Topping up the rear differential with 80W90 gear oil on a 2009 Land Rover Freelander 2 XS Note, this is the differential, not the haldex (which I hope to show in a later video)
I like the way you describe things in your video, just bought a 2010 XS myself so i will certainly be watching your videos as i do tackle things myself if i can. Thanks
Thanks for the video. To make sure oil levels like this diff's., are correct you need to get the front of the car up just as high as the rear if you can. I park on any sloping ground I can find and then reverse back up the ramps (if soft ground, use small planks under ramp legs). Also you can use the kerb in a quiet cul-de-sac, lines of concrete blocks, sloping driveway, or even a slope in a multi-storey car park at night when it's just about empty (as I have often done and using the car park lighting, -until you get chased out by the attendant)
Fantastic videos.. looking forward to the Haldex service when you get round to it.. do you have a part number for the copper washer on the rear diff or a link for it please.. thanks
Part no. LR001949, which is the same as used for the front power transfer case (ptu). Should not just top up the oil, but change it, really. Unless you've just changed it, in which case it would probably leak, if it was in need of more oil. If you want to reuse the copper washer, take it off, lay it flat on a electric cooker, and heat it up properly, then use a pair of pliers to submerge it quickly into a cup of cold water. Ready for use again. Kind regards
It is a small magnetic LED inspection lamp. I have since upgraded this bigger one… www.screwfix.com/p/luceco-rechargeable-led-magnetic-work-light-750lm/970jk
I have just bought a Freelander 2, I know the Land Rover lads are a good bunch of people so I was wondering what are common issues and things I should take extra care to keep an eye on? I had the joy of removing the oil filter when I serviced it and what a stupid location it was 😂, would of been easier if I had a 27mm flex head spanner/wrench.
Hey Beavis - love your videos - I subscribed a long time ago. The vids have helped me a good few times. Got a noisy rear diff, So I am going to drain the oil and put new stuff in plus upgrade to a magnetic plug. Looked everywhere, to no avail - any idea about the bolt size and length?
@@BeavisPits I'll try inserting the 'suck side' tubing on one of Lidl small electric pumps to extract what fluid I easily can. Measure that, then refill with at least that amount of new fluid and top up from there. Many thanks. Haldex next.
Hi there really useful video, i just did my 2010 lr2 rear diff top app, took 250ml!! do you know how to do front? can't see where to add... Is noisy when driving so could be bearings. Thanks again Matt
I bought some transfer case (front diff) oil today and hope to do a video of that top-up next weekend. Also check out my gearbox oil change video. Really quietened my gearbox and made gear changes much smoother.
@@BeavisPits ok great I'm looking to do all my fluids. The drive noise has gotten louder over the past few months so want to do all fluids before i look at getting the bearings changed. its done 130k so do you think they may have gone?
Possibly. I have heard of the diff bearings failing as early as 50k miles. Mine is on 145k and is getting a little whiney but not excessive. I just turn the radio up!
Just bought an fl2 and want to change these fluids for peace of mind. Do you think using a Pela pump to drain out the diff and completely fill with new oil would be a benefit?
You should have sucked the old fluid out. as much as you can. you did all that work to add a drop of fluid that it didn't need because you had the car on ramps and it was on an angle.
Yes, you are correct although the video is titled top-up. A drain plug would really help. I may try to tap a hole and fit one. The ramps will alter the level yes but not by enough to cause any issues.
Hi Robert, no not yet, but it is on my list of jobs to do. I have heard that it is fairly easy to remove the whole haldex unit and then replace the filter on the bench, easier than trying it do it on the car as it is up the top are very inaccessible. I hope to do this in a few months.
@@BeavisPits ..Thanks for that , I am about to attempt the removal/service of the haldex unit tomorrow as my 2012 LR freelander 2 is showing the dreaded "Transmission Fault Traction Reduced" message, (it pops up after about every 2-3 miles on start up.)
@@BeavisPits Checked battery all ok so took car to my friendly local independent 4x4 specialist today. He plugged it into diagnostics and it seems to be ...fault p1889-14 "oil pressure pump performance" a new one fitted with the labour comes to £566.07 as he said cleaning/service the old pump "may" fix the problem but if not you end up paying for a new pump and two lots of labour if it all has to come off again. So I am going to try to clean and service pump myself , fingers crossed.
@@boblivermore Ouch! That’s expensive. Pump pressure error is probably the filter, assuming they are talking about haldex fluid not engine oil. The filter and fluid is around 50 quid. This is what I bought... www.ebay.co.uk/itm/372854009686
And yet the Freelander 2 Maintenance check sheet has "renew rear differential oil (Every 10 years) 150k" So how to drain the oil? You don't. from the LR workshop manual. WARNING: Make sure to support the vehicle with axle stands. CAUTION: Make sure the vehicle is on a flat level surface. Raise and support the vehicle. 1. No provision is made to fully drain the rear differential. During repair procedures, fluid will be lost. A container should be positioned to collect any spillage. 2. Make sure the vehicle is level. Remove the rear differential filler plug and discard the sealing washer. 3. Fill the rear differential, until a thin thread of fluid runs from the filler hole. Refer to: Specifications (205-02 Rear Drive Axle/Differential, Specifications). 4. Using a new washer, install the drain plug. Torque: 35 Nm 5. 6. Lower the vehicle.
No harm in topping it up regularly, especially if the seals a weeping. There is no drain so if you want to remove the old oil then you’ll need to use a syringe and some hose. I’ve heard it is quite fiddly to get the hose down to the bottom of the casing.
Yes, you are correct, ramps will mean the diff will be slightly sloping forward and with the filler plug at the back, it will slightly overfill. This is fine though. No ill effects. The rear diff is not as sensitive to the level as the front diff or haldex. Trying to do this job with the car on the ground is tricky though and sadly not many of us home mechanics have a four post lift.
I like the way you describe things in your video, just bought a 2010 XS myself so i will certainly be watching your videos as i do tackle things myself if i can. Thanks
Thanks for the video. To make sure oil levels like this diff's., are correct you need to get the front of the car up just as high as the rear if you can. I park on any sloping ground I can find and then reverse back up the ramps (if soft ground, use small planks under ramp legs). Also you can use the kerb in a quiet cul-de-sac, lines of concrete blocks, sloping driveway, or even a slope in a multi-storey car park at night when it's just about empty (as I have often done and using the car park lighting, -until you get chased out by the attendant)
Yes, level is best, but as you say it is difficult to lift the car level on a flat driveway at home. No convenient slopes or curbs nearby.
I want to thank you too!! Me too from Italy! I love so much my Freelander 2 and your video are so usefull. Thank you, thank you.
Thank you for the positive feedback! Glad my videos are useful.
Your videos helps me alot!!! Thanks from Italy!
Thank you. Didn't know of no drain plug.
Fantastic videos.. looking forward to the Haldex service when you get round to it.. do you have a part number for the copper washer on the rear diff or a link for it please.. thanks
Part no. LR001949, which is the same as used for the front power transfer case (ptu). Should not just top up the oil, but change it, really. Unless you've just changed it, in which case it would probably leak, if it was in need of more oil.
If you want to reuse the copper washer, take it off, lay it flat on a electric cooker, and heat it up properly, then use a pair of pliers to submerge it quickly into a cup of cold water. Ready for use again.
Kind regards
Great video. Im doing mine this week. Looking forwrd to your Haldex video.
Thx dude - gr8 video - much appreciated
This video is really helpful thank you, Where can I get one of the copper washers
Halfords or ebay
WHAT IS THE LIGHT YOU HAVE UNDER THE CAR BRO, LET ME KNOW I NEED ONE!!
It is a small magnetic LED inspection lamp. I have since upgraded this bigger one…
www.screwfix.com/p/luceco-rechargeable-led-magnetic-work-light-750lm/970jk
I have just bought a Freelander 2, I know the Land Rover lads are a good bunch of people so I was wondering what are common issues and things I should take extra care to keep an eye on?
I had the joy of removing the oil filter when I serviced it and what a stupid location it was 😂, would of been easier if I had a 27mm flex head spanner/wrench.
Hey Beavis - love your videos - I subscribed a long time ago. The vids have helped me a good few times. Got a noisy rear diff, So I am going to drain the oil and put new stuff in plus upgrade to a magnetic plug. Looked everywhere, to no avail - any idea about the bolt size and length?
I don’t think there is a drain plug on the rear diff. You’d need to drill and tap a hole.
@@BeavisPits Sorry was not clear - the 13mm bolt that allows you to top up/drain the gear oil in the diff. Any idea on bolt size and length?
The fill plug thread…no sorry not sure what it is, but must be metric surely rather than BSP/NPT. Probably M12 but check it on an M12 nut to be sure.
@@BeavisPits I'll try inserting the 'suck side' tubing on one of Lidl small electric pumps to extract what fluid I easily can. Measure that, then refill with at least that amount of new fluid and top up from there. Many thanks. Haldex next.
M18 x 1,5.
Hi there really useful video, i just did my 2010 lr2 rear diff top app, took 250ml!! do you know how to do front? can't see where to add... Is noisy when driving so could be bearings. Thanks again Matt
I bought some transfer case (front diff) oil today and hope to do a video of that top-up next weekend.
Also check out my gearbox oil change video. Really quietened my gearbox and made gear changes much smoother.
@@BeavisPits Thats great ill look out for it and schedule mine in too. Thank you
@@BeavisPits ok great I'm looking to do all my fluids. The drive noise has gotten louder over the past few months so want to do all fluids before i look at getting the bearings changed. its done 130k so do you think they may have gone?
Possibly. I have heard of the diff bearings failing as early as 50k miles. Mine is on 145k and is getting a little whiney but not excessive. I just turn the radio up!
Where is the fluid going that you have to keep topping it off??
Probably leaking slowly past the driveshaft seals
Do you raise the front of the vehicle to make sure it is level?
Or is the diff so small the level doesn't make much difference?
I didn’t raise the front as it is on ramps so may not be safe to jack the front too. The slope doesn’t make much difference to the level.
Just bought an fl2 and want to change these fluids for peace of mind. Do you think using a Pela pump to drain out the diff and completely fill with new oil would be a benefit?
Yes, that would be a good idea
Beavis you never told us what oil it was ????
Rear diff is regular 80W90 gear oil. This is not haldex though, which needs special fluid.
You should have sucked the old fluid out. as much as you can. you did all that work to add a drop of fluid that it didn't need because you had the car on ramps and it was on an angle.
Yes, you are correct although the video is titled top-up. A drain plug would really help. I may try to tap a hole and fit one. The ramps will alter the level yes but not by enough to cause any issues.
Need help
I have niose on the rear differential for my Range Rover sport 2009
What I should do? Change oil for differential or change the diff?
Try oil first and see if it helps. Could just need a top up.
Sell it and buy a toyota, stupid
Hi. did you ever make the video for the haldex unit? (think mine needs service)
Hi Robert, no not yet, but it is on my list of jobs to do. I have heard that it is fairly easy to remove the whole haldex unit and then replace the filter on the bench, easier than trying it do it on the car as it is up the top are very inaccessible. I hope to do this in a few months.
@@BeavisPits ..Thanks for that , I am about to attempt the removal/service of the haldex unit tomorrow as my 2012 LR freelander 2 is showing the dreaded "Transmission Fault Traction Reduced" message, (it pops up after about every 2-3 miles on start up.)
@@boblivermore Check your battery first. Common symptom of low battery voltage.
@@BeavisPits Checked battery all ok so took car to my friendly local independent 4x4 specialist today. He plugged it into diagnostics and it seems to be ...fault p1889-14 "oil pressure pump performance" a new one fitted with the labour comes to £566.07 as he said cleaning/service the old pump "may" fix the problem but if not you end up paying for a new pump and two lots of labour if it all has to come off again. So I am going to try to clean and service pump myself , fingers crossed.
@@boblivermore Ouch! That’s expensive. Pump pressure error is probably the filter, assuming they are talking about haldex fluid not engine oil. The filter and fluid is around 50 quid. This is what I bought...
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/372854009686
And yet the Freelander 2 Maintenance check sheet has "renew rear differential oil (Every 10 years) 150k" So how to drain the oil? You don't. from the LR workshop manual.
WARNING: Make sure to support the vehicle with axle
stands.
CAUTION: Make sure the vehicle is on a flat level surface.
Raise and support the vehicle.
1.
No provision is made to fully drain the rear differential.
During repair procedures, fluid will be lost. A container
should be positioned to collect any spillage.
2.
Make sure the vehicle is level. Remove the rear differential filler plug
and discard the sealing washer.
3.
Fill the rear differential, until a thin thread of fluid runs from the
filler hole.
Refer to: Specifications (205-02 Rear Drive Axle/Differential,
Specifications).
4.
Using a new washer, install the drain plug.
Torque: 35 Nm
5.
6. Lower the vehicle.
No harm in topping it up regularly, especially if the seals a weeping. There is no drain so if you want to remove the old oil then you’ll need to use a syringe and some hose. I’ve heard it is quite fiddly to get the hose down to the bottom of the casing.
Would the diff be noisy if it was low on oil
Mine is really noisy
Probably worn diff bearings, common fault on FL2s, but try topping up the oil first.
Hi fl2 diff fill needs 2 b on level ground suspect u may have overfilled using this method.
Yes, you are correct, ramps will mean the diff will be slightly sloping forward and with the filler plug at the back, it will slightly overfill. This is fine though. No ill effects. The rear diff is not as sensitive to the level as the front diff or haldex. Trying to do this job with the car on the ground is tricky though and sadly not many of us home mechanics have a four post lift.
how do you drain that?
You will need to use a syringe and some tubing to suck out the old oil