I just picked up a 2011 Rover sport with this engine. Like the project Rover, it is very clean, but I have very little history. It was overheating and I had the cooling pipe changed which addressed that. After a short test drive, it was, missing on 3, 4, and 6, with the corresponding codes plus, a P0300. So I'm switching out the battery, changing the plugs and coils, and will see how it goes. I had a 2007 supercharged before, and have worked on that, but this 5.0 V8 is different. So this video series is a great help.
Hi Man, great work and very useful material. I am just picking up RR L322 with this engine (5.0 NA) from 2021 with 135k miles. Even I will do some basic replacements like oil or fluids, do you suggest to replace other things at beginning like timing chain and so on? anyway, if timing chain would be replaced, what manufacturer you prefer - OEM part or some other good alternative manufacturer? keep safe!
I just need to replace injectors (not head gasket) on same vehicle , and I’m trying to figure out what is the minimum I need to disassemble (I don’t think the radiator, viscous fan, and possibly the plenum and upper intake manifold need to be removed and can stay if not replacing head gaskets?). Since you video didn’t show it, if you ONLY needed to access the injectors, what do you think would be shortest/least disassembly (do the valve covers have to come off to access injectors?). Thanks for the great videos!
To Replace the injectors only you need to remove the high-pressure fuel lines, the fuel rails, the coils, the left and right plastic housings in the corners, wiring harness for coils and injectors, Fuel ventilation valve and vacuum lines. You don’t need to remove the valve covers. The injectors are sitting on top of the valve cover, that being said why do you need to replace the injectors? are they leaking? What codes do you have? How is your exhaust condition? If you decided to do this keep in mind It is recommended that you replace the high-pressure fuel pumps whenever you replace the fuel injectors And when you replace the fuel pumps you need to replace the fuel cam as well.
To Replace the injectors only you need to remove the high-pressure fuel lines, the fuel rails, the coils, the left and right plastic housings in the corners, wiring harness for coils and injectors, Fuel ventilation valve and vacuum lines. You don’t need to remove the valve covers. The injectors are sitting on top of the valve cover, that being said why do you need to replace the injectors? are they leaking? What codes do you have? How is your exhaust condition? If you decided to do this keep in mind It is recommended that you replace the high-pressure fuel pumps whenever you replace the fuel injectors And when you replace the fuel pumps you need to replace the fuel cam as well.
Thank you so much for the quick reply! There are no codes or CEL, but it appears (to me) to be an injector leakdown issue. The symptom is that if vehicle has been sitting more than 24hrs, during cold start it excessively cranks (won't start) for extended periods of time before starting, and exhaust has strong odor and some smoke during this time. One vehicle is able to start after approx. 20-30sec of multiple attempts at cranking, it runs PERFECTLY (driven extended distances), and if shut down and restarted shortly thereafter, it restarts perfectly. No performance restricted or other messages in info center. No obvious signs of exhaust issues (this vehicle had a catalytic replaced approx. 60k miles ago). Already had timing chains/tensioners replaced about the same time as the catalytic (someone originally misdiagnosed the catalytic failure as a timing chain issue and replaced the tensioners/chain because that's what usually fails). Neither high pressure or low pressure pumps have been replaced on this vehicle ever. I'm not sure why the fuel cam needs to be replaced with the pumps. It sounds like more of an opportunity to screw up the pump timing than to just leave the cam and replace the pumps. The only time I have seen something similar to this on other vehicles in the past is when injectors don't completely close when engine is shut off due to partial blockage, the high pressure sitting against valve seat in injector can leak into cylinders effectively flooding the engine. The usual test for this is to leave a pressure gauge connected after the fuel rail is pressurized and then turn key off and wait. If rail pressure drops its usually either a check valve in fuel pump or injector leaking. With the dual stage system used in the 5.0L engines, there is no direct access to put a gauge on fuel rail (I suppose I could connect IDS/SDD and read the value from a sensor before starting since the high pressure pumps are mechanical). I suppose a check valve in the high pressure mechanical pumps could be leaking and depressurizing the high-pressure rail without a leaky injector, but I wouldn't expect it to smell so bad after startup if it was starved for fuel, that's why I was leaning towards injectors. The biggest problem is right now that its fairly intermittent (more often than not, vehicle will start perfectly after sitting 24 hours, but about 10% of the time it exhibits this symptom) so this problem is in the early stages of failure right now. What do you think?
@@phasetek Given the background you provided I suspect two things. One, I would check the bottom timing, the HPFP timing might be off due to failed tensioner. I will post a video regarding this issue, (check the channel). I believe It is dumping fuel until it finds correct timing and it will smoke and smell on initial start. There is a way to check bottom timing using inexpensive timing tool. Before removing the injectors check timing.. Suspect Two, failed HPFP, high pressure fuel pumps. When these HPFP fail they will leak and you will have similar symptoms as what you have. I would start with this because most mechanics do not pay attention to the bottom timing and the HPFPS then they will end up with the same issue. I guess, Out of sight out of mind? Good luck.
@@gidaboautoparts9863 thank you for all the advice, you do sound really knowledgeable about this engine, and have a solid understanding of how the system works, as opposed to most of the "parts changers" out there (or people who rely on DTC codes to think for them) which is extremely unusual to find anywhere (including the dealers, they are some of the worst offenders). I've been keeping an eye on this and it is VERY intermittent. I've seen it happen less times than I can count on one hand in 2 months. If it was a HPFPS timing issue it would happen more often, or be somewhat consistent. When it happens it behaves (to me) like injector leakdown, and the fact that it is that intermittent tells me that once in a while when the injector seat closes, that there could be some microscopic piece of gunk that is causing the seat not to fully seal (unfortunately this is difficult to prove on an HPF system without a place to attach a fuel pressure gauge over many hours). I've seen the tool that looks like a square that goes in the HPFPS holes and sits on the cams that tells if its in time, but have no reason to believe this is the issue. I suppose you could be correct about a failed HPFPS leaking, but I'm not sure where they would leak into (crankcase?). If that were the case, the system would start completely depressurized (long cranking cycle until HPFPS system built up pressure), but I wouldn't expect the smell when it finally does start. I've heard some stories of the entire exhaust system filling with fuel in some of the worst cases. Unfortunately, I'm going to have to wait until this gets worse to catch it, right now for something that is driven daily and only happens once every few weeks, its going to be nearly impossible to find. These problems usually tend to show themselves most when its -20F outside and hailing, lol (sadly thats actually true for tensioner issues on this engine).
the supercharged model have a bit different engine. Some components are different for example pistons, intake and etc. When you buy part and tools you need to specify SC/NA. Both engines, SC/NA do share most parts and tools but not always. Best of luck!
Great job! Where are you? I want if you can do this for my vehicle 2011 Land Rover Range Rover. I will take care whatever the cost would be. Please help me out.
I just picked up a 2011 Rover sport with this engine. Like the project Rover, it is very clean, but I have very little history. It was overheating and I had the cooling pipe changed which addressed that. After a short test drive, it was, missing on 3, 4, and 6, with the corresponding codes plus, a P0300. So I'm switching out the battery, changing the plugs and coils, and will see how it goes. I had a 2007 supercharged before, and have worked on that, but this 5.0 V8 is different. So this video series is a great help.
Currently doing the same exact job on my 2010 HSE, I’d recommend pulling the front end off or ease and access of everything.
Looks good. I am keeping pace with my project as well. Just removed the valve covers.
Love this bro thanks
Hi Man, great work and very useful material. I am just picking up RR L322 with this engine (5.0 NA) from 2021 with 135k miles. Even I will do some basic replacements like oil or fluids, do you suggest to replace other things at beginning like timing chain and so on? anyway, if timing chain would be replaced, what manufacturer you prefer - OEM part or some other good alternative manufacturer? keep safe!
❤❤❤
Head gaskets common issue with the 2011 5.0 N/A?
I just need to replace injectors (not head gasket) on same vehicle , and I’m trying to figure out what is the minimum I need to disassemble (I don’t think the radiator, viscous fan, and possibly the plenum and upper intake manifold need to be removed and can stay if not replacing head gaskets?). Since you video didn’t show it, if you ONLY needed to access the injectors, what do you think would be shortest/least disassembly (do the valve covers have to come off to access injectors?). Thanks for the great videos!
To Replace the injectors only you need to remove the high-pressure fuel lines, the fuel rails, the coils, the left and right plastic housings in the corners, wiring harness for coils and injectors, Fuel ventilation valve and vacuum lines. You don’t need to remove the valve covers. The injectors are sitting on top of the valve cover, that being said why do you need to replace the injectors? are they leaking? What codes do you have? How is your exhaust condition? If you decided to do this keep in mind It is recommended that you replace the high-pressure fuel pumps whenever you replace the fuel injectors And when you replace the fuel pumps you need to replace the fuel cam as well.
To Replace the injectors only you need to remove the high-pressure fuel lines, the fuel rails, the coils, the left and right plastic housings in the corners, wiring harness for coils and injectors, Fuel ventilation valve and vacuum lines. You don’t need to remove the valve covers. The injectors are sitting on top of the valve cover, that being said why do you need to replace the injectors? are they leaking? What codes do you have? How is your exhaust condition? If you decided to do this keep in mind It is recommended that you replace the high-pressure fuel pumps whenever you replace the fuel injectors And when you replace the fuel pumps you need to replace the fuel cam as well.
Thank you so much for the quick reply! There are no codes or CEL, but it appears (to me) to be an injector leakdown issue. The symptom is that if vehicle has been sitting more than 24hrs, during cold start it excessively cranks (won't start) for extended periods of time before starting, and exhaust has strong odor and some smoke during this time. One vehicle is able to start after approx. 20-30sec of multiple attempts at cranking, it runs PERFECTLY (driven extended distances), and if shut down and restarted shortly thereafter, it restarts perfectly. No performance restricted or other messages in info center. No obvious signs of exhaust issues (this vehicle had a catalytic replaced approx. 60k miles ago). Already had timing chains/tensioners replaced about the same time as the catalytic (someone originally misdiagnosed the catalytic failure as a timing chain issue and replaced the tensioners/chain because that's what usually fails). Neither high pressure or low pressure pumps have been replaced on this vehicle ever. I'm not sure why the fuel cam needs to be replaced with the pumps. It sounds like more of an opportunity to screw up the pump timing than to just leave the cam and replace the pumps. The only time I have seen something similar to this on other vehicles in the past is when injectors don't completely close when engine is shut off due to partial blockage, the high pressure sitting against valve seat in injector can leak into cylinders effectively flooding the engine. The usual test for this is to leave a pressure gauge connected after the fuel rail is pressurized and then turn key off and wait. If rail pressure drops its usually either a check valve in fuel pump or injector leaking. With the dual stage system used in the 5.0L engines, there is no direct access to put a gauge on fuel rail (I suppose I could connect IDS/SDD and read the value from a sensor before starting since the high pressure pumps are mechanical). I suppose a check valve in the high pressure mechanical pumps could be leaking and depressurizing the high-pressure rail without a leaky injector, but I wouldn't expect it to smell so bad after startup if it was starved for fuel, that's why I was leaning towards injectors. The biggest problem is right now that its fairly intermittent (more often than not, vehicle will start perfectly after sitting 24 hours, but about 10% of the time it exhibits this symptom) so this problem is in the early stages of failure right now. What do you think?
@@phasetek Given the background you provided I suspect two things. One, I would check the bottom timing, the HPFP timing might be off due to failed tensioner. I will post a video regarding this issue, (check the channel). I believe It is dumping fuel until it finds correct timing and it will smoke and smell on initial start. There is a way to check bottom timing using inexpensive timing tool. Before removing the injectors check timing.. Suspect Two, failed HPFP, high pressure fuel pumps. When these HPFP fail they will leak and you will have similar symptoms as what you have. I would start with this because most mechanics do not pay attention to the bottom timing and the HPFPS then they will end up with the same issue. I guess, Out of sight out of mind? Good luck.
@@gidaboautoparts9863 thank you for all the advice, you do sound really knowledgeable about this engine, and have a solid understanding of how the system works, as opposed to most of the "parts changers" out there (or people who rely on DTC codes to think for them) which is extremely unusual to find anywhere (including the dealers, they are some of the worst offenders). I've been keeping an eye on this and it is VERY intermittent. I've seen it happen less times than I can count on one hand in 2 months. If it was a HPFPS timing issue it would happen more often, or be somewhat consistent. When it happens it behaves (to me) like injector leakdown, and the fact that it is that intermittent tells me that once in a while when the injector seat closes, that there could be some microscopic piece of gunk that is causing the seat not to fully seal (unfortunately this is difficult to prove on an HPF system without a place to attach a fuel pressure gauge over many hours). I've seen the tool that looks like a square that goes in the HPFPS holes and sits on the cams that tells if its in time, but have no reason to believe this is the issue. I suppose you could be correct about a failed HPFPS leaking, but I'm not sure where they would leak into (crankcase?). If that were the case, the system would start completely depressurized (long cranking cycle until HPFPS system built up pressure), but I wouldn't expect the smell when it finally does start. I've heard some stories of the entire exhaust system filling with fuel in some of the worst cases. Unfortunately, I'm going to have to wait until this gets worse to catch it, right now for something that is driven daily and only happens once every few weeks, its going to be nearly impossible to find. These problems usually tend to show themselves most when its -20F outside and hailing, lol (sadly thats actually true for tensioner issues on this engine).
Is the supercharged model have the same engine? If so Is the process and tools required also the same?
the supercharged model have a bit different engine. Some components are different for example pistons, intake and etc. When you buy part and tools you need to specify SC/NA. Both engines, SC/NA do share most parts and tools but not always. Best of luck!
በጣም ነው ማደንቅህ!!
What's the mileage on this Ford 5.0?
Great job! Where are you? I want if you can do this for my vehicle 2011 Land Rover Range Rover. I will take care whatever the cost would be. Please help me out.
Nashville TN USA, where are you?