Prusa i3 MK2 3D printer clone live assembly: p1, Y-axis
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 13 มี.ค. 2017
- Full parts list toms3d.org/dolly
Deburring tool (as used on stream) s.click.aliexpress.com/e/YFuvn6u
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Thomas been into 3d printing for 3+ years on and off and finally want to build my own with improvements. Thank you for doing what you do. -California
I'm glad you upload the streams afterward. I'm not superstitious but twice now you've injured yourself moments after I've tuned in live. Not taking any more chances for your sake, recordings works for me.
Tom, when it comes to the part where you start assembling the lower y-axis framework, the measurement of the nuts/washers that hold the vertical frame is not so important, but they must be exactly the same - this affects the 'squareness' of any prints, as it sets the vertical frame (and the x-axis) at 90degrees to the y-axis. Great production, love all your work :-)
Brilliant, and thanks. I am super impressed that you carried on building, talking and concentrating against a backdrop of rude, silly and childish chat...well done.
For metric, in the U.S., Bolt Depot has a great selection at good price. They're on the web and shipping is reasonable.
I'm still waiting for my prusa i3 mk2 to show up. I like to support people doing great things. That being said, you bet your bottom dollar I'm going to try your clone! I love your videos so much man, you do a wonderful job and it clearly shows. Keep up the awesome work!
Thanks!
Dude that is crazy awesome so far. I'm excited to see how this printer turns out.
This reminds me exactly of assembling my RepRap Guru i3 printer for some reason! LOL! My kids were like dad that's not a 3D printer and I was like right I know I have to assemble it first. I really enjoyed assembling the printer but getting it up and running was a whole other issue. Had a bad thermistor and stepper motor wiring cable immediately requiring me to order from Amazon. Now I have like a bunch of extra cables, stepper motors, RAMPS boards, nozzles, bolts, screws, nuts, washers from all the mods and upgrades. Oh the joys of 3D printing! My current project is finding every DIY ABL probe that uses a optical sensor and 9g servo. Plan to make my first TH-cam video about the project. I love the RAMPS 1.6 board, it's much better and won't fry!
Tom, I've used PLA for all of the parts in my repstrap, including Y axis motor mount, and even the hot end mount. No problems, but I have used 50% infill, and I designed my parts to be 'heavier' (thicker) than probably necessary. My Y motor (Nema-23 BTW) is fan cooled, so even running it at 90% of it's current rating, it's cold to the touch. The Jhead style hot end mount is fine, this end of the hot end is on the cold side, extruder heat sink is fan cooled (prometheus hot end), and my X carriage is a thick hunk of aluminum bar stock. Properly designed PLA parts are fine IMHO, but would use ABS for the style extruder/hotend in the prusa mk2.
My repstrap uses an ATX supply, it works, but one of these days I will replace it with a proper 12v supply. In my case a 12.5-15A supply will be fine as my bed heater is running off of a separate 44v supply (A step down transformer from an old stereo amp that is switched (bang-bang) via a 12v coil relay in the primary winding ... 120v in US). Bed is homebrew made from aluminum plate with sand power resistors glued with JB weld to the plate. Heats to 110C VERY FAST! (about 320W!)
I also have a reprap wilson that is all PLA (except for the extruder), again no problems after over a year.
Home Depot does have some metric HW, but I have to buy in small packs, they don't sell it in bulk. I've also found loose metric HW at Ace HW, and a few other large stores, but for some things I just have to buy on line. I think Granger would be a good source, but probably not the cheapest, at least they would have bulk packaging
Thank you, this is great! Keep up the amazing work!
I loved watching it. You are distracted easily but still so nice to watch. Thanks for the video.
Watching this whole thing and I'm saying 'move it along, buddy' the entire time.
You don't even need more mods, just add chat delay. You can set the delay to be whatever you want. Just stopping someone from sending a message for 30 seconds deters spam. You can also still respond to questions in a timely manner, because stream delay is usually ~20 seconds. By the time someone sees you read their question, they'll be able to respond.
I'm finally getting around to building my own Dolly. Yesterday I laser cut three pieces of 1/4" MDF and glued them together. Now to print some parts....
Thanks for the great video Tom. I'm hoping to reuse some of the rods from a previous build to create a Mk2 replicant.
Thomas, love your videos!
You're one of the best resources on the internet if you ask me... 1 piece of constructive criticism... stop reading the real time threads while your doing your videos, it's so hard to watch you lose your train of thought..
Keep up the great work of informing the 3D printer community!!
Tom, One trick to cutting the threaded rods.... I know you spoke of grinding a bevel on it, try following that up with a wire wheel. Been a fabricator for years, the wire wheel will make then smooth and leave a finish that's not likely to cut.
Thanks for the video, have gathered most of the part but still need to mill the joining mounts. Your build is going to help a lot in putting my pieces together! PS. The chat on the side wasn't to great :/
Thanks Thomas ! Awesome work !
Tom, as someone who watched this as a recording after the stream ended...you're entertaining enough! If you can't come up with a way to scale up chat moderation, it'd be better to not have it in the recording at all.
What's with the box in the background that says "Titan Aero"? Is there another E3D Titan coming soon?
Tom enjoying the series, I didn't catch it live here in the US but was happy to watch the recording. I may have jupped the gun when ordering my 3D printed parts from eBay ordered PLA (cheapest), also think I may be missing some parts I didn't get an extruder casing is this one of the parts that you will post on build list? Oh, and yes metric parts are a pain or at least ridiculously priced here in the US. I purchased a box of 1/4" screws and nuts and will see where they work before buying all the M3 screws I did switch to 3/8" and 5/16" rods ordered a M5 rod and it looks nice but cost was not cheap.
37:02 exactly what I think every single time the general public get a taste of fame and show how clever they are. Thanks for the excellent build tips Tom.
About the metric stuff pricing... here in Brazil anything starting with an M is extremely expensive and hard to find.
...including M&Ms
SERIOUSLY! :D
Old video, I know. But I recently taught myself how to 3D model and had a successful print on a Makerbot Replicator Gen 5 at my local library. Looking for a 3d printer to own, and considered building it since I am Fab savvy. Thank you for the informational video! Do you have a recommendation for a current year build, as opposed to this somewhat outdated version?
amazing video, i think i am gonna build it. I appreciate you work a lot , keep going!
Well, did you build it? :D
Normally, I enjoy all of Thomas's videos but the live recordings seem to go so slow with so little done . Ive noticed this on other channels too . I guess ill have to use the fast forward with this format .
Hi Thomas, enjoyed this build and am gonna look for a more recent build if you have a video for one. Started with a used CR-10 mini and am ready to build one like this. One thing I got a little turned around on was your discussion on the 16 vs 20 pulley. It sounded like you were saying the 20 has more resolution and there is no down side, then you say we should get the 16 tooth? I obviously lost something in the translation there. Can you set me straight? Vielen Dank.
Hey, this awesome! A 3D printer would be out of my budget, but this build is actually affordable and fun to do!
Anyways, I can't seem to find the modified 3D printed parts, in the page it says that they are at the bottom, but i don't see any link. I'm sure it was there before when i first saw this build
First off: Great series! To what length did you cut the M10 rods?
Servus Tom!
I am thinking of building myself a Prusa but am unsure about the motors. 0.9° is compelling but which ones to pick? There are 0.4A, 1.7A and 2.4A versions available on Aliexpress and the like. The Trinamic drivers peak at 2.4A so maybe the latter? But on the Reprap wiki I read that higher amp rated motors have less torque at higher speeds. Is there a rule of thumb for this? For the Z axis 1.8° Motors should suffice if I'm using M5 threaded rods or what do you think? Also what about the extruder in regards to step angle and amp rating?
Great livestream and great work in general, keep it up!
Best regards!
Thanks for another great video Tom. Can't believe the amount of useful stuff I've learned so far. That's a helpful tip to have all the nuts, bolts, washers, etc. Just wondering (sorry for bring lazy & researching it myself) what you'd suggest as the sizes of essential nuts, bolts, washers & machine screws for 3d printer hobbyists? Many thanks in advance.
The full parts list page has no pics and probably no links? Is there another page or another updated build page?
regarding PLA becoming brittle (around 13:30) - my x and y endstop holders became unusably brittle after about 4 or 5 years. I think the brittle PLA would still be OK for mechanical applications that don't depend on flexibility.
So, after closser review I think I may have purchased the wrong printed parts for this build. I searched on eBay and and ordered the "RepRap Prusa i3 Rework Printed Parts Kit" which appears to not be all the pieces I will need any chance you could go over what the printed pieces are so I can get the missing items printed when I order the revised items from your build list. Thanks
watching thru these vids now, what was the total cost of this project? (just for bits used, not for extra stuff ordered in bulk)
Metric hardware is almost as easy to find as standard hardware in the US. Fastener retailers like Fastenal sell pretty much any metric fastener you can think of. Even Home Depot sells metric hardware. Hope that helps.
so the nema17 motors seem like the biggest cost, if your willing to trade time anyway to scrounge them from other machines?
Watch out with that RAMPS board. I had the MOSFET's go pop on a board I ordered from china. I replaced them with IRLB8743 TO-220 and have had no issues.
I would have advised to use nylocks or spring waschers to account for vibration
As I want a bigger print bed, can I than just make that part bigger, or do I also need to make changes in the firmware of that diy printer?
Hi Tom. I cannot find the reinforcement part for the y motor on your web site. Can you please provide me the file name or the link to download this file? Thank you.
Do the nuts and washers have to be in a certain position on the rod? Because I don't understand what he was basing where to put the nuts & washers
The Prusa build guide shows how to use the Prusa frame to set proper distances between the M10 rods, and from there, how to square up the frame.
Buying metric in the states isn't so different than buying standard. They're pretty much always sold side by side for the same price.
cheap ATX PSU`s usually need a load on the 5V rail to sustain a load on the 12V rail
lol @ 20:00, i know i should not laugh at other peoples pain, but Tom, you asked for that one. :D chat distraction causes pain.
I built a CNC router/mill a few year ago and would like to add 3D printing to it. Sense it already has the x, y, z completed and running very nicely all I need is a HOT END and ELECTRONICS KIT to get me started. I'm running Mach 3 to run the CNC but will need instructions to incorporate the 3d printer functions. Any help would be greatly appriciated
Hah - was worried about my Z-axis motor holders, since they warped pretty badly. Looked at 11:57 - your holders look exactly the same :D
Not sure the relevance now but it sounds like the nuts that were used in the official build are "low profile" or "jam" nuts. Usually they are more difficult to find but once they are tightened against each other to a level that they will not move the outer planes align. They are usually bad to use alone because they reach fewer threads on the bolt or all thread. I do however like the video. I am just getting into the area and like the Idea of making my own unit at some point.
sorry but I have also honesty to say!
I do like that you shows us how built a printer, but please turn off the chat the next time?
(You're no more focused with the chat on)
and also a question?
would you mount the X axis motor, on the other side?
or should you do once your thoughts over this or perhaps give an opinion on that.
I think this would be even more easily, the frame can then be wider.
(1) and it is become easier to make a box of the printer.
(2) this also in order to make everything more stable!
greetings from the Netherlands!
Rob.
Serious question: the Y idler on the real MK2, can you measure its diameter? I agree that since the pulley is 16tooth the idler should be 16tooth size, but the genuine images and video I see show a much larger 20 tooth idler.
What about the power supply mount? Sorry if you covered it already
Tom as usual a brilliant stream, but the chat really spoilt it for me, before the next one could you please organise a group of mods to really crack down on the children before it gets out of hand.
bigfilsing That's not a bad idea. Or maybe just give mod privileges to patrons of a certain leveI. I don't know. Whatever solution is chosen needs to be scalable.
really.... who the hell spams and troll a live feed of a 3d printer build?.... how the hell did they even know?.... ridiculous..... anyway... great job as always...
It looked like somebody wrote a bot program to spam chat with multiple temp or hacked accounts. Why somebody would do that is anyone's guess. Some people are just assholes with too much free time.
I wish there was a way to make the chat a separate overlay to turn it off for those of us who don't want to read it (I see no point in chat history personally, as long as the host reads out the specific questions they're answering)
I missed the live stream this time though so the chat is making me jealous and depressed that I missed out on the fun :(
I really enjoyed this series, was wondering if you sell parts kits, just the hardware for the build? Its soo difficult & expensive to buy and order plus shipping charges for all the little components, was hoping you could sell just the metal hardware pieces, not the electronics or motors.
For metric I end up finding the closest non metric and drill it out to that size if possible. Especially when getting down to 3mm sizes.
would this final build be better that printing with a Monoprice Select Mini???
during the build, what parts could be upgraded for a better finished product?
The major advantage of the i3 vs the MP Select Mini is the much bigger build volume.
Is there a short version of this (i.e. highlights)?
What happened in the live stream before this one so he had to delete it? :D
Why not separate the chat box? I've seen YT live with the chat box separate. If not live stream thru your website, use CSS. Example
" .element { position:fixed; top:2%; right:2%; } "
If you are not watching this live just switch the speed to 2. settings>speed>2
Much more time effective.
metric fasteners are just as available in the U.S. as standard fasteners are, and the same price. You can get metric fasteners just as easily in the U.S. as you can anywhere else in the world.
Just keep chat on screen in. It's better for people who watching afterward.
But usually spam isn't that bad, what happen yesterday why there are so much of it.
I feel sorry for our beloved KIA Mega Making LOL
Can I use toothed 3mm bore idler instead of smooth one?
Where can i find the STL files for them parts that the z axis lead screw goes through? I'm new to 3d printing and i would like to be able to print replacements cause the ones that came on my cheap printer have parts that are separating.
Try Google: STL files for diy 3d printer or CNC parts
Seems obvious and you probably did ;but since Google search Fascist edition rolled out I find wording things is tricky and doesn't always produce even relevant information. Totally geared to serve as a marketing tool serving paid advertisers over a search engine of the internet.
can i use the frame from graber i3 for this?
i'm new, can you use pla to print the parts???
Just as an observation. I hope that the Trinamic Trams board is good. However I probably won't be buying one. For me clicking on the Buy Now for a tmcc160-eval, ends up bouncing me over to Digikey where I can get one for the low-low price of $252.00 US. (Before shipping and taxes if any for my state.) That sounds like more than you're spending on this entire build. Again, I do hope it's a great product, it's more than half the price of any of the 3d printers I have.
Hey Thomas, I have two ideas for you.
May you could hack a 3D Printer with a treadmill to print infinity in X dimension. This will be an awesome Hack.
A second Hack idea is an roof Hanged 3D Printer. it would print infinity in X and Y, just limited by the Z dimension.
wo schließe ich den kleinen Lüfter vom Extruder auf der Ramps 1,4 an
in the clone Mk2 you round off the threaded bar ends
Hello my friend, What size of M3 screws?
Anyone has a link to that "Y motor holder" part shown at 2h00m40s? It's not on Tom's page about the build nor in Prusa's github (/josefprusa/Prusa3-vanilla/tree/master/src).
I mean the "Y-axis motor reinforcement tilt guard whatever-you-wanna-call-it" part. Also the "y-motor" part from the Prusa github you linked on your page doesn't have a switch support at all. Is /Prusa3-vanilla/ the right URL?
since this is all about the cheapness, whats everyones opinion on the best controller under $50
i've always used the ramps 1.4 and never had an issue.... but would upgrade to something more modern under $50 if it was worth it...
can you give me links of the hardware you bought???
A bit more earlier live stream for tonight would be nice.
Tom, Texas is 1.95 times as large as Germany.
I'm ashamed of myself. I took waaaaayyy too long to understand why you called it dolly :D
I wish I was as smart as this guy
I'm working from home and one screen fixing stuff and on the other screen this clip, as moving wallpaper.
Every time someone in chat says "Hi" take a drink.
Every time Thomas mentions "Night Bot" take a drink...? XD
Take a drink every time someone asks a question that he's already answered...
Take a drink every time someone asks "what are you building".
There were more tools in the chat than on the workbench.
I'm watching this again because I love it...btw... dolly - cloned sheep...
Thanks!
Thank you
They sell both metric and imperial in the states. I find it difficult sometimes though to find metric. Some stores dont carry it, but you can go right down the road to the same store chain and find it there, kinda weird. Yes imperial is more common, but for most of the engineers that in know, including myself, we prefer the more sane method of measurement lol ;) As for shipping, its crazy expensive even within the country, I dont understand why we have to pay so much where other countries have the same kind of government and 3rd party mail systems in place, and only pay a fraction of what Americans have to pay. As if we needed more reasons to lose faith in our own government.
13:34 - вот странные вопросы у зрителей! ведь пластик PLA уже при 60 градусах цельсия превращается в пластилин.
Did somebody catch the name of the tool he use for scratching some material so it has a perfect fit. It is on 48:11. Thanks
"Draper Pipe Deburring and Chamfering Tool Set Deburrer for Metal Burr Removal"
it is a deburring tool, you can find it with a google
I can't find it as well, pls some keywords or aliexpress link folks
lmgtfy.com/?q=deburring+tool
Thanks all
tom you are awesome
Gracias saludos desde Colombia
oh god 20 minutes into the video and there's already bloodshed
You seemed surprised when someone said Texas was as large as Germany. Texas is actually almost twice as large as Germany. Germany is 357,021 km2 and Texas is 696,241 km2.
Someone should make a "fancy" clone with a mahogany frame and stained wood-filament parts.
RE: "[people] in the US, what's your experience in finding metric hardware?" -- I mean, they seem to cost the same as US hardware as far as I can tell? -- my printer uses mostly US sized hardware, but I try to keep both stocked -- I don't buy in bulk though.
RE: "Shipping" -- Shipping in the US is as complicated and ridiculous as our healthcare.
Wat!? stream on weekday OTL
Hi Tom. Great videos. People at least I came to watch the build and not watch idiots on Chat. You spent WAY to much time messing with the chat and worrying about the spam. People who want the chat see it in the browser anyway and don't need it in the video feed. add it after the fact if you want but you wasting your time also wastes our time.
Wow, dein Chat ist ja richtig respektlos. Ich hoffe, du hast das mittlerweile hinbekommen) Grüsse aus dem schönen Hessen.
be nice if you can leave the chat out for the main vids dont need to see it while trying to learn. thx
Love your video's, F spammers! :(
I suggest, remove chat from the viewers. Just make it so only you can see it. Just use chat as a tool to pull out questions when you run out of things to talk about. You can just read the questions that you want to answer out loud.
Ugh I missed the stream and now it will not load