I Discovered This Hidden Wiring Trick In An Old Forum!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 17 พ.ค. 2024
- Save the squats for the gym! This simple trick saves you time and energy while wiring up receptacles and light swtiches! #electrical #diy #construction
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00:00 - Introduction
00:09 - Inspiration from Mike Holt’s electrical forum
01:10 - Demonstrating the pre-wiring technique
02:31 - Speed and comfort of the new method
41:21 - Practical Demonstration: Setting up at the workbench
07:33 - Tip#1 No lever Lifting while wiring
07:55 - Tip#2 Wrap Levers with Electrical Tape
09:03 - Conclusion - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
In Europe we have switches and outlets which have a Wago Style connector built in. No need to attach wires work hooks, screws or something similar. Strip the isolation, put it into the connector on the outlet and you're done
If you would have watched the video until at least 5:49, you would have seen this also exists in the US.
The problem is that in Europe we don't join cables in the box where the socket or switch is installed, this is usually done in separate central boxes. This way you allways know where to go instead of opening up all sockets to see where they are connected.
@BenvanBroekhuijsen et al. The benefit of pigtails over passing through the receptacle is that your entire circuit does not go down due to a faulty receptacle. The faulty receptacle is where the problem lies, so there is no need for searching.
Wago and push connectors handle more than enough for what the wire is rated for. The little "bus bar" inside the connector is enough. I love it for lighting and switches because you know they are going to get changed in 20-30 years or less. Receptacles may go 50+ years. Might only consider a mechanical connection with wire nut for 20amp or kitchen, bathroom receptacles that are going to see high draw on the regular.
Depends how soon the renovation will be--might as well make it easier on the next guy... next guy might also be me.
My only doubts are that I have yet to see the 1000 x heating cycles test on Wagos that might cause the failure of the plastic/tensioning mechanism. Even then, they will arc themselves into oblivion and/or trip the arc fault breaker. Just a little puff of smoke. Nothing compared to the crap North Americans do with extension cords and power bars that get surrounded by loads of flammable stuff.
Nervous Nelly sparkies and DIY should go back to SOLDERING their wire connections like the "good old days" so they can sleep at night in their belts and suspenders.
Not all receptacles and switches in the EU do have the wago style terminals. On top of that, this kind of pre-wired appliances still can save some time. It is much effortful to plug the wires to a small appliance and then to bend the wires in the right direction to better fit them in the box. The way described you just come to the box and connect wires color on color, it can be done by anybody.
Never use stab ins on receptacles. It's bad practice and can cause fires. It's been proven time and time again that they're far less reliable than hooks. Never take shortcuts to save a minute when that building may stand 100 years.
@@ivosscz not all but almost all do. Time those saves vs cost benefits customer and contractor in many cases.
I did this exact thing building my house. I made pigtails and sat on the couch watching tv putting the pigtails on 100 receptacles, then just go back when they’re ready to install. Putting the WAGOs on when rough wiring made it possible to safely energize the circuit for local temp power at strategic locations.
I love using "WAGO" electrical connectors, and setting yourself up for success!
Yes, I am a homeowner and a Handyman whom uses "WAGO" electrical connectors all the time. I find them to be easy and efficient to use whilst making electrical connections.
Your ideas are sound and have excellent merit!
Well done, Sir!
I'm a firm believer in eliminating as many connection points as possible. So when ever possible making the connection directly to the receptacle. Vertical for the screw.
Vertical prevents dust from settling inside
Very timely video, I'm headed to my son's house to help him build a couple of cabinets and book shelves that will have outlets and switches in them. We've done a lot of renovations, and these tips will make it that much easier. At 65 years old, making things simpler, and doing as little bending of my aching back is always a better way to go. Love your channel, and best wishes of getting to 1M subscribers.
Great of you to help with those projects and best of luck with it! Thank you so much for the kind words!
My first use of WAGO's was to replace the light fixture of a ceiling fan. Those made a big difference when dealing with stranded wiring. I have also used them to replace a double receptacle with a single 4-way oulet. Made the box less crowded doing away with those extra wiring connections.
feedback: I hate long videos that could've been one paragraph.
That’s most American content. At least he’s not got a baseball cap on. Yawn.
Don’t watch
I’m so slow in remodeling my house that I first started using wire nuts and bought a bunch in 2008. When WAGOS made it to Amazon years later I switched the newest outlets (pigtailed) to them. The biggest benefit is my 4 gang light switch box at the front door for 2 sets of timer lights for the front door and garage down lights are fed by a dimmer switch. The key is the indoor inside door light for the stairwell is a 3 way switch. WAGO’s made hooking up the connections a lot easier as less space used. Also the real beauty is the MULTIWIRE BRANCH CIRCUIT that feeds this switch and 3/4 of the lights upstairs and some bedroom outlets is now on a WAGO. So I don’t have to cut power when I needed to add the one outlet in the garage that was originally part of this big circuit. I can keep it energized and when the GFCI outlet trips it won’t take out the whole upstairs. WAGOs are the way.
I liked the video, that's a fantastic idea. I'm an RV technician, and I use Wagos all the time for stranded low voltage wire. But, I've had mixed results on solid wire in an RV that's moving constantly.
Automotive tends to use stranded for good reason. Is solid core standard in RVs?
@@chaos.corner it is for the "house" wiring. it's in romex, and often uses mash-on devices with insulation displacement connections. goes together fast, fails fast.
@@chaos.corner The low voltage (DC) wire is stranded, But most house wiring that is A/C, is 12 and 14 gauge Romex
Great video Nils! My sister bought me the volt claw - OMG it is freakin amazing. I added an outlet for her new gas stove and I was pushing in the 12awg wires with my thumb. I'm like get this voltclaw for me for Christmas. The next day there was an amazon package from her. I used it in my shed wiring. Super awesome for pushing in the wires, pulling wires but also using it to bend the wires for a panel.
Thanks, John! I had never heard of the VoltClaw so I just looked it up and I'll have to try one. Great tip!
as a total rookie here I discovered two-way Wagos (like in-and-out) realy made my first job go easy
I saw those a while back and now have them on the way here, if Amazon can find my package.
I put an off-white receptable in a room with wallpaper because it matched the colors in the paper much better than the white.
I'm doing a project right now and I wrapped all my Wago connectors with tape. I certainly don't plan on having to disassemble all those pigtails, ever, and even if I did unwrapping them won't be any more annoying than taking the box(es) apart in the first place. And I get some peace of mind while folding the wires into the box.
Hi. I just watched your mini split installation. You can upsize your supply wire size to 10 awg but you can't upsize the circuit protection. The equipment requires a maximum 15 amp circuit protection in order to cut off past that for safety reasons. The unit should be protected by fuses or a ckt breaker of 15 amps.
Another advantage is we can make a stock of outlets or switch already made, and use then on the job.
Great video and you definitely deserve over a million subscribers.
As a frequent electrical DIYer, I actually use both WAGO lever nuts and wire nuts (either Ideal or CE) pretty equally. I always use WAGOs when I'm making junction boxes, installing fixtures on a ladder, or extending short wires using their inline connectors. Otherwise, I'm good with wire nuts.
Also, I like how Ideal has their alternative to WAGOs, which has made it to the big box stores (where I buy my wire nuts from). I like their design better since the levers face the opposite direction which makes connections safer and easier to use IMO. I wish I could get those but I'm now stuck with a bunch of WAGOs so no going back lol
Love the workbench work and then adding to pigtail.
I absolutely love WAGO connectors, if you're using only solid core wire you can use the WAGO 2273 they don't have levers, they're only pushin.
Good video for traditional outlets and switches. But if you using sidewire ones, I'd think you could insert the wire (from the box) directly into the sidewire, vs creating and attaching pigtails for each, and connecting with level nuts.
Leviton Decora Edge Outlets wire connections with the lever ---- I saw you talk about making the wire connection with these in a video. I bought some and opened them up. They look on the outside like they would be similar to a WAGO connection, but inside they are not what one would think. The connection is no different than the back stab holes we all think are a very poor connection! Open one up and dissect the insides, I think you will be as surprised as I was. I am back to shepherds hooks or the flat plate that squeezes the wire.
--
Don
Good to know that, Don. I know that if you wiggle the receptacle back and forth, the wires will come out easily.
I use those knipex self adjusting strippers too. They are amazing. The only one I’ve ever found that can actually strip Teflon insulated aviation wire and that says a lot!
My screws are parallel to receptacle slots and light switches. In most cases Team Vertical, unless the box is mounted sideways.
Thank you for sharing your experience
Horizontal is just more aesthetic to my eyes.
I’ve been doing this for years, even before wago clips, I’d do it with wire nuts, I just didn’t pre connect the two wires in the box, just leave them hang, go to my bench (kitchen table) wire up the plugs/switches and the only thing I’d have to do at the box is twist’em up.
Instead of cream or white we opted for all black switches and outlets in our new house. We’re really happy with the style choice and get a lot of compliments. The biggest con for us is that it really limited my options for smart switches.
Decor Plugs And Switches Are Not Worth The Extra cash!! And Black Is DATED! White Is The Most Common Color Today And Ivory Was back In The 70's Brown Screams 60's etc.
Your videos are amazing ❤! You are so smart!
Thanks so much for watching and for the kind words (even if I'm only good at sharing what others do so well)!
Vertical mostly but consistency is more important. If all the other screws are horizontal then I do horizontal.
Heat shrink tubing can be used to cover the levers instead of tape. It makes a much better strain relief and can easily be adjusted to leave the wago wiring window visible. The only down side is having to use a heat gun to apply the heat shrink tubing.
By the time you go through all that you might as well use wire nuts.
Ambidextrous vertical or horizontal depends on location and accompanying outlets and devices. But we mustn't forget those who go screwless.
FYI there are commercial grade outlets that have a connector on the back with a pigtail that can be pre-installed in the boxes and then the plugs just get plugged in I guess that's a weird sense maybe I should've used receptacle.
I worked this out when wiring up some shaver sockets which are heavy and awkward. Same technique for installing new LED light fittings.
Necessity is the mother of invention. Way to go and thanks for sharing!
this is how I did every plug/switch in my house when we built it. Made it so much easier.
What would make this even better for prep, is if there were snap-in locations inside the boxes for the wagos to be fastened down.
Electrical tape makes a mess inside device boxes. Somehow over time the adhesive ends up on everything.
I've never been fond of finding it in there when going back where someone has used it. That said I also don't
like the idea of adding more breaks in the wiring than necessary.
electrical tape in the box is useful for telling at a glance that a handyman's been there.
Because of some weird governmental decree in the 1950's, black electrical tape has to have black adhesive/ All the other colors of the rainbow of electrical tape are exempt, and so use clear tack. This used to be in Mil Spec books of years gone by, and people that worked in industry, did UL Approval, etc knew about it, but what a waste. Use colored tape to avoid the mess
You're talking about a power outlet - usually with multiple interconnected outlets and a switch on each device - or a light switch controlling a screw-in light fixture, which may or may not have multiple connections inside.
Adding one more semi-permanent wago nut which you've prepared in a well-lit location isn't going to be worse than faffing about with no light, on the floor, with bare wires.
I did make the comment about wrapping the body of the wago to keep the levers from inadvertently lifting when pushing everything into the box upon closing everything up. The customer I was working for had a policy of this detail on all terminations using the wago connection. If Scotch 33 tape is used and not the cheap off brand tape, and one leaves a tail on the wrap, it makes it easier for the next guy that needs to open that connection in the future. 9:23
They’re called ivory. And my 3000 sqft house is full of them. WACOs is what I used on a basement living space refurb upgrade. So much nicer than wire nuts. FYI chinesuim knock off Waco are junk and don’t grip very well.
I’ve always cut my zip ties flush with flush cutters. I cut my Wagon levers flush too. Less chance of snagging.
Really love eagle for aluminum wire!
What does that mean? Is "eagle" a brand name for something?
So timely! Keep it coming.
Nice, informative video. Instead of tape to secure the levers, you could try small rubber bands, they can be pushed down if you need to lift a lever instead of having to unwrap tape.
As for the color, when I wired my shop, I used different color receptacles to indicate circuit, so I have white, brown, grey, orange and blue. That way, when I plug something in, I know what else may be running on that particular circuit. I might mention, each receptacle location is a double-gang box with two receptacles in each box. That gives each box two circuits available incase I need to use two high amp devices at that location. I did take care to put both circuits on the same feed leg in the panel to ensure there cannot be an accidental 240v crossover.
Rubber rots. Orange outlets indicate "clean" power for sensitive devices.
seriously dude? reminds me of Homer Simpson smashing an orange onto his face and saying "You mean there's a better way??"
Good info.
I like the brown covers and white plugs for contrast.
Only thing I don't care for with the pre-wired outlets as shown is doing that adds one more unnecessary connection point
Only thing i don't like about passing feed/load through the side of the outlet is when the connection gets weak, it causes more problems with down stream power. It always happens, it may be years, but it always happens.
Plus pigtail wut lever nuts, you don't have to turn off the breaker to swap out later, remove the pigtail from the wago, move pigtails to new switch/receptical and basically done.
Good tip ( why didn't i think of that?) BTW First time i used the wagos a lever came undone when jamming stiff 12 Ga wires into a small box. So when I'm sure I'm done adding wires i usually do it now. Of course i check for proper insertion before taping
Same thing happened to me in a crowed switch box. Just as I'm about to fully seat the switch into place, I noticed one of the Wago levers had caught on a loop of wire and had unlatched. A couple of wraps of electrical tape took care of it but that almost put off of using Wagos.
I tried them once (name brand) and one easily broke apart. Easy, but expensive and a poor connection.
For solid wires im mostly using WAGO 2273 series. Way less space and little better connection
That color for the cover plate that you're groping for is IVORY.
Also, almond.
Backstabbing is the same as Wagos. Even straight under a screw is a better connection.
Why is it that in all American videos I see about WAGO, they use the kind with the levers (221 series)? For fixed installations they are far too expensive, too big, take too much time to install, are prone to mishaps with the levers in tight quarters and take up too much space in your truck. You may want to try the 2273 series for that!
Oh, and in Europe we stopped using wirenuts some 30-40 years ago …
I'm all about "Enchancing" Safety 🤣
It would be a good idea to prep a bunch of outlets/switches so you have some for a quick job. So if you doing new work and doing the box prep, take note of how many you've done and prep that many outlets/switches while waiting for the drywall guys to do their thing. Otherwise a small handful for one off jobs.
Im a rebel - diagonal.
Leviton outlets and switches are the way to go. Easy Peazy.
I like that it “enchances” safety. 1:00
You gotta ask yourself. Do you feel lucky?
IDEAL Makes, 8" 12 AWG STRANDED WIRE NON-GROUNDING PIGTAIL W/#10 FORK & STRIPPED END in all three colors. For about $1 a piece the labor cost savings make it worth it. However with the new Leviton Decora EDGE outlets and switches. Do you trade aesthetics for speed? Well it is a matter of preference. It seems like even the cheapest of outlets from 20 years ago last 20+ years with no issues.
The color of off white is “almond” and I had in one of my homes and it worked for that house .. with lots of woodwork. White would not work there.
Ivory or Almond?
Muito bom já uso a um tempo!
Que otimo, cara!
Do your Wago 221s not have levers like ours in the UK? It looks like you're just pushing the conductor straight in while the lever is closed, instead of opening it, inserting then closing again. I was under the impression that closing the lever causes the Wago to "bite" the conductor thus stopping it coming out. Love your videos by the way.
They have levers he just didn't use them for unknown reasons
At 7:26 I explain that you can insert the wire without lifting the lever. It would be fun to do a comparison video with and without using the lever to see if it has any impact.
We dont use wagos in the states, we cut them off and ise wire nuts like a professional. I can yank wires right out of wagos by hand, not doingbthat with a nut.
@@Roofer0420 Well that's dumb. Why do you pull so hard you rip the wires from a wago? Is that going to happen in a box?
@@Roofer0420 you use some china copy what steals your data. You need twist and pull with real WAGO. With bad luck wire snaps anyways before.
that makes the third pronunciation of knipex, 😂
Change to wago 2273-203... Standard if u hav standard wire .. finer wires should be in 221.. its simple in euro... thx for this vid
How long do you make your prewires to the outlet? 5"?.....Looks like Eaton is releasing WAGO style outlets soon. This will make it even easier. Its like an evolution how Sharkbites and PEXA are everywhere at Home Depot now. 10 years ago only pro shops.
Always team horizontal! Great video
Nice. Thanks for watching and representing!
Good video, could have used it last week 😂
No better connection than twisting solid copper with your linesman pliers and screwing on a wire nut.
Just starting to use the wagos, we'll see.
Cover plate screw horizontal or vertical?, come on man.
And it's not cream color it's freaking Ivory! Lol
Good video
Wago is the real hero here.
I always wonder why you only show 221 Wagos with the lever. Dont you have Wago 2273 in the US?
Lever Wagos are great for connectin solid to stranded wires. But for solid connections only 2273 are cheaper and smaller and no lever to get feared.
Later chapter titles are from the snap knife video
Thanks - we missed that! Fixed now :)
Those exposed screw terminals for mains equipment (zero shrouds) seems completely nuts to a non-american... especially for a frame that you need to handle.
I thought I smelled plastic burning
No. Strip the jacket off the cable, leave extra length, and fold the wire as far back in the box as you can. Sheetrockers love rotozips and are guaranteed to do damage to some of your wires. Make the joints after the sheetrock is up.
Then the painters paint...EVERYTHING!
@@solarsynapse happens if you do wire and conduit or mc cable anyway. Removing the jacket makes it easier to fold back. Besides, would you rather have paint on the insulation or wires nicked by a rotozip?
@@ianbelletti6241The painters painted the switches, outlets and data jacks! The drywallers used a long bit once that reached the back of the boxes and destroyed my data cables and the electricians power cables. Good thing I always leave a service loop at the top.
@@solarsynapse that's what a back charge is for. You make them pay for doing things in a way that costs you more parts and labor. They don't need to know about the service loop.
@@ianbelletti6241 👍
I subscribed! Good content
don't use backstab but use these other things that are effectively backstabs. lol.
so where is the trick of leaving one slot of the wago emty after install ?
Not a fan of white receptacles, always been a fan of cream receptacles. I had no idea white ones are coming back
I don’t understand any resistance to lever nuts/wagos. They are the best for troubleshooting and preventing loose wires in a wire nut. I have never had a loose connection when using wagos. When taking connections apart just click up, test and reconnect. There videos showing wagos failing at high amperage… The breaker will pop before the wago fails. I used the “push in” type before finding the lever nuts/wago. Never going back to wire nuts.
Open the lever on the connector like they were designed to insert the wires
Prior to inserting a wire in a Wago 221 block you need to open the lever, IMHO...
I sit on a bucket. Throw the trash in the bucket.
There's a machine that cuts and strips lengths of wire, so we sometimes even have the pigtails attached to the receptacles before they come to the job site.
I watched a video where the CEO of Knipex pronounced it like knee-pecs so I think there is some variability in the pronunciation.
Team vertical on cover screws. That's so that when the plumber finds out he forgot a shark bite on a supply line above the devices, the water can run easily down the screw slots. 8^)
7:11 what's holding that plate on? Where's the screw?
Good info. Whatever happened to you 3D channel?
Wait, does someone actually do all this work in front of the box? I thought it was normal to prepare the outlet before, and just connect and screw it in place.
Vertical of course
Toilet paper over NOT UNDER
As Wago stock mysteriously rises.
I never ever use electrical tape as anything other than a temporary solution. The stuff goes sticky, horrible and comes off in the long term. If you feel the need to protect against the Wago levers coming up then use some heatshrink and a cordless heatgun.
Ivory white. Easy on the eyes.
$1.96 each Wago three port... so additional $6 to install a 2$ receptacle
Wago rubberband lever sleeve in 3… 2… 1…
Hieizontal, and thisb is a neat hack.
Why use Wago’s when the plug includes Wago’s? This increases cost for no reason, increases risk of a short, and takes longer to install.
I heard that the neutral hole should be at the top - if the plug is not completely pushed in and something metal falls - it won't hit the hot!
Yes. Many commercial jobs require this. Military spec too.
Either way passes code.
Great, now my OCD is going to make me check all of my plate screw head directions… lol
@LRN2DIY Suggestion, when you copy & paste your description (I've done it too), you might want to change your chapter titles.
Great catch! Totally missed that and it is now fixed. Thanks so much!
@@LRN2DIY Glad to help
Team vertical of course 👍🏼
Cool video as most of yours are, HOWEVER, I'm going to fuss at you. In your video you connected the HOT, then the NEUTRAL and lastly the GRD. Having been in the industry for over 30yrs, I always disconnect the HOT 1st, Neutral 2nd and GRD last. I connect them in the reverse order. Just my two cents worth.
Yeah I believe that is the way it is supposed to be done. But does it really matter if the power is off?
Get a life. If you were working live ( hot for you guys I guess) then yes maybe but if you have proved dead its whatever makes you happy
Don't use electrical tape with connectors. If you ever have to remove the tape, the connector will be sticky from the tape's glue. It's a nightmare to work with. If you really really need to wrap it, use heat shrink wrapping. Don't superheat it, just enough that it becomes snug. Then it works like a sleeve you can pull off and back for years to come without any residues.
Top secret, don't tell, we Europeans have been doing it like this for years.
We have plug-in terminals for rigid cables. With all approvals for European countries.
Simple, quick and good contact.
WAGO has now gone the route of applying for UL approval for the lever clamps. These can clamp rigid and flexible cables.
Come to Europe and let someone show you how its done properly.