Deadly USB Charger (Fake Apple) + Explosions
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 ก.พ. 2017
- A deadly dangerous USB charger (fake Apple iPhone charger) from China. Sold on Ebay for 90 cents including shipping. The PCB board has only 1mm distance between primary and secondary side. The EMI capacitor between primary and secondary side is only rated 1kV (should be Y1 class with a test voltage of 8kV). The transformer isolation is also questionable. The power supply has no fuse (just mains-bridge-electrolyte!). This poses serious risk of fire. When the power transistor shorts out (and it is likely to do so, because there's no snubber network), the primary of the switching transistor gets essentially connected to mains with no fusing. This is likely to cause a meltdown of the transformer and get mains to the output. An explosive test has demonstrated this :). Never try to do this experiment. Never use this device. Extreme danger. Video includes 2 explosions and 2x tripped breaker.
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Today, there was fire in my neighbour's home. The fire was caused because of a shorted out charger. The power went out. When the electrician said that it was caused by a shorted out charger, I remembered this video and now I can relate your theoretical explanation of how the charger can short out in real life.
Yes we should be careful always
Me: :(
*DiodeGoneWild video*
Me: :)
chelar estelar ;3
8:31 for the explosions.
He should have said "Partlely charred" instead of "completely blown up"
Thank youuu
Sam's Channel531 thanks😍😍😍😍😍😍
You sure have lived up to your channel's name!
At 9:30 when the transformer blows up, mine looks like this.... xD
th-cam.com/video/Z7X7QNDi1mQ/w-d-xo.html&t=674
@@BillAnt Looool 😂😂🤣🤣😁🐸
One thing about Apple chargers that I've never seen the copiers do: look inside the USB port. The serial number is printed inside. You can see it at 2:52. I'm not saying this is a sure fire way (get it?) to tell a genuine from a fake, but it's always worked for me.
just look between the prongs. There should be an Apple logo, and the other stuff
I am impressed that 99 cent charger was so good. It was very interesting to see that cheap, thin layers of copper tracks worked like a fuse.
So good at killing somebody, huh ?
4:06 “Just 1mm between mains and you”
A powerful quote
Man, I´ve watched hundreds of videos about electronics, yours are amazing! Instructable and so funny!
A friend of mine used plugged in a fake (and I imagine cheap) charger at my home once, and managed to trip the fuse whilst I were cooking.
I am sure you can imagine my reaction back then.
I'm using this charger (looks absolutely same as yours) for one year and nothing happened. Bought on Aliexpress for about one dollar with free shipping. It powers my phone in the garden thats used as a camera 24/7. Maybe I should consider buying a proper charger...
Yes! Please make more videos with explosions :)
Nice Video, Thanks 😊
du hier
So finally you got the remote for the powercube!
The snubber circuit on the right of the 3 is the one I normally use. It's worth putting it in, because at the very least, it will reduce the temperature rise of the power transistor. With out it, the transistor goes into avalanche mode, just like a high voltage Zener diode. that creates a temperature rise, which can cause failure by high temperature. Switching circuits like this are very low impedance, and can be made safe with a 1/2 amp fuse on the input. I also recommend a 10 Ohm resistor in series with the input to protect the bridge rectifier from the current surge of charging the capacitor. Good set ups actually include an inductor in series with the input. If the bridge goes out, or the power transistor, it blows the fuse so quickly, that nothing has a chance to heat up. You likely won't smell anything, except maybe the 10 Ohm resistor, and the unit simply stops working.
Nice video mate
Poor little pcb, murdered LOL :-D
Thats a similar-ish circuit to the one used in the +5 +12 v external hard drive psu's (cheap flypower type).
Now they are cheap, but ive had no problem with them, although i do drill ventilation holes in all my supplys, i dont like the ovan effect on parts :-(.
Heatsinks dont work without cooler air flow.
really good video!!
I bought the fake one in bali for the components inside, i never tested it tho, this makes me not want to
How do you misure the power consumption with a multimeter in voltmeter mode? I world like do o ne for me too
Nice explosion, I love it! I have one question for you - is this 2-transistor supply any better than the 1-transistor ones, like on your website? Also, is there any chance that you measured the efficiency of your LED driver, I built it a few years back and it's doing great working 2+ hours each day. But I measured power consumption from the mains, it's 3W and I only have 1W on the output. Is this normal or I messed it up? I expected 50% or higher.
The 2 transistor circuit can be more efficient and the current limiting threshold is more predictable. ,... What LED driver do you mean?
DiodeGoneWild I meant this one: danyk.cz/izled_en.html
You built lots of stuff, I understand that you can forget something :)
Of course, I have built so many devices with LEDs :) and most of them years ago. The most tricky part is, as always, the transformer. Wrong transformer selection can lead to horrible efficiency. Low power supplies also tend to be less efficient than the high power ones. You can also try to change some values, like the startup resistor (470k), the snubber loading resistor (100k) to a bit higher value. Also the feedback capacitor (2n2) is important, it sets the operating frequency and can have significant impact on efficiency.
DiodeGoneWild The thing is that I followed your instructions precisely, the core is 4.5*4.5mm like you mentioned, but I wound the aux winding with a single 0.5mm wire. I'm pulling about 300ma so I thought it will be fine. I'm gonna try some tips you gave me and write back :)
Alright, here are the results: originally it oscillated at blazing 26kHz, now at 58kHz. I changed the startup resistor to 2*470K in series, base resistor to 100R, feedback cap to 1n. I didn't change values in the snubber, but I did replace 100K 0.25w resistor with 100K 0.5w because the old one is a bit discolored :)
Now it consumes about 2.3W instead of 3.1W. To get to 80kHz, I will have to use less than 1n cap in the feedback and I think that might cause problems (the transistor won't receive enough base current to switch hard). What do you think about that?
You deserve more subs!
NO, He deserve only Quality subs that he already have.
Little hint on Apple chargers that are *often* not copied: the serial number of the charger is printed *inside* the USB port. Shine a light inside and you will see it.
Sometimes ebay sellers will sell junk alongside the proper listing so that their listing appear higher than other people. Like a charger for $2, but when you sort by price, the fingernail sticker comes up first for $0.7.
Problem is that many of these dangerous power supplies are included in the delivery of mobile phones, tablets, or other household appliances already included. Of course, you can not check at first glance how much the power supply has cost and if it is of high quality. For full safety then only helps:
- Throw away power supply
- buy cheap but not too cheap and renowned power supply
Or (for smartphones and tablets)
- load the device via USB to the PC
Thank you
2:12
I was interested in the specification of that high voltage MOSFET (the big ST one - it looks like a chip), but in fact it's an obsolete part already ... boo! It's the STL7NM60N 600V 5.8A 805mOhm N-channel FET.
Modernity is so relative...
Dude, ur accent is awesome! BTW I subbed
good work i love your videos keep up the good work man :D god bless
good job, Thank you
This one exploded me in power socket, it even broke one power plug socket...
When calculating the fault current as 230V/7ohm, don’t you have to factor in the inductive reactance of the transformer at 50Hz?
Since these transformers designed for high frequencies, inductance at 50hz can be considered negligible.
There is DC voltage there , about 310V DC, he forgot to calculate it. By the way, 5 or 7 amps, it doesnt matter....
@@voitano73 It won't be a DC voltage at all. It will be a pulsating DC with an RMS voltage of 230V and so the power dissipated in the transformer winding will be what he said. The smoothing provided by the 2uF capacitor is almost non existent when loaded with the 7 ohms of the transformer primary.
Imagine if this was connected to a circuit with a much higher amp rating and no RCD or GFCI.
Can some magnificent person, buy this magnificent man, a slow-mo cam for these cool "SCIENTIFIC TESTS" ??? I would love to see slow mo of those circuit explosions..
Buys an iphone then buys a cheap charger ?
The Apple charger is actually kind of crazy, the purpose is just to create a 5V power source that is safe in case of failure, that's all. Yet the Apple charger has hundreds of components on it and you would expect it to be like a mini-computer circuit board or something with that many components on it, yet all it does is create a 5V power supply, lol.
The Apple chargers fail often, and I think it's because they have way too many components than necessary.
The actual basic design that the Chinese one uses, lasts longer in fact, but being Chinese they cut a few corners, if they used a proper capacitor, larger separation gap, and also added a fuse, then it would in fact last longer than the Apple one.
i watch most of your videos, please add "Explosions" if there is any, i will immediately watch it. Always be careful DGWild.
Another great video ! oh, 7 ohms with vom or 7 ohms xl ?
Also some cooper in the back act like a fuse
Mine is still working great, even after 3 years non-stop usage. For a mere $0.70..
I don't know if that counts as a coincidence, but your video was recommended to me by TH-cam after I stumbled upon your website while looking for resources on cheapo 1-transistor power supplies like the one in the video. And although your website is very helpful, do you know where I could find more detailed resources on that type of power supply architecture, with calculations, etc?
Thanks!
That's really dangeroous
Once half of my charger fell off and I tried to put it back together and it exploded
I guess they use the traces on the circuit board as a fuse!
chinesse charger exploded to my schoolmate once in the class. now I know why. But to be honest I was expecting only drop capacitor and bridge rectifier in it
When I charge my iPhone XR the USA apple adapter gets hot no explosion or fire it hot to the touch
I wonder what the output voltage going into the phone looks like when the transformer smokes.
Make tutorial how to make wattmeter out of that multitester, please.
i have one of those powering a LED nightlight in the hallway wow.
or is it a "night fire" ???
@@willrobbinson LMAO
1:00 Why have the first 4 outlets been crossed out with a marker?
I assume the last one is red because of backup power....
@Peter B stuffed power board , real prob down under in au most power boards are junk
this red one is for PC. when you draw power from red outlet, then rest of outlets are turned on by a relay
Thanks for Interesting video.
Super.
Thanx.
Very good video.
I had one with a us plug. It nearly blew up a short length ego battery I had. I checked the battery and it was too hot to hold. My house would of been burned down, that’s why you should never charge ecig batteries, while out.
hummmm I get the distinct impression he like blowing that thing up!
Unfortunately, the primary circuit path you drew in red is incorrect. Current does _not_ enter the collector of the 13003 and exit the base. It's an NPN transistor, so current will exit the emitter, pass through the 5.1-Ω resistor, and return via the negative rail.
You missed when he said that when the power transistor fails there will likely be a collector to base short apart from the collector-emitter short.
Kxkddkfx
Do an isolation impedance test :)
Hello
at 1:20 the DVM-range is 200mV!!!!!
Diode Gone Donestic
I am using this charger for 2 years, still working...
luck doesn't always shines...
Never buy cheap copies. Buy the original.
I remember when I buy a cheap copy of a surface rt, it's stoped working about 3 weeks. I buy the original and it's working over 3 years. No lags, no overheat, etc.
Mohl bys někdy udělat video v češtině :)
Coming here because my fake iPhone charger blew up in my phone
Sir i have a question related to cell phone charger...so
Can you help me...?
When i apply a ac supply in charger circuit board some buzzing or whistling sound come out from transformer.
So whats the problem in it and how to reduce the sound of noisy charger circuits?
Dont use diffrnt device /mobile
Its puts load on
Charger
Another way to tell if it's a real iPhone charger, is that all Apple chargers have the serial number of the charger printed inside the USB port. You can see this at 2:51.
Pretty sure this type of charger also has zero isolation in the transformer, so you really don't want to be using it for anything at all.
CE logo always spells a bad omen.
"CE" stands for "Charger Explodes"
you should wire your lights to different breaker just in case a wall socket shorted it will not turn of the lights
There's a 10A light circuit breaker and 16A wall socket breaker. Unfortunately, when I short my socket, not only the 16A breaker turns off, but also a common 25A breaker that I have before the electricity meter.
isnt 25A low for the whole home?
that's what the electricians did to my house when it was being constructed
a large fuse box is wired to the sockets, while a small fuse box is wired to the lights
but mostly of the lights in my house go short-circuit because the water from rain passes through the roof of my house and the water climbs to the wirings of the lights, the roof of my house was 17-18 years old, and will be fixed
How u measure power?
Was he telling "DIRTY" ???
Is it ok to add a fuse in the live line to avoid this explosion? Thanks!
Not really because of all the other problems with the charger. A fuse wouldn't stop the charger killing you through the metal body of a phone (or the end of a USB cable) should something else in it break.
Dear respected I I would like to repair power supply of MA_1210A China's manufacturer plz guide and make a video on it
Damn i have one of these and it explode while i charging my ipad and it broke my 3.5 jack and kills mic (((
How much grams does the original have?
The front gives it away. A real Apple wouldn’t have white plastic around the USB, they would have gray plastic.
No the 1 amp bridge rectifier will limit your 32 amp current in 1 amps
Good decision to blow it up
I clicked for the fireworks thumbnail
What component is that? 5:19
today my friends real apple charger broke leaving the electronics plugged into the wall. When we tried to remove it it pretty much exploded. oh and did I mention this was in the band room at my school
That charger neverr going to work again..lol
32 amps throught the system, NICE!
I had one like that
my radio usb port shorted and i dont know it was shorted and i put my usb stick in it and my usb stick is shorted >:*(******
can you make a video how unshort it pls
the fake charger looks so much better lol
Your finger at the start looks like it has hashish resin on it
Why apple make that small chargers
CE Marking. And a correct drawn one as well. Certifique Europeienne? More like Chinese Export.
Also change the circuitry of original charger and try to explode it
it wont explode, bcs internal protection circuit will blow up. btw he didnt change the circuitry he just simulated what will happen. as so many people are getting electrocuted and accidents are happening due to these fake chines chargers.
I had s Samsung clone blow up on me
Bloody hell!
You and ElectroBoom should collab.
I also have that fake charger.
The explosion is at 8:35
Čech? 😀 Tuto nabíječku jsem si koupil za 20,- ale jak vidim tak jí asi radši nebudu používat.
Hello can a ask a favor @Diode gone wild
Yes 💯
the click sounded like nintendo switch
nice screen protector😂
this is why AINT nobody butt will explode
07:32 but isn't the 3M9 in parallel with the 7 ohm winding ? *Does some calculations* Oh nvm, a 3900000 ohm and 7 ohm resistor in parallel are equal to a 6,9999874 ohm resistor, negligable difference.