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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 ก.ค. 2019
- In this video I clean up a Yankee No. 1555 breast drill. It is made by North Bros. and is from the very early 1900's. I re-plate the nickel parts, clean and paint the remainder and also make a new wood handle on the lathe.
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![1910s Electric Breast Drill [Restoration]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/NpVnw7BDD6U/mqdefault.jpg)
![1910s Electric Breast Drill [Restoration]](/img/tr.png)
I am a professional qualified carpentry and I have been doing carpentry since 1965 , and I restore old vintage carpenter's planes and tools, love the job you did on the drill absolutely brilliant job well done amazing.
Roy Bailey Thanks for the kind words. I enjoy all old tools but hand powered drills really are my favorite.
Nice job, brother. At first I thought you japanned it. Next time you do one, grind the tip of the side handle bolt down to a screwdriver tip. That's how the originals came. You can disassemble the whole tool just using the handle. I found mine in an antique store downtown 20 years ago. It was disassembled in the original box. They lady sold it to me for $10 because she thought it was incomplete. Possibly my best score ever.
Nice job 👍 very informative as you go through the processes of each stage.
I just scored one of these myself. It's a beast of a hand drill!
I had to make a side handle for mine to. I bought a file handle the appropriate size and a piece of all thread.
I drilled a snug hole in the handle for the all thread, and glued and screwed it in and trimmed the end for the screwdriver bit.
I also made a front handle for my hand plane.
I used a hole saw and cut 3 pieces out of an oak board and stacked them with glue and bolted them and let them dry.
And then I put that bolt sticking out into the drill press and shaped it using very coarse sandpaper scraps from my belt sander and freehand shaped and stained it.
Both turned out very well and look original. 😁
Don't forget to fashion a screwdriver bit on the end of that side handle shaft.
I understand that's how the originals came. That little screwdriver is to tighten the other screws on the tool.
Excellent! That would be a great addition
I enjoyed your video. I have a few of these myself; they all loosened up with kerosene followed by a bit of light machine oil so I never needed to dismantle any of them.
When you are cutting a bolt or threaded rod, if you put a nut on the side you want to keep, then after you complete the cut unscrewing the nut will restore the thread on the end.
Commercial platers often plate a thin layer of copper first onto steel before plating nickel on top of the nickel. This aids adhesion of the nickel.
sandrine black Thanks for the comment and especially the plating info. I think I will try that on an upcoming project.
Best drill ever made hand
This is actually the first video of yours I watched (on the TV app so couldn't comment at the time). Thanks so much for posting it, I have a very similar drill I need to disassemble for a more thorough restoration and this will be a big help, thanks!
Great work. Grease is always better over oil. Try the bicycle grease and lube, as its sticks but doesnt attract dirt much
Fine tool, excellent job
I enjoy your videos, thanks for the time and effort
Thanks! I have some interesting stuff i'm working on now so I hope to keep 'em coming.
I think you have that Barrel transmission in backwards. On double ratchet the chuck should be turning forward not backward. (Right hand, not left hand) (clockwise, not counterclockwise)😃
I have the 1545 version of that one. Mine has an additional feature. It has a protrusion on the end of the main shaft that goes into the chuck where it slides into a slot on the inside portion of the chuck to keep things aligned more correctly for torque I believe. Even when the chuck is loose enough for the bit to fall out I can still drive screws in and out with lots of torque without the Chuck changing tightness.
My 1530 which is the miniature version, single speed, with the redesigned chuck by Stanley, does not have that in the chuck and every time I try to unscrew a screw the chuck opens up and the bit falls out, unless I put the transmission and park and use pliers on the chuck to tighten it down real tight.
My 1545 does not do that under any amount of torque in either direction and I mainly use mine for screws and bolts using a hex adapter in it and a quarter inch drive for sockets.
Nice video.
Thanks for the input- It's not hard to believe I put something in backwards! My knowledge on these drills is minimal at best.
Nice job. Fine work. Looks great.
Thanks! This was a fun one to do
I just realized that you have that transmission in backwards.
When it's on double ratchet that chuck should be turning forward, not backward when cranking the handle in either direction.
There was another TH-cam video of somebody who just bought one and was trying it out and they didn't realize the transmission in theirs was backwards also.
When you try to use a drill bit in that you would probably realize that it's turning the wrong direction in most settings.
Holding it vertical with the chuck pointing up, the writing on the transmission should be right side up, not upside down.
But it's still a very nicely restored bit driver.
I use mine for large screws and also as a nut driver with the hex to square drive for the sockets.
It is my favorite cordless tool. 😁
One more minor thing. Those little pins that you mentioned were delicate, can't be that delicate because that's your ratchet pawls that transfer all the torque from the crank to the main shaft. I'm sure that they are made out of very hard metal.
You are spot on. Thanks for taking the time to explain that, others noticed it too. I should probably post an updated video with the correct finished product.🙂
Cleaned up really good and it looks great.
I just got one of these, it is indeed a special tool. The bearings are not in mine. Appears to be 1/8" balls, I was hoping you might mention the size. 🙂
Hi bro 👋👋👋very good restoration drill 👍👍👍🤝🤝🤝
Кошмар Кошмар Thanks!
I wish I could send you pictures of my 1545 and the internal torque transferring device inside of the chuck.
At the end of the main shaft that goes into the chuck it has a large straight blade screwdriver bit that goes into a slot on the push plate that holds the three Jaws inside the chuck to transfer the torque from the main shaft directly to the Jaws so that when turning the handle backwards the Jaws do not loosen up like it does on my 1530 that does not have that internal torque transferring device.
When watching TH-cam videos it looks like none of those other similar egg beaters have the torque locking device in the chuck like mine has.
on many of those big beater drills if you turn the handle backwards the truck opens up in your bit falls out. On mine it doesn't matter if the chuck becomes loose or not and the bit will still have full torque even if it is just loose enough to fall out as long as it's not so far open that it cannot transfer torque to the bit.
Another way to tell is to hold the empty chuck still and turn the crank and see if the jaws of the chuck spin around as they open and close (go in and out) or if they just stay in one spot (and go in and out) as they open and close.
On my 1530 when I hand tighten the chuck and try to take out screws, the Jaws opens up and the bit falls out unless I use pliers to tighten the truck real tight.
I'm pretty sure that your chuck is scarred up and scratched up really bad because people had to lock the handle and then tightened the chuck with pliers.
Hi, great video. How big is the main drive gear? I have a 1545 but the main gear is broken in two (the one the handle attaches to). I wondered if the 1555 gear would fit it? Thanks, D.
Ships were built
Keep yer tools clean ,
Yes!!! This is the video I was looking for!!! How did you take the crank handle off? It’s riveted, isn’t it? Thanks for all the great information!!
If you are talking about the wood handle on the crank arm, you will have to carefully grind or file off the mushroomed part of the bolt/rivet and then you can drive out the long rivet. When you reassemble you just peen over the end to hold it in place.
1/32 drill bits
Tune up yer tools
Wrong drill!
I'm looking only for 1545 drills!
Top handle is for your forehead