boxes apart that have been screwed together and fiberglassed😂😂😂 I would never trust a box that was just glue
Cool
👍
Binding posts should never be out of steel. Copper or brass.
A tip, don't use screws, high end enclosure don't use screws.
Yard sales and estate sales are great places to buy inexpensive used tools like routers and table saws.
😀
Tip #3...........Screws aren't mandatory............ but I see at 4:46 in your video that you have many screws in your cabinet construction. LOL. Come on! Which one is it? Screws or no screws?!
You can do whatever you want. There is no right or wrong. If you don’t have (enough) clamps you can use screws to fix the panels and finish the box. Sometimes its easier this way. It’s not for structural advantage. Some people say that boxes without screws are weak, which is not true.
Sorry I not interest your video...
🙏🙏🙏🙏
This guy really doesn't know anything 😂 yea you can do it without screws but that will be low quality box always use some kind of fasteners
just a suggestion...sincerely i'm not being mean. but the phony accent could only decrease the view count. as it right off the bat gives the video the theme or artificial. you may not care of what the view count is and i understand....my b....just a suggestion.....cheers
Is it fake?
Dude. Can you not write a sentence without three periods in a row? You may be trying to be dramatic but you instead come across as pretentious. Just use a single fullstop
@@IcchiNutz I should have known better: Proverbs 9:7-8
(7 Whoever corrects a mocker invites insults;
whoever rebukes the wicked incurs abuse.
8 Do not rebuke mockers or they will hate you;
rebuke the wise and they will love you. ) I meant no harm. It's your video not mine. Toodles
Did you just try to tell someone to lose their accent? Bruh
@@menono3420yo that’s crazy