Thanks doing one just like it right now. One thing I must say there is a small o'ring & flat washer that goes on the fuel mixture screw on top of the spring. O'ring is very small. What I do most of the time is drop the o'ring down in the hole first and move it in place with a small pick then drop the washer - spring then screw the fuel screw in. I have found a lot of times if you stack them all together and try to slid everything in the hole the o'ring will snag and roll off to one side of the fuel screw..
Thanks mate. Just did my 00 klr250 carb & this came in handy. It would only run on choke. My pilot & main jets were blocked after 5yrs storage. Soaked for 2days then used a wire strand off a wire brush to clean them. Runs great now. Full service next. Cheers Rod...
Man you have saved me so much of a headache, I'm working on my 2003 kawasaki vulcan 1500 classic and it's my first carb rebuild and I had a random spring pop out and because of your video I found out where it went and found that I put the diaphragm back together wrong!
Maybe somehow mine is different but I think your telling people wrong about the diaphragm pin I put the clip then the pin then the spring and it runs like a champ so I’m not sure what happened
good video, had 4 of these on a 4cyl racecar and could not find whats the modelname on them, needed to set idle as last owner just drove it full gas constantly
I know this is an older video, but I’m hoping to get a response. That rubber plug towards the end of the video that fits over the front of the carb. How important is that? Because the KLR250 I recently bought does not have it. It is having the same problems as you did, i followed the video and cleaned up the carb and hopefully it works out good. Thank you for a very detailed vid.
Totally random. I just clicked on your channel and saw that I have previously seen some of your ham radio videos. Haha. You're such a nerd. In the best possible way of course.
Idk if someone will respond but why my klr250 is leaking from overflow while the fuel valve is closed and when it sits for more than 3min it just shuts down can someone help?
My klr didnt start yesterday ,maybe 50 kickstart attempt. I pushed in 2 gear and start . Sometime doesnt start easy some time start very easy .iş there commen like this problem ? What ı Should do for first kick start ?
Any idea why my 1995 KLR250 sputters at 5k rpm's and above in any gear? This started occurring after I overhauled my carb because it was leaking fuel a few years ago. The bike hasn't ran well since. It does run fine up to 5k then it starts cutting out past that. I've torn apart the carb several times and recleaned it, dipped it in cleaner, thoroughly but to no avail. I can't find the problem. Do you think it could be the diaphragm? I know that if there's even a microscopic tear or rip in one, it will affect it's performance. And do you know where I can purchase a new carb for the KLR250? Thanks much!
Could be the diaphragm....or maybe something isn't quite going together right but isn't obvious. Another problem could be a small air leak in the airbox or someplace like that...these carbs are very sensitive to that. Also check to make sure you have the right parts in your carb...maybe the rebuild kit wasn't quite right.
Just bought one what does the clear line run to mine was leaking fuel from there hose us gone air box was half full of fuel carb was just leaking fuel thanks
I had a Yamaha with that pressed in there, it's so the factory settings aren't messed with. You gotta drill em out to get the the idle adjustment screw
It's hard to tell from this video, but is your "master jet" (the larger of the 2) being screwed down all the way where no threads are left exposed? When I went to reassemble; I noticed the jet doesn't screw all the way down like the other, but it seems like I would have to force it to go down any further. I'm taking apart this same carburetor and when I put it back together and turn my fuel petcock ON, it just floods instantly and starts coming out of the carb drain hose-- EVEN with the drain screw closed tight. Maybe something wrong with the jet not being screwed down? the float and needle valve seem to be working fine. I haven't had a lot of spare time to sit and fiddle with it-- im sure I'll get it.. just wondering if it's something you experienced during your carb cleaning. Hope you got your bike running smooth. thanks
The problem you describe sounds like a float/needle valve problem to me. Check to make sure the seat for the needle valve is clean and free from debris. I don't remember what everything looks like in there but you really shouldn't have to force anything to get it to the jets to seat right. But even if they are out of whack, the float, needle, and seat should stop any fule from flowing once the bowl is full of fuel. There are exploded diagrams on the internet that may help you see what thinks should look like when assembled...look for the KLR20 information page and you should also find a write-up with pictures and explanation of the carb's opeartion. My bike is running good now, but the fork seals are leaking and getting oil all over the front brake so I haven't been riding it this summer...haven't had time to address the problem yet. Hopefully I'll be back out on the trails this fall. Good luck with your project!
@@SevenFortyOne hey thank yo for the reply, I never saw your response in my notifications. I can't actually say for sure what I did that worked I just kept taking it apart and putting it back together and then one time i fired it up and it was running without any issue. Only thing I could think is that the metal tab that hold the needle valve might have been bent and holding the valve from closing all the way. Either way thank you for the reply wish I saw it lol take care
@@thetorquingpoint8936 yea I never saw the OPs response and I'm sorry this info isn't super helpful , but I ended up just literally taking the carburetor apart like a half dozen times and putting all the parts back together, and then it just stopped leaking and ran great, all I could think is maybe I was installing the needle valve in backward or something. I ended up buying a 2nd carburetor off Amazon out of frustration, it was only around $40, just make sure the carb has the same inlet and outlet diameter and you should be good. I got the OEM carb running before the new one showed up lol typical, but I tried the Chinese aftermarket and they both worked fine. ( I did have to Jerry rig the aftermarket carb since it wasn't designed specifically for my Mojave ,250 , but I left it on for a couple weeks before putting the OEM back on and it worked fine, hope this helps)
That's the emulsion tube, the main jet screws into the end of it. The emulsion tube leans off the air fuel ratio as the air flow goes up. If the emulsion tube side holes are blocked the air fuel ratio will be too rich.
Great video yet somewhat annoying. You went through in really good detail yet your hand was in the way so much it was hard to see what you were doing. Thanks though for making the video. I appreciate it
You are right - I had some poor camera angles here and that bothered me too. I decided to release the video anyway figuring something was better than nothing.
@@SevenFortyOne yeah I just got it cleaned and I'm putting it back on the bike but I'm having trouble with the intake hose and I was holding the Kickstart down and it slipped out of my hand and uppercut me
Good video but "put this little fella in here "doesn't really help us novices no more "than put this over this er fitting" .I came on and went away happier but it could have helped if you would have told us which jet /screw was and what they were for . You see when I stripped mine down I broke a part and have no idea which one .
![ละลาย (LALALYE) - DAOU PITTAYA ต้าห์อู๋ พิทยา [OFFICIAL MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/wo6r9TgausI/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks doing one just like it right now. One thing I must say there is a small o'ring & flat washer that goes on the fuel mixture screw on top of the spring. O'ring is very small. What I do most of the time is drop the o'ring down in the hole first and move it in place with a small pick then drop the washer - spring then screw the fuel screw in. I have found a lot of times if you stack them all together and try to slid everything in the hole the o'ring will snag and roll off to one side of the fuel screw..
Thanks mate. Just did my 00 klr250 carb & this came in handy. It would only run on choke. My pilot & main jets were blocked after 5yrs storage. Soaked for 2days then used a wire strand off a wire brush to clean them. Runs great now. Full service next. Cheers Rod...
This is one of if not the best carburetor rebuild guide I have ever seen!
Wow,thanks!
Apart from his hand being In front of the camera most of the time
Man you have saved me so much of a headache, I'm working on my 2003 kawasaki vulcan 1500 classic and it's my first carb rebuild and I had a random spring pop out and because of your video I found out where it went and found that I put the diaphragm back together wrong!
Awesome! Glad this helped!
@@SevenFortyOne how many mm is this carb?
Nice just bought a 96 klr 250 , now cleaning the carb , thank you
Maybe somehow mine is different but I think your telling people wrong about the diaphragm pin I put the clip then the pin then the spring and it runs like a champ so I’m not sure what happened
good video, had 4 of these on a 4cyl racecar and could not find whats the modelname on them, needed to set idle as last owner just drove it full gas constantly
Is this a 30mm?
I know this is an older video, but I’m hoping to get a response. That rubber plug towards the end of the video that fits over the front of the carb. How important is that? Because the KLR250 I recently bought does not have it. It is having the same problems as you did, i followed the video and cleaned up the carb and hopefully it works out good. Thank you for a very detailed vid.
I think you need it or something equivalent to block that opening or the bike won't run right.
It gives support to the carb. Look at the bottom of the bowl and you will see where it rests.
Why didn't you check float level ?
Thanks - your videos are awesome, step by step really helps!
I apologize for the delayed response but I really appreciate your support - thank you!
Totally random. I just clicked on your channel and saw that I have previously seen some of your ham radio videos. Haha. You're such a nerd. In the best possible way of course.
Yessir...I'm definitely a nerd no question about that
Idk if someone will respond but why my klr250 is leaking from overflow while the fuel valve is closed and when it sits for more than 3min it just shuts down can someone help?
My klr didnt start yesterday ,maybe 50 kickstart attempt. I pushed in 2 gear and start . Sometime doesnt start easy some time start very easy .iş there commen like this problem ? What ı Should do for first kick start ?
Hard to say without being there myself....
Hello Where is the air adjustment screw?
Just bought a klr 250 , 1999 . When it runs fuel runs out the overflow. Stuck floats ?
Probably....hard to say for sure. Could be a bad fuel shut off too
Float might not be adjusted properly either. Adjust your float so it's even with the float bowl
That is so weird! I just bought a 99' KLR250 this week and having the same problem as you
Great pictures of the back of your hand n holding the carb up out of view check it before you put it on screen
Where's your video?
Any idea why my 1995 KLR250 sputters at 5k rpm's and above in any gear? This started occurring after I overhauled my carb because it was leaking fuel a few years ago. The bike hasn't ran well since. It does run fine up to 5k then it starts cutting out past that. I've torn apart the carb several times and recleaned it, dipped it in cleaner, thoroughly but to no avail. I can't find the problem. Do you think it could be the diaphragm? I know that if there's even a microscopic tear or rip in one, it will affect it's performance. And do you know where I can purchase a new carb for the KLR250? Thanks much!
Could be the diaphragm....or maybe something isn't quite going together right but isn't obvious. Another problem could be a small air leak in the airbox or someplace like that...these carbs are very sensitive to that. Also check to make sure you have the right parts in your carb...maybe the rebuild kit wasn't quite right.
Dude, I got same thing, you mess with timing at all? fixed with a rebuild of the carb? yeah 3 years later I know
Just bought one what does the clear line run to mine was leaking fuel from there hose us gone air box was half full of fuel carb was just leaking fuel thanks
Your float needle is probably stuck filling the bowl too much.
Mine don’t have the idle needle that yours has, it just capped pressed closed. :/ ?
I had a Yamaha with that pressed in there, it's so the factory settings aren't messed with. You gotta drill em out to get the the idle adjustment screw
You are good man !👏
Where does the yellow hose go?
I't just an overflow tube. It routes down behind the carb someplace and just hangs with end near the bottom of the engine.
It's hard to tell from this video, but is your "master jet" (the larger of the 2) being screwed down all the way where no threads are left exposed? When I went to reassemble; I noticed the jet doesn't screw all the way down like the other, but it seems like I would have to force it to go down any further.
I'm taking apart this same carburetor and when I put it back together and turn my fuel petcock ON, it just floods instantly and starts coming out of the carb drain hose-- EVEN with the drain screw closed tight. Maybe something wrong with the jet not being screwed down? the float and needle valve seem to be working fine. I haven't had a lot of spare time to sit and fiddle with it-- im sure I'll get it.. just wondering if it's something you experienced during your carb cleaning. Hope you got your bike running smooth. thanks
The problem you describe sounds like a float/needle valve problem to me. Check to make sure the seat for the needle valve is clean and free from debris. I don't remember what everything looks like in there but you really shouldn't have to force anything to get it to the jets to seat right. But even if they are out of whack, the float, needle, and seat should stop any fule from flowing once the bowl is full of fuel.
There are exploded diagrams on the internet that may help you see what thinks should look like when assembled...look for the KLR20 information page and you should also find a write-up with pictures and explanation of the carb's opeartion.
My bike is running good now, but the fork seals are leaking and getting oil all over the front brake so I haven't been riding it this summer...haven't had time to address the problem yet. Hopefully I'll be back out on the trails this fall.
Good luck with your project!
John R Did you work it out ? Mines doing this , can’t figure it out
@@SevenFortyOne hey thank yo for the reply, I never saw your response in my notifications. I can't actually say for sure what I did that worked I just kept taking it apart and putting it back together and then one time i fired it up and it was running without any issue. Only thing I could think is that the metal tab that hold the needle valve might have been bent and holding the valve from closing all the way. Either way thank you for the reply wish I saw it lol take care
@@thetorquingpoint8936 yea I never saw the OPs response and I'm sorry this info isn't super helpful , but I ended up just literally taking the carburetor apart like a half dozen times and putting all the parts back together, and then it just stopped leaking and ran great, all I could think is maybe I was installing the needle valve in backward or something. I ended up buying a 2nd carburetor off Amazon out of frustration, it was only around $40, just make sure the carb has the same inlet and outlet diameter and you should be good. I got the OEM carb running before the new one showed up lol typical, but I tried the Chinese aftermarket and they both worked fine. ( I did have to Jerry rig the aftermarket carb since it wasn't designed specifically for my Mojave ,250 , but I left it on for a couple weeks before putting the OEM back on and it worked fine, hope this helps)
great job looking good
At 1:54 what is that? You call it "little guy" is that a jet that should be see through? Mine is not.
That's the emulsion tube, the main jet screws into the end of it. The emulsion tube leans off the air fuel ratio as the air flow goes up.
If the emulsion tube side holes are blocked the air fuel ratio will be too rich.
@@richardrichard5409 thank yku
i need help w my klr 250 i bought it to rebuild with my son but i'm over my head
Ok...what kind of help?
Does anyone know where the yellow hose goes?
@@madpivot123 😆
Great video yet somewhat annoying. You went through in really good detail yet your hand was in the way so much it was hard to see what you were doing. Thanks though for making the video. I appreciate it
You are right - I had some poor camera angles here and that bothered me too. I decided to release the video anyway figuring something was better than nothing.
Be good if you didn’t keep taking the carb out of shot or keep putting your hand in between the camera and carb
Well i had mine running great it got stolen I got it back and they messed with it
Glad you got it back! But too bad they screwed it up
@@SevenFortyOne yeah I just got it cleaned and I'm putting it back on the bike but I'm having trouble with the intake hose and I was holding the Kickstart down and it slipped out of my hand and uppercut me
Good video but "put this little fella in here "doesn't really help us novices no more "than put this over this er fitting" .I came on and went away happier but it could have helped if you would have told us which jet /screw was and what they were for . You see when I stripped mine down I broke a part and have no idea which one .
This is waste of the video I know how to take it apart and put together I tought this video is about rebuild
You've got to be kidding right? WTF do you think rebuilding a carb is exactly? Dumbass. Jeez/