@@GRBtutorials I think it's a joke on the anglophonic advertisement adage “best thing since sliced bread”. Which I've never understood. How are people incapable of slicing their own bread? Sliced bread has a shorter shelflife.
I'm not joking, they do exist. Just search as "heatshrink kit" and there are variety of them to choose. And as being the parody of "sliced bread", well that was my intention too but pre-cut heatshrinks are really convenient to use for me.
I went into programming after high school / uni but have ever since felt like I need a small-electronics education too. It's kinda fun that you can get that almost for free on youtube these days! You the man!
LC Raz When you unplug the cable, there is a spike in voltage. This is due to the storage of energy in reactive elements of the circuit. An example would be an inductive load, when you unplug it the magnetic field rapidly breaks down and induces a high voltage. A TVS diode works by depending on the voltage to exceed its breakdown voltage. Essentially when the Spike exceeds the breakdown voltage of the diode, the diode will shunt to ground.
@FQD2N There is inductance everywhere, it might not be big, but it's there. Just because it's not on a cheap aliexpress board, doesn't mean it's not a good idea to have it. External interfaces (even USB connectors) should have some ESD protection minimum. TVSs are one way of doing that.
@FQD2N see this guide www.ti.com/lit/wp/slyy105/slyy105.pdf?ts=1592861588015 from TI. You can also checkout the datasheet for a reputable USB PD implementation like the stusb4500qtr chip which includes protection for this type of thing in the typical application example. The circuit designed in this video is a very naive implemenation
Thanks for making these DIY/Buy videos! I know it's always a bit disappointing when the outcome is buy, but it's very helpful that you did the work to figure that out and shared it with us all 😁
As things get more and more advanced/complex, buy will usually end up being the winner. And buy has been the only choice for mission-critical applications. But that has never stopped us from tinkering around, and its always a great learning experience. Just like your videos!
USB-A: Try to plug it in. Doesn't fit. Flip it over. Try to plug it in again. Still doesn't fit. Flip it over once more. Try to plug it in yet again. It fits. USB-C: Plug it in
I've had the idea of somehow probing the pins of the type c, imitate the signal and maybe some day design my own PD powerbank. This video made me think twice about that thought 😅
@@greatscottlab Andreas Spiess had also a simple Video about hacking quickcharge. He also had A link to a github Page. They used an arduino nano to trigger quickcharge (They only Used 4or 5 resistors to Use the arduino as a trigger. No other ic.)
Great video! There's actually an existing trigger IC which is the IP2721 that does all the work without the need for a microcontroller. There are currently two versions: one that can be either switched between 9V or 12V, and another between 15V and 20V by setting a select pin floating or high. If the pin is grounded, it will only output 5V
I can imagine how much effort you have put on the investigation etc. and put that all together into videos, I really appreciate it mate! Thanks, and keep up the good work!
Diy would be the preferred method though in instances where you already are using a microcontroller for something else and needed power negotiation (eg in something like a soldering station for a TS 100 iron). If you have a specific use case where going the diy route will reduce part count it could definitely be worth it.
It's amazing how much time we will spend on building something just to see if we can do it, regardless of how much easier it is to buy. I always enjoy learning, but it can get frustrating.
@@greatscottlab Yeah I was researching to make a single board design to power my dslr camera via usb-c PD. But after this I'm just going to combine two existing boards. That is as you concluded way easier.
In my opinion buying is the best option always, unless you can save a lot of money by DIY or unless it doesn’t exist what you want. But I’ve to admit it is very interesting and informative making things yourself
I understand that if you want to cycle power modes by pressing the button the buy option is the best, but if you work on a larger project that requires one specific power mode than I think the diy option would be better as you can program your gadget to request that one specific mode. Awesome video anyway, thank you 👍👍👍
If you want to inspect the USB PD protocol, I recommend the AVHzY CT-2. It's mainly used for triggering and measuring power draw (which it's fantastic for) but it'll also enumerate all the available power levels and connect to desktop software to show you all the messages going back and forth. Super handy, I used it for evaluating ~30 power banks. Also a minor nit: USB-PD isn't only for USB Type C. PD 1.0 works with micro-USB and type A/B. PD 2.0 is the main one you're a fan of I think, with the separate config channel on the Type C connector.
GreatScott! In case you didn't see, I edited my comment to add a little nitpick about PD and Type C. Don't want people to see your comment and think you're agreeing with something you didn't see.
What the... I was just researching this the last few days to convert some devices to accept USB-C. Edit: To clarify, I meant USB-C PD. I'm primarily looking for the power-source (above 5V3A), not the data transfer (but also looking for something which combines both)
Look for DIY perks USB-C conversion video, he has very simple explanation for non techy people. Combine his solution with basic electronics here, Thank me later 😀
@@sdffsdafdsfsdfsd I'm looking to convert devices which don't feature USB Power input. (Stuff that requires more than 5V or 15W). I'm also wondering if a board exists that accepts USB-C PD Power but also features USB data transfer to a device behind it. Haven't found anything like that so far.
I've just had the idea to use this as a fan driver (starting with 12v, then after the spin-up, reducing to 9v and 5v), and voilà, appears at the last scene :)
This is really a great video; thank you! I am planning to power a board with USB-C PD, and since the board power control is done with an ESP32 (which also allows OTA firmware updates and much more), it would be most convenient to buy an integrated solution, like CK224K. The issue there is, that it doesn't provide any status, so the only way to know if the triggering worked is to measure the voltage with an ADC input. It is not very convenient. Retargeting the PD software to ESP32 shouldn't be too difficult and gives much finer control. Plus, I can still use the D+/D- lines to reprogram the ESP32. In order of cost, I think the CK224K is about $0.60/pc @ 1000, and the FUSB302 is about $0.50/pc @ 1000. Then of course, there is the CYPD3177, but that one creeps closer towards $1/pc. I am still in doubt which part to use.
I love how you take things step by step while showing your challenges. You also admit when something is out of your knowledge base and i admire that. keep up the great work. Kindly support a brothers channel too guys.
Thank you so much as I am searching for similar guidelines so far. And occasionally your this video solve my mystery failed similar attempt before: I mixed up between CCs and SUBs pins of the very same USBC female connector you are using... Thanks a lot again! p.s. 0:52 PD would in fact not deliver any power at all, neither the most basic 5V, if your device does simply only connect to the VBUS and GND pins, i.e. connect a non-USB-C device with a USB PD sink via passive adapters. This is because while VSUB of other type-A based fast charging (as well as legacy USB) would always have at least 5V, a compliance USBC PD source would instead have no voltages (or so called "high impedance") until it detected something is connected, by detecting if either one CC pin is pulled down by the sink, which is pulled up by the source itself. As non-USB-C does not have CC pins as all it do not "power up" any PD sources.
Have a look at the Quickcharge 3 protocol. It's limited to 12V, but it can do any voltage from 5 to 12V and is much cheaper to implement (there is even Arduino library for it).
Hi, I recently tried the JLC PCB service because of your videos and turns out it's a great service. $2+Shipping for 5, 2 layer PCB's as advertised, and high quality PCB's, compared to those from Pentalogix wich usually cost at least $40 the piece for boards of the same sizes. Only issue is of course wait time but even if you pay another $20 for priority shipping would still be cheaper
Hey why not try out the quick charge trigger board, it only involves applying certain voltages to the USB data lines... Although it might give as much power as usb C , 12volts with 2 amps should be more than enough for many projects
I have an idea: DIY or buy a cheap desoldering gun? What's the cheapest desoldering gun you can get? I really need one before I rip apart asolutely every and all solder pads in the world trying to desolder large pin count components from lead free boards 😂 And what about one of those solderex automatic soldering irons; buy, or diy using a stepper motor and a 3d printer feeder mechanism? And great video as always, your content is always great.
Just starting out in PCB design. Hoping I can get to this point one day where I can make a bunch of my own projects/designs. Thanks for the inspiration.
Hello, do you have any video about or know how to recharge an internal battery for example 18650 while mantaining usb data conection with the device? Thank you:D
On the PD, your cable has to be the type (version) that can handle the higher voltage & amps. Danke schoen. Is it possible to take a 15V/3A laptop charger & replace the barrel type plug with a USB-C to charge a chromebook?
I wonder if there are host modules, where you can attach it to a let’s say 12V source and it outputs USB C PD at 5V/12V/15V/20V 60W at least? For using in diy powerbank projects and also those big power banks so called solar generators(creative naming though :))?
Thank you for this video. Yes the winner can be buy, but it worth making simple enough library like QC3 control to make projects with PD more affordable. Again thank you
Great video, just showes that custom silicon is there for a purpose. It is a similar thing with bus communication like i2c and 485/232. If you dont have a good reason to reinvent the wheel, just go to Goodyear.
I still remember the USB Song. I will try to translate it as good as possible: „1 carries voltage and 4 the ground, be careful to not switch around. For data it goes the other way round. Pin 2 is data minus and pin 3 data plus. Remember to never mix up host and device.“ It goes on with a second verse about the first bytes that are transmitted etc. it basically teaches the core principles of the USB 1.1 Standard. The third verse is about best practices and limitations. Lovely little children’s song.
I got shocked. I knew I knew this voice........the I saw it was you I watch a lot of your videos............but never seen you face............now I have Thank for the videos Grüß aus Dänemark 😅😂😅😂😅😂😅😂😅
I have one of these that even has a small lcd display on it that shows me the voltage I've selected as well as the current. It also has a USB-C Male and female connector and a female USB-A connector. I bought it as part of a set with a voltage/current meter to test my chargers and cables with, think I paid 18 euros in total and it also came with a Quick Charge trigger and some other bits. At these prices it's really hard to build something like this yourself.
The problem I have with the increasingly common USB-C PD trigger board is the risk of its stored voltage configuration being overwritten. Someone messing with the board might change it from asking for 12 volts to asking for 20, and whoops, project is fried. Plus having to remember to configure the board before attaching it to my project. Not to mention having to remember what color means what voltage, and how to make it remember the setting between power interruptions. I wonder if another chip like the FUSB301 could be made that attaches to an EEPROM or a resistor network or set of jumpers or something that would allow more reliable and self-evident configuration, plus avoid the need for a host microcontroller and custom software.
This is pretty much how I made a portable external monitor to carry with my laptop. An old 1080p laptop panel, cheap driver board, USB power bank and a 12v converter works well.
Hi, did you look into PPS which most power delivery supplys now have. If you could integrate that into your trigger Programm,, you could use every USB pd which is PPS capable for a powerful bench power supply alternative. Hope you see this!
After watching this video on power delivery function of type c usb, I think I have to say electronics a goodbye. This is way way more complicated for me to understand. I really salute the makers and developers of usb type c.
but how do you reduce the voltage? clicking the tactile button in this example means raising the potential. How do you decrease it? Also is the use of this USB type c in this example only for power delivery? not for anything else.
Hey! I designed a pcb that uses usb-c with the known 5.1ohm resistors on cc to gnd. so it has got the 5v power supply. I have some peripherals that need 12v. So I need a power delivery controller. -> In your example the switched power was not the power supply for the esp. how would that be combined?
I thought USB PD output can be programed in 20mV steps? Are there boards that provide access to this, so you can make any PD wall adapter into a programmable/tunable voltage source (maybe even with current limiting)? I've been wanting to combine PD negotiation with solar MPPT function so I can avoid using a large battery to buffer the energy from a solar panel to the charging device.
Everything about USB is way more complicated than it needs to be. That is what you get with something designed by a committee. And it has a fundamental design error. Although it is differential to give it noise immunity one of the signalling conditions makes both lines go the same way. The end result is noise can cause it to disconnect.
There are several trigger pcbs available but is there one that does the other end? Eg so you can do something like convert a PC power supply into a USB C PD "charger"? What do they put in car chargers?
I have a question about electronics. I know all the basics and what all the components do. I do not need a beginners course. The only resources I can find to learn more is just about pcb design and circuit board development. This is not what I want. I want to learn about how to incorporate all the components together to prototype a working circuit. If you have any suggestions that would be greatly appreciated.
Nice, great video as always. Random question: have you ever thought of using your skills to get into eurorack modular synthesis / electronic music? It would be nice to watch some content like that on your channel.
Wooow... I blew my pants off when i saw that voice and you face.. I assumed you were 50-60 yrs, with you nice polite voice.. Well, my bad.. thanks you the amazing videos through out the years..
I have a 12v air pump for car... I want to use it with a transformer... I do have one 12v 1,5 amp.. The pump is starting but when the pressure is growing.. The motor is dying... What should I do? 🤔🙄
@GreatScott! You did a lot of work to get this figured out so you deserve mad respect. Now that it's done, why recommend buying the commercial board over adding that chip to your designs? Most of your projects and ours will have an Arduino-compatible processor and an i2c bus. Am I missing something
I would consider using USB-C port in my project that uses USB interface, and I am considering using the FUSB302 or ST equivalent so I get the amperage I need from the buck-boost DC-DC converter based battery charger to juice up a parallel or serial setup of Lithium-ion cells on the board. So DIY is occasionally better than just buy the whole thing especially if you want the DIY electronic projects to be very compact.
Does the DIY or Buy version stores the previous stage? For eg, of I configure the output voltage to be 12V by pressing the push button, and then power down, will it start at 12V next time, or back to 5V? This feature will be much more suitable for permanent projects.
I have a router that is powered by ac to 12v dc adapter. I want to power my router using 12v solar battery. Should i connect it directly. I am confused with current. Will the router determines how much current it wants to use, because in cause of led we have to use current limiting resistor? Sorry for noob question.
@greatscott! Hey scot ! I jst wanna make a ups for my modem and router ,which needs 12v o.5 amo which was 6w for each...can u please suggest me the best heardware for this project.
I wanna run my ups on my powerbank.. So inst of 12v battery , i wanna use boost converter... For which i was thinking about less hours of routing and might damage my powerbank...!
@@chandrasekharguntupalli4079 That actually simplifies it a lot, as a power bank is essentially a UPS. There are 5V boost converter modules you can buy on amazon, even ones with USB inputs. So all you need to do is to connect a USB charger to the power bank's input, connect the boost converter to its output and connect the output of the boost converter to your router. The power bank will handle all the power switching on its own.
USB PD is the best thing since sliced heatshrinks. I've been using it on most of my projects and the convenience is real.
Wait, sliced heat shrinks? That exists?
@@GRBtutorials I think it's a joke on the anglophonic advertisement adage “best thing since sliced bread”. Which I've never understood. How are people incapable of slicing their own bread? Sliced bread has a shorter shelflife.
Well, it would be awsome if sliced heatshrink would exist. I always forget to put it on beforehand.
I'm not joking, they do exist. Just search as "heatshrink kit" and there are variety of them to choose. And as being the parody of "sliced bread", well that was my intention too but pre-cut heatshrinks are really convenient to use for me.
can you send schematic file of your USB_C pD? sandeep@sysargus.com
Even with „Buy“ as an outcome I think what you are doing is really worth it. I’m learning something new every video. Keep it going this way! 👍🏻
Thanks! Will do!
I went into programming after high school / uni but have ever since felt like I need a small-electronics education too. It's kinda fun that you can get that almost for free on youtube these days! You the man!
I suggest TVS diodes on those CC pins. You want to try avoid large transients on cable removals
Could you elaborate what would cause the large transients? And why diodes would help that
LC Raz When you unplug the cable, there is a spike in voltage. This is due to the storage of energy in reactive elements of the circuit. An example would be an inductive load, when you unplug it the magnetic field rapidly breaks down and induces a high voltage. A TVS diode works by depending on the voltage to exceed its breakdown voltage. Essentially when the Spike exceeds the breakdown voltage of the diode, the diode will shunt to ground.
@FQD2N There is inductance everywhere, it might not be big, but it's there. Just because it's not on a cheap aliexpress board, doesn't mean it's not a good idea to have it. External interfaces (even USB connectors) should have some ESD protection minimum. TVSs are one way of doing that.
LC Raz built-in transistors serve the same purpose.
@FQD2N see this guide www.ti.com/lit/wp/slyy105/slyy105.pdf?ts=1592861588015 from TI. You can also checkout the datasheet for a reputable USB PD implementation like the stusb4500qtr chip which includes protection for this type of thing in the typical application example. The circuit designed in this video is a very naive implemenation
Thanks for making these DIY/Buy videos! I know it's always a bit disappointing when the outcome is buy, but it's very helpful that you did the work to figure that out and shared it with us all 😁
As things get more and more advanced/complex, buy will usually end up being the winner. And buy has been the only choice for mission-critical applications.
But that has never stopped us from tinkering around, and its always a great learning experience. Just like your videos!
There is something strangely satisfying about plugging a cable into a USB-C port. Unlike USB-A/B, It just so...hassle free!
USB-A:
Try to plug it in.
Doesn't fit.
Flip it over.
Try to plug it in again.
Still doesn't fit.
Flip it over once more.
Try to plug it in yet again.
It fits.
USB-C:
Plug it in
I've had the idea of somehow probing the pins of the type c, imitate the signal and maybe some day design my own PD powerbank. This video made me think twice about that thought 😅
Yep,....not that simple😅
@@greatscottlab Andreas Spiess had also a simple Video about hacking quickcharge. He also had A link to a github Page. They used an arduino nano to trigger quickcharge (They only Used 4or 5 resistors to Use the arduino as a trigger. No other ic.)
@@Enderkruemel quickcharge is something different from usb-pd.
@Statiscube Patreon donors get early access.
@Statiscube hol up
Great video! There's actually an existing trigger IC which is the IP2721 that does all the work without the need for a microcontroller. There are currently two versions: one that can be either switched between 9V or 12V, and another between 15V and 20V by setting a select pin floating or high. If the pin is grounded, it will only output 5V
Nice one, when one knows which voltage to use. And also easier to solder by hand !
@@sporniket This is for a trigger board for devices. For the power supply/source, you'd need a PD compatible one.
Do you know if there's already a PD EPR (24/36/48V) version?
I'm watching your content for more than 3 years and I'm amazed how your channel evolved and how the quality of your materials raised. Keep it up!
I can imagine how much effort you have put on the investigation etc. and put that all together into videos, I really appreciate it mate! Thanks, and keep up the good work!
i just like how he explains it with the notes he takes
my question is what type of pen is that
stabilo fineliner
Stabilo Point 88
I'm just surprised that they haven't sponsored him yet.
Great Scott: [Opens new box of stabilo pens]
Me: ahhh new video time!
@@greatscottlab thanks
I remembered glancing at this video 3 years ago. Luckily I remembered it just the other day for a project. You saved me yet again
Making your own might be a waste of time, but your new understanding of the device is invaluable
Diy would be the preferred method though in instances where you already are using a microcontroller for something else and needed power negotiation (eg in something like a soldering station for a TS 100 iron). If you have a specific use case where going the diy route will reduce part count it could definitely be worth it.
This is QUAAALLLIITTYYY COOONNTTEEENNNNTTTTT;
Great content as always
Thanks :-)
Why is the content so high quality?
Of course, it is "Made in Germany" !!! :-)
@ so true :D
I made a PCB with STUSB4500 for my PD stuff and that IC works just great and is even simpler. It also comes with more security and features.
I've wanted to integrate USB Type C in a project and knowing the capabilities of power delivery has made life alot easier. Great video👌🏽
It's amazing how much time we will spend on building something just to see if we can do it, regardless of how much easier it is to buy. I always enjoy learning, but it can get frustrating.
This is exactly the project I was currently working on! This is absolutely perfect timing! Solved 90% of my questions. Thanks
That is what I was hoping for :-)
@@greatscottlab Yeah I was researching to make a single board design to power my dslr camera via usb-c PD. But after this I'm just going to combine two existing boards. That is as you concluded way easier.
ever since the reflow soldering video came out, I was wondering what this project would be! great video.
In my opinion buying is the best option always, unless you can save a lot of money by DIY or unless it doesn’t exist what you want. But I’ve to admit it is very interesting and informative making things yourself
I understand that if you want to cycle power modes by pressing the button the buy option is the best, but if you work on a larger project that requires one specific power mode than I think the diy option would be better as you can program your gadget to request that one specific mode.
Awesome video anyway, thank you 👍👍👍
Yeah that's true. Most applications don't require changing the voltage on the go
Very difficult project. Not easy to implement some of these protocols. Nice of the guy to help with the code. Great job !
If you want to inspect the USB PD protocol, I recommend the AVHzY CT-2. It's mainly used for triggering and measuring power draw (which it's fantastic for) but it'll also enumerate all the available power levels and connect to desktop software to show you all the messages going back and forth. Super handy, I used it for evaluating ~30 power banks. Also a minor nit: USB-PD isn't only for USB Type C. PD 1.0 works with micro-USB and type A/B. PD 2.0 is the main one you're a fan of I think, with the separate config channel on the Type C connector.
Thanks for the information
GreatScott! In case you didn't see, I edited my comment to add a little nitpick about PD and Type C. Don't want people to see your comment and think you're agreeing with something you didn't see.
What the... I was just researching this the last few days to convert some devices to accept USB-C. Edit: To clarify, I meant USB-C PD. I'm primarily looking for the power-source (above 5V3A), not the data transfer (but also looking for something which combines both)
i really want to do this to some devices too.
If just accept type c charge and data transfer i think he have other video for it
Look for DIY perks USB-C conversion video, he has very simple explanation for non techy people. Combine his solution with basic electronics here, Thank me later 😀
@@sdffsdafdsfsdfsd I'm looking to convert devices which don't feature USB Power input. (Stuff that requires more than 5V or 15W). I'm also wondering if a board exists that accepts USB-C PD Power but also features USB data transfer to a device behind it. Haven't found anything like that so far.
@@NorthcodeNoCh I think you would need to DIY a passthrough board which includes D± and a 5V regulator.
i addicted to watching your videos
I've just had the idea to use this as a fan driver (starting with 12v, then after the spin-up, reducing to 9v and 5v), and voilà, appears at the last scene :)
The second IC on commercial is FUSB302B, and ST also had own USB-C PD controller - STUSB4700
You mean 4500. The 4700 is source, not sink.
@@oraszuletik yeah, and this too
It's so useful now my home made project can be use a power bank instead of mains voltage. Good job. Keep it up.
Great 👍
DIY is not the winner but global knowledge improved a lot with this video
This is really a great video; thank you! I am planning to power a board with USB-C PD, and since the board power control is done with an ESP32 (which also allows OTA firmware updates and much more), it would be most convenient to buy an integrated solution, like CK224K. The issue there is, that it doesn't provide any status, so the only way to know if the triggering worked is to measure the voltage with an ADC input. It is not very convenient. Retargeting the PD software to ESP32 shouldn't be too difficult and gives much finer control. Plus, I can still use the D+/D- lines to reprogram the ESP32. In order of cost, I think the CK224K is about $0.60/pc @ 1000, and the FUSB302 is about $0.50/pc @ 1000. Then of course, there is the CYPD3177, but that one creeps closer towards $1/pc. I am still in doubt which part to use.
now im reaaallly interrested in what makes usb-pd tick!
Well, you only have 600 pages to read!
@@YonatanAvhar quarantine time *dabs*
OMG How did I not know about USB-C PD? I'm super frustrated with myself right now, but very happy with you!
Dear GreatScott, you are really amazing & you will not believe that you inspired me to do a lot of stuff in engineering. Good luck keep growing
USB C is amazing, and PD is by far the best feature. I do wish that it was a bit simpler for DIY enthusiasts to actually implement for themselves.
Great Scott! that's what we call a metric shit-ton amount of work. thanks for illuminating on the sheer complexity of USB-C power management.
I love how you take things step by step while showing your challenges. You also admit when something is out of your knowledge base and i admire that. keep up the great work. Kindly support a brothers channel too guys.
Thank you so much as I am searching for similar guidelines so far. And occasionally your this video solve my mystery failed similar attempt before: I mixed up between CCs and SUBs pins of the very same USBC female connector you are using... Thanks a lot again!
p.s. 0:52 PD would in fact not deliver any power at all, neither the most basic 5V, if your device does simply only connect to the VBUS and GND pins, i.e. connect a non-USB-C device with a USB PD sink via passive adapters. This is because while VSUB of other type-A based fast charging (as well as legacy USB) would always have at least 5V, a compliance USBC PD source would instead have no voltages (or so called "high impedance") until it detected something is connected, by detecting if either one CC pin is pulled down by the sink, which is pulled up by the source itself. As non-USB-C does not have CC pins as all it do not "power up" any PD sources.
Have a look at the Quickcharge 3 protocol. It's limited to 12V, but it can do any voltage from 5 to 12V and is much cheaper to implement (there is even Arduino library for it).
Hi, I recently tried the JLC PCB service because of your videos and turns out it's a great service. $2+Shipping for 5, 2 layer PCB's as advertised, and high quality PCB's, compared to those from Pentalogix wich usually cost at least $40 the piece for boards of the same sizes. Only issue is of course wait time but even if you pay another $20 for priority shipping would still be cheaper
1:29 you put a smile on my face 😍
🤨 wut
Man, you've been around for a long time. First video I watched was you assembling a 3d printer I think
I'm glad that the negotiation process is complicated, you wouldn't want a crashed USB controller to fooling it into giving out 20V in the USB port
Hey why not try out the quick charge trigger board, it only involves applying certain voltages to the USB data lines... Although it might give as much power as usb C , 12volts with 2 amps should be more than enough for many projects
Excellent project 👍 I liked it
I have an idea: DIY or buy a cheap desoldering gun? What's the cheapest desoldering gun you can get? I really need one before I rip apart asolutely every and all solder pads in the world trying to desolder large pin count components from lead free boards 😂
And what about one of those solderex automatic soldering irons; buy, or diy using a stepper motor and a 3d printer feeder mechanism? And great video as always, your content is always great.
Just starting out in PCB design. Hoping I can get to this point one day where I can make a bunch of my own projects/designs. Thanks for the inspiration.
Hello, do you have any video about or know how to recharge an internal battery for example 18650 while mantaining usb data conection with the device? Thank you:D
On the PD, your cable has to be the type (version) that can handle the higher voltage & amps. Danke schoen. Is it possible to take a 15V/3A laptop charger & replace the barrel type plug with a USB-C to charge a chromebook?
I wonder if there are host modules, where you can attach it to a let’s say 12V source and it outputs USB C PD at 5V/12V/15V/20V 60W at least? For using in diy powerbank projects and also those big power banks so called solar generators(creative naming though :))?
Thank you for this video.
Yes the winner can be buy, but it worth making simple enough library like QC3 control to make projects with PD more affordable. Again thank you
Great video, just showes that custom silicon is there for a purpose. It is a similar thing with bus communication like i2c and 485/232. If you dont have a good reason to reinvent the wheel, just go to Goodyear.
Really nice @Greatscott .....we are your fans....keep it up....looking for more such videos
I recently had to make a small usb 1.0 HID implementation to create a virtual joystick and oh boy, usb is hard
That sound nice, do you have a video? Or any documentation it would be nice to learn such thing for diy home joystiking :-9
That’s why you learn it in elementary school in Germany
I still remember the USB Song. I will try to translate it as good as possible:
„1 carries voltage and 4 the ground, be careful to not switch around.
For data it goes the other way round. Pin 2 is data minus and pin 3 data plus.
Remember to never mix up host and device.“
It goes on with a second verse about the first bytes that are transmitted etc. it basically teaches the core principles of the USB 1.1 Standard. The third verse is about best practices and limitations. Lovely little children’s song.
@@WurstPeterl You learn about USB in elementary school? The only thing we learned was how to use MS paint... welcome to Czech Republic lmao
USB is great in principle, but 600+ pages just to document power? 🤮 What a design-by-committee mess!!!
5:23 ElectroBOOM: Don't do that, bro!
dont get it
@@m4gg197 He is too close to that powered up circuit with that metal conductive screwdriver
@@sziluchannel yeah but its only powered with 5-20 v on 5 amps. thats not dangerous is it?
@@m4gg197 Not dangerous, but he still can ruin his circuit with that screwdriver, as ElectroBOOM does always.
Szilu Channel now l get it 😅
I got shocked.
I knew I knew this voice........the I saw it was you
I watch a lot of your videos............but never seen you face............now I have
Thank for the videos
Grüß aus Dänemark 😅😂😅😂😅😂😅😂😅
I have one of these that even has a small lcd display on it that shows me the voltage I've selected as well as the current. It also has a USB-C Male and female connector and a female USB-A connector. I bought it as part of a set with a voltage/current meter to test my chargers and cables with, think I paid 18 euros in total and it also came with a Quick Charge trigger and some other bits. At these prices it's really hard to build something like this yourself.
Sir your subscriber from India. #staysafe
Can you make an ultrasonic fabric welder for welding ear loops of surgical masks? A much needed project these days. Thanks in advance
Somebody lost weight. Good on you Scott!
Thank :-)
The problem I have with the increasingly common USB-C PD trigger board is the risk of its stored voltage configuration being overwritten. Someone messing with the board might change it from asking for 12 volts to asking for 20, and whoops, project is fried. Plus having to remember to configure the board before attaching it to my project. Not to mention having to remember what color means what voltage, and how to make it remember the setting between power interruptions.
I wonder if another chip like the FUSB301 could be made that attaches to an EEPROM or a resistor network or set of jumpers or something that would allow more reliable and self-evident configuration, plus avoid the need for a host microcontroller and custom software.
lmao its my 1st time listening on headphones and i just realised how bass boosted the intro is xD
This is pretty much how I made a portable external monitor to carry with my laptop. An old 1080p laptop panel, cheap driver board, USB power bank and a 12v converter works well.
Hi,
did you look into PPS which most power delivery supplys now have. If you could integrate that into your trigger Programm,, you could use every USB pd which is PPS capable for a powerful bench power supply alternative.
Hope you see this!
So that tiny board with the STM32 and mystery IC is doing all that work?
After watching this video on power delivery function of type c usb, I think I have to say electronics a goodbye.
This is way way more complicated for me to understand. I really salute the makers and developers of usb type c.
but how do you reduce the voltage? clicking the tactile button in this example means raising the potential. How do you decrease it? Also is the use of this USB type c in this example only for power delivery? not for anything else.
Hey!
I designed a pcb that uses usb-c with the known 5.1ohm resistors on cc to gnd. so it has got the 5v power supply.
I have some peripherals that need 12v. So I need a power delivery controller.
-> In your example the switched power was not the power supply for the esp. how would that be combined?
I thought USB PD output can be programed in 20mV steps? Are there boards that provide access to this, so you can make any PD wall adapter into a programmable/tunable voltage source (maybe even with current limiting)?
I've been wanting to combine PD negotiation with solar MPPT function so I can avoid using a large battery to buffer the energy from a solar panel to the charging device.
Has anyone ever said that your accent is strange? Good videos and luck for subtitles. Thank you.
he's german, so... pretty decent
Everything about USB is way more complicated than it needs to be. That is what you get with something designed by a committee. And it has a fundamental design error. Although it is differential to give it noise immunity one of the signalling conditions makes both lines go the same way. The end result is noise can cause it to disconnect.
There are several trigger pcbs available but is there one that does the other end? Eg so you can do something like convert a PC power supply into a USB C PD "charger"? What do they put in car chargers?
You are doing Great...love you
Was für ein großartiges Projekt .. Prima!!!
I have a question about electronics. I know all the basics and what all the components do. I do not need a beginners course. The only resources I can find to learn more is just about pcb design and circuit board development. This is not what I want. I want to learn about how to incorporate all the components together to prototype a working circuit. If you have any suggestions that would be greatly appreciated.
even the buy wins this video is very interesting
Weren't the BMC signals supposed to be digital? Why does it have those voltage fluctuations (non-standard voltage values) in the CC lines?
Nice, great video as always. Random question: have you ever thought of using your skills to get into eurorack modular synthesis / electronic music? It would be nice to watch some content like that on your channel.
Maybe one day!
Wooow... I blew my pants off when i saw that voice and you face.. I assumed you were 50-60 yrs, with you nice polite voice.. Well, my bad.. thanks you the amazing videos through out the years..
Ehmagherd, your face!
It is good to finally see you ^_^
I have a 12v air pump for car... I want to use it with a transformer... I do have one 12v 1,5 amp.. The pump is starting but when the pressure is growing.. The motor is dying... What should I do? 🤔🙄
@GreatScott! You did a lot of work to get this figured out so you deserve mad respect. Now that it's done, why recommend buying the commercial board over adding that chip to your designs? Most of your projects and ours will have an Arduino-compatible processor and an i2c bus. Am I missing something
Thanks, great video. Please consider making a voltage / current programmable PSU using the new usbc PD PPS standard.
Why is his voice so soothing?
Is it the accent? Tone? A combination?!
Would you make a video about how to communicate with a canopen device using a teensy
I would consider using USB-C port in my project that uses USB interface, and I am considering using the FUSB302 or ST equivalent so I get the amperage I need from the buck-boost DC-DC converter based battery charger to juice up a parallel or serial setup of Lithium-ion cells on the board. So DIY is occasionally better than just buy the whole thing especially if you want the DIY electronic projects to be very compact.
THANK YOU FOR SUCH A QUALITY CONTENT!😃
Glad you enjoy it!
have you check out the CH224 chip ? seams to be all you need.
Can you make a video about Battery Resistance Meter?
Does the DIY or Buy version stores the previous stage? For eg, of I configure the output voltage to be 12V by pressing the push button, and then power down, will it start at 12V next time, or back to 5V? This feature will be much more suitable for permanent projects.
Could you do a video or instructable that dumbs down the USB PD algorithm? I'm really interested in building a few projects around it...
No. Sorry.
@@greatscottlab Ok, it's a lot to ask anyways. Thanks for the prompt reply. I really like your videos.
Calvin Rohan Raj Just read the official specification. It’s not that hard to understand. It’s just a lot to understand.
@@WurstPeterl Ok, cool.
Your explanation is very helpful
Glad it was helpful!
Quick question: What programm do you use to design your gerber files?
Easyeda
Finally something knowledgeable on TH-cam after this quarantine period
Love this series, appreciate you man!
Hey can i use lm2596 instead of lm 2576 in my buck converter?
will it make a difference
I have a router that is powered by ac to 12v dc adapter. I want to power my router using 12v solar battery. Should i connect it directly. I am confused with current. Will the router determines how much current it wants to use, because in cause of led we have to use current limiting resistor? Sorry for noob question.
@greatscott! Hey scot ! I jst wanna make a ups for my modem and router ,which needs 12v o.5 amo which was 6w for each...can u please suggest me the best heardware for this project.
That's actually a good idea. Wouldn't even be hard, just a 12V battery, a relay and some controller.
I wanna run my ups on my powerbank.. So inst of 12v battery , i wanna use boost converter... For which i was thinking about less hours of routing and might damage my powerbank...!
@@chandrasekharguntupalli4079 too much 'convert' make it not effective
@@chandrasekharguntupalli4079 That actually simplifies it a lot, as a power bank is essentially a UPS. There are 5V boost converter modules you can buy on amazon, even ones with USB inputs. So all you need to do is to connect a USB charger to the power bank's input, connect the boost converter to its output and connect the output of the boost converter to your router. The power bank will handle all the power switching on its own.
@@theodiscusgaming3909 so can i run '2' 12v load on one boost converter..?
1:30 HEY calm down you murdered a fly there !!!. love your work by the way