Everything WRONG With My $40 300,000 Mile Silverado From The Tow Lot
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 ต.ค. 2024
- If you haven't seen the first video on this truck, catch it here: • Abandoned Silverado Co...
This was a truck I bought from a local tow lot after it was abandoned. The truck was in pretty decent condition, or at least appeared to be and I have a soft spot for this generation. In the last video we talked about why it could've been abandoned, and how I sold the wheels and sub box out of it so that in total I had $40 invested including title fees. After an ignition switch, I was able to drive this truck home! At this point I've run two tanks of gas through it so I felt it was time to get it in the air and see what I could find wrong with it.
This is a rough shake down video. Nothing wild, but its good to poke around the entire truck inside and out and get an idea of what kind of work it needs. Some of what I found was shocking, and my attempt to repair the abs...well... you'll see!
I know its been a while since I posted a video on this truck and I'm not sure when the "repair" video will be made, but it will happen!
I hope you enjoyed this update. As always I love all of the comments, feedback and even the criticism. Catch you on the next one!
-Eric
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I paid $300 for a 2000 Silverado LS
657,000 miles all original except the rear differential
Everything works !
Like a Rock, baby !!!!
The great circle of automotive life. Bodies go north, engines go south, and the junkyards are the guys who make it happen.
As a guy not from the states - why do they need engines in the south? Is it from bashing off the rev limiter outside the local courthouse?
The bodies stay perfect; the engines wear out...
therefore new (replacement 2nd hand) engines are required?
@@Sam-go3mb
@@Sam-go3mb Southern cars tend to not run much if any antifreeze and often straight water which over time kills the engine
@@TH-camAIbot that...doesn't sound right? anti-freezing is just one of the properties of engine coolant right? no way that's that common
well what would I know, maybe they're just weird down there, I know they say 'vehicle' with the hard h 😂
@@Sam-go3mb After 5-10 years in the north with salted roads the body of a car just gets trashed. Engine and all that is likely still good. In the south you end up with a good looking body but an engine with 300K miles on it that needs replaced. So you buy a running engine from up north, or you buy a good body from down south, depending on what you need.
GMT800 trucks are GOATed. One of the very last vehicles that is easy to work on without the dealer.
My dad sold his '01 with 147k miles on it and to this day it's one of his few regrets. It's pushing 500k in the hands of the second owner and as far as I'm aware the only major issue was also a transmission rebuild. Nothing else beyind general maintenance/wear and tear stuff.
I had an 06 GMC version of this one. It was a pretty good truck & I drove it til a bit over 200k miles, then sold it. It was in a bit worse condition than this one, but the interior was still in fantastic condition cosmetically, mechanically and electrically- everything always worked- though I did have to do the blower motor resistor fix at one point. The truck was mostly easy to work on and the 5.3 engine was rock reliable. Those years of 5.3s were some of the best engines ever created, by anyone.
Oddly, given the price of new trucks and how affordable the parts are for these, this one could make sense(for the right person) to strip it to the frame and fix/redo all the frame/body & mechanical issues. Then reassemble it and rustproof it(annually, or semi-annually) and get another 10 or more years out of it. Could even freshen up the engine/trans while it's apart. It might cost 15-20k to do everything, but then you have a solid workhorse of a truck that will end up having a relatively low cost of ownership.
I ha a total of 3 of these trucks. A 2003 Chevy RCSB a 2006 Chevy SCRB Duramax and a 2004 GMC extended cab regular bed.
I own a GMT400 (5.0), a GMT800 (5.3), and a GMT900 (6.6L). The GMT800 was the peak. Capable and reliable. It’s all downhill after 2007
@@jacksonreid6412 Not necessarily. I have a 2017 1500 4wd 5.3 with about 135k miles on it & it has been an exceptionally great truck. So far, I've only had to do one front hub and brake pads once front and rear. I liked my 06 that I drove for 11 yrs. But I like my 2017 a lot better.
Actually Eric, you DO need that AC in the winter months. When in defrost mode, the AC is used to dry out the air in the cab to reduce fogging of windows etc. Essentially, it comes on automatically on most vehicles. Not always true on older vehicles, but since at least the 90's when the AC system became more integrated with the heating system, that became true on domestic makes.
And thats why on all the more advanced systems it disables the A/C compressor below freezing... yep.. doesn't let it turn on. If you consider winter above 32 then it sometimes can help
Us oltimers dont need no stinkin ac! 😂 Crack a window, heat on defrost, no ac, , and dont breathe heavy and its fine. Just put the ac delete on my old 95 ram, flushed the heater core, and it defrosts just fine! My 69 gto did too.
Probably not most vehicles but definitely some. And often it can be over ridden. While the A/C dehumidifies, it isn't needed with warm air blowing on the windshield.
I can confirm the 2003 Chevy Trailblazer does this garbage with the AC compressor running when heat is on. so Chevy was definitely doing this in the era of this truck.
My 2018 Toyota turns the AC off on defrost setting. If the outside air is cold, its also dry, thats why my car also automatically opens the fresh air vent when the defrost is turned on...
midwest adam sandler struggles against ancient vehicle is my favorite genre of youtube, thank you
Having lived in MI for 36 years I can absolutely say that you have the most clean and lack of rust early 2000's truck that i have ever seen with over 300k miles. That truck is a Christmas miracle 🤯
As a fellow MI resident... Yeah... No shortage of rusty clapped out pickups here!
Same in Ontario.
It is pretty sweet…when I saw those rockers I was amazed.
And that is why I love living in Arizona. I have a 2003 Mercury Grand Marquis and the underneath parts still have their stickers on them from the factory. No rust here
I just bought a 2012 Toyota Tundra from Texas and had it shipped to the Washington DC suburbs. The same story still has stickers on the frame and parts. I was shocked the first time I saw a vehicle that old with those on it. I grew up in NJ another place that eats cars from the bottom up. The winters and salted roads destroy them, especially if you live near the Jersey shore with the year-round salty air. I'm going to try to keep the truck's undercarriage as clean as possible up here.
Same here in Florida, at least the panhandle. 08 MGM still looks factory underneath. The LCM/AC/Shift interlock is another story...
Dude, living in New York. My 2003 Mercury Sable should be a pile of "rust dust" by now. However underneath looks like the day it came from the factory 🏭. But I don't drive it in the winter and if I do, I wash the frame underneath at the end of the day. I love the Marquis nice
I absolutely loved this video!
Also, I can now say I'm a veteran viewer of your channel. When the scan tool dropped off the door handle, I immediately blurted out "it's fine". And a second later you said "it's fine". I absolutely love your sense of humor and the little comments you make as you diagnose and wrench on the vehicle.
I couldn’t agree more. I too love Eric’s sense of humour (sorry but I’m a Brit and we stick completely unnecessary vowels in way too many words). He has an innate sense of comic timing helped by some excellent editing.
"its fine" has become my new life motto lol
Oh, it's super common for the front ABS sensors to get rust jacked and causes the ABS to always cycle at low speeds (under 5mph).
Yup, it’s always the wheel speed sensors. Have had many different GM vehicles do that.
Are they built into the wheel bearings or are they separate? My old AWD Astro had them in the wheel bearings. My Astro that was scrapped due to typical Detroit salt damage despite the drivetrain having years and years of useful life left
@@kevinjokipii4260
They're on the wheel bearing assembly, but they're just held in place by a single screw and can be replaced. You can hypothetically pull the sensor out, clean the mounting surfaces, and reassemble it, but in my experience, that same rust that is causing the erroneous readings is also going to make the sensor impossible to remove without destroying it, so it will need new sensors even if they aren't currently bad.
Usually means the bearings are worn, you need to change the hub assemblies
I had my ABS disconnected the second time the sensors failed. Happy again.
Just started up my 250k mile 91 Metro for the first time in 3 months as well. The satisfaction when it starts first try. 👌
I started my 2010 gmc savana in january when it was -10f out, to move it for the plow. It has 467000 miles on it. These dont die if you take care of them.
DO IT! DO IT! You know what a new one costs these days. You may not be able to repair the rust, but you can power wash some of the scale away and apply rust preventer. She runs pretty well. I think you'd have a nice daily or work truck when you're done.
I have a 92 chevy K1500 with 275k miles on my truck was orginally set up as a heavy half ton ,minor rust ,I have had mine for 5 years,bought cheap,but have kept the work up on it, I use it to haul and travel with,fun old truck,worth its weight in gold,each person always wanted a old truck,and there rare finds in deed.
99 GMC suburban c2500 with the 7.4 253k!
Does the heavy half ton have a thicker frame? The 74 k10 I had long ago had a Crack where the steering mounted.
I like the wheels on the truck. Those 2006 wheels are perfect
Holy crap, my 07’ Tahoe has 307k miles too. Bought it completely stock at 116k and only needed the trans rebuilt at 299k. So other than a tune and that rebuild, she’s still completely stock. I just wish I could stay ahead of the rust, I can’t believe how badly they rust.
its crazy to me people buy new trucks in places like this, i just couldnt justify it. Buying used must involve a lot of getting on your back to see the damage underneath.
@saltycarl6581 welcome to the rust belt my friend.
338k miles on my ‘99 Dakota and it ran and drove very well. Rust killed it.
My 96 Cheyenne has only slight body rust; 405K on her.
You think these are bad, their where some like Nissan or Toyota's (I forget which) that where so bad back in the mid 2000's it wasn't uncommon to hear stories of the trucks snapping in half when lifted on a 2 post lift.
geez I even smiled when it fired up
I’m SOOO glad that I live in the south!!! I can go right now and find multiple 90’s and even 80’s model vehicles online that have next to no rust, or just barely any surface rust.
Our vehicles down here don’t fall apart, they wear out.
Always like the mid week video. I had a 95 S10 Blazer, head gaskets from both sides of the 4.3 blew at 287 k. It really only started rusting while it had to sit while waiting for the engine and transmission swap. Great car. Second motor and transmission were awesome too. In the end, I got rid of it because of the rust. Mechanicals were still great.
The recent upload was superb! Your consistent effort deserves mad respect. Keep creating awesome content.
My wife lost the spare tire of her 2001 suburban in the middle of Main Street several years back. New England rust! Gotta love it.
That happened to me with a 2000 Dodge Ram 1500 in NJ. The cable that held the tire snug to the frame rusted so bad it snapped.
@@kman-mi7su exactly how it happened with the suburban. Then GM started putting the safety catch on their mechanisms. This is just as bad because they seize and then you can’t get the spare down when you need it. I’ve had to fight this on three different suburbans over the years. I’m sure they work great when new, but mine are generally bought when they are already 15 years old. The damage has already set in.
I'm in Arkansas.I have a '96K modelSivrado.208K,on it I
won't get rid of it ,unless/until It can no longer be fixed !
LOVE MY TRUCK!
Great video !
I got a 1998 dodge ram 2500 with the 12 valve Cummins from the original owner last year. He has 311k on the clock and luckily, it’s rust free since it lived in Arizona and California its whole life. If that were my Chevy, I’d recycle the good parts and junk the body and frame. Interesting video, Eric. ~WilPaul
Must have a lot of cash
But how is the dash? Mine is gone.
I live in north central Missouri.
This truck rust still has a good 10 years + left in it. That exaust is good as long as it goes past the cab it can point down.
My 94 1500 Chevrolet w/t has almost 30,000 more at 336,262 as we speak. It has 4.3L V6 runs like a champ.
Is missouri part of the rust belt?
Astro with 320k here. Bought it for 1k from an old man that used it for his landscaping biz. Needed something to throw dirtbikes into and occasional light hauling. replaced both front control arms and fluids, good to go. Aside from the AC clutch freezing up and starting a small fire under the hood...as dependable as a sunrise. Granted its lived its whole life in California, but hey.
My 2004 Suburban has been in dry Colorado for all but 1 winter (North Dakota). I bought it new. It still has the factory ball joints, but I have done the shocks. ABS still works - it even has the original brake pads on all 4 corners at 305K miles. The oil leak on the back of the engine is probably the oil pressure switch. (Has been 3 times on mine). I've done knock sensors, water pump, alternator, crank position sensor, fuel pump, cluster stepper motors, headlight switch. Right now it needs a light in the climate control and blend door. I plan to replace the padding and covers on the front seats (covers are still good, but replacing the padding without the covers would be dumb).
Had a 04 GMC Envoy XL with the LM4 V8. Bought it with 236k miles. Oil pump failure around 300k. After replacing the pump, Dealer wanted $8k to pull the engine out just to do the job. Bought a melling pump for $50, did the job myself in about 6 hours. Truck ran like new again till the dreaded 4L65E blew at 408k miles. Hub bearings, front end work, electric clutch fan, water pumps but still ran good. I miss that thing.
Back in 06 I traded my rusty green '95 Silverado. It was on it's last legs. Rust had taken the brake lines, a spring had broken and the fuel lines were holding on by a thread. I was walking on an urban hiking trail a couple of years ago, and as I looked back across the intersection, there was my truck! 13 years after I gave up on it, the left rear spring was still broken, the paint was still missing from the roof, and it was being driven. Don't count these trucks out just because they are getting sketchy!
I've washed the underside of my trucks fairly regularly and they've kept fairly rust free. My 360,000 mile dodge still has a black frame front to rear. Just some rust where the salts and mag chloride creep in and stay. My other 360,000 mile dodge from the same state is still solid but is quite crusty and flaky. No paint left on the frame and the doors have WAY more rust.
Ball joints are spring-loaded as far as I know, so I test them with a big pair of channel locks and squeeze them together to look for looseness. And, coming from Western Pennsylvania and having been in California since 1986, I really appreciate the lack of rust on vehicles out here! Take care, Eric, and keep the good stuff coming man!
I dont know if someone already says that. But for your abs activation at low speed is because there is one abs sensor on front, its gonna need a wheel bearing. Check the wheel speed in your scanner and there is gonna be one that drop to 0mph whee it is at 5
It's cool seeing you have a high mileage silverado and an old volvo. I have a 98 silverado with 328,000 miles and a 98 volvo s70 with 220,000 miles
Great video Eric. Anxious to see the next one. Have a great day.
Man, I can’t wait to see the third video on this truck
I inherited my dad's 99 GMC 1500 and just broke 100k mi on it and am so glad I'm in Alaska and not down there after seeing that. Might as well replace or resolder the relay contacts in the controller since those fail a lot too. 300k mi on stock shocks is very impressive. I finally did my 2 years ago. Rancho 5000s are a good reasonably priced alternative.
Love it! Great video. I feel similarly about my 1999 F250 super duty with the V10. But mine only has 240,000 miles on it. I don't use it a lot, but it always runs for me. It can sit for months and fire up on a below zero morning when I need it to clear the driveway.
You're certainly my favorite channel. Thank you not only for what you do, but how you do it.
This might be an interesting series, glad you did the two videos! Hope for more.
That’s the best 99-02 Silverado color imo
I really do love the GMT800 series trucks, they’re like an old friend or a comfortable pair of old jeans but man do they rust if extra measures aren’t taken like frequent washing in winter or oil spraying.
Great video dude!
First new truck I bought was that exact same one , same colour too.
Sweet
The frame rot behind the fuel tank is a weakness on these trucks. I had an ‘06 Avalanche and an ‘08 Silverado that both rotted in that location and the Avalanche frame also rotted just under the passenger door. And yes I did oil undercoat both vehicles the entire time I owned them. The frame is a weak point for us up here in Canada at least
I like driving to the snow an hour away and coming home to green grass, I dont miss living in snow one single bit and the rustbelt...
Dually noted.
I don't miss dry, brown, arid, smoggy, congested cities out west.
I bought my GMT800 just for the swap, but kept it together when I realized how great it was. Since then it's carted over 2 dozen LS swaps from the wrecker, and I even yolo'd it with a diy turbo kit. 257k miles covered in rust but it eats boost and just asks for more.
Pretty much all the issues have been from rust. I only wish they had popped for stainless brake & fuel lines from the start.
I moved to the Pacific NW from Chicago......I buy 70s and mid 80s g20s and G30s...... amazing how awesome they are still without seeing road salt.
Love this kind of video. Diagnostics are an art. Hope you have time to do more like this
Love the mid-week videos
Trust me here in the RUST/Farm Belt country here north of Pittsburgh ,PA. about a good hour or so North of Pittsburgh, we have people still buying and cobbling and welding those back to drivable in the state with the strict State Inspection. Tons of them from 125K as far north of 500K on original motor and with a rebuilt once transmission or a junkyard one north of 200K depending on how they treat it or beat it daily. My Boss sold one with the 8.1 in it and has regrets daily, it only had 90K on the clock.
I've got a 2001 extended cab Sierra 2wd with 270,000 on it. There's literally no rust underneath the truck.
Here in NE Ark they can't afford to put salt on the roads, so things don't rust. The paint on the truck evaporated years ago but the sheet metal is still good. I figure the truck is a keeper.
I have 2001 chevy express van..Abs light on when i bought it 11 years ago..Still on! Drove it today. Been driving cars with no Abs for years. I even drove my 1986 chevy Camaro through snow storms and whatnot for years, Contrary to people who say, "You have to have front wheel drive or you cant go out in the Snow!" Lol!
I'm amazed at you have it working and the corrosion is what is causing the extra ABS condition. Great super hack and I have learned a new one after this one.
I had an 85 S-10 2.8 V6 that I bought brand new. Only replaced 2 water pumps had all the front end rubbers and bushings replaced, brakes a few times and many tires, NO engine work other than oil changes. It had 275,000 miles when I sold it and saw it running around for years after that.
I threw mine together from multiple wrecks, a rollover for the chassis and running gear and a front end hit for the cab and bed. So long as they're not rusted it's worth doing and we did many before mine at the shop where I learned to build truck and SUVs from wrecks. If no key it's easy to delete ATS using free software, a power supply and a bench harness you can easily make.
I have a 2002 F140 with 4.6 2v. 404,000 miles. Just put a remanned 4.6 from Powertrain Products a few months ago (393,600). Still has the original transmission going strong.
The 4.6 is excellent. I had one in my '95 Crown Victoria and it was great.
Also, a big trigger for ABS pump failures and codes is the wheel speed sensors in the front. It will continually try to pump the ABS because it senses from the front wheels and the rear axle, and it will burn the pump out trying to keep it running. Especially at low speeds, the ABS turning on when you're under 5 mph is a big giveaway for a bad wheel bearing.
It's a good beater winter truck. Nothing more, nothing less. Still has some value to a lot of people.
My father-in-law bought a 99 GMC Sierra 1500 new. Sold it to me with 150K, I gave it to my son with 220K, and he drove it to 350K when the rear-end blew. I pulled and had the trans rebuilt around 200K and my son did the same at about 300K. Living in CO, rust wasn't too much of an issue. Probably the best truck I've owned, though my 06 Tundra is going strong at 225K (But I liked the GMC much more than the Tundra.)
Still have my '05 1500, bought off lot with 18 miles, now has 310k. Original engine and tranny made it to 293000, still love driving it, normal rot under the doors.
Took my 72 Toyota Corolla from Los Angeles to St. Louis and spent 2 winters there. Could not believe how quickly the paint started deteriorating in Winter. After the first Winter, I found a place I could wash the undercarriage periodically and babied my car til I got it back to Los Angeles. (St. Louis Winters were too much for me.) Got it back to LA and took it to mechanic who asked me about the corrosion. Was a good car through 1988 til someone T-boned it as it was approaching 200,000 miles.
GRE3AT VLOG DUDE! ENJOY YOUR FIXING UP SKILLS! SMART GUY, SHARP AND HONEST TRADESMAN!!!
GM tough got a 2004 silverado all original front end parts. 312,502 miles with fisher plow on it as well. Still runs like new!
Great old trucks. My daughter wants one of those in the worst way. She’s has a 03 VW Passat V6 at the moment, pretty nice little car but needs some exhaust work. Thanks for the Videos, Eric.
An electric motor that draws excess current and won't turn may be locked, either in the motor or in the load. When the motor isn't turning its armature windings are just short-circuit wire. When they turn, the same magnetic field that creates the torque also creates a "back emf"--a voltage working against the supply voltage, reducing the voltage driving the current through the windings.
That truck is really in pretty good shape considering 307k miles in a harsh environment, pretty impressive
I have a 2002 Chevy Suburban for 12yrs with 340,000 best engineering they made for that truck bodies right now but engineering goes strong still
less rust than our 200k mile 2007 suburban we ditched years ago.
I can relate to rust issue. I have 05 GMC Sierra 2500HD with 244,000 miles. Love the the truck despite all the rust.
Oh by the way, i live in Michigan!
Thanks for working on a whole vehicle 👍
Thanks for the video, Eric! Nice lunch break entertainment. As they say, every fix is temporary until it's permanent. Appreciate your integrity and transparency on the truck, but I'm guessing you just made all those guys want it even more... 😅
I have a 2003 Sierra V6 has almost 200K miles. I bought it new in 2003, best vehicle I have ever owned!
I have 2001, which I’ve owned since brand new. It currently has 138k miles. It’s been a great truck and will keep it until the wheels fall off.
mine sat for a 2 weeks in below zero, no bueno with a 1 year old battery.
Congrats!
I got 301,000 on my 2013 Silverado 4.3L 4speed Still Runs great
Wow! I have an 02 Silverado with 282k just like yours, and have MUCH more rust on that ol girl, had to do rockers, cab corners, all 4 frame crossmembers just to get it safe! I consider this one super clean 🙃 Edit: bed sides were rusted out too.
im kind of impressed how little rust there is, ive seen a 2020 look about as bad as that. definitely has some concern spots
And no piston slap! Amazing
Still driving my 2001 Silverado with 313,400 miles daily! She's rusty but trusty!
rusty and trusty don't go in the same sentence
A big plus. There's still a frame under it at all. Minnesota loves to dump tons of salt every time it snows!
I find it bizzarre how such a vehicle is allowed on the roads to me. In the UK the yearly MOT inspection dictates that any rubber boot that is split is a fail. Any rubber bush or balljoint that moves is a fail. Any rust holes within 30cm of a suspension mounting, seat belt mount or seat bracket is a fail. Any leak in the exhaust anywhere is a fail. Even split wiper rubbers is a fail.
It sounds extreme but it's amazing how many people don't bother to check anything on their cars over here. Great video, looking forward to seeing more of your cars!
Not every state in the US does inspections, and most people don't understand how to care for a large hunk of metal; if they park it outside, that doesn't help either.
Speaking personally, I try to get my car washed at least once a month, preferably twice a month during winter, and the only rust I've got is surface rust on my rear subframe. Having an insulated garage helps.
If those restrictions where enforced in the rust belt not a single car would be on the road. This rust is base level in the upper and eastern midwest.
Sounds like a lack of freedom issue. Insert bald eagle noises
Garage? Ha - a luxury! Much of our housing is terraced with not even a driveway. The vast majority of people here never even open their bonnet - they just expect their cars to last until they can bin it off for a new one every three years, and they complain when they have to pay for a fuel/air filter change or new tyres. @@CaptainSpadaro
Some eurpoean cars are more carefully galvanised in general, but it's getting thinner every year and nowadays they fail more on emissions and turbo failure so rust rarely becomes an issue for us now! @@nicholasryan8016
that truck is in good shape
Oh boi a mid-week upload. You really do spoil us
I owned a ‘68 F250 that in 1996 still had the original shocks. Of course those weren’t actually doing any damping. Replacing them was both cheap and highly effective.
I worked on a trailblazer with a 5.3 a couple of weeks ago. The valley pan bolts were loose and it had oil on the shifter cable just like this truck.
Thats my truck.
2004 Silverado Z71 5.3. I purchased new Nov. 2003. Still my everyday construction work truck.
Currently 428,000+ miles on origanil engine and transmission.
Only use half a guart of oil with every 5,000 mile change.
I do all maintenance.
Best truck I've ever owned.
Awesome video. Thank you for making this type of content. Absolutely love what you do. 🎉
Do it fix it love those trucks !!
Holy crap, a older Chevy that has a oil pressure gauge not flopping all over the place. Amazing.
The ABS doesn't run its self test until 5 or 9 mph...I forget, thats why the light didnt come on right away. Those were good trucks even with the problems they did have.
Yeah, my 99 Suburban the ABS module was shot, I just pulled the fuse, it would like work then not work as if the weheel sensors were messed up but were good, the module was so expensive I just decided I didn't need ABS. I sold that thing for a 94 Suburban with low milage, plain jane as it gets, no ABS at all, Im sure it didn't even have a locker from factory, The previous owner installed one and it helps in the winter months.
Take care of them and they'll run forever!
Put some Bilstein shocks on it. I did that to my 04 Silverado and I love them and they’re not that expensive either. Also, maybe clean up some of the surface rust on the frame and coat it in fluid film
Still running a 324k Chevy here with original engine and transmission. Yep, rust will be it's ultimate fate.
29:15 very nice of gm to put the vital abs pump on the frame rail where they knew it get wet and salt covered. When it could be in the motor bay high and dry. Oh wait they put the ecm under the hood by the frt so water can get it wet.
GMT800 platform is the best of the last of GM’s Truck/SUV platform. Anything 2007+ is junk.
Well I have to agree/disagree with ya there.The 800's are great,well built,but I've got a 2011 Avalanche that's been pretty good to me.Yeah,it's got the cracked dash,but other than brakes and tires it's been a pretty uneventful 70K miles since I've owned it-bought it used with 63k on it.
I have a 2000 Ranger and I have some frame damage due to rust and they sell parts to repair the bad section I use rust converter and stop all the rust and coat it with frame paint. Salt here isn't that bad to deal with if you stay on top of it. Here in Wisconsin I drive a Winter beater that has been rust converted and painted. My Van has 250k mile on a Windstar van and paid $500, this is my 4th winter.
Ive got an 01 silverado with 345,000 miles and shes still kickin
For its age and location that truck is actually in pretty good shape. Well worth fixing the few things it needs. Especially considering you don't really have any money invested in it yet. I wouldn't go all out, just fix the few things it needs to be safe. Would make a good work truck for sure.
$40?
Surely that's a typo 😮
Depends on how much sales tax you -have- want to pay at registration. 🤣
@@icin4dI'd pay $40 for a 300k truck.
If I recall it didn't have a title, he has an older video on the truck where he explains it. It's basically gonna be a shop truck IIRC
the spare tire is worth $40.00
I think I’d buy any running car for $40. You can always sell it for $100
this guy is my motivation where did you go to school? I want to know as much as you!
You're comin up on the magic 300K. Time to buy some party balloons etc. Spray a gallon of Fishoil all over the rust areas and it will soak in and dry in Spring to combat more salt intrusion. Otherwise a decent truck worth a little TLC. Rock Auto for more parts. You have heaps of lifts needing Rockauto car magnets added
That undercarriage is pretty typical for the area where I grew up (NJ) and where I currently live (Washington DC suburbs). The frame isn't so far gone on that truck if you sprayed it with a rust neutralizer, it'd be ok. Considering where you are, I'd also spray it with some bar oil or other stick grease. You are a younger guy than me, but you can drive that truck just fine without ABS. I drove plenty of vehicles without it in NJ winters back in the 80s and early 90s and I'm still here. The key is to drive sensibly for the conditions.