Finally a video without all the drama, inane music, barking dogs, jerky video, bad sound and confusing explanations. Well done! Was exactly what I needed. Thank you!
This is EXACTLY what I needed! thank you so much! I just bought a 1970 VW Transporter and I know nothing about cars so this helped me see everything and visualize what I need to do. THANK YOU!
Thanks mate! It can be a fiddly job, so you can always mark you distributor and remove it to set the points or replace them. Then reinstall and time the engine 👍 Cheers! Ricky
Thank you so much for you kind comnent! I started this channel to put out concise, quick, easy to follow videos that don’t contain any fluff. Most of us when needing to watch a video are in the garage, half covered in grease, cold and hungry, just wanting to solve an issue on our VW. Thanks mate! I’ll be bringing some more videos out soon 😎
Also check your timing after changing the breaker gap. Timing may change and can result in less performance or overheating the engine. Always check breaker gap and then check timing!
if you pull the distributor cap and find this much oil film on your contact set and everything else is soaked like this one,you have worn distributor shaft bushings and it has blowby coming thru the shaft bushings,go ahead and clean it with brake clean and blow it out,set the points like this man instructs and get a new distributor coming in the mail,other wise it will fail,in the worse possible time,little hint,been there done that,thanks for the tutorial
Thanks that’s a great point well made. I’m currently amongst a top end rebuild, so will be most likely swapping this old dizzy for something a bit more reliable. Thanks for watching!
Very informative, but you didn't mention adding a dab of Grease on the Rotor Cam - to reduce wear on the Point Rubbing Block. I heard that's very important, and using the correct type of Grease is important as well. Thank You.
for those of you just get started on maint. pitting points is caused by wrong or def. condenser so do not just keep changing points or cleaning them get correct cond.they are rated in mfd's go to VW dealer for correct condenser better spark less damage to points
the reason gap in points is so important --- the sec .the points open the gd. is lifted off the points this starts current flow thru the coil into the cond,to gd that current flow in the coil causes the magnetic on secondary winding due to turns ratio to greate very high voltage that flows to dist rotor to proper spark plug so pitting points changes gap setting effecting the high voltage to dist.
Check your points first to make sure they are flat. Some points burn in and have dents and marks and the points need to be replaced. Using feeler gauges with marked points may result in too much clearance. If your points burn in very fast, then check the condenser. Bad condensers often result in high wear of your points.
With Golf MK1, the platinum buttons do not fit like that. You do not set it to 040mm immediately, but only when you install the upper plate with two screws, because the plate widens the contacts. As you have done, the gap will be at least 0.65mm. The plate must be installed, after that is yet to be measured, or on the removed plate the gap should be 0.20-0.25 mm, by installing it - the gap will be increased by itself, from reaching. That's what my practice says.
I’m shortly about to re-launch the channel with a new video series, and I’ll be exploring electronic ignition vs points in the first video. Electronic ignition does appear reliable and requires less maintenance than a regular points & condenser set up. More to come!
Does one need to place the rotor arm back in the same direction as when u removed it first,..prior to turning engine over to finding the highside of the cam. ?
Looks easy understand now 🏆 📹 close up clear 👌 👍 Will be BRAVE 💪 💋😘 Project is on my old 1977 Toyota 20 R engine 🛻 pick up. A Chinook RV. Putting new fail safe thermostat & gasket. Cleaned flushed radiator. New water pump & gasket. New coolant. Adjusted carb idle & idle mix screws. Bought USA store, O' Reilly's Auto parts pre- gapped points....... Will see!? 👋 👍 👌
defective or wrong value (mfd's) condenser will not allow voltage to pass thru to gd so the voltage gos to the points jumps to gd thru open points causing pitting normaly there is no current flow thru points al they are used for is lifting gd off condenser lead as they go open.
Stop rounding off all the tabs.... Close up the gap @ (.010), snug the screw. Put the feeler gauge in the contacts, slowly loosen the screw . The tension on the points will move it on base plate, giving you the gap. Those are 01-030 points, not 01-011 that came in it
Sorry for video how to set points get a feeler gauge percentage points looks like too much caffeine and this video clean the lobes on the distributor clean the dirt out of distributor check the vacuum advance if it has one and set the points easy as that not rocket science another way to is this your Gap is 16 thousands then a 15 will be loose and a 17 will be too tight 16 will be just right 😉
![ทางเดินชีวิต - ธีเดช ทองอภิชาติ x อ.ไข่ มาลีฮวนน่า [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/1f3wcG16dd4/mqdefault.jpg)
Finally a video without all the drama, inane music, barking dogs, jerky video, bad sound and confusing explanations. Well done! Was exactly what I needed. Thank you!
100% agreed
Best video on this! Thoroughly explained.
This is EXACTLY what I needed! thank you so much! I just bought a 1970 VW Transporter and I know nothing about cars so this helped me see everything and visualize what I need to do. THANK YOU!
Thanks Brad!
By far the best video on TH-cam to explain this maintenance procedure!
Thanks for the great close up views. I was not aware of the two little dimples to lever off when adjusting.
Cheers Andy, glad it helped! 😎
Thanks! I have a type IV engine but a running points right now! I wasn’t sure how to do this, now I know. Thanks again!
Excellent, thank you.
I appreciate how you showed that you adjusted twice, like I probably would need to.
Excellent.
Great video! I'm new at this and find it very fiddly in the car. Thanks for doing this on the bench - much clearer.
Thanks mate! It can be a fiddly job, so you can always mark you distributor and remove it to set the points or replace them. Then reinstall and time the engine 👍
Cheers!
Ricky
Thank you-- I haven't dealt with this since the mid-1980s, and never on a VW. Great video, saves me a ton of headache trying to remember.
Thanks mate, glad to be of some help!
Did you see that your feeler gauges were twisted and that’s why you felt drag and subsequently kept opening it?
Good spotting!
Well done - Sick and tired of out of focus, shakey, very dark, 3 foot away from small object videos. Ya done well my lad, keep up the good work.
Thank you so much for you kind comnent! I started this channel to put out concise, quick, easy to follow videos that don’t contain any fluff. Most of us when needing to watch a video are in the garage, half covered in grease, cold and hungry, just wanting to solve an issue on our VW. Thanks mate! I’ll be bringing some more videos out soon 😎
Also check your timing after changing the breaker gap. Timing may change and can result in less performance or overheating the engine. Always check breaker gap and then check timing!
Great point!
Very helpful! Perfect lens focus. Thank you so much!
Thanks Markus! I appreciate it!
Haha...The best video I've have found.....Perfect
if you pull the distributor cap and find this much oil film on your contact set and everything else is soaked like this one,you have worn distributor shaft bushings and it has blowby coming thru the shaft bushings,go ahead and clean it with brake clean and blow it out,set the points like this man instructs and get a new distributor coming in the mail,other wise it will fail,in the worse possible time,little hint,been there done that,thanks for the tutorial
Thanks that’s a great point well made. I’m currently amongst a top end rebuild, so will be most likely swapping this old dizzy for something a bit more reliable. Thanks for watching!
This is the best I've seen. Very helpful. Thank you!
Thanks mate!
Very informative, but you didn't mention adding a dab of Grease on the Rotor Cam - to reduce wear on the Point Rubbing Block. I heard that's very important, and using the correct type of Grease is important as well. Thank You.
White Lithium Grease
That’s a great point, and I did forget to demonstrate that. Cheers!
Exactly what I needed thanks
Perfect, thank you for a great and informative video!
Perfect tutorial. Thanks.
Thanks Ash!
Thanks!
Really Really good 👍
for those of you just get started on maint. pitting points is caused by wrong or def. condenser so do not just keep changing points or cleaning them get correct cond.they are rated in mfd's go to VW dealer for correct condenser better spark less damage to points
thanks right to the point i have a 66 bug, thx again
Heyyy thanks for the upload man really appreciate it:))
Not a problem mate!
the reason gap in points is so important --- the sec .the points open the gd. is lifted off the points this starts current flow thru the coil into the cond,to gd that current flow in the coil causes the magnetic on secondary winding due to turns ratio to greate very high voltage that flows to dist rotor to proper spark plug so pitting points changes gap setting effecting the high voltage to dist.
Cool thank you Just what I needed.. perfect view
Thanks mate! Appreciate the feedback. Good luck setting the points!
thank you
Good no nonsense video
My distributor is so old the adjustment nubs are gone😅 long live the 009!!!
Just now seeing this video! I can’t believe that snake didn’t bite you 😂
😂
Great tutorial.
Thank you Blessings and more Blessings
Thanks Charles
Need a good clean that dizzy 👍🏻
Check your points first to make sure they are flat. Some points burn in and have dents and marks and the points need to be replaced. Using feeler gauges with marked points may result in too much clearance. If your points burn in very fast, then check the condenser. Bad condensers often result in high wear of your points.
Thanks Ramon!
With Golf MK1, the platinum buttons do not fit like that. You do not set it to 040mm immediately, but only when you install the upper plate with two screws, because the plate widens the contacts. As you have done, the gap will be at least 0.65mm. The plate must be installed, after that is yet to be measured, or on the removed plate the gap should be 0.20-0.25 mm, by installing it - the gap will be increased by itself, from reaching. That's what my practice says.
God bless You many heartfelt thanks!!
Thanks for tuning in!
Great help thanks
Thanks mate!
great video////a great help to me//thanks
That's was soo great, thank you
Thanks Martin
Super cool. Whats your opinion about points vs no-points? Thanks
I’m shortly about to re-launch the channel with a new video series, and I’ll be exploring electronic ignition vs points in the first video. Electronic ignition does appear reliable and requires less maintenance than a regular points & condenser set up. More to come!
@@VWClassicFix awesome! Looking forward !!
very helpful, thanks a mill!!!! :-)
Thanks Andre!
Does one need to place the rotor arm back in the same direction as when u removed it first,..prior to turning engine over to finding the highside of the cam. ?
Looks easy understand now 🏆 📹 close up clear 👌 👍
Will be BRAVE 💪 💋😘
Project is on my old 1977 Toyota 20 R engine 🛻 pick up. A Chinook RV.
Putting new fail safe thermostat & gasket.
Cleaned flushed radiator.
New water pump & gasket.
New coolant.
Adjusted carb idle & idle mix screws.
Bought USA store, O' Reilly's Auto parts pre- gapped points.......
Will see!?
👋 👍 👌
Great stuff! Sounds like it’s nearly ready to crank over and start up 😎 nice one!
brilliant
Thanks!
Hi thanx for the tip... asking does that gap go with 1200cc n 1300cc engines? I hav a 66bug 1300
Hi there, yep the point gap is the same across the 1200-1600cc engines. So 1300 will be the same.
defective or wrong value (mfd's) condenser will not allow voltage to pass thru to gd so the voltage gos to the points jumps to gd thru open points causing pitting normaly there is no current flow thru points al they are used for is lifting gd off condenser lead as they go open.
What do I set the points at for 72 Volkswagen beetle
If you don't have a feeler gauge, what can be used? A butter knife?
The cardboard tab from a points or condenser box is a similar thickness. This is only to be used if you’re stuck though. Thanks
My ‘64 bug is not getting up to speed. I was hoping it was the points, but they are set correctly... any suggestions for what else to investigate?
Hi Lori, it could be in need of a tune up. Perhaps a valve adjustment, and general carb check to ensure everything is working properly?
it says point gap is 0.4 mm ( 0.016 )....can you please advice if less point gap what will case ?? like 0.2 mm ..thanks
Potentially a poor spark. Thanks
Stop rounding off all the tabs.... Close up the gap @ (.010), snug the screw. Put the feeler gauge in the contacts, slowly loosen the screw . The tension on the points will move it on base plate, giving you the gap. Those are 01-030 points, not 01-011 that came in it
What does this exactly do. My vw is not starting is this an issue that might help my situation
This triggers the coil to fire a high voltage spark, down to the distributor and on to the spark plug. Cheers
I found the contact on my point spring had snapped off so replace the " points "for $16.00
adjust the rubbing block ? you are not touch it.
Sorry for video how to set points get a feeler gauge percentage points looks like too much caffeine and this video clean the lobes on the distributor clean the dirt out of distributor check the vacuum advance if it has one and set the points easy as that not rocket science another way to is this your Gap is 16 thousands then a 15 will be loose and a 17 will be too tight 16 will be just right 😉