Okay I'm going to say it ,I really do love you Man . You saved me so so much money. And now my 350 nightstand can go in my pickup truck and my Wife won't think I'm stupid and didn't know what the heck I'm doing . Thanks Man 😉
Great video. I’m installing a new melling oil pump on my 5.7 vortec and this answered my question about a gasket and the torque spec. Much appreciated.
Thanks for all the videos. I"m re-building a 98 Vortec 5.7 for my 68 C10 project and your vids have helped not only get things right, but saved money as well.
1 of 2 I have just watched your video and did as you said as far as changing my oil pump and screen in a 97' GMC C3500 5.7 vortex engine that was already installed in my van. Everything went smooth while doing it and finishing it up. I added 4 quarts of oil (15W-30) and 1 quart of oil to the filter and checked it. Fine, no problems.
Myvintageiron7512, Thanks for the video- very helpful. Get yourself a couple of 1"x1/4"x1/4" magnets from the BAY. Line those end-to-end in the bottom of the oil pan where the end of the pump would touch it. Install the pan flush to gasket. Remove pan, remove magnets. There is now a 1/4" gap. You heard it here first on Roller Derby.
Alan Tibbetts I have enjoyed your 383 stroker build series..very infomative. Was wondering if you would ever consider making a video about EXACTLY the way YOU assemble a SBC (not how to install crank, cam heads, etc) but a step by step on assembly. Example: when to put oil pan on, oil pump, heads, intake, timing chain assy, in other words all the simple things most motor heads take for granted. This is going to be my first build and I have some rather pricey parts and don't want to mess anything up along the (or have to go back and redo something because this was supposed to go on before that). Just a thought..again..thanks for your expertise. Look forward to the video.
Also awesome how you showed how to set depth on oil pickup. I wasn’t thinking and moved pickup on old pump and had it off and out of wack before I even realized I was supposed to make marks lol so thanks again.
I love your videos. Week of thanksgiving I'm planning to assemble my 383. Hopefully I've done my research and gathered the right parts. Thanks to your videos I have all the assistance I could need. Thanks again friend.
Very good job at explaining. Working on my neighborhoods truck. She its like 69. Almost never changed the oil. Smh. Truck would barely run. I had a hard just getting the oil pan out. 4x4. Thanks again brother mechanic!
Just want to say thank You ‼️‼️‼️ The info you provided answered all my questions Thanks. I'm replacing a rear Main in a Chev 350 I had dropped into a 80 TA . I'm a so called class C tech & this was a bit nerve racking to say the least.
+David Torres yes, it does thats the housing of the oil filter we are not able to get off. And my husband thinks that he could possibly tap it and move the bell housing a little out of the way, and hopefully we can get to the oil pump. Gonna have to finish it tomoro though.
When I set the oil pump pickup screen air gap between the screen and the pan I do it just like he does and then I run a little borescope camera in thru the drain plug hole and make sure the gap is 100% correct. The borescope camera I use cost about 30 bucks and I use it for all kinds of stuff.
How about a video on 'what gaskets need sealing and which do not". I've seen so many videos that say no goo on headgaskets, some say copper spray, some say no goo on waterpump gaskets, some say use goo. Also: what about the 'forgotten oil galley plug"? Will the machine shop take it out and not replace it when the block is hot tanked?
One of the best demonstrations I've seen. Do you recommend using RTV on the outer corners of that one piece pan gasket? How about on both sides of the chain cover, and where the seal mates to the cover? THANKS
A decent vid. Good move going with the steel sleeve drive shaft. You should probably tack weld the pickup, even on a stock POS. You never know what an engine may have to endure before it gets rebuilt. The next guy may trash it, but at least you'll know you did your job right, and the pickup's not to blame.
I noticed this is an 880 casting you are working on. I am using this same block to build a marine version of the engine to replace a Volvo Penta 5.7 with TBI and Vortec heads. Looking through some info I see possible 5.7 crankshafts as 14088526 and 14088535. Are these directly interchangeable? Been searching the web and can not find any info regarding that. Thx. Love your videos!
Tried 85 ft/lbs per Chevy Power and pulled the threads out so I drilled out the blind hole, tapped it through, then used an ARP stud and only 55 ft/lbs. That was over 3 years ago.
Really good video. ..you did not even get dirty. .now try doing the same procedure on a 96 gmc yukon 4x4 with the engine still in the truck and then condense the video into a 9min job...thank you.
It is my understanding they also make a blue rubber gasket like the one in this video for a two piece rear main seal motor. I was wondering if you had ever used them and what you thought about putting one on a 3970010 block which has a 2 piece rear main seal crank. Thanks in advance for your wisdom and assistance !!!!!!
I've been reassembling my 350 motor. I used the same steps to install the oil pump and pick up except I used the depth of the pan to set the position of the screen. I bench primed the pump, My question is now that it is installed I don't seem to get the flow thru the push rods when using a drill motor testing the pump drive. Would it help if I rotate the crank, or what might you suggest?
Is there anyway that melling intermediate shaft can be installed from the top under the distributor.... I think I forgot to put the plastic collar on when building my engine but I do have an after market melling shaft ... Kinda dont wanna drop the pan to change it
Hello..I have a Question...I have an 1988 GMC Suburban 5.7l...My Oil gauge isn't working.. ..Turns out I removed the Sending Unit above the Oil Filter housing ..Started the engine ...No oil was coming out ..??...is there a Tube or something that got disconnected in the Oil Pan...Thanxs Daren..
That was helpful tks,I'm wondering though,my application is a marine SBC since those motors run high RPM's is it a good idea to tack weld the oil pick up tube in place..tks again
Is there a check valve in that pump that doesn't allow pressure to bleed off? I have a 1998 5.7 Sometimes at start up I here a either a knock and or valve/lifter noise. Sometimes not. Has done this every since rebuild.
May I ask questions that circle around one issue please? Ever since I had my 89 Cheve Silverado 350 engine rebuilt about 10 months ago, my engine will often start with a knock. To me it has a strong resemblance of a rod bearing. it lasts for about a second or two and I notice it stops as soon as the oil pressure gauge on the dash starts to move toward positive pressure. I sense it may be getting worse but not convinced. Oil pressure is good. 60 psi cold, 12 - 20 warm at idle and in gear. The overhaul included boring cylinders, milling heads, grinding the crank, new pistons, rings, new main and rod bearings and a new oil pump.Is it possible the oil pump is causing the dry starts? I installed it with the screen as parallel to the block as possible, not 1/4 inch from pan as I found out should be not to long ago. Could this be the problem? My thoughts are to reposition the screen and I am wondering if it would it be okay to replace the rod bearings with new ones as a precaution before they start doing damage to the journals? Your video on installing the oil pump was very much appreciated. Thanks in advance for any help on the dry starts.
I just bought a 93 Silverado and it does the same exact thing. Cold start rattle, then quiets down once pressure is up. Maintains good oil pressure driving down the road. Once it comes to an idle is sounds like a light ticking noise, almost like small marbles rolling around. I can tell this motor isn't original based off the casting numbers and the fact that it's all painted. My guess is either a pump screen issue or a main bearing. I plan on looking at it closer this weekend.
i would imagine the compressed thickness of the gasket is between 1/4 and 3/8, would it be reasonable to do the same thing you did as far as putting the pan on to move the pickup, but without the gasket?
Hi. I have a 95 suburban 1500 4×4 with a 350 motor. Oil pressure very slow to come out. And the motor knocks until the oil pressure raises. Is there a way to check the oil pressure? Your advice will be appreciated .
In my Omega 350 .granmas car i inherited ..running still..had a clicking lifter on passenger side..let me to dissasemble and clean ever lifter..put ut back togeather ,started it.. clicking came back.humm then i started to notice no oil realy comeing up the tubes to the rockers😑so im guessing its only ran every week for 50 years maby it needs a oil pump. I just want to give my 16 year old dog a few last rides..any sugestions?
timmyboy836 1 second ago when preoiling the pump is making a fair bit of noise ....suggestions? noise sounds like it tranfers right into pan ( first build ) sorry bad punc first time
My 75 corvette l48 chewed up the nylon cam gear. I pulled the cover and see lots of missing plastic chunks are in my pan. A few weeks ago I noticed car would run a little hotter but it was summer heat. It threw the chain in my driveway when starting not running. Sgould i replace the oil pump and what else should I check adter installing the new melling double roller chain and gears?
Do they make a solid oil pan gasket like the one in this video for a two piece crank seal ? I would like to use one like this on my 3970010 block but I don't want one if they have a better chance to leak. Thanks, dt
I have a question about cam button when I disassembled the the engine “a 1976 gmc 350 4bolt main truck engine” well it didn’t have a cam button does it need one the engine was rebuilt by someone previously And this video was very helpful thank you
I just bought a 99 tahoe 5.7 vortech 250k had a misfire. Turns out bent exhaust valve I put new heads on and sealed it up. But now I seem to have low oil pressure.. I changes the oil and filter after.. but could the pickup tube be clogged now from being sloppy with block surface buffing?
Does the shaft that drives the pump have any sort of retainer on the top end? I'm asking because I might consider changing my oil pump with it in the truck. I know I can access the pump with it in the truck still.
After installation of the pump when installing the distributor. Will where the pump drive shaft sit mess with which tooth my gear on the distributor sits? I'm having issues getting my 85 iroc to properly sit on timing. Distributor dropped all the way, timing chain is on the correct tooth, and timing set it at 6° advanced, but still acts like it's out if time, so cant the oil pump driveshaft be sitting in the wrong position for my distributor to sit on the correct drive tooth?
question I have a high-volume oil pump I have great oil pressure at start when heats up dropping below 10 after running about an hour dropping to zero I put the oil pump on do you think the pickup screen has anything to do with that thank you
I was priming the oil pump with a prime tool and drill and it feels like a bump in one spot. to better explain it (i hope) at the end of a full turn the drill kind of has a jerk like feel or bump to it. i would think it should be smooth all the way around (360) any idea or seen any thing like it? bbc 454 just rebuilt the shaft is like the one you used in the vid the upgraded one. thx mb
Got an 88 350 tbi is it possible to change the oil pump with a cherry picker or floor Jack without removing the motor? I mean I realize I’ll have to drop muffler and loosen my motor mounts and probably front drive line as well but it’s a daily driver and really can’t afford to pull the block
Is there nothing that holds that oil pump drive shaft on cause it just falls off when the motor is upside down or won’t it come out when you pull the distributor
I jacked up my K5 Blazer under the oil pan to replace my motor mounts and dented the oil pan @ 2 inches. Do you think I should drop the oil pan and pound it out or you think I might be ok?
Thanks,I,am doing a fuel pump switch from 2wd to 4wd ,first time for me doing this.It,s a 4.3 vortec . I,ll switch oil pans as well. my question is oil pumps through with drill , does this indicate that I have a good pump and I should have have enough oil pressure. it,s a used pump, perhaps a new one is the only way to go ? Good informitive video.
I just rebuilt and installed SBC 350 in my Blazer, and oil pressure at startup is @ 50psi when it warms up oil pressure is @ 10psi. Is this normal for a 70's block ? It has 268xe cam, timing chain and hydraulic lifters, stock crank and 30 over Pistons. Oh yea and stock size Mahle oil pump.
Hay man on my 383 block the number one and four cylinder at the very top are a little dent or like a low spot were it was bored 30 over was left but the rest of the cylinders turned out great but the machinist said it was ok that it wont hurt anything !!! should I believe him !!!! first and the second ring might go over but the oil rings will clear this its like the size of a salt crystal..
You give great information and had a question that I've looked on utube for and nothing really solid....anyway my ??? On oil pressure 81 chevy 350 motor approx 35,000 been sitting for some time....starts up runs great minus tune up and Quadra junk carb but after warm up oil pressure goes to zero with Guage off block bypassing sending unit...it's gonna be an engine pull no pan access cross member.....what an I looking at? Bad oil pump or blocked spun bearing passages kinda confused the thinner the oil gets should flow better....my thought oil pump with posible crank shafts bearing damage.....if spun bearing plan on engine junk.....SUCKS just did major body repair, interior, brakes shocks dropped bank and hours and now this..DAM YOU MURPHY.....
I have a question for you I have a Vortec 4.3 liter and I was curious if this operation is basically the same? looks the same in the same area this is in my boat so I have to remove the full engine
Hi bud I recently finished building a 540 bbc I noticed the distributor was not sitting completely flush on manifold without gasket, engine is on a run test start , so I got the nylon washer spacers used the thick one , engine started no issues , oil pressure 50 psi, then it started leaking oil from the washer so I made some gaskets and put on either side of nylon washer , started it up and noticed no oil pressure and noise, so I pulled out dizzy and noticed drive shaft was not engaging , pulled out and just used one gasket , noise gone pressure back up 50psi but I noticed with measuring that drive shaft is only sliding in to dizzy shaft maybe a few mms It’s a dart big m block ,mellings standard pump and mellings bbc drive shat what are your thoughts on this please help you seem very knowledgeable I watch all you clips
just wanted to double check . You said you don't need the gasket for the pump and the torque for the bolt is 50 lbs. for my 350 chev engine. Great video !
I been building motors for decades, we didn't have the new style 1 piece blue Fel-Pro OS34509T Engine Oil Pan Gasket Set oil pan gaskets back in the day and I was wondering if YOU feel there worth the extra cash to use them on a new fresh 327 SBC rebuild over a standard 4 piece old school set . Seems the oil school gaskets seal up when new but start leaking as the mileage & age gets to them.
After swapping pan gasket I was worried about the pump I didn’t like the fact that I had to remove that bolt and it dropped down a little but I feel like it will be fine after this video. Is that drive shaft ever difficult to get on the distruster end ?
I have a old 77 Chevy caprice with a 5.7 350 and there sounds like a noise coming out of my oil pan. I was wondering if it could be my oil pump going out...Thanks for any advice..
i have a chevy 350 5.7 that is running oil pressure from 55 pounds to 80 pounds..is that too high? if so, would the fix be in the spring/valve on the oil pump?
Building a late 350 block getting close to needed the oil pump on, this is the first motor iv built myself, I torqued all the main caps with out the oil pump on could I have damaged my bearing? And I'm not sure if its only the late blocks mines a 91 ther was a plate kinda shaped like Idaho thin sheet metal like us it nessesery that I use this? I think it's to keep the oil from sloshing up to the crank. Any help thank you
I see on this build that you are using a one piece oil pan gasket that is blue as opposed to one that has separate main bearing gaskets. | was wondering what you thought about this one piece gasket?
I have a question? I have a 93' GMC Sierra with a 5.7 TBI motor that I'm currently re-assembling having had the heads milled and installing a new timing chain and gear set. I was inserting the distributor and pulled the oil pump shaft out with distributor trying to set it in right. My question is, would it be a problem to insert the oil pump shaft back in from the top or does the oil pump now have to come out to fix the problem?
I know this is an old video but, what are your thoughts on high-volume oil pumps vs standard.. Many say there is no need for a high-volume oil pump on a performance small block chevy (for me lt1 gen 2) and that it puts more stress on the cam gear stripping it out within 10-30 thousand miles. (this is a roller cam setup) I have never had this problem but thought I would open a discussion due to the fact I am always open for input from professional engine builds that do this job day in and out not the sounding boards
Can a oil pump make your engine knock or ping if its not working correctly? I have a 84 Chevy el comino w/305 small block w/ a 350 turbo trans. It was only doing it when I shut it off now it comes and goes running or not!?
myvintageiron7512 I have a 2004 chevy suburban and it wont start anymore..it turns over n tries to start but uust wont..I just put a brand new battery in it also..but my oil pressure gauge reads 0 and my truck wont start..I changed the oil and oil filter and it still wont start..is it my oil pump? what r your suggestions?
Ok thanks man. Also, I just put a rebuilt motor in my truck and it's running real low oil pressure. Like the minimum of what it should be. About 8@1000rpm 12@2000 and like 20@4000. I was told it has a brand new Melling high volume oil pump in it. So what else should I be checking for? Has a manual guage for the oil pressure, so I know it's reading right.
What's the symptoms of failing or failed oil pump? My brothers truck has no oil on top end but if its in park the oil pressure gauge in cab reads around 200 if it's put in drive it drops dramatically about half. Any ideas?
I have a 327 2 piece main seal where the seal comes in contact with the block can you use silicone? if you do and you shouldn't what are the Ramifications . I'm talking the whole length of the seal on both pieces where they come in contact with the block and the main cap in the channel of the gasket . it is a Fel -Pro gasket.
Thanks for this video I have a 93 gmc k1500 350. Is it normal for a 350 to have a gasket between the pump and the rear main cap display ? I just want to make sure. Is their a second plastic sleeve on the distributer side? Is that common? I didn't see a second sleeve. Any tips for a upsidedown install I've already disassembled everything. Thanks again
if you use the plastic kind it might fail and your parts will be in the bottom of your oil pan. very bad idea that gm is using. order the steel rod it holds much better.
Question for you. I recently purchased a sbc that has been rebuilt. The block was painted , however the exhaust ports were not covered. and over spray lightly covers the back side of the valves. Is this or going to be an issue ? Thanks
How do you ensure the shaft is in the right spot on the distributor when u install the pump? Does it fit in a certain groove or can you just slide it in and away you go?
Thanks for being the only person on here that actually goes over the intermediate shaft.
Okay I'm going to say it ,I really do love you Man .
You saved me so so much money.
And now my 350 nightstand can go in my pickup truck and my Wife won't think I'm stupid and didn't know what the heck I'm doing .
Thanks Man 😉
Great video. I’m installing a new melling oil pump on my 5.7 vortec and this answered my question about a gasket and the torque spec. Much appreciated.
Glad it helped
Thanks for all the videos. I"m re-building a 98 Vortec 5.7 for my 68 C10 project and your vids have helped not only get things right, but saved money as well.
1 of 2 I have just watched your video and did as you said as far as changing my oil pump and screen in a 97' GMC C3500 5.7 vortex engine that was already installed in my van. Everything went smooth while doing it and finishing it up. I added 4 quarts of oil (15W-30) and 1 quart of oil to the filter and checked it. Fine, no problems.
Myvintageiron7512, Thanks for the video- very helpful. Get yourself a couple of 1"x1/4"x1/4" magnets from the BAY. Line those end-to-end in the bottom of the oil pan where the end of the pump would touch it. Install the pan flush to gasket. Remove pan, remove magnets. There is now a 1/4" gap. You heard it here first on Roller Derby.
Alan Tibbetts
I have enjoyed your 383 stroker build series..very infomative. Was wondering if you would ever consider making a video about EXACTLY the way YOU assemble a SBC (not how to install crank, cam heads, etc) but a step by step on assembly. Example: when to put oil pan on, oil pump, heads, intake, timing chain assy, in other words all the simple things most motor heads take for granted. This is going to be my first build and I have some rather pricey parts and don't want to mess anything up along the (or have to go back and redo something because this was supposed to go on before that). Just a thought..again..thanks for your expertise. Look forward to the video.
Seems like to me between all his videos he covers all.
Also awesome how you showed how to set depth on oil pickup. I wasn’t thinking and moved pickup on old pump and had it off and out of wack before I even realized I was supposed to make marks lol so thanks again.
that dude is one of the best engine builders in the world for sure ,, great video thanks for sharing
Great video! I sure do appreciate watching an experienced engine builder, giving great advice! It’s been a while for me.
I love your videos. Week of thanksgiving I'm planning to assemble my 383. Hopefully I've done my research and gathered the right parts. Thanks to your videos I have all the assistance I could need. Thanks again friend.
Very good job at explaining. Working on my neighborhoods truck. She its like 69. Almost never changed the oil. Smh. Truck would barely run. I had a hard just getting the oil pan out. 4x4. Thanks again brother mechanic!
Glad to help
Just want to say thank You ‼️‼️‼️ The info you provided answered all my questions Thanks. I'm replacing a rear Main in a Chev 350 I had dropped into a 80 TA . I'm a so called class C tech & this was a bit nerve racking to say the least.
Much appreciated, your communication is on point, I knew I missed this last rebuild.... Thanks for the videos, cheers!
+David Torres yes, it does thats the housing of the oil filter we are not able to get off. And my husband thinks that he could possibly tap it and move the bell housing a little out of the way, and hopefully we can get to the oil pump. Gonna have to finish it tomoro though.
When I set the oil pump pickup screen air gap between the screen and the pan I do it just like he does and then I run a little borescope camera in thru the drain plug hole and make sure the gap is 100% correct. The borescope camera I use cost about 30 bucks and I use it for all kinds of stuff.
Man you are one great mechanic..I actually made my own tool for pressing the lines In and It works like a champ..
How about a video on 'what gaskets need sealing and which do not". I've seen so many videos that say no goo on headgaskets, some say copper spray, some say no goo on waterpump gaskets, some say use goo. Also: what about the 'forgotten oil galley plug"? Will the machine shop take it out and not replace it when the block is hot tanked?
this answers 2 questions, oil pump gasket not needed and oil pump bolt not needing lock washer,thanks
One of the best demonstrations I've seen. Do you recommend using RTV on the outer corners of that one piece pan gasket? How about on both sides of the chain cover, and where the seal mates to the cover? THANKS
A decent vid. Good move going with the steel sleeve drive shaft. You should probably tack weld the pickup, even on a stock POS. You never know what an engine may have to endure before it gets rebuilt. The next guy may trash it, but at least you'll know you did your job right, and the pickup's not to blame.
I noticed this is an 880 casting you are working on. I am using this same block to build a marine version of the engine to replace a Volvo Penta 5.7 with TBI and Vortec heads. Looking through some info I see possible 5.7 crankshafts as 14088526 and 14088535. Are these directly interchangeable? Been searching the web and can not find any info regarding that. Thx. Love your videos!
Great video and explanation of the process!! Better than the companies that make the pumps. Thanks
when preoiling the pump is making a fair bit of noise ....suggestions noise sounds like it tranfers right into pan first build
Very well done -thanks for taking the time to help us DIY'rs out here ...
Tried 85 ft/lbs per Chevy Power and pulled the threads out so I drilled out the blind hole, tapped it through, then used an ARP stud and only 55 ft/lbs. That was over 3 years ago.
TQ is 50 on the pump
@@Myvintageiron7512 Sounds ample to me.
Really good video. ..you did not even get dirty. .now try doing the same procedure on a 96 gmc yukon 4x4 with the engine still in the truck and then condense the video into a 9min job...thank you.
did you get it done? how hard was it? I need to do the same
Your videos are super helpful. I was trying to figure out if I need a oil pump gasket.
Glad I could help
What keeps that shaft from just falling out through the distributor hole ?
It is my understanding they also make a blue rubber gasket like the one in this video for a two piece rear main seal motor. I was wondering if you had ever used them and what you thought about putting one on a 3970010 block which has a 2 piece rear main seal crank. Thanks in advance for your wisdom and assistance !!!!!!
Very nice video. Thank you for taking the time to make and post. Just subscribed
I've been reassembling my 350 motor. I used the same steps to install the oil pump and pick up except I used the depth of the pan to set the position of the screen. I bench primed the pump, My question is now that it is installed I don't seem to get the flow thru the push rods when using a drill motor testing the pump drive. Would it help if I rotate the crank, or what might you suggest?
Great information, but please buy a $18 wired lapel mic on Amazon or b&h so the audio goes up 1000%
i though the oil pick up tube was press fit into the pump body? you are moving it with your hands setting it's height.
Is there anyway that melling intermediate shaft can be installed from the top under the distributor.... I think I forgot to put the plastic collar on when building my engine but I do have an after market melling shaft ... Kinda dont wanna drop the pan to change it
Thanks, that was interesting, I was wondering what type, if any gasket sealer you`d use on that type of sump gasket.
Hello..I have a Question...I have an 1988 GMC Suburban 5.7l...My Oil gauge isn't working.. ..Turns out I removed the Sending Unit above the Oil Filter housing ..Started the engine ...No oil was coming out ..??...is there a Tube or something that got disconnected in the Oil Pan...Thanxs Daren..
That was helpful tks,I'm wondering though,my application is a marine SBC since those motors run high RPM's is it a good idea to tack weld the oil pick up tube in place..tks again
yes, absolutely.
I tape a flat piece of 1/4 flat plate to top of pickup screen and sit pan down on top and push down that gives me the depth I need good video
Is there a check valve in that pump that doesn't allow pressure to bleed off? I have a 1998 5.7 Sometimes at start up I here a either a knock and or valve/lifter noise. Sometimes not. Has done this every since rebuild.
Thanks for that. I haven't installed the sump yet but I'll move the angle of the screen
May I ask questions that circle around one issue please? Ever since I had my 89 Cheve Silverado 350 engine rebuilt about 10 months ago, my engine will often start with a knock. To me it has a strong resemblance of a rod bearing. it lasts for about a second or two and I notice it stops as soon as the oil pressure gauge on the dash starts to move toward positive pressure. I sense it may be getting worse but not convinced. Oil pressure is good. 60 psi cold, 12 - 20 warm at idle and in gear. The overhaul included boring cylinders, milling heads, grinding the crank, new pistons, rings, new main and rod bearings and a new oil pump.Is it possible the oil pump is causing the dry starts? I installed it with the screen as parallel to the block as possible, not 1/4 inch from pan as I found out should be not to long ago. Could this be the problem? My thoughts are to reposition the screen and I am wondering if it would it be okay to replace the rod bearings with new ones as a precaution before they start doing damage to the journals? Your video on installing the oil pump was very much appreciated. Thanks in advance for any help on the dry starts.
+89 Sylver T Yes the pick up screen should be moved and bearings replaced
I just bought a 93 Silverado and it does the same exact thing. Cold start rattle, then quiets down once pressure is up. Maintains good oil pressure driving down the road. Once it comes to an idle is sounds like a light ticking noise, almost like small marbles rolling around. I can tell this motor isn't original based off the casting numbers and the fact that it's all painted. My guess is either a pump screen issue or a main bearing. I plan on looking at it closer this weekend.
i would imagine the compressed thickness of the gasket is between 1/4 and 3/8, would it be reasonable to do the same thing you did as far as putting the pan on to move the pickup, but without the gasket?
Hi. I have a 95 suburban 1500 4×4 with a 350 motor. Oil pressure very slow to come out. And the motor knocks until the oil pressure raises. Is there a way to check the oil pressure? Your advice will be appreciated .
hook up a manual gage
In my Omega 350 .granmas car i inherited ..running still..had a clicking lifter on passenger side..let me to dissasemble and clean ever lifter..put ut back togeather ,started it.. clicking came back.humm then i started to notice no oil realy comeing up the tubes to the rockers😑so im guessing its only ran every week for 50 years maby it needs a oil pump. I just want to give my 16 year old dog a few last rides..any sugestions?
This is the same process for a gen 2 350? Because I have a 88 firebird GTA 5.7L and im wondering if I can do this without pulling the engine.
timmyboy836
1 second ago
when preoiling the pump is making a fair bit of noise ....suggestions? noise sounds like it tranfers right into pan ( first build ) sorry bad punc first time
My 75 corvette l48 chewed up the nylon cam gear. I pulled the cover and see lots of missing plastic chunks are in my pan. A few weeks ago I noticed car would run a little hotter but it was summer heat. It threw the chain in my driveway when starting not running. Sgould i replace the oil pump and what else should I check adter installing the new melling double roller chain and gears?
What is the tool you used to press the pickup tube in and is there a good way of doing it without a special tool?
Do they make a solid oil pan gasket like the one in this video for a two piece crank seal ? I would like to use one like this on my 3970010 block but I don't want one if they have a better chance to leak. Thanks, dt
I have a question about cam button when I disassembled the the engine “a 1976 gmc 350 4bolt main truck engine” well it didn’t have a cam button does it need one the engine was rebuilt by someone previously
And this video was very helpful thank you
Cam button is for roller cam.
I just bought a 99 tahoe 5.7 vortech 250k had a misfire. Turns out bent exhaust valve I put new heads on and sealed it up. But now I seem to have low oil pressure.. I changes the oil and filter after.. but could the pickup tube be clogged now from being sloppy with block surface buffing?
When installing a high volume oil pump,it sits higher than the standard pump.How do you adjust the oil pickup when using a standard pan?
Does the shaft that drives the pump have any sort of retainer on the top end? I'm asking because I might consider changing my oil pump with it in the truck. I know I can access the pump with it in the truck still.
Why would my oil pressure start running high? I changed oil and filter.
After installation of the pump when installing the distributor. Will where the pump drive shaft sit mess with which tooth my gear on the distributor sits? I'm having issues getting my 85 iroc to properly sit on timing. Distributor dropped all the way, timing chain is on the correct tooth, and timing set it at 6° advanced, but still acts like it's out if time, so cant the oil pump driveshaft be sitting in the wrong position for my distributor to sit on the correct drive tooth?
Do I need to do anything special if I use a stud instead of a bolt to mount my oil pump?
How about the Oil Filter unit 1978 Chevy 350...is there a Gasket that goes in there with the 2 bolts ?
On el caminos do u need to pull the engine out a little to remove the oil pan to replace the gasket .
I have one question. Am i able to do this under the truck or am i just going to have oil dripping every where on me
first off drain your oil. then wait or wipe off excess. yes, you can do it from an installed motor. .
question I have a high-volume oil pump I have great oil pressure at start when heats up dropping below 10 after running about an hour dropping to zero I put the oil pump on do you think the pickup screen has anything to do with that thank you
I know this is old. I have no idea what you are talking about.
I was priming the oil pump with a prime tool and drill and it feels like a bump in one spot. to better explain it (i hope) at the end of a full turn the drill kind of has a jerk like feel or bump to it. i would think it should be smooth all the way around (360) any idea or seen any thing like it? bbc 454 just rebuilt the shaft is like the one you used in the vid the upgraded one. thx mb
Got an 88 350 tbi is it possible to change the oil pump with a cherry picker or floor Jack without removing the motor? I mean I realize I’ll have to drop muffler and loosen my motor mounts and probably front drive line as well but it’s a daily driver and really can’t afford to pull the block
Is there nothing that holds that oil pump drive shaft on cause it just falls off when the motor is upside down or won’t it come out when you pull the distributor
Damn uncle iron looking real young here
I jacked up my K5 Blazer under the oil pan to replace my motor mounts and dented the oil pan @ 2 inches. Do you think I should drop the oil pan and pound it out or you think I might be ok?
Thanks,I,am doing a fuel pump switch from 2wd to 4wd ,first time for me doing this.It,s a 4.3 vortec . I,ll switch oil pans as well. my question is oil pumps through with drill , does this indicate that I have a good pump and I should have have enough oil pressure. it,s a used pump, perhaps a new one is the only way to go ? Good informitive video.
Great video. Thanks for taking the time to make this.
Good advise!
When I really need a high volume oil pump? If I decide to go with the high volume, I need a more capacity oil pan?
no
I just rebuilt and installed SBC 350 in my Blazer, and oil pressure at startup is @ 50psi when it warms up oil pressure is @ 10psi. Is this normal for a 70's block ? It has 268xe cam, timing chain and hydraulic lifters, stock crank and 30 over Pistons. Oh yea and stock size Mahle oil pump.
Hay man on my 383 block the number one and four cylinder at the very top are a little dent or like a low spot were it was bored 30 over was left but the rest of the cylinders turned out great but the machinist said it was ok that it wont hurt anything !!! should I believe him !!!! first and the second ring might go over but the oil rings will clear this its like the size of a salt crystal..
This was great - thanks! Looking for the oil pump gasket for a bit now - explains why I could not find it =)
You give great information and had a question that I've looked on utube for and nothing really solid....anyway my ??? On oil pressure 81 chevy 350 motor approx 35,000 been sitting for some time....starts up runs great minus tune up and Quadra junk carb but after warm up oil pressure goes to zero with Guage off block bypassing sending unit...it's gonna be an engine pull no pan access cross member.....what an I looking at? Bad oil pump or blocked spun bearing passages kinda confused the thinner the oil gets should flow better....my thought oil pump with posible crank shafts bearing damage.....if spun bearing plan on engine junk.....SUCKS just did major body repair, interior, brakes shocks dropped bank and hours and now this..DAM YOU MURPHY.....
I have a question for you I have a Vortec 4.3 liter and I was curious if this operation is basically the same? looks the same in the same area this is in my boat so I have to remove the full engine
Hi bud I recently finished building a 540 bbc I noticed the distributor was not sitting completely flush on manifold without gasket, engine is on a run test start , so I got the nylon washer spacers used the thick one , engine started no issues , oil pressure 50 psi, then it started leaking oil from the washer so I made some gaskets and put on either side of nylon washer , started it up and noticed no oil pressure and noise, so I pulled out dizzy and noticed drive shaft was not engaging , pulled out and just used one gasket , noise gone pressure back up 50psi but I noticed with measuring that drive shaft is only sliding in to dizzy shaft maybe a few mms
It’s a dart big m block ,mellings standard pump and mellings bbc drive shat what are your thoughts on this please help you seem very knowledgeable I watch all you clips
Hello If I made my 1997 vortec 350 engine until 383 do I need to change oil pan do to clearance?
just wanted to double check . You said you don't need the gasket for the pump and the torque for the bolt is 50 lbs. for my 350 chev engine. Great video !
Yes that's correct
myvintageiron7512 thanks for the help .
I been building motors for decades, we didn't have the new style 1 piece blue Fel-Pro OS34509T Engine Oil Pan Gasket Set oil pan gaskets back in the day and I was wondering if YOU feel there worth the extra cash to use them on a new fresh 327 SBC rebuild over a standard 4 piece old school set . Seems the oil school gaskets seal up when new but start leaking as the mileage & age gets to them.
yes well worth the money
Doh! I forgot about that intermediate shaft.... thanks!
I am working on a 1993 GMC K1500 4x4 with a 350 motor. Is it possible to pull the oil pan and replace the oil pump without raising the engine?
What do I need to do to get the pump install
After swapping pan gasket I was worried about the pump I didn’t like the fact that I had to remove that bolt and it dropped down a little but I feel like it will be fine after this video. Is that drive shaft ever difficult to get on the distruster end ?
no not really
I have a old 77 Chevy caprice with a 5.7 350 and there sounds like a noise coming out of my oil pan. I was wondering if it could be my oil pump going out...Thanks for any advice..
i have a chevy 350 5.7 that is running oil pressure from 55 pounds to 80 pounds..is that too high? if so, would the fix be in the spring/valve on the oil pump?
Building a late 350 block getting close to needed the oil pump on, this is the first motor iv built myself, I torqued all the main caps with out the oil pump on could I have damaged my bearing? And I'm not sure if its only the late blocks mines a 91 ther was a plate kinda shaped like Idaho thin sheet metal like us it nessesery that I use this? I think it's to keep the oil from sloshing up to the crank. Any help thank you
I see on this build that you are using a one piece oil pan gasket that is blue as opposed to one that has separate main bearing gaskets. | was wondering what you thought about this one piece gasket?
They work very well
I have a question? I have a 93' GMC Sierra with a 5.7 TBI motor that I'm currently re-assembling having had the heads milled and installing a new timing chain and gear set. I was inserting the distributor and pulled the oil pump shaft out with distributor trying to set it in right. My question is, would it be a problem to insert the oil pump shaft back in from the top or does the oil pump now have to come out to fix the problem?
Just put it in from the top as long as the plastic retainer is still in place
I know this is an old video but, what are your thoughts on high-volume oil pumps vs standard.. Many say there is no need for a high-volume oil pump on a performance small block chevy (for me lt1 gen 2) and that it puts more stress on the cam gear stripping it out within 10-30 thousand miles. (this is a roller cam setup) I have never had this problem but thought I would open a discussion due to the fact I am always open for input from professional engine builds that do this job day in and out not the sounding boards
Can a oil pump make your engine knock or ping if its not working correctly? I have a 84 Chevy el comino w/305 small block w/ a 350 turbo trans. It was only doing it when I shut it off now it comes and goes running or not!?
My oil pickup screen on my 350 is loose. It rotates easily. Is it defective?
myvintageiron7512 I have a 2004 chevy suburban and it wont start anymore..it turns over n tries to start but uust wont..I just put a brand new battery in it also..but my oil pressure gauge reads 0 and my truck wont start..I changed the oil and oil filter and it still wont start..is it my oil pump? what r your suggestions?
One quick question about the rubber pan gasket. Do you use any RTV sealant or just depend on the fact that its rubber to seal? Thanks.
I always use a small amount on the four connors
Ok thanks man. Also, I just put a rebuilt motor in my truck and it's running real low oil pressure. Like the minimum of what it should be. About 8@1000rpm 12@2000 and like 20@4000. I was told it has a brand new Melling high volume oil pump in it. So what else should I be checking for? Has a manual guage for the oil pressure, so I know it's reading right.
+osufan36 wow that's really low for a HV pump I think you may have some excessive clearances in the engine
@@Myvintageiron7512 ever figure that out?
What's the symptoms of failing or failed oil pump? My brothers truck has no oil on top end but if its in park the oil pressure gauge in cab reads around 200 if it's put in drive it drops dramatically about half. Any ideas?
reads 200 at idle? that shouldnt be right
What stud did you use I can't tell what I can use for the block I have
I have a 327 2 piece main seal where the seal comes in contact with the block can you use silicone? if you do and you shouldn't what are the Ramifications . I'm talking the whole length of the seal on both pieces where they come in contact with the block and the main cap in the channel of the gasket . it is a Fel -Pro gasket.
Yes you should use some sealer between the main cap and the block or it will seep oil
Thanks for this video I have a 93 gmc k1500 350. Is it normal for a 350 to have a gasket between the pump and the rear main cap display ? I just want to make sure. Is their a second plastic sleeve on the distributer side? Is that common? I didn't see a second sleeve. Any tips for a upsidedown install I've already disassembled everything.
Thanks again
I never run the gasket get your self an oil pump shaft with a steel sleeve
My question is will the oil pump shaft make a knocking or rattling noise without the steal rod?
if you use the plastic kind it might fail and your parts will be in the bottom of your oil pan. very bad idea that gm is using. order the steel rod it holds much better.
Question for you. I recently purchased a sbc that has been rebuilt. The block was painted , however the exhaust ports were not covered. and over spray lightly covers the back side of the valves. Is this or going to be an issue ?
Thanks
david white the hot exhaust will take care of it.
No it's fine that paint will vaporize the first few seconds of run time
How do you ensure the shaft is in the right spot on the distributor when u install the pump? Does it fit in a certain groove or can you just slide it in and away you go?
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