Yes, but you only used 5S so your ability to output at 20V is pretty much 0....once you factor in voltage drop (if you're pulling any decent amount of current) you'll drop from 21.0V to 20.0V really quick. In my experience you need at least 20.3V for most of these buck PD boards needs at least a few hundred millivolts over the output. The BMS you chose is definitely a decent choice as its simple and not as problematic as Daly BMS's Very cool how you adapted an Arduino to create a simple display with some of the more important information. Cell voltage and then calculating SOC based on lowest cell voltage is pretty simple with cobalt based lithium ion since its discharge curve is pretty linear. Using the overall voltage of the pack isn't the best way to go since your BMS will cut off once the lowest cell hits the BMS low voltage cutoff. Shouldn't be a huge issue if your cells stay fairly well balanced but once you start to get some deviation you might find near the bottom of their discharge they will deviate even further. Low voltage cutoff on the 30Q is 2.50V....if you stop at 3.00V you're missing out on 10% or 15% of the capacity. I personally wouldn't use the 30Q but if that's what you had laying around for free then free is better than nothing....30Q definitely has some cycle life and capacity degradation issues that came from trying to squeeze 15A out of a 3000mAh cell. Since you're running it at a max of about 7-9 amps if both ports are outputting 65W it shouldn't be too much of an issue. It would be cool in the future if you could find the simplest way to measure voltage and current output at each port but I think thats going to involve working with the fast charge module you're using and not doing it externally with the Arduino I didn't realize that input board you used could do 5S charging which is pretty cool. I know there are some boards on Aliexpress for 2S/3S/4S charging. When you look at getting a spot welder keep one thing in mind. Spot welding is entirely dependent on your power source: using a TRULY HIGH C RATE LIPO (that "100C" rating bullshit is all nonsense) SUPERCAPACITORS (watch out for all the used caps on Aliexpress, you get what you pay for) OR A HIGH C RATE LIFEPO4 LIKE A123 OR HEADWAY. You can use the simplest $20 PCB so long as the mosfets on the board are 300A-500A mosfets and there are 6-10 of them. Then you also want to skip the stock 10AWG leads for attaching your power source to the board and your weld pens/electrodes. I use 2 AWG to connect my Headway or A123 batteries to the board and 6 AWG silicone wire for my welding pens. You can make electrodes out of solid copper wire but the proper alloy to use is actually an aluminum/copper alloy. It's all about having a package that has low IR...you're aiming for single digit IR from power source to electrodes...3-7 milliohms is usually ideal. A 16Ah/20Ah Headway/A123 battery does pretty good but when I tried to parallel 2 20Ah A123 batteries I blew the mosfets on one of my JQ-DHJ02B boards...definitely one of the better boards for the money right now if you don't want to DIY your own (There are Aliexpress listings for mosfet boards for 8/12/16/24 etc mosfets of your choice...I like the IRL40SC228...then you'd need a control board like the 7Y320 which is meant for supercaps...for supercaps I'd recommend 2S2P minimum if you buy used caps from Aliexpress...they sort them by internal resistance and then sell them accordingly so don't buy the cheapest 3000F 2.8V caps you can find) There are a bunch of bidirectional boards available on Aliexpress, I mostly use Feb 22 store. Makes life a lot easier and most of them are either buck only (so you'd want a 6S or 7S battery probably) but some like the IP2368 are buck boost and meant for 3S to 5S with 4S probably being the most common. A 4S2P pack of 5Ah 21700's makes one hell of a good sized powerbank and with most 5Ah 21700's having a 10A or 15A rating they can easily handle 200W worth of output if in 2P. Whatever you do avoid the SW2303 IP5501 boards, they are garbage. My channel has a couple videos (long and boring) that go over a lot of the options out there and what I think of them.
I was thinking about getting something smaller like that... I once borrowed a larger spot welder from a friend but it kept tripping my circuit breakers... The current spike was too high while turning it on. I also saw a bunch of battery powered welders online and I actually did use one of those before and it was quite good. They are around 50-60USD which is not bad
good Job , But, how is your battery balance holding?. As using permenant voltge dividers will ultimately debalance the battery cells, "yes you have a BMS that will balance the cells at the " but it is a passive balance, so if 1 battery is fully charged at 4.2 volts and another battery is at 4 volts and the charge current is still at lets say 250 mA(depends on how bad are the cells voltages are far apart, the bigger voltage difference the larger the current) the BMS will discharge the full battery at a current detemined by the discharge resistor "usually 100 mA", So the full battery is still being charged at 250 - 100 = 150 mA , when this battery reaches 4.25 volts the DW01-A protection IC will disconnect the whole pack from the charger/output, so you will have a battery at 4.1 volts (BMS keeps dischrging the full battery till 4.1 volts) and another at 4.05 volts, and this may worsen over time.
these chargers modules are cheap but they do not have good power quality, they have quite high ripple voltages around 250-300 mVp-p, the best way to reduce it is to solder a capacitor at the output aditional 220 or 470 uF do the trick and we get under 100mVp-p ripple when powered directly from 4s battery
I made the same, can you explain how to calibrate the voltage, i tried but the display always showing same voltage during charge and discharge, sure im doing some mistake. Kindly assist. Thanks in advance
Why are you using different kind of cells? Is this safe? I have almost all the parts laying around, except from the usb-c output//power delivery trigger boards. I've thought about building a 5s power bank for a while, but i am concerned about the quality of all this type-c boards. I've seen some horrors while browsing alliexpress, and i've even got some that completely disregard every protocol/handshake. are you confident enough to use them to charge phones and laptops?
You should never use different cells! Looks like a forgot to mention that. I did use same ones but in some shots I had different ones just to show what I'll be using. I've used this modules for quite some time now and I didn't have any problems. They do have a bit of noise but they work, I'm not sure how I could test them better. I drained the whole power bank from a 100% to 0 in a single use multiple times and the modules did get a bit hot but other than that, everything went right
There is a much simpler solution in the form of a module with IP2366. There is charging, protocols, display and real 130W. You don't have too much power on these modules. The cells are also too weak for power >100W...
Would it be hard to convert to us ac power instead of batteries. I hate how my multiport charger can not charger more than one device at fast charging.
yeah it's 3000mah, 63Wh, I said it's 15000 only in power bank terms since most of the power banks on the market use a single cell inside and the capacity is the first thing you see on the box.
It uses five 3000 mAh cells, so if they were connected in parallel like most other power banks then it would be 15000 mAh, however he connected them in series for a higher voltage output. Other manufacturers probably do this too. Since companies and people settled on using mAh as the unit for capacity it makes sense to just call this a 15000 mAh pack even though it isn’t because it stores the equivalent amount of energy. Watt hours is a much better unit since it isn’t dependant on voltage or even better would be to just use the proper unit which is Joules.
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Yes, but you only used 5S so your ability to output at 20V is pretty much 0....once you factor in voltage drop (if you're pulling any decent amount of current) you'll drop from 21.0V to 20.0V really quick. In my experience you need at least 20.3V for most of these buck PD boards needs at least a few hundred millivolts over the output.
The BMS you chose is definitely a decent choice as its simple and not as problematic as Daly BMS's
Very cool how you adapted an Arduino to create a simple display with some of the more important information. Cell voltage and then calculating SOC based on lowest cell voltage is pretty simple with cobalt based lithium ion since its discharge curve is pretty linear. Using the overall voltage of the pack isn't the best way to go since your BMS will cut off once the lowest cell hits the BMS low voltage cutoff. Shouldn't be a huge issue if your cells stay fairly well balanced but once you start to get some deviation you might find near the bottom of their discharge they will deviate even further. Low voltage cutoff on the 30Q is 2.50V....if you stop at 3.00V you're missing out on 10% or 15% of the capacity. I personally wouldn't use the 30Q but if that's what you had laying around for free then free is better than nothing....30Q definitely has some cycle life and capacity degradation issues that came from trying to squeeze 15A out of a 3000mAh cell. Since you're running it at a max of about 7-9 amps if both ports are outputting 65W it shouldn't be too much of an issue.
It would be cool in the future if you could find the simplest way to measure voltage and current output at each port but I think thats going to involve working with the fast charge module you're using and not doing it externally with the Arduino
I didn't realize that input board you used could do 5S charging which is pretty cool. I know there are some boards on Aliexpress for 2S/3S/4S charging.
When you look at getting a spot welder keep one thing in mind. Spot welding is entirely dependent on your power source: using a TRULY HIGH C RATE LIPO (that "100C" rating bullshit is all nonsense) SUPERCAPACITORS (watch out for all the used caps on Aliexpress, you get what you pay for) OR A HIGH C RATE LIFEPO4 LIKE A123 OR HEADWAY. You can use the simplest $20 PCB so long as the mosfets on the board are 300A-500A mosfets and there are 6-10 of them. Then you also want to skip the stock 10AWG leads for attaching your power source to the board and your weld pens/electrodes. I use 2 AWG to connect my Headway or A123 batteries to the board and 6 AWG silicone wire for my welding pens. You can make electrodes out of solid copper wire but the proper alloy to use is actually an aluminum/copper alloy. It's all about having a package that has low IR...you're aiming for single digit IR from power source to electrodes...3-7 milliohms is usually ideal. A 16Ah/20Ah Headway/A123 battery does pretty good but when I tried to parallel 2 20Ah A123 batteries I blew the mosfets on one of my JQ-DHJ02B boards...definitely one of the better boards for the money right now if you don't want to DIY your own (There are Aliexpress listings for mosfet boards for 8/12/16/24 etc mosfets of your choice...I like the IRL40SC228...then you'd need a control board like the 7Y320 which is meant for supercaps...for supercaps I'd recommend 2S2P minimum if you buy used caps from Aliexpress...they sort them by internal resistance and then sell them accordingly so don't buy the cheapest 3000F 2.8V caps you can find)
There are a bunch of bidirectional boards available on Aliexpress, I mostly use Feb 22 store. Makes life a lot easier and most of them are either buck only (so you'd want a 6S or 7S battery probably) but some like the IP2368 are buck boost and meant for 3S to 5S with 4S probably being the most common. A 4S2P pack of 5Ah 21700's makes one hell of a good sized powerbank and with most 5Ah 21700's having a 10A or 15A rating they can easily handle 200W worth of output if in 2P. Whatever you do avoid the SW2303 IP5501 boards, they are garbage. My channel has a couple videos (long and boring) that go over a lot of the options out there and what I think of them.
I have a kweld. It changed my life forever. I hope you'll be able to get one soon. You'll love it. Worth every penny.
I was thinking about getting something smaller like that... I once borrowed a larger spot welder from a friend but it kept tripping my circuit breakers... The current spike was too high while turning it on. I also saw a bunch of battery powered welders online and I actually did use one of those before and it was quite good. They are around 50-60USD which is not bad
good Job , But, how is your battery balance holding?. As using permenant voltge dividers will ultimately debalance the battery cells, "yes you have a BMS that will balance the cells at the " but it is a passive balance, so if 1 battery is fully charged at 4.2 volts and another battery is at 4 volts and the charge current is still at lets say 250 mA(depends on how bad are the cells voltages are far apart, the bigger voltage difference the larger the current) the BMS will discharge the full battery at a current detemined by the discharge resistor "usually 100 mA", So the full battery is still being charged at 250 - 100 = 150 mA , when this battery reaches 4.25 volts the DW01-A protection IC will disconnect the whole pack from the charger/output, so you will have a battery at 4.1 volts (BMS keeps dischrging the full battery till 4.1 volts) and another at 4.05 volts, and this may worsen over time.
Can you make a video showing the 100w in action?
Amazing work dude, as always. 💪
these chargers modules are cheap but they do not have good power quality, they have quite high ripple voltages around 250-300 mVp-p, the best way to reduce it is to solder a capacitor at the output aditional 220 or 470 uF do the trick and we get under 100mVp-p ripple when powered directly from 4s battery
the thing blurred at 1:34 looks suspicious lol also this video was really good, and the end product was amazing!
Haha, thanks! Looks suspicious indeed
Hello, This is great! Do you have schematics/diagrams for the wiring?
Pov using vape batteries for this is so cool
I made the same, can you explain how to calibrate the voltage, i tried but the display always showing same voltage during charge and discharge, sure im doing some mistake. Kindly assist. Thanks in advance
Why are you using different kind of cells? Is this safe?
I have almost all the parts laying around, except from the usb-c output//power delivery trigger boards. I've thought about building a 5s power bank for a while, but i am concerned about the quality of all this type-c boards. I've seen some horrors while browsing alliexpress, and i've even got some that completely disregard every protocol/handshake. are you confident enough to use them to charge phones and laptops?
You should never use different cells! Looks like a forgot to mention that. I did use same ones but in some shots I had different ones just to show what I'll be using. I've used this modules for quite some time now and I didn't have any problems. They do have a bit of noise but they work, I'm not sure how I could test them better. I drained the whole power bank from a 100% to 0 in a single use multiple times and the modules did get a bit hot but other than that, everything went right
There is a much simpler solution in the form of a module with IP2366. There is charging, protocols, display and real 130W. You don't have too much power on these modules. The cells are also too weak for power >100W...
Would it be hard to convert to us ac power instead of batteries. I hate how my multiport charger can not charger more than one device at fast charging.
For the AC on the input, it is totally doable. I may make a DIY multi port desk charger too
What happens if you charges the bank while it charges your notebook?
Great work
Ah sweet!!
Thanks!
@@Djambo57 You welcome!!
if the cells are connected in series that means only 3000 mah
yeah it's 3000mah, 63Wh, I said it's 15000 only in power bank terms since most of the power banks on the market use a single cell inside and the capacity is the first thing you see on the box.
@@Djambo57that's false advertising and it should be by the total Wats it outputs.
Bro everythings great but iv understood nothin cz of fast time nd i want to make same project but icant watch nd undertsand the video
What if I use each battery 3300mah ?
Circuit diagram link send please
Why you have a pew pew?!!!!!
there is no way this is 15000mah
It uses five 3000 mAh cells, so if they were connected in parallel like most other power banks then it would be 15000 mAh, however he connected them in series for a higher voltage output. Other manufacturers probably do this too. Since companies and people settled on using mAh as the unit for capacity it makes sense to just call this a 15000 mAh pack even though it isn’t because it stores the equivalent amount of energy. Watt hours is a much better unit since it isn’t dependant on voltage or even better would be to just use the proper unit which is Joules.
Manufacturers should use Wh instead of mah because that would be the same for paralel or series cells@@conorstewart2214
You could do this cheaper using just the bms, battery charger and charging module and to monitor the charging a led voltage meter
Yeah that would be the simpler way but I wanted to throw in some extras just for fun since I already had the parts