I just pulled mine out and now they're over 40k and no change at all. Could have left them but I was doing a wire change anyway so I splurged and got Bosch. We'll see how well these work but the NGKs are in the toolbox just in case.
Nice video, but could you give the part number for the correct bosch plug? You rave about how bad the ngk is then "this is the right bosch plug with the resistor" but never give a part number.
Great vid! ...I'm glad you covered this issue and I fully agree! My 1600 will not run well with NGK plugs, it's getting harder to find Bosch plugs so I have found that Autolites work well!
Swapped out the NGK specced plugs on my type 4 for Bosch W8CC and difference was noticable staright away. Pulled cleaner/smoother as well. Thanks for advice that actually made a difference
@@alfonsocruz6156 There really is only one Bosch plug for the type 4 and it comes in 2 heat ranges. there are multiple style NG plugs My car is relative std compression so i used the 8 heat grade. A type 1 engine is a whole other story with multiple type of Bosch and multiuple heat grades. the Tyopoe 4 is bit mor emlimited for choice
Because the bosch wbcc, cc meaning copper core. Which is for points ignition. BR, R meaning resistor on NGK. Resistor plugs are for electronic ignition. It's not the brand, rather the proper plug type per ignition type.
NGK the greatest plug of all time ... in all vehicles. But the issue with yours was not the plug brand.... but the fact the old ones were fouled. Plugs of any type dont last too long in a VW due to the rich mixture, rudimentary carb, etc etc.
Which VW shipped with a rich carb setting? You don’t know what you’re talking about. “Plugs of any type don’t last too long in a VW”…says who? I haven’t changed mine in more years than I can remember.
And how is that the plugs fault? Did you gap them? Did you buy the correct heat range? Correct shaft length? There is absolutely nothing wrong with NGK plugs
VW plug cable connectors have 1k ohms resistance already. Why would you want to increase resistance, compromising the secondary circuit? (Sorry. but was VW/Porsche/BMW factory trained early on. Ran a very successful Calif. business for years, in the business for 65 years)
I can't express the happiness I just experience LEARNING through this video that my problem is the spurk plugs NGK that I just purchased from Orrelys auto parts. Definitely Im gone get the right ones for my bug. Thank Bud for this very helpful video.
@@lariolouw5677 Recommendations are to put it under the tank between the tank and steel line. Others put it behind the firewall. Most do have it exactly where you see it. As long as you change your fuel line out occasionally, should be fine. Once the rubber starts to split, then the potential for fire is greatly increased.
@@lariolouw5677 the engine bay gets extremely hot and the cheap plastic fuel filters in the engine bay are at risk of bursting and spraying fuel directly onto the coil/distributor. you need to be very careful because these old bugs love to catch on fire, pay attention to the fuel line and filter.
This is great, you answered the very question about the very vehicle that I'm working on, so now I'm going to swap out spark plugs with some proper Bosch see what happens
I really appreciate this, I recently replaced the old Bosch plugs with NGK and just like you said I have the identical issues with my 63. I will order the Bosch plugs and get the ole bug running right again. Thanks so much, right in the middle of restoring the bug, it has been sitting in a carport for 30 yrs.👍
Back in the late 70's and early 80's I had three VWs. Ran both Bosch and NGK. Never a problem. My 67 bus had a fairly modified engine (high lift cam, Porsche valves, 1855 jugs, two barrel Holley - had to keep the pedal "light" to preserve the transaxle) and ran great with either brand. Maybe things have changed...along with everything else.
My mother had two VW's. She always had Bosch plugs installed. Also when she needed a new voltage regulator, she always had Bosh installed because the aftermarket ones would only last a week, and need replacing.
Back when air cooled VW's were cheap and common as dirt if you used Champion spark plugs when you removed them the aluminum threads would stuck to the plug threads leaving you with stripped spark plug threads in the head's. I had an adapter for my mill just for installing steel repair plugs to fix the stripped threads. These plugs were not simply helicoil thread repair parts but a threaded plug with a flange with stakes that held the repair plug in place. You had to use a mill to install them in a head.
had a set of champions in mine when I got it. they sucked and didn't run well, luckily they hadn't been in there all too long and came out easy. also running a single port which is a little looser which im sure saved me some hassle.
Thanks for the info bro I have the same problem with my engine in my 72 bug its running just the same I'll give different plugs a go fingers crossed thanks from the UK great video
The black bug would run even better with the correct distributor, to match the carburetor. 009 distributors are great for all out racing and spare to get you home.👍
Did you put anti-seize lubricant on the plug threads? VERY important on aluminum heads...once you strip a head, you'll be obsessed with rubbing it on your plug threads .
I've been running NGK resistor plugs, BR6ES, but generally prefer Bosch parts. What do you think? If plug resistor type is the key, would any resistor plug do the trick?
I'm gonna have to ask. I'm a detective, thus a weekend mechanic and a rookie to it. Are you referring to the Petronix hall effect ignition system inside the dizzy which someone higher up in this thread mentioned? Please educate me.
Surprised by this what code NGK did you thrown on the floor just curious. The NGK plug B5HS is an excellent top quality plug and suits the aircooled VW perfectly I have used them for a long time and never had this issue. Love the garage, I would die for a workshop like that!
Me too! I used only B5HS for my Beetle. In order to further increase the engine efficiency, and also give a slight increase in power output, throw away the old Contact Breakers. Fit a Hall Effect Ignition system, such as Pertronix. This Unit fits inside your existing Distributor. Ultra reliable, easy starting. And an even smoother-running engine without misfires.
Of course, you don't need plugs in a beetle that won't interfere with the radio because they're so damn loud you can't hear the radio anyway... I hate the damned things, but I enjoy watching people fix them. Thanks, feller, useful information entertainingly imparted. p.s. what happened to that Triumph Herald? For my sins I'm a Triumph fan. (Absolutely nothing to do with the motorcycle manufacturer, btw, for anyone that didn't know). Happy New Year, y'all.
@@driveanalog747 That is probably the worst example that I've ever seen, so good luck with that. And Heralds, being chassis based have been robbed out by the thousands to be turned into kit cars. So, do your worst and feel free. Looking forward to it. Thanks.
@@driveanalog747 And why not. Heralds were also chassis cars and as a result countless thousands were turned into kit cars. Your example is too far gone for economic restoration so go for it, say I.
Its funny..I stopped using Bosch once the German ones disappeared. I love NGK quality. You can get them in resistor style. Problem with them is there are SO many choices in type and heat range etc. I wish I could still depend on Bosch...but had a couple different bad ones the last couple years. And don't get me started on their condensers
You can get the correct plugs in NGK but I have never had good luck with them. They tend to foul out quickly. NGK's are very good but just don't work in aircooled cars. The other thing I didn't mention is with a resistor it has a longer spark time. I had a viewer give me a hard time about that.
This is a 'Car requires full tune-up' issue or 'old fouled plug vs new plug', not NGK vs Bosch. New NGKs would have had the same results if they are the right spec. By the sound of it and looking at those old plugs i'd venture to guess a full tuneup should have been in order; plugs, wires, rotor, points, cap, condenser, fuel filter, oil, and the ?CARBS? You could hear it even after the new plugs were installed she still wasn't running just right ... I've been servicing vehicles running Bosch or NGK for over 25 years and in all of my own cars, those are the only ones I ever use and never seen a difference between the brands unless they were fouled or the wrong spec/gap. Even on 1000+ hp engines if the plug temperature and gap ain't right detonation and $$$ problems can occur
you are right ..., finally I read the correct comment .. , I also tried many spark plugs brands and types from bosch or champion .., the engine runs very very good but for short period of time then it runs bad and lose power .., people think they can fix a tolerance issue by just changing the spark plugs brand .. , those aircooled engines seems very sensetive to correct tolerances and clearence between parts ...,
My eyes are 67 years old. I was unable to read the Bosch Part number on the box he showed us. What is the correct Bosch Part number for a 1973 VW Type 1 Bug, 1600 completely stock.
Looks like the distributor may not be stock (looks to be a Bosch 009, which has a mechanical advance. These were added as a performance upgrade), as there is no vacuum advance on it. This may also affect how the engine runs.
It would be helpful to have the part number for the Bosch plug you are saying is the correct one. You never give the Part number and I don’t see it anywhere in your description. Oh far every part store I’ve checked with does not have a Bosch plug to cross references from the NGK I have been running. So where do you get the correct one please?
I had Hondoo with new Champion plugs - ran like poo. NGK all the way for a Hondoo. For VW I take your drift but are sure NGK don’t make the right plug?
NGK's are great for Honda's! Not so much for aircooled VW's. They do make a plug for them but i have never had good luck with them. Thanks for the comment and watching. Happy New Year!
What carb and distributor combo should i use on my 74 bug? I bought it and it has an aftermarket carb and i have no clue what all work has been done to it but it runs horrible
Hey I just had a question I was driving my Volkswagen the other day and my points system was off I came to find that the little plastic piece had broken so I changed the I was driving in my car just shut off
Ive got an 1100 something in a formula vee im having a hell of a time chasing a seemingly similar issue. Thiught we swapped out to the bosch's but now i need to recheck.... had a massive leakdown bypass so i just relapped the valves back in, then found the #3 intake rocker was hitting on the retainer... cleaned all that up, leakdown was great, but still only makes 125-130 psi and has this sort of lean bog/stutter. And i dont want tobwaste a day tesring the carb apart because the acceleratoe pump doesnt spray very nicely. It just kind gushes out and some of it spurts out the top. Im used to webers and they have a nice solid stream. So instinct is accelerator pump.
would you have any idea why one side exhaust is not getting warm. engine is running but not right. I put in new spark plugs and leads and cap. but still one side is cold.
Some time on a beetle, it could be fuel mixture, on nmbr 3 plug, because of oil cooler, blocking the cooling air, from reaching nmbr 3 cylinder. A problem I had on my 68 1641 cc beetle it always ran hot on nmbr 3. Hope this helps.😊
i see so many bugs on TH-cam with those plastic fuel filters in the engine bay, they get hot in there & have a tendency to fail quicker spilling all the fuel on the hot exhaust = fire - they should be fixed on the hose as it leaves the gas tank underneath up front - this will also stop any crap getting into the fuel pipe in the tunnel & any slight leakage you will smell it right away as its in front of you as you drive - nice vid though 👍
NGK plugs are just fine. Your off idle acceleration issue is due to the 009 distributer you're using. I'd venture to say it's not 100% set correctly as well. It could also account for lack of max rpm/speed but I'd look at possible throttle cable slack. 2. You need to get a vacuum advance distributor. 034 SVDA 3. Your fuel filter is mounted in a dangerous location. It should never be mounted after the fuel pump. It needs to be moved outside the engine bay. 4. Why is there a ceramic resistor beside the coil? If it's old school coil it needs to be mounted upright. Best solution is a newer style 3 ohm coil which eliminates the need of a ceramic resistor and it can be mounted upside down.
So I watched this and was a bit skeptical, but I changed out my nkg plugs that was in this bug when I got it , and while I couldn’t get Bosh plugs in stock I did try some auto lite copper plugs and it did make a huge difference on it . 13.00 dollars later and my life could have been out driving this thing in 60 degrees instead of 42 degrees, mine is a beach buggy not heat lol
I just changed the plugs on a 73 but couldn't find the Bosch ones. they are made in the Ukraine, I think. the ngk worked ok for me but I prefer the Bosch ones
not questioning your knowledge or experience at all, but without explaining why the plugs you removed weren't suitable for this particular engine, no one is the wiser. If the manufacturer specifies a certain type of plug, it is because it will have a specific thread length, pitch and diameter (determined by which cylinder heads you have fitted,) a specific electrode length (most applicable to the design of the combustion chamber in the head), a specific heat range (based on the normal operating temperature range of the engine and prescribed octane rating) and if it's a resistor type plug, a specific resistance (in conjunction with HT leads & caps, to reduce RF and provide optimim spark, depending on the ignition coil fitted. To say that VW aicooled beetles don't run properly on NGKs is nonsense. If everything was bone stock and made to OEM specifications, then perhaps the german made Bosch plug originally fitted are marginally better than another brand, but as you said, this is a relatively new motor, probably has a different ignition coil, leads, caps, points etc, all of which will differ from OEM specifications and create a different set of requirements....besides which, NGKs have a rolled thread form,as opposed to a 'cut thread' which lessens the chances of wearing the threading in the aluminium heads....hence why most engine builders would reccommend the right NGK plug, over and above a Bosch or other brand. I gave up on bosch plugs (made in India) when three out of four new plugs were bad from new...if I'm buying plugs, it shouldn't be a lottery. It's more a case of undertsanding which plug is most suited to your particular set up, hotter, colder, projected, resisted etc etc....it's not so much to do with the brand, in my opinion
And judging from the end of that plug he removed... a lesson on how to read what it's telling and understand how to properly tune he may not dismiss ngk for bosch. Eh...it's his video
I find NGK doesn't work good in any older Air cooled carburetored motor especially two stroke. In my experience they don't last very long if you do use them.
Good heavens. Get the fuel filter out of there and behind the firewall (and use a metal one). Spark plugs won’t be the problem when the car burns to the ground.
Ngks are fine. If it's points run a non resistor copper core plug with copper plug wires. If you have electronic ignition run a resistor plug with carbon core wires. It's not the brand. It's the plug type.
The resistor is built into the plug wire bake light connector so now you have 2 resistors . This guy knows nothing . I use ngk in all 8 of my collector cars
BS!!! 3 things maestro! 1) These engines need to warm up properly before they loose the hesitation. 2) You have it idling way too low so you'll have overheating issues when idling @ lights. 3) You didn't show the plug colours so, no one can see how well carb is tuned. Great ;)
Do you really think that changing brands of spark plug was the problem? I noticed you didn't go out of your way to show the old plugs that came out, you just blamed the brand of the plug. I could see both of the plug you pulled out was totally black from the engine running too rich which will foul out the plugs no matter what brand they are. If you don't lean out the fuel mix then your new Bosch plugs will be in the same shape as "the other brand". A fair test to see is as you say the NGK won't run in a VW then you should put in a new set of NGKs on camera & show the world how bad it runs then put your new Bosch in & show the difference. And while we're @ it, gassing on the engine is not the way to show how smooth an engine runs. Thanks for asking!
You should learn the science of a spark plug, I agree with the other fellow to get a good parts man. Has nothing to do with make. I use ngk and my engine runs perfect
Volkswagen doesn't like resistors what are the brown things at the end of the ignition wire where it terminates at the spark plug, the little brown thing is called a resistor 150 across-the-board sounds like somebody flight cut the head 150 is a short-lived Volkswagen motor that leaks oil
I've used NGK BR5HS plugs as long as I've driven Beetles and I've never had an issue. The set in my rat has been there for 30k trouble free miles.
He is pay 💰 for Bosh LoL 😂
same here
I just pulled mine out and now they're over 40k and no change at all. Could have left them but I was doing a wire change anyway so I splurged and got Bosch. We'll see how well these work but the NGKs are in the toolbox just in case.
Nice video, but could you give the part number for the correct bosch plug? You rave about how bad the ngk is then "this is the right bosch plug with the resistor" but never give a part number.
You make the plug change look easy. It's so tight on my 73 to get to the plugs. Not my favorite job. Another fun video, keep them coming!
Dual ports are a bit tighter then a single port. I've also done it a couple of times> Haha! Thanks for watching.
Great vid! ...I'm glad you covered this issue and I fully agree! My 1600 will not run well with NGK plugs, it's getting harder to find Bosch plugs so I have found that Autolites work well!
Swapped out the NGK specced plugs on my type 4 for Bosch W8CC and difference was noticable staright away. Pulled cleaner/smoother as well. Thanks for advice that actually made a difference
🤔 he never mentioned the # why 😂
@@alfonsocruz6156 There really is only one Bosch plug for the type 4 and it comes in 2 heat ranges. there are multiple style NG plugs My car is relative std compression so i used the 8 heat grade. A type 1 engine is a whole other story with multiple type of Bosch and multiuple heat grades. the Tyopoe 4 is bit mor emlimited for choice
Because the bosch wbcc, cc meaning copper core. Which is for points ignition. BR, R meaning resistor on NGK. Resistor plugs are for electronic ignition. It's not the brand, rather the proper plug type per ignition type.
exactly what mine is doing right now and I just put replacement NGK in it because the previous set of NGK’s were totally fouled
NGK the greatest plug of all time ... in all vehicles. But the issue with yours was not the plug brand.... but the fact the old ones were fouled. Plugs of any type dont last too long in a VW due to the rich mixture, rudimentary carb, etc etc.
Which VW shipped with a rich carb setting? You don’t know what you’re talking about. “Plugs of any type don’t last too long in a VW”…says who? I haven’t changed mine in more years than I can remember.
I have always used NGK in my Bug, no issues??
I fully agree with you, I tried a new set of NGK plugs and my bug ran like shit!
And how is that the plugs fault? Did you gap them? Did you buy the correct heat range? Correct shaft length?
There is absolutely nothing wrong with NGK plugs
VW plug cable connectors have 1k ohms resistance already. Why would you want to increase resistance, compromising the secondary circuit?
(Sorry. but was VW/Porsche/BMW factory trained early on. Ran a very successful Calif. business for years, in the business for 65 years)
Nice video, just as an observation, that fuel filter near the distributor and coil is a time bomb
Especially if the fuel fitting comes loose from the top of the carb and gas is spread all over the distributor area.
I can't express the happiness I just experience LEARNING through this video that my problem is the spurk plugs NGK that I just purchased from Orrelys auto parts. Definitely Im gone get the right ones for my bug. Thank Bud for this very helpful video.
Great video. I've only ever used Bosch in mine, useful info on the NGK's.
I'd also get that fuel filter out the engine bay.
Thanks man! Hope you're well. I haven't seen you in a while.
Please motivate?
I'm also learning here
About the filter out of the bay, that is.
@@lariolouw5677 Recommendations are to put it under the tank between the tank and steel line. Others put it behind the firewall. Most do have it exactly where you see it. As long as you change your fuel line out occasionally, should be fine. Once the rubber starts to split, then the potential for fire is greatly increased.
@@lariolouw5677 the engine bay gets extremely hot and the cheap plastic fuel filters in the engine bay are at risk of bursting and spraying fuel directly onto the coil/distributor. you need to be very careful because these old bugs love to catch on fire, pay attention to the fuel line and filter.
This is great, you answered the very question about the very vehicle that I'm working on, so now I'm going to swap out spark plugs with some proper Bosch see what happens
I really appreciate this, I recently replaced the old Bosch plugs with NGK and just like you said I have the identical issues with my 63.
I will order the Bosch plugs and get the ole bug running right again. Thanks so much, right in the middle of restoring the bug, it has been sitting in a carport for 30 yrs.👍
Major help !!! Thank you so much !!
That’s amazing that a set of plugs wood make that big of difference. Thank you for sharing!
Thanks for watching!
I had a 09 in mine when I got it, u are 100%correct
Back in the late 70's and early 80's I had three VWs. Ran both Bosch and NGK. Never a problem. My 67 bus had a fairly modified engine (high lift cam, Porsche valves, 1855 jugs, two barrel Holley - had to keep the pedal "light" to preserve the transaxle) and ran great with either brand. Maybe things have changed...along with everything else.
My mother had two VW's. She always had Bosch plugs installed. Also when she needed a new voltage regulator, she always had Bosh installed because the aftermarket ones would only last a week, and need replacing.
Back when air cooled VW's were cheap and common as dirt if you used Champion spark plugs when you removed them the aluminum threads would stuck to the plug threads leaving you with stripped spark plug threads in the head's. I had an adapter for my mill just for installing steel repair plugs to fix the stripped threads. These plugs were not simply helicoil thread repair parts but a threaded plug with a flange with stakes that held the repair plug in place. You had to use a mill to install them in a head.
This happened to me
Champion work well in fords and many British made cars but not VW's.
had a set of champions in mine when I got it. they sucked and didn't run well, luckily they hadn't been in there all too long and came out easy. also running a single port which is a little looser which im sure saved me some hassle.
Good video! Learnt alot ! What the bosch plug number /code?
ngk r runs great in my 1700, have 37 pict3 and svda with pertronix
ngk plugs are fine, they just aren't right for a points setup- the bosch plugs are straight copper plugs and the ngk have some resistance
Oh, the memories…between my wife and I we had a ‘62, a ‘64, a ‘67 and a ‘70 beetle and an ‘82 diesel Jetta ❤️
Thanks for the info bro I have the same problem with my engine in my 72 bug its running just the same I'll give different plugs a go fingers crossed thanks from the UK great video
Snap & snap 72 and uk and same prob 😂- did it work?
The black bug would run even better with the correct distributor, to match the carburetor. 009 distributors are great for all out racing and spare to get you home.👍
I've always used 009 distributors in all of my VWs with no issues.
Exactly! For a stock street car the 009 is an old fad that just refuses to die
Did you put anti-seize lubricant on the plug threads? VERY important on aluminum heads...once you strip a head, you'll be obsessed with rubbing it on your plug threads
.
have you ever stripped spark plug thread?
Plug part number mystery .. would be to hard to zoom in on the box whilst knowing all that is to be known i guess
Bosh are made in China 😂
Great Video.. Five Stars 🌟🌟🌟🌟 !!! Great and TRUTHFUL advice. Thank you. If you want correct performance always use OEM German parts BOSCH = QUALITY.
Great video....i also have that problem...thanks
I've been running NGK resistor plugs, BR6ES, but generally prefer Bosch parts. What do you think? If plug resistor type is the key, would any resistor plug do the trick?
My advice is ALWAYS use ANTI-SEIZURE compound on your spark plugs . It seems to eliminate grief in the long run 👍. Keep on bugging !
Just subbed up love the air cooled content awesome job
Great job ,,, ,,one thing I can't understand is why aren't people using electronic Ignition on these cars now A lot of people are still using points
Life is too short to run points!🙂
I have the same car and would never run points again. Your thoughts are correct
@@tattoojosh1 I also have to agree, that the quantum leap forward for me - was installing electronic ignition. A huge benefit to any Beetle!
I'm gonna have to ask. I'm a detective, thus a weekend mechanic and a rookie to it. Are you referring to the Petronix hall effect ignition system inside the dizzy which someone higher up in this thread mentioned? Please educate me.
Surprised by this what code NGK did you thrown on the floor just curious. The NGK plug B5HS is an excellent top quality plug and suits the aircooled VW perfectly I have used them for a long time and never had this issue. Love the garage, I would die for a workshop like that!
Me too! I used only B5HS for my Beetle. In order to further increase the engine efficiency, and also give a slight increase in power output, throw away the old Contact Breakers. Fit a Hall Effect Ignition system, such as Pertronix. This Unit fits inside your existing Distributor. Ultra reliable, easy starting. And an even smoother-running engine without misfires.
@@peterduxbury927 Fit 8mm spark cables, better than stock.
What did you said about removing something on the spark plug
I had a 74 Super years ago.....the best machinery I ever owned....sad I got rid of it
Of course, you don't need plugs in a beetle that won't interfere with the radio because they're so damn loud you can't hear the radio anyway... I hate the damned things, but I enjoy watching people fix them. Thanks, feller, useful information entertainingly imparted. p.s. what happened to that Triumph Herald? For my sins I'm a Triumph fan. (Absolutely nothing to do with the motorcycle manufacturer, btw, for anyone that didn't know). Happy New Year, y'all.
The herald is sitting where we left it. I have a few ideas for it.
@@driveanalog747 That is probably the worst example that I've ever seen, so good luck with that. And Heralds, being chassis based have been robbed out by the thousands to be turned into kit cars. So, do your worst and feel free. Looking forward to it. Thanks.
@@billdyke9745 Im Thinking of dropping the body on a beetle chassis. What do ya think?
@@driveanalog747 And why not. Heralds were also chassis cars and as a result countless thousands were turned into kit cars. Your example is too far gone for economic restoration so go for it, say I.
Buy a better radio 🤣
Its funny..I stopped using Bosch once the German ones disappeared. I love NGK quality. You can get them in resistor style. Problem with them is there are SO many choices in type and heat range etc. I wish I could still depend on Bosch...but had a couple different bad ones the last couple years. And don't get me started on their condensers
You can get the correct plugs in NGK but I have never had good luck with them. They tend to foul out quickly. NGK's are very good but just don't work in aircooled cars. The other thing I didn't mention is with a resistor it has a longer spark time. I had a viewer give me a hard time about that.
Bosch used to be so much better, they kinda suck now
what is the code for the plugs you used? i know you showed it on camera but i cant make out what it says in the box
This is a 'Car requires full tune-up' issue or 'old fouled plug vs new plug', not NGK vs Bosch. New NGKs would have had the same results if they are the right spec. By the sound of it and looking at those old plugs i'd venture to guess a full tuneup should have been in order; plugs, wires, rotor, points, cap, condenser, fuel filter, oil, and the ?CARBS? You could hear it even after the new plugs were installed she still wasn't running just right ...
I've been servicing vehicles running Bosch or NGK for over 25 years and in all of my own cars, those are the only ones I ever use and never seen a difference between the brands unless they were fouled or the wrong spec/gap. Even on 1000+ hp engines if the plug temperature and gap ain't right detonation and $$$ problems can occur
you are right ..., finally I read the correct comment .. , I also tried many spark plugs brands and types from bosch or champion .., the engine runs very very good but for short period of time then it runs bad and lose power .., people think they can fix a tolerance issue by just changing the spark plugs brand .. , those aircooled engines seems very sensetive to correct tolerances and clearence between parts ...,
Thanks bro t,care❤
Thanks
Merry new year Justin. Keep up the great work.
Thanks so much! Merry new year to you too!
My eyes are 67 years old. I was unable to read the Bosch Part number on the box he showed us. What is the correct Bosch Part number for a 1973 VW Type 1 Bug, 1600 completely stock.
How to solve fuel leak on carb thnks man
Looks like the distributor may not be stock (looks to be a Bosch 009, which has a mechanical advance. These were added as a performance upgrade), as there is no vacuum advance on it. This may also affect how the engine runs.
It would be helpful to have the part number for the Bosch plug you are saying is the correct one. You never give the Part number and I don’t see it anywhere in your description.
Oh far every part store I’ve checked with does not have a Bosch plug to cross references from the NGK I have been running. So where do you get the correct one please?
I had Hondoo with new Champion plugs - ran like poo. NGK all the way for a Hondoo. For VW I take your drift but are sure NGK don’t make the right plug?
NGK's are great for Honda's! Not so much for aircooled VW's. They do make a plug for them but i have never had good luck with them. Thanks for the comment and watching. Happy New Year!
What carb and distributor combo should i use on my 74 bug? I bought it and it has an aftermarket carb and i have no clue what all work has been done to it but it runs horrible
Hey I just had a question I was driving my Volkswagen the other day and my points system was off I came to find that the little plastic piece had broken so I changed the I was driving in my car just shut off
Ok, I read all of the comments and 50% are asking for the part number for the Bosch. Can you please list it. Great Video by the way. I'm learning!
I literally thought it would be what most people overlook a set of points and condenser and or a coil breaking down
Ive got an 1100 something in a formula vee im having a hell of a time chasing a seemingly similar issue. Thiught we swapped out to the bosch's but now i need to recheck.... had a massive leakdown bypass so i just relapped the valves back in, then found the #3 intake rocker was hitting on the retainer... cleaned all that up, leakdown was great, but still only makes 125-130 psi and has this sort of lean bog/stutter. And i dont want tobwaste a day tesring the carb apart because the acceleratoe pump doesnt spray very nicely. It just kind gushes out and some of it spurts out the top. Im used to webers and they have a nice solid stream. So instinct is accelerator pump.
Is that the 911 that you and Mustie saved?
Is that car an original black ‘69?
would you have any idea why one side exhaust is not getting warm. engine is running but not right. I put in new spark plugs and leads and cap. but still one side is cold.
Some time on a beetle, it could be fuel mixture, on nmbr 3 plug, because of oil cooler, blocking the cooling air, from reaching nmbr 3 cylinder. A problem I had on my 68 1641 cc beetle it always ran hot on nmbr 3. Hope this helps.😊
So, what # plug did you put in?
What is the plug number? I'd like to give this a whirl!
That's weird the the condenser was on the side facing you. Most 009 distributor the condenser is facing away from you where you can't see it
I'll say though, those multi electrode plugs have no business in a classic. Seen a lot of old cars run like crap with them
agree!
i see so many bugs on TH-cam with those plastic fuel filters in the engine bay, they get hot in there & have a tendency to fail quicker spilling all the fuel on the hot exhaust = fire - they should be fixed on the hose as it leaves the gas tank underneath up front - this will also stop any crap getting into the fuel pipe in the tunnel & any slight leakage you will smell it right away as its in front of you as you drive - nice vid though 👍
NGK plugs are just fine.
Your off idle acceleration issue is due to the 009 distributer you're using. I'd venture to say it's not 100% set correctly as well. It could also account for lack of max rpm/speed but I'd look at possible throttle cable slack.
2. You need to get a vacuum advance distributor. 034 SVDA
3. Your fuel filter is mounted in a dangerous location. It should never be mounted after the fuel pump. It needs to be moved outside the engine bay.
4. Why is there a ceramic resistor beside the coil? If it's old school coil it needs to be mounted upright. Best solution is a newer style 3 ohm coil which eliminates the need of a ceramic resistor and it can be mounted upside down.
What bosch plug did you use buddy?
79026, wr8ac+
With the resistive plug, does that hold a longer duration spark?
what plug number is that
79026 wr8ca+
So I watched this and was a bit skeptical, but I changed out my nkg plugs that was in this bug when I got it , and while I couldn’t get Bosh plugs in stock I did try some auto lite copper plugs and it did make a huge difference on it . 13.00 dollars later and my life could have been out driving this thing in 60 degrees instead of 42 degrees, mine is a beach buggy not heat lol
Good video…thanks for the tip
I have had better luck with NGK’s verses the new Bosch over the years🤷♂️
Subscribed and liked :)
NGK
No Good Kid
Although I did use them in my Yamaha 350 R5.
I just changed the plugs on a 73 but couldn't find the Bosch ones. they are made in the Ukraine, I think. the ngk worked ok for me but I prefer the Bosch ones
I'm using NGK rn. No problems
Never had a problem with ngk
Some people swear by NGKs but I haven’t had good results with them. Bosch is good and Harley Davidson branded Champions have worked for me.
I have 69 beetle with no spark. New correct coil and electronic distributor.
Ok,I noticed that Champion doesn't work with it..I don't use champions in anything other than a lawnmower, they work there
not questioning your knowledge or experience at all, but without explaining why the plugs you removed weren't suitable for this particular engine, no one is the wiser. If the manufacturer specifies a certain type of plug, it is because it will have a specific thread length, pitch and diameter (determined by which cylinder heads you have fitted,) a specific electrode length (most applicable to the design of the combustion chamber in the head), a specific heat range (based on the normal operating temperature range of the engine and prescribed octane rating) and if it's a resistor type plug, a specific resistance (in conjunction with HT leads & caps, to reduce RF and provide optimim spark, depending on the ignition coil fitted. To say that VW aicooled beetles don't run properly on NGKs is nonsense. If everything was bone stock and made to OEM specifications, then perhaps the german made Bosch plug originally fitted are marginally better than another brand, but as you said, this is a relatively new motor, probably has a different ignition coil, leads, caps, points etc, all of which will differ from OEM specifications and create a different set of requirements....besides which, NGKs have a rolled thread form,as opposed to a 'cut thread' which lessens the chances of wearing the threading in the aluminium heads....hence why most engine builders would reccommend the right NGK plug, over and above a Bosch or other brand. I gave up on bosch plugs (made in India) when three out of four new plugs were bad from new...if I'm buying plugs, it shouldn't be a lottery. It's more a case of undertsanding which plug is most suited to your particular set up, hotter, colder, projected, resisted etc etc....it's not so much to do with the brand, in my opinion
And judging from the end of that plug he removed... a lesson on how to read what it's telling and understand how to properly tune he may not dismiss ngk for bosch. Eh...it's his video
I find NGK doesn't work good in any older Air cooled carburetored motor especially two stroke. In my experience they don't last very long if you do use them.
Good heavens. Get the fuel filter out of there and behind the firewall (and use a metal one). Spark plugs won’t be the problem when the car burns to the ground.
Ngks are fine. If it's points run a non resistor copper core plug with copper plug wires. If you have electronic ignition run a resistor plug with carbon core wires. It's not the brand. It's the plug type.
Coil cap plugs wires always bosch.
The resistor is built into the plug wire bake light connector so now you have 2 resistors . This guy knows nothing . I use ngk in all 8 of my collector cars
Odd , I've had the exact Opposite results ??? Seriously, what ? One is a mystery. Respectfully. That's weird. ?.
Nice to see a guy who knows what their doing.
Love the bug! I owned a '69 a lifetime ago. Big mistake to sell it.....
BS!!! 3 things maestro! 1) These engines need to warm up properly before they loose the hesitation. 2) You have it idling way too low so you'll have overheating issues when idling @ lights. 3) You didn't show the plug colours so, no one can see how well carb is tuned. Great ;)
My buddy is constantly trying to get me to use NGKs while at the same time commenting on how nice my VWs sounds . . I use Bosch!!!!
I use only Bosch plugs In my 1952 split window zwitter beetle. I was told that your bug was born in Germany keep all parts German !
Thats like saying in a ford, you need ford plugs, dodge you need mopar , bunch of bolony, just use a good parts man
Do you really think that changing brands of spark plug was the problem? I noticed you didn't go out of your way to show the old plugs that came out, you just blamed the brand of the plug. I could see both of the plug you pulled out was totally black from the engine running too rich which will foul out the plugs no matter what brand they are. If you don't lean out the fuel mix then your new Bosch plugs will be in the same shape as "the other brand". A fair test to see is as you say the NGK won't run in a VW then you should put in a new set of NGKs on camera & show the world how bad it runs then put your new Bosch in & show the difference. And while we're @ it, gassing on the engine is not the way to show how smooth an engine runs. Thanks for asking!
Anyone can get a bug running. My 6v can run on any plugs.
I wouldn’t have a job if that was the case.
SUBSCRIBING!!
You should learn the science of a spark plug, I agree with the other fellow to get a good parts man. Has nothing to do with make. I use ngk and my engine runs perfect
Volkswagen doesn't like resistors what are the brown things at the end of the ignition wire where it terminates at the spark plug, the little brown thing is called a resistor 150 across-the-board sounds like somebody flight cut the head 150 is a short-lived Volkswagen motor that leaks oil
keep beetles german i always use bosch you wont beat them
Sorry, but you tell barely nonsens!
Bosch all the way!
You ahve not proven anything,, if you let the engine warm up first,, almost any spark plug will work great , you did not prove any TECHNICAL issues
Brutal