A note of caution about pushing baseboards tight to the floor: If your floor substrate has some flex (plywood over joists), when you walk on the floor, the underlying structure flexes. If the baseboard is installed tight to the finish floor, you will hear loud creaking and popping sounds as the floor flexes against the baseboard. I highly recommend leaving a gap around 1mm between the finished floor and the bottom of the baseboards in these cases. If the gap bothers you, install some thin shoe moulding tight to the floor, which is small and light enough to not snap and pop.
I always find the stud before I install the base. Just pound a nail in the wall below the top of the base. Then mark with pencil on floor or use a piece of tape if finish floor is down
Window edges also have king and jack studs you can use as a reference. In between these, it's not necessarily 16 inches oc. Sometimes framers even out the spaces to get at least 16in oc but even spaces. In reality, as a professional carpenter, I don't care about hitting a stud to install 3/8 colonial trim (which is what 90% of people have). I just nail at a 45. When I have metal studs it doesn't matter anyway if I'd hit the stud or not. I'd be supposed to glue the trim. But I don't. Hush, don't tell anyone ;) it will look good for 15-20 years until the customer replaces his flooring and that's all what matters.
Ah, so you're that fuck that I clean up after. You need to glue your trim joints at a minimum, and if you expect something to stay in place for 20 years nailed at 45 into drywall, you're delusional.
My favorite stud finders are magnets from old computer hard disk drives. They’re flat, so slide over the wall easily. I add a strip of tape to the sliding side so I don’t scuff the paint as I move around the wall. Once I find the stud I do a semi circular motion at the bottom of the magnet to get the exact location of the nail. This assumes the nail was centered on the stud, that’s the case.
99% of the time an electrical box is going to be attached to the right side of a stud because most people are right handed and it's easier to hammer a plug in from the right side of you are.
@@seanmayo206 Yes, you can but it wouldn't put the stud on the left side of the box then would it? But don't listen to me I wouldn't know, I'm only a journeyman electrician.
Found your videos recently and subscribed! I enjoy your videos and they are easy to understand and follow. I am a new home owner and I am looking into learning more about repairing my home and these techniques. Could you make a video on the "proper order" of repairs or something? For example if you're redoing a room, and wanting to essentially repair the walls (Skim coating?) ceiling with orange/popcorn (skim coat) and base boards, and even replacing carpet to a a wood or other surface? Sorry for the newbie questions, I like the videos you have been posting but I am just not sure of the "proper order" when you're eventually going to do it all?
Its not just “in america” Its however people do it. I still see people doing normal straight cuts for corners. Depending on the type of base I would cut inside corners with 45s. As long as it looks good at the overall glance of the room, its good to go.
i would like to see in your video about how to cut baseboards your favorite methods for scribing to floors. i don't like using corner round to cover gap at bottom. I prefer a tight fit to uneven floors with the actual base when possible.
Unfortunately this won't work in our old ginger bread house. Studs are every 15-18 inches (saw 20 also). Walls aren't straight either, just the way it was built. It could use some mud framing.
I like a stupid strong magnet wrapped in fresh blue tape to find the screws holding the drywall and do the 16" trick with random checks to make sure I'm hitting studs.
Generally when you find one screw or nail, search 16 inches over at about the same height. Drywall installers tend to install screws at the same height across the wall.
What if theres wooden panel? What do you do then? Maybe it's not so important when you are putting on trim, but let's say you're hanging something heavy on the wall?
I tried my younger brothers skateboard once and it was the first time I did a full circle in the air the board was gone and my ass and elbow were fu.. Ben you obviously spent a miss guided youth🤠👍😂🔨
Ty Kellerman a skateboard is how I broke my tailbone the first time 😂 2nd was roller skates, 3rd was roller blades 😂 I guess I'm one of those who was only meant to be flat footed to the ground 😂
Steel toe shoes scratch brand new flooring... and 3 pounds hanging on each foot for 40 years is a total nonsense. Over the run of my career, I'd rather have 5 nails running through my sole and drop 5 sheets of drywall on my toes than having a knee or hip replaced at 50.
xavytex while I agree about no steel toe boots on flooring, i wear my ST/SP boots everywhere I go, they are comfy and the weight is nothing. Your calf and foot weighs a lot more than the boot does..
16in ...pffff ya sure... :P Seriously... very valid starting point, but too often, in older buildings, I find 12in, or misaligned 16in. So in additioni to all the good tricks you mentionned, I don't bother measuring and I use a Franklin stud finder... for baseboards, for counter top headboard and kitchen cabinet. And of course I use 2-3 times as much nails as you do, cause I use 23ga (hehehe) - ahhh... and you got the Cadex 21ga, looks pretty new, not cheap but they work so well. I got the 23ga... actually I got it from a store in Coquitlam that you probably know, Woodworker Specialties, great service from Bob. Tease question... do you need to fill the 21ga nail's holes? Nice skateboarding... you're almost as good with it as you are with your trowel ***LOL*** :D cheers.
@@claudews529 this could be a noob question but does paint alone have the filling power to get rid of 23ga nail holes? Can you just skip spackling? If not, what's the point to using 23 over 18?
re the 16" rule. Do builders adjust that to more evenly fit in wall width? As a DIY I would measure width & divide to find the closest measurement to 16" that works. e.g. it might be 14" spaces that work evenly. The pros do this or do they stick to 16" with a narrower final spacing?
Would the 16in rule still apply to older houses? My mother's home is about a hundred years old and we're doing some renovations, presently we're dealing with some Cabinetry, if we get to the molding and baseboards and such is there anything else we need to keep in mind?
My hundred year old house has 16 spacing. If anything. it is better for finding studs, because they cut 2x4s almost to real measurement, not the 1.5 by 3.5 of modern studs.
An older home like that may have plaster and lath on the walls. It can be very difficult to find the studs through all that material. Lath is not strong enough to hold kitchen cabinets and you need to find the studs. You can remove a little bit of material by the bottom of the wall to find the studs. One house I worked in the studs had petrified and I had to use a hammer drill to screw into them. Good luck!
@@martylts That is so true... I had forgotten about lath... my stud finder would be so useless :( - "removing a bit of material at the bottom"... good idea... (thinking...)... at the bottom, use a drill with a small bit, find a first stud, then test 16in (and 12in if no 16in). Cheers
Sometimes the small drill bit would hit lath and feel like I hit a stud. You are right about the stud finder. I had a real fancy one at the time and it might as well have Shrugged its shoulders and looked at me funny every time I set it against the wall :-)
@@martylts "Sometimes the small drill bit would hit lath and feel like I hit a stud." :) very true :) That's why, and I should have mentionned it, I would drill deeper than an inch... ... Drilling is my less destructive approach in last ressource. Cheers.
I've heard you aren't supposed to cut long and "snap in" when you're up against a door casing because the base will eventually push the door casing over. Is that all BS?
@@claudews529 size doesn't matter stick it in the other hole... I mean just use 2 lenghts of your nailer. you should mark 8 inches exactly on your gun.
Miter the inside corners!.....AHAHAAAAAaaa...NOT! When I walk into a project all I have to do is look at the inside Corners to find out if it's a finish Carpenter or a bad Carpenter. Inside miters tell me BAD Carpenter! As far as 16in on Center, I had to tear open a wall in a basement that was framed and drywalled about a year ago and they're not even close to 16 inches on Center. A lot of them are between 1 and 2 in off or right on the mark just to be totally inconsistent. Otherwise, your Technique is pretty good for finding studs for baseboard s
You don't say! You had to tear down the wall to find the studs!?!?!?!? LOL - "1-2in off".... same here.... and twisted walls because they did not put any horizontal midway cross between studs... bah... some useless craftmen. cheers.
@@claudews529 sorry for some confusion. I removed drywall to change the plumbing location. Instead of the left and the right stud being 8 feet apart they are 94 in so I have to cut a couple inches, luckily, off of a full sheet of drywall that measures 8 feet
@@martylts ahahahaha.... no confusion... I was simply kidding.... my attempt for humour :D - as for the 94in .... this year, in all the apts I renovated, I had the same issue.. Cheers
@@davidpalmer8419 professional finish carpenters use a cope cut for inside corners. This can be done with a coping hand saw, a jigsaw with a coping foot, or a grinder with a sanding wheel on MDF trim. There are two advantages of using this technique. I can measure an entire house and do all my cuts and then install them. I could not do that if I used miter cuts. some would be too long and some would be too short. The other advantage is miter cuts tend to open up and coping cut to do not. I'm working in a basement that was partially finished by the contractor who built the house a little over a year ago. All the inside corners have gaps that need to be filled with caulk.
Claude WS when someone told me that I said the same thing but no you can find the screw in the stud really fast. It’s a ball Neodymium magnet Wrapped in silicone or some type of strong robber with a finger hole and you slide it around the wall till you hit a screw and it grabs it really good then you just go straight down like you were saying when you eye it up from a nail pop
If you get one I’m telling you you’ll wonder how you ever lived without one lol j/k but it’s awesome cause it’s very light lighter than any studfinder and you can just put in ur pocket
![[DRIP] ‘Love, Maybe’ PREVIEW](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/U7hwHp95m1k/mqdefault.jpg)
I never miss one of your videos. I'm 68 and enjoy learning new tricks of the trade. Helps me on my work as a maintenance Man
Carpentry is carpentry.
Tricks are 4 kids
A note of caution about pushing baseboards tight to the floor: If your floor substrate has some flex (plywood over joists), when you walk on the floor, the underlying structure flexes. If the baseboard is installed tight to the finish floor, you will hear loud creaking and popping sounds as the floor flexes against the baseboard. I highly recommend leaving a gap around 1mm between the finished floor and the bottom of the baseboards in these cases. If the gap bothers you, install some thin shoe moulding tight to the floor, which is small and light enough to not snap and pop.
I always find the stud before I install the base. Just pound a nail in the wall below the top of the base. Then mark with pencil on floor or use a piece of tape if finish floor is down
And iron the piece out rather than arbitrarily nailing all over.
We finally get to see you kickflip! 😃🙌
Thanks Ben. You have been such a help to me and my brother as we fix up our parents house for them without having to pay someone else to do it.
I knew that trick but love seeing how others do it. You can always learn more.
Saw the Vans, thought hmm wonder if he is a skat... question answered, hero status reinforced.
Window edges also have king and jack studs you can use as a reference. In between these, it's not necessarily 16 inches oc. Sometimes framers even out the spaces to get at least 16in oc but even spaces. In reality, as a professional carpenter, I don't care about hitting a stud to install 3/8 colonial trim (which is what 90% of people have). I just nail at a 45. When I have metal studs it doesn't matter anyway if I'd hit the stud or not. I'd be supposed to glue the trim. But I don't. Hush, don't tell anyone ;) it will look good for 15-20 years until the customer replaces his flooring and that's all what matters.
Ah, so you're that fuck that I clean up after. You need to glue your trim joints at a minimum, and if you expect something to stay in place for 20 years nailed at 45 into drywall, you're delusional.
I really enjoy learning from a pro.Always can learn something new. Keep it going VCC
Thanks David!
couple questions 1-what size nail do you use and 2 are you cutting you baseboard 1/2 long and that is why it goes in at a bow until you nail it.
My favorite stud finders are magnets from old computer hard disk drives. They’re flat, so slide over the wall easily. I add a strip of tape to the sliding side so I don’t scuff the paint as I move around the wall. Once I find the stud I do a semi circular motion at the bottom of the magnet to get the exact location of the nail. This assumes the nail was centered on the stud, that’s the case.
Didn't know Canadians skated! Thanks for the vids very helpful stuff.
Really appreciate watching your videos. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Threading... Awesome technique! Thanks
Zk
Super helpful. Thank you!! Why gun and nail size are you using??
99% of the time an electrical box is going to be attached to the right side of a stud because most people are right handed and it's easier to hammer a plug in from the right side of you are.
Levi never thought of it that way.. but I do always put them on the right when I can come to think of it..
Hey u can flip the box dummy
Yall know shit bout building on America
@@seanmayo206 Yes, you can but it wouldn't put the stud on the left side of the box then would it? But don't listen to me I wouldn't know, I'm only a journeyman electrician.
I have had 2 houses were it flips sides, so my mileage is way different. damn south paws lol
Come on Ben, that piece of baseboard was too long for that spot
where is the spacing for the wood to work?
Just give me a mirror and I can find a stud in no time at all.
Always keep a super magnet attached to your compressor. It is a great tool for finding screws in studs, yet can't go in tool boxes or toolbelts well.
is that a foursquare shirt!? also do you ever use 18g for baseboard? or do you prefer the 21g
Found your videos recently and subscribed! I enjoy your videos and they are easy to understand and follow.
I am a new home owner and I am looking into learning more about repairing my home and these techniques.
Could you make a video on the "proper order" of repairs or something? For example if you're redoing a room, and wanting to essentially repair the walls (Skim coating?) ceiling with orange/popcorn (skim coat) and base boards, and even replacing carpet to a a wood or other surface?
Sorry for the newbie questions, I like the videos you have been posting but I am just not sure of the "proper order" when you're eventually going to do it all?
Hands down best Vancouver Carpenter video ever.
Wicked scar on your right forearm. Skate accident? Oh, and thanks for the vids. Super helpful!
Here in ‘ Murica you’d have to cut those corners at 45 • angles , I personally think it looks better than living them uncut
Its not just “in america”
Its however people do it. I still see people doing normal straight cuts for corners. Depending on the type of base I would cut inside corners with 45s. As long as it looks good at the overall glance of the room, its good to go.
What size nails do you use? Great video btw
Thank you bro...much appreciated...definitely enjoying the content‼💯‼
very talented Ben. love the video.
Thank you Alejandro!!
Great tips, with some great humor! Thanks!
Great videos, good instruction, right to the point of topic, I've learned some great tips. Keep it up, love the goofy outros
Glad you made this video, I just happen to need to find a stud but have no stud finder
Hey Vancouver carpenter ! Love your videos man , what’s your service area in the lower mainland ?
best end to a youtube vid! Looking forward to your baseboard tutorial
i would like to see in your video about how to cut baseboards your favorite methods for scribing to floors. i don't like using corner round to cover gap at bottom. I prefer a tight fit to uneven floors with the actual base when possible.
Great video. You totally nailed it!
Haha not in my house. 117 years ago they didnt measure 16 on center
very good and thank you !
That looks like fun. However I would break me neck and maybe my back. But it's still fun to see you do it.
Thank you for your interesting and informative videos!
Unfortunately this won't work in our old ginger bread house. Studs are every 15-18 inches (saw 20 also).
Walls aren't straight either, just the way it was built. It could use some mud framing.
A great tip as always. Thanks.
Interior walls on some older homes can be 24" on center
You should end every video with skateboarding LOL
Has a channel dedicated to it! Thats how i found this one
Now THAT's how to end a video - Nice!
I use a magnet to find the dry wall screws and small pencil mark. Find three screws that fall vertically, there’s the stud.
I like a stupid strong magnet wrapped in fresh blue tape to find the screws holding the drywall and do the 16" trick with random checks to make sure I'm hitting studs.
Generally when you find one screw or nail, search 16 inches over at about the same height.
Drywall installers tend to install screws at the same height across the wall.
Ummm....my mind is blown! Love this hack!
What if theres wooden panel? What do you do then? Maybe it's not so important when you are putting on trim, but let's say you're hanging something heavy on the wall?
I tried my younger brothers skateboard once and it was the first time I did a full circle in the air the board was gone and my ass and elbow were fu.. Ben you obviously spent a miss guided youth🤠👍😂🔨
Ty Kellerman a skateboard is how I broke my tailbone the first time 😂 2nd was roller skates, 3rd was roller blades 😂 I guess I'm one of those who was only meant to be flat footed to the ground 😂
I use a Magnet 🧲 tu find studs when ever I'm repairing cracks on sheetrock!!
A small stack of the rare earth ones work great.
Now I finally understand why you're always wearing those Vans haha awesome!
Steel toe shoes scratch brand new flooring... and 3 pounds hanging on each foot for 40 years is a total nonsense. Over the run of my career, I'd rather have 5 nails running through my sole and drop 5 sheets of drywall on my toes than having a knee or hip replaced at 50.
xavytex while I agree about no steel toe boots on flooring, i wear my ST/SP boots everywhere I go, they are comfy and the weight is nothing. Your calf and foot weighs a lot more than the boot does..
that nailer is so slick!
edit: you're a fucking beast on that skateboard!
A folding ruler or a yardstick might be a bit easier to use, you don't have to worry about it bending
Quality tip
Simply refrain from mudding bottom drywall screw to avoid needing a tape measure to do this work
”Well alright there”😂😂
Drywall challenge.... I think itd be fun to watch you tape a joint with a spatula.
How about a video on how to cut baseboard/trim for "rounded inside corners". There is not a single one on TH-cam.
Appreciate it. Does anyone know the measurements for the molding?
Can you use 18 gauge brad nailer for 1/2 inch thick baseboards or do you need a 16 gauge or 15 gauge nailer?
You could use 18-Ga Brads for ½-¾" thickness; 16-Ga Finish for ¾-1" thickness; 15-Ga Finish for 1¼-2" thickness.
16in ...pffff ya sure... :P
Seriously... very valid starting point, but too often, in older buildings, I find 12in, or misaligned 16in.
So in additioni to all the good tricks you mentionned, I don't bother measuring and I use a Franklin stud finder... for baseboards, for counter top headboard and kitchen cabinet. And of course I use 2-3 times as much nails as you do, cause I use 23ga (hehehe)
- ahhh... and you got the Cadex 21ga, looks pretty new, not cheap but they work so well. I got the 23ga... actually I got it from a store in Coquitlam that you probably know, Woodworker Specialties, great service from Bob.
Tease question... do you need to fill the 21ga nail's holes?
Nice skateboarding... you're almost as good with it as you are with your trowel ***LOL*** :D
cheers.
Claude WS my house is a converted cottage, every wall inside and exterior is framed on 24” Centers
@@Beandiptheredneck Yep, 24in also exist. I have not see that often. So your walls must be 6in thick, and the drywall thicker (5/8in), yes?
Claude WS 2x4, no headers above windows and the whole house originally had 3/8 panelling in it but it’s now 1/2 drywall. Been remodelled a few times
@@Beandiptheredneck 2x4 @24in on exterior wall... hummmm... I've never seen that. I imagine there is no 2nd floor?
@@claudews529 this could be a noob question but does paint alone have the filling power to get rid of 23ga nail holes? Can you just skip spackling? If not, what's the point to using 23 over 18?
Hey what type of wood did you use thanks
Amazing!
Good job skater dude.
Great advice. I like reading the comments and I'm surprised you didn't delete the sexist comment by Travis K. Women do watch your videos you know ....
My ex girlfriend was a stud finder. Dudes were always driving nails in to her.
She is fun to nail....
You are disgusting sexist. That's probably why she's your ex. Surely this is not a space for such a comment.
@@wandakowalski7063 surely this is exactly the right place for this comment.
Lol, good one
@@JorgeLopez-ub8dz - Great response.
re the 16" rule. Do builders adjust that to more evenly fit in wall width? As a DIY I would measure width & divide to find the closest measurement to 16" that works. e.g. it might be 14" spaces that work evenly. The pros do this or do they stick to 16" with a narrower final spacing?
All building materials are designed for 16" centers
shegocrazy I’ve never done that. Always go with 16”. Like Ben said all building material, plywood, drywall, insulation, is set for 16 or 24” Centers
Check out "Tony Caulk" at the end there!
Would the 16in rule still apply to older houses? My mother's home is about a hundred years old and we're doing some renovations, presently we're dealing with some Cabinetry, if we get to the molding and baseboards and such is there anything else we need to keep in mind?
My hundred year old house has 16 spacing. If anything. it is better for finding studs, because they cut 2x4s almost to real measurement, not the 1.5 by 3.5 of modern studs.
An older home like that may have plaster and lath on the walls. It can be very difficult to find the studs through all that material. Lath is not strong enough to hold kitchen cabinets and you need to find the studs. You can remove a little bit of material by the bottom of the wall to find the studs. One house I worked in the studs had petrified and I had to use a hammer drill to screw into them. Good luck!
@@martylts That is so true... I had forgotten about lath... my stud finder would be so useless :(
- "removing a bit of material at the bottom"... good idea... (thinking...)... at the bottom, use a drill with a small bit, find a first stud, then test 16in (and 12in if no 16in). Cheers
Sometimes the small drill bit would hit lath and feel like I hit a stud. You are right about the stud finder. I had a real fancy one at the time and it might as well have Shrugged its shoulders and looked at me funny every time I set it against the wall :-)
@@martylts "Sometimes the small drill bit would hit lath and feel like I hit a stud." :) very true :)
That's why, and I should have mentionned it, I would drill deeper than an inch... ... Drilling is my less destructive approach in last ressource.
Cheers.
Thank you, you are great
how do you attach the baseboard to the walls in an apartment with steel studs?
keep shreddddding ddddude
House built in 1896 with balloon framing. No bottom plate, studs on whatever they felt like center. 😞
Is that a pinner or a brad nailer?
You using 16g or 18g?
DUDE who taped that wall?
Sitting on waxed curb...check
Vans... check
Kickflip... win
What size brad nails are you using?
So the red Mark's are 16 inches then what's the diamond? 19 two
I've heard you aren't supposed to cut long and "snap in" when you're up against a door casing because the base will eventually push the door casing over. Is that all BS?
Not that long just a little long
bs, your base board will push out of the wall before the door frame moves .
@@jasonpressler7111 well it just depends which one's nailed on better doesn't it?
What nail and size to use though ?
the nail gun is typically about 15" just use that as a guide for 16 "
wow, you use a framing nailer for your baseboards?!?! My nailer is about 8-9in long.
@@claudews529 size doesn't matter stick it in the other hole... I mean just use 2 lenghts of your nailer. you should mark 8 inches exactly on your gun.
@@MichaelMantion Got it :) Thx.
Unless you are doing a restoration and nailing an old house with lath and plaster....
Why do you need to find studs! ? The wall should be flat enough to fix the board with grab abhesive, and if to fix into the base plate
Cool vid. Check out some KneePro 3 kneepads! They will change your life and save your knees! Thank you for all your vids.
You don't miter your inside corners?
Gangsta style😂
U call it two members in s door . It's Jack an king stud
Miter the inside corners!.....AHAHAAAAAaaa...NOT! When I walk into a project all I have to do is look at the inside Corners to find out if it's a finish Carpenter or a bad Carpenter. Inside miters tell me BAD Carpenter! As far as 16in on Center, I had to tear open a wall in a basement that was framed and drywalled about a year ago and they're not even close to 16 inches on Center. A lot of them are between 1 and 2 in off or right on the mark just to be totally inconsistent. Otherwise, your Technique is pretty good for finding studs for baseboard s
You don't say! You had to tear down the wall to find the studs!?!?!?!? LOL
- "1-2in off".... same here.... and twisted walls because they did not put any horizontal midway cross between studs... bah... some useless craftmen.
cheers.
@@claudews529 sorry for some confusion. I removed drywall to change the plumbing location. Instead of the left and the right stud being 8 feet apart they are 94 in so I have to cut a couple inches, luckily, off of a full sheet of drywall that measures 8 feet
@@martylts ahahahaha.... no confusion... I was simply kidding.... my attempt for humour :D
- as for the 94in .... this year, in all the apts I renovated, I had the same issue..
Cheers
Why is it wrong to do an inside miter? Aren't most baseboards done like that?
@@davidpalmer8419 professional finish carpenters use a cope cut for inside corners. This can be done with a coping hand saw, a jigsaw with a coping foot, or a grinder with a sanding wheel on MDF trim. There are two advantages of using this technique. I can measure an entire house and do all my cuts and then install them. I could not do that if I used miter cuts. some would be too long and some would be too short. The other advantage is miter cuts tend to open up and coping cut to do not. I'm working in a basement that was partially finished by the contractor who built the house a little over a year ago. All the inside corners have gaps that need to be filled with caulk.
You should do a video on staying fit and healthy, you keep your weight down
Skaters tend to be thin, not always, but its a good rule of thumb. Grab a deck and grind!
I wish I had a funny pun for finding studs.
There will be more than enough of them.
Puns are truly the way to my heart 😂 maybe we'll have a room full of people who need my love 😂
😐... Good work.. Aye? 🤔
😎🚬
My problem is, I don't have a nail gun ..... And get one to replace couple of baseboards is a waste
Tony Hawk eat your heart out.
Their is studs next to windows as well been
I just bought a stud finder.
i f*cking love Canadians
Why would you need to find studs for baseboard. Theres a bottom framing member there tge bottom 2”….
Usually 16 on center lol key word usually you know how those framers are
Whoever framed the house I live in definitely didn’t use a tape measure.
@@MoneyManHolmes You and I both brother
Just hit the wall......find the non hollow spot.....done
Using a magnet is an easy way too
Easy??? If you got metal 2x4. Otherwise, a good stud finder is a lot quicker.
Claude WS when someone told me that I said the same thing but no you can find the screw in the stud really fast. It’s a ball Neodymium magnet Wrapped in silicone or some type of strong robber with a finger hole and you slide it around the wall till you hit a screw and it grabs it really good then you just go straight down like you were saying when you eye it up from a nail pop
If you get one I’m telling you you’ll wonder how you ever lived without one lol j/k but it’s awesome cause it’s very light lighter than any studfinder and you can just put in ur pocket
@@frankturner9791 Rest assured, I know it works. but I never seen that specific tool in my part of the woods. Thx