Bro, you’re a bad ass brother thank you I swear I’ve watched so many freaking videos and goddamn they’re just not explicit playing simple to explain and understand and Gali you’re right to the point you explain it very well. Really appreciate it man. I’m glad I found your brother. Thank you.
I looked at the instructions and circuit diagram for the Sea Dog. It appears to me that an alternator or a charger voltage greater than 13.3 VDC connects the batteries together. But when the batteries are not charging, the engine is not running or you are not plugged into a charger, the switch opens and the batteries are isolated from each other. That's a cool idea. That way you don't run down the cranking battery. Of course that means all the loads except the starter and engine circuits need to removed from the cranking battery.
@@TheJwertz I went back and looked concerned that without a manual switch, the cranking battery loads would be isolated from the other boat battery if the cranking battery failed. I see an "over ride wire" shown on the Sea Dog web site for the part 422790-1. I can assume that makes the connection between the batteries if no charging voltage is present. I don't know if you can crank a boat starter through the switch. I don't know what the current ratings are. Sorry, I can't say if a manual switch is not needed absolutely for all possibilities. I really think the Sea Dog isolator is about charging both batteries when running or on a charger, not about paralleling loads should one battery fail.
Will the isolator work the same charging the house battery when at home with shore power battery charger on the starting battery. What I'm getting to is I'm assuming I only need a single battery -battery charger.
I can't wait for that wiring video to drop, I'm going to attempt that on my 12ft jon boat. Need to do nav lights, headlights, deck lights, bilge and fish finder.
I'm going to install some led lights on my boat soon , I was wondering if they make terminals for those super ruby led wires or what's the best way to connect them other than soldering them together? Great video, great information . Much appreciated.
Great video! After installing this what position should I keep the battery switch while I’m running the boat...1, 2 or all. Sorry if I missed that part.
It doesn’t matter it will keep both batteries charged as long as the crank battery if full.. I would keep it on battery #1 the crank until you need to switch to battery #2 if you’re going to be sitting somewhere with Accessories running and your engine off.. thanks for watching and commenting
I order one from the link you gave for Amazon. Mine came with a yellow override wire that does not seem to Connect to anything The description on the back of the packaging is a bit confusing. 🤔
Great video, just one question i think i missed. once you connect the isolator, which position do you leave your battery switch in while running? starting position (1) or both? thanks in advance
Thanks ! So you just have to leave it in position one and it will keep the other battery charged.. that way when you switch to battery 2 it’s already charged up . Thanks for watching
Just had that done to my boat, works great. Great idea with doing a video on wiring a boat on the plywood, that will make it easyer to understang for a novice like me.
Awesome it’s a great upgrade! Hopefully that video will turn out as good as I have planned in my head.. lol thanks for watching and commenting always appreciated!
Great videos, my question is if I have a two channel battery charger will this isolator interfere with the charging of both batteries on 110v? I like having the charging ability while running the boat but I’m concerned about when I get home and plug it in. Thanks.
question, i am adding one to my boat and the i have a Battery Maintainer as well. The question is with the maintainer plugged up at home and charging the batteries going to interfere with the isolator? example, start battery doesn't need as much charging as the house, the maintainer gets the start battery full the isolator kicks over to house with the maintainer charging as well. didnt want to throw a spike or something of that nature, so checking :)
Hey I really enjoy your channel!! I have two questions. I am assuming this would be okay if you are using a ground jumper on the battery’s? Also, is there any need for fuse protection going to and from the isolator? Thank you again for your awesome videos!
In my last boat I installed the blue sea add a battery kit. I’m in the market for a new boat and will look into this acr as an option. Thanks for sharing
Can you run two of these off the crank battery one to the house and one to a trolling motor set up? Going to add one to my house battery for sure.. thanks
I would look into running a Minn kota alternator charger for the trolling motor batteries. And the ACR for the house battery. That was my set up on this boat. Thanks for watching
First and foremost, so glad I found your channel, great videos and explanations! Second, you mentioned ability to use an isolator without a switch. Would you be willing to do a very short wiring explanation vid of that?
I have a duel battery switch on the boat.. this is the perfect way to keep both batteries charging while on the water .. but not running around with them on 1&2 which is bad for your engine charging system and the batteries themselves.. thanks for watching and commenting
If you shouldn't switch batteries while the motor is running how can you ever use the house battery? If your trolling you have to have the motor on constantly. So does they mean you use the crank battery for everything? If I want to switch to the house batter they mean I have to turn the motor off and then start it with the house battery... what am I missing?
My directions say connect the small ground wire to the house battery, not the start battery. And also shows running a ground wire between both battery’s. Did you run the wire between them?
Thanks for the vids. I have a 24v trolling motor setup. Can I run these chargers up to each of my trolling motor batteries from the start motor. I was looking at MinnKota's alternator, but my Honda 40h alternator is less than Minn Kota's recommended alternator output, so I was looking at this for an alternative...Or do you thing the Monn Kota alternator would work
Is the cutoff in the VSR lower that the cutoff power for the rectifier/regulator in the engine. This controls the power put back into the battery while the engine is running. If the engine battery is fully charged, excess power is shunted to ground so if the engine battery is fully charged, the VSR will never send power to the second battery. What am I missing?
This is a great idea. So I have a battery charger/tender on my boat for my trolling battery and crank battery so while it sits in the garage I charge the batteries just connecting the extension cord.. Would I still be able to use this isolator without any issues?
So if you have a 12 v trolling motor with one 12v battery for it would be fine.. you can only hook up your Crank battery and one other 12v battery! Let me know if you have any questions.. I also have a battery charger for mine . Thanks for watching
@@ReelLifeFisherman thanks. Ues thats what I have a 12v trolling motor and a 12v crank motor. My charger is a 2 bank 15amp charger. I will need to include this isolator into the set up as well. That way I can have more different convienance means of charging.
Now that you have the Isolator, do you run your battery Selector Switch on "ALL" as a general rule all the time while you are out? Would selecting "1" or "2" on the Selector Switch prevent the other batter not selected from being charged?
Can this be done to a dual 24v (2 - 12 v batteries in series) for a trolling motor batteries, saw the previous question but his was a simple 1- 12v battery.
No unfortunately not.. one of the 2 batteries it’s hooked to need to the the cranking battery.. I would get a 2 bank alternator charger from minn kota .. I have one on my boat and it works great! But you have to make sure your engine puts out enough charge.. usually anything 75hp and up is enough. Thanks for watching
I am getting a kicker for my trolling and unfortunately my lights, radio, graph etc all go to the main motor.... i am trying to figure out what kinda battery I should use for the kicker (AGM, SLA? crank? deep cycle?) and then I need to figure out is the main motor battery the house? I am worried that battery will drain from everything going there. while using the kicker. Any info/ help is much appreciated.
That is what I did will monitor to see if it charging the second battery when the voltage reaches the limit. Thanks for the tips. Keep on making stuff for us to see. Be safe
Thanks a lot for this video! Really helpful ;) 1 question though: If I have a Battery Charger (the one I use when I arrive at the dock) connected to the house battery and this battery is connected to the crank battery through a Battery Combiner, does the crank battery get charged? Or do I need to connect the Battery Charger to both the Home and the Crank battery? Is there any problem doing that? Thank you!
No there is no problem with charging the batteries at the dock. The acr won’t hurt that . You can still charge both batteries as normal. Thanks for watching and commenting
Love your videos!! I have two starting batteries and I added a house battery and battery isolator so when my starting batteries were full it would charge the house battery. I also have a three position charger I use at the dock. I noticed my house battery getting extremely hot and I could hear the water boiling inside the battery. My question is when the starting batteries are full is the isolator going to dump charge into a fully charged house battery creating an overcharged condition. Is this possible? Thanks!!
Question for you if you run the isolator wires back to the battery switches for battery 1 and 2 would it smart charge the batteries or should i run wire from the isolator directly to the batteries
You could connect them to the #1 side and #2 side of the switch.. it would basically be the same as hooking them up directly.. but I just did it how they show it in the directions .. also was able to not have to take my switch apart.. but I will work the same either way.
I have a question. Mine came with a negative lead, as well. Everything is the same except...it came with a negative lead. The instructions weren't too great for the brand I got. Does a negative line need to connect the negatives on the batteries or anything?
If I want can I wire the main motor and the kicker motor to the isolator then to one of my trolling motor batteries? I use the kicker for propulsion and the trolling motor for steering. While out camping from the boat in norrn idahos priest lake no place to plug in to charge the trolling batteries. Awesome videos, great job!
I have Volvo penta Gxi 5.0 liter . Can I use this Seadog on mine ??? I was also looking at the Bluesea ACR but if this sea dog will work it appears to be an easier install I think . I haven’t seeen any videos of anyone installing the Blue sea one on my type of set up .
I dont have power at my dock for a battery maintainer. I was thinking of installing a solar panel charger for a single battery and a gizmo from XANTREX called a Digital Echo Charge Battery Charger to send surplus power from the full battery to the second battery. Could I use one of these in combination with a battery isolator for when I am underway? Trying to come up with a dual battery solar charging option for shore and an auto switching solution when the boat is running. Or does that make no sense?
great video! i had a question about wiring my twin suzuki 140's. my plan is to wire both engines to 1 cranking battery and have another battery for my electronics. should i put each engine on a separate battery? i was also going to split the load between the batteries to run my electronics. any better ideas?
So I have a duel battery switch the power comes from the cranking battery which is coming from the engine charging system.. it then will take the charge and switch it to the house battery when the crank is at 13.2v but keep lbs the batteries isolated from each other.. when the crank goes below 12.8 the charge of the house is stopped and the crank is only being charged again.. hopefully that makes sense.. let me know if you have any questions.. thanks for watching and commenting
Reel Life I just noticed something i just installed my isolator and when I plug in my on board dual bank charger it powers up that smart isolator and it gets pretty warm is that normal? could you check on yours?i am worried that something is wrong i don`t wont to cause a fire everything seems to be wired right.
If my boat has a battery compartment in the bow, can I run the pos. and neg cables for the isolator the length of the boat to charge house battery off crank battery in the back of the boa?. What size wire would you suggest if the distance is approx. 20 ft?
Hey really love your videos and the way you take the time to explain everything. Like your battery wiring demonstration do you have a diagram of how the battery isolator is installed sometimes hard to see what you are doing. I have two start batteries in parallel and one house battery running to a battery switch. Can you show me how the wires are supposed to run. I would like to install the isolator for this set up. Thanks Richo
Do i still need a dual battery switch. Im going to be adding a house battery and the dual battery switch was something the dealer said i would need, he did not know a whole lot about the dual battery isolator.
So if you want to be able to run everything and start from either battery then you need a switch like the one I have.. if you want everything running off the house battery and only the engine on the crank battery.. you can use just the isolator.. or an add a battery kit from blue sea systems.. thanks for watching and let me know if you have any questions..
I have a bow battery for just my trolling motor (deep cycle) and another crank battery (dual purpose) on the starboard side at the stern. When the batteries are side by side this appears to be pretty simple but when 16ft separate the two it seems to be a pain in the butt. Any suggestions? I'd like to have this set up but to run wires on my boat is a pain. 2001 Key Largo 160cc
I have an E-Tech motor and it has a wire run so both batteries charge. I'm not sure exactly how this system works in charging both batteries. If I install an isolator do I need to remove the E-Tech wire or will this isolator bypass it? Thanks in advance
I leave it on battery 1 unless I’m anchored for a while running my Electronics.. but My house battery is getting a charge when running the motor and it monitors the charge on the crank battery and will top it off if needed.. thanks for watching the channel.. let me know if you have any questions..
I love your vids. Clear, simple and really helpfull. I have a question for you. I am Restoring an old Grumman boat and redoing everything. I have a switch wich includes that Isolator. On top of the house battery could I also connect my trolling motor battery? And if would I need to run additional wireing from the #2 connector to the motor batteries? Thank you.
This actually works wile running the main motor while on the water.. keeping a charge going to both batteries.. let me know if you have any questions thanks for watching
13.2 to 12.8 how long does that relay last opening and closing that frequently? Also just curious on your thoughts about when to use heat shrink? I’m in habit of using it on anything “mission critical” and below waterline. Also enjoy your videos. You do nice work. Trying to get my wire running skills up to par with you. Just installed two downrigger plugs today on a robalo.
I’m not sure how long it will last.. I haven’t had hardly any problems with them.. I’m sure you can get a faulty one every now and then.. but I haven’t seen one I’ve installed go bad.. it’s always a good idea to use heat shrink.. but not always Necessary ..definitely below the water line or where ever it could make contact and ground out or where wires would get a lot of action or get pulled by on or moved around.. thanks for watching and commenting!
Can I use a deep cycle battery for a cranking battery? My Yamaha 90 hp outboard, I believe needs 335 cranking amps. I believe that the deep cycle battery has a max of 660 cold cranking amp‘s. I’d also want a dual battery set up and the other battery would be a class 27 deep cycle.
You could get away with using a deep cycle if it has enough cranking amps .. but they do not charge up as quickly as a actual crank battery.. I like to use each battery for it’s intended purpose.. thanks for watching and commenting.. let me know if you have any questions
This is an automatic switch, so if the voltage is getting low in one battery the ACR will automatically charge that battery instead of having to manually turn a selector switch. This is a nice feature, but make sure you have a voltage gauge on the boat in case the ACR goes bad.
@@mrleeparker4044 yea I understand what it does. But with there only being 1 wire going to each battery how does it switch from 1 battery to the other without charging both at the same time??
@@blindabinda1234 When not using an ACR you need to monitor your voltage in battery on the house or start battery and switch the selector switch to one or two.
@@blindabinda1234 Don't you love it when you ask a question and you get answer to a totally different question...twice! I believe battery #2 gets a "feed through" charge anytime there is a charging current present AND battery 1 is up to 13.2V. It will continue to charge #2 until it's full, #1 drops to 12.8V, or the charging current stops. Upon restart it will first recharge #1 back up to 13.2V, and then open the "gate" once again to the second battery. So I don't think it charges #2 separately, just opens the "gate" and lets the juice flow through to #2, after #1 reaches a full charge. Would work with charging current from the motor or a charger, as long as the charger is hooked up to battery #1.
running your switch in 1 and 2 does the same thing when your motor is running. Once you turn you motor off and are on anchor, etc, turn your switch to number 2 position so you are drawing off the house battery and not the starter.
Thank you!!! I spent last 6 months figuring out what to do and after your two videos finally everything make sense!
Awesome! Glad the videos helped you out! Thanks for watching and commenting I appreciate it!
Bro, you’re a bad ass brother thank you I swear I’ve watched so many freaking videos and goddamn they’re just not explicit playing simple to explain and understand and Gali you’re right to the point you explain it very well. Really appreciate it man. I’m glad I found your brother. Thank you.
i have been auto electric since the 70's a certified mechanic,,,,,your videos are really good!
Thank you I really appreciate it! Thanks for watching and commenting! Always nice getting positive feedback!
I looked at the instructions and circuit diagram for the Sea Dog. It appears to me that an alternator or a charger voltage greater than 13.3 VDC connects the batteries together. But when the batteries are not charging, the engine is not running or you are not plugged into a charger, the switch opens and the batteries are isolated from each other. That's a cool idea. That way you don't run down the cranking battery. Of course that means all the loads except the starter and engine circuits need to removed from the cranking battery.
Is there any reason with this isolator to use a manual battery selector?
@@TheJwertz I went back and looked concerned that without a manual switch, the cranking battery loads would be isolated from the other boat battery if the cranking battery failed. I see an "over ride wire" shown on the Sea Dog web site for the part 422790-1. I can assume that makes the connection between the batteries if no charging voltage is present. I don't know if you can crank a boat starter through the switch. I don't know what the current ratings are. Sorry, I can't say if a manual switch is not needed absolutely for all possibilities. I really think the Sea Dog isolator is about charging both batteries when running or on a charger, not about paralleling loads should one battery fail.
Will the isolator work the same charging the house battery when at home with shore power battery charger on the starting battery. What I'm getting to is I'm assuming I only need a single battery -battery charger.
Looking forward to the next wiring video as we’re about to rewire our boat next week. Got to be ready for April and opening ocean fishing!
Awesome! Thanks ive been thinking about doing it for a while now.. let me know if you have any questions.. thanks for watching
I can't wait for that wiring video to drop, I'm going to attempt that on my 12ft jon boat. Need to do nav lights, headlights, deck lights, bilge and fish finder.
I'm going to install some led lights on my boat soon , I was wondering if they make terminals for those super ruby led wires or what's the best way to connect them other than soldering them together?
Great video, great information . Much appreciated.
Great video! After installing this what position should I keep the battery switch while I’m running the boat...1, 2 or all. Sorry if I missed that part.
It doesn’t matter it will keep both batteries charged as long as the crank battery if full.. I would keep it on battery #1 the crank until you need to switch to battery #2 if you’re going to be sitting somewhere with Accessories running and your engine off.. thanks for watching and commenting
I order one from the link you gave for Amazon. Mine came with a yellow override wire that does not seem to Connect to anything The description on the back of the packaging is a bit confusing. 🤔
I emailed the company and they got back to me...the yellow line is an option to set up a override switch.
Great video, just one question i think i missed. once you connect the isolator, which position do you leave your battery switch in while running? starting position (1) or both? thanks in advance
Thanks ! So you just have to leave it in position one and it will keep the other battery charged.. that way when you switch to battery 2 it’s already charged up . Thanks for watching
Just had that done to my boat, works great. Great idea with doing a video on wiring a boat on the plywood, that will make it easyer to understang for a novice like me.
Awesome it’s a great upgrade! Hopefully that video will turn out as good as I have planned in my head.. lol thanks for watching and commenting always appreciated!
Great videos, my question is if I have a two channel battery charger will this isolator interfere with the charging of both batteries on 110v? I like having the charging ability while running the boat but I’m concerned about when I get home and plug it in. Thanks.
Always enjoy your videos! Very informative
question, i am adding one to my boat and the i have a Battery Maintainer as well. The question is with the maintainer plugged up at home and charging the batteries going to interfere with the isolator? example, start battery doesn't need as much charging as the house, the maintainer gets the start battery full the isolator kicks over to house with the maintainer charging as well. didnt want to throw a spike or something of that nature, so checking :)
Hey quick question where do you run your kicker motor power cables to when adding a add a battery kit?
Hey I really enjoy your channel!! I have two questions. I am assuming this would be okay if you are using a ground jumper on the battery’s? Also, is there any need for fuse protection going to and from the isolator? Thank you again for your awesome videos!
Is the isolator wired in after the switch or before?
In my last boat I installed the blue sea add a battery kit. I’m in the market for a new boat and will look into this acr as an option. Thanks for sharing
They are both really good! This is just smaller and easier to install I think.. thanks for watching and commenting..
So this won't mess with the two bank charger that's connected to the batteries when the engine is off and it's plugged in at the dock right!?
Can you run two of these off the crank battery one to the house and one to a trolling motor set up? Going to add one to my house battery for sure.. thanks
I would look into running a Minn kota alternator charger for the trolling motor batteries. And the ACR for the house battery. That was my set up on this boat. Thanks for watching
@@ReelLifeFisherman will do. Thanks for the reply. Appreciate it!
Great video. I like the wiring outside of the boat idea. Cant wait!
Awesome thanks! We will be working on that one soon
First and foremost, so glad I found your channel, great videos and explanations! Second, you mentioned ability to use an isolator without a switch. Would you be willing to do a very short wiring explanation vid of that?
Not including the crank battery. Could I run a group 27 deep cycle and group 31 deep cycle batteries in parallel or do they have to be the same group?
You said the ground connects to battery ground ?? I have a Volvo penta 5.0 having trouble identifying where my ground will go ?
Can you still run a dual bank charger on both batteries while having the isolator or does that mess things up?
Can you have an ATM crank battery and a Lithium house battery on one of these? They have slightly different voltage as I recall.
Good presentation, done in an informative and calming way.
Thanks I appreciate it! Glad it was helpful. And thanks for watching and commenting.
Great Video, I do need to find out how this works with a dual battery master switch in place as well as the battery isolator.
I have a duel battery switch on the boat.. this is the perfect way to keep both batteries charging while on the water .. but not running around with them on 1&2 which is bad for your engine charging system and the batteries themselves.. thanks for watching and commenting
If you shouldn't switch batteries while the motor is running how can you ever use the house battery? If your trolling you have to have the motor on constantly. So does they mean you use the crank battery for everything? If I want to switch to the house batter they mean I have to turn the motor off and then start it with the house battery... what am I missing?
My directions say connect the small ground wire to the house battery, not the start battery. And also shows running a ground wire between both battery’s. Did you run the wire between them?
Thanks for the vids. I have a 24v trolling motor setup. Can I run these chargers up to each of my trolling motor batteries from the start motor. I was looking at MinnKota's alternator, but my Honda 40h alternator is less than Minn Kota's recommended alternator output, so I was looking at this for an alternative...Or do you thing the Monn Kota alternator would work
Is the cutoff in the VSR lower that the cutoff power for the rectifier/regulator in the engine. This controls the power put back into the battery while the engine is running. If the engine battery is fully charged, excess power is shunted to ground so if the engine battery is fully charged, the VSR will never send power to the second battery. What am I missing?
It is look like Minnkota DC changer but cost less. Thank you for your Help!!!
This is a great idea. So I have a battery charger/tender on my boat for my trolling battery and crank battery so while it sits in the garage I charge the batteries just connecting the extension cord.. Would I still be able to use this isolator without any issues?
So if you have a 12 v trolling motor with one 12v battery for it would be fine.. you can only hook up your Crank battery and one other 12v battery! Let me know if you have any questions.. I also have a battery charger for mine . Thanks for watching
@@ReelLifeFisherman thanks. Ues thats what I have a 12v trolling motor and a 12v crank motor. My charger is a 2 bank 15amp charger. I will need to include this isolator into the set up as well. That way I can have more different convienance means of charging.
Now that you have the Isolator, do you run your battery Selector Switch on "ALL" as a general rule all the time while you are out? Would selecting "1" or "2" on the Selector Switch prevent the other batter not selected from being charged?
What type of screws are used to mount isolator, bus bars, fuse box, etc. The old busbars on my boat are drilled into interior fiberglass.
We always use stainless steel hardware.. thanks for watching the video and let me know if you have any questions
Can this be done to a dual 24v (2 - 12 v batteries in series) for a trolling motor batteries, saw the previous question but his was a simple 1- 12v battery.
No unfortunately not.. one of the 2 batteries it’s hooked to need to the the cranking battery.. I would get a 2 bank alternator charger from minn kota .. I have one on my boat and it works great! But you have to make sure your engine puts out enough charge.. usually anything 75hp and up is enough. Thanks for watching
Also is there a link to the wires and connectors you are using ?
Would this work on a lithium house battery?
I am getting a kicker for my trolling and unfortunately my lights, radio, graph etc all go to the main motor.... i am trying to figure out what kinda battery I should use for the kicker (AGM, SLA? crank? deep cycle?) and then I need to figure out is the main motor battery the house? I am worried that battery will drain from everything going there. while using the kicker. Any info/ help is much appreciated.
That is what I did will monitor to see if it charging the second battery when the voltage reaches the limit. Thanks for the tips. Keep on making stuff for us to see. Be safe
Thanks a lot for this video! Really helpful ;) 1 question though: If I have a Battery Charger (the one I use when I arrive at the dock) connected to the house battery and this battery is connected to the crank battery through a Battery Combiner, does the crank battery get charged? Or do I need to connect the Battery Charger to both the Home and the Crank battery? Is there any problem doing that? Thank you!
No there is no problem with charging the batteries at the dock. The acr won’t hurt that . You can still charge both batteries as normal. Thanks for watching and commenting
@@ReelLifeFisherman Thanks!
Love your videos!! I have two starting batteries and I added a house battery and battery isolator so when my starting batteries were full it would charge the house battery. I also have a three position charger I use at the dock. I noticed my house battery getting extremely hot and I could hear the water boiling inside the battery. My question is when the starting batteries are full is the isolator going to dump charge into a fully charged house battery creating an overcharged condition. Is this possible? Thanks!!
Great video thank you. Can't wait for your video on wiring a boat
Thanks! Hopefully it turns out good!
Hey mate I have a pull start outboard
If I have 2x deep cycle will this work?
Question for you if you run the isolator wires back to the battery switches for battery 1 and 2 would it smart charge the batteries or should i run wire from the isolator directly to the batteries
You could connect them to the #1 side and #2 side of the switch.. it would basically be the same as hooking them up directly.. but I just did it how they show it in the directions .. also was able to not have to take my switch apart.. but I will work the same either way.
Thanks for the videos. Can you put a battery isolator between a regular starting battery and a lithium house battery?
Thanks for Sharing 🙏is there no need to have a in-line water proof breaker?
do you have a video on one Lithium and on Lead battery setup?
I have a question. Mine came with a negative lead, as well. Everything is the same except...it came with a negative lead. The instructions weren't too great for the brand I got. Does a negative line need to connect the negatives on the batteries or anything?
If I want can I wire the main motor and the kicker motor to the isolator then to one of my trolling motor batteries? I use the kicker for propulsion and the trolling motor for steering. While out camping from the boat in norrn idahos priest lake no place to plug in to charge the trolling batteries. Awesome videos, great job!
I have Volvo penta Gxi 5.0 liter . Can I use this Seadog on mine ??? I was also looking at the Bluesea ACR but if this sea dog will work it appears to be an easier install I think . I haven’t seeen any videos of anyone installing the Blue sea one on my type of set up .
do u have a DC to dc charger for the deep cycle? they need a different charging profile in order to have the longest life
I dont have power at my dock for a battery maintainer. I was thinking of installing a solar panel charger for a single battery and a gizmo from XANTREX called a Digital Echo Charge Battery Charger to send surplus power from the full battery to the second battery. Could I use one of these in combination with a battery isolator for when I am underway? Trying to come up with a dual battery solar charging option for shore and an auto switching solution when the boat is running. Or does that make no sense?
At what amperage does the motor charge the starting battery?
Great video. Question if I have a switch and battery isolator should I leave the switch in 1 and 2 so battery’s can charge with the isolator?
Can you run this for the two trolling 24 volt optima batteries at the front of my boat?
Can you connect it to crank battery and to trolling motor batteries?
great video! i had a question about wiring my twin suzuki 140's. my plan is to wire both engines to 1 cranking battery and have another battery for my electronics. should i put each engine on a separate battery? i was also going to split the load between the batteries to run my electronics. any better ideas?
How did you attach the dual switch with the isolator? What wire did you use to supply power to the isolator? Is it coming from the battery switch?
So I have a duel battery switch the power comes from the cranking battery which is coming from the engine charging system.. it then will take the charge and switch it to the house battery when the crank is at 13.2v but keep lbs the batteries isolated from each other.. when the crank goes below 12.8 the charge of the house is stopped and the crank is only being charged again.. hopefully that makes sense.. let me know if you have any questions.. thanks for watching and commenting
Would you use this for a crank and trolling battery setup or is that Minn Kota alternator charger better for that application
If it’s for a 12v trolling motor battery only then you could definitely do it
@@ReelLifeFisherman jumping on this question.. so you can’t do this for a 24v trolling setup because it has to be 12v to 12v? Thanks!
So it is just positive to positive and any ground?
There is a small ground wire off the acr that goes to the crank battery . Thanks for watching
Great how to! Question for you...is it practical to have both the battery switch and the isolator installed with dual batteries? Thanks so much!
Reel Life I just noticed something i just installed my isolator and when I plug in my on board dual bank charger
it powers up that smart isolator and it gets pretty warm is that normal? could you check on yours?i am worried that something is wrong i don`t wont to cause a fire everything seems to be wired right.
If my boat has a battery compartment in the bow, can I run the pos. and neg cables for the isolator the length of the boat to charge house battery off crank battery in the back of the boa?. What size wire would you suggest if the distance is approx. 20 ft?
Hey really love your videos and the way you take the time to explain everything. Like your battery wiring demonstration do you have a diagram of how the battery isolator is installed sometimes hard to see what you are doing. I have two start batteries in parallel and one house battery running to a battery switch. Can you show me how the wires are supposed to run. I would like to install the isolator for this set up. Thanks Richo
If your running multiple house batteries, do you have to have an isolator for each one?
Do i still need a dual battery switch. Im going to be adding a house battery and the dual battery switch was something the dealer said i would need, he did not know a whole lot about the dual battery isolator.
So if you want to be able to run everything and start from either battery then you need a switch like the one I have.. if you want everything running off the house battery and only the engine on the crank battery.. you can use just the isolator.. or an add a battery kit from blue sea systems.. thanks for watching and let me know if you have any questions..
I have a bow battery for just my trolling motor (deep cycle) and another crank battery (dual purpose) on the starboard side at the stern. When the batteries are side by side this appears to be pretty simple but when 16ft separate the two it seems to be a pain in the butt. Any suggestions? I'd like to have this set up but to run wires on my boat is a pain. 2001 Key Largo 160cc
Would it be possible to run an inverter to plug in LED lights with this setup? And if so do you have any advice on setting that up?
I have an E-Tech motor and it has a wire run so both batteries charge. I'm not sure exactly how this system works in charging both batteries. If I install an isolator do I need to remove the E-Tech wire or will this isolator bypass it? Thanks in advance
Hey man, appreciate your videos. So with the isolator installed you leave your switch set to both batteries?
I leave it on battery 1 unless I’m anchored for a while running my Electronics.. but My house battery is getting a charge when running the motor and it monitors the charge on the crank battery and will top it off if needed.. thanks for watching the channel.. let me know if you have any questions..
So if your are using an isolator you don’t need a switch? I bought both so is the switch needing to go back?
nice video... but what do i keep my battery selector switch on? 1 or 2 or ALL???
Keep it on 1 until you need to switch it to 2 when your not going to be running the main engine for awhile..
Super easy to understand thankyou my friend.
Awesome! Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching and commenting I appreciate it!
I love your vids. Clear, simple and really helpfull. I have a question for you. I am Restoring an old Grumman boat and redoing everything. I have a switch wich includes that Isolator. On top of the house battery could I also connect my trolling motor battery? And if would I need to run additional wireing from the #2 connector to the motor batteries? Thank you.
Does a trickle charger do that as well? What do you suggest?
This actually works wile running the main motor while on the water.. keeping a charge going to both batteries.. let me know if you have any questions thanks for watching
Pretty cool! That's a great idea for that next video.
Thanks! Glad you like the idea ! I’ve been thinking about doing it for a while now
Thanks ! It’s something I’ve been thinking about doing for a while now.. hopefully it comes out good
Do I need an isolator if I have a alternator charger
Another very well done video!!!
Thanks man I appreciate it!
13.2 to 12.8 how long does that relay last opening and closing that frequently? Also just curious on your thoughts about when to use heat shrink? I’m in habit of using it on anything “mission critical” and below waterline. Also enjoy your videos. You do nice work. Trying to get my wire running skills up to par with you. Just installed two downrigger plugs today on a robalo.
I’m not sure how long it will last.. I haven’t had hardly any problems with them.. I’m sure you can get a faulty one every now and then.. but I haven’t seen one I’ve installed go bad.. it’s always a good idea to use heat shrink.. but not always Necessary ..definitely below the water line or where ever it could make contact and ground out or where wires would get a lot of action or get pulled by on or moved around.. thanks for watching and commenting!
Another great video, patiently waiting for the Garmin Reactor install video!
Me too! Plan on ordering it Monday! Thanks for watching!
Can I use a deep cycle battery for a cranking battery? My Yamaha 90 hp outboard, I believe needs 335 cranking amps. I believe that the deep cycle battery has a max of 660 cold cranking amp‘s. I’d also want a dual battery set up and the other battery would be a class 27 deep cycle.
You could get away with using a deep cycle if it has enough cranking amps .. but they do not charge up as quickly as a actual crank battery.. I like to use each battery for it’s intended purpose.. thanks for watching and commenting.. let me know if you have any questions
Reel Life Fisherman Sounds good. I think I’ll take both 27 Deep Cycles back and go with the same setup you got here 27/31... Thanks!
Nice, I need to one off that on my boat
Yeah it’s nice to have for sure!
Do you need to add any in line fuses on the Sea Dog Isolator?
No you don’t, you can hook it up directly to the batteries like in the the video . Thanks for watching
Thanks for the info very easy to follow
Thanks glad it was helpful! And thanks for watching and commenting..
When using a battery charger on a boat that uses an isolator, will both batteries charge?
Yes you should have a battery charger with a bank for each battery.
My outboard doesn't have a alternator to charge my batteries does someone need that battery isolator
Cool thanks buddy 👍
Thanks man! Thanks for watching
NICE WORK THANK,S GUY!
I don't get how 1 wire going to each battery can decide where the charge goes without it charging both at the same time
This is an automatic switch, so if the voltage is getting low in one battery the ACR will automatically charge that battery instead of having to manually turn a selector switch. This is a nice feature, but make sure you have a voltage gauge on the boat in case the ACR goes bad.
@@mrleeparker4044 yea I understand what it does. But with there only being 1 wire going to each battery how does it switch from 1 battery to the other without charging both at the same time??
@@blindabinda1234 When not using an ACR you need to monitor your voltage in battery on the house or start battery and switch the selector switch to one or two.
@@blindabinda1234 Don't you love it when you ask a question and you get answer to a totally different question...twice! I believe battery #2 gets a "feed through" charge anytime there is a charging current present AND battery 1 is up to 13.2V. It will continue to charge #2 until it's full, #1 drops to 12.8V, or the charging current stops. Upon restart it will first recharge #1 back up to 13.2V, and then open the "gate" once again to the second battery. So I don't think it charges #2 separately, just opens the "gate" and lets the juice flow through to #2, after #1 reaches a full charge. Would work with charging current from the motor or a charger, as long as the charger is hooked up to battery #1.
It's awesome
Thanks for watching and commenting I appreciate it!
THUMBS-UP!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I just ordered one on Amazon and it was only 32 bucks!
running your switch in 1 and 2 does the same thing when your motor is running. Once you turn you motor off and are on anchor, etc, turn your switch to number 2 position so you are drawing off the house battery and not the starter.