After fighting with a new build for an hour I refreshed my memory with this video. Followed the instructions exactly (and my distributor drive gear was a ways off) and it fired on the first crank! Thanks for an excellent video!
Thanks, this video was very helpful because you explained that static timing can be enough if you don't have a timing light. Good for people unsure if they are going to screw up their cars.
great explanation man, couldnt b better, just to the point, not like other peoples videos that explain u too much and gets u confused, dont listen to this guys complaining about why this why that, they should of post a video if they r so perfect, just my thoughts, thanks again!!!!
Having trouble with Sandrail. Sounds good idles good just doesnt go fast. its super slow as if not getting enough gas. checked the inlet to fuel pump from gas tank and it was brown fluid at first. does this mean my fuel pump is out? or do i have a timing issue perhaps?
I cant tell from the video where you are placeing the end of the testing lite on distributor. if you could please help me with this it would really help me out
I've done this several times before and works great but recently I can't get it to work I marked my timing on distributor checked tdc but now the static timing light is not going on or going out anywhere near my timing marks what could cause that
So, when you are using the timing light, are you turning the distributor and revving the engine? what if the car has a vacuum advance distributor, are the procedures different? thanks
what about vacuum hoses to dist.? I have two - leave connected or disconnect... plug? not plug? which one or both? and this is done after contacts have been set.. correct?
Im trying to use this method but te light on the tester just wont go off when I spin the distributor, any ideas of what I need to start with to correct that problem?
thanking you sir, wonderful explained, to check ignition systems. then next I need what is the relation between dynamo and cam shaft ,and working principles.
Hi pop in electric points set timing at tdc then put test light screw drive one coil on negative still wee light stays on as turn distributor left or right .... in the light stays on.. do u think is watt doing that ....big thanks
Re: static & light timing... Do I need to do both or is it either or? Also, when using the light gun, are you able to adjust to 32 degrees with the gun [using the buttons]?
@dagoldfishies Hello, yes you answered your own question, the pressure plate should match the throw out bearing.Being the early model the pressure plate should have the ring in the center. Thx ,Tony
Honestly I don't get ,why do you set the timing dynamically, after its set statically,I mean after you move your distributor you don't loose the static timing? As the angle depends for example on the octanes the gas has,which is the aim of dynamic timing? Is always the same ,or there's a mark specifically for each engine and all vw bugs are supposed to be closer to 32 degrees?. I have a vacuum advance distributor, should I have to disconnect the vacuum hose in order to set the dinamic timing? Sorry for asking so many questions . Thanks. Last but not least...does the idle change your timing?
I have that aftermarket pulley and its on 15° below top dead center when the valves are correct but I also have a 110 cam its a 74 vw 1600cc bug motor I am unsure because at that moment the light goes off and the rotor is at the 10 o'clock position
Couple of points to note : 1st. Recommend using the original svda distributor, centrifugal and vacuum advance unit. 2nd. I noticed the absence of heat riser tube - heat riser tube is essential in warming up the inlet manifold and thus helping to atomise the fuel mixture going into the engine (important even in warm climates). Other than that great vid!!! ;)
When I do static timing the light never goes off. I have a 009. Also when I have pully at tdc the rotor is pointing at 5 o'clock. But the wire is going to # 4 cyl. Buggy is running seems to have power at low range rpm mid range its running rough at heavy throttle.
The next step is to make sure fuel lines at the pump are correct, in and out. If so pull the fuel line off the carb and spin the motor over and see if fuel pump is pumping gas. If it is not pumping gas, there is a problem with the fuel pump. Double check the supply line from the tank, when disconnected from the pump, bold it down and gas should flow.
@@jameswhiteman6901 awesome vid. I'm about to learn something, can you elaborate? I thought the static timing always stayed the same regardless of idle speed b/c valves always open at that point on the pulley, i.e. 7.5 btc. Once this is set, I thought max adv was a product of the spring or mag pickup ie not tun-able? How do you tune MA and why back to the carb idle vacuum reading? I think this may be the step im missing.
Thank you very much for the video... I have a question... I have pulley like the one in the video and when I turn it to TDC the rotor points at cylinder #2 (about 2 o'clock) instead off cylinder #1 is this OK?
Hey guys I love your videos. I have a question.I watched your video on timing. I followed your steps on everything. When I got to the static timing I was confused on how you did the light. Were did you touchit to get the light to turn on? Also my light stayed on no matter where I rotated my distributer. I have a brand new one with an electronic igniton. Any help would be appreciated
If you have electronic ignition, you'll have a wire to the positive side of your coil and one to the negative. On your test light, hook to clip to ground anywhere there's no paint and the light probe to the negative side of your coil.
Make sure one end of the test light is on the coil and the other on ground. Turn distributor, light should go off and on. If it does not and you have electronic ignition, the module is bad. If you have points they are too tight and closed.
If the engine is in running condition, you're on the wrong side of the coil! You must be on the distributor side of the coil. The other terminal on the coil is always on when the ignition is on because that's the ignition switch side of the coil. IF ENGINE DOES NOT RUN and you are sure you are connected properly, then there is a fault with the points themselves or the way they are grounded.
Say I have a 1971 Bus and have a question about running a 1970 Transaxle. Well I did it without thinking and the Throw-Out is Howling when I press the clutch all the way in. What want to know is the easiest way to solve this problem. Can I just put in a 1970 Clutch? Note! The 1970 1971 years saw a design change with the Clutch and the Throw-Out and Transaxle Bell Housing.
The only sure way to accurately find #1 TDC on the cam on *ANY* even cylindered, even firing engine is to make sure the companion cylinder is on overlap. On a beetle that would be #3. On most inline 4s it would be #4. On a SBC it's #6.
Thanks for the video. So I'm being told that my test light is not coming on because my gap point isn't correct so my timing is off but I have doubled check it and it's were it should be and I still don't get any type of light, not even a flicker. I could use your help .....thanks
Question. I was trying to fix a bad running motor. As I was adjusting the carb and driving down the street, the motor died. Would not start again. I have replaced the coil, dis. with electronic ignition, cleaned the Carb. Still will not start. I am getting gas. Fire to the coil and coil wire in the list cap. When I try to set the timing with a light, it will not go out. I can turn the dist around and it will not go out. I have done it all by the book so to speak, and it will not start. Why? I did all this a couple of years ago and had no problems. Not my first Job! Thanks Mitch
@fahfeez He said 32 degrees on the video, asuming you have a stock cam. Racing cams need more advance, and then your double system is needed. You need to read the specs that come with the cam.
I have something going on with my 73 standard beetle... no 1 & 2 are firing, but not the 3 & 4. I have tried resetting the timing, changing the distributor’s out from mechanical to vacuum advance, new alternator, & voltage regulator. New plugs, points, condenser, cap, rotor.... NEVER have I run into a problem like this. I know it’s staring right at me, but I can’t figure this out! I would LOVE to bring it to you, but I’m in Kentucky!
Has anyone run into this kind of problem before? Right 2cylindwrs firing, left two cylinders NOT firing? Any, ANY advice would be GREATLY appreciated! Thanks
GOT it all figured out! Apparently, the gasket between number 3 & 4, was torn. My guess would be, because they fire sequentially, I was losing compression. That, and I took apart the new carb, sprayed it WELL with B-12 carb cleaner & put it back together. I was surprised when I bumped the starter over, and it started purring! SWEET!!!
That was the best description I’ve seen yet for setting timing. Thanks
Best video out here. Time goes by and I forget. Thanks!
After fighting with a new build for an hour I refreshed my memory with this video. Followed the instructions exactly (and my distributor drive gear was a ways off) and it fired on the first crank! Thanks for an excellent video!
Hey man your "How to" videos you have here are some of the best Ive seen - THANKS!
Excellent video mate. I knew how to do the static timing but this answered my questions on how to use the strobe light. Very clear and well done.
thank you for this. got the privilege of working on a 73 "thing" had to figure out TDC and firing order. surprisingly it fired right up.
Thanks, this video was very helpful because you explained that static timing can be enough if you don't have a timing light. Good for people unsure if they are going to screw up their cars.
thanks for the videos guys. i think this is the third time in a week that i've learned something from you.
Great video! Basic and simplified, exactly what I needed to know. Thanks!!
what a brilliantly made and informative video - nice job
Thanks mate that's just what I needed to know. .. I appreciate your time....and knowledge
This VIDEO KICKS tail. Thanks guys for helping me with timing. PLEASE do a video on how to fix rough idle!
Fabulous video, clear and very helpful. Thank you very much !
Great info and good job on speaking so slow and taking your time. shanks man. time to tear up some sand.
abrilsac
great explanation man, couldnt b better, just to the point, not like other peoples videos that explain u too much and gets u confused, dont listen to this guys complaining about why this why that, they should of post a video if they r so perfect, just my thoughts, thanks again!!!!
What a great video man!
Thank you so much!!! Dude, you are a life saver!! Thank you thank you!!!!
Ty..needed that little bit of info. Book marked this..Much appreciate.
VERY Helpful for this newbie !
Thanks! Your video really was really to follow.
Very helpful
I’ve watch this video a number of times
Almost to the point of starting my buggy
Did you start it
how about now?
Excellent video !
Thank you. Very clear!
Good info, thanks for sharing!
Thank you Sir! 🙏 I appreciate you!!!
Really liked how he addressed what if the drive is in the wrong spot!…
Thanks for the tips I'm going to enjoy rebuilding my 2110 u should do a vid on dual upright carb cleaning and adjustment
Having trouble with Sandrail. Sounds good idles good just doesnt go fast. its super slow as if not getting enough gas.
checked the inlet to fuel pump from gas tank and it was brown fluid at first. does this mean my fuel pump is out? or do i have a timing issue perhaps?
Thanks for the kind words. Don't forget to check out the valve adjustment video if you need to.
Thank you. Just about to install my new 1916cc built engine. I'll double check the timing before i fire her up.
Thank you for showing this is good
Awesome stuff!
In general, the steps in the videos you've posted are the same for a Type IV engine like what's in a baywindow bus?
Awesome video. Thanks.
I cant tell from the video where you are placeing the end of the testing lite on distributor. if you could please help me with this it would really help me out
I've done this several times before and works great but recently I can't get it to work I marked my timing on distributor checked tdc but now the static timing light is not going on or going out anywhere near my timing marks what could cause that
Thanks for the kind words. If we can be of any further help, just let us know.
So, when you are using the timing light, are you turning the distributor and revving the engine? what if the car has a vacuum advance distributor, are the procedures different? thanks
thanks great video!
great vid! thx!
Thanks for the video. I have a stock pulley with TDC mark only. I'm going to do this with a advance timing light.....that should work.
thanks, great help!
what about vacuum hoses to dist.? I have two - leave connected or disconnect... plug? not plug? which one or both? and this is done after contacts have been set.. correct?
Im trying to use this method but te light on the tester just wont go off when I spin the distributor, any ideas of what I need to start with to correct that problem?
thanks---great job
Thanks. If I ever get to Florida im buy n u beer.
thanking you sir, wonderful explained, to check ignition systems. then next I need what is the relation between dynamo and cam shaft ,and working principles.
Hi pop in electric points set timing at tdc then put test light screw drive one coil on negative still wee light stays on as turn distributor left or right .... in the light stays on.. do u think is watt doing that ....big thanks
Hey do you recommend a centrifugal or vacuum advance 009 distributor
does this method work on electronic ignition as well?
fahfeez what vehicle do you have and what type of driving are you doing?
Larry
can anyone tell me what the valve setting is on a cammed up 74 model 1600 duel port engine?
Re: static & light timing... Do I need to do both or is it either or? Also, when using the light gun, are you able to adjust to 32 degrees with the gun [using the buttons]?
You can us either static or timing light. Yes, you can adjust with gun using buttons if you have that type of timing light.
@dagoldfishies Hello, yes you answered your own question, the pressure plate should match the throw out bearing.Being the early model the pressure plate should have the ring in the center. Thx ,Tony
When rotating the top pully my bottom pully doesn't rotate do you have any advise?
Honestly I don't get ,why do you set the timing dynamically, after its set statically,I mean after you move your distributor you don't loose the static timing? As the angle depends for example on the octanes the gas has,which is the aim of dynamic timing? Is always the same ,or there's a mark specifically for each engine and all vw bugs are supposed to be closer to 32 degrees?. I have a vacuum advance distributor, should I have to disconnect the vacuum hose in order to set the dinamic timing? Sorry for asking so many questions . Thanks. Last but not least...does the idle change your timing?
Hi can I do static Timming with electronic distributor ?
Many Thank's
I have that aftermarket pulley and its on 15° below top dead center when the valves are correct but I also have a 110 cam its a 74 vw 1600cc bug motor I am unsure because at that moment the light goes off and the rotor is at the 10 o'clock position
good video
can you static time with a svda pertronix distributor? thanks
We will put cleaning and adjustment of dual carbs on our list of videos to do. Thanks
I have dual 40mm Kadrons on a stock 1600, does the timing change at all?
where do you touch the light to make it light up and go away? thanks
hi just pick up a 69 bug and i notice it back fire can u tell me what i should look for.
Couple of points to note : 1st. Recommend using the original svda distributor, centrifugal and vacuum advance unit. 2nd. I noticed the absence of heat riser tube - heat riser tube is essential in warming up the inlet manifold and thus helping to atomise the fuel mixture going into the engine (important even in warm climates). Other than that great vid!!! ;)
What if you don't have a distributor that doesn't advance. What sound the timming be set at.
Good night sir how can i adjust the carburetor float correctly. burning too much Gas
When I do static timing the light never goes off. I have a 009. Also when I have pully at tdc the rotor is pointing at 5 o'clock. But the wire is going to # 4 cyl. Buggy is running seems to have power at low range rpm mid range its running rough at heavy throttle.
Does this work with electronic ignition?
The next step is to make sure fuel lines at the pump are correct, in and out. If so pull the fuel line off the carb and spin the motor over and see if fuel pump is pumping gas. If it is not pumping gas, there is a problem with the fuel pump. Double check the supply line from the tank, when disconnected from the pump, bold it down and gas should flow.
Hi can use make a video on how to tune 44idf dual carby on a vw type 3 engine
In my case, my test light won't turn off, it dim or go really bright. Any idea what is going on?.... Thanks!
Correct. Once you set the max advance the static timing is out the window. At that point you adjust the carb idle.
Correct and adjust air fuel screw to the highest vacuum reading ....gold ..
Add some lumpy cams and exhaust...LoL...
@@jameswhiteman6901 awesome vid. I'm about to learn something, can you elaborate? I thought the static timing always stayed the same regardless of idle speed b/c valves always open at that point on the pulley, i.e. 7.5 btc. Once this is set, I thought max adv was a product of the spring or mag pickup ie not tun-able? How do you tune MA and why back to the carb idle vacuum reading? I think this may be the step im missing.
How can you check static timing with electronic ignition?
did all this and it fires right up now tho it seems to still be getting a bit hot any tips on that? great video btw was a big help
Thank you very much for the video... I have a question... I have pulley like the one in the video and when I turn it to TDC the rotor points at cylinder #2 (about 2 o'clock) instead off cylinder #1 is this OK?
Watch "Classic VW Beetle Bug Ghia Bus How to Time Set Volkswagen Engine Timing" on TH-cam
th-cam.com/video/787INwvir24/w-d-xo.html
what is he connecting the light tester to?
Yes, light should flicker when you move distributor with electronic iginition
Hey guys I love your videos. I have a question.I watched your video on timing. I followed your steps on everything. When I got to the static timing I was confused on how you did the light. Were did you touchit to get the light to turn on? Also my light stayed on no matter where I rotated my distributer. I have a brand new one with an electronic igniton. Any help would be appreciated
You ever figure out the problem?
If you have electronic ignition, you'll have a wire to the positive side of your coil and one to the negative. On your test light, hook to clip to ground anywhere there's no paint and the light probe to the negative side of your coil.
What would cause my bug to bogg down not have any power it wont let me shift in to 4th cause to weak.. why?
What is the engine that can be installed from other large and powerful engines ???👑🇩🇿
Nice!
Hi Tony, What would make the test light stay on when I turn the distributor? Thanks for the great videos.
Make sure one end of the test light is on the coil and the other on ground. Turn distributor, light should go off and on. If it does not and you have electronic ignition, the module is bad. If you have points they are too tight and closed.
+hardwoodmichael Crap in the points.
If the engine is in running condition, you're on the wrong side of the coil! You must be on the distributor side of the coil. The other terminal on the coil is always on when the ignition is on because that's the ignition switch side of the coil. IF ENGINE DOES NOT RUN and you are sure you are connected properly, then there is a fault with the points themselves or the way they are grounded.
Say I have a 1971 Bus and have a question about running a 1970 Transaxle. Well I did it without thinking and the Throw-Out is Howling when I press the clutch all the way in. What want to know is the easiest way to solve this problem. Can I just put in a 1970 Clutch? Note! The 1970 1971 years saw a design change with the Clutch and the Throw-Out and Transaxle Bell Housing.
The only sure way to accurately find #1 TDC on the cam on *ANY* even cylindered, even firing engine is to make sure the companion cylinder is on overlap. On a beetle that would be #3. On most inline 4s it would be #4. On a SBC it's #6.
great thanx
hey my friend please help from venezuela. how can i adjust, a engle w110 in a 1600 engine. how many degrees btdc? or anything? thank u.
Can you tell me how much HP a 2316 makes
can some body help me with some wiring problems? someone keeps messing with me cause no lock on motor...please help!
Tony rotated distributer to 5 O,clock then rotated 180 still couldnt get valve to float on number 2 valve what go wrong here!!!
Thank you for watching
My test light stays on no matter how much i turn distributor. I removed points and put in electronic.should this make a difference?
Now we just wait for the light to go out......."BOOP!"
4real lol
Thanks for the video. So I'm being told that my test light is not coming on because my gap point isn't correct so my timing is off but I have doubled check it and it's were it should be and I still don't get any type of light, not even a flicker. I could use your help .....thanks
PhillyD H clarity is everything in tutorial vids, huh. very good job
I have a 1961-1200 I think 25 hp 6volt is it worth money
Question. I was trying to fix a bad running motor. As I was adjusting the carb and driving down the street, the motor died. Would not start again. I have replaced the coil, dis. with electronic ignition, cleaned the Carb. Still will not start. I am getting gas. Fire to the coil and coil wire in the list cap. When I try to set the timing with a light, it will not go out. I can turn the dist around and it will not go out. I have done it all by the book so to speak, and it will not start. Why? I did all this a couple of years ago and had no problems. Not my first Job!
Thanks Mitch
@fahfeez He said 32 degrees on the video, asuming you have a stock cam. Racing cams need more advance, and then your double system is needed. You need to read the specs that come with the cam.
I have something going on with my 73 standard beetle... no 1 & 2 are firing, but not the 3 & 4. I have tried resetting the timing, changing the distributor’s out from mechanical to vacuum advance, new alternator, & voltage regulator. New plugs, points, condenser, cap, rotor.... NEVER have I run into a problem like this. I know it’s staring right at me, but I can’t figure this out! I would LOVE to bring it to you, but I’m in Kentucky!
Has anyone run into this kind of problem before? Right 2cylindwrs firing, left two cylinders NOT firing? Any, ANY advice would be GREATLY appreciated! Thanks
GOT it all figured out! Apparently, the gasket between number 3 & 4, was torn. My guess would be, because they fire sequentially, I was losing compression. That, and I took apart the new carb, sprayed it WELL with B-12 carb cleaner & put it back together. I was surprised when I bumped the starter over, and it started purring! SWEET!!!