Great vid! 5 minute job, and this solved the mystery of my intermittent cruise control failure on my 1993 C2500 Suburban. For others, if your cruise cuts out or won't come on at all, troubleshoot by lifting up on the brake pedal (using your foot) while setting the cruise. If it stays on and then cuts out once you remove your foot, this switch is the culprit!
Just wanted to thank you for this video. Solved my brake warning light issue as well as my TCC lockup issue. Trans was running hot for a long time and I could not figure out why. Trans temps are now almost 60 degrees cooler on the highway! I had trouble figuring out how to secure the switch to keep it from moving with the brake pedal but eventually got it. Thanks again!
Great information thank you i have a 1995 suburban 350 tbi with 4l60e transmission i have no overdrive the tcc is not getting lock up also abs light is on and i have no cruise control this is the simplest fix for all those problems thank you for the information
I have an '88 Chevy 2500 with the brake lights always on. I found out that probably means the brake light switch is bad, but then I couldn't figure out how to get the switch out. I couldn't find no stinking clip! Your video was a big help, but it's still a real booger to get the new one put in - to get the square tab on the switch into that sheet metal slot. But without your video I wouldn't even be this far along. I never would have guessed that a brake light switch could make a problem with the torque converter. Or that the small lever on the brake light switch makes your turn signal blink. Or maybe it's not supposed to? It's mind boggling sometimes...
Thank you very much I went out and bought a new clip but that wasn't it the orange wire I believe that goes to the brake light didn't have any power so I cut it and I spliced it direct because thanks for your help I knew that that wire had to have power and that fixed my problem thank you very
My brake switch has failed twice(94 GMC) and both times the contact broke off inside switch and backfed the wiring harness keeping the fuel solenoid (diesel engine)energized with ignition off which leaves engine running . Very irritating but if it happens to you maybe this comment will help you.
I have 89 also so if you put the switch on and it does not work I put my new one on but for some reason changed your fuse 15 that says break and 15 that you have that’s what fixed mine after I put my switch on, originally I changed 20 & 5 fuse first because I went off the diagram and then the back bulbs all 3, on each light, I hope 🙏🏾 this help some one ❤ 💯
I think it does. There's a pigtail plug that comes off the green and grey wires to the brake light switch, that goes down to the switch that turns off your cruise control when you tap the brakes. I had to take the cruise control switch and bracket out in order to get to the brake light switch.
1991 Chevy Silverado 1500 2WD. I have running lights, backup lights and both turn signals working. But no break lights and no emergency flasher lights. Already replaced brake switch, fuses and bulbs. Still no brake lights. No bad grounds found. We have tried just about everything we can think of. We need the break lights to pass the inspection. Do turn signal lights and brake lights share the same circuit on older vehicles? Could it be a bad turn signal switch even though the turn signals work fine?
@James Franks if the clip youre referring to is the one you can see at 2:38. The rectangle shape in the middle yes it does matter! That part pops into some sub frame and allows the internal spring to have something to push off of without pivoting the whole deal lol. It might not solve your problem but it matters!
Great video! All the others on TH-cam show the GM brake switch that uses a metal clip. One question though - how do you set the adjustable tab once the switch is installed?
I believe you can find PDF versions of the repair manual and wiring diagrams on the internet for free - I've seen them... ME? I purchased the repair manuals from GM when I bought the car in 1992. Cost me a bit over $100 back then...
Non Rustic no it’s your brake switch, you don’t have to replace them . You pull it out, open it up clean all the prongs (sand them gently) be careful there is a spring in there. Put it back together and done works 9 out of 10 times
I have a 90 1500 with the same style switch. I have no brake lights. Replaced the switch and still no lights. I see from the schematic that the brake lights might run through the turn signal switch. Any ideas on how I might troubleshoot?
I'm not a mechanic (I am a mechanical engineer with 5 cars - all older than 10 years...). That said - according to the schematic - the white wire which comes out of the brake light switch should be HOT (have positive voltage) once the brake pedal is pushed - whether the key is turned on or not. So - you need to get some sort of electrical test equipment of your choice (there is one on Amazon for under $6: Professional 6-12V Circuit Tester - Indicator Light - Lifetime Warranty by Industrial Tools ) Once you have your "probe" - with a sharp edge (your choice - be careful) shave off "just a bit" of the white wire insulation (you will have to use electrical tape to wrap it back up when done). Then, attach the alligator clip from the probe to "ground" (part of the body's frame which will eventually be connected to the negative pole on the battery) - then have someone push on the brake pedal while you are touching the "tip" of the probe onto the "exposed" wire inside the white insulation. If you can't get the light on the probe to go on - then you are not getting any power out of the brake light switch. If you DO have power - then you know it is not the switch... The electrical wiring book for these vehicles are on line if you search for them. I'm sure this is not the "approved solution" - but it is what I did when I was initially diagnosing the problem...
Folks - just go to rockauto.com - EASY... I search for my car year and model, looked under Electrical-Switch & Relay and then under Brake light switch... I bought the STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS SLS154T T-Series for about $8 or you could buy the ACDELCO D806A {#15961519} GM Original Equipment for about $12 - plus shipping...
My '93 Sierra had the same problem - brake lights on all the time. Replacing the brake light switch at the brake pedal solved the problem. I opened the original [faulty] switch and found several of the electrical contacts bent!
@@jamesfranks3267 i doubt it. Do you have a tester probe light? I scraped my white wire heading into the switch and touched it to the bare wire. showed me that theres power to it. Second my ground wire on the rear by the bumper was hanging on by a thread.. Maybe check there.
I'm giving this thumbs down and here's why: The premise to this video seemingly was to understand how to access the switch and I am assuming to replace it. As Jeffrey mentioned before, the video goes off into rambling dissertation of the wiring schematic and other useless information while neglecting to understand how to install a new one. The installation is much trickier than removal. Attention needs to be made to line up the slots on the left side of the switch and slide them like a bayonet into the steel body brace slotted for that purpose. Additionally at the base of the switch is a slide lever and I found I needed to push this towards the driver to prevent the brake light from staying on. Also removing the (2) plugs from a 30 year old switch required using pliers to pull the plug out without damaging it. They used some pretty shoddy plastics in those days.
Dude, give me a thumbs down... How to reinstall was soon after how to take it out. The "rambling" was later in the video for folks who were trying to track down what the different color of wires were for. Sorry you had difficulty. I don't do this for money...
@@ericzimmerman7775 this video helped me. I’m trying to fix the brake lights on my kids friend’s truck. I did not realize that was the brake light switch. His truck has a separate button on the pedal shaft. Thanks.
I dunno buddy, I seen a lot of youtube videos and this one is pretty clear/concise. The switch is literally clipped into place, how much install info do you really need. Anyway, not trying to be a dick, hope you got your rig fixed. Cheers.
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( June 15/2023 . ) thanks , the best video on You Tube for this part replacement !
this is the most to-the-point and easy to understand video to solve the problem so far on you Tube. Good presentation Mr. Zimmerman.
I bought a 1993 GMC Sierra 1500 last year and I could never figure out why cruise didn't work. Well this switch fixed that and fixed the TCC lock up
Kept getting sidetracked by how nice your suburban looks. Thanks for a great video.
Great vid! 5 minute job, and this solved the mystery of my intermittent cruise control failure on my 1993 C2500 Suburban. For others, if your cruise cuts out or won't come on at all, troubleshoot by lifting up on the brake pedal (using your foot) while setting the cruise. If it stays on and then cuts out once you remove your foot, this switch is the culprit!
Michael White - great! Victory is always sweet! Especially when you figure it out yourself...
Victory is always sweet! Especially when you figure it out yourself...
exactly what i wanted to hear, thanks buddy!!
Just wanted to thank you for this video. Solved my brake warning light issue as well as my TCC lockup issue. Trans was running hot for a long time and I could not figure out why. Trans temps are now almost 60 degrees cooler on the highway! I had trouble figuring out how to secure the switch to keep it from moving with the brake pedal but eventually got it. Thanks again!
Glad it was helpful
I do videos when I find a problem which I cannot find explained elsewhere
😎
@@ericzimmerman7775 What is "the TCC"?
@@recytcontable1770 torque converter clutch
Thanks for the video. I was looking under the dash and could NOT find that darn brake light unit until I got to your video.
Great information thank you i have a 1995 suburban 350 tbi with 4l60e transmission i have no overdrive the tcc is not getting lock up also abs light is on and i have no cruise control this is the simplest fix for all those problems thank you for the information
thank you sir !!! i have to pull mine out and was thinking it was rocket science! the clip thats attached to the brake pedal broke off.
Thanks a ton I overlooked the square hole in the sheet metal! Works great now!
This is awesome thank you for the video. This might be something I can fix myself.
Helped alot. Thanks. Couldn't figure out how it was held on there. Didn't know you just pull down. Great info
Glad to hear it!
Sweet thanks..was baffled on how to undo the clips to test the switch..
I have an '88 Chevy 2500 with the brake lights always on. I found out that probably means the brake light switch is bad, but then I couldn't figure out how to get the switch out. I couldn't find no stinking clip! Your video was a big help, but it's still a real booger to get the new one put in - to get the square tab on the switch into that sheet metal slot. But without your video I wouldn't even be this far along. I never would have guessed that a brake light switch could make a problem with the torque converter. Or that the small lever on the brake light switch makes your turn signal blink. Or maybe it's not supposed to? It's mind boggling sometimes...
Thank you very much I went out and bought a new clip but that wasn't it the orange wire I believe that goes to the brake light didn't have any power so I cut it and I spliced it direct because thanks for your help I knew that that wire had to have power and that fixed my problem thank you very
My brake switch has failed twice(94 GMC) and both times the contact broke off inside switch and backfed the wiring harness keeping the fuel solenoid (diesel engine)energized with ignition off which leaves engine running . Very irritating but if it happens to you maybe this comment will help you.
I have 89 also so if you put the switch on and it does not work I put my new one on but for some reason changed your fuse 15 that says break and 15 that you have that’s what fixed mine after I put my switch on, originally I changed 20 & 5 fuse first because I went off the diagram and then the back bulbs all 3,
on each light, I hope 🙏🏾 this help some one ❤ 💯
Perfect video, saved me a bunch of time. Thanks.
Thanks for sharing. Hopefully will work on my 1991 Silverado PU.
Super..it fixed my problem by checking out this youtube clip
Directly to the point
This is a helpful video. Thank you so much.
Where you find the schematic for the brake switch I have a 88'
I think this switch gives power to the cruise control. When brakes pressed, turns off power turning off cruise...
I think it does. There's a pigtail plug that comes off the green and grey wires to the brake light switch, that goes down to the switch that turns off your cruise control when you tap the brakes. I had to take the cruise control switch and bracket out in order to get to the brake light switch.
Your assumption is correct. :)
You saved me so much thank you
This video helped a bunch. Thank you.
Where is the fuse for that brake system located?
This may be the switch that would not allowed to go out of park?
So I’ve got reverse blinkers but no brake lights or emergency, I’ve replaced the brake switch and a new wiring harness what could it be next ?
1991 Chevy Silverado 1500 2WD. I have running lights, backup lights and both turn signals working. But no break lights and no emergency flasher lights. Already replaced brake switch, fuses and bulbs. Still no brake lights. No bad grounds found. We have tried just about everything we can think of. We need the break lights to pass the inspection. Do turn signal lights and brake lights share the same circuit on older vehicles? Could it be a bad turn signal switch even though the turn signals work fine?
Did u find the solution to fixing the no brake lights?
Dude! Thank you!
How to get the cruise control switch off? It's in the way of the brake switch.
Also, I'm from the future 2024 and these are now $22
How the heck u get it back in
@James Franks if the clip youre referring to is the one you can see at 2:38. The rectangle shape in the middle yes it does matter! That part pops into some sub frame and allows the internal spring to have something to push off of without pivoting the whole deal lol. It might not solve your problem but it matters!
Great video! All the others on TH-cam show the GM brake switch that uses a metal clip. One question though - how do you set the adjustable tab once the switch is installed?
Watch the video
The switch fits into the sheet metal and you pull it down once the clip fits in the hole - setting it in place
I have a problem with my truck ! Only one of my brakes lights is working ! Only one , bulb is good , wire is good , i dont know whats wrong wiith it ?
Great video thank you! What manuals do you have with those wiring schematics?
I believe you can find PDF versions of the repair manual and wiring diagrams on the internet for free - I've seen them... ME? I purchased the repair manuals from GM when I bought the car in 1992. Cost me a bit over $100 back then...
@@ericzimmerman7775 i would love to get a copy a few wiring diagrams out that manual
I have a 1989 Chevy 1500. My taillights ans blinkers work, but brake lights don't work. Do you think replacing this thing is what I need to do?
check your fuse first! With a test light.
where did u order the switch for $8?!
Www.rockauto.com
My 93 gmc has tail lights but no signal in rear, or break light. So flash relay and break switch need replacing?
Non Rustic no it’s your brake switch, you don’t have to replace them . You pull it out, open it up clean all the prongs (sand them gently) be careful there is a spring in there. Put it back together and done works 9 out of 10 times
Thatx you are rite i replaced it, i broke the existing one mucking with it.
I have a 90 1500 with the same style switch. I have no brake lights. Replaced the switch and still no lights. I see from the schematic that the brake lights might run through the turn signal switch. Any ideas on how I might troubleshoot?
I'm not a mechanic (I am a mechanical engineer with 5 cars - all older than 10 years...). That said - according to the schematic - the white wire which comes out of the brake light switch should be HOT (have positive voltage) once the brake pedal is pushed - whether the key is turned on or not. So - you need to get some sort of electrical test equipment of your choice
(there is one on Amazon for under $6: Professional 6-12V Circuit Tester - Indicator Light - Lifetime Warranty by Industrial Tools )
Once you have your "probe" - with a sharp edge (your choice - be careful) shave off "just a bit" of the white wire insulation (you will have to use electrical tape to wrap it back up when done). Then, attach the alligator clip from the probe to "ground" (part of the body's frame which will eventually be connected to the negative pole on the battery) - then have someone push on the brake pedal while you are touching the "tip" of the probe onto the "exposed" wire inside the white insulation. If you can't get the light on the probe to go on - then you are not getting any power out of the brake light switch. If you DO have power - then you know it is not the switch... The electrical wiring book for these vehicles are on line if you search for them. I'm sure this is not the "approved solution" - but it is what I did when I was initially diagnosing the problem...
@@ericzimmerman7775 Where did you get your schematic? The Chiltons I have is not very good, I need the one you have. Thankyou, Brent
Im sorry, I just saw you got the manuals from GM, I will try and find them, Thankyou!!!
Can you please send me a photo of the front cover, there are a few out there, propworkswest@aol.com Thankyou so much
What is the part number and make of this item?
Reed Christenson..... I'm having the same problem its cheap on ebay
Folks - just go to rockauto.com - EASY... I search for my car year and model, looked under Electrical-Switch & Relay and then under Brake light switch... I bought the STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS SLS154T T-Series for about $8 or you could buy the ACDELCO D806A {#15961519} GM Original Equipment for about $12 - plus shipping...
ACDelco D806A, or GM Part No 15961519. $18 on Amazon.
The breaklights on my 89 stay on even when the truck is off regurdless of wether I'm holding the brakes or not.. I wonder that could be my fix ?
Probably the switch
My '93 Sierra had the same problem - brake lights on all the time. Replacing the brake light switch at the brake pedal solved the problem. I opened the original [faulty] switch and found several of the electrical contacts bent!
Podria compartir los diagramas o manual de servicio?
I have a 98 Chevy c1500 no brake lights or the 3rd brake light. I’ve replaced the switch and still have nothing. Anyone know what it could be?
Do u have a trailer adapter? If so the wiring could be shotty. On mine the water from the bed ran straight over the weak point
I don’t have the retaining clip on the brake switch. Reckon that could have something to do with it?
@@jamesfranks3267 i doubt it. Do you have a tester probe light? I scraped my white wire heading into the switch and touched it to the bare wire. showed me that theres power to it. Second my ground wire on the rear by the bumper was hanging on by a thread.. Maybe check there.
I’m gonna check the wires back there and see. My hazard lights work so I know the brake lights work
@@jamesfranks3267 my bad ground came off near the middle of the bumper. Around where the license plate light wires unite with the rest of the wires
Be nice to actually show how you put it back in correctly besides describing verbally. Little confusing but I guess reverse replacement.
Buffering, buffering, buffering. Endlessly. Other videos play no problem. UTube and it's issues. Waste of time.
I'm giving this thumbs down and here's why: The premise to this video seemingly was to understand how to access the switch and I am assuming to replace it. As Jeffrey mentioned before, the video goes off into rambling dissertation of the wiring schematic and other useless information while neglecting to understand how to install a new one. The installation is much trickier than removal. Attention needs to be made to line up the slots on the left side of the switch and slide them like a bayonet into the steel body brace slotted for that purpose. Additionally at the base of the switch is a slide lever and I found I needed to push this towards the driver to prevent the brake light from staying on. Also removing the (2) plugs from a 30 year old switch required using pliers to pull the plug out without damaging it. They used some pretty shoddy plastics in those days.
Dude, give me a thumbs down... How to reinstall was soon after how to take it out. The "rambling" was later in the video for folks who were trying to track down what the different color of wires were for. Sorry you had difficulty. I don't do this for money...
Don Hindman…. You are a dickhead! I bet your friend list is short!
@@ericzimmerman7775 this video helped me. I’m trying to fix the brake lights on my kids friend’s truck. I did not realize that was the brake light switch. His truck has a separate button on the pedal shaft. Thanks.
I dunno buddy, I seen a lot of youtube videos and this one is pretty clear/concise. The switch is literally clipped into place, how much install info do you really need. Anyway, not trying to be a dick, hope you got your rig fixed. Cheers.