Some Monster truck pilots mange to do a stunt like that, on the side of the tires and get up on all 4s...some, a few, with a lot of luck ^_^ But they do manage
Many tractors in Farm Sim games can do the same trick. I did so numerous times in FS19 when the front loader was too high or the tractor couldn't handle the speed and toppled.
Problem with BeamMP is that it doesn't really simulate the weight difference between player vehicles that well, making it hard for a beast like the Stambecco to even knock an I-Series/Covet out of the way.
Also it turns out this isn't actually so big a vehicle. There's modern hatchbacks that are about as long and wide as the 4x4 (and SUVs that are as tall), and the 6x6 is more like the length of a decent estate car. Its a modest sized van on stilts and with AWD really. So the weight might not actually be that much...
@@tahrey The 6x6 rally version weighs 5700 pounds/2600 kilograms, compared to the base D series at 4500 pounds/2060 kilograms while the fire rescue 6x6 weighs 6700 pounds/3045 kilograms, for it's size it is very dense while being quite small as you said. Strange proportions.
alex trying to shift using the clutch on a separate button wihtout the clutch assistant is quite helpful as you can shift really quickly, hope that helps. Good video, especially officer laddo's antics and the recovery from the side lmao
Here's a perspective from a professional truck driver. You actually want weight on the snow and ice, it gives you more grip on the rear wheels (which are your drive wheels.) I feel much safer driving up a mountain fully loaded in the winter than empty.
@@polygondwanaland8390 All of the old maps are still out there, and the newer "homage" type track that Alex tried out some months ago has been extended and fleshed out since, seen other YTers do survival races around it. It just depends on how much visual glitching you can deal with. Wish they'd put some kind of compatibility mode in the game where terrain files can be tagged with an intended version number and the graphics engine will be adapted to prevent/reduce the breakage.
I'm thinking that the manual clutch key / button would be helpful in these kinds of situations. You don't have to be in full unassisted manual mode to use it, it overrides the clutch in assisted mode (and maybe even arcade but I'm not exactly able to check on the fly!). Gives you the ability to pre-rev without being in neutral, and blip the throttle between gears (or briefly when bogged down) then ride/dump the clutch once the cogs are engaged instead of having to deal with the usual Beam rev-matching (which might actually be the reason for the slow shifting with that thing's heavy flywheel). I've found it can save from having to waste time on downshifts when you're just that bit marginal for getting boost or otherwise hooking up in the powerband in something race-tuned or otherwise has a narrow power band as compared to the gear ratio gaps. ISTR that it helps with spamming the gears / block shifting as it gets rid of some of that inter-gear delay, particularly in/out of neutral when changing direction, and you can keep the throttle pegged to avoid it bogging down. Also the Stambecco turbo diesel is just bad, it makes me question why some vehicles have such locked down configs as it would probably have been better to have a turbo petrol and a naturally aspirated diesel instead. Or at least a milder amount of boost. It can't really make use of the top end power and lacks the hefty low-midrange torque that's the usual TD advantage. And the rally/race config just makes it worse as the price for high peak boost is having negative boost at low revs and not really spooling until it's above 2500. It does have alternate diff ratios available at least, and even multiple different transfer box configs that could be useful for making better use of the power vs the speeds you're getting up to. No point having the ability to hit 80 if you're spending most of the time below 60mph, like. And you could then start in 2nd and run it like a closer ratio 4-speed. Plus have the low range for slowly crawling up snowy inclines that the others can't even think of tackling (the narrowest transfer box settings mean you can still make maybe 30mph without having to switch back into high).
Even without intervention I doubt this thing could even make it up the hill. You can't shift down the gears fast enough to keep in the power band once it slows
It's kinda painful to listen to Alex explaining that "you have to bounce it off the limiter" when in practice you have to do exactly opposite thing. If you don't change the gear before ~4k rpm, transmission gives up and locks you for ~1s in neutral - sth we see way too often in this video.
Not experienced anything like that in Beam before, not really sure what you're trying to say. The engine does have a lot of inertia so the revs fall off slowly, and the usual Beam default for "realistic" manual gearbox is assisted mode where it always, always rev matches, with closed throttle, even if that's a bad idea and you wouldn't do it IRL. So if you're upshifting with a heavy flywheel, narrow power band, old skool high boost / slow spool turbo, wide ratio gearbox, and a vehicle that loses speed rapidly due to aero drag / rolling resistance / climbing a hill / snow, you're a bit screwed because the rpm point the game's aiming for is continually falling and it takes forever for the engine to slow enough, by which point you're out of the NA powerband and the turbo has also despooled... What you'd do in reality is jam it into gear as quickly as possible (there's a good chance that an IRL Stambecco would either have synchro, or have a clutch brake that can be used by pushing the pedal all the way, when for normal shifts you'd only go about 3/4 of the travel, which helps get the gears into sync if you don't have synchromesh), releasing the throttle for only a very brief period if at all, then ride or drop the clutch with the throttle pinned so the engine is still revving, turbo still spooled, and still making decent power. And on downshifts you'd do similar but with blipping the throttle deliberately, maybe with a bit of double declutch. It essentially seems to treat every manual as if it's a crash box, when that's very much unnecessary. It makes for a very smooth drive if you do that in a real car when just toodling around of course, and it's easier on the mechanical parts especially synchros and clutch, but if you're racing or in an escape survival situation like this you're not going to give a crap about that. Crunching the gears and having the vehicle lurch a bit, or lose energy into heating up the friction disc whilst riding it, is of little concern so long as you can get moving quickly. Plus it's not like you're going to need it to still work afterwards... As I mentioned in my own comment a bit earlier, Beam does have multiple options to get around that. There's unassisted manual mode, but that would be an absolute pain on controller or keyboard, it's more for full 3-pedal simrig setups. But there's a clutch override key that's part of the default bindings (left shift) which can be very useful to let the engine spin and sidestep the enforced revmatching, and if you're canny with it you can speed up your shifts quite a bit, as well as launch more forcefully from a standstill instead of having to deal with the somewhat torque-converter-like low-rev slogging off the line (or when rapidly going 1st to Reverse to 1st to Reverse...). Honestly though I'm kind of surprised the rally version doesn't have a closer ratio box to help adapt to the engine characteristics a bit more... that would have made more sense. Possibly even a 6-speed, though just having a tighter overall range probably wouldn't have been too bad (the race engine has a higher rpm limit than standard and you're not going to be as bothered about keeping it up near the redline a lot of the time, vs how things might be if you're driving 200 miles down the motorway), especially as all versions have a dual-range transfer box which mitigates any issues from a slightly long 1st.
In fact having messed around a little since (badly as I was doing it at the end of a long day of dealing with Christmas stuff and kept dozing off), it seems there are different ratios for petrol and diesel... And it's really quite annoying that the gearboxes can't be mixed and matched when with a real vehicle you more than likely could have retrofit either engine to either box, at least with some mind paid to making sure the turbo diesel won't over torque the petrol box (something beam doesn't simulate anyway beyond some limited effect on clutch heating, so eh... Otherwise putting turbos on engines in general or even doing NA tuning that uses heavier duty blocks could cause transmission damage). Doubly so because they feel like they're the wrong way round. Like the relatively peaky diesel engine's box has wider ratios, particularly between 1st and 2nd, vs the flatter curved petrol drivetrain. Mooching around with even the base petrol engine, the gears feel too close together and you may as well skip either 1st or 2nd altogether unless you're really challenging it, possibly whilst down into low range. The diesel box would still work fine. But with the diesel engine it's too wide, worst of all in those exact situations as demonstrated, and the petrol box would work much better, especially if using the default automatic clutch behaviour instead of overriding it. I might actually have a go at doing some low grade mods and seeing if simply adding the alternate ratio set to each engine's config makes one or both of them more driveable.
Maybe like SpinTires/Mud Runner you just need weight on the back two axels to get that rear traction to climb that hill. Granted extra weight means losing speed but it also means more mass when you break check.
My previous experience driving this vehicle, though not the fastest, it's probably the most durable in taking a beating and with that in mind watching the struggle was rather painful.
*"Crown Vics are the best vehicles for any conditions"* This comment was made by a patriot who loves their country and dance naked on the pickup truck during 4th of July while shooting in the air, accidentally shooting down an Eagle.
While the others stop the beast where good for being action packed similar to gone in 60 seconds and similar car chase movies , this one is good for being more comedic ala blues brothers and the like. Also don't eat a Longbow, its bad for your health.
I think the problem with the gearbox is you need some practice with it. I feel like you're shifting too soon. You gotta keep it revving higher to keep the turbo spooled and the gears are short so you can run through them quickly. It was just a frustrating option for this challenge but you also weren't using it optimally.
To be honest, that's clearly a Unimog, and from what I have heard from the mass majority of the few who actually have owned or at least driven them a decent amount, you have described how they are to drive to a absolute T. Only the dedicated diehards of Unimogs are the ones who themselves feel they're actually fantastic fun to drive, and it is simply that the others haven't taken the time to learn the tricks of how to do so properly.
28:30 if im not mistaken, if u wouldve made it up it would have been a brilliant plan because i think thats a pretty hard rock/offroad trail, no shot anything but that truck wouldve made it past that
Messing around with it so far I don't really find the base engine to be ever so much less driveable. The extra power is really only useful for sustained high speed or dragging huge loads up a long steep hill... but you pay for it in overall flexibility. Wouldn't be surprised to find the lower tune ones have more low end torque.
@@DigitalJedi sadly not, that's kind of the problem. If you pull up the engine curve ui app, it doesn't look so great. It's more than the standard one, sure, but not masses, and it doesn't come in until somewhat higher revs... It's not a low rpm rock crawling lugger. Even though the NA sub lines suggest it would otherwise be such and it just needs a better turbo to help with that. But we are dealing with late 70s tech on that front...
@@tahrey I was thinking of the wheel torque given 1st low tops out around 9mph on some massive tires, but yeah, the engine itself feels like an ancient big block.
So having messed around a bit in beam to see what's going on with the laggy drivetrain, basically what I've found is... You're going for too much power. The race configs really are made for straight line top speed without much consideration of what happens at low speed after a full send clutch drop start, and don't seem to even alter the default clutch engagement rpm (which is pretty low for the regular engines). Given that the stage 2 blocks and particularly the stage 2 turbo seriously harm the low end torque in exchange for maximum power at the top end, it's a recipe for pain in a situation like this. The gears just can't shift fast enough, whilst the falling rpm chases the falling wheel speed to try and get a smooth shift, to put you back on the power at the far end. Additionally the gear ratios are lightly cursed, but that's a secondary concern. What I found worked better was a milder tune up - stage 1 block and turbo, or stage 2 block with regular turbo - or in fact either stage with the petrol engine. All of them are plenty powerful enough vs the standard tune to light up the tyres and give you a chance of getting away (essentially, the handling becomes the limiting factor), but retain enough low end torque that you can actually move after an upshift. BUT an essential part of it is also raising the rpm limit. The diesel stage 2 block can handle 5750rpm without exploding, and the petrol one can hit 6450 (you might want to go a little more conservative to avoid bending valves downhill, as any higher at all is "over rev risk"). The actual peak power is somewhat below that (about 5200 for the petrol i think), so you'll want to short shift somewhere in the mid to high 5s on the flat, or lower still for the diesel... But what it does is let you wring it out a lot further before upshifting when going up a steep hill, through deep snow, a pile of chaser cars etc, so when it does go into gear you're still at decent revs (essentially you need to stay over 3000 and certainly 2500), and also raise the limit of where you can downshift, which is something that can really get in the way when spamming down the gears (particularly forwards to reverse) if the wheels aren't quite going slowly enough. Also, whilst making use of that race engine feature, check on the differential ratios, AND the transfer box ratios. A decent combo for the petrol I found was customising the diffs to about 2.15 and making sure the transfer box was the 0.88/1.69 type. Then you have a low range which gives you speeds in each gear (at the higher rpm) maybe 10-20% less than the default option, better for ploughing on through whilst still topping out at almost 70, and a high range that's still usable at low speed on the flat but can take you to over 110 with enough of a run up. For the diesel, either of the standard options (2.81 or 2.85) seemed to be fine with that same transfer box, preferably running in low range as before. Reduce the weight as much as possible (I even went with a four wheel chassis, but in hindsight that was a bad idea due to the rear wheels pinging off so easily), throw on the "mud terrain" tyres (what works for mud tends to work for snow, but there's little that helps with ice), and you've got a pretty capable battle wagon. I hooned it around the snowy Italy map and a couple others with steep hills and the only problem I really met was running out of traction on really steep hills (like even the brakes wouldn't hold it after the drive was lost) and then doing a lazy backflip... Sometimes there wouldn't be quite enough starting power even in low first using the game's default clutch behaviour (it's not as bad with the diesel as the petrol, but neither engine is great when it tries for full engagement at like 1100rpm), but a quick bit of pre rev in neutral then dropping in, or even just holding brake and throttle for a second before releasing the brake was plenty enough to give it the vital nudge. I thought I was probably going to have to mod the stambecco to fix the gear ratios, but all of the above was achieved using the standard stuff available through the config menu, so it's entirely legal for these kinds of challenges under what seem to be the usual FR rules.
Correction: actually the petrol ratios ended up giving almost the exact same max speeds as the default set just at higher rpms, maybe half an mph lower. But I started out with higher ratios and lower speeds which seemed acceptable on the flat test track i used at first, then realised they needed to be lengthened out a bit when moving to the hilly stuff. It just couldn't pull to the redline in 5th that much as the power falls off hard, so needed the headroom just to have a fighting chance of hitting 55 to 60 with reasonable frequency. Also I realise now that the 6x6 probably would have given better climbing traction and protection against somersaults as well as making one lost wheel less of a problem... Duh. The above tunes might need to be made a little shorter geared in that case as the drivetrain is not particularly efficient, you can tell its a bit faster in 2wd vs 4, and having 50% more diff and portal hub gears will only exacerbate the issue.
![ปฏิเสธไม่ไหว (Crush on you) - LIPTA feat. No One Else [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/NBw1jF342vw/mqdefault.jpg)
Officer Laddo's arrival was so elegant and glorious.
A true Falrace Police Department officer.
His perspective on it is pretty good too ;)
Yes
we really need a new driven till destruction with the new vehicles
Or just any BeamNG time trial series, like in the good ol' days.
This
In the snow
I'm pretty sure the stembecco would only die when it runs out of fuel.. even without the oil pan it's hard to kill.
The oil pan damage makes it not very exciting now, sadly
Well, i have never ever seen a truck spin like that to rise itself. Well done and well played!
Some Monster truck pilots mange to do a stunt like that, on the side of the tires and get up on all 4s...some, a few, with a lot of luck ^_^
But they do manage
Many tractors in Farm Sim games can do the same trick.
I did so numerous times in FS19 when the front loader was too high or the tractor couldn't handle the speed and toppled.
Problem with BeamMP is that it doesn't really simulate the weight difference between player vehicles that well, making it hard for a beast like the Stambecco to even knock an I-Series/Covet out of the way.
I think it was more because of the lack of grip, if he had the regular amount of traction or different tires there would have been more shoving.
@@ATruckCampbell It'd be worth trying a bit of Beam Science to find out what happens. Shunt the biggest H-series into a Pigeon or whatever.
Also it turns out this isn't actually so big a vehicle. There's modern hatchbacks that are about as long and wide as the 4x4 (and SUVs that are as tall), and the 6x6 is more like the length of a decent estate car. Its a modest sized van on stilts and with AWD really. So the weight might not actually be that much...
@@tahrey The 6x6 rally version weighs 5700 pounds/2600 kilograms, compared to the base D series at 4500 pounds/2060 kilograms while the fire rescue 6x6 weighs 6700 pounds/3045 kilograms, for it's size it is very dense while being quite small as you said. Strange proportions.
@@ATruckCampbell crikey. It should be a tank by rights then...
Officer laddo's entrance at 28:25, that is how a real man enters the room.
7:18 - This is genuinely one of the most magical moments in all of FailRace history. What a wonderful present for the season. c:
Same goes for 23:23
@@pugzilla330 all the way to 24:33
It's either this or the BeamNG bulldog session with the infamous ricochet cannonball
23:24 was an excellent, textbook failrace moment 👏🏻🤣
"like a glove" xD
That almost end was fitting for first round, brilliant recovery 😆
Oh come on! Missed opportunity here!
"Hellooo, and welcome... to the SNOW!"
"It looks like I've damaged Amy's car in the way I wanted to." ... Looks to me like you've just made her mad. Lol
i enjoyed dancing on ice
7:18 imagine how the crew reacted to this lol.
Wow, I never knew vehicles could break dance like that.
Edit: Also GTA Online has snow right now. I would love to see this in GTA.
It might be a xmas survive the hunt and probably in snow. Hope so anyway
@@JoriDiculous I'm hoping for that too.
That flip recovery was the most beautiful thing I've ever seen on this channel 🤩
Fun to watch a slightly more balanced version of this series!
I got so happy when i saw failrace upload a beamng video
They are the best.
Excellent snow driving... especially the little dance to get up and drive away! ;)
Subscribed.
🚚
Stop the beast aka *Vehicle Manslaughter, the series*
alex trying to shift using the clutch on a separate button wihtout the clutch assistant is quite helpful as you can shift really quickly, hope that helps. Good video, especially officer laddo's antics and the recovery from the side lmao
Here's a perspective from a professional truck driver. You actually want weight on the snow and ice, it gives you more grip on the rear wheels (which are your drive wheels.) I feel much safer driving up a mountain fully loaded in the winter than empty.
I watched this while eating a bowl of maple brown sugar oatmeal with brownie chunks mixed in, which seemed appropriate for a winter-themed video.
Merry Christmas Alex, Hope you and your family have a good holiday.
Its a match made in heaven, the more updates Beam gets and the more Failrace do vids in it
Your first stop the beast got me hooked on this channel
we need to see this truck around some of the old driven till destruction circuits because its a beast damn
I've still got the old Endurodrome map on Beam but some of the textures are broken
@@polygondwanaland8390 yeah same the jumps all no texture lol
@@polygondwanaland8390 All of the old maps are still out there, and the newer "homage" type track that Alex tried out some months ago has been extended and fleshed out since, seen other YTers do survival races around it. It just depends on how much visual glitching you can deal with. Wish they'd put some kind of compatibility mode in the game where terrain files can be tagged with an intended version number and the graphics engine will be adapted to prevent/reduce the breakage.
Love the great thumbnail of a car I definitely didn't use xD
Great video! Love seeing a BeamMP vid in snowy conditions. Credit to the hunters/pursuers, who put up a fantastic effort in this one.
this was great! More please! :D
oh and Wreckfest in the snow?
Watching your truck perform ballet in the first attempt was glorious.
Hellooo and welcome to de show!!!
I love hearing this😀😃😃👏👍👍
Every time you got stuck in the woods, I wanted to see you hit the winch button. Then I remembered you are playing BeamNG and not Snow Runner.
These are always awesome.
Top points to Laddo for that arrival at the intersection.
New update is crazy ,videos are great by the way , the stambecco is a fricking beast it cannot be destroyed.
Crashwelded is a great word to describe what tends to happen in BeamNG.
That hill on the end, from what i can see there was no lag pulling down the hill, that was loss of traction, still a good video.
this is better then the forza
I'm thinking that the manual clutch key / button would be helpful in these kinds of situations. You don't have to be in full unassisted manual mode to use it, it overrides the clutch in assisted mode (and maybe even arcade but I'm not exactly able to check on the fly!).
Gives you the ability to pre-rev without being in neutral, and blip the throttle between gears (or briefly when bogged down) then ride/dump the clutch once the cogs are engaged instead of having to deal with the usual Beam rev-matching (which might actually be the reason for the slow shifting with that thing's heavy flywheel). I've found it can save from having to waste time on downshifts when you're just that bit marginal for getting boost or otherwise hooking up in the powerband in something race-tuned or otherwise has a narrow power band as compared to the gear ratio gaps.
ISTR that it helps with spamming the gears / block shifting as it gets rid of some of that inter-gear delay, particularly in/out of neutral when changing direction, and you can keep the throttle pegged to avoid it bogging down.
Also the Stambecco turbo diesel is just bad, it makes me question why some vehicles have such locked down configs as it would probably have been better to have a turbo petrol and a naturally aspirated diesel instead. Or at least a milder amount of boost. It can't really make use of the top end power and lacks the hefty low-midrange torque that's the usual TD advantage. And the rally/race config just makes it worse as the price for high peak boost is having negative boost at low revs and not really spooling until it's above 2500.
It does have alternate diff ratios available at least, and even multiple different transfer box configs that could be useful for making better use of the power vs the speeds you're getting up to. No point having the ability to hit 80 if you're spending most of the time below 60mph, like. And you could then start in 2nd and run it like a closer ratio 4-speed. Plus have the low range for slowly crawling up snowy inclines that the others can't even think of tackling (the narrowest transfer box settings mean you can still make maybe 30mph without having to switch back into high).
Officer laddo top gear'd it with that beautiful entry
Loved the video! A lot of classic failrace moments here!
The truck has a deflation mechanism for the tyres...could have tries using that
Depends on which config it is, but I guess it would be appropriate to the rally truck...
@@tahrey if they do that again it would make a good race as they wouldn't be expecting it
The goofy slippery antics of this episode made me laugh more than any other episode I think 🤣
"I am an idiot" - FailRace quote of the year
this was super entertaining
I would recommend getting rid of clutch assistant and throttle assistant, you can change gears so much faster
Love this series
Even without intervention I doubt this thing could even make it up the hill. You can't shift down the gears fast enough to keep in the power band once it slows
Love it! It always looks like you all have fun in this game.
It's your sporting attitude that male you so much fun.
Suggestion: Bring back your "race down the mountain" series but no one has front brakes. Best of 3 turns
The helicopter recovery deserves a like.
I really want to see Laddo's perspective.
*gets wedged on a cliff and pays absolutely no attention to Laddo falling out of the sky at Mach 2*
It's kinda painful to listen to Alex explaining that "you have to bounce it off the limiter" when in practice you have to do exactly opposite thing. If you don't change the gear before ~4k rpm, transmission gives up and locks you for ~1s in neutral - sth we see way too often in this video.
I dont think thats true, but either way hes trying to shift too much
Not experienced anything like that in Beam before, not really sure what you're trying to say. The engine does have a lot of inertia so the revs fall off slowly, and the usual Beam default for "realistic" manual gearbox is assisted mode where it always, always rev matches, with closed throttle, even if that's a bad idea and you wouldn't do it IRL. So if you're upshifting with a heavy flywheel, narrow power band, old skool high boost / slow spool turbo, wide ratio gearbox, and a vehicle that loses speed rapidly due to aero drag / rolling resistance / climbing a hill / snow, you're a bit screwed because the rpm point the game's aiming for is continually falling and it takes forever for the engine to slow enough, by which point you're out of the NA powerband and the turbo has also despooled...
What you'd do in reality is jam it into gear as quickly as possible (there's a good chance that an IRL Stambecco would either have synchro, or have a clutch brake that can be used by pushing the pedal all the way, when for normal shifts you'd only go about 3/4 of the travel, which helps get the gears into sync if you don't have synchromesh), releasing the throttle for only a very brief period if at all, then ride or drop the clutch with the throttle pinned so the engine is still revving, turbo still spooled, and still making decent power. And on downshifts you'd do similar but with blipping the throttle deliberately, maybe with a bit of double declutch.
It essentially seems to treat every manual as if it's a crash box, when that's very much unnecessary. It makes for a very smooth drive if you do that in a real car when just toodling around of course, and it's easier on the mechanical parts especially synchros and clutch, but if you're racing or in an escape survival situation like this you're not going to give a crap about that. Crunching the gears and having the vehicle lurch a bit, or lose energy into heating up the friction disc whilst riding it, is of little concern so long as you can get moving quickly. Plus it's not like you're going to need it to still work afterwards...
As I mentioned in my own comment a bit earlier, Beam does have multiple options to get around that. There's unassisted manual mode, but that would be an absolute pain on controller or keyboard, it's more for full 3-pedal simrig setups. But there's a clutch override key that's part of the default bindings (left shift) which can be very useful to let the engine spin and sidestep the enforced revmatching, and if you're canny with it you can speed up your shifts quite a bit, as well as launch more forcefully from a standstill instead of having to deal with the somewhat torque-converter-like low-rev slogging off the line (or when rapidly going 1st to Reverse to 1st to Reverse...).
Honestly though I'm kind of surprised the rally version doesn't have a closer ratio box to help adapt to the engine characteristics a bit more... that would have made more sense. Possibly even a 6-speed, though just having a tighter overall range probably wouldn't have been too bad (the race engine has a higher rpm limit than standard and you're not going to be as bothered about keeping it up near the redline a lot of the time, vs how things might be if you're driving 200 miles down the motorway), especially as all versions have a dual-range transfer box which mitigates any issues from a slightly long 1st.
In fact having messed around a little since (badly as I was doing it at the end of a long day of dealing with Christmas stuff and kept dozing off), it seems there are different ratios for petrol and diesel... And it's really quite annoying that the gearboxes can't be mixed and matched when with a real vehicle you more than likely could have retrofit either engine to either box, at least with some mind paid to making sure the turbo diesel won't over torque the petrol box (something beam doesn't simulate anyway beyond some limited effect on clutch heating, so eh... Otherwise putting turbos on engines in general or even doing NA tuning that uses heavier duty blocks could cause transmission damage).
Doubly so because they feel like they're the wrong way round. Like the relatively peaky diesel engine's box has wider ratios, particularly between 1st and 2nd, vs the flatter curved petrol drivetrain. Mooching around with even the base petrol engine, the gears feel too close together and you may as well skip either 1st or 2nd altogether unless you're really challenging it, possibly whilst down into low range. The diesel box would still work fine. But with the diesel engine it's too wide, worst of all in those exact situations as demonstrated, and the petrol box would work much better, especially if using the default automatic clutch behaviour instead of overriding it.
I might actually have a go at doing some low grade mods and seeing if simply adding the alternate ratio set to each engine's config makes one or both of them more driveable.
They are by far the best off road cars in the snow on steep banks 🤯
A hunters perspective for this would be excellent
There is something called "low range" which is used to drive up hills.
We need stop the beast discussion. 😉
Round 2 you FINALLY have both diffs locked. Noticeably better handling.
Laddo definitely reset after that big crash in the last chase. There's no way the Covet survived that.
You ever seen the covet in driven till destruction. It’s really tough.
Technically he did that all by himself, which fair enough means he could reset from it lol
Once you learn how to use the transmission, it is a great vehicle and tougher than nails. I hope you use it in more beam videos.
My thought was Alex and speedbeast have swapped places and everyone tries to stop speedbeast
please do this but with pigeons and trucks
Enjoyed the car 🌧
Big truck, microscopic engine. If you got the Cummins diesel mod for that thing you'd be unstoppable.
The truck actually goes "nom"
love the expiremental stuff
my man, when you goin up hill in an offroad car, put it in low range
Snow falls...hilarity ensues.
7:20 YOU SPIN ME RIGHT ROUND BABY RIGHT ROUND.
the most valuable lesson I learned while watching this was don't eat Longbow ('s car)
7:18 break dancing truck time.
24:15 this sentence without context is funny.
If you use the manual clutch option you can shift gears way faster
I was reminded of that old .gif of Homer Simpson running around in a circle on the floor.
7:16 i need to hear their party chat if they are in one. I need to hear it.
Nice video!
Maybe like SpinTires/Mud Runner you just need weight on the back two axels to get that rear traction to climb that hill. Granted extra weight means losing speed but it also means more mass when you break check.
officer laddo is the goat frrrrrr
6:30 turned into a Nat Geo documentary for a second there
This truck was a pretty big disappointment offroad.
My previous experience driving this vehicle, though not the fastest, it's probably the most durable in taking a beating and with that in mind watching the struggle was rather painful.
Just like the real world, Volvos and Crown Vics are the best vehicles for any conditions.
*"Crown Vics are the best vehicles for any conditions"*
This comment was made by a patriot who loves their country and dance naked on the pickup truck during 4th of July while shooting in the air, accidentally shooting down an Eagle.
The Barstow wasn't bad, but it kept overheating at the slightest suggestion of effort xD
@@automation7295 yes Americans love Volvos don’t they? Pity I’m not an American. Nice try though.
While the others stop the beast where good for being action packed similar to gone in 60 seconds and similar car chase movies , this one is good for being more comedic ala blues brothers and the like.
Also don't eat a Longbow, its bad for your health.
It is >:)
The beginning kinda reminds me of stampy longhead
Raining cars at the end XD
The 2nd attempt reminds me of that one STH where he spent the entire time in the water lmfao
I think the problem with the gearbox is you need some practice with it. I feel like you're shifting too soon. You gotta keep it revving higher to keep the turbo spooled and the gears are short so you can run through them quickly. It was just a frustrating option for this challenge but you also weren't using it optimally.
Filman87 made a mod for this that adds an engine from the t-series
Do another video using this truck but not in the snow maybe higher chance if survival for both side the hunters also
Failrace made a mistake with lightening the truck. More weight would do better in snow then less weight.
Otherwise it was just sooooo slow though. It just couldn't get away. Keep in mind, I was using the Barstow with the base I6 to start lol
As the team upgrades to faster cars you should be aloud to make upgrades/modifications to your vehicle.
To be honest, that's clearly a Unimog, and from what I have heard from the mass majority of the few who actually have owned or at least driven them a decent amount, you have described how they are to drive to a absolute T. Only the dedicated diehards of Unimogs are the ones who themselves feel they're actually fantastic fun to drive, and it is simply that the others haven't taken the time to learn the tricks of how to do so properly.
Woah! We got some 4k action going on!!!
28:30 if im not mistaken, if u wouldve made it up it would have been a brilliant plan because i think thats a pretty hard rock/offroad trail, no shot anything but that truck wouldve made it past that
Basically any going straight is not going to help you against the others when traction is your only advantage.
Hear me out - hunt the survivors... in SNOWRUNNER
Fun fact: the rally spec of the stembecco only has 150Hp.
Messing around with it so far I don't really find the base engine to be ever so much less driveable. The extra power is really only useful for sustained high speed or dragging huge loads up a long steep hill... but you pay for it in overall flexibility. Wouldn't be surprised to find the lower tune ones have more low end torque.
t has 150hp but the torque spec should just be "yes."
@@DigitalJedi sadly not, that's kind of the problem. If you pull up the engine curve ui app, it doesn't look so great. It's more than the standard one, sure, but not masses, and it doesn't come in until somewhat higher revs... It's not a low rpm rock crawling lugger. Even though the NA sub lines suggest it would otherwise be such and it just needs a better turbo to help with that. But we are dealing with late 70s tech on that front...
@@tahrey I was thinking of the wheel torque given 1st low tops out around 9mph on some massive tires, but yeah, the engine itself feels like an ancient big block.
@@DigitalJedi that's gearing for you...
"Impega nicked me wheel!!!!"
So having messed around a bit in beam to see what's going on with the laggy drivetrain, basically what I've found is... You're going for too much power.
The race configs really are made for straight line top speed without much consideration of what happens at low speed after a full send clutch drop start, and don't seem to even alter the default clutch engagement rpm (which is pretty low for the regular engines). Given that the stage 2 blocks and particularly the stage 2 turbo seriously harm the low end torque in exchange for maximum power at the top end, it's a recipe for pain in a situation like this. The gears just can't shift fast enough, whilst the falling rpm chases the falling wheel speed to try and get a smooth shift, to put you back on the power at the far end.
Additionally the gear ratios are lightly cursed, but that's a secondary concern.
What I found worked better was a milder tune up - stage 1 block and turbo, or stage 2 block with regular turbo - or in fact either stage with the petrol engine. All of them are plenty powerful enough vs the standard tune to light up the tyres and give you a chance of getting away (essentially, the handling becomes the limiting factor), but retain enough low end torque that you can actually move after an upshift.
BUT an essential part of it is also raising the rpm limit. The diesel stage 2 block can handle 5750rpm without exploding, and the petrol one can hit 6450 (you might want to go a little more conservative to avoid bending valves downhill, as any higher at all is "over rev risk"). The actual peak power is somewhat below that (about 5200 for the petrol i think), so you'll want to short shift somewhere in the mid to high 5s on the flat, or lower still for the diesel... But what it does is let you wring it out a lot further before upshifting when going up a steep hill, through deep snow, a pile of chaser cars etc, so when it does go into gear you're still at decent revs (essentially you need to stay over 3000 and certainly 2500), and also raise the limit of where you can downshift, which is something that can really get in the way when spamming down the gears (particularly forwards to reverse) if the wheels aren't quite going slowly enough.
Also, whilst making use of that race engine feature, check on the differential ratios, AND the transfer box ratios. A decent combo for the petrol I found was customising the diffs to about 2.15 and making sure the transfer box was the 0.88/1.69 type. Then you have a low range which gives you speeds in each gear (at the higher rpm) maybe 10-20% less than the default option, better for ploughing on through whilst still topping out at almost 70, and a high range that's still usable at low speed on the flat but can take you to over 110 with enough of a run up. For the diesel, either of the standard options (2.81 or 2.85) seemed to be fine with that same transfer box, preferably running in low range as before.
Reduce the weight as much as possible (I even went with a four wheel chassis, but in hindsight that was a bad idea due to the rear wheels pinging off so easily), throw on the "mud terrain" tyres (what works for mud tends to work for snow, but there's little that helps with ice), and you've got a pretty capable battle wagon. I hooned it around the snowy Italy map and a couple others with steep hills and the only problem I really met was running out of traction on really steep hills (like even the brakes wouldn't hold it after the drive was lost) and then doing a lazy backflip... Sometimes there wouldn't be quite enough starting power even in low first using the game's default clutch behaviour (it's not as bad with the diesel as the petrol, but neither engine is great when it tries for full engagement at like 1100rpm), but a quick bit of pre rev in neutral then dropping in, or even just holding brake and throttle for a second before releasing the brake was plenty enough to give it the vital nudge.
I thought I was probably going to have to mod the stambecco to fix the gear ratios, but all of the above was achieved using the standard stuff available through the config menu, so it's entirely legal for these kinds of challenges under what seem to be the usual FR rules.
Correction: actually the petrol ratios ended up giving almost the exact same max speeds as the default set just at higher rpms, maybe half an mph lower. But I started out with higher ratios and lower speeds which seemed acceptable on the flat test track i used at first, then realised they needed to be lengthened out a bit when moving to the hilly stuff. It just couldn't pull to the redline in 5th that much as the power falls off hard, so needed the headroom just to have a fighting chance of hitting 55 to 60 with reasonable frequency.
Also I realise now that the 6x6 probably would have given better climbing traction and protection against somersaults as well as making one lost wheel less of a problem... Duh. The above tunes might need to be made a little shorter geared in that case as the drivetrain is not particularly efficient, you can tell its a bit faster in 2wd vs 4, and having 50% more diff and portal hub gears will only exacerbate the issue.
What map is this ? Don't think I've stumbled across a snow map before ?
If you were playing without the snow you could have totally made it up the hill