IFSC World Cup Wujiang 2019 || Boulder finals

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  • เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 พ.ค. 2019
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ความคิดเห็น • 242

  • @fabiandoliana9433
    @fabiandoliana9433 5 ปีที่แล้ว +464

    W1 29:56
    W2 48:35
    W3 1:14:00
    W4 1:31:30
    M1 1:58:29
    M2 2:23:26
    M3 2:46:43
    M4 3:11:40

  • @GB-yp4ff
    @GB-yp4ff 5 ปีที่แล้ว +208

    Janja Garnbret is just on a different level, the way she crushed that last boulder like it was a warm-up problem, while the others struggled with beta - crazy stuff!

    • @DesmondRayBeltrop
      @DesmondRayBeltrop 5 ปีที่แล้ว +47

      That's basically every event this year. They should let her complete in the men's comp. I'm pretty sure she could hold her own there.

    • @mathjoker
      @mathjoker 5 ปีที่แล้ว +7

      Where was she last year? She's so far ahead of everyone else that I'd have thought she'd have won a bunch last year as well. It seems like she's a shoe-in for Olympic gold, even if she comes in 8th in speed (because her lead climbing is pretty great too). So much hype about Adam but while he is certainly very good he's not on another level like Janja is. The hype must be from his outdoor climbing.

    • @DesmondRayBeltrop
      @DesmondRayBeltrop 5 ปีที่แล้ว +6

      @@mathjoker She came in #1 or #2 in every bouldering world cup comp last year and the year before, and was top 3 in every lead world cup over the same period of time.
      en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Janja_Garnbret_in_the_Climbing_World_Cup

    • @Gytax0
      @Gytax0 5 ปีที่แล้ว +6

      @@mathjoker Adam is not winning every world cup because there are a ton of other great male climbers. The top athletes are at a similar level - every podium is different. For women, it's pretty much always gold for Janja, silver for Akiyo and then come the rest.

    • @DesmondRayBeltrop
      @DesmondRayBeltrop 5 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@Gytax0 To be fair, he was sick AF after the Moscow comp for a few weeks which is why he missed the last one.

  • @eadelindizon9514
    @eadelindizon9514 5 ปีที่แล้ว +52

    kai harada flashing that route that nobody else could top. dayumm

    • @crescentfuze
      @crescentfuze 5 ปีที่แล้ว +3

      Like Jernej in Moscow on M4 and Anze last cup.

    • @dailynotinteresting4325
      @dailynotinteresting4325 5 ปีที่แล้ว +6

      Really an amazing effort to keep the race for first going. Personally, I don't think the controversial top was a top (didn't seem to have control), but fortunately it didn't impact the rankings one way or another, just kept some amount of tension to the fourth boulder.

  • @NageIfar
    @NageIfar 5 ปีที่แล้ว +65

    SPOILER WOMENS FINALS
    Akiyo hugging/congratulating Ai was so precious. First finals and already a medal, huge props

  • @samcoren8437
    @samcoren8437 5 ปีที่แล้ว +92

    1:54:49 great interview questions...
    ‘Hey what’s it like to win’ , ‘it rained last time’, ‘ok see ya’

    • @OIFenrirOI
      @OIFenrirOI 5 ปีที่แล้ว +3

      And this is his only job, right? :D Together with the robotic voice it gave me a good laugh^^

    • @finnbruton7274
      @finnbruton7274 5 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      S C lol I was thinking the exact same 😂

  • @bearyai216
    @bearyai216 5 ปีที่แล้ว +75

    Miho is back ❤️

  • @ItzSkillful
    @ItzSkillful 5 ปีที่แล้ว +88

    Happy to see Tomoa final snag gold. Seems a lot of people are on the Ondra bandwagon (understandable, whats not to love), but Tomoa's been exceptionally consistent this season. 2 silvers and a gold - a podium on every event he's competed at!
    No surprise Janja won again. Seems like if its possible for other competitors to top a boulder, Janja will undoubtable do it as well... Truly Amazing.

  • @jacobpenner1923
    @jacobpenner1923 5 ปีที่แล้ว +27

    Janja is truly on another level, flashed a powerful boulder (W2) that no one else could even top 😳 If setters made all of the boulder problems even harder in the finals we would see just how far ahead she really is. But I get that seeing everyone else struggle and fail at all of the boulders wouldn't be very entertaining.

  • @1234tetsutetsu
    @1234tetsutetsu 5 ปีที่แล้ว +65

    Congrats to Ai for her first podium.

  • @TheRagballer
    @TheRagballer 5 ปีที่แล้ว +65

    Always hope Kyra does well, but she's a great commentator

  • @horrorfan1122
    @horrorfan1122 4 ปีที่แล้ว +31

    Kyra Condie was a fantastic commentator, I hope we get to hear more from her.

  • @Couldnotexplain
    @Couldnotexplain 4 ปีที่แล้ว +17

    DJ: "I know what these competitors want to hear. Every AC/DC song ever."

  • @konradtheman
    @konradtheman 5 ปีที่แล้ว +21

    1:07:59 "Yeah, I have to say the DJ has been one of the best ones that we've had on the IFSC. We've had ACDC, Creedence Clearwater, but this is one of his first own goals." - Charlie Boscoe being savage

  • @tibuwi7059
    @tibuwi7059 5 ปีที่แล้ว +30

    Janja just flew up the last boulder o.O

  • @epincion
    @epincion 5 ปีที่แล้ว +23

    Excellent coverage, thanks to all the commentators.

  • @arnaudb1653
    @arnaudb1653 5 ปีที่แล้ว +224

    1:51:38 RIP headphone users

    • @moppelfrosch5727
      @moppelfrosch5727 5 ปีที่แล้ว +24

      I died without headphones

    • @viniciuscollaco
      @viniciuscollaco 5 ปีที่แล้ว +16

      ty for the comment, you save my ears

    • @manugomezs
      @manugomezs 5 ปีที่แล้ว +6

      I knew I’d find this comment haha RIP

    • @RyanHillGaming
      @RyanHillGaming 4 ปีที่แล้ว +3

      this part actually scared me so badly

  • @asdfasdfsd
    @asdfasdfsd 5 ปีที่แล้ว +20

    My parents were watching this at the scene. This event is amazing and thrilling!

    • @user-fo5dl6cf7r
      @user-fo5dl6cf7r ปีที่แล้ว

      really?

    • @asdfasdfsd
      @asdfasdfsd ปีที่แล้ว

      @@user-fo5dl6cf7r It held in Suzhou of China, We live here and fortunately very close to the event venue. It just takes about 30 minutes to ride there.

    • @user-fo5dl6cf7r
      @user-fo5dl6cf7r ปีที่แล้ว

      @@asdfasdfsd lol I was just joking , I believe you

  • @kamron_thurmond
    @kamron_thurmond 5 ปีที่แล้ว +16

    Janja and Akiyo are phenomenal female climbers.

    • @cyrillemiller8798
      @cyrillemiller8798 5 ปีที่แล้ว +8

      Kamron Thurmond **phenomenal climbers

    • @kamron_thurmond
      @kamron_thurmond 5 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@cyrillemiller8798 Changing that sort of ruins what I was going for there, because if said outloud "female" and "phenomenal" have very similar sounding beginning parts of the words and kind of rhyme, but sure go all P.C. on me.

    • @RJirl
      @RJirl 5 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@kamron_thurmond I enjoyed your word play and I always assume the best in people. you be you. ignore the rabble

  • @mrjm6752
    @mrjm6752 5 ปีที่แล้ว +7

    Been bouldering every week for a year. Just found these video on youtube ... Thanks for the endless hour of fun that are ahead of me !

  • @tonyluvbalony6837
    @tonyluvbalony6837 3 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    I would like to say a “every Tamoa Narasaki fistbump compilation” on this channel

  • @jonnes__4657
    @jonnes__4657 5 ปีที่แล้ว +7

    Last boulder for Janja... awsome !!!
    She is so easily dominating her competitors...
    .

  • @jeremiahd2209
    @jeremiahd2209 5 ปีที่แล้ว +14

    We need to gofundme a trip to Flatanger for Janja. Who's with me?

    • @lmnts556
      @lmnts556 5 ปีที่แล้ว +3

      Norway is my home, I welcome her!

  • @polaide8036
    @polaide8036 ปีที่แล้ว +8

    Janja pushing domination to a new level.
    Big thanks to Kyra for co-commenting. It's great to have her insight.

  • @danielkrenn6717
    @danielkrenn6717 5 ปีที่แล้ว +23

    Great event as always - except some music choices in the women finals (1:14:53 & 1:24:28) I found quite an embarrassment!

    • @CCMrJones
      @CCMrJones 5 ปีที่แล้ว +4

      lol youre right :D

    • @frikinfrogs
      @frikinfrogs 5 ปีที่แล้ว +3

      Ah so cringe 😣

    • @miat789
      @miat789 4 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      What were the songs ?

  • @BonTravellerFreedom
    @BonTravellerFreedom 5 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    ขอบคุณครับ ฉันชอบดูมาก

  • @damluar
    @damluar 5 ปีที่แล้ว +88

    Camera work is so horrible, someone call Eric Karlsson please!

    • @davidvenus8783
      @davidvenus8783 5 ปีที่แล้ว +3

      waaay better than it used to be imo

    • @yolyperu4695
      @yolyperu4695 5 ปีที่แล้ว +2

      The curtains 🙈

    • @vesuveking3465
      @vesuveking3465 5 ปีที่แล้ว +3

      Who da fook is Eric Karlsson

    • @Lilianna731
      @Lilianna731 5 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@vesuveking3465 Eric Karlsson is a climber who has a very popular youtube channel :)

  • @crescentfuze
    @crescentfuze 5 ปีที่แล้ว +4

    3:17:44 Really cool movement and synced with the music!

  • @NickRoman
    @NickRoman 3 ปีที่แล้ว +3

    If Miho Nonaka had not pulled herself up on that first boulder, I think she would have had it, but pulling up added a little extra force and that caused the slip. Still, obviously the second method was more secure anyway.

  • @jonnes__4657
    @jonnes__4657 5 ปีที่แล้ว +3

    Jakob Schubert against the japanese armada, congratulations on bronze!
    .

  • @Atom.Storm.
    @Atom.Storm. 5 ปีที่แล้ว +30

    I'm sitting here on torn ligaments from a 4b and these guys are dyno'ing everest

    • @ShakespeareanBroncobuster
      @ShakespeareanBroncobuster 5 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Atom Storm is that the equivalent of a V0? I don’t know the Font scale

    • @Jesusfsmums
      @Jesusfsmums 4 ปีที่แล้ว

      Daniel Horton v1

    • @fuzz6263
      @fuzz6263 4 ปีที่แล้ว

      European or British 4b?

  • @NickRoman
    @NickRoman 3 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    wow, Akiyo Noguichi just killed that first boulder. Murdered it. lol

  • @JMnyJohns
    @JMnyJohns 2 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    Janja W4 in 14 seconds. Aye Caramba!

  • @clee2865
    @clee2865 5 ปีที่แล้ว +4

    Janja is from outta space👽👽👽

  • @siavash119
    @siavash119 5 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    You'd think the judges would wait for after the round to consider the appeal. Doing so would give the contestants more equal break time. They waited to update the scoreboard...

  • @laurensalkemade7985
    @laurensalkemade7985 5 ปีที่แล้ว +19

    2:21:22 guy leaves grease behind
    2:21:45 kokoro slips
    :P

  • @GabbGangen
    @GabbGangen 5 ปีที่แล้ว +24

    I learned a new word watching this: penultimate! 😆

  • @catweston2101
    @catweston2101 5 ปีที่แล้ว +9

    Great final!! Love actually getting some separation among the women 🥰🥰 who commentated on the female final??

    • @DesmondRayBeltrop
      @DesmondRayBeltrop 5 ปีที่แล้ว +6

      The female commentator was Kyra Condie.

    • @catweston2101
      @catweston2101 5 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@DesmondRayBeltrop thanks!

    • @jcrotty18
      @jcrotty18 5 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      100% agree. The sets were to soft again for the Women second event running. Basically, a flashing contest.

    • @LucianaFujii
      @LucianaFujii 5 ปีที่แล้ว +5

      Agree! Would have been even better if the zone from w2 was the next one.

    • @catweston2101
      @catweston2101 5 ปีที่แล้ว +2

      @@LucianaFujii for sure - Akiyo climbed much further yet got nothing for it!

  • @wibby2143
    @wibby2143 5 ปีที่แล้ว +5

    fire that dj

  • @JoelSchnall
    @JoelSchnall 5 ปีที่แล้ว +6

    Out of curiosity, do competitors have to turn in their cell phones before heading into isolation? Could they potentially watch their competition on this live stream?

    • @jcrotty18
      @jcrotty18 5 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      yes

    • @awdrifter3394
      @awdrifter3394 4 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      TH-cam is blocked in China.

    • @carina-nonbinary
      @carina-nonbinary 4 หลายเดือนก่อน

      ​@@awdrifter3394 there's ways around it and people use them

  • @morphling337
    @morphling337 5 ปีที่แล้ว +7

    I find this scoring system absurd when Akiyo's performance 101:00 gets scored the same as the two women that went before her. It should be points for EACH hold that you pass/control, because there is a world of difference there that isn't being quantified or captured in the results. It's so so stupid.

  • @MattPellegrini91
    @MattPellegrini91 5 ปีที่แล้ว +18

    Women start 0:30:00
    Men start 1:58:25

  • @almendras7426
    @almendras7426 5 ปีที่แล้ว +44

    Nerf Janja please.

    • @its_a_ducky3467
      @its_a_ducky3467 5 ปีที่แล้ว +5

      I think she used fly-hacks to get to the top of the last boulder

  • @furyofbongos
    @furyofbongos 5 ปีที่แล้ว +4

    The close-up shots are useless if we don't get to see the lunge towards the hold. This happens all the time with these shoots, please show all the hold grabs. Otherwise what are we watching other than just a closeup of the face and elbows?

    • @epincion
      @epincion 5 ปีที่แล้ว +3

      The problem is that IFSC are not responsible for the camerawork - that's done by a Chinese TV network.

    • @furyofbongos
      @furyofbongos 5 ปีที่แล้ว +2

      @@epincion That makes sense, however, I've seen the exact same problem on other events on this channel in other countries.

    • @epincion
      @epincion 5 ปีที่แล้ว +2

      Its actually gotten a lot better over the years , I remember when it was filmed with a potato.

  • @miat789
    @miat789 4 ปีที่แล้ว

    Im new to all of this but why is it that the obstacles are not automatically scrubbed in between competitors ?

  • @rachelnanshija251
    @rachelnanshija251 5 ปีที่แล้ว

    Anyone else unable to watch past about 2:47:00? Whole video loaded fine until that point, now it wont load at all.

  • @user-xr9zm3zr8v
    @user-xr9zm3zr8v 5 ปีที่แล้ว +6

    bouldering Japan cup

  • @athousandlives7231
    @athousandlives7231 5 ปีที่แล้ว +11

    2:41:21 Glitch in the Matrix 🤣

  • @florianmarks2876
    @florianmarks2876 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    imagine you are one of the female competitors and you just struggled hard on w4 and then janja comes out and makes it look like the warm up wall

  • @jasper374
    @jasper374 5 ปีที่แล้ว +3

    Do people get to try the boulders after the event?

    • @jasper374
      @jasper374 5 ปีที่แล้ว +8

      So basically touching the first hold

  • @DesmondRayBeltrop
    @DesmondRayBeltrop 5 ปีที่แล้ว +6

    Fantastic setting for the men, all problems topped but no 4/4 by anyone.

    • @jcrotty18
      @jcrotty18 5 ปีที่แล้ว +2

      yes, agree. however, again an advantage to the short climbs per the usual

    • @yannlisicki790
      @yannlisicki790 5 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@jcrotty18 Totally agree but unfortunately there is no good solution for this besides splitting into height categories. Kinda like weight categories in boxing.

    • @jcrotty18
      @jcrotty18 5 ปีที่แล้ว +3

      @@yannlisicki790 It seems there is still a general unwritten rule in play that "thou shall not set anything the shortest climber can not reasonably have a chance at." On the contrary setters seemingly have no issue with creating bunchy problems with high feet that only the smaller climbers excel at. Look at finals M1 for example. At first glance it looked like a taller climber would have a decent chance at the crux top, but with the right heel beta it was too high for taller climbers. Tomoa solved it brilliantly with that high heel and a great stab to the top hold. My favorite example was semis M1 vs M4. It was obvious that taller climbers hand the advantage on M1 as it was a fairly long move to the top. However, it was flashed by two climbers; Jan Hojer and Kai Harada. The tallest and shortest climbers respectively! On semis M4 not one tall climber in the field gained the top; Ondra, Hojer, Kruder, etc. Yet the smaller climbers such as Harada, Tomoa, etc. had not issue with the very bunched up moves from the zone to the top. My personal take is there is a built in bias against tall climbers and a general lack of understanding and thought on how to set routes that are fair regardless of size.

  • @pavelb2751
    @pavelb2751 5 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    anyone know the song at 3:16:50 Jan Hojer doing M4?

  • @omershossberger5528
    @omershossberger5528 5 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    Does Miho wear unreleased tenaya shoes or she just painted in red her oasi?

    • @reccy231
      @reccy231 5 ปีที่แล้ว

      Those look like the new 5.10 Aleons

  • @beimberni6952
    @beimberni6952 5 ปีที่แล้ว +3

    Good Dj and nice Problems =)

  • @omershossberger5528
    @omershossberger5528 5 ปีที่แล้ว +12

    Why during the male final the dj didn't play songs like "you ____ thing" (1:14:53) or "___ bomb" (1:24:28)?

    • @joedawson8943
      @joedawson8943 5 ปีที่แล้ว

      Cause theyre absolute bangers

  • @cyrushyk
    @cyrushyk 5 ปีที่แล้ว +4

    That cameraman needs to stop taking close-up shot of face and cuting off the rest of the climber!

    • @RJirl
      @RJirl 5 ปีที่แล้ว

      they were doing what they were told, and it could have been switched to other cameras to "fix" it, but I agree with you. Their job should have been - Look at that climber until you cant anymore, then stay still. Next camera on the next climber, same rules. one camera on a long away shot to fill in the gap. Mickey Mouse job for sure.

    • @RJirl
      @RJirl 5 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Oh you mean when the climber is on the wall. YES! super annoying not being able to see the foot work especially.

  • @pkampsmugo
    @pkampsmugo 5 ปีที่แล้ว +3

    Did you guys ever asked Jan Hojer to be co-commentator?

    • @epincion
      @epincion 5 ปีที่แล้ว +8

      Jan has been a commentator in the past. The best in my opinion was Alex Megos, he was a riot.

    • @philipppuchner1115
      @philipppuchner1115 5 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@epincion jup, Megos is a funny dude (not just the looks of his legs) :))

  • @wattsyvfx
    @wattsyvfx 4 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    "penultimate" means "second to last" not "last" or "highest".....

  • @Fogmeister
    @Fogmeister 5 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Who is the man commentating?

  • @Neerav3984
    @Neerav3984 5 ปีที่แล้ว +5

    Feels like Janja Garnbret s alien :)

    • @RJirl
      @RJirl 5 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      She has suction cups for hands

  • @olivergilmartin
    @olivergilmartin 5 ปีที่แล้ว +5

    ***SPOILER ALERT***
    HOLY CRAP Janja is a different species. 😮😮😮

  • @enderlain385
    @enderlain385 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Shoulder strength and perfect height to weight ratio. Janja probably wouldn't be beaten in boulders. Setters should probably go for shorter and more crimpy problems to stop her

  • @scytaletleilax
    @scytaletleilax 5 ปีที่แล้ว +6

    1:51:38 WTF it scared me :(

  • @scytaletleilax
    @scytaletleilax 5 ปีที่แล้ว +5

    3:24:45 WTF how is this possible???

  • @simonshackleton5835
    @simonshackleton5835 4 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    3:33:20 adam ondra back left?

  • @danielhdoro
    @danielhdoro 5 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    I feel bad for Julia Chanourdie. I can only hope this result didn't get her questioning her skills.

  • @TScorpio204
    @TScorpio204 5 ปีที่แล้ว +3

    Is Adam Ondra not competing?

    • @musicman24X
      @musicman24X 5 ปีที่แล้ว +9

      He didn't make it through semis

    • @TScorpio204
      @TScorpio204 5 ปีที่แล้ว +2

      Oh wow, surprising. Thanks

    • @DesmondRayBeltrop
      @DesmondRayBeltrop 5 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      He didn't make the finals.

    • @dr.gernotmayer111
      @dr.gernotmayer111 5 ปีที่แล้ว +4

      He is too big for the short people setting, so its a japanese show...🤣 dont like it...kind of boring...

    • @samanthasemi8398
      @samanthasemi8398 5 ปีที่แล้ว +37

      ​@@dr.gernotmayer111 Except for the fact that Jan Hojer is even taller than Adam Ondra and still made the final. So saying that the routes were set for short people is just not correct. Given the super competitive field one cannot expect Adam to get into every final, there is no shame in that, he is still one of the best (or maybe the best) climber out there. However, blaming the route setters for him not getting into the final is just incorrect in my opinion

  • @cheznikos
    @cheznikos 5 ปีที่แล้ว +5

    Decent comp. Janja too strong though. Wonder if she could make semis in the men's

  • @furyofbongos
    @furyofbongos 5 ปีที่แล้ว +4

    2:59:38 - here is an example of bad camera work. He is moving his feet which is critical yet the camera does not show it at all. This is very frustrating. Please improve the camera work.

    • @jcrotty18
      @jcrotty18 5 ปีที่แล้ว +2

      To be frank this was the best event camera work wise they have ever had in Asia.

    • @nicolapace5089
      @nicolapace5089 5 ปีที่แล้ว

      This year camera work is just frustrating. No event since now had a decent service. Someone needs to teach them how this sport should be filmed.

  • @einfach_noelle
    @einfach_noelle 3 ปีที่แล้ว +3

    13:01 3 Japanese men, 4 Japanese women... count again 😂

  • @peterhammer6915
    @peterhammer6915 5 ปีที่แล้ว +3

    No drama needed today as 4 flashes. In the mens hoping the Japanese not to win and in the womens hoping them to win. Neither did happen :(

    • @Quetzacoatl85
      @Quetzacoatl85 5 ปีที่แล้ว +2

      why would you hope for the japanese not to win? they're always such great competitors

    • @philipppuchner1115
      @philipppuchner1115 5 ปีที่แล้ว

      woman - women! Not womens. There also no childrens, postmens etc. ;)

  • @rhielwager4308
    @rhielwager4308 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    . janja😍😘💪

  • @jaimer.e.mendez9927
    @jaimer.e.mendez9927 5 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    Where is Ondra?

  • @nicolewong3687
    @nicolewong3687 5 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    Who’s the female commentator?

    • @isobel6959
      @isobel6959 5 ปีที่แล้ว +2

      Kyra Condie

    • @ItzSkillful
      @ItzSkillful 5 ปีที่แล้ว +2

      Kyra Condie - Womens US National Team

    • @nicolewong3687
      @nicolewong3687 5 ปีที่แล้ว +2

      @@ItzSkillful oh nice. she's got a great voice

    • @yolyperu4695
      @yolyperu4695 5 ปีที่แล้ว

      She's talking really quick for a not native speaker 🙄

  • @timchristiansen3642
    @timchristiansen3642 5 ปีที่แล้ว

    1:04:10 "i dont wan to give the results away, but the guy who won broke his PB in his last 3 races" witch means who ever make PB in the kvaterfinals and semifinals will win -_-

  • @wojecire
    @wojecire 3 ปีที่แล้ว +4

    someone needs to sit down with these camera people and kindly ask them to make sure 2 hands and 2 feet are in the picture at all times when someone is on the wall.

    • @jk-qe3jj
      @jk-qe3jj ปีที่แล้ว

      No, you don't get it. The cinematic effect is much more important than the viewers seeing what the hell the climber is doing.

  • @sonne5528
    @sonne5528 5 ปีที่แล้ว +4

    Why is Shauna not competing ?

    • @takeitawayerni
      @takeitawayerni 5 ปีที่แล้ว +4

      she's focusing on the olympics atm

  • @kiriappeee
    @kiriappeee 5 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    The DJ's from this leg have been hype. Semi finals deffo rocked harder but dang. They played sex bomb (mixed) too 😂

  • @fluffypuppy92
    @fluffypuppy92 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    2:59:59 I don't think Kai get through the top

  • @eliboninger431
    @eliboninger431 5 ปีที่แล้ว +22

    "its so hard for the routesetters to set for female climbers" just get a female routesetter damn

    • @RJirl
      @RJirl 5 ปีที่แล้ว +3

      she just meant that the routesetters aren't as flexible as the female climbers, so its hard for them to judge what might be possible on a problem

    • @suterde
      @suterde 4 ปีที่แล้ว +2

      Or set route the same way as for men, and we will show you we can do that too

    • @crisppy3691
      @crisppy3691 4 ปีที่แล้ว +3

      @@suterde doubt

    • @MarkCrimper
      @MarkCrimper 4 ปีที่แล้ว +4

      I don't understand why route setters set differently for women. Sure most women may be shorter than men but there are also shorter men that have to do the same problem as taller male climbers. Both still have to be really strong, flexible, coordinated, etc... So many of the same skill sets are shared. Therefore, I don't know why you would set differently for women. Can someone give a good explanation?

    • @huddrez99
      @huddrez99 4 ปีที่แล้ว +3

      @@MarkCrimper Women simply are not as physically strong as men. So boulders have to be "easier" for them.

  • @hansmair6961
    @hansmair6961 4 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Any Doping Controls?

  • @ATLTraveler
    @ATLTraveler 4 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Go adam!!

  • @cimfonica01
    @cimfonica01 4 ปีที่แล้ว +5

    Such a sad era for female climbers. So many strong climbers like Akiyo, Miho and Jessie. All fighting for second and third place...

  • @dante4838
    @dante4838 5 ปีที่แล้ว +6

    Nerf Janja pls

    • @RJirl
      @RJirl 5 ปีที่แล้ว

      maybe next patch

  • @moacarlsson7947
    @moacarlsson7947 4 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    JANJA GARNBRET is the best!!!!
    like if you agre

  • @CGagnon5
    @CGagnon5 5 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    M3 was terrible. Route setters should be ashamed of that problem

  • @philipp-w
    @philipp-w 5 ปีที่แล้ว +10

    Why so many dislikes? 🤔

    • @leopoldomanni6509
      @leopoldomanni6509 5 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      i do me the same question

    • @infectednetwork
      @infectednetwork 5 ปีที่แล้ว +6

      my guess would be because the camera angles suck

    • @Kooksrifles
      @Kooksrifles 5 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      I had to refresh the stream for about 30 times... soooo many interruptions, horrible.

    • @philipp-w
      @philipp-w 5 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@Kooksrifles yeah possible

    • @Solwa54
      @Solwa54 5 ปีที่แล้ว +4

      The stream started over an hour and a half before the event, with nothing but the still frame to watch. If people were relying on the TH-cam channel to know when the competition started, that may certainly explain the dislikes. Anyway, just a guess.

  • @jcrotty18
    @jcrotty18 5 ปีที่แล้ว +6

    Good event. Best camera work to date, for Asia, compared to other historical events like Chongqing last week which was pretty poor. Women sets were too soft and yet another final was a flashing contest. I feel sorry for Akiyo as the tallest competitor she often gets raw deal on one problem and she almost never gets an advantage for her extra size. For example, in today's women final it was painfully obvious that it was a big advantage to be smaller at the top of W2 when having shorter legs and overall smaller body was very helpful. Glad the men comp saw harder sets but here too huge advantage to the smaller climbers on M3 slab problem. It seems the unwritten rules are that nothing can be set that is too reachy for smaller climbers but the setters seem to have no issue with creating bunch/scrunch problems that the taller folks are at a total disadvantage on.

    • @mathjoker
      @mathjoker 5 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Akiyo got the place she deserved though. Even if she had topped W2 she would have come in 2nd. Janja is just so much better that they basically have to hope she has an super off day to have any chance at winning.
      There does seem to be a bias against tall climbers in general. It's probably because something reachy can be literally impossible for a shorter climber, while something scrunchy is just harder for a tall climber, not impossible. It's a common myth that being tall is an advantage in climbing but that's been disproved many times.

    • @jcrotty18
      @jcrotty18 5 ปีที่แล้ว

      ​@@mathjoker Not true. The only problem Akiyo did not top was W2. If the situation was reversed and the setters created say a long reach problem or a power set that only Akiyo could top then she wins. Recall that Akiyo flashed W1 and Janja took two tries from the zone to top. It was, as have been all the women's finals, a flashing comp for the top two or three females. Janja has been incredible this season, but I think her success has everything to do with good reads, a small advantage in that almost all of the sets fit her smaller body better than Akiyo, and an overall lack of any power setting. The last one, no power sets, and the prevalence of the "new" style of volumes, jumps, and trick moves has allowed the lead route climbers like Janja, Pilz, Miho, etc. to not only be on equal footing with the boulders but to have a shot to win almost every comp.

    • @DavidAKSlo
      @DavidAKSlo 5 ปีที่แล้ว

      Joseph Crotty isn Janja not just 1cm shorter than Akiyo?
      164 cm vs 165cm?
      Just because you are a fan of some other climber, there is no need to look for every possible excuse to justify Janja’s dominance. You shouldn’t even be watching sports. What you are doing is very unsportsmanlike and disrespectful.
      And it is also silly...
      1 cm is the difference in height. Janja is a midget.

    • @jcrotty18
      @jcrotty18 5 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@DavidAKSlo Wikipedia and other sources say they are 1 cm difference but my eyes tell me differently. Akiyo is closer to 2-3" taller or about 5cm. They don't have the same build either as Akiyo has longer legs which was obvious on W2.

    • @RJirl
      @RJirl 5 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@jcrotty18 just a side note, but Akayo and Janja are both 5'5, so no size difference. Janja is stronger and has greater grip strength .. or has suction cups for hands. I'm still undecided.
      Agreed though. Her reads are fantastic and she knows what she is capable of.

  • @driftwoodization
    @driftwoodization 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    To become olympic you have to ask the Girl., the people and the Universe.
    Or you climb.

  • @alexandertoth363
    @alexandertoth363 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Japanese Championships

  • @Kooksrifles
    @Kooksrifles 5 ปีที่แล้ว +4

    Sooooo many stream crashes. Had to refresh the page for about 30 times (no exageration). Any one else have these problems?!

  • @skiltrauma8154
    @skiltrauma8154 5 ปีที่แล้ว

    Olympics 2020

  • @bxatch
    @bxatch 4 ปีที่แล้ว

    Ba-nah-na

  • @tomnichlson
    @tomnichlson 5 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Terrible camera work

  • @sinekonata
    @sinekonata 4 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    @ About to make everyone else look like noobs. Kai thinks for 15" then tops it in 30"...

  • @crispyboing
    @crispyboing 4 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    worst crowd ever?

  • @MiMaTak
    @MiMaTak 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    wtaching this video now... the voice of the female commentator is so irritating I had to turn the sound off

  • @Gamikom
    @Gamikom 4 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Blind judges, disliked...

  • @jipgossink
    @jipgossink 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    2:59:20

  • @s.jackson4603
    @s.jackson4603 5 ปีที่แล้ว +6

    lamest audience ever

  • @shoi6961
    @shoi6961 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    1:10:00