Getting ready to do my first Corian project, one of my guys did a whole hotel, so while I am relying on his experience….I am looking for some additional input. Thanks for your videos!!!
Andy, I am glad to see that you gave this method a try. I have never raised the seam area and never had any issues with achieving a tight fit using the free hand seaming method. Over the years it has saved me lots of time.
Hi John, yep it's amazing And works great. The credit goes to you. I also use the shim to avoid cutting into the work table. Especially with employees, it kinda a fail safe way to cut a seam.
Great video, Andy. Getting ready to do my first project and will need to do a seam so this is perfect! One question: Do you have a recommendation as to which brand adhesive to use (for Corian)? Thanks.
Hey Andy Thanks for the video, I have a question, would and could you do the same with a 3 meters long seam, on a countertop with himacs plates colour aurora Blanc you know with the wavy design pattern, I don’t know if the plates even if they’re in a consecutive order will line up pattern vice when put against each other with the long edges. I’m told do make a freehand router cut in sort of an S shape, Hope I makes sense 😅 What would you do? Best regards Anders
thank you for posting my question is Can I do the seam this way for a table top and make an extra leaf with matching seams and not glue anything? Will the solid surface warp over time? I would like to be able to adjust the size of my top for different settings Thank you again for posting
Hi Andy! This video is really helpful. I am about to seam 2 pieces into a 40ft section. It will have a built up lip edge. Essentially a long counter, if the Corian is already sanded and finished. Would I just follow the process of sanding and wiping clean like you did in the video or what do I need to do after I seam that? Just wanting to clarify. Thanks again!
@@AndyGraves I really that was a confusing question. I did some more research on your videos, I guess my question has now morphed into 2 questions 1) do you think I would be able to blend the finish, wether it’s finished with the scotch Brite pad or polished or would I have to refinish the entire length of the counter to make it blend? I have very little experience with the finishing process. 2) what is your recommendation for finishing the drop edge. Would you just sand it down the epoxy or would you reroute the edge? Thanks again!
1. You can blend it to the surrounding area. But you are a novice so it's going to take some more time and patience. 2. Is the drop edge a detailed profile? If it is then just sand the top flat and you can reroute that section of the countertop. Or if it's a simple profile then just sanding it will suffice.
It's hard as hell. So we typically build the top and then cut all the deck seams. Then we check the template to make sure it's a perfect fit. We set clamp the seams together and then glue on the cove back splash. To adjust after, we flip the top over and cut off what wee need using a straight edge and router. But it's very difficult to get it perfect.
What do think about using a wavy router bit.? On short seams , I find that a wavy bit works well . On long counter top sections I typically glue the build ups on first , then glue the tops together on location. Most of the tops I install are 20 feet or sometimes longer. I work at a school district, occasionally I will have 40 feet of work space in 1 run . I have mixed results with having an invisible seam . The issue is that once I route through the 1”1/2 edge the router vibrates really hard and drifts just enough to gap the seam . Do you have any videos or links to videos for technics on seaming with the build up already installed. I’m a big fan of your videos. Thanks for posting.
I do not have any videos of that process. What you need to do is get a big 2.5 HP router and install a square base. Then get a nice straight edge that is actually straight. Next, buy an Amana or equal 2", double flute, 1/2 DIA router bit (Don't use this bit for anything but seams to keep it sharp). Now figure the distance from the bit to the edge of the straight edge and clamp the straight edge so it cuts off just a fuzz of the seam. I'm talking cutting off paper thin material from the seam. Last, apply two layers of 1" masking tape to the bottom side of the router base that is closest to the straight edge. This will create a back bevel on the seam. Now cut the seam SLOWLY through the edge buildup. If you get a crappy cut, barely tap the straight edge over and try again. You may have to block sand the entire edge using a Corian block and PSA 80 grit sandpaper to dress it up a tiny bit. But other than that it will work perfect. Hope that helps
@@AndyGraves thank you for the response. I have been using most of your suggestions. I need to add the tape to the 1 side and try cutting less material. Typically I’ve been removing 1/8 “ of material. It never occurred to me to shave off less. I use a festool 2200 router , I believe it’s around a 3 hp equivalent. When doing field work that dust collection is really helpful.
@@AndyGraves Not to be ignorant, but why not? If I use a diamond blade, move slowly, and (super)fine sand the edge? I don't have a router, and don't want to purchase one & learn how to use it for a one-time job if I can get by with a circular saw. This is for our old corian counters, which we moved to the basement. I need to trim them down a bit, to fit.
@@chrgdsolar7782 Click on a link in the description and it will take you to Amazon. The search for Artisan Adhesive. Keep in mind you need the exact color adhesive that matches your material.
A wavy seam is by far the best seam in the world for hiding joints especially on heavily grained/textured material. The wavy in this video is tiny. You should see some seriously wavy seams. Like a random wet noodle. Pretty much invisible on brutal material.
It's the path of least resistance. The but will track right down the middle with it kinda moving side to side a little as you pull it through. But it's always cutting both edges.
@@AndyGraveshi Andy, when using something to pack it up won’t you end up with a gap on the underside and on the lower side of the edges once the packer is removed? Ben
Thanks for watching. If you have any ideas or questions please comment. Let me know if you have any ideas for future videos.
Have hmm jcj
What is that?
Getting ready to do my first Corian project, one of my guys did a whole hotel, so while I am relying on his experience….I am looking for some additional input. Thanks for your videos!!!
That's exciting. I'm glad my videos helped you. Good luck with everything, it's gonna be great
Andy, I am glad to see that you gave this method a try. I have never raised the seam area and never had any issues with achieving a tight fit using the free hand seaming method. Over the years it has saved me lots of time.
Hi John, yep it's amazing And works great. The credit goes to you.
I also use the shim to avoid cutting into the work table. Especially with employees, it kinda a fail safe way to cut a seam.
That was amazing
Thank you
Love the freehand way, its pretty much a scribe and as long as both sides stay in place they will always have a perfect match. Great Vid Andy
Absolutely. I've used it a lot lately want it works great. Thanks
the best cutting technique for diy folks, thank you
Thank you, glad it helped
Wow you make it look so easy
Thanks
Hey Andy I would like to see a video on how you setup the work tables. I learn a lot from your videos and use them to train employees. Thank you.
Are you talking about the stretchers on the horses that you see in my shop?
@@AndyGraves yes you seam to have a good system.
Excellent instructive video. Your technique looks to be a real efficient joining technique.
Glad it was helpful!
Great video. I have a job coming up with this material. First time ever wish me luck
Good luck 🤞
AWESOME VIDEO! YOU EXPLAINED SO WELL AND THE RESULT WAS BEAUTIFUL!
Thank you, much appreciated.
Awesome video and your work that you do. I’ve done that before but never raised it so the cut is at an angle. Keep the videos coming🔥🔥
If you have never had an issue with the seam not pulling perfectly tight, you could eliminate the wood strip. Is not mandatory but we find it helps.
Thank you, big help. Much appreciated.
You're welcome
Very good
Thank you 🙏🏼
That’s amazing
Good job
Thank you
Just wow
Thank you
Благодарю. Супер
Thank you
Great video, Andy. Getting ready to do my first project and will need to do a seam so this is perfect! One question: Do you have a recommendation as to which brand adhesive to use (for Corian)? Thanks.
Thank you. Use Corian adhesive that is the correct color match to your countertop color.
@@AndyGraves Ah, I misread Corian's webpage and thought they discontinued it....they just reformulated it. Much appreciated!
Awesome!!!!! Owww myyyyyyyy
Give it a try.
Absolutely!!!! Keep them coming , not a lot of professional out there making good content!!!
I’d love to see your tables or fab stands I need something that holds my stuff in place esp smaller tops
I just use saw horses. I'm sure they are visible in my videos. Email me and I can send a picture.
Andy your video is very informative and easy to follow. Would you recommend placing an undermount sink along the seam of the corian countertop?
You could seam the material and then do a sink under it.
@@AndyGraves I’m hesitant as I’m wondering if the seam will be efficient as the seam will be passing where the undermount sink will be installed
Just make sure the cabinets are flat and it will be fine. The Corian adhesive is super strong.
@@AndyGraves what model router do you use?
What about thermoforming a sink into the corian first and doing the routing after?
Thanks for the video. What sort of glue do you use to join corian top?
You're welcome. Use Corian adhesive. Or, there is a link to an adhesive in the video description.
Hey Andy
Thanks for the video, I have a question, would and could you do the same with a 3 meters long seam, on a countertop with himacs plates colour aurora Blanc you know with the wavy design pattern, I don’t know if the plates even if they’re in a consecutive order will line up pattern vice when put against each other with the long edges.
I’m told do make a freehand router cut in sort of an S shape,
Hope I makes sense 😅
What would you do?
Best regards
Anders
Are you trying to make a long seam on material with veining?
thank you for posting my question is Can I do the seam this way for a table top and make an extra leaf with matching seams and not glue anything? Will the solid surface warp over time? I would like to be able to adjust the size of my top for different settings Thank you again for posting
Yes, but put at least a tiny radius on the top edge so it's not sharp
Is the single flute bit needed for this, or just what you had handy?
Yeah, just use a straight bit. As long as it's sharp it should do the trick.
Hi Andy! This video is really helpful. I am about to seam 2 pieces into a 40ft section. It will have a built up lip edge. Essentially a long counter, if the Corian is already sanded and finished. Would I just follow the process of sanding and wiping clean like you did in the video or what do I need to do after I seam that? Just wanting to clarify. Thanks again!
Are you asking what's the next step after you glue the seam together?
@@AndyGraves I really that was a confusing question. I did some more research on your videos, I guess my question has now morphed into 2 questions
1) do you think I would be able to blend the finish, wether it’s finished with the scotch Brite pad or polished or would I have to refinish the entire length of the counter to make it blend? I have very little experience with the finishing process.
2) what is your recommendation for finishing the drop edge. Would you just sand it down the epoxy or would you reroute the edge?
Thanks again!
1. You can blend it to the surrounding area. But you are a novice so it's going to take some more time and patience.
2. Is the drop edge a detailed profile? If it is then just sand the top flat and you can reroute that section of the countertop. Or if it's a simple profile then just sanding it will suffice.
@@AndyGraves thank you! It will be a learning experience for sure. Appreciate both those helpful answers. Will return with results!
@devinlopez9253 Excellent, there are other videos as well to help.
I wish it could be the. Same. In quartz
Yeah that would be awesome.
Would this work for corner seams?
Sure it would.
🎉🎉🎉🎉
Thanks
how do you adjust a joint with a cove on?
It's hard as hell. So we typically build the top and then cut all the deck seams. Then we check the template to make sure it's a perfect fit.
We set clamp the seams together and then glue on the cove back splash.
To adjust after, we flip the top over and cut off what wee need using a straight edge and router. But it's very difficult to get it perfect.
What do think about using a wavy router bit.? On short seams , I find that a wavy bit works well . On long counter top sections I typically glue the build ups on first , then glue the tops together on location. Most of the tops I install are 20 feet or sometimes longer. I work at a school district, occasionally I will have 40 feet of work space in 1 run . I have mixed results with having an invisible seam . The issue is that once I route through the 1”1/2 edge the router vibrates really hard and drifts just enough to gap the seam . Do you have any videos or links to videos for technics on seaming with the build up already installed. I’m a big fan of your videos. Thanks for posting.
I do not have any videos of that process. What you need to do is get a big 2.5 HP router and install a square base. Then get a nice straight edge that is actually straight.
Next, buy an Amana or equal 2", double flute, 1/2 DIA router bit (Don't use this bit for anything but seams to keep it sharp). Now figure the distance from the bit to the edge of the straight edge and clamp the straight edge so it cuts off just a fuzz of the seam. I'm talking cutting off paper thin material from the seam.
Last, apply two layers of 1" masking tape to the bottom side of the router base that is closest to the straight edge. This will create a back bevel on the seam.
Now cut the seam SLOWLY through the edge buildup. If you get a crappy cut, barely tap the straight edge over and try again.
You may have to block sand the entire edge using a Corian block and PSA 80 grit sandpaper to dress it up a tiny bit. But other than that it will work perfect.
Hope that helps
@@AndyGraves thank you for the response. I have been using most of your suggestions. I need to add the tape to the 1 side and try cutting less material. Typically I’ve been removing 1/8 “ of material. It never occurred to me to shave off less. I use a festool 2200 router , I believe it’s around a 3 hp equivalent. When doing field work that dust collection is really helpful.
What router bit was that and is it good for granites?
It will not work on granite. The router bit is in Amana single flute 1 in cutting length 3/8 diameter
@@AndyGraves
Thanks.
Ehat about solid white countertops. Would the seam show?
No, it would not show even on a white color.
I same work Saudi Arabia
I love it
Why do I need a router? Can't I just cut using a circular saw if I use a guide and a fine(er) blade?
Sure you can but it won't be a perfectly tight seam.
@@AndyGraves Not to be ignorant, but why not? If I use a diamond blade, move slowly, and (super)fine sand the edge? I don't have a router, and don't want to purchase one & learn how to use it for a one-time job if I can get by with a circular saw. This is for our old corian counters, which we moved to the basement. I need to trim them down a bit, to fit.
Oh no, you can cut it with a saw. A seam is just better when you cut it with a router that's all.
Does it work with quartz
I've never tried it on quartz.
What is the glue that is used and where can it be purchased.
I used Artisan Adhesive.
❤❤❤❤❤❤❤🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉
Thank you
How to find someone. Who can do work on corian San Jose ca
Type in solid surface fabricator near me and local places should come up.
👏👏👏👌👍🤝😎
Thanks
Just push the seam together, cut with a tracksaw.
That works, it's just not as tight as when you route it.
❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤
Thank you
How can I find someone who knows how to seal 2 pieces of corian together Morgan Jill can
Do you have a crack and need them glued back together?
@@AndyGraves I have a crack in my WilsonArt solid surface counters. What do you use for the glue?
@@chrgdsolar7782 Click on a link in the description and it will take you to Amazon. The search for Artisan Adhesive. Keep in mind you need the exact color adhesive that matches your material.
@@AndyGraves Thanks. I tried searching for it but couldn't find it. The color is Antique White 1572SL. Any other recommendations?
@@chrgdsolar7782 To confirm, your countertop color is antique white?
Why don’t you just use a straight edge and run the router from that ?
You can but if you're using veined material the dream will look much better.
Why on earth would you not use a straight edge ? Also why are you parking up the joint ?
It can help hide seam lines in veined or patterned materials.
Parking up the joint? Not sure what your asking.
A wavy seam is by far the best seam in the world for hiding joints especially on heavily grained/textured material. The wavy in this video is tiny. You should see some seriously wavy seams. Like a random wet noodle. Pretty much invisible on brutal material.
This was my exact question and their answer blew my mind. Everything makes sense now! Thanks
Yo bro your bits a little dull
Is this you being helpful?
Oriental fabricator job number
What does that mean?
I still don’t get this 🙈how’s does it not run off with out a guide
It's the path of least resistance. The but will track right down the middle with it kinda moving side to side a little as you pull it through. But it's always cutting both edges.
@@AndyGraveshi Andy, when using something to pack it up won’t you end up with a gap on the underside and on the lower side of the edges once the packer is removed?
Ben
Yes there is a tiny little gap in the bottom.
@@AndyGraves ok, what method would you use if the edge is seen? Thanks
Please explain further.