Fanatec Shifter Mis-Shifting Fix!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 มิ.ย. 2021
- How I fixed my mis-shifting Fanatec ClubCport SQ 1.5 shifter!
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I got the same issue and I resolved this way:
1) start calibration
2) place in neutral and move the level left and right then OK
3) place in reverse and the OK
4) place in neutral and then left and right the press OK
5) place in first gear then OK
6) you got the point. Once in neutral i move the shifter left and right before click OK.
Tried several time and only with this procedure I have no error and no wrong shift
This is the one that fixed mine, thanks for your post! None of this sticking tape on or giving it a brush mumbo jumbo. Just a wiggle between setting the cog! Awesome.
Just orderd the shifter but will try this the first timee! Thank you sir!
I tried this a few weeks ago and it worked. Came back to say thank you. This saved me and finally allowed me to race manual cars again.
I think im doing it wrong…
Since when I do this it works for a few minutes and then it stops working again.
What I am doing is that I’m moving the lever left and right several times before engaging the gear and pressing OK.
But if I’m understanding you right you want me to press OK in neutral then OK in 1st gear. It doesn’t really make sense.
When I did according to your solution it left me with a bunch of 5th gears.
Any help would be sooo appreciated because I feel physically ill because of this :(
Thanks!
The real and easy fix ! I could not believe that such a simple clean would fix this problem, but it's really true and tested. 3 months and still OK. Thank you :)
Mine is still going strong too! :)
Thanks Carl, cheers from close to the VIR circuit, USA. My almost three years old shifter was misregistering inputs. Followed your tips, it is now working as new! 🍻
If your a goof ball like me and don't want to risk breaking it. Alternatively you can take a can of compressed air and blow the inside/top part as Karl showed. Shifter was broken for 2 months and was finally going to scrub it down but it works now. Thank you for the insight Karl!
So many thanks for this fix. I had a wonky magnet when I got my shifter and fixed that myself rather than return the unit as it was pretty straightforward. The shifter was nearly fixed after that but it would still hit reverse once every thirty laps or so, really irritating and usually race ending. I wiped my circuit boards front and back with isopropyl infused glasses cleaning cloths and no more mis-shifts. It did look I removed some traces of grease during the cleaning process and I think I may have got the grease on there during the magnet fix.
i cleaned my with household alcohol with a small brush to, and put it back together. Working fine again for first time finally..... Thanks for the help, much apreciated....
Perfect timing, my shifter has been getting gradually worse since the last time I took it apart a year ago. The magnet was still in the correct position since I applied loctite to it last time.
Dipped a toothbrush in isopropyl alcohol and scrubbed both PCBs as you suggested - problem solved, thank you!
After the problem would come and go over several months, the "tape fix" 100% worked for me. I added three layers of electrical tape to the back of the Hall sensor PCB.
I did the same and the problem came back after 6 months
Great video mate! As always
Thank you for the video.
Have (had?) the same issue here. Opened a RMA and got it back after about three weeks (I'm sitting here in Germany!). There was no comment etc. on what they have done. Just an addition cable to connect the shifter to the wheel base (DD1) was included. It worked for about two weeks. Then it starts again telling the wrong gear. Tried to calibrate but still after a few hours it starts again. I opened now the shifter to clean the PCBs as shown in your video. What I saw is, that they added some electrical tape to the bigger of the two PCBs (the PCB that is connected to the external connector). I cleaned now the PCBs with IPA and I also added some plastic shims two the downside of the PCB (not to the upper side because the screws seems to ground the PCB). I did this just to keep a small distance. Let's see how it goes...
@Karl: It's now a long time since you made the "fix". Have you had any problems since then?
Yes I have! See my video from a week or two ago mate.
For such an expansive product, this has got me second guessing getting a fanatec shifter.
Going to try this in a day or two when I can get the time to take my shifter apart, gear 2 has been shifting to 4 for ages now 😂, tried the tape fixed it for a week or two and now ive just been dealing with it for months, I’ll edit with my results, i really appreciate these helpful tips, thank you
Got to be worth a try!
@@KarlGosling yeah i actually just did it yesterday, worked perfect, not an issue at all, i really appreciate the video, ive been looking for a fix for months then i stumbled onto your fix and it worked! Couldnt have been better timing!
thanks! just cleaned mine with alcohol and fixed my mis-shiting problem.
Excellent!
Enjoyed the video Carl hope your well also I used your GT omega discount code earlier to get the prime rig
Nice! :)
Thank you for this, really easy to do. Seems dust can just get in there through the sides when shifting around. I put a shift boot on the shaft hopefully that will keep it cleaner for longer. So happy I can use h pattern again I was stuck using sequential. I like seq but depends on the car and what im trying to do.
Many thanks, your tip worked well for my shifter
I disconnected as you mentioned, then I used Air blower on the pcbs. Working like a charm... Atm..
This is actually work! Thanks!
worked for me also. However you don't have to remove the RJ12 plug. Just shift the gear and you can get to the screws on that board.
Just cleaned the PCBs with 91% ISP. recalibrated and works like a charm. I was going to go the electrical tape route prior, but after you said the issue still occurred, i gave this route a try and it worked fine. I'll see how long it lasts and report if anything changes. Thanks!
Yeah I still don't know why it works but mines still been fine.
i will try that tomorrow.... Crosses my fingers also and hope my Bl...y Fanatec shifter will start to work as it is surpose to.... thanks for sharing....
Same issue here! Started yesterday, the shifter worked perfectly for couple months, then suddenly 50% of shifts went completely nuts! No clear pattern for mis-shifts, even 4th gear got registered as a reverse, so for me its not always the "gear next to it". I still have warranty but seeing your video and many comments backing your theory, I think I try this out, I'll let you and others know how it worked out:)
Hi, how are the results if i may ask?
@@yrtracingteam106 Okay so I let my gaming rig rest for 3 weeks, and after your comment I tested it again, I drove 2 dirt rally stages without any problem but then it started again, so I removed the shifter and the lid and all I did was I unplugged all 3 pins and put them back in, didnt clean anything, then recalibrated the shifter with the fanatec PC program. Im currently driving like 5th stage on dirt rally 2.0 in a tricky track so I really have to wank the shifter like crazy, and so far not a single mis-shift occured. So far so good! It seems to be working!
@@edwin6233 stil working fine? :)
I've done this and it fixed the issue for a couple of weeks and then the shifter was back to it's old tricks. I've also accomplished every other recommendation on TH-cam with no long-term success. The shifter is now headed for the garbage can. No more Fanatec products for me!
Thank You Karl!!!
I don't know why it works or how long it will fix it, but it has worked flawless for me as well when I did the same thing a couple of weeks ago. It's got to be building some positive friction when being in the metal enclosure after a certain amount of time has passed and maybe the electronics needs to be re-grounded by opening the enclosure and cleaning PCB boards with some alcohol? Not sure, but none the less, appreciate the video, it has worked for me as well!
Yeah I don't think we'll ever know but if it helps people then all good! :)
Sprayed mine wd40 from the top without opening it up and it works. I dare say I need to open it up eventually but it’s doing it fine for now.
Like you said...not sure WHY this works, but it works. I pulled mine apart to look at the small magnet from a few comments below, but my shifter is a different design and that board could not be removed. So, I just cleaned it with alcohol and bob's your uncle.
Yeah aside from possibly static discharge I still have no idea?! lol
Thanks for the update! Maybe I can still get the Fanatec DD then :). It's either save those USB ports or build a whole new PC. Don't trust USB hubs for expensive equipment.
So far so good, been fine since! :D
i have hundreds of comments on the "tape fix" that I posted and it does work for many people...it has been working for me since I posted the video 3 years ago...pretty misleading to say that it does not work.
No need to be bitter mate! It's not misleading at all is it didn't work, if there's clearance for you to fit tape then there's far too much clearance for any sort of short/contact, just think about it for a second.
You, I and many others are probably all just discharging static build up as suggested in the comments here :)
there is a difference between being bitter, and calling out someone for making a misleading video.
@@KarlGosling TH-cam Celebrity Death Match!!! Battle Of The Fanatec Fixers! Who will triumph??? Captain Tape OR The Isopropyl Warrior!! In the immortal words of Harry Hill, there’s only one way to find out….. FIGHT!! 😂😂
Got mine 3 weeks ago and it started to act up today, incredible how Fanatec messed up an expensive piece of equipment that should be so simple
This method did not work by the way, it won't get into 3rd, 4th, or 5th at all in the calibration menu. Sequential mode works just fine though.
If you got it new then send it back mate, three weeks is nothing!
Thank you so much! Ive been having so many problems with my fanatec setup after about 1 year of not having time to sim race. plugged everything in and the wheel rim shattered where it connects to the hub, bent all the pins in the wheel. Tons of issues after i bought my replacement wheel, and then my shifter starts acting up going from 1st to reverse constantly, and ruining races. Contacted fanatec about this problem they said they cannot help me in short! Cannot believe i spend around 2k on my setup and I get zero help from fanatec! This actually fixed my issues!!!! im so grateful, these videos of abnormal issues almost never work and yet simply rubbing the pcbs with alcohol fixed my shifter. I thank you so much and recommend everyone try this if your having similar issues!!!!!! 12/10
And just an fyi, i did not need to remove any pins, just removed the alan bolts held it about 2 inches above the case and scrubbed it, and it works fine. didnt remove the glue from the connector he talked about in the video!
Maybe clean/remove the whole grease and replace it with non conductive one (silicone). Clean the PCB, aligned the magnets and secure them in place. I assume that vapors create a thin conductive layer over time that causes the mis shift. Also maybe pcb coating with spray could help after cleaning.
u are on to something, dielectric grease might be the way to go. ill come back to you on that since the ipa isnt a permanent fix and is bound to come back within weeks
The tape fix worked for me, from the first time i received the shifter it never worked correctly, always missing shifts causing me to spin. Fanatec customer service was a joke, not a funny one either, did the tape fix and mine has never missed a shift since, so the tape fix does work.
For me everything is in just the right place, but that's just luck as we're all different size and shapes! lol
Thanks.
My guess is that issues are/were more likely in the RJ12 connectors. DeoxIT G-Series works well on plated contacts, as does F-Series on potentiometers.
It's quite possible mate.
Yeah, for me a bit of rumbling those connectors solved it temporarily for a long time.
But I have to say, I cleaned the boards (and the connectors ;) ) solved it totally.
I did recalibrated it afterwards.
First, I really enjoy your videos! I watch them whenever you post them. My question is this.
Yor video about the Fanatec shifter and brushing it down with Alcohol...How has that worked out? Any update since your video a year ago or so on this? I thought I had mine figured out by the space tape mod and it worked for several months but it is going back to the misshifts. How is yours holding up? Might be another good follow up video on how it has done and if you have had to repeat the maintenance periodically on it. Thank you for your input.
Best regards,
clickersnapper01
Thank you
You're welcome
sup buddy, ever tried dielectric grease on the board ? i think its cause by static since hall sensor's are sensitive to it
The tape solved the issue on mine. I've had mine for about 3 years now, worked for quite a while just fine, then started having that miss shift issue. taping the back of the PCB's with electrical tape immediately fixed my issues for about a year till it started happening again. I added a 2nd piece on top of the other one because there isn't a clearance issue and again it fixed my problem, and been fine ever since. The first time it happened I was using CSL Elite V1.1, the second time was with a DD2 so I don't think it has anything to do with how its connected, really just seems like internal interference problems with the boards being next to magnets.
I got exaclty the same issue. The "tape" fix helped for a while. But now, I need to take my shifter appart and clean it maybe every 3-6 months to eliminate the issue.
I really don't know what cause this. Maybe the grease inside is conductive and make some weird contact.
It feel like even just open it can resolve the issue.
Yep, they use conductive grease.
@CounterfeitVidz That wasn't the issue for me, I always check that when I open it but mine is always at the right place.
Although I've seen that has resolved the issue for some people.
Yeah this wasn't my issue either time, I'm thinking either static build up.
Hi I was wondering what cockpit i should get for dirt rally I've decide on the Logitech g920 wheel and Logitech G Driving Force Shifter also a hand brake. Should I go with something different for rally sim also what would be a good budget cockpit for this setup?
I went with the GT OMEGA ART Simulator Cockpit. $250 USD without a seat, or you can get the seat with it for $450. Best bang for your buck in terms of stability.
Hi Karl, As it’s been a couple of months since you done this video on the mid shifting I wondered if your shifter has been ok since or have you had to clean it again as I have cleaned mine but within a couple of weeks it seems to need attention again. Very frustrating. Like you I play a lot of Dirt rally which of course involves a lot of shifting and I wondered if this makes it more if a problem? Anymore ideas out there on what we can do to stop this problem for the long term or are we all still clutching at straws? Thanks for all your videos by the way, very informative 👍
Mines still good so far mate.
It really is a pain though as a lot of us seem to suffer with it!
@@KarlGosling that was 7 months ago now, still working mate? I just got one used from a pal who was having this issue. I got the GT CSL DD but with WRC wheel for Xbox. My pal just bought a PS5. So we are swapping the shifter for the GT wheel. I plan to try this iso fix as soon as I get it this week by mail. Cheers
@@ptgfern4588 How did it work out for you man? I just got mine from a guy too and it seems to happen sometimes. If I put it in first gear, it will throw it into reverse or third. Wonder if this worked for you?
@@balkanvenom3586 I have performed the isopropyl clean up and have not had any issue, but since getting mine I have been using it mostly as sequential because i don't have a clutch pedal yet lol. I promise to report back once I do have a third pedal and am using it H pattern
@@ptgfern4588 I really appreciate your reply! I’ll have to give this a try one of these days. Thanks again!
I’d also recommend replacing the Fanatec RJ12 to RJ12 cable. I messed about with the tape mod and everything for ages . Turns out it was just a dodgy lead the whole time.
Only yourself and one other person has suggested the RJ12 cable which makes alot of sense and the easiest to try. I have read quite a few comments about swapping to the USB adapter which would suggest the same.
In my experience RJ12 connectors are sensitive to corrosion depending on quality.
Well worth a try as they are cheap!
@@KarlGosling You know it's not going to play up ever again. Mystery of the shifter will never be revealed. 🤣🤣🤣😎
@@KarlGosling yes, I should have clarified you don’t need to get one from Fanatec.
Any 6 pin RJ 12 male to male. I got this one £6.99…
RJ12 to RJ12 Cable 2m 6P6C Flat Extension Lead Phone Cord Telephone Plug Connector Male to Male Router/Modem to Phone Landline Socket Switchboard Lead Data Plug Wire RJ-12 to RJ-12 (White) www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07YC7DWN5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_G7WVTMAYQAH0J9MGKD4Z?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I started having issues with mis-shifts since about a week ago (it was working perfectly fine before then) and I was pulling my hair. The mis-shifts were so bad that I couldn't finish a single round of dirt rally. After I watched this video I was about to order myself a brush and alcohol but then I stumble upon your comment.
I was thinking to myself "no fucking way right?", then I proceeded to unplug the shifter's RJ12 cable from both ends and gave them the "Nintendo Blow", then plugged them back in. Fucking fixed it mate! Wtf?! I then proceed to do 2 hours straight of Dirt Rally and the shifter worked BEAUTIFULLY.
Who would've thought after almost 30 years, the "Nintendo Blow" is still fixing things lmfao.
Karl did you still had troubles?
Thanks for the video just amazing
I have an updated video on my channel mate.
THANKS MATE IT WORK: I think it coming from the PCB right behind the RJ12 and it was a bit cover from some kind of dust on the plate that I think it coming from the grease or metal in the mechanism friction next to RJ12.... maybe, any way thanks
Glad it helped
Hi Karl, I was just wondering as it’s been a year now since you made this video wether it’s still working ok as I still have mis shifting issues from time to time. Cheers bud 👍
I've recently done an update video mate, check it out.
Hi, thanks for the info. I’m curious since its already two months ago if it still works properly? Thanks in advance
Yes it is, so far so good! :)
@@KarlGosling oké thanks! 👍🏼 the last two hours i’ve been racing with ‘that shifter in AC and AMS2. Worked fine. But also here it misshifts once in a while. And once is always 1 time to many as you know. But in AC i’ve noticed that you have to use the clutch pedal in the right way and the clutch travel has to be spot on (with your foot movement) press it less and misshifting occurs. I had great races just now sow I won’t open it up just yet but i’ll know what to do when it fails on me. Cheers
I am there with you. Have had this problem for two years (even tried grounding rig). For me the "tape" fix always solves the problem for 3-4 months and then it's back. Also bought the USB adapter and it's working but I also did tape (both boards). I love H-Pattern also and now I just view it as maintenance (clean, tape, grease, etc.) every 3 months. No idea why any of this works!
It's because the grease they use is conductive.
@CounterfeitVidz Thanks! Yeah I always check magnet and it’s always centered.
@CounterfeitVidz Ohh yeah I forgot about those stupid bloody magnets!
@@KevinDeM10 I would personally put an oversized piece of electrical tape on the back and use the edges of that tape to stick a piece of cling film around the front of the board to stop any grease getting in
Hey dude, apologies in advance for the long question but struggling to find a resolution anywhere. So i had a pc set up with my Logitech G293 wheel, pedals and shifter, worked fine on the 3 games i used being ETS2, Dirt 2 and Project Cars 2, upgraded to a new better pc, reinstalled everything (GHub etc) tried ETS2, worked perfect BUT as soon as i launch into Dirt or Project Cars the wheel instantly goes SUPER stiff, barely impossible to turn, then if i launch into a race nothing works, wheel or pedals. I have no idea why its doing it and why on 2 of the 3 games, if i try and re calibrate in game it stays stiff where i dont want to force the wheel round as just doesnt feel right. Would SUPER appreciate if you have any ideas as to how to sort it. Thanks in advance!!!
I'd love to help mate but I have no idea really, I've not experienced this! :(
Maybe try different USB ports (if you haven't already), reinstall the drivers and games but other than that I don't know what to suggest sorry!
@@KarlGosling no worries dude, yea baffling me, tried different ports, uninstalled the ghub and reinstalled it, last thing im trying is to remove dirt and all save files so it completely starts fresh and set it up like its the first time, if that doesnt work then it will go out the window lol
Isopropyl alcohol, any tech persons favourite fluid 😂. I clean my mice and keyboards with it every week and it's saved 4 smartphones that have dropped in water. Always keep a litre in the house.
I think what is happening is that tiny specs of metal are causing partial shorts on the circuit board which are causing intermittent voltage fluctuations causing the wrong gear to be indicated. If you look at the central aluminium casting you will see it is poorly finished with loose slivers of aluminium along the edges where the shaft passes through - these will get dislodged during shifting. Like you say - the tape method seems to work because when you remove the board you will dislodge the specs. Cleaning will work but may need done regularly as the problem could reappear. The next time I have to open mine I think I'll clean and either coat the boards with conformal coating (as they should be from the factory) or cover them with kapton tape.
I have had issues getting it calibrated because it wasn't giving me any time to change gears to calibrate it, but after countless attempts i managed to get it calibrated but after i done that then it started to go into neutral instead of going into whatever gear i tried to put it into, it went into gear and then started jumping into neutral and back into the gear that i originally put it in. If someone has had the same issues and knows how to fix it or has any suggestions please share them with me. Thanks
Will give this a try! What is Fanatec's comment on this. Seems like an extremely common failure, dare I say design flaw on a rather expensive item.
I had the v1, sent it back 3 times for this issue without them fixed it, and the 4th time they replaced it with a v1.5, which developed the same issue, by far the worst fanatec product i ever came across. will try this fix, see if it works, thanks. Btw i also think the issue is the rj12 cable is not suitable for this application. Also the magnet under one of the pcb-s collecting metal filings, what can cause issues on it's own
I have also replaced the lead between the wheel base and the shifter with a better quality lead
Hi Karl, I was just wondering if your Fanatec shifter is still working fine as it’s now a year later? I have been still been having trouble with mine miss shifting from time but have to admit I haven’t tried this clean that you advise. Just wondering if it really works long term? Thanks bud.
I've recently done an update video mate, check it out
Yes I have noticed that since. Thanks Karl 👍
Brak clean plus molybdenum grease is the key
My sequential is working fine but h pattern not registering on any games. Calbration is fine on fanatec software, it registers all gears and no misshifts, just no h pattern in any racing games. Please help!!!
I was going to buy this shifter. Should I hold off ? Have these issues been fixed yet from the factory ? What should I do. This shifter looks really good but is marked by some very odd faults.
This fault will never be fixed, it's years old.
@@KarlGosling that's unfortunate. Ill hold off from buying it
Thx
Your just cleaning the top of the PCB ( won't do a thing) As someoen else mentioned I would aslo guess that the disassembly and reassembly reseated the connections making the improved performance vs anything the alcohol did.
There's exposed contacts/legs on the top so if there was anything on there it would clean it off... but it looked pristine so I don't think it was that.
Also I mentioned I didn't unplug or reseat anything except the H pattern/sequential switch, this doesn't effect the hall sensors... But I am thinking static discharge as someone else has mentioned perhaps?!
So frustrated. My shifter isn't even 2 months old and it's miss shifting. It's gradually getting worse
I tryed this and my gears still don’t work right the sequential works, but my H pattern does not
Is the shifter still working for you? The mis shifting problem is the only thing putting me off from buying this shifter, but if it can be properly fixed this way I'd feel much more comfortable buying one
Yeah all good so far mate! :)
@@KarlGosling Great to hear, thanks!
I have this problem. It becomes worse when i switch form sequential back to H pattern.
@CounterfeitVidz you wanna ruin my Saturday huh? 😆. Thank you, I will give it a go
@CounterfeitVidz That is could be one of the problems, not the only problem. My magnet is fine and it started mis shifting twice. First time, applied the tape fix, solved. Second time, after half a year or so, same problem. Disassembled, checked tape and magnet, everything ok, changed nothing, re assembled. And it shifts fine again. There's something else going on, that static buildup theory possibly makes sense, too.
I think the corrosion is not on the board its on the plug pins.
we get this happen a lot in our drone stuff. The pins should be solid rods, some have folded plates for pins. These sometimes bend flat and cause resistance dropping the voltage on the leads, if your already using a super long lead you maybe getting brownouts on your pcb. They also get oxidized fast and being pins in a folded plate socket they will not be touching all the way around and any corrosion will affect it fast.
you saying it fixed itself just cos you took it apart last time kinda leads me further down the pins theory ;p
I only unplugged the two pin plug for the micro switch at the base of the unit to switch between H pattern and sequential mate... I'm thinking more along the lines of static discharge maybe?!
although i can confirm that ipa does fix the issue, it is not a permanent fix. ive been doing it for 2 years now, works well for the first week but as soon as you stop playing on a daily basis and come back, the issue is there again. seems to be no actual permanent fix for this even tho Fanatec is aware their product is defective from the start
You might have fixed it by ground/discharge it since it works with hall-sensors and the miss-shifts might happen due to electrically charged parts inside the shifter.
I replaced the CSS against a Frex H-shifter I've ordered in Japan last year (about 530 Euro incl. import taxes). A purchase I haven't regret yet because the gates have more distance and it feels more real. I had CSS problems with miss-shifts as well, but as I remember more because of shifting into the wrong gears due to the dense gates and lesser resistance due to worn out parts after 5 years of usage.
Could well have been mate yes.
expend on this please
i got my shfter today and outa the box it was covered in oil which i dont think it should be. But reading all these issues im not very impressed with how this product is recived and probs will send it back and stick with the T8 from TM. All i think is typical company not caring for quality and more for quantity and making broken products
Literally just got my shifter yesterday brand new from fanatec and it won’t shift into 6th 7th or reverse
Useless!
Thanks for your efforts mate. Nevertheless, I'll be staying away from the shifter. For me it's pointless to spend 259 euros for something I'll potentially have to 'fix' myself. For that amount of money, the product needs to be electronically flawless. I'm completely blown away that this shifter has been on the market for many years while the apparent structural problem (many others have reported it) has still not been resolved by Fanatec!!! It looks like a beautiful piece of hardware, but it has to be solid out of the box in every aspect.
Agreed mate, just to say though mine is still working perfectly now so been good for a while, but you are of course 100% correct, it should work anyway! lol :)
My friend and I were discussing how cryptocurrency miners were sucking up all the global GPU supplies to generate random numbers. "Why don't they just use Fanatec SQ1.5 shifters?", he asked. Bloody hilarious imho.
lol What a great solution!!
Ive found a disassembly and reassembly tends to "reset" it myself. No idea why. You're not the first person with that experience either. I think that leads to a lot of odd conclusions about what it is that fixes it. But me and a friend have just decided to disassemble and reassemble each time it gets crazy. Im not convinced that cleaning it makes a difference... because it seems to fix itself even when you do nothing to it.
I've heard some people speculate about static buildup???
It's' a shame since this is such a great shifter otherwise. Its so much fun. There's not really a viable alternative out there anywhere close to the feel and cost.
I'm also leaning towards static build up and then discharge too.
honest to god, it seems to be static. literally missed shift for a hour yesterday, i blew air inside the shifter and worked fine after lmfao might try dielectric grease to cover the pcb in combination with grounding the shifter and also 3d printing a cover to protect it from dust when not using it
I had the same experience recently. The first time it started to misshift, I applied the tape solve method. No more problems for a long time. Last week, it started misshifting again very frequently. Opened it up, checked to see if the tape was still ok, it was, magnet aligned too, so I reassembled the shifter without doing anything. Et voila! No more misshifts. So this static theory starts to make sense to me too..
Please see my comment up top, your post made me think of a similar situation i had and may lead to a fix for this.
Still fixed Karl?
Yes and no! lol Started mis-shifting again last week, this time I just took it apart and then reassembled (testing the static build up theory) and instantly it's working perfectly again, give it a try mate.
@@KarlGosling Thanks for letting me know champ. On the purchase list along with their handbrake. DD CSL arrived on Monday, I’m in Dirt Rally heaven! Even dusted off the old DR 1 Peaks Pike Hillclimb stage as well, mad fun. Need a handbrake…..
I cannot believe this product is 250$ and you're expected to fix it right out of the box. I will never in my life buy from Fanatec. My Logitech G27 doesn't have QC problems like this.
I'm pretty certain it wouldn't be like this from new, you'd just return it! lol
@@KarlGosling I don't know man. I'm spoiled by Virpil. Their products are absolutely ridiculously high quality, and they aren't anywhere near overpriced like Fanatec. I'll just hope they start making racing peripherals before I risk that kind of money being tied up in RMAs and and customer service emails. I don't have enough free time wait weeks to actually play my games.
@@KarlGosling I guess what I'm saying is, you made a video about a well known QA issue seven months ago, and they're still selling that same product without addressing it themselves. To me that's basically saying, "Who cares about our customers? They're still gonna buy from us." And that's super disrespectful to our time, which is way worse than just being overpriced.