Done with that in 2018. Both sides, by the front wheels, large hole on the floor, velding corrosion on the roof, painting... It's just start to rust and in 6 or 8 months rust just "ate" these parts. And these parts of the car are big. Hole job last about 2 weeks, but car waited 4 weeks and costs 700 €. Today, after 6 years, corrosion is less but present. Thanks for the great video. It's a realistic illustration what we Fabia Mk1 owners confront. 😊
Thanks for the usual great content. You extended the life of my son's 02 Fabia on more than one occasion. Sad to say we finally took it down the scrapyard. Anyway thanks again.🙂
@@HatBoyHarvey It was the head gasket but it was getting tatty and unreliable. He's got a toyota auris now. I reckon you ought to get one so I can watch your channel and pick your brains!!😉
@@bassmana2z686 very similar story as with my Fabia. Head gasket failed and that alone unfortunately totaled the car. Add clockspring (it failed second time in 3 years, so aftermarket clocksprings are probably more miss than hit), rust like in this video, cracked washer reservoir… The Fabie served me very well. Great reliable car, but it’s time to move on. Looking to some Toyota as well, because I want my next car to be at least as reliable as was my Fabia.
@@EvzenEmanuel my son wanted something as close to the 1.4 petrol Fabia as possible but the newer ones tend to be smaller cc/3 cylinders/turbo and quite expensive. We went for the 1.6 Auris petrol, 4 cylinders/no turbo. Reliability...only time will tell. Good luck with your search.🙂
What a coincidence, you uploaded this in the same hour that I was in the garage fixing rust on my 05 Fabia Combi! Have watched a lot of your videos during my ownership of this car and they are worth their megabytes in gold many times. But this one was a bit different, could not put my finger on it at first, then i got it: it's filmed on a sunny day! 😄
Great vid, sills are a bit crusty on my Fabia estate, luckily not rotten though so planning on stripping them back to clean bare metal and coat them with 2k epoxy primer, then repainting Also will be doing the same with the spare wheel well as I've had to weld that already The rest of the body is pretty good though. It's also worth checking behind the rear arch liners as the rust can take place in there too, at least on the estates it does
Hammerite is complete junk these days, there are much better coatings out there. Be careful with what you put on as a base as your topcoat in the car colour may react with it and bubble up. Ask me how i know lol.
Thanks, it's not finished yet and looks a bit rough, but I hope to move on to the topcoat soon. Glad you enjoyed and support fellow Skoda enthusiasts :-)
I think whatever you do, do it when there is no rust. So Skoda recognise the need to seal from new before rust gets a hold. When you already have it all you can do is cut out, renew, treat, protect as much as you can or want to go, both outside and inside the panels. Remember the ultimate with rusty Classics is a complete body strip, acid dip and some kind of zinc treatment, re-paint and inner waxing etc. Depends on your wallet and how much and long you want to hold onto your car. :-)
Love your videos man greetings from Bulgaria 🇧🇬 i have one question i have a tiny hole under sill at the same place (driver's side) it's there a alternative to welding a metal i see in the internet there is a metal glue can i glue a piece of metal over it 😅 i really need some alternative nor i have welding machine or welding experience 🥽 p.s 24y old lad who tries to save his Fabia cuz he loves it haha again i appreciate you i learn a lot from you
It will depend on the specific rules in your country. The road worthiness test or annual technical review. If a sill is deemed a structural part on chassis body as in UK with MOT then only metal repairs must be used which would include how the extra metal repair is fixed. I don't think glue glue would be acceptable as it would not form an integral part of the metal. Remember there are some designed holes in the sill there anyway with rubber grommets in so If the hole is very small it is unlikely to have much impact on the overall structural strength, but I can't say that you could just fill it with fibreglass as that is not allowed, but many do. The MOT technician will know this is done a lot and can spot a bad repair and it would be up to him to say if it would pass or not.
Good job but why are you welding with a such long wire sticking out? Because the metal is too thin? I think irt doest get enough shielding gas that way
Thanks, woops didn't disconnect the battery when doing the left side - forgot :-/ hope it's ok. I've never disconnected a ECU for welding, is that really necessary? The Mig earth lead was connected close to welding so shouldn't be a problem, any spikes should travel the easiest path to earth. .
@@HatBoyHarvey I already worked in an fire truck manufacturer and I remember that they always disconnected the battery and ECU before welding processes. But I never studied this matter because I never needed it.
Looking at this, it occurs to me that vehicle owners should, for example, take off this plastic protection every 3 years and clean that part to prevent rust. I understand that this Skoda is quite old, but now it's a shame to sell it, pd-tdi engines are real marathoners, they will never make such good ones again. The weather in the UK also has an effect, the roads are rainy and wet, the only thing I don't know is how much they throw salt on the roads in the winter, and that has its own bad effect for sure. If you park it in garage,that protects. Another good vid, regards.
I agree, checking and cleaning out this area at the front arch end of the will behind the plastic is a must do! If you want to save doing this kind of difficult welding job. Better to prevent rather than repair. The PD engine is better than the common rail IMHO and agree these do last a long time. Am I selling??? Not sure I've ever said that. :-)
Yep, me too! They coated the body in zinc not galvanized as far as I know which is a different process and much better as many a farm gate can testify. Early Fabias are 20-25 years old now so we need to look after them :-)
@HatBoyHarvey i remember the original Fabia brochure from the year 2000 and the description of its fully galvanised bodywork. Damp, salt and other debris collecting behind the plastic wheel arch liners, appears to be the main problem
@@julianroberts5407 interesting I'll have to look into that galvanizing process to see what they actually did. Shame they have started to rust now and my 30 yr+ metal gate hasn't :-/
Done with that in 2018. Both sides, by the front wheels, large hole on the floor, velding corrosion on the roof, painting... It's just start to rust and in 6 or 8 months rust just "ate" these parts. And these parts of the car are big. Hole job last about 2 weeks, but car waited 4 weeks and costs 700 €.
Today, after 6 years, corrosion is less but present.
Thanks for the great video. It's a realistic illustration what we Fabia Mk1 owners confront. 😊
Thanks mate, seems that you had it worse than me. Glad you kept the fabi alive :-)
Thanks for the usual great content. You extended the life of my son's 02 Fabia on more than one occasion. Sad to say we finally took it down the scrapyard. Anyway thanks again.🙂
Sorry to hear that, what was it that made you decide to scrap it in the end?
@@HatBoyHarvey It was the head gasket but it was getting tatty and unreliable. He's got a toyota auris now. I reckon you ought to get one so I can watch your channel and pick your brains!!😉
@@bassmana2z686 very similar story as with my Fabia. Head gasket failed and that alone unfortunately totaled the car. Add clockspring (it failed second time in 3 years, so aftermarket clocksprings are probably more miss than hit), rust like in this video, cracked washer reservoir… The Fabie served me very well. Great reliable car, but it’s time to move on. Looking to some Toyota as well, because I want my next car to be at least as reliable as was my Fabia.
@@EvzenEmanuel my son wanted something as close to the 1.4 petrol Fabia as possible but the newer ones tend to be smaller cc/3 cylinders/turbo and quite expensive. We went for the 1.6 Auris petrol, 4 cylinders/no turbo. Reliability...only time will tell. Good luck with your search.🙂
What a coincidence, you uploaded this in the same hour that I was in the garage fixing rust on my 05 Fabia Combi! Have watched a lot of your videos during my ownership of this car and they are worth their megabytes in gold many times. But this one was a bit different, could not put my finger on it at first, then i got it: it's filmed on a sunny day! 😄
Yep, on those rare English occasions when it does sunshine. Mind you I did wait till it was to do such a job :-)
Wtf. I'm fixing my Fabia combi 2005 too 😅😅😅
@@FernandoLopez-tl3km seems like all the planets have aligned themselves for our fabias' :-)
Since you are welding outside I recommend spraying the backside of the patchpanels with zinc. Prevents rusting.
Good advice. I intend to coat the inside and anything containing zinc would be a best solution agreed :-)
Great vid, sills are a bit crusty on my Fabia estate, luckily not rotten though so planning on stripping them back to clean bare metal and coat them with 2k epoxy primer, then repainting
Also will be doing the same with the spare wheel well as I've had to weld that already
The rest of the body is pretty good though.
It's also worth checking behind the rear arch liners as the rust can take place in there too, at least on the estates it does
Glad your doing the work now rather than later when it could be a lot worse. Best of luck :-)
That black hammerite is an excellent anti-rust paint. Any Fabia owners, whose sills are still solid, would be advised to treat them with it
Too right :-)
Hammerite is complete junk these days, there are much better coatings out there. Be careful with what you put on as a base as your topcoat in the car colour may react with it and bubble up. Ask me how i know lol.
Great content, I really enjoyed watching the progress of this repair.
Being a fellow Škodian, I always like to see another Škoda saved❤.
Thanks, it's not finished yet and looks a bit rough, but I hope to move on to the topcoat soon. Glad you enjoyed and support fellow Skoda enthusiasts :-)
I am not the only one Fabia likers😂 😅
Mr.Perfect 😁 i bought the same Auto Seal can i use it on the entire sills underneath for protection instead stone chip
Exactly, first coats for zinc protection then over-sealant for stone chip penetration protection - perfect in my book (well near enough) :-)
Love watching these as I have a MK1 Fabia myself. Is it ever worth rust sealing the underbody ?
I think whatever you do, do it when there is no rust. So Skoda recognise the need to seal from new before rust gets a hold. When you already have it all you can do is cut out, renew, treat, protect as much as you can or want to go, both outside and inside the panels. Remember the ultimate with rusty Classics is a complete body strip, acid dip and some kind of zinc treatment, re-paint and inner waxing etc. Depends on your wallet and how much and long you want to hold onto your car. :-)
These repairs are more than good enough for a Skoda, Is the Hitbox still going well?
Thanks, I thought so too, it's no Ferrari! I haven't used the hit box since this last repair, but do have a garden gate to weld soon so will see :-)
Great video, as always. Shout out to your aunty Mildred.
Thanks, Mildred's away on religious retreat at the moment, but I'll let her know she has more admiration from another fan upon her return :-)
Love your videos man greetings from Bulgaria 🇧🇬 i have one question i have a tiny hole under sill at the same place (driver's side) it's there a alternative to welding a metal i see in the internet there is a metal glue can i glue a piece of metal over it 😅 i really need some alternative nor i have welding machine or welding experience 🥽 p.s 24y old lad who tries to save his Fabia cuz he loves it haha again i appreciate you i learn a lot from you
It will depend on the specific rules in your country. The road worthiness test or annual technical review. If a sill is deemed a structural part on chassis body as in UK with MOT then only metal repairs must be used which would include how the extra metal repair is fixed. I don't think glue glue would be acceptable as it would not form an integral part of the metal. Remember there are some designed holes in the sill there anyway with rubber grommets in so If the hole is very small it is unlikely to have much impact on the overall structural strength, but I can't say that you could just fill it with fibreglass as that is not allowed, but many do. The MOT technician will know this is done a lot and can spot a bad repair and it would be up to him to say if it would pass or not.
Good job but why are you welding with a such long wire sticking out? Because the metal is too thin? I think irt doest get enough shielding gas that way
No gas Mig, so it's not that important. Basically this type of Mig welding is a bit like stick welding with more control for thin sheets :)
Great job, mate!
Thanks :-)
Awesome! Keep that wing. Did you disconnected the ECU and battery for the welding process?
Thanks, woops didn't disconnect the battery when doing the left side - forgot :-/ hope it's ok. I've never disconnected a ECU for welding, is that really necessary? The Mig earth lead was connected close to welding so shouldn't be a problem, any spikes should travel the easiest path to earth. .
@@HatBoyHarvey I already worked in an fire truck manufacturer and I remember that they always disconnected the battery and ECU before welding processes. But I never studied this matter because I never needed it.
Looking at this, it occurs to me that vehicle owners should, for example, take off this plastic protection every 3 years and clean that part to prevent rust. I understand that this Skoda is quite old, but now it's a shame to sell it, pd-tdi engines are real marathoners, they will never make such good ones again. The weather in the UK also has an effect, the roads are rainy and wet, the only thing I don't know is how much they throw salt on the roads in the winter, and that has its own bad effect for sure. If you park it in garage,that protects. Another good vid, regards.
I agree, checking and cleaning out this area at the front arch end of the will behind the plastic is a must do! If you want to save doing this kind of difficult welding job. Better to prevent rather than repair. The PD engine is better than the common rail IMHO and agree these do last a long time. Am I selling??? Not sure I've ever said that. :-)
Ye bunny dunt look to happy (good job) 😅😅
He isn't, but I will soon put that right :-)
It's quite a coincidence that I started fixing the same problem on the same day
It's the good weather, brings out the renovator in us :-)
I thought the Fabia was meant to be Galvanised and i thought that Galvanised steel is extremely rust resistant
Yep, me too! They coated the body in zinc not galvanized as far as I know which is a different process and much better as many a farm gate can testify. Early Fabias are 20-25 years old now so we need to look after them :-)
@HatBoyHarvey i remember the original Fabia brochure from the year 2000 and the description of its fully galvanised bodywork. Damp, salt and other debris collecting behind the plastic wheel arch liners, appears to be the main problem
@@julianroberts5407 interesting I'll have to look into that galvanizing process to see what they actually did. Shame they have started to rust now and my 30 yr+ metal gate hasn't :-/
@@HatBoyHarvey 👍
Still got the original brochure for the Fabia, says it's galvanised.
Awesome job ! We have had also repaired them Part-1 th-cam.com/video/2DdQHbBydrs/w-d-xo.html and Part-2 th-cam.com/video/CjlNffN7h6I/w-d-xo.html
Good work, should hold a a bit longer with that done :-)