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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ต.ค. 2024
- First video of a DIY. Wanted to share since I couldn't find anything while I was looking for a solution. While looking for cable railing for our diy deck we found it was really expensive for kits. Ended up only costing about 1/4 the price when we pieced it all together ourselves. Sorry bout the sound, the traeger was on.
Here are the items I used
Stainless steel cabling
1/8" 7x7 Stainless Steel Cable Type 316 Marine Grade 1000ft reel www.amazon.com...
Cable tensenor
Muzata Hand Swage Tensioner Fitting Threaded Stud End Terminal 60Pack 1/8" Cable Railing Kit T316 Stainless Steel, with Installation Video for Stair Deck Railing Wood & Metal Post Balusters CR23 www.amazon.com...
Swage ends
Alamic Cable Railing Stainless Steel Stemball Swage Fixed Ends T316 for 1/8" Cable Railing Deck Railing Hand Railing Wood & Metal Post Hand Crimp Stemball Swage - 20 Pack www.amazon.com...
Hydropic Crimper
www.harborfrei...
![[ TEASER ] เงาะป่า - วงL.กฮ. | TMG RECORD](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/M4ObdFfcPww/mqdefault.jpg)
Thank you. Every time I look at my deck, I want to vomit. These hacks did me no favors when they built my house. I watched your video this morning and ordered everything right away. You made it easy by providing links to the products. I never comment on things, but i really appreciated this one. My next evening cocktail on the deck will include one for you. (I'll drink it for you)
Thanks a lot.
Thanks for the kind words. I’m no professional but happy I could share what I myself couldn’t find online.
This is by far the best straight up how to video I've come across for the cable railing. Thank you! Thank you!
Very nice video and excellent detail. One item of note, this would not pass code in most municipalities, because your posts are too far apart. No matter how much you tighten the cable, without intermediate posts, the cable will spread wider than the 4" allowed tolerance of a round sphere. Most systems recommend 3' spacing, 4' at most. Some of yours appears 5 to 6', but maybe just the camera angle?
Looks better and priced better than any other system I have seen..
Thanks. Hard to hear at times, but helped clear the process a lot. Great job on the deck board stagger. Looks great!
Best video and hardware I’ve seen hands down! Thanks for the links to the hardware!!! Just ordered it all!!!
Great Video and excellent job... I love the herringbone
Thank you! One of the best diy videos on TH-cam.
Thank you so much........ for your time and video
Great idea on the crimper this is why I love youtube. Thanks....I should send you the money I saved
Brilliant, very tidy, thank you!
Thanks for the video. I've been looking to do this for a while and you've shown a nice/clean fitting type that I hadn't seen before. And the link to parts is a nice touch. Looks great, Thanks!
Thanks. Glad you found this video. I certainly couldn’t find any which is why I made it.
Good job haigami and a neat system. Thanks for sharing.
I have the same gloves and the fingers blow out on mine too!
Thanks for using muzata products :)
How can I keep the threaded end from turning as tension the cable? Holding the cable with pliers isn’t very effective. Any advice is appreciated.
@feminjw We have various cable railing terminals for your choice. We also have a custom socket wrench to work with our invisible tensioner, this wrench will keep the knob of the terminal from spinning while tightening the cable. You can email us what you need, our email address is support@muzata.com.
@@feminjw Vice grips are man's best friend. If you do not have them ten you need them. They are cheap.
Great video, thanks for sharing!!
I just wired mine up. System works great, but if your 4x4's are weak, these will split the wood in half. In order to avoid this don't over tighten and add a bottom plate
what type of bottom plate should I add to anchor to the deck and actual wood?
Great Job Man and beautiful property.
Very nice job!
Followed this to a T and looks phenomenal. Appreciate you taking the time to make the Vid! The problem i'm having is the nuts are loosening causing the railing to sag a bit. Ive had to retighten every cable. Any recommendations to resolve? Loctite the nut on the threads?
I went back and used a second nut and or nut cap. Once it was tight, I’d tighten the two against each other and also used a little loctite
Yea I’m having this same problem now.
Hi Jim, looks great but not up to code for cable no span can be more then 3 feet before a support must be added and your cable spacing can not be more then 4 inches 3 to 3 1/2 is normally used other then that great job.
Did you use a template on the posts to get the holes aligned correctly?
You're the man! Using this for sure. Did you use any of the "protective sleeves" when you went through posts that weren't anchor points? Thanks, Bro.
BeerSnob506 sorry for the extremely delay response. I don’t do this often. No protective sleeves. Thought about it after the fact that I could just use rivet ends since the sleeves are expensive.
haigami thank big guy! Awesome DIY. Deck looks great😎
Thank you you so much for making this video!
Code Shmode...looks great, works great, saves money = nice job!
All good untile you try to sell the house!!!
Great video. Curious how this is holding up? And how far apart are your posts?
You have my vote. The alternative is way too expensive.
For those two very long runs of cable rail you show at then end of the video, did you only use one tensioner and swage end at the very end of each run with just the intermediate 4x4 posts as run through posts? Those are long runs of cable with no tensioners in between. Do you find that was adequate to maintain proper tensioning of those long runs? I've got one long run of almost 25ft and three runs of 10-11 ft that I worry won't be able to keep the proper tension with only one tensioner used at the end of each long run.
Thank you. Looks great.
Your video was extremely helpful. I did have a question about how to keep the threaded end from spinning as I tension the cable. Most don’t, but those that do are difficult to get proper tension. Thanks!
I put two nuts on and I can hold one stationary while I tighten down the other. Then tighten the two against each other when done
nice deck
Great job 👍 Im defenetly going to do it
Not a fan of the two posts at each corner. Could one go diagonal through one post maybe line it with a steel tube to prevent the cable from working through the wood?
Great video,just curious what is your post railing distance?
I know this is academic.. but its pronounced "swedge".. good video sir.
I know you’re trying to be academic but...Not only are YOU wrong. You’re trying to pull an intellectual flex on someone that is pronouncing that word correctly. So not only are you wrong, but you’re ignorant.
Not only are you wrong and ignorant but you’re trying to spread your misinformation and that’s irritating. Go read the dictionary before trying to backhand complement someone.
*I already did my homework to verify what I’m saying is correct so I don’t look like you do currently.*
@@VFL720 you're still wrong.. not only are you wrong.. but you made an excellent video. Get off the computer and go ask a tradesman that uses these items. Then you will know.
@@mikewills6753 I work as an electrician, man. Most of my friends are tradesmen. But it doesn’t make me correct...the dictionary does.
The dictionary makes you dependent.
great job！
Hey, thank for the great tips, I just ordered these materials for my deck rail project. What dimension of lumber do you have for your rail cap? Is that a 2x6 with a 2x2 below? great looking deck
vagabondroller rail caps are 2x4 with 2x2 below them to trim them out. I just cut 2x4s in half.
Awesome, thanks. I ended up going with 2x6 caps and 2x4 below. I used your exact system with the wire, right down to the HF crimper. It came out looking Pro for not a lot of cash. THANK YOU!
great job!
Great video but your Traegar made it very difficult to hear at times and the rest of the video it was just an annoying background noise. Other than that though, good job on explaining everything from the tools and materials used to the process.
Looks great! Probably the cleanest instal I have seen on here. How did you do the railings going down the steps?
I used a drill guide to be able to get close to the angle of the hand rail. It was had because the drill guide base was large. Would of been easier for me to disassemble the rails and drill while on a flat set face. Drill press would probably be the most accurate. I eyeballed the rest with a hand drill and lined it up parallel with the rail. The exit hole wasn’t exact but good enough for me.
@@haihly Great! I have a large drill press and will drill them before mounting them. I keep coming back to look at these cause they look beautiful. Totally stealing your idea!
@@russellg7382 that’s great. Wish I had a drill press. Just make sure the angle is the same as your hand rail so may want to mock it up to see where the first hole is. The top one lines up with the other posts. However the bottom one is left off because the cable would run into the steps.
That’s good advice. I have a short run of steps so it won’t be noticeable to have the bottom one missing.
Did you use a template? If so can you link to it? Ty - great video.
Very informative! I would just have turned off whatever machine you had going in the background. It was making too much noise.
Turn off the smoker!? That's not noise.....that's music.
Be sure to check your local building code. Some jurisdictions to not allow rails/guards that are climbable, and this design clearly is.
Great job! What is your post spacing?
Thanks for the video. Any thoughts on the ability to do this with composite decking posts?
Carol Hallenbeck honestly I wouldn’t know. I haven’t worked with composite. Hopefully someone who has will see this and chime in.
Why do you think this would not work. Its all just through hole design..??? Of course it will work...Now how do you go around a corner without adding an additional 4 x 4 thats the question.
Really nice job. What kind of wood did you use for the deck and rail posts?
Awesome video! Do you have rust issues?
Laura J. Brown Haigami did an awesome job, and great question. Check out “Potter’s Work” video titled “Cable Railing 2 Year Update and Questions Answered”, he explains why he started getting rust. It looks like the rust does come in on the parts of the cable that you cut. So, I would suspect that to mitigate that risk, you’d have to coat the cable (not sure if outdoor caulking would help).
No, no rust issues thus far
Did you do anything special in the corners from keeping the two 4x4’s from pulling a part from each other when tensioning the cable?
Thanks for the video. What are you going to use on the stairs?
Michael Preston stairs were some with cabling as well. Less row due to the angle. It was kind of tricky. I purchased a drill guide and that that helped with starting the holes and I’d finish by hand. The top hole was done by eye balling it due to the lack of space for the drill guide.
Hello looks really nice where did you get the hardwear at for the wire?
Amazon. In the video description I have the items I used.
What size drill bit did you use to drill the holes? Also, do you need to drill a larger hole at beginning post when you first start?
do you crank it like souja boy?
Just curious why you did not use intermediate posts. Your post spacing looks like 7-8 ft apart. Are you noticing any deflection when cable is stepped on?
Post spacing is just about 6ft. I know I should of done less however that’s just the way it came out with where I placed them. Poor planning on my part. When I redo the hand rails they’ll be closer. I’ll be redoing them in the future to put the entire 4x4 inside the Facia board instead of notching and going on the outside.
I did my father's deck in May and on a couple of the runs the cable spun and kind of unbraided the cable and I couldn't figure out how to hold the threaded swage fitting to keep it from twisting. I'm about to do my deck in the next couple of weeks so I was wondering if you had any issues with the threaded swage fitting turning as you tightened the tensioning nuts and how you dealt with it? Thanks, Thom
Just hold either end of the fitting with a pair of grips as you tighten the nut to stop the body spinning. For a neater look, use a lag bolt terminator at one end, and a lag tensioner at the other - install the ends into the posts first, swage the cable into the fixed end, extend the tensioner to 2/3 of its travel then cut the cable to fit - insert, swage and tension in place.
How can you hold the swage fitting when it’s inside the post? I would use a hacksaw and slot the end of the threaded swage and then hold it from turning by using a screw driver put into the slot as you tighten the nut.
He answered this above--use 3 nuts--one to tighten asnd two locked together to hold or some just lock on the end with vice grips
Same on jig pattern for the stairs?
Julie E , the stairs were kind of tricky. I had a hard time getting the angle cut for the hand rail on top. But as to the holes. They’re the same distance apart on the jig. Just had to start from the top and work down. There is one less hole in the bottom due to the angle. Hope that makes sense. Oh also I pretty much had to eye ball the angle with the drill since I didn’t have a drill press.
Thanks for the vid! What size die did you use in your HF Crimper?
Ian Thomas good question. I actually can’t remember and just recently lent out my crimper to a buddy. I remember having to do a few test crimps one a single piece to size it up. Sorry that’s not much help. But the crimper does come with different sizes.
@@haihly Awesome, thanks for the response! I know a lot of cable companies are selling crimpers with special 1/8 inch dies for a million bucks, but I figured a normal AWG die would work. However, no one else has talked about that, so I was glad to see you mention your HF crimper.
Ian Thomas Remember that we are talking stainless here. Dies made for AL or copper will quickly deteriorate. I believe that the Harbor tool comes with the correct die for 1/8"cable.
@@richardlafford1397 Right, I did find the HF one had a proper die that got it all solved for me. Thanks!
What's your local building code for maximum spacing of your verticals. Where I live it's 3 ft. Meaning I'd have to had more posts than you have on your railing.
did you mean 3 inches?
For a retro fit, i have the same problem.I need 27 intermediate posts. Mazuta has a "slim line"intermediate post that is just flat bar with a top and bottom plate to screw to the deck and top rail with 3 inch spacing. They would be nearly invisable but for 27 posts at $119 each the $3,213 is massivly staggering. Before proceding, this has to be puzzled out.
@@troydunn04 No some places requier support for cable railing every 3 feet with 3 inch on center spacing.
What size posts did you use. I would like to do this for a staircase
& for a balcony inside my home. Any recommendations? Please advise
Connie Bogedin the posts are 4x4
Connie Bogedin sorry I done exhale experience doing inside the home. This was literally my first time and I needed to find a affordable solution for what I wanted.
What size bit did you use on the end posts that had the hardware inside of them.
I'm curious to know too. I have fed my cable threw bought the same hardware but need to know hole size.
Is that a1x1 board under the 2x4 railing?
Technically a little bigger than 1x1. I took a 2x4 and ripped it down the middle.
Where did you get the fittings from?
All the parts are in my description. I believe everything was Amazon.
Question, can you give any advice on how you drilled your holes in the 4x4's? It looks like you spaced them really evenly. Did you use a template?
David Peerboom, I took a 2x4 and it it the same height as the railing where the holes would be from the floor up. Then marked and drilled holes at 2.5 in apart. This was my template I could move from one 4x4 to the next. I also used a drill guide to try to get it as straight through as I could. Some didn’t end up perfect but pretty good.
Has anyone successfully used the Harbor Freight hydraulic Crimper on 3/16 Cable
BTW thanks for this Post Answered a lot of questions and likely saved a lot of money
where did you order the materials from? thanks.
rlazarus1 in the drop down right below the video, I have links to where we got the materials. Mostly from Amazon.
thank you!
What'ch smoking?
I think it was beef ribs :)
Beef ribs :)
So You Put peoples life and health at risk over 60$??? Really?
YAWN
Looks like you wasted hundreds. Just completed my 28” deck for under $50. i used 4 inch spacing, as required. if you re-drill your start hole, add a washer to your cable, and double it back on itself
Arlin Steffanson, I’m happy for you.
Can’t picture what you mean Arlin, but I want to know how to save $. You have a vid or directions somewhere?
Arlin Steffanson No wonder. Your deck was only 28”. Miniature?
You didn't have to write that 1st sentence! Nasty!!! haigami took the time to video this and I than him for that! THEN the way You describe it just doesn't make sense, THEN you have a 28" (inch???) deck???
So much background noise in places, you cannot hear what he's saying !!!!
Would it not have been possible to move away from the noise source??? How daft !!!
What size of die did you use on your hydraulic crimper?
8 Ga